Hi Tom, my name is Brian Davies, I got myself a new Car 8 weeks ago, only to have some Tw*! run into the side of it! and then drive off! Cost of the repair!! £500, Not Happy at all, so I started to Look around at a solution to my Predicament, as I had spent all my cash on the new car! and to go thru my Insurance was way to much! Now I came across your sight! among-st some others out their! I was Very Happy how you explain everything! so much so, I went and bought myself a P D R starter kit for £80. And today I had a go at fixing the Dent!!! well after around 4 hours!! of pulling and hammering, I am pleased to say I have a Result! It's not perfect yet! But will Have another two or three hours on it tomorrow. So as a Novice I can say that if people listen to what you have to say! and do not go at it like a bull in a china shop! you will get very pleasing results. So Many thanks Tom, and I will keep watching your sight.
Thanks for getting in touch Brian, I am glad my videos have inspired and given you value and a place to start, getting the last of the damage out known as 'finishing' is always the trickiest and that's where the patience and training really kick in. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!
I have subscribed and enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. Can you focus one discussion on pulling aluminum? More vehicles, including all F150s are made of aluminum. What I have found is that aluminum seems more resistant to pulling. Any help would be appreciated
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoy them and are learning more about PDR. Steel has a memory so its 'easier' to reform it to its former shape where as aluminium doesn't and usually requires more 'working'. Generally with aluminium I use more heat and sharper tips for pushing and also for knocking down than I would with steel, its also easier to put in micro high spots or lows but then harder to remove them so accuracy is key to hitting the centre of either high or low. I hope that helps.
When do you use the dent repair lifter and the repair "bridge? Are they for certain dents in in deferent areas? What about the slope on the front of the roof?
Hi Michael, Yes certain dents in certain areas, it really depends on the effect you need, I use a slide hammer to either reduce large dents quickly or to give me a 'shock' pull. A lifter is great when you have small damage or slight creases as it allows you to control the pull and focus the area you want lifting, where as a bridge is useful across larger damage to allow you to apply pulling tension whilst simultaneously tapping down surrounding tensions spots!
Yes, there are lots of PDR tool suppliers depending on where you are based here are some examples bletools.com/collections/pullers/products/aluminium-dent-puller-with-spring-dampening www.pdrprotools.co.uk/mini-slide-hammer-13kg-p-231.html kecotabs.co.uk/collections/slide-hammers/products/a34m-ultra-spring-dampened-slide-hammer-with-removable-weight
Hi mate, thanks for the vid I learnt a lot. I tried PDR on my car with some minor dents, however I had some issues and I'm wondering if you had any advice. First was the glue was very hard to remove in some cases. Often the tab came off but the glue would remain. Metho didn't seem to help much. Other issue is the glue takes some small paint flecks with it. Is there any way to avoid this? Am I using the wrong glue?
Hi Adam, thanks for your message, what brand of glue are you using? If the paint is original it should never remove the paint finish, this only happens on previously repaired paintwork or if the vehicle itself is old, what year is your car?
@@LearnPDROnline Thanks mate, I'm not sure what the type of glue is. It came with a kit and is kind of off-yellow in colour. To be honest I wouldn't be surprised if it was just craft glue. The paint is original but the car is 34 years old (88) and the paint isn't in great condition (sun damage).
Having the panel somewhere around 20'C is usually pretty good and also the glue hot, its good when it just starts to smoke a little from the gun but not hot enough for the glue to bubble!
Привет, я не уверен в точной рабочей температуре моего клеевого пистолета, но он должен быть достаточно горячим, чтобы клей начал дымить. Рекомендуемая температура на панели составляет около 23 градусов Цельсия, чтобы можно было потянуть за язычок, спасибо.
