Thank you so much. This is awesome. They are indeed very well made and can see the chamber is a great design, just needs a hyper scavenge plateau by the exhaust. Oh, these are the 72CC heads, ok well then, they would go on a 383 very good just as a 327 or 350 really likes the 64CC or smaller as far as getting a good compression ratio with flat top relief pistons.
Considered these heads in the past, I've also herd the same that Dart makes them for summit and I know my Dart Platinum Pro1's had that same green tape.
I believe that is a strategy when wanting to buy something. If you still wanted in a few weeks then buy it. You messages were 3 years apart so I believe this qualifies.
Got a pair to run on my 350 with XE262 cam and 9.5-1 for a C10 truck, Anyone know how to use these with centerbolt covers? Says it takes both types with slight mod.
@@yourbeatscore5762 I did purchase a pair. My machine shop took one apart to inspect them. Valves were not lubed in the stem area. Project creap took over and ended with a roller cammed 383 and aluminum heads. Lol. I still have them. Would be great for a nice 350.
Can someone help me??? What do I need to do to these heads for it to accept a roller cam with the lift of 495/502?? I really can't get an answer from summit.
I see a lot of these videos from very nice guys like this guy who see some new heads with shiny new valves and thing "wow - these look great they must be good". I can tell from the video that some of the valves are tipped at different heights. Not to say that they can't be used. And the runners look like the could be cleaned up a bit. Again, not saying they can't be used. But they should pulled apart and thoroughly gone though. Just because they look pretty is no guarantee that the are ready to run as a lot of these aftermarket brands claim. Trust no one and check them yourself or have a reliable machinist that u trust go through em'
smart man,brodix,dart,edlebrock can all have bad days.the cheaper the stuff is the more bad heads/parts get through so going through them,checking for leakdown because of a lousy valve job,bad seats,flash in the ports etc is necessary and worth the cost.
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 You have a very good grip on the situation. I agree 100% The cheaper heads are not as good but Edelbrock lied about the stainless steel valves and other things as well. That bothers me more than a little-being on a tight budget myself. I feel ( and this just the opinion of an old racer/ builder) that when ya drop $1,200 on even a cheap set of heads they should be what Edelbrock claims they are. Still in agreement with 100%. Just my "Old- man opinion" I'm running Edelbrock "performer" heads on my car now and they're a big step up from the "E" Street heads they offer. But they still needed quite a bit of work before bolting them down. Probably woulda' been ok just bolting them down- but I strive to be as close as I can with the limited tools I have on hand. I worked in a machine shop as young man (before aluminum heads were common place) I've ported many cast-iron heads and got just as much, and some times more power than stock Edelbrock heads. As a general rule....Not saying that's for every motor...But most V-8's yeah... BUKU power for next to nothing. I guess I'm expecting too much from Edelbrock. Heh, Heh.
@@guidosarducci3047 Hey, I agree 100%. Better to chek'um and do anything You can do before bolting Them On. Pretty and Shiny don't always mean They're Good.... You sound like an Old School, Experienced and Wise Man. Have a Good One My Friend
I’m 59 years old and can say that Father Guido Sarducci …. How many Popes did you ever see in the Pizza ? SNL reference for you millennials here. They are Dart made for Summit. Good Stuff for sure.
I like these, as I have a set of 882's that outside of working, really are missing so much - like chamber shape. I also want iron, as any more weight removed from the front end, and I'm probably looking at new springs for the suspension. I don't think I will use the springs included [I like running a solid cam] but for the price... can't complain. Looks like a set of 1.437" springs will nearly drop in. Did you pulll valves and check seat runout on these?
@@jonathanlawson4667 I hear ya: deck it, valve job, and longer valves if you want to run much over 0.500 lift [just to squeeze correct springs in], cross your fingers and where are you? Jjust buy new heads.
That was true in my case, but it was not a high power build so I was not trying to squeeze every last pony out of it. The heads have been in use for a free years now with no issues.
@@dennisgray7509 oh well not what was said. There are multiple camel breeds and some have one hump some have two. But if we’re talking about Chevrolet heads with 2.02/1.60 valves then yes double hump heads. I have a beautiful set set sitting right in front of me now!
