Blackbird cam chain tensioner reconditioning
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- Опубликовано: 29 окт 2022
- A fix to the Honda Blackbird automatic cam chain tensioner that tends to get stuck resulting in a noisy engine. The noise is often said to sound like a bag of marbles on the RHS of the engine.
Unfortunately replacing the part with a new one sometimes does not last very long due to the manufacturing issues discussed in the video. Some of the CCT's are better than others and depends on where they are made.
Machine pin/dowel size = 2X12mm 
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Excellent video, well done.
Thank you for your excellent video. I'll be trying this when the time comes to service the cct.
Thanks, let me know how it works!
You said the length of the roll pin but not the diameter. Very nice video!
Sorry about that. If i remember correctly, it was 3mm...
Most excellent.
Thanks for the feedback. it is much appreciated!
I have an '01. OEM CCTs are a weak link. An APE HT900-PRO Manual CCT fixed that problem once and for all
I've heard of many people getting good results with a manual CCT. Personally I would only install a manual chain tensioner if I can check the chain tension, which on the blackbird needs to be done with the cover completely removed. If its set incorrectly the plastic pads will wear very quickly... The weak link is the manufacturing, not the design, which can be fixed relatively easy.
A previous owner left an unserviceable CCT in for so long that the chain stretched to the point that a new OEM CCT wouldn't take up the slack. I think in my case a bench overhaul of the OEM unit wouldn't suffice. Short of a tear down and timing chain replacement this seemed a reliable repair to allow deference of a much bigger job. I do intend on replacing the chain as it's stretched so much that my cam timing is likely advanced at this point. The worst part of owning a used BB is finding the hidden wear that you get from that one owner that always rid it hard and put it away wet
That's not great, sorry to hear. Lucky these bikes can take incredible punishment and still get you home time and time again. No comment on packing the bike away wet, I can't believe people do that!@@allandrake4426
Great work thanks. Although having replaced two of these in 20K miles (and being an engineer) I'm wondering what the actual issue is with these exactly. Having heard that they had been upgraded (to the two green dot version) I always assumed the problem was the spring quality/strength and the wobbling tip was to allow some flex in the whole arrangement, but from your video that would seem not to be the case... I suppose the the chain follower blade could be worn....that's a job I don't fancy at all... cheers
Hi Spandon, when mine started giving issues I tried to understand the root cause (similar situation to you, replaced two in short intervals). If you do a free body diagram and see how lateral forces change the vector diagram for a discrete section of the lead screw it becomes clear that this will lock or even reverse under certain conditions. The first thing I decided to fix was the poor fits at the tip which was just manufacturing issues, and anything else that would cause excessive lateral movement. I did check the springs between the single and two green dot versions and they where the same, but I think the pretension was different. Fundamentally, changing the pretension of the spring improves the free body diagram, which is likely what Honda did to correct the issue without changing any tooling. I would look at increasing the pretension before replacing the cam chain. There's actually a few other things that can be done, but these are the easiest options...
@@Lukers_tinkering Thanks for the considered reply. I'm going to have a look at my 'spare' unit asap. All the best.
Excellent video.
Did you put piston 1 in tdc?
Thanks Eamonn.
No. You only need to do that if you removing the cam chain. Taking out the cct won't change the timing unless you turn the engine and the chain jumps a tooth. Shouldn't even need to open the timing cover. Btw have a look at some of the other bb videos and let me know what you think!
I have X-11 (which has the same engine) and hear a slight rattle at 5000rpms. Since I don't have a lathe or any tools like it I think it will be safer for me to just order a whole part and install it. I don't think I can order just the new and improved innards of the cct..
I suggest trying the following before you order a new part. Check the split pin is not rounded like in the video, if it is then this can be easily changed. Also what helps is to add one or two turns to the torsion spring. This will not add much force to the cam guides but will help to keep the CCT screw from backing off. These are easy things to try before spending money on a new part. BTW CCT's in all Honda's are notorious for these issues. Let me know how it goes!
I have finally taken the CCT off the bike. The pin is rounded slightly and the "head" has little movement. Although I'm not sure where would I get a new pin for the CCT, any ideas?
@@pekupa7119 Any fasteners or hardware shop should stock them, just take the sample with. They have many names so you would need to show them what you talking about. We call them machine dowels here.
Do you know any local South African shops that sell aftermarket CCTs and Rectifiers? Thanks
None that I would recommend. I generally import what I need. I've had bad experiences with local suppliers.
@@Lukers_tinkering I see. I'm looking at getting a bird.. anything I should look out for in particular for a bike of this age?
@@officialbuggutz the normal things really. Corrosion and sun damage is a bad sign that the bike has spent its life outdoors. Check for the fi light when breaking or indicating, that's a wiring loom that needs fixing (easy). If the bike has stood for a while the tank could have rusted and the fuel system could give issues. A rattle when idling and dropoff when just below operating temperature is a sign of a stuck injector etc... I would change the fuel filter and in tank lines as well as the pressure regulator if you going for fi. Great bikes though! Riding position isn't great standard but again easy to fix...
@@Lukers_tinkering thanks for the info! I got one final question, carb or FI? I know you need a carb sync machine/mechanic but I've heard it's not too often you need to do one... but hp figures are very similar and both variants seem solidly reliable... so what's the ultimate in your view? Thanks for the info 🤙
@@officialbuggutz ah that's your preference. Both are balanced but it's unlikely you'll need to mess with that. It very seldom is a problem on these bikes. Having said that I used to balance my 750 hurricane with some clear 4mm aquarium tube. Way more accurate than a gauge. I have the fi and the fuel system is simpler. I took my injectors off and cleaned them in less than an hour a few months back. Can't do that with carbs. Really doesn't matter which one you go for, both are bullet proof!
Hi what size is the split pin
2X12mm I added the size to the description....