Inside Timber Frame Walls
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Here is the kit I use:
Bosch Professional Combi Drill and Impact Driver with Two 18V 4.0 Ah Batteries amzn.to/2owE0mK
Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Circular Saw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
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Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Multi-Cutter with 2 x 18 V 5 Ah Batteries and 16 Accessories
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Bosch Professional 18V Cordless Jigsaw with 2 x 18 V 5.0 Ah Batteries
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Bosch Professional GAS 35 M AFC Wet/Dry Extractor
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Bosch Professional GMF 1600 CE Corded 240V Multi-Function Router
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Occidental Leather 5089 LG Seven Bag Framer Tool Belt
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Occidental Leather 5355 Stronghold Comfort Package
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Hikoki Nail Gun
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Bosch Table Saw & leg stand
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Damp Proof Membrane
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18mm Chipboard Flooring
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Very informative. You have some of the best series of illustrative videos on here. Thanks for sharing and for giving the links to the tools you've used.
FYI, a vapour barrier should be continuous, I.e across the window header. 👍
I do not agree with a vapour barrier . It traps moisture and will cause issues later down the line if you have water ingress. if i could get away without fitting one I would , however that is not the case .
@@kieranswann3834 that's my thoughts and wouldn't any moisture rot the wood behind it?
Its good to see a vape barrier being used, its missed out so many times, can I ask if LMB fitted that in the loft project
It wasn't specified in the loft project because the SE stipulated using continuous sheets over PIR over the top of the 4x2's (and then taping the joints with foil tape). I'm not entirely sure why the difference in specifications, but it's the same SE that did both projects (at the same time, with full knowledge of what was being on both floors). Also, I've never seen a vapour barrier being used in a loft conversion so I'm not sure how common it is generally, but it does make a lot of sense on timber frame.
When nailing osb you should nail from middle outwards to the edges incase the sheets are bowed , by nailing this way it flattens the sheets better
Nice job mate, looking sweet now
AbFab mate. Your New Camera (13.12.2023). Will be a great investment. Your Channel should thrive as it's Brilliant 😊😊🤩
What are you going to use to overcome Thermal Bridgeing?
I asked my SE about this, he said that thermal bridging across timber is pretty limited, especially a 6" timber, which is then 1" counter battened on both sides (providing two air-gaps that are helpful for reducing cold bridging). The chances of cold bridging through silicone render, 8" of timber, 1" of OSB and plaster and skim is pretty unlikely.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder good point. However there will still be a variation across the internal surface which will differ over the studs. Ofter they require a further layer of pir insulation boarding across the entire internal wall area which when taped correctly
will also act as a vapour shield.
True enough, and that's exactly was specified for my loft conversion (same SE), hence me asking about it for the extension too...he said he wasn't required because of the additional PIR and air gaps etc. Good spot though!
I think it’s always good practice to minimise cold bridging, especially if the studs are 400mm centres. I used 50mm insulated plasterboard on my timber extension which makes it very cosy!!
We call those stick built here. Timber frame usually refers to heavy timbers here. Weird seeing vapor barrier on inside. Usually we put it on outside of wall here to make water proof shell. We use thermal breaks around windows/doors and spray foam in window and door stud bays and ones next to them. Lower r value windows and doors can create condensation zones. But I am in harsher climate too. We call the sticks with bubbles plum sticks. Pull lay out from same direction so sheating lines up. We do warm roofs usually. With more building codes I like seeing how other countries implement them. Great job.
Nice looking job you are doing👍❤
Nice. have you already run the cabling for the sockets or is that to come
That comes after - the benefit of the counter batten is that it provides a great service void to run the cabling in 👍
Great progress and looking good! Get that top glazing in and it'll be good and toasty! I like the idea of counter battening to serve as a service void and if you are sure where all the heavy kitchen wall cupboards etc are going it's also a good opportunity to run some horizontal battens for fixing to and bracing behind. Good luck with the rest!👍
Hi mate usually foil tape is applied between studs and insulation to seal as per building regs in UK?
