This is one of my favorite autobody refinishing channels. The guy is a no bullshit teacher. No ego. No unnecessary theatrics. Just good simple instruction. Pay attention and you will learn a lot.
Used to do the same thing at the body shop I worked at . Iittle hole in the wall shop but every car left with a mirror finish ya don't get that at a dealership insurance claim spray .
Came out nice! There's so many buffers and polishes out these days, every where I've worked did it different and said they were right, I was considered old school cause I still use my old dewalt 7inch which 3m white,black, blue polish
Will clear coat bond to a freshly buffed surface or will it resist. I have single stage paint and I want to clean up the rough feel to it but want to spray a couple coats of clear on afterwards
That came out excellent! Is that the same door from your previous video? I love the way you simplify the process, 1000 grit straight to buffing. 👍 Tony B
I used to detail cars at a body shop, and I got pretty good...then I got cocky. When I had some stuff fixed on my own car, I got too close to the edges and burned through while polishing it. So, this is good advice to stay away from the edges. I used a rubber semi-hard block when I wetsanded stuff to avoid finger marks.
That's magazine talk, internet talk and TV talk. The facts are, as long as you are cancelling out one motion with an opposite motion you're fine. If you wet sand an entire car many times you soon realize that it is essential to sand in circles at times - it's often much faster and more efficient. Then just cancel that circular motion with a few linear strokes and you're fine. Hope that makes sense :)
If you're going to wax and buff paint like that get some better microfiber towels their 70/30 microfiber towels are about $6 each. Yes I'm a veteran master detailer
i just found a really messed up flaw with the fuji simi pro paint system the turbine unit heats up the air in the hose when you try to paint a hole car makes the paint get a shit load of orange peel so pissed Larry B
Usually I would add a couple drops of dish soap as well then you mentioned it it does help a lot make it easier to sand another thing I do as well is put masking tape on creases and around the edges for burn through... And do edges by hand later.. Great video keep up the good work...
Several years ago I did a rustoleum paint job on a car and after wet sand and buff it was like glass. It's funny because if people actually looked close at factory paint they would be mad at the amount of orange peel in the paint. After my rustoleum paint job it look 10x better than the factory did.
My doctor´s order was to not put sealing wax onto fresh paint (clearcoat) before about 90 days of curing time. Would you call balony or dependings on such a statement ?
Thank you Jerry, yet another informative and educational video. I will be doing this to blend in paint on my Silverado cab corners and lower front fender project.
Man I wish you would've slowed down a little bit you still had orange peel in a few places your wool pad was clogged up and you went straight from 1000 to polish right ?
I did go right from 1000 grit to the compound. Back in the 80's a shop I worked at we went from 600 to the compound. That's a big jump but it worked fine. We were spraying lacquer and hardened enamel though so it may have buffed a bit easier than today's urethanes.
All of the cars I own, I always throw a coat of wax on after wet sanding and buffing which is normally the next day or a few days later. I think the no wax thing came from the old days when paint took time to dry. Now with activator, I think it's different. If you are very concerned though, wait 2-3 months to make 100% sure you're good to go :)
Like a day or so if you used activator/hardener and temps are room temperature or above. In a body shop, some buff the same day or day after usually :)
It's actually like a cleaner/polish dual action. I've never had any problems with any paint putting any type of polish or wax on it the day after I spray it. Same with washing the car. Paints with hardeners can be wheeled and washed the next day.
Very helpful, Question: How long between shooting and when you can sand and buff? Just shot my 2004 truck hood, single stage Nason acrylic enamel, In Florida, humid, 87 now. Week, couple days? I did give it some heavy coats. Thank You, Much Appreciated and again, Thanks for the tips
With good automotive paint such as Dupont, Nason, PPG, etc and with a hardener - @70 and normal humidity I wait 10 or 15 minutes between coats - BC and CC. I would wait a day to sand and buff. In shops it is done the same day regularly. You can also use polish and wax the next day.
Getting ready to spray my 71 Roadrunner in a sublime green acrylic enamel single stage. Any tips to spray it super glossy? I'm going to finish with the 3m trizact either way.
Go around twice on the last coat making sure everything is nice and wet. Use a bit more reducer on that 2nd go around. Just don't over do it and get runs 😊. Let me know how it goes for you. That's always been my favorite car - nothing is tougher or meaner looking by far. Whoever designed that body is the GOAT.
@@LakesideAutobody I believe it was a Swedish desginer at Chrysler, John Herlitz. I appreciate it. Trying to get a super glossy finish without spending 300$ on clear coat.
All early paint... say before the 90's was single stage. Right around the 90's everything went to BC/CC I'm thinking whoever told you this was probably right - just my thoughts though - no evidence :)
@@HiFiInsider Use a clean rag with a bit of abrasive polish or compound and rub or buff out a small area. If color shows up on the rag then you have single stage - if no color.... clear. It may be hard with white though :)
@@HiFiInsider According to this site, Honda used BC/CC - www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/honda/1995/civic-coupe/ You can certainly get a great looking paint job with single stage white though. Again, just my thoughts :) Nason (Axalta) has really easy to use urethane and enamel single stage paints - This is Nason single stage Ful-Cryl (acrylic enamel) - ruclips.net/video/LMsf7ZUAda0/видео.html
Yes you can - check out this video - look at the trunk or deck lid at the end of the video. I wet sanded it with 1200 and buffed it - looks fine and it's metallic too. ruclips.net/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/видео.html
Lakeside Autobody, I watched that video before too. It looks awesome, I was researching and someone said not to wet sand metallic because it would mess the paint up but if you can wet sand and buff with single stage metallic I may go that route! I just want to make sure I can wet sand any orange peel out after I paint the car because this will only be the 3rd one I’ve done and Im expecting I’ll have some orange peel
Any pattern is fine and long as you cancel that pattern with an opposing pattern. Just make sure one direction gets canceled by an opposite. Proof of that is a DA sander - does it not go in circles?
That's good to hear. Always remember, painting is challenging for even the best folks. There are lots of variables - temp, color, metallic flakes, bugs, humidity, dust, runs, orange peel, etc. Just have fun with it and learn as you go and each job will get better and better :)
Great Video, I like how you put it in the perspective of a diy guy, I am a novice painter, I have noticed you don’t paint in a dedicated spray booth. I have a nice garage/ man cave but i don’t like to sand in there because of the dust. But I have a small shed I use for painting. What are your tricks to sanding and painting in the same environment. Keep up the great work on your videos.