@@asquaregarden Thanks for that info...I am looking really hard at these, going to swap factory heads on a 260hp chevy crate 350, purchased at summit. Did you find the quality acceptable, r u happy with the purchase? Thanks again for the info......
Can you do a follow up video and also never install any heads regardless of manufacture without having them checked out by machine shop. Most always the valve guides arnt perfectly centered which causes the valves to be off on the seat. They mass produce these things and dont spend the time making them perfect they just pass it off on the consumer plus you never know who assembled them.
I have some footage that I took but never got a chance to edit. I did a test with carb cleaner to make sure there were seated right. There were no leaks so I just cleaned them and they are already on my motor. Did the break in this weekend. The truck is not ready but I should have it going in a few weeks.
For anybody is looking for the best iron heads or a head that’s as good as modern small block aluminum heads find a set of bare Top Proline 23° iron heads for a sbc. Company went under in 03 but you can still find them... Family friend raced in the 90’s and early 2000’s when these heads were made. Sold them to me a couple years ago and they weren’t on a motor since 2005. I ported them, and had some work done to them being they were sitting for a near 15 years. Stock they were 23°, 230cc runners, 64cc chambers, and 2.08 valves. I ported them to 240cc and had them flow tested. 290cfm at .685 lift. With my old combo that was a 406 sbc it was full cast/iron and 12:1 compression. 650hp naturally aspirated. I ran 9.80’s on motor and 8.90’s with a 200 shot. Most modern heads aren’t going to give you those times with that hp... 9.80 on a full iron/cast small block that made 650hp with no juice. If you can get your hands on a set you can get them bare for $400 all day. Go buy em up.
What were The Specs on That 400? Factory 2 Bolt Chevy Block? Crank, Rods and Cam? That's some Real Impressive Numbers My Friend. Thanks In Advance. Have A Great Day My Friend.
@@joejones9944 those Pro Topline are rare. I didn’t realize until after I said this that it corrected it to top proline.... not the name of them lol. Pro Topline. I had an Ohio crankshaft, Ohio h beam rods, factory block with a ton of machining done, and zero decked, je flat top pistons, the heads ported and cnc milled, super victor Intake with dominator flange, 3” spacer, 1050 dominated jetted to 1140. Block was a 4 bolt. Ran Harland sharp roller rockers with a stud girdle
Hate to break it to you but there is no way around checking valve train geometry Just changing to a cam with different lift with everything else being the same will change it If you are going from a pressed in stud to a threaded stud the stud boss height will change significantly thus changing the geometry significantly Yes you may get away with being off in pushrod length by as much as .250 but for how long? And will it stay together if you twist it to high rpm? I was told I was being way too obsessive about spring pressure and valve train geometry when I put my 357 together but I will say that I have done a few cam swaps in this engine, the first cam was very rev happy wich ended in me accidentally reving it over 7500 a few times and it stayed together with no damage This was over 50000 miles ago and with the engine still running great at near 85000 0n it I attribute it to me making sure the geometry was correct Checking geometry really is pretty simple anyone can do it if they are shown how
@@johnharty7197 Your are correct in that you should always check if straying from the standard configuration. I was able to use stock in mine because my setup was pretty mild and the cam manufacturer recommended stock push rods. And there is nothing wrong with being a little obsessive about your own stuff.
@@asquaregarden thank you and I will agree if you are very near stock it's probably ok I'm nowhere near a professional engine builder and have built only a couple engines I just cringe at someone not checking geometry when going away from stock when if you know how to do it it's so simple If I can do it anyone can
@@johnharty7197 I'm on my first build and I'm checking out everything. That's why I'm here learning from others like the carpenter said measure twice and cut once .
It's an unboxing video, not a review. But yes I would have liked to see a flat test and closeups to see if he got a set that still needed some machining.
