I just ran across this video. Don't need to swap a Toyota engine, but the video is so well done I watched it anyway. No game show host personalities or loud blaring music. Very nice job! Thank you.
I think this is the most in-depth video I have ever seen for a specific vehicle. I can’t really put into words how impressed I am at the quality and thoroughness of this. Very well done sir. Very well done.
Bravo! This guy has the Passion,the Grace and the Balls to do a very difficult job and explain each step in detail. Worthy of a subscription and a thumbs up!
thats very generous of you to share with us this step by step video ,, i know it takes a very Patient man to do all that hard work and get perfect video for all the steps ,, all the best to you sir
Good stuff man, your gonna make me a lot of money at the shop on these. I appreciate you taking the time to log this and give advice. Subscriber earned
Sir. You are without doubt, the best presenter. You were patient, procedural and you described every step with clarity. Thank you very much. I am going to watch it, over and over again.
'09 Lexus RX 350 AWD. Solid video! Most things seem just about spot on for my scenario. One big difference is the trans. AWD owners may need to work Park and neutral for disconnecting the front half shaft (I like to keep my cars in Park with the brake set as much as possible for safety reasons, once the shaft is disconnected Park won't matter). You'll also need to lift the rear of the car for disassembly. After removing the bolts within reach. You'll need to make sure the trans is in neutral and the parking brake is released to turn the rear wheels by hand. This will turn the shaft to access the others. Then, set the parking brake and trans to Park in order to remove the bolts. I thought I could perform the half shaft and converter disconnection in unison. As opposed to a clutch, torque converters are hydraulic components. If there is no fluid and the engine isn't spinning at a certain rpm, there's no pressure to provide resistance. Like the steering shaft, mark orientation on both shafts before removal for reassembly. The half shaft will slide out from the rear of the trans once disconnected. Gear oil will pour from the transfer case. Have a pan ready to catch any spillage. If you can, try to drain transfer case prior. This will prevent any spillage during shaft removal and later during engine removal. At that point you can remove the shift cable. You may want to leave the parking brake set after that. It will help engine clearance to lower the back of the vehicle upon removal. Further, while removing the converter bolts, remove the three 14mm bolts connecting the engine to the bell housing. If I recall correctly, these are the only three that require removal from the engine side. There are the two on either side of the trans cover, then another up and back toward the transfer case. I was able to use a ratchet and some elbow grease for the first two. The last one is hard to reach and there isn't enough space for a 1/4" ratchet. It will require a standard (or possibly ratcheting) 14mm wrench along with some elbow grease and a bit of patience. I skimmed back through the trans converter section and didn't happen to notice a mention of it in the video. Once I had my subframe out and ready for engine removal, I realized I would have to raise the subframe back up to reach them. I managed get it back up, but not before a potentially costly mistake. I tried lifting with my only two floor jacks available before placing them on stands, the subframe rocked of the jacks and fell a short distance, but hard enough to bend a vehicle dolly at one of the casters. I managed to get it back up with the help of an engine hoist and two 300lb cargo straps. hopefully the rest of the driveline and subframe is still in good shape. For the intermediate exhaust pipes, clearance between the engine cradle and transfer case is tight. There are two pieces (one for each bank). You have to remove both piece by piece. I disconnected the front, then the rear. Then, I pulled the rear section out to access the front. Pull the front section back with the newly available working space, then slip out between the subframe. I managed to purge the coolant valve on the front of the block. The back appears to be impossible with the additional equipment from AWD. I will try to purge the rear after removal of the engine, or if I'm lucky, the rear section of mid pipe. The fuel line has two connections. The blue connector by the fuel rails, and a yellow one over the trans, just to the right of the steering column, connected to the metal section of the line. After removing the blue, I realized the mid section might interfere with removal, so I reconnected the blue and disconnected the yellow. I purchased my replacement 2GR from an rx350 with 78k in California. I don't know anything about California emissions equipment, but I do know they are more stringent than my region. Hopefully any additional emissions equipment is tied to the intake, exhaust and computer. All of that will be retained from my vehicle. With any luck the original block is still in good shape and I'll be able to rebuild for the next time. Computer harnesses will require full glove box removal in the RX. Gently pry on the bottom panel below the glove box door to access the bottom left bolt (10mm if I remember correctly). Bottom right bolt is behind the plastic "rocker panel" running up the front of the passenger door to the glove box. You can Gently pry away from the door jam to expose the bolt. You can just barely fit a 1/4" drive ratchet and short (10mm) socket to remove (a slimmer 10mm wrench would help prevent breakage of the panel, but require more patience). Then remove the two Phillip's screws at the top left and right. If necessary open the glove box door and turn the two swing stops then disengage for full box door articulation. I don't think it's necessary. I only did so before realizing the glove box had a back wall. It's a good idea