I don't think it's the best but possibly equal to garage4age's Chanel as I explain alot more but he is all about real world examples and testing, I could be full of it for all anyone knows lol 😂
@@mtperformanceengines3508 actually... garage4age just shows dyno graphs, nothing in depth. I STILL maintain my opinion, niko is the best informative 4age channel.
Exactly, I’m so excited to share this series. The same can be said for the cars these engines came from I’ve tried to research them but the info is minimal 😩
My friend use a piece of metal, pressed down between the cylinder and outer block wall in the water jacket. This stop the cylinder to get oval at high boost. Simple but effective.
I've never run squirters on my engines on past builds. Good memories. Thank you. There are still many things very important to this particular motor. I must say, I've never done a turbo 4AG for racing; maybe if I live; I'll give it a go. I still have lots of stuff in storage.
One day maybe when we start covering the drag racing of the cars and circuit work of all our projects in the build are running the sub base might get better
Mat’s knowledge stems from an obsession with 4a engines and we’re all benefiting from it now. He also has a natural talent for teaching. Sleeve’s aren’t a topic we spoke about with this engine. I’ll keep it in mind next time I’m filming with him.
Amazing content. Hard to find such info even back on the old AE86DC forum. Any clearance issues in the block or head when drilling them out for the 1/2" head studs? Could you go over the method to grouting the block and what areas need filling? Any drawbacks in doing so? Is there any reason for not running a full cradle which ties in each main cap to the block rather than the two that you have done? Is it weight or clearance in keeping the dry sump as high up so the motor can sit further down in the chassis? With the oil squirters, would shortening the bolts that hold them in place solve the issue of that cavitation as well or is there not enough thread in place? As it seems the grub screws that you've used don't protrude into the oil gallery. Wondering if I should change mine over when I have to pull the motor back out after the run in.
Yes there is clearencing work required in the head for the nuts to fit over the studs For concreting I will do a video with nik to show everything about that Oil squirter is a difficult topic to cover in a RUclips reply 😅
It's not really good practice to weld cranks as they can bend, it's better to machine holes and add a metal slug called Mallory that's incredibly dense and hence heavier
Curious to ask, with the custom oil squirter positioning, wouldn't it be better to take a 7-rib 4afe and do the oil squirters in the way Hassengren has? Even better, take a 7afe taller block, chuck a 4age crank and 135mm/136mm rods for a better rod ratio to help smooth the rocking?
The long rod 7a block idea is a great idea but I'm not sure how a taller engine will fit the car as they use the cam cover as an engine mount. As for the the block we have it seems to me that they have just made what they have work and it seems to work just fine. Its difficult for us to say why they haven't done something because everything is just speculation at this point. We're just happy to be able to get a close look.
I heard mention of wishing to concrete the block. Would that not reduce the cooling efficiency of the motor? Especially since it's going in a circuit racing car?
So the concrete only goes in the bottom of the water jacket and on e98 (98%ethanol) there is no heat down there and it's mostly in the head and top of the block so in my opinion every block weather it's stock or massive hp should have concrete I can do a video with niko on this as I'm doing a block soon
@carey7272 personally I would concrete even petrol street cars, there is benefits to filling the bottom of the jacket as the water down there acts like a really bad heat sink and when you fill wofh concrete the water has more constant flow over the back of the bores
Interesting question and one that is difficult to answer in a message response but short answer the throttle body didn't need to be any smaller or larger than the intercooler piping, there is a longer answer that would take possibly a 20min video
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Mind blown, with all the tech info and the uniqueness of the Formula Atlantic engine. Great jobs fellas, can't wait to see part 2!!
Yeah it’s very cool to see, thanks for the support 👍
This is the best 4age channel
Thanks mate 😅
I don't think it's the best but possibly equal to garage4age's Chanel as I explain alot more but he is all about real world examples and testing, I could be full of it for all anyone knows lol 😂
@@mtperformanceengines3508 actually... garage4age just shows dyno graphs, nothing in depth. I STILL maintain my opinion, niko is the best informative 4age channel.
So much interesting information. Thank you for sharing.
No problem thanks for watching 👍
I’ve actually been missing this content. Glad to see it back. 👌
I've never seen a detailed explanation of a stripped FA 4ag before. Ive seen whats but not why's. This is great.
Exactly, I’m so excited to share this series.
