Looking good. I noticed the decking screws are coated steel not stainless steel in case you didn’t spot that. Stainless won’t rust but the ones you have are rust resistant. Meaning they should last a long time. Just not indefinitely.
I must admit we put code 3 soakers then flash with code 4 on plains or pegs. We only normally do flash and cover on interlocking tiles. Looks nice and neat though. Are you going to get some windows pans made up?
could i use this method on a brick build that has no cavity. i like the idea of battening the outside and then putting the carrier board on top so its not sandwiched
I’ve got a rendering job coming up for a shop front the OSB sheeting has been done already so I’ll just need to membrane and batten. If the battens run vertical do you not need any horizontal battens?
It depends what has been specified by the structural engineer, but I would say you'd be fine, and not need any horizontals. Just render board on the vertical battens
Yeah he's definitely a rarity. He's been doing it for over 50 years!! There literally isn't a type of roof, or make of tile that he hasn't worked with.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder I have huge admiration and respect for tradesman of that vintage. They have been creating magic with their hands for decades. We have to try to live up to them and carry on creating.
The bloke's 65 years old, he started climbing up the first ladder and got part way before saying "sod this" and scaled the outside of the scaffold and jumped over to the top lift 🤣🤯 living legend
Build looks great! Curious but where the render board is flush with the block work and you rendered straight over and down to the block work. Does rain water not get trapped between that bridge then pool into the DPC? How have you dealt with the ventilation of this?
@@OfficeBoyBuilder ah interesting. Is it like a vented bell cast? How did to deal with stepping it out again as you mentioned in the video it was already flush with the block wall?
We didn't specifically allow for ventilation in the end, there was a surprising amount of air coming up through the slight gap that was there, so we weren't too worried about it to be honest 🤷
Hi mate. Great content as always. I’m just in the planning stages of an extension and would love to hear your thoughts on timber frame and using render carrier boards. I can see the benefits with the speed of build and u-values. I spoke to a builder yesterday and he advised if you go for a timber frame with a render carrier board the render manufacturers (Knauff, Weber, K-rend etc) specify using their own boards to maintain a warranty on the render itself. Their own boards are very pricey £40-60 for a 2400mm by 1200mm sheet (or smaller for Knauff). The other option is to go blockwork on the outside skin and timber frame on the inside or a cavity wall out of blocks. The same builder advised that once you’ve got the full kit from Knauff for example (board, render, expanding joints) it works out very similar on price to blockwork and blockwork can be thrown up relatively quickly anyway. We’re happy with a rendered finish as we will be moving windows etc in the existing dwelling. Would love to hear your thoughts and how you found navigating the render and carrier boards situation? Thanks, Michael
Hey mate, great to hear you're extending and looking into options for how to go about it! I have heard people saying that too, but I honestly think it's nonsense. I think there is the chance you would receive an Extra warranty for using their boards, but how on earth could you lose your warranty for not using them? By the same token; do they specify which type of blocks need to be used in order to qualify for the warranty when rendering on blockwork? No! I used an insulated cement particle board which worked fine, and the renderer I'm speaking with was very happy to work on it, and said that the various brands of monocouche render would adhere easily.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks for the quick reply and as you say it did sound a little far-fetched. Now you’ve got the building up how are you finding the sound levels in your new dwelling compared to your existing? Also a few more what I hope are myths but still worth asking. Does this type of build increase your house insurance premium? Does it effect your property value (as in compared if it were to be blockwork)? For 2 storey or more can expansion and contraction cause cracking of the render? Cost wise would it be fair to say it’s very similar? More for materials but less for labour? I don’t mean to be annoying wIth all the questions. I just don’t know anyone else who has built a timber framed extension and it seems most builders don’t know huge amounts about them! Thanks, Michael
I'm still a little early to give much of an indication on the insurance cost and valuation (as well as this idea I heard that it's harder to get a mortgage?!), Although we remortgage in July, so 🤞. Honestly I think it's all nonsense too; there are huge housing developments being done by the large home builders that are all timber frame, so I can't imagine that it works that negatively for insurance and valuations. As to your question of sound, I still don't fully know for the side bedroom as we haven't built that staircase or used that side room...The back is really good for sound proofing though - we notice a lot more noise when we open the sliding doors. The whole justification for silicone render is that it's flexible, to allow the structure to breathe with seasonal movement, so I'd hope that it doesn't crack! Cost wise, I think that getting it built for you in timber should still be cheaper than brick, not least because it's quicker, but I do believe the materials cost less too. So far this whole project has cost us around £80-90K, and I had quotes from other companies for £180k+ to do the work...!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks again for getting back to me on this! You’ve given me more to think about and think I am swaying towards timber frame. Did you consider outsourcing panel making and getting it delivered flat pack? I’m waiting on a couple of quotes for this at the minute so still unsure which route to go. If you’d be interested, I can share our arcitect plans with you. Michael
