This is one of my favorite autobody refinishing channels. The guy is a no bullshit teacher. No ego. No unnecessary theatrics. Just good simple instruction. Pay attention and you will learn a lot.
Used to do the same thing at the body shop I worked at . Iittle hole in the wall shop but every car left with a mirror finish ya don't get that at a dealership insurance claim spray .
Came out nice! There's so many buffers and polishes out these days, every where I've worked did it different and said they were right, I was considered old school cause I still use my old dewalt 7inch which 3m white,black, blue polish
Will clear coat bond to a freshly buffed surface or will it resist. I have single stage paint and I want to clean up the rough feel to it but want to spray a couple coats of clear on afterwards
Usually I would add a couple drops of dish soap as well then you mentioned it it does help a lot make it easier to sand another thing I do as well is put masking tape on creases and around the edges for burn through... And do edges by hand later.. Great video keep up the good work...
I did repair and body work from a car I just finished painting it I'm at this point and this video is invaluable for me because honestly I can't spend $500 for someone to paint correct my car... I have one or two runs in areas and this video is invaluable thank you so so much for the accurate and to the point information
I do have one question that I'm hoping you can help me with the tape came apart on one section of the door panel and there is overspray red over black can I use a clay bar to remove the red paint? Or do I need to sand down the panel and repaint it? Any help you can give me would be appreciated
@@rosalindwatkins8688 If you sprayed it with lacquer based paint, you can wipe the over spray off with lacquer thinner. If you sprayed with enamel or urethane you can wipe it off with reducer, etc. It should not damage the original paint. If anything it will make is a bit dull (wipe quick with the lacquer thinner). Then you can buff with compound to shine it up. Let me know if that helps out - Jerry
Thank you so so much I sprayed it with Dupli-Color perfect match which from what I'm reading is a lacquer based paint I haven't buffed or polished the paint yet I'm trying to do all of the repair work before I tackle that
@@rosalindwatkins8688 Duplicolor is lacquer based so you can wipe any over spray off with lacquer thinner. Here's one I did with duplicolor - maybe it can help you out a bit :)
I used to detail cars at a body shop, and I got pretty good...then I got cocky. When I had some stuff fixed on my own car, I got too close to the edges and burned through while polishing it. So, this is good advice to stay away from the edges. I used a rubber semi-hard block when I wetsanded stuff to avoid finger marks.
Thank you Jerry, yet another informative and educational video. I will be doing this to blend in paint on my Silverado cab corners and lower front fender project.
That's good to hear. Always remember, painting is challenging for even the best folks. There are lots of variables - temp, color, metallic flakes, bugs, humidity, dust, runs, orange peel, etc. Just have fun with it and learn as you go and each job will get better and better :)
just in time Lakeside ,I am going to cut and polish my 2005 blazer today ,and get rid of the crocodile skin 😂🤣on my first paint job all learned from YOU thanks buddy .
@@LakesideAutobody I went 1000 paper then 2000 sand paper buffed using a cutter compound then polishing compound turned out amazing , THEN it hailed that night ,now I have shinny dents , well that's living in Canada for wait 5 minutes and the weather changes only when we sleep , I'm glad it was my winter beater not my 2015 mustang GT or my show truck a 1991 GMC short box dropped 5 4 '' and air bagged 😌😪🤨
Just completed my first paint job, diy at home. Single stage urethane, solid color, dark blue. It has dirt nibs and orange peel. Before I found this video I was assuming I needed to wet sand with several grits, 1500 to 3,000 then a buff with wool pad and foam pads also. Is this overkill? How many stages of sanding and buffing do I truly need ? I’m a 100% new at this and have read so many different ways, it’s hard to figure out what’s best for me. Thank you
first store spraying single stage paint for a 73 Camaro spoiler Im use to base coat clear coat but anyway got dust nibs simple RUclips search I run across lakeside and right away knew to not look any further thanks
I dont get it clearly he's a pro but I'm thinking about all the guys that say never polish on the edge of the polisher .I'm sticking with this man's words he's great at what he does! Amazing
i just found a really messed up flaw with the fuji simi pro paint system the turbine unit heats up the air in the hose when you try to paint a hole car makes the paint get a shit load of orange peel so pissed Larry B
Came out real nice Jerry! Thanks for the tip on putting dish detergent in the water - I will try it for sure. If you do any drywall work on your home, it works there too. Whether I'm putting the final coat on taped joints or skim-coating a wall, I add a long squirt of blue dawn dish detergent to a bucket of lightweight joint compound and blend it in with a mixer on a drill. Never measured it but it's probably 1/4 cup or so. Hope that helps you out some day! Larry
Funny you say that because I help a guy up north here hang dry wall - all I do is the hanging and screwing but I'll let him know about that - He's a crabby old dude so we'll see what he says :)
So I have laid some Rust-Oleum Enamel Gloss on a farm truck tailgate. It has a good shine, but good orange peel to it. I have no clear on it. If I cut the base Enamel down some, will I loose any gloss? I'm always confused if the gloss can always be brought back, or if you cut too much it will never come back.
You can always get gloss back. Wet sand it with some 1000 grit and buff it like the vid shows - you'll be fine. You can even start with 6-8 hundred grit to knock it down faster :)
Great video. I just finished spraying a fender on my suburban last Sunday (1 week now) with Lumabase base and clear. I had to do it outside and the temps were in the sixties and humid here in the Pacific NW. It didn’t come out very well so I’m hoping to be able to do some correction with a cut and buff (which I’m pretty good at but I’ve never done a new pAint job) The supplier told to not even take it out in the rain for a week to 10 days and not wash it for at least 60 days. When is it likely to be ok to cut and buff? Thanks for the videos.
All body shops cut and buff the next day. Lacquer, acrylic enamel w/ hardener and Urethane single stage or BC/CC all can be wet sanded and buffed the next day if careful. Give it a couple days to be safe. IF it's been super cold though it might make a difference so be careful. Basically as long as you don't mess up the paint - it's time to cut and buff. Suppliers are guys who sell paint but don't necessarily work in the field 👍
@@LakesideAutobody thank you. I figured it has to happen quicker because they’d have cars parked in their shops forever. I’ll give it a try next week. It didn’t turn out very well so it’ll be a good learning experience and ultimately better than it was before. 01 Suburban with 165k on it so it doesn’t have to be perfect. Thanks for replying so quickly.
I just cut in the door jambs on my first paint job, and I got solvent pop. What causes that so I can avoid it on the outside? I used a touch up gun with a 1.0 tip @ like 20-22psi...I was getting dry spray at first, and went slower to make it shiny. I guess I should have done a tack coat first. It's only on the horizontal surfaces. I thought it was trash from my garage until I looked at it the next day, up close.