All dirt and dust that you get in a paint job is already on the panel before you spray the first coat (promise). When you think the panel is dust free - it's not - and it doesn't come from the surroundings. Watch this video for some good tips on how to get dust free paint work - ruclips.net/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/видео.html Please don't listen to the nonsense about touching panels with you bare hands either - all body men and painters have to touch the panels they work on. Keep clean hands and a clean shop - don't mix car repairs with body work, etc :)
So I have laid some Rust-Oleum Enamel Gloss on a farm truck tailgate. It has a good shine, but good orange peel to it. I have no clear on it. If I cut the base Enamel down some, will I loose any gloss? I'm always confused if the gloss can always be brought back, or if you cut too much it will never come back.
You can always get gloss back. Wet sand it with some 1000 grit and buff it like the vid shows - you'll be fine. You can even start with 6-8 hundred grit to knock it down faster :)
I don't understand how this worked for you, I sanded with a much finer grade 2000 grit paper and used a wool pad with 3m machine polish and I can't get the scratches out and the buffer leaves swirl marks everywhere, I tried a foam pad with a mothers polish and it was a bit better but still tons of left over scratches and swirls. No idea what I'm doing wrong.
What type of paint? Is you paint relatively new or is it an older paint job? You do have to push down on the buffer a bit and make sure that the rubbing compound is at work by looking at the shine as you rub. You may be a bit timid with the buffer - it's almost impossible to burn through on flat surfaces but easy on edges. Let me know how it goes.
Hey Jerry! Using your advice and videos, I felt confident enough to spray my 1980 Chevy Luv in single stage. I want to send you pics of the end result (I just finished last night) and I have a couple additional questions (hope you don’t mind). Do you have an email address where I can hit ya up?
first store spraying single stage paint for a 73 Camaro spoiler Im use to base coat clear coat but anyway got dust nibs simple RUclips search I run across lakeside and right away knew to not look any further thanks
Yes you can wet sand and buff single stage metallic paint. It was a common practice before BC/CC came out. Lacquer repairs were rarely cleared and you had to buff it to get a shine. I wet sanded and buffed the deck lid on this mustang and you'll see some up close shots of it at the end of the video - ruclips.net/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/видео.html It's right around 13 minutes and 17 seconds 😊
You are supposed to use a different pad for wax - softer. You don't really have to - you can clean your pad real quick by using a pad cleaner or simple screw driver (I think I may have shown it in the vid) and put the wax on with it. :)
That's just found in books. You can use whatever motions you want as long as the paper stays flat and you are not making finger marks by sanding parallel to your fingers.
Are you using the same wool pad for compound and wax? Thought you would be using a foam pad with another product to get out the swirl marks it turned out nice though
You could with solid colors and the clear would stick real well but it may show through the clear. I've cleared over scuffed panels a lot for blending purposes and it looks fine. I wouldn't wet sand metallic single stage and then clear though. Might mess up the met. flakes
Can you do this with single stage paint that has flake? I just painted my c10 and attempted to wet sand with 1000 and 1500 then used same wool pad and same glaze and it did not come out as nice as this. I will be respraying since I also burned through on certain parts
just in time Lakeside ,I am going to cut and polish my 2005 blazer today ,and get rid of the crocodile skin 😂🤣on my first paint job all learned from YOU thanks buddy .
@@LakesideAutobody I went 1000 paper then 2000 sand paper buffed using a cutter compound then polishing compound turned out amazing , THEN it hailed that night ,now I have shinny dents , well that's living in Canada for wait 5 minutes and the weather changes only when we sleep , I'm glad it was my winter beater not my 2015 mustang GT or my show truck a 1991 GMC short box dropped 5 4 '' and air bagged 😌😪🤨
Jerry, I have a few questions about buffing pads/bonnets. I bought the HF blue micro fiber bonnet, put it on my HF variable speed polisher sander. I applied a half dozen dime size dots of Meguire's Ultimate Compound to the bonnet, then set the polisher to the lowest speed. But when I put the machine to the newly wet sanded paint... the pad was jumping and skipping like crazy! I couldn't get it to evenly buff the surface. Am I doing something wrong? Should I be using a wool bonnet instead, like you did in this video? Do you have a particular brand you like? Also, I noticed that you cleaned your wool bonnet with a screwdriver? Do you not like using the spur tool I've seen advertised? Do you need to "prep" the wool before you use it to avoid slinging wool fibers everywhere?
I do like the wool pads. You could try this one from HF - www.harborfreight.com/7-1-2-half-inch-wool-buffing-pad-90451.html - It looks like a pretty decent pad Here's a better quality one but you'll have to get a backing pad to fit - I use the plastic one from HF. - www.tptools.com/3M-White-Wool-Compounding-Pad,5486.html?b=s*buffing+pad I've used all different kinds and they work similar so that's up to you which you like best. As for your other pad - there are a couple of things that came to mind. You might already be doing this but use the outer part of the pad - don't keep the buffer flat and the other thing was maybe the paint was still a bit soft. Finally try using a bit more compound - especially with foam pads - it acts as a lubricant so it slides. Foam alone will bounce. Oh and it doesn't matter if you get a few wool fibers flying around it will stop after the pad ages a bit. Let me know what ended up being the problem - curious :)
Absolutely - just wait about an hour so that you don't mess up the metallic flakes by getting it to wet - if you use urethane use urethane clear if you use enamel use enamel clear etc.
I dont get it clearly he's a pro but I'm thinking about all the guys that say never polish on the edge of the polisher .I'm sticking with this man's words he's great at what he does! Amazing
You can do it in certain spots. It may flatten it out a bit more than the rest of the car but it's not that noticeable. If it is you can sort of blend it out gradually.
Hey Jerry, thanks for the great instructional video on this topic. I have the Bauer 6" short-throw random orbit DA polisher/sander from Harbor Freight. Will that work with the Maguires diamond cut compound and other compounds you used for getting rid of orange peel, or do I need a buffer? My understanding is that buffers are higher speed but if you are a newbie like myself, you run more risk of burning through with a buffer than a DA polisher. Please let me know if a DA polisher will work for cut and buff. Thanks.
