Hi, I just wanted to take a moment a thank you for this video. My Pastor and I adding a new addition to our Church and the addition is going to have two valleys in which neither of us have built before. This video and a few others really helped. Thank You.
@@MyDIYAdventures Yes but it might be a shed style roof. I also have a entry patio cover that I have to build. It will be a gable style roof that is 15 x10
I wish you would make a video leading up to that point. Can't find one anywhere showing how to attach beams to top plate. This was a good one for the second half of the job. Thanks for the details.
Insightful solutions.Perhaps you have a suggestion to this issue: old house we bought has room addition (3:12 roof) where its side of the valley eave is 1.5 inches lower than main roof (6:12) eave at the corner. Now I know why wasps always flying in and out of that valley corner. I saw the guts of the misalignment when I tore off roof and decking (about 15 sheets). Seems options might be: 1) sister each 2x6 rafter and raise 1.5 inches and add to facia board and rake to chimney (not good since entire perimeter eave would be affected). 2) cut a wedge and plug the opening - uneven valley still); or 3) take gutter and fascia off and shorten the offending eave a couple inches until corners are in the same plane. It's already open and covered with Tiger Paw during intermittent rains and seems might as well fix properly now than recover the old problem. Thoughts?
To me, the easiest would be to cut a wedge, or maybe bend up some aluminum to cover that spot. I’ve dealt with eaves not lining up quite often, and usually just filled that area with a creative piece of metal and some silicon. Cutting the overhang back would obviously work too.
When I started framing in 1971, it was paper and pencil. Today I use a Construction Pro Master calculator and a tape measure. I remember when you had to know the formula... a2xb2xc2
hey ya, i've been watching your video on valley trussing, and it's been very helpful to me. I had one question, which I may know the answer already, when to gp to measure and set the valley plates, and you showed measuring from the set rafters over, what measurement are you using on the rafters itself to match it up. Are you going from tail end up the rafter to ridge and in your video are you measuring 16" centers along the rafter. Thanks Medic29223
Great video. When you set your ridge board on the existing roof and place the flat angled boards down on the existing roof, do you remove the shingles from the existing roof first?
Do you have any videos that show you laying the shingles from the new roof connecting to the old roof. Do you weave in the shingles or run metal valleys.
Weaving laminated shingles sucks. Bulges from the build up. Weaving was great for 3 tab. Today - California point or metal in valley... I nail torch down in valley before the metal. Washington state weather...
For the boards that run into the ridge beam, I was always told that it needs to be a little above the beam for the roofers and their ridge cap. Does that make sense? Looking for an explanation as to why that is
Are there any advantages/disadvantages to cutting out existing roof shingles out when adding on a roof? I've seen it done both ways (cutting out or leaving them).
I want to add a decorative gable end to existing roof. My question is it a must to cut the shingles back or can I just run right over top of them? Gonna finish the roof with standing seam
hey thanks for the vid .... quick question when you measure off your on layout board was that marked in anyway or did you guess where 16 on center would be ?
Thanks for great video as I plan to do the same thing for my carport. Please help me to calculate the tilt of the carport's roof, I need it has tilt of 28 degree with the high end is 8 feet high so what is the height of lower end to get 28 degree tilt with the 7"6' span between the posts. Your help is greatly appreciated.
We have a 1 story house that has a hip roof and we want to add onto the side of it a 2 story addition for a mother in law type apartment and I can't find any kind of plans that add a 2 story onto the side of an existing 1 story hip roof house...can you suggest?
Love the video. I'm tying in a roof deck into my existing house. I've seen multiple approaches to my question. Does existing shingles have to be removed for the valley board that support the rafters?? I have seen where the valley board is placed on top of the shingle with roofing glue, etc... my shingles on my house are practically brand new from a storm that took them out last year.
This job got a complete tear off and re shingle, so there was no retrofitting needed. But if it’s not getting re-shingled, you have to use a flat bar and peel the shingles away from the valley so iceguard can be installed. Then you shingle the new roof up the valley and reinstall the removed shingles back on the existing roof. I hope this made sense!