to be mindful of the box door return cable, glove box light harness, harness for the bottom panel and any connections for the airbag, but they don't really interfere. I have the three harnesses running to the bottom three ports of the computer, then a brown and blue harness to the right. I had to remove the vinyl insulator sleeve to clear the port to the engine bay. Just enough space in between the computer and the fan box. You'll have to do a little digging for snags as you feed the harness out. Fuse box in the engine bay is nearly the same as the video. I had to remove two harnesses behind the headlight. I believe these are for the adaptive lighting. It appears the passenger headlight harness runs along the firewall from the fuse box. With any luck I can avoid removing that harness. I see one line so far up front for the power steering. Looks like the return line. I see the main line running to the pump. The feed line runs up and over the back side of the engine (metal line with a foil insulator sleeve just along the back of the engine running up from the pump, then bare line above and running down by the steering shaft input). The line is free from the body, but may interfere with removal depending on how high you can manage to lift the vehicle. Once you have the engine down, you may be able to disconnect at the mounting brackets and wiggle it through. I had to pull the engine and trans dipsticks, as well as a coil harness, or two. Just a few minor differences nearly half way into my engine swap. I admit this is a rather extensive comment. I tried searching for removal videos for the RX to no avail. I just wanted to document my findings for anyone in a similar situation. I couldn't get the top bracket of the "front" mount off (passenger side mounts to front of motor). If you disconnect the front subframe mount and rear passenger side mount (17mm by power steering pump) then lift the engine, this will release the top bracket of the mount. This video has been an excellent resource! Thanks for the help!
I found this video because The Car Care Nut mentioned that someone on RUclips did a 2gr engine removal without a car lift. Very impressive what you have done: both the fact that you did it, and that you caught the eye of a big time youtuber (a professional Toyota certified mechanic with a working shop) .
Your video helped me tremendously! Thank you for sharing! One a little hint for other viewers - when I disconnected something (pipes, connectors, clips etc.) I put two same numbers on each end. It makes it a lot easier to reconnect them back. Also take many pictures and do the video!
I watched the video this morning as a "pre game" warm-up....... I ended up pulling the engine/trans/subframe and everything else in about 6 hours. Geez what an ordeal. Thankfully, I have my own lift and was able to lift the van up & away from everything......I'm swapping this V6 engine into my little 3 door manual trans Rav4. 💀😆😁
Great video. Not many engine removal videos out there would show details such as bolts inside the transmission must also removed to fully disconnect the engine from transmission . They usually just show the steps where engine is separated from the transmission and lack the details. I'm not doing the engine removal on my car but its definitely a pleasure watching your work. Thanks man
Thanks for the insight and fostering confidence. I have the same engine in my car and need to reseal the timing cover. I have been looking for examples of people dropping engines without the use of a lift. This is by far the best example of the process I have seen yet. The fact that this is the engine I will be working with is just icing on the cake. Looks like I will be investing in another floor jack. The similarities between the two cars was uncanny.
Seen the feed I really enjoy this because it's very professional y done straight forward and to the point this guy is pretty good and explains everything as he gos through it ..way to go nice job
Very good video ... Many Thanks... After looking at many videos and reviewing most of the manuals and documented results.... I chose to remove the Wiper cowling, the Front bumper and headlights and the radiator assembly and swing the engine out the front of the vehicle (watch the windshield). I did remove the intake manifold to make removing the harness easier in my specific case, however if one is removing the engine out the bottom of the vehicle the harness can remain attached as it was during factory installation
I performed this engine removal on a 2008 sienna. My only comments are as follows. I had the identical problem with my engine frame, it required quit a bit of penetrating oil, as well as hammering the passengers side rear mount bushing up and prying it downward (back and forth), until the rusted parts came loose (it probably took 10 hours to get the parts to separate)......... I followed the Toyota manual and removed my front bumper and headlight assemblies, which provided me improved access to many of the engine components which needed removal ......... Jacking the vehicle high in the air is not exaggerated. One will need to get the engine high enough to clear the intake plenum, which can require the front of the vehicle be raised about 5 ft or more. Removing the bumper cover will allow one to access the front bumper so they can lift the vehicle front with an engine hoist of chain fall, which I think is far safer than using jacks side to side. ------------------- Follow this video for removing the wiring harness and the engine. Attempting to remove the engine alone will be far more difficult as it requires access to and removal of the wiring harness, and attachment bolts.... Further removal of the engine alone is very difficult as there is little room to remove the engine alone without damaging the condenser coil or the windshield .... it can be done but its extremely difficult.......... Driveway mechanics should expect 2-3 days time to be spent removing the engine for these later model Sienna vans.
