Myth Exposed..."You Can't Sand Metallics or Pearls!" WATCH ME...
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- There has been this age old myth in the modeling community about sanding metallics and pearls. "You can't sand metallics/pearls because you flatten the metal flake/pearl and it loses all of it's brilliance." BULL$&!#...Every piece that comes out of my shop has its paint job wet-sanded, including metallics and pearls, and I have never noticed a loss of brilliance or the ability of the metal flake/pearl to dance the light. I've taken pictures of pieces I've done and showed people who debated this with me and still they argue the above myth...this is the only way I know of how to prove once and for all. Both of the pieces you're about to watch me air-brush a clear-coat on are a metallic paint job (green) and a pearl (red hood), and both have been wet-sanded; watch the so called "lost brilliance and flattened metal flake" come back to life.
Once again you prove what you say is correct. Love the photo's at the end. Speaks volumes! Thanks Donn for what you are trying to teach us. I'm 59 and still love to learn.
When I wet sanded a metallic 1500 or 2000 to fix an error, silver came through and the color was lost. My theory was when I sprayed, the metal flakes settled, and I was sanding away the color. That may or may not be correct, but I think my error is in how I spray on the base coat. Because of some primer dusting issues, and how I see full size cars painted, I was getting closer, maybe 4", and laying down a wet coat in one pass. I might make two or max three passes (I always thought a "coat" was fully painted and fully or partially dried) during a paint session on any given spot. By contrast, he's much further away, moving both airbrush and target over and over again with 15 - 20 passes per session. I'll need to try that.
Can’t argue with results. And since it’s just a model car and not a 1:1 car, who cares if it affects the paint in some way later!!! 🤦🏼♂️
It was stunning to watch it come back to life, even the bad spots on that green hood!!! Well done and thanks for sharing your vast knowledge.
It does not affect the paint at a later time.
It's a NO BRAINER! What's wrong with people!
Thanks for putting out the facts!!! We wet sand metallic and pearls and then shoot 2K ultra high gloss on 50K movie RC aircraft every day and you see our work in Movies and TV shows worldwide.
Great Video.
it amazes me the amount of varnish coming out of that airbrush and you still get a light coat.
Because the clear or what ever liquid is being busted up into such small pieces with the air.
Never doubted you Donn, the proof is in the finish and the more information the better. Thanks for all you do. Cheers
I wouldn't have believed it if I had not seen this demonstration. I'm going to give it a try
Great vid Donn! I've always found it funny when people say not to wet sand metallics and pearls, guaranteed half of them have never actually tried it, they're just going off what some self proclaimed expert "with 25 years of experience" says. Take care old man!
Ok here's a simple reason why sanding a metallic or pearl single stage isn't the ideal thing to do.
The metallics and pearls are just basically little tiny specks of metal or plastic that are suspended throughout the binders tints pigments of the paint so just like when you sand out a spect of trash as you're sanding through the spec of trash it starts to change and those little metal or plastic Flex of metallic get sanded as well. So a single stage paint is basically a basecoat and clearcoat all mixed into one so just like with a candy the single stage has pigment color mixed in to it like as if you were to mix in a color into clear coat and if you've ever sanded a candy you will know that it gets lighter and lighter the thinner you make it. That single stage has those pigments above the top layer of metallics and pearls and that tints the light coming in to the paint to be reflected off of the metallics and pearls and when you sand off that top layer you expose the metallics and Pearls directly to the light without being tinted by the color first so now you have these bright silver or scratched pieces of metallic in your paint when the paint was designed to have a colored metallic or Pearl and you can see evidence of this in Don's video if you look at the green Hood that he cleared over you will notice that in the middle of the large areas the paint seems to have a silvery metallic effect where towards the inside edges you can see that it's darker Green in color and that is because those inside edges did not get sanded the same amount that the middle did there was more material removed from the surface in the middle than there was at the edges. So like I said it's not that you can't sand them it's just not the ideal situation. I hope my 3 in the morning explanation helps anybody to understand why thank you all.
Very good brother i was taught the same as you have described here appericate you.