So recently just found out that our roof only had the roof structure and without board and shingles. The constructor just put on the roof structure and straight away the metal roof. And it keep leaking whenever it rain and the air-con guy who step on the roof causes the roof and our wall to crack under the pressure....
Hello! Great video. This English teacher thinks you make a great construction teacher :) I do have two questions. I believe you said the newly constructed roof had a different pitch than the existing structure. Question 1: I would like my addition to have a 12/12 pitch (with attic trusses) so I have maximum space above the living area. How would that work with what you've shared here? The ridgeline of the new structure would be far higher than the existing, I can't envision how this would work. Question 2: Our existing structure (house) is pier and beam. Most things I've read indicate the addition should then continue the pier and beam foundation. I've read carefully the pros and cons of p&b vs. slab on grade. I'd value hearing your thoughts. Can or should a slab even be poured to abut a p&b structure?
I would go p&b to match up, plus I’m just not a fan of slab on grade. Your addition can be taller than the existing structure, it would just need a gable wall to finish it off. I hope this all makes sense…
The maximum pitch should match the peak of the original homes roof. Because the addition isn't as wide as the addition you will end up with the space you need above but not necessarily 12 on 12.
top cut is your roof pitch. how do you figure your cut that sits on your valley board? I get the 4/12 angle but what’s the other one and how do you get to that
The top and bottom cuts are your roof pitch, so it’s the vertical side of a 4/12 at the ridge, and the horizontal side of a 4/12 on the valley board. The bevel is the degree equal to the pitch of the roof you’re sitting on.
I'm not a framer so pardon my ignorance, but why are your rafters notched to fit over your ridge board and then gusseted rather than just dying into the ridge board completely as you would typically see?
The ridge beam holds up the weight of the roof since there are no ceiling joists. The rafters sit on top of the beam so the load transfers down vertically.
do u need rafter ties? i did something similar like this for my flat roof carport turned to pitched roof and i thought i don't need rafter ties until an inspection say i need it. so i'm not sure where to tie it to because the new roof tying into old pitched roof.
Hey couple questions for y'ah. How do you go about installing valley flashing on an existing roof that still has decent shingles that you don't want to totally redo? Decent as in they shed water and are sealed from years of sun, but not decent as in if I tried to loosen them and pull nails to slide some metal valley flashing under, they would probably crumble and definitely not reseal? Next, any pointers for tying into a hip roof towards the corner? Picture a rectangle house with standard 4/12 Hip and 2' eaves. Now what is the best way to add onto the corner of that house, going out the back side of it? Do you maintain the existing hip rafter and use that for your pitch for the addition? I don't see how else to do this, but it's messing with my head visualizing it.
I’ve ran into shingles like that before and unfortunately usually ended up stripping the whole area and re-shingling. As for the hip roof, If I’m understanding you right, you can just continue the plane of the roof onto the addition. I’ve done it before, and it definitely takes some figuring to get it right.
@@MyDIYAdventures Per the hip roof, so you follow the existing slope on one side of the addition, and then after the center point of the addition you create a valley on the old to new roof to bring that second half or 'plane' down to the eave?
How do you know if the roof you’re tying into can support all the extra weight of the new roof material? I’m assuming that 4/12 you tied into was a truss. I thought they were only engineered for dead load plus live load/snow load, if applicable, plus a safety margin I assume?
As long as the existing roof is built to code, it should hold the new roof with no problem. I’ve never had a circumstance where I had to add extra support to the existing roof.
I bought a home where they added a room addition, but instead of the roof being like this, they just continued on the normal slope of the house, resulting in the end being extremely low to the ground. Think it’ll be costly to turn it back around to this?
All angled measurements should be from the long point. If one of my guys yells "from the short!" I send them home without pay. 😂 Jk. But no it does irritate me
@@MyDIYAdventures Here in Brazil there are some courses, but I doubt if they would have the same quality as those who have been practicing and developing this type of construction for many years. Thank you for making videos that inspire us.