thank you. i had the very same problem with the rusted dowels. done many transverse swaps and could not figure out why the rear would not drop. subd and liked thanks again for putting this on here
Take a brush and dip it into that used transmission fluid and brush all those areas that are wanting to get rusty it will add extra protection and stop rust from advancing
Damn, nice job bro! I have a 2grfe and mostly came across this video out of curiosity. My timing cover leaks very slowly but that isn't enough for me to warrant paying $2500 or whatever to have a shop fix it. Unfortunately I don't have a lift and I'm not sure I have the cajones to attempt your method. Great video!
Same with me 2GR FE 260k KM, wet found there, no dripping. Might use some engine oil sealant to try to stop it, otherwise, might need to drop it with a hoist next year following Happywrenching's video, may need to watch at least 10 times and make a check points.
Thanks! Went to my local mechanic and had him crack every major underside bolt in advance - mounts, exhaust, struts, etc. Should make this much easier. I think the trickiest part is actually managing the floor jacks to drop the sub-frame. It looks like you had one in the center of the front frame, and one at the driver's rear corner mount point. Somehow you were able to balance this coming down on 2 points, not 3! Could you comment more on jack placement and what it was like to let each down alternately? Did it ever get tippy?
Dennis Felling - it was definitely tricky but it helped to have three jacks. One in the center and one on each side of the rear. Can it be done with 2? Probably. But I would have an extra person keeping an eye on it. Hope it works out for you :)
Great vid. I am about to do this job for the second time. I was hoping to see a version where the tranny stayed in. Rack too. Yours was the way I did it the first time. Be sure to really torque those 4 corner sub bolts you will get a mysterious clunk clunk to chase down
great video thanks I have a question I need to just replace my transmission on a 2011 avalon should I just take down the sub frame with the engine it looks much easier .
Great video this is the first video that describes what to do? I assume that if you do not use the drop method, you can just pull straight up with a hoist
I just found you happy wrenching, thank you for the helpful video, you are a highly skilled mechanic. IM sure the owner evaluated the total installed cost, versus value of the vehicle. If its 50% or more, not sure if its worth it. A significant % of these engine changes the vehicle is not the same. But for those on a budget, I suppose its a necessity to perform the repair
13:36 There is always that one damn bolt that makes the job hell while the rest is piece of cake! LOL // Would love to see an 04 Pacifica 3.5L V6 engine swap. Great channel and great videos! Thanks. ~John
Great video! Will this method of removing the undercarriage /motor assembly work for the 2013 generation Siennas. In other words, will the assembly also fit through the wheel well? Thanks!
If you remove enough stuff, is it POSSIBLE to pull this engine from the TOP? This 'dropping' the engine looks like a nightmare! If there enough clearance to actually hoist it out of the TOP of the hood?
Like the process--i am trying to see if I pull through the top and think it will be simpler for me to do that way... only thing I am worried about is rusty exhaust.... thanks much!
Im looking for a easy couple hours remove and swap with another toyota 3.6 V6 2007 avalon video. This could be used as reference but dont have those tools or time
Ty for the video! Now, do you have one where you put it back in? We are having trouble getting the subframe bolts back in now that the engine is repaired. It's been a few months since we took it out.
Very good video, no wasted talk, what cause you to have to replace the engine? I heard they will run forever with very little problems. Thanks for the video TC
It really is a great engine. They are known for piston knock and this one in particular had very loud piston knock. Plus it was leaking oil in many places. Decided it was better to just replace the engine with another low mileage engine. The replacement engine was silent.
@@happywrenching My 07 Sienna with th 3.5 sounds like a clanky diesel at startup in cold winter weather..stays around until the engine is warmed up all the way. It does not leak oil. If I may ask is this something I should be concerned about in the long term of this vehicle? Been driving it this way from 83K to now 143K and it hasn't gotten any worse.....yet.....but wondering if I should get rid of the vehicle before it does?