Great video. I just finished spraying a fender on my suburban last Sunday (1 week now) with Lumabase base and clear. I had to do it outside and the temps were in the sixties and humid here in the Pacific NW. It didn’t come out very well so I’m hoping to be able to do some correction with a cut and buff (which I’m pretty good at but I’ve never done a new pAint job) The supplier told to not even take it out in the rain for a week to 10 days and not wash it for at least 60 days. When is it likely to be ok to cut and buff? Thanks for the videos.
All body shops cut and buff the next day. Lacquer, acrylic enamel w/ hardener and Urethane single stage or BC/CC all can be wet sanded and buffed the next day if careful. Give it a couple days to be safe. IF it's been super cold though it might make a difference so be careful. Basically as long as you don't mess up the paint - it's time to cut and buff. Suppliers are guys who sell paint but don't necessarily work in the field 👍
@@LakesideAutobody thank you. I figured it has to happen quicker because they’d have cars parked in their shops forever. I’ll give it a try next week. It didn’t turn out very well so it’ll be a good learning experience and ultimately better than it was before. 01 Suburban with 165k on it so it doesn’t have to be perfect. Thanks for replying so quickly.
I like pretty heavy metal stuff - anything from early Sabbath to FFDP I like some country stuff too or even old 70's stuff like Player, Doobie Bros, etc. Good times:)
Jerry, instead of cutting and buffing- could you just wet sand down to let's say 2000 grit- and spray a couple of coats of clear coat?? Love your videos and the information; your student PJP
Yes, you can do that. I my dads time they used mostly lacquer and they would simply buff the car with course rubbing compound, clean it up and paint :)
You can do that the next day with out worry if you are careful. Give it a day or two to make sure if you want. That is if the paint you used has an activator or hardener.
Jerry... while I make it a point to watch all your body work videos, I have a question regarding the cut and polish routine. All of the videos I've seen all have to do with cut and polish always have to do with cutting and polishing clear coat, but haven't seen any that do just the paint before clear coat goes on... Is cutting and polishing something that is normally done with just the paint..??
First there is single stage paint which doesn't require clear (seen in this video) and then there's BC/CC base coat/clear coat. With single stage you can cut and buff the paint (color). With BC/CC you don't buff the paint (color) but you wait and buff the clear coat. Hope that makes sense - if not ask again - Jerry
Thanks - I would love to try some of your clear coat some time. What type of base coats can you put that over? i.e. Could I spray it over lacquer, acrylic enamel single stage, Nason base coat, etc?
These videos are great my friend. I'm considering a single stage paint job in the future. I've only painted a few cars so these videos are helping me to perfect my skill. Question on this, if you attempted to spray a clear coat on after doing that would it work?
Back in the old days my dad would simply buff out a panel with 3m rubbing compound, wipe it clean with wax and grease remover, tape it and spray it. He used Lacquer a lot though. Myself, I would scuff it with at least the grey scuff pad and then clear it. I'm not saying it wouldn't work... I just never did it. In the 80's, I used to spray single stage Dupont Centari then clear it about an hour later and that worked real well. Then you could buff the clear if you want. I usually left it alone unless there was dust or nibs in the paint.
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much! I'm 41 and most of what I've learned about cars started when I was 7. Painting is a new thing for me still. Just a few cars. My first was my 97 Mustang I spray painted with Rustoleum and I buffed and polished it. I wondered if I sanded down and wiped it and cleared if it would've come out better. It was still very shiny. Thank you again for the info. I'm planning to start a project car using a Taurus Police Interceptor sedan soon so this goes a long way.
@@StoneyBrownTV I wouldn't be afraid to try it myself. If you do try it let me know how it works - I've had others ask that question too. Might do a video on that - that's a very common topic - good clear over cheap paint.
@@LakesideAutobody that would be awesome my friend! My idea was always to go through the process of shining up the Rustoleum and keep my panel flat to clear coat it. Lightly spraying it at first to tack up and then get heavier. I most certainly would attempt it as I thought it might be really good for a deep shine in the paint. Thank you for your responses and help. I'll most definitely watch if you try it though. Great videos and great channel!
@@StoneyBrownTV Thanks - glad you like the videos. Feel free to ask any ? at all - no matter how silly you think it is - that's how you get good. Like guitar - I've been playing for a long time a still would like someone that is professional show me how to correctly hold the pick. I'll put that video on the list. Jerry
Hi Jerry. I didn't think you could even wet sand and buff single stage?? I thought, once you put your 3 coats on, that was it, what you sprayed is what you ended up with?? I didn't think you could put 2 part clear over single stage. I have a old Plymouth that was sprayed with single stage about 30 years ago and there is some places i do have fix up. Would i be better off sanding the whole car (after I did all the body work) and 2k primer everything, then spray base and clear? Or would i have to go through and strip it to bare metal, 2k primer the whole then base/clear?? I'm just thinking of the thickness of all the paint, and afraid of it cracking. When they sprayed it back in about 89, they used Centari i believe. They went over the original paint and used most of that as a (primer). The amount of rust they cut out of my car was about the size of a human hand and from my car being from 1972 did pretty good as far as rust goes. I use to wash it by hand and waxed it once a week so I think that helped alot, as I did drive drive it during the winter back then, I dont do that know though. Thx Jerry for everything u do, I sure wish I could work with you.
You only have to strip if the paint if is checked (crows feet, etc) , cracking, peeling or basically garbage paint. If it is solid and in good condition, you can just DA sand it, prime and block any body work and bare metal spots. They did the right thing going right over the OEM paint. Old paint can be the best primer. It would be cool for sure to work with you too my friend. Keep me updated and always ask ?s if needed - Jerry
If you don't have much to cut through use 1500 - for a light cut and buff. If you need to cut a little faster try 1200 or even 1000. You can always move to a finer grit after cutting it down with the course grit.
Well - first price - the ultra cut is twice the price but it claims to have "super-microabrasive technology" - not sure if that means a lot though. To me they both cut about the same. Can't really tell a difference.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks once again! As you can tell Im going to try this. Ive worked with paint but Im not a pro and I just bought a 66 Mustang and it needs a few spots fixed. I subscribed to your channel and you are super fast on responses. Ill be in touch and Ill keep watching!!