Is there any way you could provide a generic cost analysis for materials, and can a monkey like me with only welding experience and an eager attitude DIY this?
Cost is gonna vary depending on the situation. If you’ve done any construction before, I’m sure there’s tons more videos you can watch to walk you through the process.
Video of the day! Check it out!
ruclips.net/video/eGMFjnN0zug/видео.html
Hi, I just wanted to take a moment a thank you for this video. My Pastor and I adding a new addition to our Church and the addition is going to have two valleys in which neither of us have built before. This video and a few others really helped. Thank You.
I’m glad it helped! Y’all got this, God bless!
This video rocks, your timing was perfect, no bs filler, but you took long enough on everything to make it make sense. Thank you.
Thanks! That honestly means a lot to me…I never know if I’m making sense or not🤷♂️
Priceless information. I will be referring back to this next summer.
Got an addition going in the summer?
@@MyDIYAdventures Yes but it might be a shed style roof. I also have a entry patio cover that I have to build. It will be a gable style roof that is 15 x10
Easy peasy! I’m sure you’ve built a few over the years🤷♂️
I wish you would make a video leading up to that point. Can't find one anywhere showing how to attach beams to top plate. This was a good one for the second half of the job. Thanks for the details.
I have a few other rafter videos you can check out, maybe one of them will help you out.
Good video...i did that...this past summer..false cable end..first time...doing that
Insightful solutions.Perhaps you have a suggestion to this issue: old house we bought has room addition (3:12 roof) where its side of the valley eave is 1.5 inches lower than main roof (6:12) eave at the corner. Now I know why wasps always flying in and out of that valley corner. I saw the guts of the misalignment when I tore off roof and decking (about 15 sheets). Seems options might be: 1) sister each 2x6 rafter and raise 1.5 inches and add to facia board and rake to chimney (not good since entire perimeter eave would be affected). 2) cut a wedge and plug the opening - uneven valley still); or 3) take gutter and fascia off and shorten the offending eave a couple inches until corners are in the same plane. It's already open and covered with Tiger Paw during intermittent rains and seems might as well fix properly now than recover the old problem. Thoughts?
To me, the easiest would be to cut a wedge, or maybe bend up some aluminum to cover that spot. I’ve dealt with eaves not lining up quite often, and usually just filled that area with a creative piece of metal and some silicon. Cutting the overhang back would obviously work too.
Thank you a real carpenter. This is how you really do it. Maybe you can show the ridge installation.
I think I show it in this video:
ruclips.net/video/DzEC26LoY24/видео.html
Roofing a home rocks! Don't forget to replace the flashing though and seal around the chimney properly!
I left that to the roofing crew!
When I started framing in 1971, it was paper and pencil.
Today I use a Construction Pro Master calculator and a tape measure.
I remember when you had to know the formula... a2xb2xc2
Everyone should still know the Pythagorean Theorem! And I’ve never used a construction calculator, I’d have no idea how to use it LOL
@@MyDIYAdventures I got a Construction Management degree 2010 and got one.
Nice. Ive helped build an overstack but never done one myself. Is is excellent. Im about to add one to my house and i gettum now
Good luck!
Dig it, thanks for sharing. Love the use of squares, strategy, appreciate it, learning.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video....I have seen them install over the shingles and never thought that was correct, can you comment on that...
Some places let that fly, and some don’t…I personally wouldn’t ever do it even if it were allowed by code.
I am here because of the Handyman. Going to subscribe!
Awesome! Welcome aboard! This channel is a bit more of a clown show than The Handyman’s…but I’m working on it!😂
Great video
Thanks for watching!
hey ya, i've been watching your video on valley trussing, and it's been very helpful to me. I had one question, which I may know the answer already, when to gp to measure and set the valley plates, and you showed measuring from the set rafters over, what measurement are you using on the rafters itself to match it up. Are you going from tail end up the rafter to ridge and in your video are you measuring 16" centers along the rafter. Thanks Medic29223
Yeah, I just continued the 16” spacing onto the valley, and I do measure the valley rafters from long point to long point.
great thanks again like I said your a big help in my project.