Yeah I'd love to take a look! Send them to my email (in the bio/about page I think!). I did look into it, but couldn't get any real clarity on price/possiblity for just my own home where it wasn't neat/easy to merge old with new...I also really wanted the challenge and joy of building it myself
Great question, and sadly the answer is "probably not". Because of the way planning works, we used our permitted development rights to get the biggest possible loft we could (just under 50m2) without needing planning permission, where they then start trying to calculate the area of your roof and work out whether you're growing your building too much. if we had done the side first, we would potentially have had to scale back side or rear extensions because of how much roof space we were adding. Or at least that's what our planning consultant advised us...
It was literally just called Tyvek Housewrap...I'm not sure if there was a specific sub-type, but it's incredibly strong and very water repellent. Absolutely amazing stuff!
I don’t think you can be a million miles from me, I saw the Brown’s lorries in an earlier video and they’re on my doorstep here in Crawley. Build is looking excellent, top job 👍🏽
Hi, not relating to this video but need some advice... got cold roof dormer with the required insulation spacing and holes in the ridge and soffit to vent moist air. Noticed mould and condensation. What can it be and how to resolve? Note that the dormer is not yet boarded and the house at present have no heating... Thanks
Hmm that's really hard to diagnose because what you've said should work to vent the air...! Two bits of advice, take lots of pictures and maybe even videos, and also check out Steve the roofer on RUclips, he does diagnostic videos and talks through troubleshooting and potential causes of problems. Very good help!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Yeah building control varies like crazy on who you see or area you're in. One person wants a fire board and another is wanting tissue paper 😂
You can cut it with a scalpel, same as plasterboard, except that it destroys the blades faster than butter left out in the sun. The quickest and easiest way is with a mini 4" angle grinder and a diamond blade. The issue there is the noise and dust, and if you've only got one and there are loads of people cutting it, a scalpel may end up being quicker after all!
I did a lot of the work, so that saved a good chunk of chance. All in our cost will be around £40K but for the spec, size and finish we've gone for it would have cost £55-60K if I hadn't done a lot of the work myself.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder WOW i just been quoted 62k on my loft/dormer after watching your vids over and over ive decided to do some of the work my self god bless you
Best of luck with it mate, nice to know I was pretty accurate with the estimate, hey! Some building firms will be fine with that, others won't, but I was lucky and found one happy to work with me
How are you getting on with building insurance. We have a timber frame extension, and insurers cant grasp that the extension is new build, and they assume that it is the same age as our bungalow 1958. Insurers wont insure timber frame built before 1970. So we have to explain every year that the extension was built in 2013
Honestly not had a problem with it... although I don't major on the fact that it's timber frame, because the rest of the house is brick built. I appreciate it can be tricky because they don't understand the building regulations most of the time.
Looking very sharp- you've got some cracking roofers there too. Are you fitting your windows the RUclips's 'Scott Brown' way? Hopefully your new bifold doors don't leak now either?!🤞🤞Look forward to the pitched roof framing as I'm now about to start mine if it defrosts enough!
Cheers mate. Steve and Jack are about as good as it gets in my opinion; Neither of them have ever done anything else in their entire lives, than sat on roofs and made them work. Fair pricing, hard work, and excellent results. I haven't caught up with Scott Brown recently so I'll check in and see what his method is for fitting windows. To be honest though, the guys I work with gave me a great deal for supply and fit, so I could focus on other bits while they dealt with that...and yes thanks, the sliding doors are dry as a bone! All the best with your project, let me know how you get on with it all, happy to give advice where I can on things I've learned.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Cheers, I will do. I noticed in your birthday video when you showed the completed shell that you had fitted four electric velux windows so looking forward to seeing those go in. One question though, were you able to let the roof tile courses dictate window position, ie best placement to minimise tile cuts, or did you have to stick to rafter plan? Thanks!