I have seen online that it has been done successfully but me personally, no I don't generally want to risk melting the film however I have successfully pulled a dent that was on a vinyl stripe a little while ago and the glue process was fine. I cleaned the panel well, waited a little longer for the glue to cool down and it pulled fine, I needed to tap it down a little and the sharper tap downs can create small divots in the film so also need to be careful there. I did also agree with my customer that if it did damage the film they would need to replace it themselves, it is then their choice with a full understanding of the risks involved, hope that helps!
There are a few glues designed specifically for different temperatures but also you can (to a certain degree) control the temperature of your environment with shelter, heat lamps or hot air guns etc to warm the panels, tabs and glue. I am currently using TabWeld (available from TDN Tools and BlackPlaguePDR and most online PDR shops) and am getting on quite well with it although I have not tested it in the cold UK winter yet, My other go to is the High Strength glue from BLETools.com, they have a few options and are reasonably priced...
@@LearnPDROnline cheers I ordered Tab weld and the pink anson to give them a go .... I have been using Pro PDR tools online using their white glue but not finding it very good in this cold weather as work outside
@@andytbaynes I've not tried the Pink Anson so will be interested to know your thoughts on it... Its often tricky getting the temperature right but a bit of trial and error in testing how long to leave the glue on before pulling can make all the difference, with a cold panel outdoors I will always warm the panel first and make sure its clean, then sometimes I will also warm the tab before applying glue. Try leaving for 5 seconds, 10 seconds, 15 and 20 and see what difference each time delay gives make a note too, this should be the easiest way to get to know your glue limitations for the current working temp!
We do have a video on the 'Basic principles of PDR' this briefly explains high spots and low spots ruclips.net/video/i9TQ5myd4NI/видео.html Or you can check out 'The top 7 mistakes made when learning PDR' video which I hope explains some more about learning Paintless Dent Removal ruclips.net/video/JapjUS40Uvk/видео.html
The different colour tabs usually indicate the brand, so the ones shown here for example are 'gang green' smooth series made by Black Plague PDR, Keith Cosentino's creation. Although some manufacturers use multiple different colours and will then be to quickly identify specific tabs within a large selection, so if you have a big selection of tabs you get to know the ones that you need for each type of dent and can identify them quickly...
Hi mate, I’m new to pdr, for some reason my glue sticks very well to the panels but doesn’t stick to the tab very well, is there any advice you could give me as I’m not sure what am I doing wrong
Hi. Thanks for your question. What brand tabs are you using and what glue? I used to use tabs from Wurth and they needed to be scuffed up a bit or lightly scratched for the glue to stick to the tab but now I mostly use Black ice or Gang green (smooth series tabs) and the glue sticks without needing to do this.
Is there some designed in difference between tabs that are color coded? I noticed tabs with different colors in the kit have different texture patterns, maybe to allow different release forces.
Nice video, although I think assessment of the environment would be first to put the right glue in your gun as some clues are better in different environments. Good explanation though.
Thanks, yes the glue type makes a big difference and there are ones for warmer and colder climates it really depends where you are in the world as to choose the best one for your work environment!
@@killerkhan You may not have done anything wrong it could just be that your car has had some previous paint repairs, if the paint work is original and you are using PDR glue it should never pull the paint off, this usually happens when there has been filler or paint work carried out or perhaps incorrect glue?
Buenas noches soy de Colombia y quiero aprender el arte del PDR pero no sé inglés solo español tienen algunos vídeos que me ayuden un abrazo desde Restrepo Meta Colombia
Hola, no hablo español solo inglés, así que todos los videos y la capacitación están en inglés. Utilizo el traductor de Google para copiar y pegar el texto para comprenderlo, espero que algunos de los videos sean explicativos o puedan transcribir el audio, gracias
How long you allow the glue to set really depends on the temperature or environment you are working on and also the brand of the glue you are using. There are a few variables but sometimes it’s a bit of trial and error, if the glue comes straight off the panel or tab it’s usually a sign it’s been left on too long and if it comes off with stringy bits of glue between tab and panel it’s not set long enough, generally I find between 10-20 seconds is usually pretty good!