Great video. When you set your ridge board on the existing roof and place the flat angled boards down on the existing roof, do you remove the shingles from the existing roof first?
Yes! I’ve seen people go right over the shingles, but personally, I think that’s a terrible way to do it.
Awesome video, thank you. Do you need to cut off the fascia board and overhang (within the addition) if you're adding engineered Trusses? Thank you.
The overhang only needs to be removed if it’s in the way.
awesome Video
I'm glad you found it useful!
Very informative. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thank you sir. Very easy to understand. Great Video!
Thank you! I’m always afraid that my explanations miss the target.
Really like your video on this I’ve done a few patios this was but doing a new one soon do you land the rafters on top of the others on the roof?
That’s what the 2x12 valley board is for, to distribute the rafter load.
Do you have any videos that show you laying the shingles from the new roof connecting to the old roof. Do you weave in the shingles or run metal valleys.
Sorry I don’t have any videos showing the shingles.
Weaving laminated shingles sucks.
Bulges from the build up. Weaving was great for 3 tab.
Today - California point or metal in valley...
I nail torch down in valley before the metal.
Washington state weather...
can you cut out the old roof underneath the addition to vent the new section into the existing attic?
Yep!
For the boards that run into the ridge beam, I was always told that it needs to be a little above the beam for the roofers and their ridge cap. Does that make sense? Looking for an explanation as to why that is
You mean the rafters? Sometimes there’s room left above the ridge for ridge vent.
Are there any advantages/disadvantages to cutting out existing roof shingles out when adding on a roof? I've seen it done both ways (cutting out or leaving them).
I think it’s just bad practice to frame over shingles.
Excellent!
Thank you!
Great video, can i ask how you tie the ridge board into the existing roof? Did you have to put any extra supports in the existing roof?
No extra supports, it just gets nailed to the roof.
I want to add a decorative gable end to existing roof. My question is it a must to cut the shingles back or can I just run right over top of them? Gonna finish the roof with standing seam
I’ve always removed the shingles before tying in, if that helps ya.
Looking good bro
Appreciate it
hey thanks for the vid .... quick question when you measure off your on layout board was that marked in anyway or did you guess where 16 on center would be ?
That rafter was already at 16” on center
Thanks for great video as I plan to do the same thing for my carport. Please help me to calculate the tilt of the carport's roof, I need it has tilt of 28 degree with the high end is 8 feet high so what is the height of lower end to get 28 degree tilt with the 7"6' span between the posts. Your help is greatly appreciated.
A 28° slope is about a 6.5/12 pitch.
We have a 1 story house that has a hip roof and we want to add onto the side of it a 2 story addition for a mother in law type apartment and I can't find any kind of plans that add a 2 story onto the side of an existing 1 story hip roof house...can you suggest?
Find yourself a good architect
Great videos. 👍
Love the video. I'm tying in a roof deck into my existing house. I've seen multiple approaches to my question. Does existing shingles have to be removed for the valley board that support the rafters?? I have seen where the valley board is placed on top of the shingle with roofing glue, etc... my shingles on my house are practically brand new from a storm that took them out last year.
All I can say is that I’ve never built over shingles.
Always remove the roofing.
Wood to wood framing.
NEVER frame over ANY TYPE OF ROOFING.
It will peel in heavy winds/gusts.
I enjoy your videos. How did you tie in the new and old roof with your shingles?
This job got a complete tear off and re shingle, so there was no retrofitting needed. But if it’s not getting re-shingled, you have to use a flat bar and peel the shingles away from the valley so iceguard can be installed. Then you shingle the new roof up the valley and reinstall the removed shingles back on the existing roof. I hope this made sense!
@@MyDIYAdventures Thanks. Could a galvanized Valley flashing be used instead of the ice guard? I'm in CA. Thanks
Yeah, as long as your local code allows it.
Is it necessary to pull shingles and felt to tying in new addition?