You'll see that coming up in the next few videos, but I didn't pay any consideration to tile cuts when I positioned the windows. Whilst that may be helpful to the roofer (or whoever is installing the tiles) it's a bit like that tail wagging the dog. I wanted the windows in rather specific places, and spent bloody ages working out their exact positioning in relation to the room, and to one another. If I'd had to consider tile cutting too I don't think I'd have managed! 🤣🤯
Looking good. I noticed the decking screws are coated steel not stainless steel in case you didn’t spot that. Stainless won’t rust but the ones you have are rust resistant. Meaning they should last a long time. Just not indefinitely.
That's really helpful for others! I'll pin this comment at the top. I assumed that meant they were double protected, not semi-protected! 🙈
Yep, if they were stainless they wouldn’t need the coating. Can always test with a magnet if unsure.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Stainless are shiny non coated, not cheap but they last forever, 👍🔨🇮🇪
Looking good 👍 makes such a difference to be watertight, when I wrap I usually do the doors and windows as well just to keep the elements out!
That's a great idea, although we were constantly taking bits in and out through there which meant we needed the access.
Did they put a soaker under the lead flashing?
Yes mate, all of them were hand cut from a roll of lead, and put in place before the flashing went down over the top.
I love hard work.
I can watch people working hard all day long 😂.
Great video, thank you and good luck.
I must admit we put code 3 soakers then flash with code 4 on plains or pegs. We only normally do flash and cover on interlocking tiles. Looks nice and neat though. Are you going to get some windows pans made up?
could i use this method on a brick build that has no cavity. i like the idea of battening the outside and then putting the carrier board on top so its not sandwiched
Yes you absolutely can, that's very common.
I’ve got a rendering job coming up for a shop front the OSB sheeting has been done already so I’ll just need to membrane and batten. If the battens run vertical do you not need any horizontal battens?
It depends what has been specified by the structural engineer, but I would say you'd be fine, and not need any horizontals. Just render board on the vertical battens
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Cheers mate 👍
Looking sweet it bigger than i thought it was nice job though i must say
Wow those roofers are a dying breed , amazing work.... that is so old school roofing though haha not what we see here in Aus
Yeah he's definitely a rarity. He's been doing it for over 50 years!!
There literally isn't a type of roof, or make of tile that he hasn't worked with.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Looks like a man that smokes woodbines and drinks bottles of Guinness off the shelf, a serious tradesman, 👍😁🔨🇮🇪
He bloody loves a Guinness that man! Like you said, he's proper!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder I have huge admiration and respect for tradesman of that vintage. They have been creating magic with their hands for decades. We have to try to live up to them and carry on creating.
The bloke's 65 years old, he started climbing up the first ladder and got part way before saying "sod this" and scaled the outside of the scaffold and jumped over to the top lift 🤣🤯 living legend
Good job mate 👍👍
Good idear with the drip edge
Build looks great! Curious but where the render board is flush with the block work and you rendered straight over and down to the block work. Does rain water not get trapped between that bridge then pool into the DPC? How have you dealt with the ventilation of this?
We ended up putting a bell-cast on the bottom to stop exactly this problem!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder ah interesting. Is it like a vented bell cast? How did to deal with stepping it out again as you mentioned in the video it was already flush with the block wall?
We didn't specifically allow for ventilation in the end, there was a surprising amount of air coming up through the slight gap that was there, so we weren't too worried about it to be honest 🤷
Lovely jubley
Hi mate. Great content as always. I’m just in the planning stages of an extension and would love to hear your thoughts on timber frame and using render carrier boards.
I can see the benefits with the speed of build and u-values.
I spoke to a builder yesterday and he advised if you go for a timber frame with a render carrier board the render manufacturers (Knauff, Weber, K-rend etc) specify using their own boards to maintain a warranty on the render itself. Their own boards are very pricey £40-60 for a 2400mm by 1200mm sheet (or smaller for Knauff).
The other option is to go blockwork on the outside skin and timber frame on the inside or a cavity wall out of blocks.