Could be a temperature thing - I never ran across that myself but heard of it. Was the surface hot from being outside? Maybe to much paint at one time? Dying too fast? It has been pretty hot out and high humidity. Next time start with a very light coat called a tack coat, 2nd coat will be wet but not super wet. Last coat will be wet. Wait ten minutes between coats. That's it. Use quality materials like reducer made for you paint, reduce your paint so that it lays flat w/o putting tons of material on and used decent quality automotive paint. Let me know if you figure out what went wrong - curious :) Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Judging by the couple of big runs I got (that I can wet sand out) I'm guessing it was too much material, or I didn't wait for it to flash between coats long enough. The car has been in the shade in my garage, and I'm using slow reducer/hardeners. It was around 78-80 degrees when I sprayed it. I'm using Nason primer/surfacer and sealer, with the appropriate reducer. The paint is TCP Global Resotration Shop Single Stage. I'm going to cut in the fenders, hood and trunk lid today and hopefully paint the outside tomorrow. Fingers crossed it comes out decent. Thanks for letting me know things to check.
@@LakesideAutobody I also realized it doesn't require the reducer I used in the first batch, which made it thin like water. This batch I didn't use reducer and it was more like milk...seemed to work better. 2 coats on the jambs gave me shiny coverage with just some orange peel. I'm OK with it in the jambs.
Great Video, I like how you put it in the perspective of a diy guy, I am a novice painter, I have noticed you don’t paint in a dedicated spray booth. I have a nice garage/ man cave but i don’t like to sand in there because of the dust. But I have a small shed I use for painting. What are your tricks to sanding and painting in the same environment. Keep up the great work on your videos.
All dirt and dust that you get in a paint job is already on the panel before you spray the first coat (promise). When you think the panel is dust free - it's not - and it doesn't come from the surroundings. Watch this video for some good tips on how to get dust free paint work - ruclips.net/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/видео.html Please don't listen to the nonsense about touching panels with you bare hands either - all body men and painters have to touch the panels they work on. Keep clean hands and a clean shop - don't mix car repairs with body work, etc :)
Like a day or so if you used activator/hardener and temps are room temperature or above. In a body shop, some buff the same day or day after usually :)
Getting ready to spray my 71 Roadrunner in a sublime green acrylic enamel single stage. Any tips to spray it super glossy? I'm going to finish with the 3m trizact either way.
Go around twice on the last coat making sure everything is nice and wet. Use a bit more reducer on that 2nd go around. Just don't over do it and get runs 😊. Let me know how it goes for you. That's always been my favorite car - nothing is tougher or meaner looking by far. Whoever designed that body is the GOAT.
@@LakesideAutobody I believe it was a Swedish desginer at Chrysler, John Herlitz. I appreciate it. Trying to get a super glossy finish without spending 300$ on clear coat.
My doctor´s order was to not put sealing wax onto fresh paint (clearcoat) before about 90 days of curing time. Would you call balony or dependings on such a statement ?
All early paint... say before the 90's was single stage. Right around the 90's everything went to BC/CC I'm thinking whoever told you this was probably right - just my thoughts though - no evidence :)
@@HiFiInsider Use a clean rag with a bit of abrasive polish or compound and rub or buff out a small area. If color shows up on the rag then you have single stage - if no color.... clear. It may be hard with white though :)
@@HiFiInsider According to this site, Honda used BC/CC - www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/honda/1995/civic-coupe/ You can certainly get a great looking paint job with single stage white though. Again, just my thoughts :) Nason (Axalta) has really easy to use urethane and enamel single stage paints - This is Nason single stage Ful-Cryl (acrylic enamel) - ruclips.net/video/LMsf7ZUAda0/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody sure isnt! I could buy a small house in my area for the cost of a loaded truck😂 Besides that, i like taking something that is cheap and rough looking and making it decent again. My interest started in paint, but soon realized i would have to do most of the mechanical as well because of the $$$$ i save. But its satisfying to get it done yourself even if it means struggling thru it sometimes. 👍
All of the cars I own, I always throw a coat of wax on after wet sanding and buffing which is normally the next day or a few days later. I think the no wax thing came from the old days when paint took time to dry. Now with activator, I think it's different. If you are very concerned though, wait 2-3 months to make 100% sure you're good to go :)
Can you wetsand and buff single stage metallic paint new to this just paint my classic and it’s got some dust and dirt in the paint wanna make it look better
Very helpful, Question: How long between shooting and when you can sand and buff? Just shot my 2004 truck hood, single stage Nason acrylic enamel, In Florida, humid, 87 now. Week, couple days? I did give it some heavy coats. Thank You, Much Appreciated and again, Thanks for the tips
With good automotive paint such as Dupont, Nason, PPG, etc and with a hardener - @70 and normal humidity I wait 10 or 15 minutes between coats - BC and CC. I would wait a day to sand and buff. In shops it is done the same day regularly. You can also use polish and wax the next day.
wow 1k then buff. impressive. will have to try. I'm learning but been doing 1k, 1.5, 2k, and 3k before cut and polish with presta. About to tackle my single stage black Nason and found your video. Will have to give it a shot with your method. Good video.
I should have re-watched Jerry's video before I sanded and buffed the side of my hardtop....first time doing this. Burnt through on some edges because I forgot the advice, and started on 800 grit that was really a bit too harsh - got few scratch marks. I'll re-spray it and try again.
That came out excellent! Is that the same door from your previous video? I love the way you simplify the process, 1000 grit straight to buffing. 👍 Tony B
I'm getting ready to spray some of this paintforcars acrylic enamel. I am glad to see how easy it is to clean up the orange peel this paint makes. I was initially disappointed when I saw your other two videos on this paint when I saw so much orange peel.
I will have to say that I did the side of a boat with the same paint but different reducer (higher quality) and it turned out real nice. I might do a video on that. Please let me know how this paint works for you. Just comment on this video with how it went. Jerry
You are supposed to use a different pad for wax - softer. You don't really have to - you can clean your pad real quick by using a pad cleaner or simple screw driver (I think I may have shown it in the vid) and put the wax on with it. :)
Yes you can wet sand and buff single stage metallic paint. It was a common practice before BC/CC came out. Lacquer repairs were rarely cleared and you had to buff it to get a shine. I wet sanded and buffed the deck lid on this mustang and you'll see some up close shots of it at the end of the video - ruclips.net/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/видео.html It's right around 13 minutes and 17 seconds 😊
Are you using the same wool pad for compound and wax? Thought you would be using a foam pad with another product to get out the swirl marks it turned out nice though
Jerry do you recommend this process for newly clear coated surfaces once they cure? I’ve got some dust nibs in my clear coat. Can I sand the fenders with 1500 grit then use the Diamond Cut as you show here to eliminate them?
@@andrewbrown1463 You can try it and if it doesn't cut it fast enough for you - move to a courser grit compound. I always start with the fastest cutting compound I can find then move to medium or fine cut.
Yes it works and holds up fine but most likely you'll have to wet sand and buff. The Trinity urethane is better paint though - sprayed a horse trailer with it and loved it. Flowed out nice, dried fast and held a great shine :)
@@LakesideAutobody Welp, I just invested in several gallons of the Trinity in different colors. And U-Pol for clear. Finally going to start practicing spraying. Thanks for all your help!