Some places allow you to do that, but I never would.
Thanks for the info. We are tying an addition roof but I just wasn't sure if we had to rip off the old shingles were the new roof is been tied in. Ty
So recently just found out that our roof only had the roof structure and without board and shingles. The constructor just put on the roof structure and straight away the metal roof. And it keep leaking whenever it rain and the air-con guy who step on the roof causes the roof and our wall to crack under the pressure....
Well that’s not good!
Great video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it
Great instruction. Thx,
Thanks for watching!
What nailer are you using for all of this?
Paslode
Is it bad to not remove the shingles so you don’t have to tarp over the roof for rain?
Some building inspectors allow it on one layer of shingles, but I’ve never done it without stripping the shingles.
Hello! Great video. This English teacher thinks you make a great construction teacher :) I do have two questions. I believe you said the newly constructed roof had a different pitch than the existing structure. Question 1: I would like my addition to have a 12/12 pitch (with attic trusses) so I have maximum space above the living area. How would that work with what you've shared here? The ridgeline of the new structure would be far higher than the existing, I can't envision how this would work. Question 2: Our existing structure (house) is pier and beam. Most things I've read indicate the addition should then continue the pier and beam foundation. I've read carefully the pros and cons of p&b vs. slab on grade. I'd value hearing your thoughts. Can or should a slab even be poured to abut a p&b structure?
I would go p&b to match up, plus I’m just not a fan of slab on grade. Your addition can be taller than the existing structure, it would just need a gable wall to finish it off. I hope this all makes sense…
The maximum pitch should match the peak of the original homes roof. Because the addition isn't as wide as the addition you will end up with the space you need above but not necessarily 12 on 12.
Home isn't
Excellent video, thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Glad it was helpful!
Great content.
Thank you!!!
top cut is your roof pitch. how do you figure your cut that sits on your valley board? I get the 4/12 angle but what’s the other one and how do you get to that
The top and bottom cuts are your roof pitch, so it’s the vertical side of a 4/12 at the ridge, and the horizontal side of a 4/12 on the valley board. The bevel is the degree equal to the pitch of the roof you’re sitting on.
I'm not a framer so pardon my ignorance, but why are your rafters notched to fit over your ridge board and then gusseted rather than just dying into the ridge board completely as you would typically see?
The ridge beam holds up the weight of the roof since there are no ceiling joists. The rafters sit on top of the beam so the load transfers down vertically.
@@MyDIYAdventures that makes sense, thanks for the response.
It might be to accommodate the cathedral style ceilings.
do u need rafter ties? i did something similar like this for my flat roof carport turned to pitched roof and i thought i don't need rafter ties until an inspection say i need it. so i'm not sure where to tie it to because the new roof tying into old pitched roof.
I think I probably did throw in a few collar ties on those rafters just to appease the inspector.
I guess my question would be, why peaks aren’t the same height? My house masters bedroom roof seems a bit lower than the main house peak.
They don’t need to line up🤷♂️
@@MyDIYAdventures is that by personal design?
Yeah, why would intersecting ridges need to line up?🤷♂️
Hey couple questions for y'ah. How do you go about installing valley flashing on an existing roof that still has decent shingles that you don't want to totally redo? Decent as in they shed water and are sealed from years of sun, but not decent as in if I tried to loosen them and pull nails to slide some metal valley flashing under, they would probably crumble and definitely not reseal?
Next, any pointers for tying into a hip roof towards the corner? Picture a rectangle house with standard 4/12 Hip and 2' eaves. Now what is the best way to add onto the corner of that house, going out the back side of it? Do you maintain the existing hip rafter and use that for your pitch for the addition? I don't see how else to do this, but it's messing with my head visualizing it.
I’ve ran into shingles like that before and unfortunately usually ended up stripping the whole area and re-shingling. As for the hip roof, If I’m understanding you right, you can just continue the plane of the roof onto the addition. I’ve done it before, and it definitely takes some figuring to get it right.