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated central gas station per city or county. Now they even want to slow down all the gas pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From 2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime. :-(
You just gonna copy and paste this same crap in every comment section of videos about V8 combustion engines? We get it, you live in a crap hole country with no freedoms. So, you deserve what you get when you elect corrupt Marxists. Either do something to correct your bad decisions or leave the rest of us alone.
Хобби
Thank you so much. This is awesome. They are indeed very well made and can see the chamber is a great design, just needs a hyper scavenge plateau by the exhaust. Oh, these are the 72CC heads, ok well then, they would go on a 383 very good just as a 327 or 350 really likes the 64CC or smaller as far as getting a good compression ratio with flat top relief pistons.
I hope you tested the intake and exhaust valves for leaks before you installed them
Hello, Have you considered asking what the flow numbers are for these heads be placed on your title description thanks
Oh they look good! Well that’s all I need to know
Do they come as a pair ?
Will these work with a TBI 350 and still retain the EGR provisions to satisfy smog compliance in AZ?
Considered these heads in the past, I've also herd the same that Dart makes them for summit and I know my Dart Platinum Pro1's had that same green tape.
And now I'm considering them again LOL
I believe that is a strategy when wanting to buy something. If you still wanted in a few weeks then buy it. You messages were 3 years apart so I believe this qualifies.
Got a pair to run on my 350 with XE262 cam and 9.5-1 for a C10 truck, Anyone know how to use these with centerbolt covers? Says it takes both types with slight mod.
What the difference between the stock l82 heads on a corvette? And price please thanks
Those are Dart Iron Eagles SS 72cc for sbc 2.02 intake/1.6 exhaust
nice heads
Thanks for posting this. I am planning on picking up a pair myself. Definitely try and do a follow up after getting some miles on them.
Soooooo?
@@yourbeatscore5762 I did purchase a pair. My machine shop took one apart to inspect them. Valves were not lubed in the stem area. Project creap took over and ended with a roller cammed 383 and aluminum heads. Lol. I still have them. Would be great for a nice 350.
@@toddgleeson7997 You never installed Them? How much would You take for them?
how do they work? any good
Can someone help me??? What do I need to do to these heads for it to accept a roller cam with the lift of 495/502?? I really can't get an answer from summit.
Do the heads come in a pair of 2 or do you need to buy them individually
They are sold individually.
I see a lot of these videos from very nice guys like this guy who see some new heads with shiny new valves and thing "wow - these look great they must be good". I can tell from the video that some of the valves are tipped at different heights. Not to say that they can't be used. And the runners look like the could be cleaned up a bit. Again, not saying they can't be used. But they should pulled apart and thoroughly gone though. Just because they look pretty is no guarantee that the are ready to run as a lot of these aftermarket brands claim. Trust no one and check them yourself or have a reliable machinist that u trust go through em'
smart man,brodix,dart,edlebrock can all have bad days.the cheaper the stuff is the more bad heads/parts get through so going through them,checking for leakdown because of a lousy valve job,bad seats,flash in the ports etc is necessary and worth the cost.
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 You have a very good grip on the situation. I agree 100% The cheaper heads are not as good but Edelbrock lied about the stainless steel valves and other things as well. That bothers me more than a little-being on a tight budget myself. I feel ( and this just the opinion of an old racer/ builder) that when ya drop $1,200 on even a cheap set of heads they should be what Edelbrock claims they are. Still in agreement with 100%. Just my "Old- man opinion" I'm running Edelbrock "performer" heads on my car now and they're a big step up from the "E" Street heads they offer. But they still needed quite a bit of work before bolting them down. Probably woulda' been ok just bolting them down- but I strive to be as close as I can with the limited tools I have on hand. I worked in a machine shop as young man (before aluminum heads were common place) I've ported many cast-iron heads and got just as much, and some times more power than stock Edelbrock heads. As a general rule....Not saying that's for every motor...But most V-8's yeah... BUKU power for next to nothing. I guess I'm expecting too much from Edelbrock. Heh, Heh.
@@guidosarducci3047 Hey, I agree 100%. Better to chek'um and do anything You can do before bolting Them On. Pretty and Shiny don't always mean They're Good.... You sound like an Old School, Experienced and Wise Man. Have a Good One My Friend
@@joejones9944 Thank you. You too.