@@designsinorbit Very cool! Let me know if you have any questions along the way. The Trinity paint is a bit thick so don't forget the reducer - you can use any brand reducer as long as it is automotive grade. I get to the comments once a day so - I always answer all comments - all videos :)
Hey Jerry, thanks for the great instructional video on this topic. I have the Bauer 6" short-throw random orbit DA polisher/sander from Harbor Freight. Will that work with the Maguires diamond cut compound and other compounds you used for getting rid of orange peel, or do I need a buffer? My understanding is that buffers are higher speed but if you are a newbie like myself, you run more risk of burning through with a buffer than a DA polisher. Please let me know if a DA polisher will work for cut and buff. Thanks.
Jerry, I have a few questions about buffing pads/bonnets. I bought the HF blue micro fiber bonnet, put it on my HF variable speed polisher sander. I applied a half dozen dime size dots of Meguire's Ultimate Compound to the bonnet, then set the polisher to the lowest speed. But when I put the machine to the newly wet sanded paint... the pad was jumping and skipping like crazy! I couldn't get it to evenly buff the surface. Am I doing something wrong? Should I be using a wool bonnet instead, like you did in this video? Do you have a particular brand you like? Also, I noticed that you cleaned your wool bonnet with a screwdriver? Do you not like using the spur tool I've seen advertised? Do you need to "prep" the wool before you use it to avoid slinging wool fibers everywhere?
I do like the wool pads. You could try this one from HF - www.harborfreight.com/7-1-2-half-inch-wool-buffing-pad-90451.html - It looks like a pretty decent pad Here's a better quality one but you'll have to get a backing pad to fit - I use the plastic one from HF. - www.tptools.com/3M-White-Wool-Compounding-Pad,5486.html?b=s*buffing+pad I've used all different kinds and they work similar so that's up to you which you like best. As for your other pad - there are a couple of things that came to mind. You might already be doing this but use the outer part of the pad - don't keep the buffer flat and the other thing was maybe the paint was still a bit soft. Finally try using a bit more compound - especially with foam pads - it acts as a lubricant so it slides. Foam alone will bounce. Oh and it doesn't matter if you get a few wool fibers flying around it will stop after the pad ages a bit. Let me know what ended up being the problem - curious :)
That's just found in books. You can use whatever motions you want as long as the paper stays flat and you are not making finger marks by sanding parallel to your fingers.
Jerry... while I make it a point to watch all your body work videos, I have a question regarding the cut and polish routine. All of the videos I've seen all have to do with cut and polish always have to do with cutting and polishing clear coat, but haven't seen any that do just the paint before clear coat goes on... Is cutting and polishing something that is normally done with just the paint..??
First there is single stage paint which doesn't require clear (seen in this video) and then there's BC/CC base coat/clear coat. With single stage you can cut and buff the paint (color). With BC/CC you don't buff the paint (color) but you wait and buff the clear coat. Hope that makes sense - if not ask again - Jerry
Jerry-I have finish painting my son car. I painted it with front, rear bumper covers off and hood. What would you recommend. Color sand bumpers and hood off the car or reassemble the car and color sand or sand before reassemble Thank you Victor
I always try to have as much stuff put together before painting, color sanding, etc. I usually make the mistake of scratching the fresh paint putting it together - that's my reasoning behind that choice. It's up to you though - what ever is going to get the job done easiest.
It's actually like a cleaner/polish dual action. I've never had any problems with any paint putting any type of polish or wax on it the day after I spray it. Same with washing the car. Paints with hardeners can be wheeled and washed the next day.
Hi Jerry. I didn't think you could even wet sand and buff single stage?? I thought, once you put your 3 coats on, that was it, what you sprayed is what you ended up with?? I didn't think you could put 2 part clear over single stage. I have a old Plymouth that was sprayed with single stage about 30 years ago and there is some places i do have fix up. Would i be better off sanding the whole car (after I did all the body work) and 2k primer everything, then spray base and clear? Or would i have to go through and strip it to bare metal, 2k primer the whole then base/clear?? I'm just thinking of the thickness of all the paint, and afraid of it cracking. When they sprayed it back in about 89, they used Centari i believe. They went over the original paint and used most of that as a (primer). The amount of rust they cut out of my car was about the size of a human hand and from my car being from 1972 did pretty good as far as rust goes. I use to wash it by hand and waxed it once a week so I think that helped alot, as I did drive drive it during the winter back then, I dont do that know though. Thx Jerry for everything u do, I sure wish I could work with you.
You only have to strip if the paint if is checked (crows feet, etc) , cracking, peeling or basically garbage paint. If it is solid and in good condition, you can just DA sand it, prime and block any body work and bare metal spots. They did the right thing going right over the OEM paint. Old paint can be the best primer. It would be cool for sure to work with you too my friend. Keep me updated and always ask ?s if needed - Jerry
You can do it in certain spots. It may flatten it out a bit more than the rest of the car but it's not that noticeable. If it is you can sort of blend it out gradually.
Can you do this with single stage paint that has flake? I just painted my c10 and attempted to wet sand with 1000 and 1500 then used same wool pad and same glaze and it did not come out as nice as this. I will be respraying since I also burned through on certain parts
Any pattern is fine and long as you cancel that pattern with an opposing pattern. Just make sure one direction gets canceled by an opposite. Proof of that is a DA sander - does it not go in circles?
I don't understand how this worked for you, I sanded with a much finer grade 2000 grit paper and used a wool pad with 3m machine polish and I can't get the scratches out and the buffer leaves swirl marks everywhere, I tried a foam pad with a mothers polish and it was a bit better but still tons of left over scratches and swirls. No idea what I'm doing wrong.
What type of paint? Is you paint relatively new or is it an older paint job? You do have to push down on the buffer a bit and make sure that the rubbing compound is at work by looking at the shine as you rub. You may be a bit timid with the buffer - it's almost impossible to burn through on flat surfaces but easy on edges. Let me know how it goes.
Yes you can - check out this video - look at the trunk or deck lid at the end of the video. I wet sanded it with 1200 and buffed it - looks fine and it's metallic too. ruclips.net/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/видео.html
Lakeside Autobody, I watched that video before too. It looks awesome, I was researching and someone said not to wet sand metallic because it would mess the paint up but if you can wet sand and buff with single stage metallic I may go that route! I just want to make sure I can wet sand any orange peel out after I paint the car because this will only be the 3rd one I’ve done and Im expecting I’ll have some orange peel
Absolutely - just wait about an hour so that you don't mess up the metallic flakes by getting it to wet - if you use urethane use urethane clear if you use enamel use enamel clear etc.
Hello first of all great video. I have a question if I use this product would I need to use clear coat on top? If so would you recommend to sand to remove orange peel and then apply clear coat??? Thanks in advance
You can leave this just the way it is - it will shine for years. If you do decide to clear it after it dries for 24 hours you will have to wet sand it to clear it. If you plan on using clear right from the start, clear it about 1/2 after the last coat of color. Then if you want no orange peel at all - wet sand with 1200-1500 and buff. You can cut and buff single stage color and be done or you can cut and buff color with clear on top of it and be done. Hope that makes sense - if not ask again.