I know I am late to the party commenting but I just tried an experiment. I agree that those sanded areas show darker after spraying clear. Having said that I wet sanded a huge dust particle out with 1500 grit sandpaper. I did not sand the entire panel. After that I polished the sanded area with Meguiars Scratch X 2.0. There were NO difference between the sanded area and the surrounding area. Polishing was the trick. Then cleared after. Even so the polishing is what blended the darker and lighter areas. So yes, you can 100% wet sand metallics if you polish it out after you sand without any difference what so ever. I am a perfectionist and wouldn't say it works if it did not.
Wait, this is a single stage metallic? The type with clear already mixed into it? I was about to sand my 2 stage metallics before spraying the clear. Does this demonstration still apply in my case or should I skip sanding and just spray the clear? And how well will the clear hold without sanding? The metallic coats have been sitting there curing for a good part of a month already. (FYI, I'm painting a bike frame and not little toy models)
@@myscreen2urs Your paint should hold well without clear of you wanted to skip it. I would not since it is on a bike and being ridden kicking up rocks and debris off the wheels. These are Testors enamels we are spraying on model cars. You can wet sand single stage metallics and two stage if you are careful and polish it out, then clear. I would clear 3 coats if I were you and wet sand then if I were painting a bike. If you have an orange peel effect you want to smooth out I would clear and wet sand that. If it were a large piece of debris/particle that would not cover well even with multiple clear coats I would sand that out and spray new paint over the area then clear and again wet sand the clear if it wasn't smooth enough to my liking.
@@toddzehr203 I meant, skip the sanding, not the clear coat. I think you answered my concern. So, you're saying, if I'm careful, I can still sand the metallics before adding my clear coat. What grit should I use in this case? Should I stick with the recommended 400 for the clear coat to hold onto or should I opt for something a little less aggressive like 600 or even 800?
I tried to sand my metallic paint with clear coat on top. It's like i'm chasing my tail, it'll get shiny then dull. Then once that part i've sanded is dull it'll leave a outline around that sand mark which is now shiny!
Compelling!!! I'm new to the game myself & was also told that U can't wetsand Metallic or Pearl finishes as well.😡
..(so not wanting to commit this now-Debunked Sin) but still having trash in my White Pearl finish that had to come oyt....I thought to myself 🤔 "Well no one said anything about Polishing it out"... So I went several rounds of "Mequire's Scratch X 2.0 and that took care of the trash... But I still needed to Clear coat... So I washed it very well & then shot the Clear & it came out FLAWLESS 👍 (but a bit of wetsanding would sure would have saved me a bunch of time-So I much rather use your "NOW PROVEN" Method!!!) So THANK U VERY MUCH SIR🙏🙏🙏 Excellent info as always🙌🙌👏👏
☯️ZenModeling☯️
Another great video Old Man. Glad to see the new series coming out on the Patreon channel too.
Should I used 800 to sand metallic and than clear coat. I’m trying to blend a repair but when it dry it look like a wet circle around the repair!! I try to sand it with 1500 grit but it didn’t work. Is there any tricks to blend some what close or barely noticeable with the rest of the original paint.
People make it seem like it's rocket science,and it's not
Love your videos an your PA accent as well. You don't mess around or mince words. I love that.
Link to the DVD s would be cool.
Thank you for the great lesson Mr Yost, My paintwork has gotten a lot better because of your videos. Subbed your channel.
I just am thankful you have these videos
That was cool. Thank you for demonstrating.
Broken records are sometimes a good thing. Good video...thanks for sharing...
probably the only real change to the finish would be the new edges that appear when the metal flakes are resurfaced by the light sanding. So instead of all square flakes you might have a few beveled triangles on the surface of the metallic base coat.
He is exactly right and what do u think car dealers do repaint a car to sell it no the rub it back and put clear over it that’s where your shine and restoration comes from it’s the clear the paint is just your colours nice job mate 👍
God Bless You, ..Because I got interrupted,, My grand kids here, mom had to leave, had the base coat, and pearl coat.. ready to clear coat,,after 20 minutes ,,
then Stopped,, interrupted, Dang... to clear coat now I needed to sand perl then Repaint pearl.. all advice, said no way.. will have to repaint pearl before base coat...... have to wait until tomorrow to clear coat,,, NOW I KOW I CAN, WET sand dry then clear coat, I know its better,, to bond the clear, to base pearl coat... Thank you , at least i will try...