I’m 59 years old and can say that Father Guido Sarducci …. How many Popes did you ever see in the Pizza ? SNL reference for you millennials here. They are Dart made for Summit. Good Stuff for sure.
I like these, as I have a set of 882's that outside of working, really are missing so much - like chamber shape. I also want iron, as any more weight removed from the front end, and I'm probably looking at new springs for the suspension. I don't think I will use the springs included [I like running a solid cam] but for the price... can't complain. Looks like a set of 1.437" springs will nearly drop in. Did you pulll valves and check seat runout on these?
882s suck by the time you spend the money to have 882s machined to where they're decent you could get a good set of dart heads
@@jonathanlawson4667 I hear ya: deck it, valve job, and longer valves if you want to run much over 0.500 lift [just to squeeze correct springs in], cross your fingers and where are you? Jjust buy new heads.
2 minutes looking at a cardboard box....And, If you open one end you can slide them out and reuse the box.
Or send the boxes back and claim there wasn't anything in them!! ROFL!!!
@@Anarchy-Is-Liberty Someone scrapped them.......😄
10021010 is a Dart number. If I remember correctly, that is the Iron Eagle set
yep they are Dart SS 165s
@@qball1of1 I have a set of Dart ss heads on my 350 and I love them
@@jonathanlawson4667 I am seriously considering them for a mild 350 build in a 71 C10..they seem to be what I am after.
@@qball1of1 you will not regret using dart heads
I paired them on a 350 with a comp nostalgia cam Edelbrock 600 cfm carb and she is radical and thirsty @@qball1of1
Cost? running size? cc size?
Should be 165cc 64cc
Also it's a good idea to take them apart and reassemble them.
So at this point you can just bolt them on and go? No additional machine work needed?
That was true in my case, but it was not a high power build so I was not trying to squeeze every last pony out of it. The heads have been in use for a free years now with no issues.
@@asquaregarden Awesome. Thank you. Have you had the engine dyno'd?
I have not. Thought about it a few times but it always felt like a want and not a need.
@@asquaregarden lol when in Rome!
I would if they were aluminum. How much did they set you back?
They were a little over $700 for the pair.
@@asquaregarden Not bad.
i have a set with a casting number starting with DAR and a 007 . its a iron eagle head
These are not machined for guideplates so not completely the same and I've seen them compared somewhat to camelbacks
BOOT what’s a camelback?
Thumper 1968 really? It’s the double hump head he’s referring to!
@@Thumper68 double hump he means,like a camel "i guess"
@@dennisgray7509 oh well not what was said. There are multiple camel breeds and some have one hump some have two. But if we’re talking about Chevrolet heads with 2.02/1.60 valves then yes double hump heads. I have a beautiful set set sitting right in front of me now!
Price?
I have been looking at these heads let us know how they worked out.
The heads have been in use for a while now. I’ve put about 1000 miles on it and have not seen any issues.
@@asquaregarden Thanks for that info...I am looking really hard at these, going to swap factory heads on a 260hp chevy crate
350, purchased at summit. Did you find the quality acceptable, r u happy with the purchase? Thanks again for the info......
@@mikef-gi2dg look at some quality vortec heads from summit
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 I have and they look good to me for a street small block. If you have used any, any feed back would be appreciated.
Can you do a follow up video and also never install any heads regardless of manufacture without having them checked out by machine shop. Most always the valve guides arnt perfectly centered which causes the valves to be off on the seat. They mass produce these things and dont spend the time making them perfect they just pass it off on the consumer plus you never know who assembled them.
I have some footage that I took but never got a chance to edit. I did a test with carb cleaner to make sure there were seated right. There were no leaks so I just cleaned them and they are already on my motor. Did the break in this weekend. The truck is not ready but I should have it going in a few weeks.