@@Blahbevava My opinion is that if its not consuming too much oil between oil changes and has no leaks then keep driving it. I think the transmission will give out before the engine does.
I have a 2006 sienna with a 3.3l. Do you happen to know if these 3.5L Rav 4 engines would still swap out with a 2006 sienna? If so, what year engines would work? Great video. Thank you
EPIC!! Thanks soo much! I have to change a head gasket on a Toyota Aurion which has the 3.5L 2GRFE. Crazy thing is the whole engine has to come out to replace the head gasket :S Never pulled out such a complex motor before. Your video helps me feel more confident taking on the job, excellent video work and filming angles. If you have the old engine laying around, can you can do a video on steps to remove the heads? Im worried about timing chains. Will attempt the job in a the next day or 2.
+Kyle the Mechanic Thanks for stopping by. You are not the first person to ask about the taking off the heads on this engine - unfortunately I don't have the old engine so I can't do a video.
Thanks a lot for the video, could I please convert to stick manual transmission on this Toyota sienna 2GR ENGINE if so which Toyota model with stick shift can be used, I was able to convert Toyota sienna 3mz using the Toyota previa stick manual transmission gear box, I will really appreciate your reply on the 2GR.
the earlier ones (07/08/09) were prone to startup rattle intake cam gear problem - $5k fix.... also lots have piston slap and sound like a big '0l deisel.
@@rickc2222 I have an 07 Sienna and it does just as you described..mainly in cold weather it will sound rough and sound like a diesel until the engine is all the way warmed up. I've been driving it this way from 83K when I bought it until now at 143K and haven't had any failures or anything yet. Do you know if this is a problem I should be concerned with in the long term?
@@Blahbevava I honestly dont know. I was getting Check engine codes as well...had paid a mechanic to fix it and he failed after 3 tries, I just could not live with it, the rattle kept getting worse...I got rid of it but I lost a lot of $$$ on that vehicle....looking for a v8 4runner now, or a cheap ass tahoe i can just throw in the gutter if it dies on me.. I am done with any toyota with that series v6...my wife had a highlander with v6 that also rattled....super well cared for, regular oil changes.
@@rickc2222 Thanks very much for your input. I've had no engine codes on mine and it hasn't gotten any worse in all this time but I will have to consider getting rid of it. Thing has honestly been a bit of a money pit to own as I honestly don't know why people consider these Toyota Sienna vans of this generation all that reliable. This Sienna has cost a me a lot more to own in repairs every year than my last Oldsmobile LS GM car ever did! The 3.8 V6 motor on those things were strong, smooth, and never missed a beat even in the cold dead of winter. It's only flaw was the intake manifold gasket and some wheel bearing issues. Other then that it ran like a top with regular maintenance. Anyhow...Thanks again.
Am using Toyota 1998 sienna v6 engine but now I want to use four cylinder with my sienna transmission, so pls what Toyota four cylinder engine will march the sienna transmission.?
@@leadingauctions8440 You can do this with regular wrenches and breaker bars but a 1/2 impact wrench will save you a lot of time and frustration when working with bigger nuts and bolts.
Great video But my question. I have a 2011 Toyota RAV4 sport V6 my bearings went bad in my front transfer case and I have to replace it. and I can't find any videos on how to remove it. I'm trying to do it myself, Can I replace the front transfer case without taking out the engine and transmission?
hey, excelent video, I have the same situation, i have a sienna 2008 with 2grfe but it´s gone, it´s broken, I found 2grfe to one donator highlander 2015 what do you think?
Once I remove the 12mm bolt on the steering shaft/coupler, do I just need to tap it "up" to get it disconnected or tap down as the subframe is being lowered? I can't tell if there is enough flex/room to hit it up and off with the subframe still connected.
If you are talking about the coupler that connects the steering shaft to the steering rack then the only way is to tap it up. It does have room to go up.