your painting is awesome, I have your dvd and have learned allot. I do have a question. you say you strip your bodies with brake fluid. is there a certain kind and does it work on only modern paints. I have some old glue bombs that I picked up. I used fluid from walmart and put in body, frame and interior. they have been it for days and nothing.
fred FESTER Fred , I use DOT 3 brake fluid . As for what you're up against ? You have my sympathy. They were painted with a product that was designed to stick and last back in the day . I had old bodies that were painted back in the '70's that sat in the brake fluid for over a year that it barely touched . I would try Original Easy Off oven cleaner . It's going to become a labor of love , you'll have to scrub with a stiff toothbrush and repeatedly spray the body down and scrub again . Eventually, it will come off ....
Keep up the good work sir a lot of people do not understand that the clear will bring it all back out
is that a number 3 tip you're using? What pressure? Love your educational videos!
Robert Buckner. Paasche # 5 head and needle assembly . 32 psi
Great video Old Man. I'll be eagerly awaiting the next video on patreon
Mate from Australia and I bought the same gun you advised bit more expensive here but I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind if it’s not to much trouble if you could show how you clean your gun and pots next time you spray , I would love to get your dvds in respect to support you for your time you share helping us on RUclips if you could tell myself that to if possible thank you so very much I appreciate your time to read this thNk you .kevin 😊🇦🇺
Please consider investing in a lavalier microphone. It can be hard to hear you sometimes.
I know when I wet sanded my blue metallic the base coat turned to a silver color. I am not in a dust free environment cold not get it right so now in the process of stripping the whole car down and repainting a solid color with no metallic .
What manufacture base coat did you use?
I remember watching my uncle in his auto body shop as a kid , Your schooling these younger ones with old school paint jobs that last!! Now if they would just actually listen. I've relearned alot I forgot with your videos thank you.
Thanks for doing this vid!!! This has been something I have wanted to try myself. Results are results!
Great videos old man, thanks for all the knowledge. You’re a bloody legend 🍻
I just saw this particular video, I haven't seen any of your others so you may have answered this a million times.. I just got finished spray painting a C3PO life size head prop with Krylon metallic gold foil spray paint. I did about seven light coats, he is currently sitting and drying.. my question is should I take any more further steps after he is fully cured? Wet sand? Wipe down with a micro fiber cloth? What would you suggest? Thank you for your time sir
Thank you very much for this video, do you think this only applies to model paint or do you think it could apply to automotive paint?
So never sand metallics on basecoat only. What is the best setting for PSI on spray gun I have a Harbor For HVLP spray gun the cheaper version one I think I had the settings on 30 for air pressure before.
Just Taught / Convinced me Sir , thank you for Sharing your Talents, God Bless All
that was funny dou lub the channel 60 yrs old myself building models since age 5 0r 6 with dads help always had a drag car in the drive some times 3 or more stay safe and best wishes on the foundation
You cant sand that paint out of your lungs.
Thank you as you said before proof is in the work
You say that you sprayed light coats of clear but it looked like heavy coats to me. What size needle were you using and what psi?
Paasche # 5 needle and head assembly at 32 psi .
What #tips do you use in your airbrush? do you use the same # to paint and clear coat? And what pressures do you use?
Thank you.I have wondered about that. Just learning.Started a channel. All great advise.
I wish I could have met the Old Man .
I painted a model car using enamel paint mixed with paint thinner. I have a glob or run. Wondering if you would use wet sanding on that, and how?
Thanks
Linda Parr Depending on how large the run is .... Allow it to dry thoroughly , start by wet sanding with 1500 grit and work your way up to 12000 . Rinse and dry to check your progress ....
When you wet sand of 2000 and 4000 sanding grit can you remove metallic pearl flakes?
Yes . However , you have many more that are still in place .
@@ScaleModelTechniques Thank you for the advice sir. If there are still remains on a clear gloss that has metallic pearl I just have to wet sand it a little more gently but not on rush?
@@starscream8163 Yes , gently ! Take your time , be sure to wipe it off frequently to see where you are on the removal process .
@@ScaleModelTechniques I didn't use a metallic pearl clear but it was a gloss clear, I don't know how the metallic pearl got in the clear coat but I hope the wet sanding and using Tamiya Polishing Compound could work removing the metallic pearl appearance.