Here's that same panel in red ruclips.net/video/-ykX4DNCcNw/видео.html after this damage ruclips.net/video/0vDCpeZjp8g/видео.html - BTW the original color was grey metallic - I'd say it came out pretty straight. A positive attitude do your life good my friend - have a great weekend :)
Jerry do you recommend this process for newly clear coated surfaces once they cure? I’ve got some dust nibs in my clear coat. Can I sand the fenders with 1500 grit then use the Diamond Cut as you show here to eliminate them?
@@andrewbrown1463 You can try it and if it doesn't cut it fast enough for you - move to a courser grit compound. I always start with the fastest cutting compound I can find then move to medium or fine cut.
Jerry-I have finish painting my son car. I painted it with front, rear bumper covers off and hood. What would you recommend. Color sand bumpers and hood off the car or reassemble the car and color sand or sand before reassemble Thank you Victor
I always try to have as much stuff put together before painting, color sanding, etc. I usually make the mistake of scratching the fresh paint putting it together - that's my reasoning behind that choice. It's up to you though - what ever is going to get the job done easiest.
You can do that too but just know that not too many folks use one in a high volume body shop. The trick is to no sand parallel with your fingers but sand in circles or perpendicular to your fingers and in various directions.
This is one of my favorite autobody refinishing channels. The guy is a no bullshit teacher. No ego. No unnecessary theatrics. Just good simple instruction. Pay attention and you will learn a lot.
That's nice to hear - thanks for the support.
Used to do the same thing at the body shop I worked at . Iittle hole in the wall shop but every car left with a mirror finish ya don't get that at a dealership insurance claim spray .
Came out nice! There's so many buffers and polishes out these days, every where I've worked did it different and said they were right, I was considered old school cause I still use my old dewalt 7inch which 3m white,black, blue polish
You don't need to spend $ for great results - this is all they had in the 70's and they still had the Detroit Autorama Car Show
Will clear coat bond to a freshly buffed surface or will it resist. I have single stage paint and I want to clean up the rough feel to it but want to spray a couple coats of clear on afterwards
That came out excellent! Is that the same door from your previous video?
I love the way you simplify the process, 1000 grit straight to buffing. 👍 Tony B
Same door - PaintForCars Acrylic Enamel Single Stage - I was real happy with how it buffed out. Sanded well and wheeled out easy.
Chips And Sparks Garage I might try the 1000 grit Iam going to 3000 then buff with foam pad
@@gtrdrejugfde288 Let me know how it works...
I used to detail cars at a body shop, and I got pretty good...then I got cocky. When I had some stuff fixed on my own car, I got too close to the edges and burned through while polishing it. So, this is good advice to stay away from the edges. I used a rubber semi-hard block when I wetsanded stuff to avoid finger marks.
Thanks for the story and the tips - have a good weekend.
* * Everybody saiz NO CIRCULAR motions when you wet sand...Hello...!!!??? * *
That's magazine talk, internet talk and TV talk. The facts are, as long as you are cancelling out one motion with an opposite motion you're fine. If you wet sand an entire car many times you soon realize that it is essential to sand in circles at times - it's often much faster and more efficient. Then just cancel that circular motion with a few linear strokes and you're fine. Hope that makes sense :)
If you're going to wax and buff paint like that get some better microfiber towels their 70/30 microfiber towels are about $6 each.
Yes I'm a veteran master detailer
Thanks for the tip - and thanks for watching. Have a good weekend :)
Good video very informative only complaint would be some better shots of before and after and in between the steps so we can see the progress
I'll keep that in mind for the next video on this topic - thanks :)
Wow don't cut your ear off...
i just found a really messed up flaw with the fuji simi pro paint system the turbine unit heats up the air in the hose when you try to paint a hole car makes the paint get a shit load of orange peel so pissed Larry B
Usually I would add a couple drops of dish soap as well then you mentioned it it does help a lot make it easier to sand another thing I do as well is put masking tape on creases and around the edges for burn through... And do edges by hand later..
Great video keep up the good work...
Thanks - sorry about the late reply :)
Excellent tutorial! I really enjoyed this video and the simple , clear instructions for a layman like myself. Thank you!
You're welcome my friend - have a good weekend :)
You should have done this demonstration on a dark colored panel. That color is very hard to see your progress.
You're right - I'll do another video on a dark panel :)
Several years ago I did a rustoleum paint job on a car and after wet sand and buff it was like glass.
It's funny because if people actually looked close at factory paint they would be mad at the amount of orange peel in the paint.
After my rustoleum paint job it look 10x better than the factory did.
I believe it. You're right about factory orange peel. Thanks for the story :)
Wow that turned out great.
This is the BEST video on cutting and polishing single stage paint. EAZY AND TO THE POINT. NO extra talking . Thank you
You're welcome Greg - thanks for the support - have a good week :)
My doctor´s order was to not put sealing wax onto fresh paint (clearcoat) before about 90 days of curing time. Would you call balony or dependings on such a statement ?
I have never had an issue applying wax to fresh paint - I'm pretty sure "sealing wax" doesn't actually seal anything - it's just advertisement :)
Thank you Jerry, yet another informative and educational video. I will be doing this to blend in paint on my Silverado cab corners and lower front fender project.
You're welcome Dan :)
Man I wish you would've slowed down a little bit you still had orange peel in a few places your wool pad was clogged up and you went straight from 1000 to polish right ?
I did go right from 1000 grit to the compound. Back in the 80's a shop I worked at we went from 600 to the compound. That's a big jump but it worked fine. We were spraying lacquer and hardened enamel though so it may have buffed a bit easier than today's urethanes.
I like the way you did that. You kept it simple but still got really good results. Thanks
Thanks MD - thanks for watching :)
Great vid, some really useful common sense tips. Many thanks for posting.
You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it :)
your dad is a wise man
So how long should u really wait after the clear has cured before adding wax or ceramic coat?
All of the cars I own, I always throw a coat of wax on after wet sanding and buffing which is normally the next day or a few days later. I think the no wax thing came from the old days when paint took time to dry. Now with activator, I think it's different. If you are very concerned though, wait 2-3 months to make 100% sure you're good to go :)
Should work on my clear coat as well, right?