Perfect, thanks, that’s exactly what I meant. I didn’t try real hard, just a few taps and stopped to check. I’m doing the swap now on an AWD Highlander and kept checking your video and wondering why you “skipped” removing the driveshaft. It took me a few minutes to go duh, he doesn’t have one with FWD!
did the both engines have oil coolers? i have similar issue with very hard/loud knocking. im able to source the non-oil cooler engine though mine has the engine oil cooler option. what're your thoughts on the swap? is it possible to swap my o.c. over to the non-o.c. engine? thank you
Hello There!!!!! First let me say that's the best video I've seen on replacing the engine . I have a question for you and I've search for answers but so far i still don't have any. I have a 06 Rav4 4wd 2.4L engine 2AZ-FE and I'm trying to replace the engine cause of a really loud knock. It seems like the there's a few cars with that same engine but the rav4 is more expensive than the rest of them. What is the difference and which would fit my rav4? Thank you for taking the time
+Frank Murray I don't have first hand experience with the 3MZ-FE but according to the service manual the process looks very similar. There are some small differences such as the front mount and some of the hoses.
+happywrenching Thanks. One more question: if you're dropping the engine and transmission together as a unit, why are you removing the torque converter bolts? The engine I'm removing is seized- don't think turning the crankshaft by hand is an option :-S
+Frank Murray Because I will need to separate the engine from the transmission. Once everything is on the ground, I will remove the old engine and install the new engine but still use the same transmission with the new engine. I've got a video on this coming out in a day or two. If you can't rotate the crank then you will have to separate the engine with the torque converter still attached to the flexplate. You will need to remove the crankshaft (with torque converter attached). After that you will be able to remove all the bolts and reuse the torque converter, if that is what you want.
Thanks for this video. I have been researching how to change the rear spark plugs, and was wondering if a partial dropping of the engine is a viable way to go about it. What do you think? I used to have a Chevy Venture where the expected procedure was to unbolt an engine mount, and then rotate the motor forward for access to the rear bank.
all this in nutshell: put cup under anything that can be drain it unplug any thing connected to the engine and pull it out and wait for the new engine to arrive broken.
So how long did it take to get the engine out (approx number of hours). How long to get the new engine transferred to the old sub frame? And how long to get it back in? I am considering this job, have done an engine before but did it all from the top on a jeep. this looks like lots more work. Thanks for the video, I am considering the swap just because of your video.
Hi, it is for sure a lot of work. According to the service manual, book time for this job is around 21 hours. The hardest and longest part is the removal because you have to deal with stuck bolts/nuts, hoses, etc. I'd say that it took me about 14 hours total to remove. Another 8 to transfer. And 8 to install and fill everything. That's with working the camera. Installation went surprisingly quick. Good luck!
Wish I had a better answer for you but I worked on this a few hours each evening for over a week. Took my time and of-course filming took time as well. Good luck!
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I just ran across this video. Don't need to swap a Toyota engine, but the video is so well done I watched it anyway. No game show host personalities or loud blaring music. Very nice job! Thank you.
I think this is the most in-depth video I have ever seen for a specific vehicle. I can’t really put into words how impressed I am at the quality and thoroughness of this. Very well done sir. Very well done.
Bravo! This guy has the Passion,the Grace and the Balls to do a very difficult job and explain each step in detail. Worthy of a subscription and a thumbs up!
Sudden new respect for auto mechanics after watching this.
thats very generous of you to share with us this step by step video ,, i know it takes a very Patient man to do all that hard work and get perfect video for all the steps ,, all the best to you sir
mohamed alfalasi - I had a lot of free time at that point :) glad you enjoyed the video.
This is also a message to do the Lexus RX 350
amazing video! finally someone who is not so in love with his own voice he makes a 20 minute video last 2 hours!
Good stuff man, your gonna make me a lot of money at the shop on these. I appreciate you taking the time to log this and give advice. Subscriber earned
Sir. You are without doubt, the best presenter. You were patient, procedural and you described every step with clarity. Thank you very much. I am going to watch it, over and over again.
Yes, watch it over and over! Increase the views lol
Your videos were a godsend. I had a mechanic do my swap and didn't label anything. Your videos helped me find exactly where everything needed to go.