@@jpstewart100 No - this was single stage - paint that doesn't need clear. You spray it on let it dry - then wet sand and buff. You can also wet sand and buff single stage metallic paint - lightly
I like pretty heavy metal stuff - anything from early Sabbath to FFDP I like some country stuff too or even old 70's stuff like Player, Doobie Bros, etc. Good times:)
Jerry, instead of cutting and buffing- could you just wet sand down to let's say 2000 grit- and spray a couple of coats of clear coat?? Love your videos and the information; your student PJP
Yes, you can do that. I my dads time they used mostly lacquer and they would simply buff the car with course rubbing compound, clean it up and paint :)
You can do that the next day with out worry if you are careful. Give it a day or two to make sure if you want. That is if the paint you used has an activator or hardener.
Several years ago I did a rustoleum paint job on a car and after wet sand and buff it was like glass. It's funny because if people actually looked close at factory paint they would be mad at the amount of orange peel in the paint. After my rustoleum paint job it look 10x better than the factory did.
Well - first price - the ultra cut is twice the price but it claims to have "super-microabrasive technology" - not sure if that means a lot though. To me they both cut about the same. Can't really tell a difference.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks once again! As you can tell Im going to try this. Ive worked with paint but Im not a pro and I just bought a 66 Mustang and it needs a few spots fixed. I subscribed to your channel and you are super fast on responses. Ill be in touch and Ill keep watching!!
We never had soft blocks in the late 70's and 80's - just got used to sanding by hand. You can use a soft block but honestly it's not necessary. The paper stays flat because you are now really pressing down - you're letting the paper do the cutting - also changing direction all the time so strokes one way cancel stroke in the opp. dir.
You could with solid colors and the clear would stick real well but it may show through the clear. I've cleared over scuffed panels a lot for blending purposes and it looks fine. I wouldn't wet sand metallic single stage and then clear though. Might mess up the met. flakes
Yes, it's very tough to oxyace weld sheet metal w/o distorting the metal. You might want to look into brazing - my dad brazed patches along with fiber glass cloth. That was before the MIG days.
Hey Jerry! Using your advice and videos, I felt confident enough to spray my 1980 Chevy Luv in single stage. I want to send you pics of the end result (I just finished last night) and I have a couple additional questions (hope you don’t mind). Do you have an email address where I can hit ya up?
This is one of my favorite autobody refinishing channels. The guy is a no bullshit teacher. No ego. No unnecessary theatrics. Just good simple instruction. Pay attention and you will learn a lot.
That's nice to hear - thanks for the support.
This is the BEST video on cutting and polishing single stage paint. EAZY AND TO THE POINT. NO extra talking . Thank you
You're welcome Greg - thanks for the support - have a good week :)
Used to do the same thing at the body shop I worked at . Iittle hole in the wall shop but every car left with a mirror finish ya don't get that at a dealership insurance claim spray .
Came out nice! There's so many buffers and polishes out these days, every where I've worked did it different and said they were right, I was considered old school cause I still use my old dewalt 7inch which 3m white,black, blue polish
You don't need to spend $ for great results - this is all they had in the 70's and they still had the Detroit Autorama Car Show
Will clear coat bond to a freshly buffed surface or will it resist. I have single stage paint and I want to clean up the rough feel to it but want to spray a couple coats of clear on afterwards
This is the best instructional video on buffing you make it so simple. Thanks so much.
Thanks Jeff - I appreciate the kind comment :)
I like the way you did that. You kept it simple but still got really good results. Thanks
Thanks MD - thanks for watching :)
Usually I would add a couple drops of dish soap as well then you mentioned it it does help a lot make it easier to sand another thing I do as well is put masking tape on creases and around the edges for burn through... And do edges by hand later..
Great video keep up the good work...
Thanks - sorry about the late reply :)
I did repair and body work from a car I just finished painting it I'm at this point and this video is invaluable for me because honestly I can't spend $500 for someone to paint correct my car... I have one or two runs in areas and this video is invaluable thank you so so much for the accurate and to the point information
You are so welcome - glad you appreciate the content. Feel free to ask questions any time - Jerry
I do have one question that I'm hoping you can help me with the tape came apart on one section of the door panel and there is overspray red over black can I use a clay bar to remove the red paint? Or do I need to sand down the panel and repaint it? Any help you can give me would be appreciated
@@rosalindwatkins8688 If you sprayed it with lacquer based paint, you can wipe the over spray off with lacquer thinner. If you sprayed with enamel or urethane you can wipe it off with reducer, etc. It should not damage the original paint. If anything it will make is a bit dull (wipe quick with the lacquer thinner). Then you can buff with compound to shine it up. Let me know if that helps out - Jerry
Thank you so so much I sprayed it with Dupli-Color perfect match which from what I'm reading is a lacquer based paint I haven't buffed or polished the paint yet I'm trying to do all of the repair work before I tackle that
@@rosalindwatkins8688 Duplicolor is lacquer based so you can wipe any over spray off with lacquer thinner. Here's one I did with duplicolor - maybe it can help you out a bit :)
I used to detail cars at a body shop, and I got pretty good...then I got cocky. When I had some stuff fixed on my own car, I got too close to the edges and burned through while polishing it. So, this is good advice to stay away from the edges. I used a rubber semi-hard block when I wetsanded stuff to avoid finger marks.
Thanks for the story and the tips - have a good weekend.
Thank you Jerry, yet another informative and educational video. I will be doing this to blend in paint on my Silverado cab corners and lower front fender project.
You're welcome Dan :)
I'm getting ready to paint for the first time I'm so glad I found your videos
That's good to hear. Always remember, painting is challenging for even the best folks. There are lots of variables - temp, color, metallic flakes, bugs, humidity, dust, runs, orange peel, etc. Just have fun with it and learn as you go and each job will get better and better :)
Excellent tutorial! I really enjoyed this video and the simple , clear instructions for a layman like myself. Thank you!
You're welcome my friend - have a good weekend :)
just in time Lakeside ,I am going to cut and polish my 2005 blazer today ,and get rid of the crocodile skin 😂🤣on my first paint job all learned from YOU thanks buddy .
Good luck - let me know if you have ?s and how it goes for you :)
@@LakesideAutobody I went 1000 paper then 2000 sand paper buffed using a cutter compound then polishing compound turned out amazing , THEN it hailed that night ,now I have shinny dents , well that's living in Canada for wait 5 minutes and the weather changes only when we sleep , I'm glad it was my winter beater not my 2015 mustang GT or my show truck a 1991 GMC short box dropped 5 4 '' and air bagged 😌😪🤨
Just completed my first paint job, diy at home. Single stage urethane, solid color, dark blue. It has dirt nibs and orange peel. Before I found this video I was assuming I needed to wet sand with several grits, 1500 to 3,000 then a buff with wool pad and foam pads also. Is this overkill? How many stages of sanding and buffing do I truly need ? I’m a 100% new at this and have read so many different ways, it’s hard to figure out what’s best for me. Thank you
first store spraying single stage paint for a 73 Camaro spoiler Im use to base coat clear coat but anyway got dust nibs simple RUclips search I run across lakeside and right away knew to not look any further thanks
You're welcome - thanks for the kind words my friend - feel free to ask any ?s, any time - I get to them all 1-2 times a day :)
I dont get it clearly he's a pro but I'm thinking about all the guys that say never polish on the edge of the polisher .I'm sticking with this man's words he's great at what he does! Amazing
Thank you for your support. If you continue to watch this channel and practice what you see you will be a great body man / painter - I promise :)
i just found a really messed up flaw with the fuji simi pro paint system the turbine unit heats up the air in the hose when you try to paint a hole car makes the paint get a shit load of orange peel so pissed Larry B
Came out real nice Jerry! Thanks for the tip on putting dish detergent in the water - I will try it for sure. If you do any drywall work on your home, it works there too. Whether I'm putting the final coat on taped joints or skim-coating a wall, I add a long squirt of blue dawn dish detergent to a bucket of lightweight joint compound and blend it in with a mixer on a drill. Never measured it but it's probably 1/4 cup or so. Hope that helps you out some day! Larry
Funny you say that because I help a guy up north here hang dry wall - all I do is the hanging and screwing but I'll let him know about that - He's a crabby old dude so we'll see what he says :)
Just opened the link that you sent me from that other video. Very nice work buddy! Excellent job! All the way around!