So is you have enough time, does allowing the glue to cool further after you're done pulling let you remove the tab along with the glue from the car with a final pull?
Yes its easily done, despite my own advice on being careful I still burn myself from time to time, I knelt on the glue gun a while back too and that was a shock, lol
Glue went over the top of tab,,Which you recommended not to do,,, Since using methylated spirit the tags The Tags Hold REALLY WELL.... First 2 never let go,,??..Had to take them off.lol. Thank you,, making my Learning a lot easier..
Hi Kevin, In this video I am actually using a solvent wipe (not a paper towel) designed for this purpose but yes you could also use a microfibre cloth as well!
Hi Bill, yes its generally cheaper too and you can get it from loads of places! Different alcohol based releasing agents do work better/worse with certain glue brands but I generally get on pretty well methylated spirits...
Hi William, In this video I am using an electric glue gun... but yes you can get gas powered and battery powered ones too and they are not too loud... Thanks
Sure, its a solvent based, industrial alcohol product often used for camping stoves, glass cleaning and other household duties. Another product that is similar is bioethanol. If you are unsure it is best to order direct from a PDR specialist such as TDN Tools, Dentcraft or check out this link to Keco - www.kecotabs.com/collections/gpr-cleaning-release-solutions
"Specific glue for paint less dent removal" Thanks for the info as ole. Why would anyone need to know what glue to use? If you were good you wouldn't be worried about some competition.truth
Any dent man that is any good will tell you the type of glue you use makes a huge difference to the damage you are trying to repair, you can get glues that operate better in cold conditions, some designed for hot climates, others for collision damage and some for minor dents so thank you for you sharing your negative ill informed opinions with us all but perhaps leave the advice to those that know something about PDR? And what is the reference to competition about and who is worried about it? Competition is a good thing it means there is a demand for business...
@@LearnPDROnline Advice did I give? I was just giving you a hard time. You aren't the only one who doesn't discuss the glue used. I told my partner watch I will click on this one and he won't even mention glue. Then I hear "glue for dent removal" well no kidding. And you still haven't answered the question. Dent repair should be done in a nice climate controlled area no? And different types of dents now? Why don't you just say it's a trade secret and rather not answer. To answer would be 3 or for words compared how many did you just type to tell me you don't want to answer? And yes that is the biggest 2 questions. Type of glue, and how to remove glue. How too vids don't like. To talk about it. I won't either I guess when I find out. Found some stuff from Brazil that looks promising. And leave it to those who know something about PDR?? HAHA Ok . should we all not know something after watching your vid.?
@@LearnPDROnline I apologize for the name calling. I am usually better than that I was just a little ticked. It's easy to forget there are actually people on the other side of the net.
@@gt4th I am glad you said you were just giving me a hard time, I see now your 'Why would anyone need to know what glue to use?' comment was sarcastic? I don't go into the details of which glue to use, not because its a trade secret or I don't want anyone to know, it does generally depend on what dent you are trying to repair and the climate you are working in so the glue that suits a dent outdoors in London's climate may not be suitable for the same type of dent in Florida's climate. I work outdoors so having the ideal climate for every dent is not possible. If it helps you I personally use the high strength clear glue available from BLE Tools in Bristol in the UK. Its the best glue that I have tried overall. had your comment have asked me what type of glue (like some other comments that I have already answered here on youtube) I would have advised you but instead you chose to 'give me a hard time' and call me an 'as ole' so I responded in the same manner. I am happy to help and advise with any general questions.