@@MyDIYAdventures Per the hip roof, so you follow the existing slope on one side of the addition, and then after the center point of the addition you create a valley on the old to new roof to bring that second half or 'plane' down to the eave?
Correct!👍
Nice job
Thanks!
How do you know if the roof you’re tying into can support all the extra weight of the new roof material? I’m assuming that 4/12 you tied into was a truss. I thought they were only engineered for dead load plus live load/snow load, if applicable, plus a safety margin I assume?
As long as the existing roof is built to code, it should hold the new roof with no problem. I’ve never had a circumstance where I had to add extra support to the existing roof.
I bought a home where they added a room addition, but instead of the roof being like this, they just continued on the normal slope of the house, resulting in the end being extremely low to the ground. Think it’ll be costly to turn it back around to this?
I would guess that could be costly
@@MyDIYAdventures Any chance of re arranging or building on top of ?
how would you determine this sharp edge thats sitting on a slope if on another side of rafter is a birds mouth?
I’m not sure what you mean
How will I do this but adding to a vaulted ceiling
I wouldn’t think it would be much different since you are building on top of the existing roof.
Good video.
Thanks!
Wow, great stuff: The Handyman himself linked this vid in his latest vid!
He sure did! And for that I owe him debt of gratitude!
What is the reasoning that you can't set on top of the shingles?
Why would you want to build over old shingles???
All angled measurements should be from the long point. If one of my guys yells "from the short!" I send them home without pay. 😂 Jk. But no it does irritate me
I sent all my helpers home a few years ago and never called them back LOL
thank you!
You are welcome!
Trabalharia de graça, só pra aprender e poder construir uma dessas aqui pra mim na minha cidade. Um forte abraço, direto do Brasil!
I’m sure there’s someone near you that you could learn from! And thanks for watching!
@@MyDIYAdventures Here in Brazil there are some courses, but I doubt if they would have the same quality as those who have been practicing and developing this type of construction for many years. Thank you for making videos that inspire us.
Thank you for watching the videos!
Otherwise known as a California, for those who live in California, Lol. Good job thanks for the vid.
Thanks for watching!
Wow, someone who doesn’t frame their valley over existing shingles.
I’ve never done it once
So how do I get you onsite to oversee my project. Lol
Unless you live down the street from me, it ain't happening! LOL
Thanks
7:54 & 8:42 - Perfect Handyman acrost
Is there any way you could provide a generic cost analysis for materials, and can a monkey like me with only welding experience and an eager attitude DIY this?
Cost is gonna vary depending on the situation. If you’ve done any construction before, I’m sure there’s tons more videos you can watch to walk you through the process.
L G Larry Haun made this look easy
He was the GOAT of framing tutorials!
I pass you can speak. On your own with practice practice practice it's gets u better on a daily basis
You forgot the crown them😅
The longest rafters got crowned, the short ones, not so much
🚜🌾🙏❤️🌾
Confusing!
It can be a confusing process, and I’m sure my explanation only made it worse LOL
i'd work for you for free a couple of days just to learn.
Work starts at 8:00! See ya there!
Well unfortunately he'd be losing valuable daylight, time and money by teaching you on the job; even more so if you're a novice.
No idea what the hell you're saying.
Because of the bad audio? Or because I don’t make any sense???
Amateur at best
The term “professional” wasn’t uttered once in the video🤷♂️
Even amateur beats "internet loser".
Pretty useless you aren’t really walking through and showing much no home owner could figure it out from your video
There’s plenty other videos from other channels to watch.
If this wasn't enough information for you, maybe start with something more basic, like a class on what different tools do.
How much would you pay someone to do this? I’m in serious need of this application (as an extension off the back patio).
How much to hire a contractor to build the whole roof over your patio? Probably $10k +/-
Thank you for responding so quickly! This helps out a lot!
Great video
Thank you!
@@MyDIYAdventures got my subscription
I’ve been in the industry for almost 2 decades. You’re spot on 👌
Thank you! We veterans of the trade need to stick together!
What's size of raptors? 2x6 or 2x8?
2x6
Great video
Thank you!