'09 Lexus RX 350 AWD. Solid video! Most things seem just about spot on for my scenario. One big difference is the trans. AWD owners may need to work Park and neutral for disconnecting the front half shaft (I like to keep my cars in Park with the brake set as much as possible for safety reasons, once the shaft is disconnected Park won't matter). You'll also need to lift the rear of the car for disassembly. After removing the bolts within reach. You'll need to make sure the trans is in neutral and the parking brake is released to turn the rear wheels by hand. This will turn the shaft to access the others. Then, set the parking brake and trans to Park in order to remove the bolts. I thought I could perform the half shaft and converter disconnection in unison. As opposed to a clutch, torque converters are hydraulic components. If there is no fluid and the engine isn't spinning at a certain rpm, there's no pressure to provide resistance. Like the steering shaft, mark orientation on both shafts before removal for reassembly. The half shaft will slide out from the rear of the trans once disconnected. Gear oil will pour from the transfer case. Have a pan ready to catch any spillage. If you can, try to drain transfer case prior. This will prevent any spillage during shaft removal and later during engine removal. At that point you can remove the shift cable. You may want to leave the parking brake set after that. It will help engine clearance to lower the back of the vehicle upon removal. Further, while removing the converter bolts, remove the three 14mm bolts connecting the engine to the bell housing. If I recall correctly, these are the only three that require removal from the engine side. There are the two on either side of the trans cover, then another up and back toward the transfer case. I was able to use a ratchet and some elbow grease for the first two. The last one is hard to reach and there isn't enough space for a 1/4" ratchet. It will require a standard (or possibly ratcheting) 14mm wrench along with some elbow grease and a bit of patience. I skimmed back through the trans converter section and didn't happen to notice a mention of it in the video. Once I had my subframe out and ready for engine removal, I realized I would have to raise the subframe back up to reach them. I managed get it back up, but not before a potentially costly mistake. I tried lifting with my only two floor jacks available before placing them on stands, the subframe rocked of the jacks and fell a short distance, but hard enough to bend a vehicle dolly at one of the casters. I managed to get it back up with the help of an engine hoist and two 300lb cargo straps. hopefully the rest of the driveline and subframe is still in good shape. For the intermediate exhaust pipes, clearance between the engine cradle and transfer case is tight. There are two pieces (one for each bank). You have to remove both piece by piece. I disconnected the front, then the rear. Then, I pulled the rear section out to access the front. Pull the front section back with the newly available working space, then slip out between the subframe. I managed to purge the coolant valve on the front of the block. The back appears to be impossible with the additional equipment from AWD. I will try to purge the rear after removal of the engine, or if I'm lucky, the rear section of mid pipe. The fuel line has two connections. The blue connector by the fuel rails, and a yellow one over the trans, just to the right of the steering column, connected to the metal section of the line. After removing the blue, I realized the mid section might interfere with removal, so I reconnected the blue and disconnected the yellow. I purchased my replacement 2GR from an rx350 with 78k in California. I don't know anything about California emissions equipment, but I do know they are more stringent than my region. Hopefully any additional emissions equipment is tied to the intake, exhaust and computer. All of that will be retained from my vehicle. With any luck the original block is still in good shape and I'll be able to rebuild for the next time. Computer harnesses will require full glove box removal in the RX. Gently pry on the bottom panel below the glove box door to access the bottom left bolt (10mm if I remember correctly). Bottom right bolt is behind the plastic "rocker panel" running up the front of the passenger door to the glove box. You can Gently pry away from the door jam to expose the bolt. You can just barely fit a 1/4" drive ratchet and short (10mm) socket to remove (a slimmer 10mm wrench would help prevent breakage of the panel, but require more patience). Then remove the two Phillip's screws at the top left and right. If necessary open the glove box door and turn the two swing stops then disengage for full box door articulation. I don't think it's necessary. I only did so before realizing the glove box had a back wall. It's a good idea to be mindful of the box door return cable, glove box light harness, harness for the bottom panel and any connections for the airbag, but they don't really interfere. I have the three harnesses running to the bottom three ports of the computer, then a brown and blue harness to the right. I had to remove the vinyl insulator sleeve to clear the port to the engine bay. Just enough space in between the computer and the fan box. You'll have to do a little digging for snags as you feed the harness out. Fuse box in the engine bay is nearly the same as the video. I had to remove two harnesses behind the headlight. I believe these are for the adaptive lighting. It appears the passenger headlight harness runs along the firewall from the fuse box. With any luck I can avoid removing that harness. I see one line so far up front for the power steering. Looks like the return line. I see the main line running to the pump. The feed line runs up and over the back side of the engine (metal line with a foil insulator sleeve just along the back of the engine running up from the pump, then bare line above and running down by the steering shaft input). The line is free from the body, but may interfere with removal depending on how high you can manage to lift the vehicle. Once you have the engine down, you may be able to disconnect at the mounting brackets and wiggle it through. I had to pull the engine and trans dipsticks, as well as a coil harness, or two. Just a few minor differences nearly half way into my engine swap. I admit this is a rather extensive comment. I tried searching for removal videos for the RX to no avail. I just wanted to document my findings for anyone in a similar situation. I couldn't get the top bracket of the "front" mount off (passenger side mounts to front of motor). If you disconnect the front subframe mount and rear passenger side mount (17mm by power steering pump) then lift the engine, this will release the top bracket of the mount. This video has been an excellent resource! Thanks for the help!
