Climbing Chat: Belaying with a Petzl Micro Traxion, worth considering..?
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- Опубликовано: 8 июн 2024
- Petzl website: www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Bel...
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Sling Mountain!!! Throwing it back to covid times. I learned so much from your videos during covid.
Same
Same here 🙂
Great to hear !
You are correct - scrambling == what we might call class 3/4 climbing in the US. Class 3 is scrambling where a rope might be carried but not necessarily used. Class 4 is more likely a rope is used but natural protection is easily found. Class 4 is common in the US for simul climbing.
Thanks for the clarification!
Another efficiency perk of belaying with the micro traxion is that you can thread the traxion straight away and have a much more ergonomic position for pulling in the slack. Then, when the climber gets pulled tight, they're already on belay. You mention your elbows, but my shoulder really struggle all summer from pulling up meters and meters of slack after every pitch.
I was glad to have it once on my harness as during a multipitch a less experienced friend didn't want to climb up some exposed, looseish rock. He quote reasonably went across to an anchor for another climb. For me to them do the pitch as intended, with the direction he was at afterwards for coming up second a grigri on the anchor and a micro on my belay loop was effectively a redirect that saved the rope going over a sharpish bit of rock that wouldn't have been an issue if the climb had been done as intended.
I always carry one if out with a novice, I've used it for rescue situations twice. Would never belay with it though! Good measured advice JB!
My pleasure!
It took me so long as a Canadian so realize you were saying 65 pounds currency, instead of a mistake of 65lbs/65 grams 🤣
Oh man, sorry!
We have 15+ pitch bolted easy slab climbing on our doorstep (Morzine) the second can move pretty quick and my elbows take a beating using a Reverso. Most of us have one of these as part of glacier rescue kit. So this is definitely a good option here.
15 pitches of people climbing fairly fast makes my elbows hurt from here!
Whoa I didn't know there was anything that big there! I only climbed around St Jean in 2020)(got a vague memory it was with you but I could be wrong. Where are the big slabs located? I did see some big slabs on a walk with a friend but I don't recall the spot.
@@barneyadams9869 if this link does not work ruclips.net/video/GGJ050kA9SM/видео.html Google Vol de Korbé / Terres Maudites (20 pitches and never harder than French 5b) or Maudit Bl'héros (10 pitches, hardest one French 5c), both at the end of the Valley de la Manche, or for tose on their way to Chamonix, 45 min drive from Morzine, above the motorway at Cluses Petit Bargy - Voie des Dalles (and loads of others), 12 pitches, hardest one 5b
@@barneyadams9869 I did respond, the post might have been rejected because I put a link in for a YT video of Le vol du Korbé - Terres Maudites, so use Google. That vol du Korbé is 20 pitches but you can cut it down to about 12 if you skip some belays and simul a little. Also, just to the right - Maudits bl'héros - 10 pitches. And for those on their way to Chamonix - or a 45 min drive from Morzine the Petit Bargy - Voie des Dalles, 12 pitches - also on YT.
Thanks sling mountain, helps a lot!
ABOUT THE KONG GIGI
when used with a single rope, like shown by you, its very good practice to clip the braking biner in a way that it can not make a 180° turn with the rope. if it does (and it could, with sudden loads and skinnier ropes), it stops working in "guide mode" like any other "reverso style" device setup for leading. so you must either clip the braking biner into the anchor biner, or use a lenght of rope from your harness to fake another rope in the 2nd slot (as if you were belay with both ropes), so it can't flip.
me and my partner use gigi (also called "tiny plate" by italians, "piastrina") for toproping follower on multipitch and for rappeling, reverso for leading... i found out using different devices helps with managing the ropes at anchor, and i always carry both anyways... its a famous combo here in northern italy for half or twin ropes... the plate has been the trusted friend of countless alpinist for decades
Yeah good point, absolutely correct. I show this in the full video and I should have done here, thanks for pointing it out.
@@JBMountainSkills your welcome, just pointing it out for people who maybe haven't already watched the dedicated video. btw all your work here on youtube is great for learning, been watching it a lot and will recommend to friends as well. cheers
Great comparison of the guide-mode options. I'll happily stick to using the Pivot.
Cheers!
I use microtx and love it for certain situations. Penty good enough for light use, even more if you test the rope on some falls.
A few years back I mocked up an anchor and pulled some rope through the gigajul, BD atc guide, and grigri. Promptly sold the gigajul. Most resistance of the three by far. Gigajul plus the extra locker needed weighs the same as the grigri. Can move the grigri straight to the harness if swapping leads. I don’t like that the Gigajul must be unthreaded, slid over to brake assisted, rethreaded if going from guide mode to brake assisted lead belay.
Yeah I wouldn’t disagree with the resistance observation. I like the Gigajul for a few reasons. I’ve used most devices over the years and whilst I do love a GriGri a lot of my work involves two ropes so it’s rare that it’s the right device for me in that context.
As a rank beginner I’ve created rules already! I see climbing has some always and never but it seems there are quite a few things get done in quite a few ways.
After seeing the sheath stripped in test vids with toothed devices and rope breaks with factor 2 at 80kg I’m happy to use the micro and nano type devices for progress capture on ascending only. I’m practicing ascending as part of my learning, not needed to do it yet but need know how in case.
For your elbows… couple of things as we age! Muscle loss increases as does our need for protein with age, to slow it up intake should be kept in check! A good intake is 1.5g per kilogram body weight, even 1.75g per kg if using muscles habitually (climbing et cetera).