The same builder advised that once you’ve got the full kit from Knauff for example (board, render, expanding joints) it works out very similar on price to blockwork and blockwork can be thrown up relatively quickly anyway.
We’re happy with a rendered finish as we will be moving windows etc in the existing dwelling.
Would love to hear your thoughts and how you found navigating the render and carrier boards situation?
Thanks,
Michael
Hey mate, great to hear you're extending and looking into options for how to go about it! I have heard people saying that too, but I honestly think it's nonsense. I think there is the chance you would receive an Extra warranty for using their boards, but how on earth could you lose your warranty for not using them?
By the same token; do they specify which type of blocks need to be used in order to qualify for the warranty when rendering on blockwork? No!
I used an insulated cement particle board which worked fine, and the renderer I'm speaking with was very happy to work on it, and said that the various brands of monocouche render would adhere easily.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks for the quick reply and as you say it did sound a little far-fetched.
Now you’ve got the building up how are you finding the sound levels in your new dwelling compared to your existing?
Also a few more what I hope are myths but still worth asking.
Does this type of build increase your house insurance premium?
Does it effect your property value (as in compared if it were to be blockwork)?
For 2 storey or more can expansion and contraction cause cracking of the render?
Cost wise would it be fair to say it’s very similar? More for materials but less for labour?
I don’t mean to be annoying wIth all the questions. I just don’t know anyone else who has built a timber framed extension and it seems most builders don’t know huge amounts about them!
Thanks,
Michael
I'm still a little early to give much of an indication on the insurance cost and valuation (as well as this idea I heard that it's harder to get a mortgage?!), Although we remortgage in July, so 🤞. Honestly I think it's all nonsense too; there are huge housing developments being done by the large home builders that are all timber frame, so I can't imagine that it works that negatively for insurance and valuations.
As to your question of sound, I still don't fully know for the side bedroom as we haven't built that staircase or used that side room...The back is really good for sound proofing though - we notice a lot more noise when we open the sliding doors.
The whole justification for silicone render is that it's flexible, to allow the structure to breathe with seasonal movement, so I'd hope that it doesn't crack!
Cost wise, I think that getting it built for you in timber should still be cheaper than brick, not least because it's quicker, but I do believe the materials cost less too. So far this whole project has cost us around £80-90K, and I had quotes from other companies for £180k+ to do the work...!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder thanks again for getting back to me on this!
You’ve given me more to think about and think I am swaying towards timber frame.
Did you consider outsourcing panel making and getting it delivered flat pack? I’m waiting on a couple of quotes for this at the minute so still unsure which route to go. If you’d be interested, I can share our arcitect plans with you. Michael
Yeah I'd love to take a look! Send them to my email (in the bio/about page I think!).
I did look into it, but couldn't get any real clarity on price/possiblity for just my own home where it wasn't neat/easy to merge old with new...I also really wanted the challenge and joy of building it myself
nice video, as usual lad, thanks
If you did the side extension first then the loft after. Could you have made the loft that extra bigger or would it not be possible?
Great question, and sadly the answer is "probably not". Because of the way planning works, we used our permitted development rights to get the biggest possible loft we could (just under 50m2) without needing planning permission, where they then start trying to calculate the area of your roof and work out whether you're growing your building too much. if we had done the side first, we would potentially have had to scale back side or rear extensions because of how much roof space we were adding. Or at least that's what our planning consultant advised us...
Is that tyvek firecurb? I brought a couple of rolls of that for mine......? Good progress...
It was literally just called Tyvek Housewrap...I'm not sure if there was a specific sub-type, but it's incredibly strong and very water repellent. Absolutely amazing stuff!
8.39 wrap the dormer felt on top of the roofing felt 👍
I left that to the roofers lol!
Maybe you’ve been watching too much of The Crazy Framer. Enjoy your beer ;)
I was hoping someone would get the reference, I don't even drink beer! 🤣
I don’t think you can be a million miles from me, I saw the Brown’s lorries in an earlier video and they’re on my doorstep here in Crawley. Build is looking excellent, top job 👍🏽
Just the other side of Croydon/Surrey mate...!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder in the mid 80's I was up Gypsy Hill in Croydon doing Pirate Radio.....LOL
I used to go there as a kid to learn to swim, in the old Olympic pool in crystal palace!
