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Love it, great to see someone doing things a different way.

Subscribed. Looking forward to seeing how you tackle casting. I was shown a method sometime ago that has worked well for me but i cant find a reference to it anywhere. I am interested to see how it compares to the method you use.

Can't wait to see you in action!

Absolutely chuffed to see how this turns out :)

Yep, I'm in. I'm always on the lookout for different ways of doing things and I'm sure I won't be disappointed..

I'm really looking forward to this series!

Looks like an interesting video series. I can’t wait for the next instalment!

Boring

It will be interesting to see how yours turns out. There is a 4" one knocking about somewhere that I saw photos of and Hughes gave it several pages in his book on traction engines. Another one in this mag www.model-engineer.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/4/documents/wome-3-pt3.pdf

Very interesting, that EB Wilson connection- Jenny Lind is my favourite early loco. Looking forward to this series very much.

Hi Liker. Are you also running this model in print form. Looking forward to to the build and I do hope there may be a few live chat moments along the journey

Thank you for this series and for pointing me to the Ballarat articles, I'll be ordering the magazines in a minute. I hope you'll do a video about boiler design in your new series. Because that's still something of a black art to me.

Funny, it actually was your first article on stainless boilers that made me subscribe to ME. And how I found your channel.

Immediately interested. Was thinking of building one of those English brand models but for the cost. Very much looking forward to this series.

Great. Looking forward to this project

looking forward to watching, hopefully pickup some new knowledge

brilliant and here here on everything you said

Looking forward to this series

Oh this is great insight and proper finding solutions from an engineering point of view! Amazing!

Thanks for a well presented video.

Se bietjie vir my is dit die mooite werk om so hobbie draaibank te koop. Ek wil maar net vir my dope draai dat ek dit kan herlasi

Is your harley a belt drive model, if so it might be an idea to occasionally take out and lubricate the swinging arm pin, assuming your bike has one. I will explain, as the belt is endless the swinging arm needs to be removed to fit a new one when it breaks. I knew a chap who got charged £1400 to replace his belt because the dealer had to cut the swinging arm out, and that price was 20 odd years ago. What makes it even worse was that the guy was a friend of the dealers son, who was running the business at the time, and they were on a run together when the belt broke. I have seen belts get punctured by stones that get caught between belt and "sprocket" , just a thing to look out for, which is difficult as the Harley's don't come with centre stands. I just reminded myself of another stone being flung up on a BMW bike which caused a problem but that is for another time.😂

love your work and your joy of riding and getting the response you were after

What a great video! These are skills I have wanted to learn for a long time and to watch you do it makes me want to even more. On the hunt for a small combo lathe/ mill/drill press now. Thank you for this video!

give-up on the harley mate, it's a bike for gay people.

one aspect of carbs that is sorely overlooked is the emulsion tubes... and i have to say, i never understood them until opening a book from 1912 that mentions "air compensation valves" with edwardian cars... and suddenly it clicked. air flow is based on RPM, yet the suction produced by the venturi is a log curve... wasnt an issue when engines just sat there and were tuned to drive a chaff cutter or pump... but as soon as they started throwing them in vehicles with varying loads, RPM, and throttle settings, the problem reared its head. if you get hold of a pipsqueak 50, so you can hold WOT without killing yourself, and start messing around by blocking off various holes (or adding new ones?) it becomes clear whats happening. they leak air in to compensate for the varying suction at different engine speeds on the same throttle position. otherwise they just keep getting richer and richer as RPM builds. back in the old days, they just threw a spring loaded "air leak" in the manifold after the carb. on that note, theres two types. most cars use an air bleed jet, (webers spring to mind) whereas most motorbike carbs are running a "pitot tube" affair... one of the holes in the mouth of the carb... ones the choke circuit (if its a plunger type), ones the pilot circuit (which is a small carburettor in itself), and the last one is the air jet come pitot tube. very little information on emulsion tubes. invariably, those flat spots you cant quite get rid of are due to the arrangement of holes... its a whole new level of complexity. its also the main difference between a carb intended for two strokes versus four strokes. throw in CV carbs and things really start getting confusing... the whole point of them is to perform much the same thing. add more cylinders, throw in some exhaust valves like the yamaha "EXUP" system... and at some point you wind up under the kitchen table gibbering in fear.

great to see someone who "thinks" ............its getting pretty rare these days.

one mistake in your thoughts,you never get your harley running even on both cylinders,why?the front cylinders ignites,than you got315 degrees turning,than the real cylinder ignites,and you got 405 degrees to the next ignition,the additional time lets the airfuel mixture more seperate at the walls,so that the front cylinder runs leaner,that the reason that the rear spark runs richer,what you would never expect,because this cyl runs hotter,so expecting it lean,but,never touch your running engine,only put a mikuni 42 on it,adjust it perfect,and you got a different bike,1third more power,unbeleavable

Very nice colouring on the plugs (considering it's carbed); you've done an excellent job. I'm now retired but because carb tuning is a dying art, I keep getting pestered by people who want their bikes to run correctly. Since most H.D.s are modified, the carburetion is poor, and very few bike mechanics (now) are experienced at obtaining good carburetion. Also people don't realise how much time it takes to get jetting spot-on (plug chops etc.). Thank goodness for injection.