Thanks for the support - glad you enjoyed it - have a good week :)
Good video very informative only complaint would be some better shots of before and after and in between the steps so we can see the progress
I'll keep that in mind for the next video on this topic - thanks :)
Thank you for the no nonsense easy to follow video.
You're welcome Jim - have a good week :)
So I have laid some Rust-Oleum Enamel Gloss on a farm truck tailgate. It has a good shine, but good orange peel to it.
I have no clear on it. If I cut the base Enamel down some, will I loose any gloss? I'm always confused if the gloss can always be brought back, or if you cut too much it will never come back.
You can always get gloss back. Wet sand it with some 1000 grit and buff it like the vid shows - you'll be fine. You can even start with 6-8 hundred grit to knock it down faster :)
Great job jery there are many different ways of school of thoughts they all work thank you keep up the great work and thanks for sharing
You're welcome - always good to hear from you :)
Great video. I just finished spraying a fender on my suburban last Sunday (1 week now) with Lumabase base and clear. I had to do it outside and the temps were in the sixties and humid here in the Pacific NW. It didn’t come out very well so I’m hoping to be able to do some correction with a cut and buff (which I’m pretty good at but I’ve never done a new pAint job) The supplier told to not even take it out in the rain for a week to 10 days and not wash it for at least 60 days. When is it likely to be ok to cut and buff? Thanks for the videos.
All body shops cut and buff the next day. Lacquer, acrylic enamel w/ hardener and Urethane single stage or BC/CC all can be wet sanded and buffed the next day if careful. Give it a couple days to be safe. IF it's been super cold though it might make a difference so be careful. Basically as long as you don't mess up the paint - it's time to cut and buff. Suppliers are guys who sell paint but don't necessarily work in the field 👍
@@LakesideAutobody thank you. I figured it has to happen quicker because they’d have cars parked in their shops forever. I’ll give it a try next week. It didn’t turn out very well so it’ll be a good learning experience and ultimately better than it was before. 01 Suburban with 165k on it so it doesn’t have to be perfect. Thanks for replying so quickly.
your dad is a wise man
Jerry, why no finishing Glaze for a deeper shine and get rid of some of the cutting swirls?
You can definitely use the glaze - it would help for sure - thanks for the comment Ray - enjoy the rest of the week :)
I just cut in the door jambs on my first paint job, and I got solvent pop. What causes that so I can avoid it on the outside? I used a touch up gun with a 1.0 tip @ like 20-22psi...I was getting dry spray at first, and went slower to make it shiny. I guess I should have done a tack coat first. It's only on the horizontal surfaces. I thought it was trash from my garage until I looked at it the next day, up close.
Could be a temperature thing - I never ran across that myself but heard of it. Was the surface hot from being outside? Maybe to much paint at one time? Dying too fast? It has been pretty hot out and high humidity. Next time start with a very light coat called a tack coat, 2nd coat will be wet but not super wet. Last coat will be wet. Wait ten minutes between coats. That's it. Use quality materials like reducer made for you paint, reduce your paint so that it lays flat w/o putting tons of material on and used decent quality automotive paint. Let me know if you figure out what went wrong - curious :) Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Judging by the couple of big runs I got (that I can wet sand out) I'm guessing it was too much material, or I didn't wait for it to flash between coats long enough. The car has been in the shade in my garage, and I'm using slow reducer/hardeners. It was around 78-80 degrees when I sprayed it. I'm using Nason primer/surfacer and sealer, with the appropriate reducer. The paint is TCP Global Resotration Shop Single Stage. I'm going to cut in the fenders, hood and trunk lid today and hopefully paint the outside tomorrow. Fingers crossed it comes out decent. Thanks for letting me know things to check.
@@jayinmi3706 I think you'll be fine - let me know how it goes for you :)
@@LakesideAutobody I also realized it doesn't require the reducer I used in the first batch, which made it thin like water. This batch I didn't use reducer and it was more like milk...seemed to work better. 2 coats on the jambs gave me shiny coverage with just some orange peel. I'm OK with it in the jambs.
Great Video, I like how you put it in the perspective of a diy guy, I am a novice painter, I have noticed you don’t paint in a dedicated spray booth. I have a nice garage/ man cave but i don’t like to sand in there because of the dust. But I have a small shed I use for painting. What are your tricks to sanding and painting in the same environment. Keep up the great work on your videos.
All dirt and dust that you get in a paint job is already on the panel before you spray the first coat (promise). When you think the panel is dust free - it's not - and it doesn't come from the surroundings. Watch this video for some good tips on how to get dust free paint work - ruclips.net/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/видео.html Please don't listen to the nonsense about touching panels with you bare hands either - all body men and painters have to touch the panels they work on. Keep clean hands and a clean shop - don't mix car repairs with body work, etc :)
I just painted yesterday is there a time the fresh paint has to cure before doing this
Like a day or so if you used activator/hardener and temps are room temperature or above. In a body shop, some buff the same day or day after usually :)
Great vid, some really useful common sense tips. Many thanks for posting.
You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it :)
Getting ready to spray my 71 Roadrunner in a sublime green acrylic enamel single stage. Any tips to spray it super glossy? I'm going to finish with the 3m trizact either way.
Go around twice on the last coat making sure everything is nice and wet. Use a bit more reducer on that 2nd go around. Just don't over do it and get runs 😊. Let me know how it goes for you. That's always been my favorite car - nothing is tougher or meaner looking by far. Whoever designed that body is the GOAT.
@@LakesideAutobody I believe it was a Swedish desginer at Chrysler, John Herlitz. I appreciate it. Trying to get a super glossy finish without spending 300$ on clear coat.
@@LakesideAutobody So basically flow coat it without sanding it? Should I let it tack before I go right over it? Thank you very much
My doctor´s order was to not put sealing wax onto fresh paint (clearcoat) before about 90 days of curing time. Would you call balony or dependings on such a statement ?
I have never had an issue applying wax to fresh paint - I'm pretty sure "sealing wax" doesn't actually seal anything - it's just advertisement :)
Someone told me in early 90s Honda factory paint was single-stage from the factory. Is that true? Hope you can chime in with your expert opinion.