Also vapour barrier should be taped at all joints
Hi, l must admit l like placing some form of backing board as you did, not only does it assure good fixing arrangements for all the kitchen fitments etc but also gives additional support to the plaster board. Keep up the good work and stay safe.
I was just going to ask about this. We're thinking of doing our own double side extension (these videos are great, thank you!) and wondered if the back boarding behind plasterboard was only used in a kitchen setting or if it's general good practice for any type of wood framed extension. Would ply be better for a kitchen extension or is OSB sufficient?
I built a garden room in 2020, but didn't back board under the plasterboard and now regret it a bit as we want to hang stuff on the walls and it's limited to the stud locations - doh! Karen
Thanks for the support! So OSB is classed as a structural material, and when it's nailed to timber studs, it stops any racking that might happen to the frame (hence needing it on both sides of the timber studs). It is absolutely necessary for the structural integrity, but also happens to provide additional backing strength within kitchens/walls where you want to hang stuff. Ply is super strong, and would also be great, but it's dramatically more expensive than OSB, and the extra cost isn't justified by the extra strength it provides.
Thanks! I am still working on my garden room vids, but would love for you to hop over and take a look once they're posted and give any constructive feedback. After tackling that project it does give me hope we can do a wood framed extension ourselves to the side of the house. You make it look easy! haha A contrast of barn style horizontal cladding to the 1930's red brick in our rural setting would work well I think. Still need to persuade my husband on this one though! haha
I'd be delighted to! I'll take a look and subscribe. Let's keep talking - email me and we can swap contact details on there.
Hello fella, hope all is well, and your almsst there. I was watching all videos last year as you were posting them and you inspired me to buy a bungalow to do exactly what you have done. Have you had everything signed off by BC now ? ive followed you on your office builder instagram and would appreciate any help if i need it in the future :)
Cheers mate, congratulations on taking the plunge - all the best with it!
We haven't fully finished yet, but are getting closer each day. Still a few bits to sort out, but they are chunky expenses now like bathrooms and bedrooms etc.
Always happy to help where I can. I'm not that great at Instagram to be honest, but I'll try to use it more!
'Big yellow stick with a bubble in it' destroyed me for some reason 🤣🤣🤣 thanks for helping me out with my technical section in my own architecture project! 😁
Haha. Here to serve!
Why the osb board and not plasterboard and you don't need nogging in outside wall unless its over 10 feet high.
Plasterboard doesn't provide the structural strength required of OSB to comply with building control specifications. The OSB stops the walls from racking side to side.
Sunday evenings wouldn’t be the same without OBB. Hope your getting along well in real-time.
Slowly but surely mate, thanks for the support! We're starting to close up doorways and plasterboard in an effort to reduce drafts during this perpetual wind 🤣
No sound proofing
Nice video, tell me, how will you finish the osb wall ? With drywall? Thx
Yes, that's exactly what's happening now - plasterers are in skimming the drywall as I type!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks a lot
Looks great, I assume the OSB didn't fit as it's imperial but you are using 400 centres for the studwork? First sheet fits as it's only 20mm out and stud is wide enough. Second sheet however leaves nothing for next sheet to sit on. Made that mistake before... Now I precut all my osb down by 20 and 40mm on width and length respectively. Alternatively you work to 16" centres and the OSB fits but your plasterboard doesn't...
Yeah that's exactly right! I don't understand why it doesn't all come to work with 400centres, it's a bit of a nightmare to be honest! Lol
In this instance the stud work should have been 16" o/c and then the counter battens at 400mm o/c to suit the metric slabs.
Is it possible to get metric OSB? I wouldn't really mind either way, but cutting down each board was a real pain! Lol
You may know OBB. Would the vapour barrier still be used if it had been rockwool slabs, or would be have been a breathable membrane, like a roofing type membrane. Just asking for a future project I have in mind. Thank you
Rockwool isn't up to specification for external walls even with a vapour barrier (that was a major mistake I made in my loft project that needed to be amended for PIR!) You'd need to use foil faced PIR, and then a vapour check barrier over the top 👍