You need more meat than you think (if using meat protein) as meat is only 30% protein by weight. So 80kg x 1.5g gives 120g x 3 (app) so 360g beef, chicken, pork, tuna, fish, PER DAY! This is maintenance after 45-50 yrs.
The other thing with joints and general health is inflammation.
It is known now and named as Metabolic Syndrome (increased inflammation, heart attack and stroke) and one of the 5 factors is blood sugar spikes (insulin spike as result) from excess carbohydrate intake.
As a guide try to limit your carb intake to under 100g per day (50better) and watch hydrogenated seed oils (canola et cetera) as they are pre-oxidised and contribute greatly to body inflammation. Never heat low smoke point oils (like olive oil) or roast nuts above 145degC as the oils oxidise.
If I search of more calories (climbing, gym et cetera) intake of healthy fat is remarkable for the body (fuel source and source of fat soluble vitamins) but needs to be healthy fat.. avocado, small amounts of macadamia, pistachio, grass fed ghee to cook with (high smoke point), wild salmon, grass fed beef does not have depleted Omega3 grain fed does.
Ultra processed food (UPF) is the worst thing for inflammation and a direct link to Fatty Liver Syndrome (seen in kids now).
As we age it’s becomes virtually mandatory to clean up our average western diet to climb into an age to become an elder.
Apologies for the bit of a rant… be nice to help those elbows for ya as you help so many others.
If diet already clean pre-warm up and stretch may be beneficial and if that is done maybe look at a natural suppliment and as a side note calcium and magnesium intake levels check. As blokes we tend to have those way low. Check RDI ( recommended daily intake) of those and try to keep them there by natural foods not supplimemtation.
Climbing takes care of exercise both aerobic and resistance but we need to stretch and warm up more as we age and watch diet quality more closely.
Don't apologise for the info!! Grateful :)
I do watch my macros as part of my training, it's just really hard not to get bad elbows yarding ropes through direct belays again and again.
I pretty much always climb with a micro on my harness, but I hardly ever use it. It is nice as to have in "oh shit" moments and for pulling rope up though (last time I used it was at the top of some wandery low 5th terrain with horrendous rope drag to help pull in the extra 30-40m of rope before it went tight on my partner)
If top rope belaying with a Munter hitch i will often back it up with a Prussik attached to my harness
Another thing that comes to mind when it's "actual climbing" is the follower might need some slack in the system sometimes. Traversing, going past roofs, maybe some move that's a little bit dynamic no-slack belay has it's place, but would you bring it when climbing onsight? Also, if you're climbing as a team for fun, many of us don't want to feel like we're being hauled up the route. So just because it might make sense for influencer guides, does it make sense for the recreational climber? Many thoughts! Nice video as always.
Good thoughts! That's kind of my take. Not really the right device for 99.9% of people but for a few situations it'll be really good.
a microtrax (or rollnlock) is already in a rescue kit for me, so it's not extra weight
I prefer the roll n lock
Nice video! What's your thoughts on using it for top rope solo? I've seen alot of people using this device for it as a main since it grips straight away, and using a device without teeth as a backup?
I have done it, but I'm far from a TRS expert. I think it's acceptable but it needs a chest setup to keep it ready to grip straight away. I bought a TazLov last year for TRS that I'll get round to doing a video of soon...
@@JBMountainSkills Aha! Nice! I've seen the TazLov. Quite expensive. Looking forward to that video👍
I use an atc guide since it has a little less friction than a gigajul in my experience. I use a megajul for lead belaying but I find it worth carrying the atc guide as well for the for the lower friction to save my shoulders and elbows. Have thought about a Gigi or something instead but the atc guide is also nice for rapping, has sort of low friction, and I guess has the advantage of a spare belay device in case someone drops something since it’s nicer than a munter. I have a Nano trax but have never tried belaying the second on easy pitches. Gigi could be good, sometimes I do use a munter and it is definitely smooth but I don’t love the draw backs in some situations
Definitely worth checking out the Gigi, cheap and light!
Before anything else, thank you for another good video from you.
As @jamie, i use the RollnLock from Climbing Technology, same kind of use as you talk with the Micro Traxion, although pretty uncomon for me to use it like that.
Always part of my harness, as it can be usefull as you showed or in a rescue situation, its also very useful and practical to use it combined with your anchor method (sling or rope) when at a anchor point, so you can adjust easily and safely your distance from the achor. Has all of the advantages of the Micro Traxion, plus it works with slings and doesn't have the rugged teeth, whiche prevents the risk of damaging the rope.
Have you ever tried it? Do you have an opinion about it?
Thanks for sharing! I haven't used the roll and lock, keep meaning to.
What's your set up for top rope solo?
Try the grivel atc 30 euros and it is fantastic
Will have a look :)
I wonder why the concern of foreign objects getting between the teeth and the rope doesn't apply in this case. It certainly prevents many from trusting a single Traxion for TRS.
I guess it's easier to keep an eye on it compared to TRS.
There has been a recent article from the Bergundsteigen magazine(from the european alpine clubs, making safety research) about belaying with the micro-trax, just in case someone wants to check it out
I'll try and find it!
Cavers use this (or its bigger brother/s) loads ;)
I mean, that’s not really selling it to us above grounders 😂
@@JBMountainSkills lol
Similar to tiblock
first?
From what I’ve seen in testing, both teeth and no teeth rip the rope apart with similar forces
We only use it for emergencies on glaciers. The Edelrid Spoc is slightly lighter with a nice little pull wire for those who are gram counting. Great vid.
Cheers!
What's your set up for top rope solo?
Lov2 now.
@JBMountainSkills cool, I've just picked up one a month or so ago, I haven't had a chance to try it though. Do you use it with a secondary device?