Timber frame walls part 2
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Here is the kit I use:
Bosch Professional Combi Drill and Impact Driver with Two 18V 4.0 Ah Batteries amzn.to/2owE0mK
Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Circular Saw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
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Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Multi-Cutter with 2 x 18 V 5 Ah Batteries and 16 Accessories
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Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Jigsaw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
amzn.to/2IDgTxA
Bosch Professional GAS 35 M AFC Wet/Dry Extractor
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Bosch Professional GMF 1600 CE Corded 240V Multi-Function Router
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Occidental Leather 5089 LG Seven Bag Framer Tool Belt
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Occidental Leather 5355 Stronghold Comfort Package
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Hikoki Nail Gun
rover.ebay.com...
Bosch Table Saw & leg stand
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Damp Proof Membrane
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18mm Chipboard Flooring
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One of the best UK build vlogs so far...
Rule number one- always publicly praise your helpers then their future help will be guaranteed! 😁Great explanation again of your build. I would personally build-in your front flitch beam for security, and wrap the end in dpm where it sits inside the wall too. Belt and braces approach👍
Mate you've been watching my videos before they're published...that's exactly what's coming up in a future video!
Another professional vedio great editing and workmanship, you also have a lovely voice for documentaries. Your channel has the potential to have 100 thousand plus subscribers and views.
Cheers mate, you're very kind!
Do you think it would be a bit weird to walk down the path and have to open it into the way you’ve just come from? If the wind catches the door could it be a bit of a hazard also if someone is walking down the path to the side door? I’m not a tradesperson so this is purely out of interest.
It's a fair point mate, but there's not a vast amount we can do about it really - either way it opens out into the alley way and is a side door we will use infrequently. Whether it opens left or right we'd have an issue of it blocking the path a bit...I think we'll get used to it in time. As I say, it comes out of the Utility room and is there as an infrequent side access if it's really muddy and we don't want to track mud through the kitchen.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Was there an issue with hanging it to open inwards?
top work the good thing when you work with timber is easy to fixe any mistakes is nice to see a members of the family involve bless.
What's the make/model of laser level you use? Looking to buy one myself and yours looks like a good piece of kit.
I've got a Bosch Lazer...honestly can't remember the model number though!
We had a timber fram extension built about ten years ago. I couldn't find anyone locally to do it. I live in the southwest, and had to get a timber frame company from Shropshire. Timber frame is quicker and usually cheaper. If I was younger I would have tackled it myself. Well done great job.
Thanks mate, it's still a bit of a rarity sadly...hopefully it will become more mainstream as time goes on, but with the price of timber now, who's to say!
What did you use to fasten sole plate to the concrete blocks.
Great teamwork , incidentally could you build a first floor on top at a later stage?
Not quite...if you were to lift off the roof, the walls would be perfectly strong enough to hold another floor above them, however the beam and pier foundations are only designed for a single storey, not double storey...Given the size of the place once it's completed, and the way UK planning works, I doubt there would ever be a requirement for a second storey on the back. It'd be better value to just buy a bigger house I think.
Why did you build timber frame instead of brick and block?
Just playing to my strengths (and passion). I don't know anything about brick and blockwork, as you'll see in a previous video lol! I understand timber and really enjoy working with it. Incidentally it's also far more thermally efficient than blockwork, and it builds a bit faster too.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder great stuff mate! I’m enjoying the Vlogs. Do you think timber is a cheaper or more expensive way to build?
It's cheaper...not because the materials are dramatically less expensive, but because of the speed of building. It took me and one labourer 35 days to get the entire external shell built, once I was out the ground, and that includes insulation and the roof. All the timber for this build has cost me around £9k
Warmer, nicer materials to work with and quicker, 👍🔨🇮🇪
how do you know all this stuff about building timber frame building office boy? great clip by the way . Stay safe Andy
Thanks 👍 Honestly, hours and hours of research...! I did spend some time working with a building company to do my loft conversion and one other loft too, and then applied those principles to this build. Also the architect/structural engineer I worked with on this project provided incredibly detailed cross sections of what they wanted and how they wanted it built, to comply with building regs. That helped too, and I spent around 15 hours studying them and getting completely familiar with them to make the build process quicker.
Great series of videos. Enjoying everyone. Starting my own timber build soon so very helpful. Question for you. What are the dimensions of the steel in the headers above the door? Thanks in advance.
Cheers for the support mate! It's a flitch beam above the sliding door; they are two 8x3 inch timbers on either side of a 10mm thick plate of steel (that is also 8" wide).