Yes - absolutely :)
I just painted yesterday is there a time the fresh paint has to cure before doing this
Like a day or so if you used activator/hardener and temps are room temperature or above. In a body shop, some buff the same day or day after usually :)
Can't believe someone gave u a thumbs down but anyway it's okay to a ply wax that soon to a recent paint job.?
It's actually like a cleaner/polish dual action. I've never had any problems with any paint putting any type of polish or wax on it the day after I spray it. Same with washing the car. Paints with hardeners can be wheeled and washed the next day.
@@LakesideAutobody oh okay this way with single stage only thank you as always
That looks fantastic. How long did you wait after you painted the door did you sand and buff it?.
You can wet sand and buff activated urethane the next day. Give it a couple days to be on the safe side :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you.
Very helpful, Question: How long between shooting and when you can sand and buff? Just shot my 2004 truck hood, single stage Nason acrylic enamel, In Florida, humid, 87 now. Week, couple days? I did give it some heavy coats. Thank You, Much Appreciated and again, Thanks for the tips
With good automotive paint such as Dupont, Nason, PPG, etc and with a hardener - @70 and normal humidity I wait 10 or 15 minutes between coats - BC and CC. I would wait a day to sand and buff. In shops it is done the same day regularly. You can also use polish and wax the next day.
@@LakesideAutobody Thank You, much appreciated
Yes a little dish soap helps!
I prefer to use a little soap in my water too! Helps all around.
Good suggestion.
Will this work to remove tiger stripes in the paint?
No - unfortunately tiger stripes are permanent and come from the way the paint was sprayed.
Hey bro , what kind of wax did you used. Thank you
Meguiar’s M5616 Marine/RV Pure Wax Carnauba Blend - That's all I had around at the time - it works well though.
Getting ready to spray my 71 Roadrunner in a sublime green acrylic enamel single stage. Any tips to spray it super glossy? I'm going to finish with the 3m trizact either way.
Go around twice on the last coat making sure everything is nice and wet. Use a bit more reducer on that 2nd go around. Just don't over do it and get runs 😊. Let me know how it goes for you. That's always been my favorite car - nothing is tougher or meaner looking by far. Whoever designed that body is the GOAT.
@@LakesideAutobody I believe it was a Swedish desginer at Chrysler, John Herlitz. I appreciate it. Trying to get a super glossy finish without spending 300$ on clear coat.
@@LakesideAutobody So basically flow coat it without sanding it? Should I let it tack before I go right over it? Thank you very much
Thanks
Someone told me in early 90s Honda factory paint was single-stage from the factory. Is that true? Hope you can chime in with your expert opinion.
All early paint... say before the 90's was single stage. Right around the 90's everything went to BC/CC I'm thinking whoever told you this was probably right - just my thoughts though - no evidence :)
@@LakesideAutobody appreciate your thoughts. I’m restoring my 95 Civic so i’m trying to find out if the factory did single or B+C.
@@HiFiInsider Use a clean rag with a bit of abrasive polish or compound and rub or buff out a small area. If color shows up on the rag then you have single stage - if no color.... clear. It may be hard with white though :)
@@HiFiInsider According to this site, Honda used BC/CC - www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/honda/1995/civic-coupe/ You can certainly get a great looking paint job with single stage white though. Again, just my thoughts :) Nason (Axalta) has really easy to use urethane and enamel single stage paints - This is Nason single stage Ful-Cryl (acrylic enamel) - ruclips.net/video/LMsf7ZUAda0/видео.html
@@LakesideAutobody appreciate you looking into this for me. It does look to be BC/CC for my color (BG33P, Paradise Green Pearl). thank YOU!
So you only use one thousand grid then compon
In the old days you wet sanded with like 600! then buffed. You can wet sand with 1000 or 1200 then buff without an issue :)
Beautiful work.
Thanks :)
Wish I new what part of Michigan he lives in!!
Google Lakeside Autobody, Michigan, It's there.
Your videos are great, very informative. So to be clear, you can do this with single stage acrylic enamel correct?
Yes you can - check out this video - look at the trunk or deck lid at the end of the video. I wet sanded it with 1200 and buffed it - looks fine and it's metallic too. ruclips.net/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/видео.html
Lakeside Autobody, I watched that video before too. It looks awesome, I was researching and someone said not to wet sand metallic because it would mess the paint up but if you can wet sand and buff with single stage metallic I may go that route! I just want to make sure I can wet sand any orange peel out after I paint the car because this will only be the 3rd one I’ve done and Im expecting I’ll have some orange peel
I heard it's not good to sand in circular patterns tho?
Any pattern is fine and long as you cancel that pattern with an opposing pattern. Just make sure one direction gets canceled by an opposite. Proof of that is a DA sander - does it not go in circles?
@@LakesideAutobody thnx
I'm getting ready to paint for the first time I'm so glad I found your videos
That's good to hear. Always remember, painting is challenging for even the best folks. There are lots of variables - temp, color, metallic flakes, bugs, humidity, dust, runs, orange peel, etc. Just have fun with it and learn as you go and each job will get better and better :)
Great Video, I like how you put it in the perspective of a diy guy, I am a novice painter, I have noticed you don’t paint in a dedicated spray booth. I have a nice garage/ man cave but i don’t like to sand in there because of the dust. But I have a small shed I use for painting. What are your tricks to sanding and painting in the same environment. Keep up the great work on your videos.
All dirt and dust that you get in a paint job is already on the panel before you spray the first coat (promise). When you think the panel is dust free - it's not - and it doesn't come from the surroundings. Watch this video for some good tips on how to get dust free paint work - ruclips.net/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/видео.html Please don't listen to the nonsense about touching panels with you bare hands either - all body men and painters have to touch the panels they work on. Keep clean hands and a clean shop - don't mix car repairs with body work, etc :)
Thanks brother. Subd
You're welcome - thanks for the sub :)
So I have laid some Rust-Oleum Enamel Gloss on a farm truck tailgate. It has a good shine, but good orange peel to it.
I have no clear on it. If I cut the base Enamel down some, will I loose any gloss? I'm always confused if the gloss can always be brought back, or if you cut too much it will never come back.
