To flush the fluid, drain and over fill the auto a bit, undo the return line from the fluid cooler, put a clear hose on that to a bottle, idle the car in R D and N a bit, stop every now and then to top up the fluid in the trans, then repeat until fresh red fluid comes out of the return line, reconnect the return line .. this will change every drop of fluid. Then use the second "full level" drain plug when warm/at idle to determine the correct fluid level ( you need to over fill it and drain it to the level on that second "drain" bolt) dont let the trans run too low on fluid
@@kevwills858not really mate. You’ll see it’s listed as a quick easy fluid change. Not a service. Based on the colour of my oil I’m glad I did this now and then I’ll do a proper service on the trans next time. Removing the pan and the filter maybe outside the skill set or confidence level of your average Joe.
Hi mate, I've been watching your videos and love them, very helpful. Anyway, i do really need your help. I own a swb v26wg 1996 4m40 2.8td. 4 speed automatic. My alternator recently got fried. So i replaced the alternator with a new one. Now the problem is that the car won't go into any gears. I changed the fluid, and still no luck. Another thing that i noticed was that when i removed the hose from the transmission to the cooler, there wasn't an oil flow and was not warm at all. I dont want to change the transmission yet because its abit costly. If you have any ideas on the situation, your assistance will be really helpful. Cheers
@@batablack when you said you removed the hose was the engine running? If the trans has plenty of oil and nothing came out the hose with the engine running then the oil pump in the transmission has failed. It’s not so common on these boxes but if that’s the case you’ll need a full rebuild or a second hand trans if you can find a good one
@PERTHSCOOTER07 Hi, thanks for the info. We'll as you said it. The transmission fluid was quite over the limit when I removed the hose, and yes, the engine was running. I'll try to replenish the fluid to the correct level and see if it works and get back to you. Also I need another favour. After I bought the car, I had some wires that were stripped/cut off. If you could help me, I need to know which wires go to the oil pressure switch and the coolant temperature sensor . Thanks once again for your help
@@batablack you might have to google a wiring diagram. I never did much with the wiring of my 4M40. Also mine was manual. I know on the petrol the oil pressure wire is yellow
Hi mate, i am looking at getting a new exhaust for my NS VRX, i see you are not running a catalytic converter, are you getting any strong diesel fumes without it
No mate. Only difference is it’s marginally louder when driving under normal conditions (hardly noticeable), and a fair bit louder under full throttle. No fumes or smoke. If you remove the dpf from your NS you’ll need a tune
@PERTHSCOOTER07 my DPF was removed and a resistor mod was done to trick the ecu. I might have to get a tune I think. Just one more question, I have 2 sensors that screw into my cat, how did you go by removing yours ?
@@radioaustralia5070 I had the resistors in my old NS. Worked ok for a bit but then would eventually put the dpf light on. No issue for me as I have a scan tool. As for the sensors I’ve not even looked. I didn’t fit the exhaust. The NS cat is in a different spot from the rest. My NX had it right after the turbo
Hi. I’m not sure. You can buy aftermarket from most parts suppliers. Or you can buy genuine from Mitsubishi or somewhere like Partsouq using vin number for reference
@@antonioparisi9090 this is a simple oil change. Not a trans service. I was hoping the oil would be cleaner at this kms. I’ll do the oil and filter further down the track.
To flush the fluid, drain and over fill the auto a bit, undo the return line from the fluid cooler, put a clear hose on that to a bottle, idle the car in R D and N a bit, stop every now and then to top up the fluid in the trans, then repeat until fresh red fluid comes out of the return line, reconnect the return line .. this will change every drop of fluid. Then use the second "full level" drain plug when warm/at idle to determine the correct fluid level ( you need to over fill it and drain it to the level on that second "drain" bolt) dont let the trans run too low on fluid
Good advice there. Cheers
Do you need to clean the filter and magnets to do a proper job?
@@jessejamesbaumbach
Yep ..
This video is a waste of time ..
@@kevwills858not really mate. You’ll see it’s listed as a quick easy fluid change. Not a service. Based on the colour of my oil I’m glad I did this now and then I’ll do a proper service on the trans next time. Removing the pan and the filter maybe outside the skill set or confidence level of your average Joe.
Hi mate, I've been watching your videos and love them, very helpful. Anyway, i do really need your help. I own a swb v26wg 1996 4m40 2.8td. 4 speed automatic. My alternator recently got fried. So i replaced the alternator with a new one. Now the problem is that the car won't go into any gears. I changed the fluid, and still no luck. Another thing that i noticed was that when i removed the hose from the transmission to the cooler, there wasn't an oil flow and was not warm at all. I dont want to change the transmission yet because its abit costly. If you have any ideas on the situation, your assistance will be really helpful.
Cheers
@@batablack when you said you removed the hose was the engine running? If the trans has plenty of oil and nothing came out the hose with the engine running then the oil pump in the transmission has failed. It’s not so common on these boxes but if that’s the case you’ll need a full rebuild or a second hand trans if you can find a good one
@PERTHSCOOTER07 Hi, thanks for the info. We'll as you said it. The transmission fluid was quite over the limit when I removed the hose, and yes, the engine was running. I'll try to replenish the fluid to the correct level and see if it works and get back to you.
Also I need another favour. After I bought the car,
I had some wires that were stripped/cut off. If you could help me, I need to know which wires go to the oil pressure switch and the coolant temperature sensor .
Thanks once again for your help
@@batablack you might have to google a wiring diagram. I never did much with the wiring of my 4M40. Also mine was manual. I know on the petrol the oil pressure wire is yellow
Hi mate, i am looking at getting a new exhaust for my NS VRX, i see you are not running a catalytic converter, are you getting any strong diesel fumes without it
No mate. Only difference is it’s marginally louder when driving under normal conditions (hardly noticeable), and a fair bit louder under full throttle. No fumes or smoke. If you remove the dpf from your NS you’ll need a tune
@PERTHSCOOTER07 my DPF was removed and a resistor mod was done to trick the ecu. I might have to get a tune I think. Just one more question, I have 2 sensors that screw into my cat, how did you go by removing yours ?
@@radioaustralia5070 I had the resistors in my old NS. Worked ok for a bit but then would eventually put the dpf light on. No issue for me as I have a scan tool. As for the sensors I’ve not even looked. I didn’t fit the exhaust. The NS cat is in a different spot from the rest. My NX had it right after the turbo
Your video states transfer case oil flush except your changing the gearbox oil?!
No, it says 'Trans' .. short for Transmission ...
Hello sir may i ask the part number of transmission filter thanks
Hi. I’m not sure. You can buy aftermarket from most parts suppliers. Or you can buy genuine from Mitsubishi or somewhere like Partsouq using vin number for reference
Really?? What about the filter?
@@antonioparisi9090 this is a simple oil change. Not a trans service. I was hoping the oil would be cleaner at this kms. I’ll do the oil and filter further down the track.