EDELRID PINCH | Assisted Braking Belay Device | Unboxing - Thoughts - Review
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- Опубликовано: 28 июн 2024
- The new Edelrid Pinch is here, an assisted braking belay device! Should you buy the Edelrid Pinch? Let me geek out with you on the new Edelrid Pinch.
Chapters:
0:00 Introduction
0:07 Disclaimer
0:47 Unboxing | Front - Rope Compatibility
1:10 Unboxing | Back - Functionality
1:45 Unboxing | Side - EN 15151-1 Certification
1:46 Unboxing | Contents - Correction Notice
2:02 Unboxing | Screw to Disable Anti-Panic Feature
2:14 PINCH | Opening Push Button, Main Body
2:32 PINCH | Front Friction Grooves
2:54 PINCH | Releasing Lever
3:18 DISCUSSION #1 | Opening Push Button and Safety
4:43 DISCUSSION #2 | Lead Belaying Ropes
5:01 DISCUSSION #2 | Lead Belaying Technique
5:15 DISCUSSION #2 | Lead Belaying Performance
5:12 DISCUSSION #2 | 9.2-9.4mm Ropes
5:45 DISCUSSION #2 | Smooth Slick Ropes Are Best in 9.4-9.8mm
6:10 DISCUSSION #2 | Comparing the Lifeguard and Grigri
6:44 DISCUSSION #3 | Multi-Pitch Belaying
7:42 DISCUSSION #4 | Abseiling/Rappelling
8:05 DISCUSSION #4 | AMAZING Performance
8:52 A rambling attempt at humour
9:37 DISCUSSION #5 | Weight
10:20 FINAL THOUGHTS
11:00 Outro
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Background music:
shandr - Drifting Away (Composer: Ryan Shand)
shandr - Calling (Composer: Ryan Shand)
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This was the first video where I saw how to properly put on the pinch! Really helped me with my doubts. Cheers mate
Thank you!
Glad it had useful information for you.
The grigri is officially sanctioned for top belaying as well-that's not so unusual. The unique thing about the Pinch when it comes to multi-pitch climbing is that Edelrid officially supports using the pinch for fixed point lead belaying directly off the anchor. It doesn't look like that's stated on the back of the box there, but it is in the user instructions and in Edelrid's video on multi-pitching with the Pinch. I'm pretty excited to pick one up specifically for that functionality. I'm a big fan of direct lead belays, but having to use a munter or a tube always makes me a little nervous about the small possibility of losing control due to rockfall or whatnot.
This is the device I have been looking forward to for a long time. Very useful information. Thank you for sharing！
Thank you!
The Pinch is such a well-built device!
Great video! Lots of useful information. Hasn't helped me make my decision but that's just because there are so many good options...
Thank you!
Totally agree with you. If money was no object, this would be a no-brainer. But if it’s going to be your primary belay device, then more thought is needed.
Nice video. I had a chance to try the Pinch for one indoor route. I did find it easier than the GriGri to pay out slack without resorting to blocking the cam. With the GriGri, I block the cam 100% of the time, although I feel this is mainly related to the rope being fat, dirty, fuzzy or in humid conditions when the rope swells a little.
Thank you!
I definitely agree with you. When we used anything greater than 9.4mm, the sheath quality affected payout dramatically. Pilling, dry treatment and especially rope swell from our humidity being winter right now saw a great variance in Pinch performance between our selection of “modern” ropes.
It seems the certification for EN 12841-C (descender) only came out after the first batch was produced,
Edelrid's website and RUclips still promote the Pinch as a certified device for rope positioning and descending.
I had a chat to my retailer and you are right.
The Pinch did not receive certification for EN 12841-C in time for the initial batch. Nothing to do with design, construction or build quality; just a timing issue. The following batch is expected to be fully certified.
The real question is whether the initial batch will retrospectively get EN12841-C. I’m not fully versed on how the system works, but I know my purchase and a lot of others here bought-in with the expectation of being able to use it for rope access work.
In any case, I’ll keep my commentary in the video as is. I’ll submit a pinned comment once I get word from my retailer or the distributor on what the official word from Edelrid is down the line.
Thanks for checking out the video and your comment mate!
@@IanSendsItthey replied me on their video about the pinch use in professional settings and they expect Q3 2024 to have a batch already certified and engraved
Thanks from the UK first review I’ve seen on this device. Being left handed I’ve struggled with the GriGri any thoughts on how this works for a south paw as there are a few of us about. I am currently using an Edlerid Giga Jul as my primary device
Thanks for checking out my review from across the pond!
I’m right-hand dominant for context.
I’ve got experience with using the BD Pilot and Edelrid Mega Jul, especially doing some left-handed belaying here and there when we’re not cranking hard.
We gave the Pinch, GriGri and Lifeguard a bash tonight in the gym belaying left-handed.
From our collective experience, we feel that the Pinch works well for lefties.
Without a lip like the Grigri (so similar construction to a Lifeguard), your hand curls the rope over and your index finger doesn’t try to find the lip to butt up against. Naturally you’ll just go to push the back of the cam; a gentle push allows you to pull rope easy, left and right handed.
We tried direct connecting, and connecting with a carabiner, to our belay loop. Direct connecting and defeating the cam, especially left-handed worked amazing because the Pinch is closer to your body and doesn’t flop about.
It would be good if you could try it in a shop because for lefties, the rope is likely to run over the lever rather than metal when compared to the right side.
Using a skinny 9.2mm, or have a 9.4-9.6mm with a good dry treatment sheath, you can tube-style it easily, which eliminates a reliance on defeating the cam often.
Hope that’s helpful to you. Nothing beats being hand-on with it, so hopefully you have gear shops that will let you try one out.
@@IanSendsIt Cheers again for your response and even trying it out left-handed Kudos for that. We have a good gear shop not to far away and as soon as I get a chance I will give it a try out 😀
5:00 why is the device connected with a carabiner?
No particular reason.
We had a gym session along with other devices, so we used the Pinch with a carabiner for the demonstration.