You can always get gloss back. Wet sand it with some 1000 grit and buff it like the vid shows - you'll be fine. You can even start with 6-8 hundred grit to knock it down faster :)
Awesome video Man thank you 👍
Thanks Billionaire - glad you liked it :)
I don't understand how this worked for you, I sanded with a much finer grade 2000 grit paper and used a wool pad with 3m machine polish and I can't get the scratches out and the buffer leaves swirl marks everywhere, I tried a foam pad with a mothers polish and it was a bit better but still tons of left over scratches and swirls. No idea what I'm doing wrong.
What type of paint? Is you paint relatively new or is it an older paint job? You do have to push down on the buffer a bit and make sure that the rubbing compound is at work by looking at the shine as you rub. You may be a bit timid with the buffer - it's almost impossible to burn through on flat surfaces but easy on edges. Let me know how it goes.
So, we should use a "compound" and not a "polish" when trying to bring out the shine?
Right. Polish is just for removing swirl marks, cleaning or light buffing work. Compound cuts faster and removes wet sanding scratches :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you! Your videos are awesome!!!
@@toddjenest3212 I appreciate that Todd - have a great week :)
Hey Jerry! Using your advice and videos, I felt confident enough to spray my 1980 Chevy Luv in single stage. I want to send you pics of the end result (I just finished last night) and I have a couple additional questions (hope you don’t mind). Do you have an email address where I can hit ya up?
Yes- schoolvideolibrary at gmail You can also post them on the Lakeside Discord if you want discord.com/invite/Qm6qJgcubu Jerry
Hi. Many thanks for great video. Was the original painted surface "clear-coated" before you started? Tks.
No - that was single stage i.e. not base coat / clear coat, Single stage is old tech - a one step paint with a shine :)
first store spraying single stage paint for a 73 Camaro spoiler Im use to base coat clear coat but anyway got dust nibs simple RUclips search I run across lakeside and right away knew to not look any further thanks
You're welcome - thanks for the kind words my friend - feel free to ask any ?s, any time - I get to them all 1-2 times a day :)
can you do a video on cutting and sanding single stage metalic
I'll do a video on that for sure. Not sure when but I'll get to it before the summers end.
Yes this plz thinking of using same company u used in vid for this panel but want to use the metallic
I don't think you could cut and buff single stage metallic
I've been told that you can't/should not wet sand metallic single stage paint. Can it be done without problems ? Have you done a video about this ?
Yes you can wet sand and buff single stage metallic paint. It was a common practice before BC/CC came out. Lacquer repairs were rarely cleared and you had to buff it to get a shine. I wet sanded and buffed the deck lid on this mustang and you'll see some up close shots of it at the end of the video - ruclips.net/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/видео.html It's right around 13 minutes and 17 seconds 😊
Would the same thing apply for a satin finish? 🤔 as you know it isn't shiny it's more closer to matte...
Unfortunately you can't sand and buff matte or satin finishes. If you do it will end up getting shiny 😊
Thanks for your help. I just have one question. Did you change the cover on the pad to apply the wax?
You are supposed to use a different pad for wax - softer. You don't really have to - you can clean your pad real quick by using a pad cleaner or simple screw driver (I think I may have shown it in the vid) and put the wax on with it. :)
When I wet sand my single stage paint , the paint becomes dull. Does the buffer , polisher bring back the shine ?
Yes. Wet sand it with 1200-1500 grit and buff. The finer the grit wet sand paper, the easier it will be to buff it to a shine :)
Was that the door you did with the paint for cars paint .....if it is that's nice and shiny.....looks great
Yes - it wet sanded nicely and wheeled out easy
Just opened the link that you sent me from that other video. Very nice work buddy! Excellent job! All the way around!
Thanks for the support - glad you enjoyed it - have a good week :)
I noticed you were using "little circles" with the sandpaper. I thought we should never use circles?
That's just found in books. You can use whatever motions you want as long as the paper stays flat and you are not making finger marks by sanding parallel to your fingers.
Are you using the same wool pad for compound and wax? Thought you would be using a foam pad with another product to get out the swirl marks it turned out nice though
Yes a wool pad, compound, and wax. Foam pads work well too - both work very similar to me.
Could you wet sand then clear coat it ?
You could with solid colors and the clear would stick real well but it may show through the clear. I've cleared over scuffed panels a lot for blending purposes and it looks fine. I wouldn't wet sand metallic single stage and then clear though. Might mess up the met. flakes
@@LakesideAutobody ok thank you for the information
Can you do this with single stage paint that has flake? I just painted my c10 and attempted to wet sand with 1000 and 1500 then used same wool pad and same glaze and it did not come out as nice as this. I will be respraying since I also burned through on certain parts
Yes you can do this with single stage metallic paints.
just in time Lakeside ,I am going to cut and polish my 2005 blazer today ,and get rid of the crocodile skin 😂🤣on my first paint job all learned from YOU thanks buddy .
Good luck - let me know if you have ?s and how it goes for you :)
@@LakesideAutobody I went 1000 paper then 2000 sand paper buffed using a cutter compound then polishing compound turned out amazing , THEN it hailed that night ,now I have shinny dents , well that's living in Canada for wait 5 minutes and the weather changes only when we sleep , I'm glad it was my winter beater not my 2015 mustang GT or my show truck a 1991 GMC short box dropped 5 4 '' and air bagged 😌😪🤨
Jerry, I have a few questions about buffing pads/bonnets. I bought the HF blue micro fiber bonnet, put it on my HF variable speed polisher sander. I applied a half dozen dime size dots of Meguire's Ultimate Compound to the bonnet, then set the polisher to the lowest speed. But when I put the machine to the newly wet sanded paint... the pad was jumping and skipping like crazy! I couldn't get it to evenly buff the surface. Am I doing something wrong? Should I be using a wool bonnet instead, like you did in this video? Do you have a particular brand you like? Also, I noticed that you cleaned your wool bonnet with a screwdriver? Do you not like using the spur tool I've seen advertised? Do you need to "prep" the wool before you use it to avoid slinging wool fibers everywhere?