Or at least disassembling them, had a friend who had new BBC Dart alum heads and found a broken valve lock
American made?
yes
For anybody is looking for the best iron heads or a head that’s as good as modern small block aluminum heads find a set of bare Top Proline 23° iron heads for a sbc. Company went under in 03 but you can still find them... Family friend raced in the 90’s and early 2000’s when these heads were made. Sold them to me a couple years ago and they weren’t on a motor since 2005. I ported them, and had some work done to them being they were sitting for a near 15 years. Stock they were 23°, 230cc runners, 64cc chambers, and 2.08 valves. I ported them to 240cc and had them flow tested. 290cfm at .685 lift. With my old combo that was a 406 sbc it was full cast/iron and 12:1 compression. 650hp naturally aspirated. I ran 9.80’s on motor and 8.90’s with a 200 shot. Most modern heads aren’t going to give you those times with that hp... 9.80 on a full iron/cast small block that made 650hp with no juice. If you can get your hands on a set you can get them bare for $400 all day. Go buy em up.
What were The Specs on That 400? Factory 2 Bolt Chevy Block? Crank, Rods and Cam? That's some Real Impressive Numbers My Friend. Thanks In Advance. Have A Great Day My Friend.
@@joejones9944 those Pro Topline are rare. I didn’t realize until after I said this that it corrected it to top proline.... not the name of them lol. Pro Topline. I had an Ohio crankshaft, Ohio h beam rods, factory block with a ton of machining done, and zero decked, je flat top pistons, the heads ported and cnc milled, super victor Intake with dominator flange, 3” spacer, 1050 dominated jetted to 1140. Block was a 4 bolt. Ran Harland sharp roller rockers with a stud girdle
Check the valves some are using China valves. I dropped one.
Stock length pushrods?
Standard is what I used.
Hate to break it to you but there is no way around checking valve train geometry
Just changing to a cam with different lift with everything else being the same will change it
If you are going from a pressed in stud to a threaded stud the stud boss height will change significantly thus changing the geometry significantly
Yes you may get away with being off in pushrod length by as much as .250 but for how long? And will it stay together if you twist it to high rpm?
I was told I was being way too obsessive about spring pressure and valve train geometry when I put my 357 together but I will say that I have done a few cam swaps in this engine, the first cam was very rev happy wich ended in me accidentally reving
it over 7500 a few times and it stayed together with no damage
This was over 50000 miles ago and with the engine still running great at near 85000 0n it I attribute it to me making sure the geometry was correct
Checking geometry really is pretty simple anyone can do it if they are shown how
@@johnharty7197 Your are correct in that you should always check if straying from the standard configuration. I was able to use stock in mine because my setup was pretty mild and the cam manufacturer recommended stock push rods. And there is nothing wrong with being a little obsessive about your own stuff.
@@asquaregarden thank you and I will agree if you are very near stock it's probably ok
I'm nowhere near a professional engine builder and have built only a couple engines
I just cringe at someone not checking geometry when going away from stock when if you know how to do it it's so simple
If I can do it anyone can
@@johnharty7197 I'm on my first build and I'm checking out everything.
That's why I'm here learning from others like the carpenter said measure twice and cut once .
Dart castings that didn't make the cut....blems in other words
I like how you give 0 info besides they look good.
It's an unboxing video, not a review. But yes I would have liked to see a flat test and closeups to see if he got a set that still needed some machining.
Sadly from 2030 on all combustion cars including classics will be banned
from public streets in entire EU and Scandinavia :-( In Germany the
Green Peoples Party gave order to shorten fuel supply from 2025 on by
reducing all conventional fuel stations to only one state operated
central gas station per city or county. Now they even want to slow down
all the gas pumps from 20 litre per minute to 2 litre per minute...From
2027 on in the EU certain car spare parts will be banned too....as
exhaust systems, turbo chargers and even some engine and gearbox
oils...California and New York will do the same from 2027 on.... So no
investments should be done in oil burning cars any longer....They even
created a new kind of crime here, called emissions and smoke crime. :-(
You just gonna copy and paste this same crap in every comment section of videos about V8 combustion engines?
We get it, you live in a crap hole country with no freedoms. So, you deserve what you get when you elect corrupt Marxists. Either do something to correct your bad decisions or leave the rest of us alone.