@@LearnPDROnline It was sarcasm. I had spent a great deal of time trying to get some glue info with no luck before I clicked on your channel, so I was already a bit frustrated, and the right at the beginning you mentioned the glue without specifics.. I just snapped out a rude comment and put my device down.😎😠 I am well versed i. The Auto body world, and have done quite a bit of PDL using leverage, & hammer . I just was looking to expand my knowledge, maybe make life a little better. Thank you for the Info. Ironic you said Florida, as I am a Floridian! I was going further with the sarcasm last comment and typed in -Teaching this without teaching about the glue is like teaching surgery without teaching anesthesia. Just doesn't quite work the same! Haha. Thanks again man. Cheers. I'll give ya I like & subscribe
Was the kit from a reputable PDR tool supplier or from ebay/amazon? PDR tools are easy to pick up but the skill required to fix dents without making them worse is what takes the most time to learn, have you had any training?
Methylated spirits is called Denatured Alcohol in the states, for anyone wondering. Excellent videos, ty for the lesson
Thanks for your input Thomas and also the positive feedback!
Hi Tom, my name is Brian Davies, I got myself a new Car 8 weeks ago, only to have some Tw*! run into the side of it! and then drive off! Cost of the repair!! £500, Not Happy at all, so I started to Look around at a solution to my Predicament, as I had spent all my cash on the new car! and to go thru my Insurance was way to much! Now I came across your sight! among-st some others out their! I was Very Happy how you explain everything! so much so, I went and bought myself a P D R starter kit for £80. And today I had a go at fixing the Dent!!! well after around 4 hours!! of pulling and hammering, I am pleased to say I have a Result! It's not perfect yet! But will Have another two or three hours on it tomorrow. So as a Novice I can say that if people listen to what you have to say! and do not go at it like a bull in a china shop! you will get very pleasing results. So Many thanks Tom, and I will keep watching your sight.
Thanks for getting in touch Brian, I am glad my videos have inspired and given you value and a place to start, getting the last of the damage out known as 'finishing' is always the trickiest and that's where the patience and training really kick in. Good luck and let us know how it turns out!
Gracias Tom por tu tiempo y tutorial. Muy claro y simple de entender. Felicitaciones
I'm glad you enjoyed it, thank you 🙏
I have subscribed and enjoy your videos and have learned a lot. Can you focus one discussion on pulling aluminum? More vehicles, including all F150s are made of aluminum. What I have found is that aluminum seems more resistant to pulling. Any help would be appreciated
Thank you, I'm glad you enjoy them and are learning more about PDR. Steel has a memory so its 'easier' to reform it to its former shape where as aluminium doesn't and usually requires more 'working'. Generally with aluminium I use more heat and sharper tips for pushing and also for knocking down than I would with steel, its also easier to put in micro high spots or lows but then harder to remove them so accuracy is key to hitting the centre of either high or low. I hope that helps.
When do you use the dent repair lifter and the repair "bridge? Are they for certain dents in in deferent areas? What about the slope on the front of the roof?
Hi Michael, Yes certain dents in certain areas, it really depends on the effect you need, I use a slide hammer to either reduce large dents quickly or to give me a 'shock' pull. A lifter is great when you have small damage or slight creases as it allows you to control the pull and focus the area you want lifting, where as a bridge is useful across larger damage to allow you to apply pulling tension whilst simultaneously tapping down surrounding tensions spots!
very useful video
Thanks George Im glad it helped 👍🏻
Thank you very much. Just bought my kit.
Thanks Tommy, its exciting getting new tools and getting started! There loads of glue pulling videos so keep watching and let us know how you go
Thanks your good great video again 👍
Thanks for watching Bobby and I really appreciate your positive feedback!
Excellent tutorials! Thanks.
Thanks Timothy, I really hope they help explain the process or at least some of the theory!
Can I find slide hammers specifically for pdr?
Yes, there are lots of PDR tool suppliers depending on where you are based here are some examples
bletools.com/collections/pullers/products/aluminium-dent-puller-with-spring-dampening
www.pdrprotools.co.uk/mini-slide-hammer-13kg-p-231.html
kecotabs.co.uk/collections/slide-hammers/products/a34m-ultra-spring-dampened-slide-hammer-with-removable-weight
Yes, plenty , the tip were the cheap one's from harbor freight pdr kit.