I do like the wool pads. You could try this one from HF - www.harborfreight.com/7-1-2-half-inch-wool-buffing-pad-90451.html - It looks like a pretty decent pad Here's a better quality one but you'll have to get a backing pad to fit - I use the plastic one from HF. - www.tptools.com/3M-White-Wool-Compounding-Pad,5486.html?b=s*buffing+pad I've used all different kinds and they work similar so that's up to you which you like best. As for your other pad - there are a couple of things that came to mind. You might already be doing this but use the outer part of the pad - don't keep the buffer flat and the other thing was maybe the paint was still a bit soft. Finally try using a bit more compound - especially with foam pads - it acts as a lubricant so it slides. Foam alone will bounce. Oh and it doesn't matter if you get a few wool fibers flying around it will stop after the pad ages a bit. Let me know what ended up being the problem - curious :)
Jerry, why no finishing Glaze for a deeper shine and get rid of some of the cutting swirls?
You can definitely use the glaze - it would help for sure - thanks for the comment Ray - enjoy the rest of the week :)
Can you put clear on single can you show that. And I use glaze after the compound, want to add clear on a pearl stage paint job
Absolutely - just wait about an hour so that you don't mess up the metallic flakes by getting it to wet - if you use urethane use urethane clear if you use enamel use enamel clear etc.
My understanding is that the soap keeps the paper from loading up with the sanded paint particles.
Might help it to slide easier too - not exactly sure. Seems to work just as well w/o soap to so....
I dont get it clearly he's a pro but I'm thinking about all the guys that say never polish on the edge of the polisher .I'm sticking with this man's words he's great at what he does! Amazing
Thank you for your support. If you continue to watch this channel and practice what you see you will be a great body man / painter - I promise :)
This is the best instructional video on buffing you make it so simple. Thanks so much.
Thanks Jeff - I appreciate the kind comment :)
Can you do this just in certain spots on a vehicle? Or do the whole vehicle to make it all uniform?
You can do it in certain spots. It may flatten it out a bit more than the rest of the car but it's not that noticeable. If it is you can sort of blend it out gradually.
If that paint is acrylic enamel, why the color doesn`t came out on the buffing pad?
It probably did - a little. Dark colors you notice that more but it was white so it sort of matches the compound and pad.
Hey Jerry, thanks for the great instructional video on this topic. I have the Bauer 6" short-throw random orbit DA polisher/sander from Harbor Freight. Will that work with the Maguires diamond cut compound and other compounds you used for getting rid of orange peel, or do I need a buffer? My understanding is that buffers are higher speed but if you are a newbie like myself, you run more risk of burning through with a buffer than a DA polisher. Please let me know if a DA polisher will work for cut and buff. Thanks.
It'll work. Use a fine grit to cut with like 1500 and it will make it easier to buff. Let me know how it goes for you :)
Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Will M100 compound work in place of M85. This is what I could find locally. Thank you.
Yes - it will work fine 👍😊
@@LakesideAutobody thank you!
Great video. I just finished spraying a fender on my suburban last Sunday (1 week now) with Lumabase base and clear. I had to do it outside and the temps were in the sixties and humid here in the Pacific NW. It didn’t come out very well so I’m hoping to be able to do some correction with a cut and buff (which I’m pretty good at but I’ve never done a new pAint job) The supplier told to not even take it out in the rain for a week to 10 days and not wash it for at least 60 days. When is it likely to be ok to cut and buff? Thanks for the videos.
All body shops cut and buff the next day. Lacquer, acrylic enamel w/ hardener and Urethane single stage or BC/CC all can be wet sanded and buffed the next day if careful. Give it a couple days to be safe. IF it's been super cold though it might make a difference so be careful. Basically as long as you don't mess up the paint - it's time to cut and buff. Suppliers are guys who sell paint but don't necessarily work in the field 👍
@@LakesideAutobody thank you. I figured it has to happen quicker because they’d have cars parked in their shops forever. I’ll give it a try next week. It didn’t turn out very well so it’ll be a good learning experience and ultimately better than it was before. 01 Suburban with 165k on it so it doesn’t have to be perfect. Thanks for replying so quickly.
👍👍
Would love to have you do some work for me in the future!
Thanks :)
Hey Jerry - What kind of music do you listen to when you are color sand?
I like pretty heavy metal stuff - anything from early Sabbath to FFDP I like some country stuff too or even old 70's stuff like Player, Doobie Bros, etc. Good times:)
Was that door single stage or bc/cc?? Thanks for the videos!!
Single stage - you're welcome - thanks for watching Crazy Horse :)
Jerry, instead of cutting and buffing- could you just wet sand down to let's say 2000 grit- and spray a couple of coats of clear coat?? Love your videos and the information; your student PJP
Yes, you can do that. I my dads time they used mostly lacquer and they would simply buff the car with course rubbing compound, clean it up and paint :)
thank you much appreciated PJP
Can i use this method on single stage acrylic urethane? Thanks!!
Yes.
How long after applying the clear do you have to wait before doing the sand, buff and wax?
You can do that the next day with out worry if you are careful. Give it a day or two to make sure if you want. That is if the paint you used has an activator or hardener.
Jerry... while I make it a point to watch all your body work videos, I have a question regarding the cut and polish routine. All of the videos I've seen all have to do with cut and polish always have to do with cutting and polishing clear coat, but haven't seen any that do just the paint before clear coat goes on... Is cutting and polishing something that is normally done with just the paint..??
First there is single stage paint which doesn't require clear (seen in this video) and then there's BC/CC base coat/clear coat. With single stage you can cut and buff the paint (color). With BC/CC you don't buff the paint (color) but you wait and buff the clear coat. Hope that makes sense - if not ask again - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Hi Jerry... Yes that makes sense... As always, I appreciate your reply... Thank you
Wow...great finish the light tell the truth.
Speaking of light.....could you do a video on shop and portable lighting type and placement. thanks
Thanks for the suggestion - I'll write that down and try to get one uploaded. Have a great week my friend :)
@@LakesideAutobody thanks Jerry
Thanks for a great job looking forward to your next video
You're welcome Courtney - thanks for always watching. I appreciate it :)
Came out nice....
Thanks - I would love to try some of your clear coat some time. What type of base coats can you put that over? i.e. Could I spray it over lacquer, acrylic enamel single stage, Nason base coat, etc?
Thank you for the straightforward video! 👏👍
You're welcome Tyler D :)
Can you add clear coat to a single stage paint for a better finish?