Man I’m impressed. I thought it would be impossible to remove the 2gre-fe engine at home but I have been proved wrong. Great job
Excellent video. Came to see how you disconnected the fuel line but stayed and watched the whole thing. Happy Motoring.
I found this video because The Car Care Nut mentioned that someone on RUclips did a 2gr engine removal without a car lift. Very impressive what you have done: both the fact that you did it, and that you caught the eye of a big time youtuber (a professional Toyota certified mechanic with a working shop) .
Your video helped me tremendously! Thank you for sharing! One a little hint for other viewers - when I disconnected something (pipes, connectors, clips etc.) I put two same numbers on each end. It makes it a lot easier to reconnect them back. Also take many pictures and do the video!
I watched the video this morning as a "pre game" warm-up....... I ended up pulling the engine/trans/subframe and everything else in about 6 hours. Geez what an ordeal. Thankfully, I have my own lift and was able to lift the van up & away from everything......I'm swapping this V6 engine into my little 3 door manual trans Rav4. 💀😆😁
That's a fun swap! Gonna be a rocket once it's up and running.
Thank you for the video on the engine..watched video several times
I replaced the engine in my 2007 Toyota Camry and this helped
Great video. Not many engine removal videos out there would show details such as bolts inside the transmission must also removed to fully disconnect the engine from transmission . They usually just show the steps where engine is separated from the transmission and lack the details. I'm not doing the engine removal on my car but its definitely a pleasure watching your work. Thanks man
If the transmission was removed with the engine why did he remove those flywheel bolts for?
Props to you for doing it all by yourself while still filming everything! Excellent video.
Very impressive, all the details explained. As I may need to change the 2GR FE timing chain cover gasket, so far it's wet there no dripping oil.
Thanks for the insight and fostering confidence. I have the same engine in my car and need to reseal the timing cover. I have been looking for examples of people dropping engines without the use of a lift. This is by far the best example of the process I have seen yet. The fact that this is the engine I will be working with is just icing on the cake. Looks like I will be investing in another floor jack. The similarities between the two cars was uncanny.
Nice, should be straight forward if all you need to do is drop the whole assembly to access the timing cover.
Seen the feed I really enjoy this because it's very professional y done straight forward and to the point this guy is pretty good and explains everything as he gos through it ..way to go nice job
Very good video ... Many Thanks... After looking at many videos and reviewing most of the manuals and documented results.... I chose to remove the Wiper cowling, the Front bumper and headlights and the radiator assembly and swing the engine out the front of the vehicle (watch the windshield). I did remove the intake manifold to make removing the harness easier in my specific case, however if one is removing the engine out the bottom of the vehicle the harness can remain attached as it was during factory installation
Good video, well shot and clear audio nice job.
Insanely detail and vivid video, I wonder how many times he's done this
I performed this engine removal on a 2008 sienna. My only comments are as follows. I had the identical problem with my engine frame, it required quit a bit of penetrating oil, as well as hammering the passengers side rear mount bushing up and prying it downward (back and forth), until the rusted parts came loose (it probably took 10 hours to get the parts to separate).........
I followed the Toyota manual and removed my front bumper and headlight assemblies, which provided me improved access to many of the engine components which needed removal .........
Jacking the vehicle high in the air is not exaggerated. One will need to get the engine high enough to clear the intake plenum, which can require the front of the vehicle be raised about 5 ft or more. Removing the bumper cover will allow one to access the front bumper so they can lift the vehicle front with an engine hoist of chain fall, which I think is far safer than using jacks side to side.
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Follow this video for removing the wiring harness and the engine. Attempting to remove the engine alone will be far more difficult as it requires access to and removal of the wiring harness, and attachment bolts.... Further removal of the engine alone is very difficult as there is little room to remove the engine alone without damaging the condenser coil or the windshield .... it can be done but its extremely difficult..........
Driveway mechanics should expect 2-3 days time to be spent removing the engine for these later model Sienna vans.
thank you. i had the very same problem with the rusted dowels. done many transverse swaps and could not figure out why the rear would not drop. subd and liked thanks again for putting this on here
Great video! Thanks for letting me know the piece of steel I drove over ten years
Awesome video! Definitely will help when I eventually have to drop the 2gr in my Avalon
Very nice work and great video editing skills. No fluff.