All early paint... say before the 90's was single stage. Right around the 90's everything went to BC/CC I'm thinking whoever told you this was probably right - just my thoughts though - no evidence :)
@@LakesideAutobody appreciate your thoughts. I’m restoring my 95 Civic so i’m trying to find out if the factory did single or B+C.
@@HiFiInsider Use a clean rag with a bit of abrasive polish or compound and rub or buff out a small area. If color shows up on the rag then you have single stage - if no color.... clear. It may be hard with white though :)
@@HiFiInsider According to this site, Honda used BC/CC - www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/honda/1995/civic-coupe/ You can certainly get a great looking paint job with single stage white though. Again, just my thoughts :) Nason (Axalta) has really easy to use urethane and enamel single stage paints - This is Nason single stage Ful-Cryl (acrylic enamel) - ruclips.net/video/LMsf7ZUAda0/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody appreciate you looking into this for me. It does look to be BC/CC for my color (BG33P, Paradise Green Pearl). thank YOU!
Always enjoy the way the videos are aimed at folks working from home👍👍
Much more relatable and useful
Thanks a lot. I appreciate the support.- gotta make the cars last. Not easy to go out and buy a new truck anymore :)
@@LakesideAutobody sure isnt! I could buy a small house in my area for the cost of a loaded truck😂
Besides that, i like taking something that is cheap and rough looking and making it decent again. My interest started in paint, but soon realized i would have to do most of the mechanical as well because of the $$$$ i save. But its satisfying to get it done yourself even if it means struggling thru it sometimes. 👍
@@BearBudgetgarage 100% agree. Keeps you busy, excited about life, and out of trouble.
Nothing better than a hobby that you're passionate about :)
Wow...great finish the light tell the truth.
Speaking of light.....could you do a video on shop and portable lighting type and placement. thanks
Thanks for the suggestion - I'll write that down and try to get one uploaded. Have a great week my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks Jerry
So how long should u really wait after the clear has cured before adding wax or ceramic coat?
All of the cars I own, I always throw a coat of wax on after wet sanding and buffing which is normally the next day or a few days later. I think the no wax thing came from the old days when paint took time to dry. Now with activator, I think it's different. If you are very concerned though, wait 2-3 months to make 100% sure you're good to go :)
Can you wetsand and buff single stage metallic paint new to this just paint my classic and it’s got some dust and dirt in the paint wanna make it look better
Yes - before BC/CC that was done often. I always sanded light though just to stay above the metallic flakes :)
Very helpful, Question: How long between shooting and when you can sand and buff? Just shot my 2004 truck hood, single stage Nason acrylic enamel, In Florida, humid, 87 now. Week, couple days? I did give it some heavy coats. Thank You, Much Appreciated and again, Thanks for the tips
With good automotive paint such as Dupont, Nason, PPG, etc and with a hardener - @70 and normal humidity I wait 10 or 15 minutes between coats - BC and CC. I would wait a day to sand and buff. In shops it is done the same day regularly. You can also use polish and wax the next day.
@@LakesideAutobody Thank You, much appreciated
I prefer to use a little soap in my water too! Helps all around.
Good suggestion.
wow 1k then buff. impressive. will have to try. I'm learning but been doing 1k, 1.5, 2k, and 3k before cut and polish with presta. About to tackle my single stage black Nason and found your video. Will have to give it a shot with your method. Good video.
Check out this video: ruclips.net/video/ONI3jzm65cM/видео.html - It's single stage black Nason. Nason is good paint.
I should have re-watched Jerry's video before I sanded and buffed the side of my hardtop....first time doing this. Burnt through on some edges because I forgot the advice, and started on 800 grit that was really a bit too harsh - got few scratch marks. I'll re-spray it and try again.
So, we should use a "compound" and not a "polish" when trying to bring out the shine?
Right. Polish is just for removing swirl marks, cleaning or light buffing work. Compound cuts faster and removes wet sanding scratches :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you! Your videos are awesome!!!
@@toddjenest3212 I appreciate that Todd - have a great week :)
Hi. Many thanks for great video. Was the original painted surface "clear-coated" before you started? Tks.
No - that was single stage i.e. not base coat / clear coat, Single stage is old tech - a one step paint with a shine :)
Should work on my clear coat as well, right?
Yes - absolutely :)
That came out excellent! Is that the same door from your previous video?
I love the way you simplify the process, 1000 grit straight to buffing. 👍 Tony B
Same door - PaintForCars Acrylic Enamel Single Stage - I was real happy with how it buffed out. Sanded well and wheeled out easy.
Chips And Sparks Garage I might try the 1000 grit Iam going to 3000 then buff with foam pad
@@gtrdrejugfde288 Let me know how it works...
I'm getting ready to spray some of this paintforcars acrylic enamel. I am glad to see how easy it is to clean up the orange peel this paint makes. I was initially disappointed when I saw your other two videos on this paint when I saw so much orange peel.
I will have to say that I did the side of a boat with the same paint but different reducer (higher quality) and it turned out real nice. I might do a video on that. Please let me know how this paint works for you. Just comment on this video with how it went. Jerry
Thank you for the straightforward video! 👏👍
You're welcome Tyler D :)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Will M100 compound work in place of M85. This is what I could find locally. Thank you.
Yes - it will work fine 👍😊
@@LakesideAutobody thank you!
Thanks for your help. I just have one question. Did you change the cover on the pad to apply the wax?
You are supposed to use a different pad for wax - softer. You don't really have to - you can clean your pad real quick by using a pad cleaner or simple screw driver (I think I may have shown it in the vid) and put the wax on with it. :)
I've been told that you can't/should not wet sand metallic single stage paint. Can it be done without problems ? Have you done a video about this ?
Yes you can wet sand and buff single stage metallic paint. It was a common practice before BC/CC came out. Lacquer repairs were rarely cleared and you had to buff it to get a shine. I wet sanded and buffed the deck lid on this mustang and you'll see some up close shots of it at the end of the video - ruclips.net/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/видео.html It's right around 13 minutes and 17 seconds 😊
Thanks for a great job looking forward to your next video
You're welcome Courtney - thanks for always watching. I appreciate it :)
Would the same thing apply for a satin finish? 🤔 as you know it isn't shiny it's more closer to matte...
Unfortunately you can't sand and buff matte or satin finishes. If you do it will end up getting shiny 😊
Great vid Jerry, the door turned out nice.
Thanks UPK - look forward to your next video
Are you using the same wool pad for compound and wax? Thought you would be using a foam pad with another product to get out the swirl marks it turned out nice though
Yes a wool pad, compound, and wax. Foam pads work well too - both work very similar to me.
Jerry do you recommend this process for newly clear coated surfaces once they cure? I’ve got some dust nibs in my clear coat. Can I sand the fenders with 1500 grit then use the Diamond Cut as you show here to eliminate them?
Absolutely. You can even just sand the nibs individually if you only have a few :)
Is the Meguiars medium cut compound ok to use after wet sanding the orange peel out?
@@andrewbrown1463 You can try it and if it doesn't cut it fast enough for you - move to a courser grit compound. I always start with the fastest cutting compound I can find then move to medium or fine cut.
My understanding is that the soap keeps the paper from loading up with the sanded paint particles.