Good work and great videos, your narration is very natural. Thanks for taking the time to film and post.
Cheers mate, very kind!
It's a good thing you had the good helpers 😄
Hi mate prob missed it somewhere my basically I’m after building similar I want to have a conservatory off the back of my house but the side wall up against nabours out of timer frame and insulated panels with the other 2 walls glass what planning did u have to go through to get this
Conservatories do need planning and building regs specifications. You're best off checking on the government's planning portal site which is actually pretty helpful.
Also, contact iplans.com to speak with them about building regs and drawings etc. Let them know I recommended you, they'll take care of you well.
How come you chose to have a timber frame extension rather than a traditional brick and block extension ? Just curious as a bricklayer myself who mainly does extensions and new build. But great work keep it up 👍
Just playing to my strengths (and passion). I don't know anything about brick and blockwork, as you'll see in a previous video lol! I understand timber and really enjoy working with it. Incidentally it's also far more thermally efficient than blockwork, and it builds a bit faster too.
I think it's cheaper, not least because of the amount of time it takes and the number of people needed to build in brick. With timber you build it once and in fill with insulation, and the walls go up in minutes. With brick you need to build each wall twice and infill with insulation as you go, and it's typically a thinner amount of mineral wool insulation which is less efficient than rigid PIR. The raw materials cost around the same, but timber is possibly marginally cheaper if you get trade rates.
Probably different code to where we are but at 3:40 the two top plate but joins are quite close together. We're in an earthquake zone so that's probably the difference! Thanks for allowing us to peek over your shoulder, good work!
That's interesting to know! I didn't actually get given a specification of overlap for the head plates, just thought it was a sensible thing to do 🤣 so perhaps it should be more of a lap, I just figured that at the corners I couldn't lap more than the width of the wood.
We don't get earthquakes here, certainly not the type you can feel.
Thanks for the support!
Hey, Im new to all of this and have been watching your amazing, invaluable videos. Thanks for making the time to do this. Are the wall and floor timbers "C24" ? Thank you.
Thanks mate, glad you're enjoying them and they're helpful.
Yes, everything structural in the build is C24, walls, floors, roofing etc. 💪
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Most welcome and thank you very much, for taking the time to reply! Ive learnt so much from your videos, much appreciated.
Awesome! Are you doing a self-build or extension? Or just learning/watching for the future?
Good video again. Good to see the door on but I think the cats going to to have bother reaching the cat flap from the outside😁 at the minute and it's going to get a bigger shock if it tries going out through it. 😂
Lol yeah, they reached up and sniffed at it, before walking through the wall next to it 🤣🤣🙈
Who spec’d 8x2 ?
The same person that specifies everything that needs to be done - the structural engineer. We just follow the instructions we are given, and the building inspector is happy. They may occasionally add something, but often it will be minor. If there is a major discrepancy, they hash it out between them.
Brilliant . Best thing on YT 👍
Why noggins in the wall on side is it over 10 feet high.
It was a structural element specified by the engineer. The edges of the OSB get supported by the row of noggins in the middle and give it a ton of racking strength.
You need to add a waterproof membrane to cill & jamb of timber openings before fitting door & windows.
Yup, I wrap the entire house in membrane, and ensured I lapped it round the windows and doo openings 👍
@@OfficeBoyBuilder but you still need a window wrap on top of the house wrap on the cill and jamb. This type of construction is more common in USA & NZ and that’s what they do. Stops water getting in behind the frame & rotting the timber ruclips.net/video/ZqP1bOED5is/видео.html
@@stewartos83 Indeed, self adhesive flashing tape is the balls, 👍😁🔨🇮🇪
Another excellent video mate. Out of interest how much space did you have on the side of your house? And does the ‘alleyway’ have to be a specific width? Thanks in advance 👍
We have around 850mm between the house and the fence.
We haven't actually got a regulations about that distance in our borough but I know there are other boroughs who stipulate a minimum distance. Bromley borough for instance requires at least 1000mm down the side alley of each house.
Thanks for the reply. What about the distance from the existing house to the fence line???
Sorry mate, not sure what you mean...?
I’m trying to find out how much space you had from the side of your house (brick wall) to the fence of your neighbours. So how much you have extended out to the side which includes your garage? Or an easier way to ask would be ‘how wide will your garage be once it’s finished?
Ahhh gotcha...we extended 2.8m to the side, and left 80cm gap in the alleyway. There's just over 2.5m space inside the rooms on the new side extension.