Really good information
Thanks mate
Thanks Juan, Glad it helps!
Hi mate, thanks for the vid I learnt a lot.
I tried PDR on my car with some minor dents, however I had some issues and I'm wondering if you had any advice. First was the glue was very hard to remove in some cases. Often the tab came off but the glue would remain. Metho didn't seem to help much.
Other issue is the glue takes some small paint flecks with it.
Is there any way to avoid this? Am I using the wrong glue?
Hi Adam, thanks for your message, what brand of glue are you using? If the paint is original it should never remove the paint finish, this only happens on previously repaired paintwork or if the vehicle itself is old, what year is your car?
@@LearnPDROnline Thanks mate,
I'm not sure what the type of glue is. It came with a kit and is kind of off-yellow in colour. To be honest I wouldn't be surprised if it was just craft glue.
The paint is original but the car is 34 years old (88) and the paint isn't in great condition (sun damage).
So what is the correct temperature???
Having the panel somewhere around 20'C is usually pretty good and also the glue hot, its good when it just starts to smoke a little from the gun but not hot enough for the glue to bubble!
Привет Том, какая оптимальная температура клеевого пистолета должна быть, для правильной работы клея? Спасибо
Привет, я не уверен в точной рабочей температуре моего клеевого пистолета, но он должен быть достаточно горячим, чтобы клей начал дымить. Рекомендуемая температура на панели составляет около 23 градусов Цельсия, чтобы можно было потянуть за язычок, спасибо.
Hey Tom.. can you do a glue pulling on top of 3M film on the front of the vehicle?
I have seen online that it has been done successfully but me personally, no I don't generally want to risk melting the film however I have successfully pulled a dent that was on a vinyl stripe a little while ago and the glue process was fine. I cleaned the panel well, waited a little longer for the glue to cool down and it pulled fine, I needed to tap it down a little and the sharper tap downs can create small divots in the film so also need to be careful there. I did also agree with my customer that if it did damage the film they would need to replace it themselves, it is then their choice with a full understanding of the risks involved, hope that helps!
Thanks! 👍👍💪
No problem Vanessa!
What glue is this? How do I know what to buy since I do not have a PDR store in my area.
Where are you based? Most major PDR tool companies offer worldwide shipping :)
Hi Tom what glue would you recommend for this time of year and best place to go for it ? Thanks
There are a few glues designed specifically for different temperatures but also you can (to a certain degree) control the temperature of your environment with shelter, heat lamps or hot air guns etc to warm the panels, tabs and glue. I am currently using TabWeld (available from TDN Tools and BlackPlaguePDR and most online PDR shops) and am getting on quite well with it although I have not tested it in the cold UK winter yet, My other go to is the High Strength glue from BLETools.com, they have a few options and are reasonably priced...
@@LearnPDROnline cheers I ordered Tab weld and the pink anson to give them a go .... I have been using Pro PDR tools online using their white glue but not finding it very good in this cold weather as work outside
@@andytbaynes I've not tried the Pink Anson so will be interested to know your thoughts on it... Its often tricky getting the temperature right but a bit of trial and error in testing how long to leave the glue on before pulling can make all the difference, with a cold panel outdoors I will always warm the panel first and make sure its clean, then sometimes I will also warm the tab before applying glue. Try leaving for 5 seconds, 10 seconds, 15 and 20 and see what difference each time delay gives make a note too, this should be the easiest way to get to know your glue limitations for the current working temp!
@@LearnPDROnline cheers Tom
Un vídeo sobre la teoría del PDR.
Sería genial.
We do have a video on the 'Basic principles of PDR' this briefly explains high spots and low spots
ruclips.net/video/i9TQ5myd4NI/видео.html
Or you can check out 'The top 7 mistakes made when learning PDR' video which I hope explains some more about learning Paintless Dent Removal
ruclips.net/video/JapjUS40Uvk/видео.html
Does the color of the pull tabs mean anything?