Might help it to slide easier too - not exactly sure. Seems to work just as well w/o soap to so....
Wow that turned out great.
What was your final assessment of the Trinity paint after cutting it down? Pretty good?
Yes it works and holds up fine but most likely you'll have to wet sand and buff. The Trinity urethane is better paint though - sprayed a horse trailer with it and loved it. Flowed out nice, dried fast and held a great shine :)
@@LakesideAutobody Welp, I just invested in several gallons of the Trinity in different colors. And U-Pol for clear. Finally going to start practicing spraying. Thanks for all your help!
@@designsinorbit Very cool! Let me know if you have any questions along the way. The Trinity paint is a bit thick so don't forget the reducer - you can use any brand reducer as long as it is automotive grade. I get to the comments once a day so - I always answer all comments - all videos :)
Hey Jerry, thanks for the great instructional video on this topic. I have the Bauer 6" short-throw random orbit DA polisher/sander from Harbor Freight. Will that work with the Maguires diamond cut compound and other compounds you used for getting rid of orange peel, or do I need a buffer? My understanding is that buffers are higher speed but if you are a newbie like myself, you run more risk of burning through with a buffer than a DA polisher. Please let me know if a DA polisher will work for cut and buff. Thanks.
It'll work. Use a fine grit to cut with like 1500 and it will make it easier to buff. Let me know how it goes for you :)
Can you add clear coat to a single stage paint for a better finish?
Yes :)
Can i use this method on single stage acrylic urethane? Thanks!!
Yes.
Jerry, I have a few questions about buffing pads/bonnets. I bought the HF blue micro fiber bonnet, put it on my HF variable speed polisher sander. I applied a half dozen dime size dots of Meguire's Ultimate Compound to the bonnet, then set the polisher to the lowest speed. But when I put the machine to the newly wet sanded paint... the pad was jumping and skipping like crazy! I couldn't get it to evenly buff the surface. Am I doing something wrong? Should I be using a wool bonnet instead, like you did in this video? Do you have a particular brand you like? Also, I noticed that you cleaned your wool bonnet with a screwdriver? Do you not like using the spur tool I've seen advertised? Do you need to "prep" the wool before you use it to avoid slinging wool fibers everywhere?
I do like the wool pads. You could try this one from HF - www.harborfreight.com/7-1-2-half-inch-wool-buffing-pad-90451.html - It looks like a pretty decent pad Here's a better quality one but you'll have to get a backing pad to fit - I use the plastic one from HF. - www.tptools.com/3M-White-Wool-Compounding-Pad,5486.html?b=s*buffing+pad I've used all different kinds and they work similar so that's up to you which you like best. As for your other pad - there are a couple of things that came to mind. You might already be doing this but use the outer part of the pad - don't keep the buffer flat and the other thing was maybe the paint was still a bit soft. Finally try using a bit more compound - especially with foam pads - it acts as a lubricant so it slides. Foam alone will bounce. Oh and it doesn't matter if you get a few wool fibers flying around it will stop after the pad ages a bit. Let me know what ended up being the problem - curious :)
I noticed you were using "little circles" with the sandpaper. I thought we should never use circles?
That's just found in books. You can use whatever motions you want as long as the paper stays flat and you are not making finger marks by sanding parallel to your fingers.
Jerry... while I make it a point to watch all your body work videos, I have a question regarding the cut and polish routine. All of the videos I've seen all have to do with cut and polish always have to do with cutting and polishing clear coat, but haven't seen any that do just the paint before clear coat goes on... Is cutting and polishing something that is normally done with just the paint..??
First there is single stage paint which doesn't require clear (seen in this video) and then there's BC/CC base coat/clear coat. With single stage you can cut and buff the paint (color). With BC/CC you don't buff the paint (color) but you wait and buff the clear coat. Hope that makes sense - if not ask again - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Hi Jerry... Yes that makes sense... As always, I appreciate your reply... Thank you
Jerry-I have finish painting my son car. I painted it with front, rear bumper covers off and hood. What would you recommend. Color sand bumpers and hood off the car or reassemble the car and color sand or sand before reassemble
Thank you Victor
I always try to have as much stuff put together before painting, color sanding, etc. I usually make the mistake of scratching the fresh paint putting it together - that's my reasoning behind that choice. It's up to you though - what ever is going to get the job done easiest.
Thank you Jerry! I really value your opinion.
Victor
@@VictorHernandez-vl3oo I appreciate that Victor - thanks for the comments and support :)
can you do a video on cutting and sanding single stage metalic
I'll do a video on that for sure. Not sure when but I'll get to it before the summers end.
Yes this plz thinking of using same company u used in vid for this panel but want to use the metallic
I don't think you could cut and buff single stage metallic
Can't believe someone gave u a thumbs down but anyway it's okay to a ply wax that soon to a recent paint job.?
It's actually like a cleaner/polish dual action. I've never had any problems with any paint putting any type of polish or wax on it the day after I spray it. Same with washing the car. Paints with hardeners can be wheeled and washed the next day.
@@LakesideAutobody oh okay this way with single stage only thank you as always
When I wet sand my single stage paint , the paint becomes dull. Does the buffer , polisher bring back the shine ?
Yes. Wet sand it with 1200-1500 grit and buff. The finer the grit wet sand paper, the easier it will be to buff it to a shine :)
Hi Jerry. I didn't think you could even wet sand and buff single stage?? I thought, once you put your 3 coats on, that was it, what you sprayed is what you ended up with?? I didn't think you could put 2 part clear over single stage. I have a old Plymouth that was sprayed with single stage about 30 years ago and there is some places i do have fix up. Would i be better off sanding the whole car (after I did all the body work) and 2k primer everything, then spray base and clear? Or would i have to go through and strip it to bare metal, 2k primer the whole then base/clear?? I'm just thinking of the thickness of all the paint, and afraid of it cracking. When they sprayed it back in about 89, they used Centari i believe. They went over the original paint and used most of that as a (primer). The amount of rust they cut out of my car was about the size of a human hand and from my car being from 1972 did pretty good as far as rust goes. I use to wash it by hand and waxed it once a week so I think that helped alot, as I did drive drive it during the winter back then, I dont do that know though. Thx Jerry for everything u do, I sure wish I could work with you.
You only have to strip if the paint if is checked (crows feet, etc) , cracking, peeling or basically garbage paint. If it is solid and in good condition, you can just DA sand it, prime and block any body work and bare metal spots. They did the right thing going right over the OEM paint. Old paint can be the best primer. It would be cool for sure to work with you too my friend. Keep me updated and always ask ?s if needed - Jerry
That looks fantastic. How long did you wait after you painted the door did you sand and buff it?.
You can wet sand and buff activated urethane the next day. Give it a couple days to be on the safe side :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you.
Can you do this just in certain spots on a vehicle? Or do the whole vehicle to make it all uniform?
You can do it in certain spots. It may flatten it out a bit more than the rest of the car but it's not that noticeable. If it is you can sort of blend it out gradually.
Can you do this with single stage paint that has flake? I just painted my c10 and attempted to wet sand with 1000 and 1500 then used same wool pad and same glaze and it did not come out as nice as this. I will be respraying since I also burned through on certain parts
Yes you can do this with single stage metallic paints.