Yes :)
These videos are great my friend. I'm considering a single stage paint job in the future. I've only painted a few cars so these videos are helping me to perfect my skill. Question on this, if you attempted to spray a clear coat on after doing that would it work?
Back in the old days my dad would simply buff out a panel with 3m rubbing compound, wipe it clean with wax and grease remover, tape it and spray it. He used Lacquer a lot though. Myself, I would scuff it with at least the grey scuff pad and then clear it. I'm not saying it wouldn't work... I just never did it. In the 80's, I used to spray single stage Dupont Centari then clear it about an hour later and that worked real well. Then you could buff the clear if you want. I usually left it alone unless there was dust or nibs in the paint.
@@LakesideAutobody thank you so much! I'm 41 and most of what I've learned about cars started when I was 7. Painting is a new thing for me still. Just a few cars. My first was my 97 Mustang I spray painted with Rustoleum and I buffed and polished it. I wondered if I sanded down and wiped it and cleared if it would've come out better. It was still very shiny. Thank you again for the info. I'm planning to start a project car using a Taurus Police Interceptor sedan soon so this goes a long way.
@@StoneyBrownTV I wouldn't be afraid to try it myself. If you do try it let me know how it works - I've had others ask that question too. Might do a video on that - that's a very common topic - good clear over cheap paint.
@@LakesideAutobody that would be awesome my friend! My idea was always to go through the process of shining up the Rustoleum and keep my panel flat to clear coat it. Lightly spraying it at first to tack up and then get heavier. I most certainly would attempt it as I thought it might be really good for a deep shine in the paint. Thank you for your responses and help. I'll most definitely watch if you try it though. Great videos and great channel!
@@StoneyBrownTV Thanks - glad you like the videos. Feel free to ask any ? at all - no matter how silly you think it is - that's how you get good. Like guitar - I've been playing for a long time a still would like someone that is professional show me how to correctly hold the pick. I'll put that video on the list. Jerry
Hi Jerry. I didn't think you could even wet sand and buff single stage?? I thought, once you put your 3 coats on, that was it, what you sprayed is what you ended up with?? I didn't think you could put 2 part clear over single stage. I have a old Plymouth that was sprayed with single stage about 30 years ago and there is some places i do have fix up. Would i be better off sanding the whole car (after I did all the body work) and 2k primer everything, then spray base and clear? Or would i have to go through and strip it to bare metal, 2k primer the whole then base/clear?? I'm just thinking of the thickness of all the paint, and afraid of it cracking. When they sprayed it back in about 89, they used Centari i believe. They went over the original paint and used most of that as a (primer). The amount of rust they cut out of my car was about the size of a human hand and from my car being from 1972 did pretty good as far as rust goes. I use to wash it by hand and waxed it once a week so I think that helped alot, as I did drive drive it during the winter back then, I dont do that know though. Thx Jerry for everything u do, I sure wish I could work with you.
You only have to strip if the paint if is checked (crows feet, etc) , cracking, peeling or basically garbage paint. If it is solid and in good condition, you can just DA sand it, prime and block any body work and bare metal spots. They did the right thing going right over the OEM paint. Old paint can be the best primer. It would be cool for sure to work with you too my friend. Keep me updated and always ask ?s if needed - Jerry
What grit paper ? Obviously not 80 grit
If you don't have much to cut through use 1500 - for a light cut and buff. If you need to cut a little faster try 1200 or even 1000. You can always move to a finer grit after cutting it down with the course grit.
What compound are you using? Thanks.
Meguiar's Ultru Cut Compound - I think the number is 105.
Whats the difference between Ultra Cut 105 and Diamond Cut 2.0? Thanks
Well - first price - the ultra cut is twice the price but it claims to have "super-microabrasive technology" - not sure if that means a lot though. To me they both cut about the same. Can't really tell a difference.
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks once again! As you can tell Im going to try this. Ive worked with paint but Im not a pro and I just bought a 66 Mustang and it needs a few spots fixed. I subscribed to your channel and you are super fast on responses. Ill be in touch and Ill keep watching!!
is there an off the shelf compound youd recommend
Sorry about the late reply - I like Meguires Ultimate Compound - you can get it at an auto parts store.
Dish soap cleans the oil from your hands and debris
Thanks for the info - have a good weekend :)
Yeah do a black panel white so less imperfections
Here's that same panel in red ruclips.net/video/-ykX4DNCcNw/видео.html after this damage ruclips.net/video/0vDCpeZjp8g/видео.html - BTW the original color was grey metallic - I'd say it came out pretty straight. A positive attitude do your life good my friend - have a great weekend :)
Jerry do you recommend this process for newly clear coated surfaces once they cure? I’ve got some dust nibs in my clear coat. Can I sand the fenders with 1500 grit then use the Diamond Cut as you show here to eliminate them?
Absolutely. You can even just sand the nibs individually if you only have a few :)
Is the Meguiars medium cut compound ok to use after wet sanding the orange peel out?
@@andrewbrown1463 You can try it and if it doesn't cut it fast enough for you - move to a courser grit compound. I always start with the fastest cutting compound I can find then move to medium or fine cut.
Jerry-I have finish painting my son car. I painted it with front, rear bumper covers off and hood. What would you recommend. Color sand bumpers and hood off the car or reassemble the car and color sand or sand before reassemble
Thank you Victor
I always try to have as much stuff put together before painting, color sanding, etc. I usually make the mistake of scratching the fresh paint putting it together - that's my reasoning behind that choice. It's up to you though - what ever is going to get the job done easiest.
Thank you Jerry! I really value your opinion.
Victor
@@VictorHernandez-vl3oo I appreciate that Victor - thanks for the comments and support :)
You need a wet sand pad,so you dont leave grooves from fingers
You can do that too but just know that not too many folks use one in a high volume body shop. The trick is to no sand parallel with your fingers but sand in circles or perpendicular to your fingers and in various directions.
What color of white is that paint from paint for cars?
Arctic White - it matches GM white real well - like the white from 90's chevy pickups. It's just plain white - not off white or too brite etc.
Great vid Jerry, the door turned out nice.
Thanks UPK - look forward to your next video
Thank you for the no nonsense easy to follow video.
You're welcome Jim - have a good week :)