The different colour tabs usually indicate the brand, so the ones shown here for example are 'gang green' smooth series made by Black Plague PDR, Keith Cosentino's creation. Although some manufacturers use multiple different colours and will then be to quickly identify specific tabs within a large selection, so if you have a big selection of tabs you get to know the ones that you need for each type of dent and can identify them quickly...
@@LearnPDROnline thanks.
Hi mate, I’m new to pdr, for some reason my glue sticks very well to the panels but doesn’t stick to the tab very well, is there any advice you could give me as I’m not sure what am I doing wrong
Hi. Thanks for your question. What brand tabs are you using and what glue?
I used to use tabs from Wurth and they needed to be scuffed up a bit or lightly scratched for the glue to stick to the tab but now I mostly use Black ice or Gang green (smooth series tabs) and the glue sticks without needing to do this.
Is there some designed in difference between tabs that are color coded? I noticed tabs with different colors in the kit have different texture patterns, maybe to allow different release forces.
Hermano exelente
Gracias hermano
Nice video, although I think assessment of the environment would be first to put the right glue in your gun as some clues are better in different environments. Good explanation though.
Thanks, yes the glue type makes a big difference and there are ones for warmer and colder climates it really depends where you are in the world as to choose the best one for your work environment!
Thanks, Tom! Your an expert and I enjoy learning from your Great videos.
You are very welcome and I appreciate your positive feedback :)
@@LearnPDROnline my paint came off, what did I do wrong?
@@killerkhan You may not have done anything wrong it could just be that your car has had some previous paint repairs, if the paint work is original and you are using PDR glue it should never pull the paint off, this usually happens when there has been filler or paint work carried out or perhaps incorrect glue?
@@LearnPDROnline when I turned it and the paint started to lift around the edges, my heart dropped. I tried the release agent but it was too late
@@LearnPDROnline prying bars are far safer
Buenas noches soy de Colombia y quiero aprender el arte del PDR pero no sé inglés solo español tienen algunos vídeos que me ayuden un abrazo desde Restrepo Meta Colombia
Hola, no hablo español solo inglés, así que todos los videos y la capacitación están en inglés. Utilizo el traductor de Google para copiar y pegar el texto para comprenderlo, espero que algunos de los videos sean explicativos o puedan transcribir el audio, gracias
You didn't say how long you let it set up...the most important part??
How long you allow the glue to set really depends on the temperature or environment you are working on and also the brand of the glue you are using. There are a few variables but sometimes it’s a bit of trial and error, if the glue comes straight off the panel or tab it’s usually a sign it’s been left on too long and if it comes off with stringy bits of glue between tab and panel it’s not set long enough, generally I find between 10-20 seconds is usually pretty good!
So is you have enough time, does allowing the glue to cool further after you're done pulling let you remove the tab along with the glue from the car with a final pull?
Very clear thank you..Yes I did burn my finger. Lol.
Yes its easily done, despite my own advice on being careful I still burn myself from time to time, I knelt on the glue gun a while back too and that was a shock, lol
Glue went over the top of tab,,Which you recommended not to do,,, Since using methylated spirit the tags The Tags Hold REALLY WELL....
First 2 never let go,,??..Had to take them off.lol.
Thank you,, making my Learning a lot easier..
@@wendywhales2310 I’m glad you’re enjoying the videos and most importantly earning nee skills :)
Wouldn’t a microfibre cloth be better than a paper towel, reduce the risk of scratching.
Hi Kevin, In this video I am actually using a solvent wipe (not a paper towel) designed for this purpose but yes you could also use a microfibre cloth as well!
💚🇬🇧🌱
Hi Tom thanks for the info didn't know that meth worked on glue have only used alcohol.
Hi Bill, yes its generally cheaper too and you can get it from loads of places!
Different alcohol based releasing agents do work better/worse with certain glue brands but I generally get on pretty well methylated spirits...