First of all I am far from a model car builder! That being said results are results are they not to those who says something can't be done I say shut the he'll up have you tried it? When it comes the day for me to get my some 100 plus kits built I hope to get me some CD watch learn make mistakes , strip it down do it until I am happy with it good video
Hello, i will buy your airbrush technics dvd , but i am wondering if it's only for plastic models? I don'have any plastic models and i want to work with diecast metal 1/18 model cars. So does it work the same way?
Brk88 Yes , exactly the same way . Difference being , you will need to prime the metal body .
@@ScaleModelTechniques Thank you. And which compressor do you recommend? Also i will buy the paasche H airbrush that you recommended. I will just paint metal car bodies and interiors, so single action will be enough i guess, right?
I would recommend a nailer or a larger compressor with a tank . The H series will serve you well as an airbrush .....
Hahaha how many 1000psi you running that tiny rig at. 🤣
Anyway it would not apply this to 1:1 vehicles.... Or maybe it would the amount of overspray with that sorta pressure would scatter the metallic/pearl in a fine ass over spray over everything so, yes the included bits would be layered so sanding wouldnt matter as much. Normally when spraying a large (area) a light coat is followed with a few heavier coats before they flash off then a mist of high pressure in a random patten to scatter the metallic/pearl that last bit is not the part you want to sand. The thicker build coats will have the metallics laying flat
Great video what pressure and airbrush you using please
Also what do you thin you paint to please
Pasche H single action at 32 psi . Check out our DVDs at old mans models.com
@@ScaleModelTechniques thanks great
Is the pearl basecoat or a single stage?
Pearl shot over aluminum base ….
can i sand enamel paint to remove imperfections ?
Yes .... Otherwise, you have imperfections that will be magnified tenfold when clear is applied to your paint surface ....
@@ScaleModelTechniques TY !!!
I wet sand every coat on cars becauses it shows the color so much better
Thank you 👍
Donn, do you restore full size cars also??
ricky perry Once upon a time ... Have no time for it now . With retirement right around the corner , this to shall change ....
I love your channel great tips
Donn, Enjoy your tutorial's very much ,thanks
thank you sir! the myth was not true. all over the internet they say dont sand metallic paint.
Its no different than clearing over flat base coat!!
mr. yost that was a great video thank you
Point made Donn, great video.
Don you're a great model painter but and I mean this from the heart you really should not sand a metallic single stage paint, can you? Yes. Should you? Absolutely not! I've been painting custom paint on cars for 25 years. I can explain why and what happens when you do and why it's not right but I'm sure you are fine with what your doing and clearly your customers are too. Just know that it does effect the paint and it isn't the same after. If you would like me to explain I'll be glad to help.
Jed Petersen I like to read or hear that explained...(Ive always tried to be scientific in my approach to tasks & there's never too much info for me👍👍 My email is @ Barret.lee@gmail
Thanks Jed🙏🙏
☯️ Zenmodeling☯️
@@Zen_Modeling hey I put a simple explanation in the comments I hope this helps if it's not enough I can give even more detail but for me since I'm in the the real car business and got into it because of modeling in my youth and now as well I really find a lot of these arguments to be quite humorous. If the guys who can't accept my explanation and experience don't want to listen then they could simply go to the nearest reputable body shop and ask their painter why it's not the ideal thing to sand single stage metallic and pearls. I'm actually very shocked that Don hasn't done this because he's very well respected and trusted and It's really to bad that he doesn't understand or simply doesn't care and disseminates misinformation. Hope my explanation helps.
Jed Petersen I’ve looked at all the comments & I don’t see any explanation (simple or otherwise) anywhere in here?? Am I missing something??🤷♂️
☯️ZenModeling☯️
@@Zen_Modeling in the general comments, not on this thread
Do you go to jakes
great to know what grade sandpaper did you use
Late post but I used 1500. Polished it with Meguiars Scratch X. Then clear.
Excellent job 👍 George in uk
Looks like all the Thermal paste idiots made their way to the model car hobby with their "I think" myths lol Great video Don!!!
All i can focus on is respirator old man... put it on then take it off when u talk. I got a headache just watching those fumes fly
Stop talking and get to it
You talk to much about nothing!!