Hi, not relating to this video but need some advice... got cold roof dormer with the required insulation spacing and holes in the ridge and soffit to vent moist air. Noticed mould and condensation. What can it be and how to resolve? Note that the dormer is not yet boarded and the house at present have no heating... Thanks
Hmm that's really hard to diagnose because what you've said should work to vent the air...! Two bits of advice, take lots of pictures and maybe even videos, and also check out Steve the roofer on RUclips, he does diagnostic videos and talks through troubleshooting and potential causes of problems. Very good help!
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Thanks for the prompt reply. I'm baffled myself. Il refer to the videos and take it from there. Thanks
What render boards are these?
They're insulated ones that I bought from eBay. They're cement based, with polystyrene balls in them for insulation (and weight reduction).
Wickes screws ?? Jeez, the thought of even going to that place makes me feel ill.
Are you having to put a fire barrier on the boundary wall?
Yes, I have put fireline board (master board) on the closest neighbors side
Just realised you're using render board 👍
Yes, that also acts as a fire-proofing for at least 30 mins 👍
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Yeah building control varies like crazy on who you see or area you're in. One person wants a fire board and another is wanting tissue paper 😂
Was someone mixing on the wrapping.
We had a bit of wrapping spare for them to knock up their gear on.
How do you cut that render board?
You can cut it with a scalpel, same as plasterboard, except that it destroys the blades faster than butter left out in the sun. The quickest and easiest way is with a mini 4" angle grinder and a diamond blade. The issue there is the noise and dust, and if you've only got one and there are loads of people cutting it, a scalpel may end up being quicker after all!
What’s your company name mate where are you based?
How much did your loft/dormer cost
I did a lot of the work, so that saved a good chunk of chance. All in our cost will be around £40K but for the spec, size and finish we've gone for it would have cost £55-60K if I hadn't done a lot of the work myself.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder WOW i just been quoted 62k on my loft/dormer after watching your vids over and over ive decided to do some of the work my self
god bless you
Best of luck with it mate, nice to know I was pretty accurate with the estimate, hey!
Some building firms will be fine with that, others won't, but I was lucky and found one happy to work with me
How are you getting on with building insurance. We have a timber frame extension, and insurers cant grasp that the extension is new build, and they assume that it is the same age as our bungalow 1958. Insurers wont insure timber frame built before 1970. So we have to explain every year that the extension was built in 2013
Honestly not had a problem with it... although I don't major on the fact that it's timber frame, because the rest of the house is brick built. I appreciate it can be tricky because they don't understand the building regulations most of the time.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder probably the best idea. Maybe we should take that approach in future.
wrong size batten 3x1 for carrier board
Looking very sharp- you've got some cracking roofers there too. Are you fitting your windows the RUclips's 'Scott Brown' way? Hopefully your new bifold doors don't leak now either?!🤞🤞Look forward to the pitched roof framing as I'm now about to start mine if it defrosts enough!
Cheers mate. Steve and Jack are about as good as it gets in my opinion; Neither of them have ever done anything else in their entire lives, than sat on roofs and made them work. Fair pricing, hard work, and excellent results.
I haven't caught up with Scott Brown recently so I'll check in and see what his method is for fitting windows. To be honest though, the guys I work with gave me a great deal for supply and fit, so I could focus on other bits while they dealt with that...and yes thanks, the sliding doors are dry as a bone!
All the best with your project, let me know how you get on with it all, happy to give advice where I can on things I've learned.
@@OfficeBoyBuilder Cheers, I will do. I noticed in your birthday video when you showed the completed shell that you had fitted four electric velux windows so looking forward to seeing those go in. One question though, were you able to let the roof tile courses dictate window position, ie best placement to minimise tile cuts, or did you have to stick to rafter plan? Thanks!
You'll see that coming up in the next few videos, but I didn't pay any consideration to tile cuts when I positioned the windows. Whilst that may be helpful to the roofer (or whoever is installing the tiles) it's a bit like that tail wagging the dog.
I wanted the windows in rather specific places, and spent bloody ages working out their exact positioning in relation to the room, and to one another. If I'd had to consider tile cutting too I don't think I'd have managed! 🤣🤯