Really... A gas powered glue gun...??? Be a little loud in a shop enviroment wouldn't it...???
Hi William, In this video I am using an electric glue gun... but yes you can get gas powered and battery powered ones too and they are not too loud... Thanks
Probably butane, not gasoline😅
methylated spirits are what exactly? for foreigners.
edit: spiritus over here
Sure, its a solvent based, industrial alcohol product often used for camping stoves, glass cleaning and other household duties. Another product that is similar is bioethanol. If you are unsure it is best to order direct from a PDR specialist such as TDN Tools, Dentcraft or check out this link to Keco - www.kecotabs.com/collections/gpr-cleaning-release-solutions
"Specific glue for paint less dent removal" Thanks for the info as ole. Why would anyone need to know what glue to use? If you were good you wouldn't be worried about some competition.truth
Any dent man that is any good will tell you the type of glue you use makes a huge difference to the damage you are trying to repair, you can get glues that operate better in cold conditions, some designed for hot climates, others for collision damage and some for minor dents so thank you for you sharing your negative ill informed opinions with us all but perhaps leave the advice to those that know something about PDR? And what is the reference to competition about and who is worried about it? Competition is a good thing it means there is a demand for business...
@@LearnPDROnline Advice did I give? I was just giving you a hard time. You aren't the only one who doesn't discuss the glue used. I told my partner watch I will click on this one and he won't even mention glue. Then I hear "glue for dent removal" well no kidding. And you still haven't answered the question. Dent repair should be done in a nice climate controlled area no? And different types of dents now? Why don't you just say it's a trade secret and rather not answer. To answer would be 3 or for words compared how many did you just type to tell me you don't want to answer? And yes that is the biggest 2 questions. Type of glue, and how to remove glue. How too vids don't like. To talk about it. I won't either I guess when I find out. Found some stuff from Brazil that looks promising. And leave it to those who know something about PDR?? HAHA Ok . should we all not know something after watching your vid.?
@@LearnPDROnline I apologize for the name calling. I am usually better than that I was just a little ticked. It's easy to forget there are actually people on the other side of the net.
@@gt4th I am glad you said you were just giving me a hard time, I see now your 'Why would anyone need to know what glue to use?' comment was sarcastic? I don't go into the details of which glue to use, not because its a trade secret or I don't want anyone to know, it does generally depend on what dent you are trying to repair and the climate you are working in so the glue that suits a dent outdoors in London's climate may not be suitable for the same type of dent in Florida's climate. I work outdoors so having the ideal climate for every dent is not possible. If it helps you I personally use the high strength clear glue available from BLE Tools in Bristol in the UK. Its the best glue that I have tried overall. had your comment have asked me what type of glue (like some other comments that I have already answered here on youtube) I would have advised you but instead you chose to 'give me a hard time' and call me an 'as ole' so I responded in the same manner. I am happy to help and advise with any general questions.
@@LearnPDROnline It was sarcasm. I had spent a great deal of time trying to get some glue info with no luck before I clicked on your channel, so I was already a bit frustrated, and the right at the beginning you mentioned the glue without specifics.. I just snapped out a rude comment and put my device down.😎😠 I am well versed i. The Auto body world, and have done quite a bit of PDL using leverage, & hammer . I just was looking to expand my knowledge, maybe make life a little better. Thank you for the Info. Ironic you said Florida, as I am a Floridian! I was going further with the sarcasm last comment and typed in -Teaching this without teaching about the glue is like teaching surgery without teaching anesthesia. Just doesn't quite work the same! Haha. Thanks again man. Cheers. I'll give ya I like & subscribe
I tried a kit from a store and the tabs are all bad and the tool made the dent worse,my advice is don't use the cheap kit get help at qualified shop.
Was the kit from a reputable PDR tool supplier or from ebay/amazon? PDR tools are easy to pick up but the skill required to fix dents without making them worse is what takes the most time to learn, have you had any training?
captain obvious
Captain Negative
One bad video,just talk