And to add to this, if for some reason this isn't an option for you and you insist on doing it, make sure the locking carabiners are upside down to the gate screws downwards, so that hopefully the vibrations won't open the screw as easily
It's very cool to see someone going old-school. ;) Folks have been LRSoloing since the dawn of roped climbing. with this exact technique. Interestingly, this new generation believes this is a new concept created out of thin air! I wonder what that says. History is forgotten, nothing is remembered, if it's not on video.
For those who are convinced they need a Silent partner; It is one of, if not the most expensive single piece of gear you can buy these days so scams are prevalent. Be careful; don't be dumb.
37:47 because of the redirect/pulley to the haul bag it would INCREASE the force on the anchor. It would decrease the force on you but increase the force on the anchor more than the weight of the bag alone- again due to the pulley/redirect effect. Please let me know if I'm wrong.
I think I may have explained it poorly. I believe having the haul bag attached to the rope 5’ from the anchor and hanging 5’ below the anchor creates a situation where the bag absorbs most of the energy in a fall. The rope would not feed back through the anchor. So the bag would raise 10’ or 5’ above the anchor before running out of slack. Maybe I am wrong. I have never used this method but I know people have used it. I believe the channel “Eric adventure” “spaceshot aid climb solo” used this method.
Great information. I’ve used the Munter hitch system before on the anchor. It seemed to work well but not too sure it was worth the effort, at least for the route I was on.
@@PitsToPeaks took like a 5’ fall with about 20’ in the system. It seemed like the Munter caught it all and then gradually started letting out the slack.
Hey man, just saw this and great video! I wanted to ask (and sorry if you addressed this before) what size rope do you use with your grigri? I went LRS with a dual 9.9 and found myself short roping and getting jammed up pretty frequently. Wondering if I need to use a 9.2 or even a 8.9, though the trade off is that the grigri might slip more easily
Hey mate, I love your educational videos! What's the best way to lead a traversing pitch when mid-way through a multipitch? Is there a better way to traverse down to your anchor other than attaching your belay loop to the top-rope side ?
Either back climb it aid or free using a gri gri. Or you can have a second rope that you tag up that is fixed to the belay below you. Lower down as far as you feel like you need to off the end of the pitch than jug up the tag line. You may need to stay on the original rope while you jug up the tag line and feed slack through the lead line every once in a while. I’m sure there are better methods but that is what I did in my LRS rowins route video.
Why everyone use Petzl Micro Traxion for cache loops? What you can say about any other similar devices, like CT Roll n lock and so on? Can any such device be considered approximately the same it therms of management cache loops or does only Micro Traxion have some important non-obvious features? And thanks for the video!
I believe the clove will slip the least of all the devices. You can use it on an easy route but you will be spending a lot of time manually feeding rope through.
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Consider using auto locking carabiners for anchor systems as the constant vibrations being applied can undo screwgate carabiners.
And to add to this, if for some reason this isn't an option for you and you insist on doing it, make sure the locking carabiners are upside down to the gate screws downwards, so that hopefully the vibrations won't open the screw as easily
Excellent.... Thank you Daniel.
thank you for putting this together man. you are a legend
Happy to help. I'm planning on a LRS multipich next.
Very comprehensive video bro. I can tell you put alot of time into making this for us. Thank you for all your hard work.
It's very cool to see someone going old-school. ;) Folks have been LRSoloing since the dawn of roped climbing. with this exact technique. Interestingly, this new generation believes this is a new concept created out of thin air! I wonder what that says. History is forgotten, nothing is remembered, if it's not on video.
Hard to find quality LRS vids, definitely helps refine the system. Thanks!
Great video, a lot of great info and really liked how you always emphasized safety first end redundancy with the anchor.
For those who are convinced they need a Silent partner; It is one of, if not the most expensive single piece of gear you can buy these days so scams are prevalent. Be careful; don't be dumb.
super useful video appreciate all the varieties of information, allows me to see different ways to do things
this is the best LRS video I have seen!
Very thorough! Excellent Video!
Thank you so much for this precious knowledge ❤
Wow, so complete, thank you!!
37:47 because of the redirect/pulley to the haul bag it would INCREASE the force on the anchor. It would decrease the force on you but increase the force on the anchor more than the weight of the bag alone- again due to the pulley/redirect effect.
Please let me know if I'm wrong.
I think I may have explained it poorly. I believe having the haul bag attached to the rope 5’ from the anchor and hanging 5’ below the anchor creates a situation where the bag absorbs most of the energy in a fall. The rope would not feed back through the anchor. So the bag would raise 10’ or 5’ above the anchor before running out of slack. Maybe I am wrong. I have never used this method but I know people have used it. I believe the channel “Eric adventure” “spaceshot aid climb solo” used this method.
Great information. I’ve used the Munter hitch system before on the anchor. It seemed to work well but not too sure it was worth the effort, at least for the route I was on.
Did you fall on it?
@@PitsToPeaks took like a 5’ fall with about 20’ in the system. It seemed like the Munter caught it all and then gradually started letting out the slack.
Awesome video! Thanks a lot 🙏
Hey man, just saw this and great video! I wanted to ask (and sorry if you addressed this before) what size rope do you use with your grigri? I went LRS with a dual 9.9 and found myself short roping and getting jammed up pretty frequently. Wondering if I need to use a 9.2 or even a 8.9, though the trade off is that the grigri might slip more easily
I use a mammut 9.5 crag classic. It feeds alright. I wouldn’t want anything thicker on the gg.
Legend! Great vid! 👌 sub’d
Hey mate, I love your educational videos! What's the best way to lead a traversing pitch when mid-way through a multipitch?
Is there a better way to traverse down to your anchor other than attaching your belay loop to the top-rope side ?
Either back climb it aid or free using a gri gri. Or you can have a second rope that you tag up that is fixed to the belay below you. Lower down as far as you feel like you need to off the end of the pitch than jug up the tag line. You may need to stay on the original rope while you jug up the tag line and feed slack through the lead line every once in a while. I’m sure there are better methods but that is what I did in my LRS rowins route video.
Why everyone use Petzl Micro Traxion for cache loops? What you can say about any other similar devices, like CT Roll n lock and so on? Can any such device be considered approximately the same it therms of management cache loops or does only Micro Traxion have some important non-obvious features? And thanks for the video!
No reason to use the micro traction instead of something like the edelrid spoc. As long as it feeds rope smoothly and effortlessly it doesn’t matter.
Could you use the running clove on a super easy multi? If you have a back up and take a small fall is the clove likely to cinch or prone to not catch?
I believe the clove will slip the least of all the devices. You can use it on an easy route but you will be spending a lot of time manually feeding rope through.
What wall/crag is this?
Brick wall, currahee mountain, Georgia