Great info. Any more details on the reamer? I slowed down video but could quite understand the bevel cutting edge. Is it a simple d bit style with bevel ground down to 1/2 way on one side? This was usefull ruclips.net/video/5rwl-e_KI4U/видео.htmlsi=kFilexXurDxVkA76 Cheers Jeff

Goeie werk meneer.

Thinking of Harleys running rich, I used to transport bikes for the local Harley dealer and was sent out to collect a new one the owner had literally just bought. The problem was fuel leaking from the carb, the dealer wanted the bike back but the owner was expecting it to be fixed and as they say the customer is always right, so I looked for the problem. Turned out to be a tiny crescent shaped piece of fuel pipe stuck in the float needle jet stopping it sealing. It must have been a bit sliced off when the fuel pipe was fitted to the carb. Result, owner happy.

I have a sight-glass spark plug which I use to check the fuel to air ratio. The colour of the flame indicates whether it's too rich or too lean. Air cooled engines should run slightly richer than water cooled engines as it helps the engine to run a bit cooler.

Very interesting. Nice video. Dankbaar

I have just discovered your channel. This video is very interesting. I see you are also from ZA.

Thank You SO MUCH for this clear and very informative video. I use a Chinese Sieg lathe normally and have just got boss of that but on my Peatol / Taig Micro lathe I was getting chatter marks even though the tool I had ground seemed to cut well. Then I tried t strip of copper cut from a pipe and annealed and placed under the tool. Using all the same speeds and feeds and it was like a different machine, suddenly everything has come right Brilliant!

Verry interresting video series !! I would mension that we are, and have been, using stainless steel boiler in europe (Belgium in my case) for a long time now, more than 20 years. And it is also the case for the "larger" boiler (12:44) we have a good quantity of them between 20l and 25l, and it is working great. To me, no need to swich back to steel ? Or maybe am I missing someting/ some information?

Obi1 on the lathe. Many thanks and hats off. If I had an award, you'd get it. MVYTuber

a cutting tool that is set a bit low can also create chatter.

Ok, so your editing is next level amazing! For Real!! I am watching your videos just soaking it up!! Great stuff!!

Awesome video. Great to hear your tips and tricks. Always something to learn. I am not a fan of those e-stop flap buttons but its better than nothing

I hope that you know just how much you have help me. Being brand new to using a lathe, all of this has help sssoooo much. I purchased a used lathe, but now I can go thru it and do a good job cleaning it before I use it. I am missing a wipe on it and I have not found a place to buy a new piece of felt yet. I don't know if I can just use any kind of felt or if it is special. I'm also 73 years young and just want to learn how to do more things.

NIce... Honestly if you told me that this Adendorff chinesium lathe is 15 years old i wouldn't believe you either, but clearly you look after your equipment well.

Cutting at 25 RPM can work sometimes too.

The second derivative of position with respect to time is acceleration. The third derivative of position with respect to time is called 'jerk'. I heard the hubble telescope had specifications up to the seventh derivative. Now I feel like now I know why!

Thankyou sir you solve my problem.❤ Great love you from India Delhi

For the first time the right explanation of "chatter". The problem has an analogy with audio. Resonant Frequency (and it's harmonics), Damping, (external and internal) , Stiffnes, Mass, etc,etc, are items wich are the basic items when talking about acoustics and UNWANTED Frequencies (especially Loudspeaker Engineering). And chatter is an unwanted mechanical frequency. These unwanted frequencies can be mastered with the solutions mentioned in the video. The solutions are the same for audio . All these solutions (and more) are also known by audio professionals such as audioengineers and speaker builders .

The only way i really got away from chatter is changing the cutting geometry by stop thinking as it digging Into the part but running towards the head stock as you cut.. i paid too much attention to sharpening the edge towards the part. When i started grinding the tool so it cut towards the headstock i helped the chatter a lot even with tiny cuts i now get no chatter.

Great video.

Great video, I would like to see how you make the steam valve body. Plse do us a video on that.