The same can be said for the cars these engines came from I’ve tried to research them but the info is minimal 😩
absolutely hyped to see the series
Thanks man 👍
My friend use a piece of metal, pressed down between the cylinder and outer block wall in the water jacket. This stop the cylinder to get oval at high boost. Simple but effective.
I've never run squirters on my engines on past builds. Good memories. Thank you. There are still many things very important to this particular motor. I must say, I've never done a turbo 4AG for racing; maybe if I live; I'll give it a go. I still have lots of stuff in storage.
best 4age channel ❤
Thanks
Great job fellas 👏
Cheers Jesse
With this and other content on your channel you should have 100,000 followers. This is great stuff🎉🎉😊
One day maybe when we start covering the drag racing of the cars and circuit work of all our projects in the build are running the sub base might get better
ohhhh...nice video man.The info given by a professional engine builder are gold. Congrats :D :D :D Amazing..
amazing amount of info, over the years you pick up a little here a little there
no mention of sleeves ??
Mat’s knowledge stems from an obsession with 4a engines and we’re all benefiting from it now.
He also has a natural talent for teaching.
Sleeve’s aren’t a topic we spoke about with this engine. I’ll keep it in mind next time I’m filming with him.
Excellent! Ramsay special aluminium bronze for anyone wondering
Amazing content. Hard to find such info even back on the old AE86DC forum.
Any clearance issues in the block or head when drilling them out for the 1/2" head studs?
Could you go over the method to grouting the block and what areas need filling? Any drawbacks in doing so?
Is there any reason for not running a full cradle which ties in each main cap to the block rather than the two that you have done? Is it weight or clearance in keeping the dry sump as high up so the motor can sit further down in the chassis?
With the oil squirters, would shortening the bolts that hold them in place solve the issue of that cavitation as well or is there not enough thread in place? As it seems the grub screws that you've used don't protrude into the oil gallery. Wondering if I should change mine over when I have to pull the motor back out after the run in.
Yes there is clearencing work required in the head for the nuts to fit over the studs
For concreting I will do a video with nik to show everything about that
Oil squirter is a difficult topic to cover in a RUclips reply 😅
Great content Niko 😍
Thanks 😁
wow u guys are incredible first-time washing im gonna subscribe just to get my 5efe build kind of similarly parts but way less power ❤
24:40 I wonder if you could re balance the crank by welding in some extra to counteract that imbalance
It's not really good practice to weld cranks as they can bend, it's better to machine holes and add a metal slug called Mallory that's incredibly dense and hence heavier
Curious to ask, with the custom oil squirter positioning, wouldn't it be better to take a 7-rib 4afe and do the oil squirters in the way Hassengren has? Even better, take a 7afe taller block, chuck a 4age crank and 135mm/136mm rods for a better rod ratio to help smooth the rocking?
The long rod 7a block idea is a great idea but I'm not sure how a taller engine will fit the car as they use the cam cover as an engine mount.
As for the the block we have it seems to me that they have just made what they have work and it seems to work just fine.
Its difficult for us to say why they haven't done something because everything is just speculation at this point. We're just happy to be able to get a close look.
I'd say Beryllium-copper is the material of the fire-rings :P
You can try but it's not that 😊
I heard mention of wishing to concrete the block. Would that not reduce the cooling efficiency of the motor? Especially since it's going in a circuit racing car?
So the concrete only goes in the bottom of the water jacket and on e98 (98%ethanol) there is no heat down there and it's mostly in the head and top of the block so in my opinion every block weather it's stock or massive hp should have concrete I can do a video with niko on this as I'm doing a block soon
@@mtperformanceengines3508 thanks for the answer. Would love to see a video on this as well.
@@mtperformanceengines3508 would this be recommended for a road race engine on gasoline?
@carey7272 personally I would concrete even petrol street cars, there is benefits to filling the bottom of the jacket as the water down there acts like a really bad heat sink and when you fill wofh concrete the water has more constant flow over the back of the bores
@@mtperformanceengines3508 would you fill the block all the way on a petrol street motor?
Do you think a TRD head gasket and ARP 2000 head studs will be fine for a 200hp 20V blacktop build?
What size throttle body did you use? And how do you go about choosing throttle body sizes?
Interesting question and one that is difficult to answer in a message response but short answer the throttle body didn't need to be any smaller or larger than the intercooler piping, there is a longer answer that would take possibly a 20min video
Go go fastest 4age...❤16v 20v❤
+
First person ive ever heard said that a dual plenum intake is a bad and old design.