I heard it's not good to sand in circular patterns tho?
Any pattern is fine and long as you cancel that pattern with an opposing pattern. Just make sure one direction gets canceled by an opposite. Proof of that is a DA sander - does it not go in circles?
@@LakesideAutobody thnx
Hey bro , what kind of wax did you used. Thank you
Meguiar’s M5616 Marine/RV Pure Wax Carnauba Blend - That's all I had around at the time - it works well though.
I don't understand how this worked for you, I sanded with a much finer grade 2000 grit paper and used a wool pad with 3m machine polish and I can't get the scratches out and the buffer leaves swirl marks everywhere, I tried a foam pad with a mothers polish and it was a bit better but still tons of left over scratches and swirls. No idea what I'm doing wrong.
What type of paint? Is you paint relatively new or is it an older paint job? You do have to push down on the buffer a bit and make sure that the rubbing compound is at work by looking at the shine as you rub. You may be a bit timid with the buffer - it's almost impossible to burn through on flat surfaces but easy on edges. Let me know how it goes.
Was that door acrylic enamel?
Yes 🛠
Your videos are great, very informative. So to be clear, you can do this with single stage acrylic enamel correct?
Yes you can - check out this video - look at the trunk or deck lid at the end of the video. I wet sanded it with 1200 and buffed it - looks fine and it's metallic too. ruclips.net/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/видео.html
Lakeside Autobody, I watched that video before too. It looks awesome, I was researching and someone said not to wet sand metallic because it would mess the paint up but if you can wet sand and buff with single stage metallic I may go that route! I just want to make sure I can wet sand any orange peel out after I paint the car because this will only be the 3rd one I’ve done and Im expecting I’ll have some orange peel
Can you put clear on single can you show that. And I use glaze after the compound, want to add clear on a pearl stage paint job
Absolutely - just wait about an hour so that you don't mess up the metallic flakes by getting it to wet - if you use urethane use urethane clear if you use enamel use enamel clear etc.
Hello first of all great video.
I have a question if I use this product would I need to use clear coat on top?
If so would you recommend to sand to remove orange peel and then apply clear coat???
Thanks in advance
You can leave this just the way it is - it will shine for years. If you do decide to clear it after it dries for 24 hours you will have to wet sand it to clear it. If you plan on using clear right from the start, clear it about 1/2 after the last coat of color. Then if you want no orange peel at all - wet sand with 1200-1500 and buff. You can cut and buff single stage color and be done or you can cut and buff color with clear on top of it and be done. Hope that makes sense - if not ask again.
@@LakesideAutobody are you saying to paint the color, then cut and buff, then add clear coat?
@@jpstewart100 No - this was single stage - paint that doesn't need clear. You spray it on let it dry - then wet sand and buff. You can also wet sand and buff single stage metallic paint - lightly
You should have done this demonstration on a dark colored panel. That color is very hard to see your progress.
You're right - I'll do another video on a dark panel :)
If that paint is acrylic enamel, why the color doesn`t came out on the buffing pad?
It probably did - a little. Dark colors you notice that more but it was white so it sort of matches the compound and pad.
Hey Jerry - What kind of music do you listen to when you are color sand?
I like pretty heavy metal stuff - anything from early Sabbath to FFDP I like some country stuff too or even old 70's stuff like Player, Doobie Bros, etc. Good times:)
Jerry, instead of cutting and buffing- could you just wet sand down to let's say 2000 grit- and spray a couple of coats of clear coat?? Love your videos and the information; your student PJP
Yes, you can do that. I my dads time they used mostly lacquer and they would simply buff the car with course rubbing compound, clean it up and paint :)
thank you much appreciated PJP
So you only use one thousand grid then compon
In the old days you wet sanded with like 600! then buffed. You can wet sand with 1000 or 1200 then buff without an issue :)
How long after applying the clear do you have to wait before doing the sand, buff and wax?
You can do that the next day with out worry if you are careful. Give it a day or two to make sure if you want. That is if the paint you used has an activator or hardener.
Beautiful work.
Thanks :)
is there an off the shelf compound youd recommend
Sorry about the late reply - I like Meguires Ultimate Compound - you can get it at an auto parts store.
What color of white is that paint from paint for cars?
Arctic White - it matches GM white real well - like the white from 90's chevy pickups. It's just plain white - not off white or too brite etc.
Several years ago I did a rustoleum paint job on a car and after wet sand and buff it was like glass.
It's funny because if people actually looked close at factory paint they would be mad at the amount of orange peel in the paint.
After my rustoleum paint job it look 10x better than the factory did.
I believe it. You're right about factory orange peel. Thanks for the story :)
Was that the door you did with the paint for cars paint .....if it is that's nice and shiny.....looks great
Yes - it wet sanded nicely and wheeled out easy
Whats the difference between Ultra Cut 105 and Diamond Cut 2.0? Thanks
Well - first price - the ultra cut is twice the price but it claims to have "super-microabrasive technology" - not sure if that means a lot though. To me they both cut about the same. Can't really tell a difference.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks once again! As you can tell Im going to try this. Ive worked with paint but Im not a pro and I just bought a 66 Mustang and it needs a few spots fixed. I subscribed to your channel and you are super fast on responses. Ill be in touch and Ill keep watching!!
So why are you not useing a soft block
We never had soft blocks in the late 70's and 80's - just got used to sanding by hand. You can use a soft block but honestly it's not necessary. The paper stays flat because you are now really pressing down - you're letting the paper do the cutting - also changing direction all the time so strokes one way cancel stroke in the opp. dir.
Yes a little dish soap helps!
Beautiful job 😎👍
Thanks William - I appreciate your support - thanks for watching :)
Could you wet sand then clear coat it ?
You could with solid colors and the clear would stick real well but it may show through the clear. I've cleared over scuffed panels a lot for blending purposes and it looks fine. I wouldn't wet sand metallic single stage and then clear though. Might mess up the met. flakes
@@LakesideAutobody ok thank you for the information
Do you know why when I oxyacetylene weld I crater the metal is the heat too high?
Yes, it's very tough to oxyace weld sheet metal w/o distorting the metal. You might want to look into brazing - my dad brazed patches along with fiber glass cloth. That was before the MIG days.
Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions
What compounds and waxes did you use?
Meguiar’s diamond cut compound 2.0 #85
Meguiar’s #56 Boat/RV Pure Wax (only because that's what I had laying around for wax) It worked well though.
Wish I new what part of Michigan he lives in!!
Google Lakeside Autobody, Michigan, It's there.
Hey Jerry! Using your advice and videos, I felt confident enough to spray my 1980 Chevy Luv in single stage. I want to send you pics of the end result (I just finished last night) and I have a couple additional questions (hope you don’t mind). Do you have an email address where I can hit ya up?
Yes- schoolvideolibrary at gmail You can also post them on the Lakeside Discord if you want discord.com/invite/Qm6qJgcubu Jerry
What compound are you using? Thanks.
Meguiar's Ultru Cut Compound - I think the number is 105.
Awesome video Man thank you 👍
Thanks Billionaire - glad you liked it :)