Take a brush and dip it into that used transmission fluid and brush all those areas that are wanting to get rusty it will add extra protection and stop rust from advancing
Very straightforward and to the Point great video
Thank you and ill be watching
Brooo, you should have been a DOCTOR not a mechanic. Thank you so much for this great video!
My hat goes off to you young man.
Damn, nice job bro! I have a 2grfe and mostly came across this video out of curiosity. My timing cover leaks very slowly but that isn't enough for me to warrant paying $2500 or whatever to have a shop fix it. Unfortunately I don't have a lift and I'm not sure I have the cajones to attempt your method. Great video!
Yeah looking back at it now, it’s a sketchy method. If I did this again, would definitely have more safe guards in place.
Same with me 2GR FE 260k KM, wet found there, no dripping. Might use some engine oil sealant to try to stop it, otherwise, might need to drop it with a hoist next year following Happywrenching's video, may need to watch at least 10 times and make a check points.
Thanks! Went to my local mechanic and had him crack every major underside bolt in advance - mounts, exhaust, struts, etc. Should make this much easier. I think the trickiest part is actually managing the floor jacks to drop the sub-frame. It looks like you had one in the center of the front frame, and one at the driver's rear corner mount point. Somehow you were able to balance this coming down on 2 points, not 3! Could you comment more on jack placement and what it was like to let each down alternately? Did it ever get tippy?
Dennis Felling - it was definitely tricky but it helped to have three jacks. One in the center and one on each side of the rear. Can it be done with 2? Probably. But I would have an extra person keeping an eye on it. Hope it works out for you :)
Have you done the transmission on these? Im having a hard time taking out the transmission.
Wow 👏👏 subscribing fast to your channel. Well done 👍
Great vid. I am about to do this job for the second time. I was hoping to see a version where the tranny stayed in. Rack too. Yours was the way I did it the first time. Be sure to really torque those 4 corner sub bolts you will get a mysterious clunk clunk to chase down
great video thanks I have a question I need to just replace my transmission on a 2011 avalon should I just take down the sub frame with the engine it looks much easier .
Incredible! Thanks for sharing and detail instructions.
Great video this is the first video that describes what to do? I assume that if you do not use the drop method, you can just pull straight up with a hoist
I just found you happy wrenching, thank you for the helpful video, you are a highly skilled mechanic. IM sure the owner evaluated the total installed cost, versus value of the vehicle. If its 50% or more, not sure if its worth it. A significant % of these engine changes the vehicle is not the same. But for those on a budget, I suppose its a necessity to perform the repair
13:36 There is always that one damn bolt that makes the job hell while the rest is piece of cake! LOL // Would love to see an 04 Pacifica 3.5L V6 engine swap. Great channel and great videos! Thanks. ~John
You must be a Toyota expert
this video was well worth watching
Great video! Will this method of removing the undercarriage /motor assembly work for the 2013 generation Siennas. In other words, will the assembly also fit through the wheel well? Thanks!
If you remove enough stuff, is it POSSIBLE to pull this engine from the TOP? This 'dropping' the engine looks like a nightmare!
If there enough clearance to actually hoist it out of the TOP of the hood?
Like the process--i am trying to see if I pull through the top and think it will be simpler for me to do that way... only thing I am worried about is rusty exhaust.... thanks much!
Im looking for a easy couple hours remove and swap with another toyota 3.6
V6 2007 avalon video. This could be used as reference but dont have those tools or time
Just came upon this. Nice video. About how many inches did you have to raise the vehicle to be able to slide the engine out?
A lot of work and planning. Just for curiosity sake,what was wrong with the original engine?
Ty for the video! Now, do you have one where you put it back in? We are having trouble getting the subframe bolts back in now that the engine is repaired. It's been a few months since we took it out.
Here is the install - ruclips.net/video/nD-BR2jIZuw/видео.html
Very good video, no wasted talk, what cause you to have to replace the engine? I heard they will run forever with very little problems. Thanks for the video TC
It really is a great engine. They are known for piston knock and this one in particular had very loud piston knock. Plus it was leaking oil in many places. Decided it was better to just replace the engine with another low mileage engine. The replacement engine was silent.
@@happywrenching My 07 Sienna with th 3.5 sounds like a clanky diesel at startup in cold winter weather..stays around until the engine is warmed up all the way. It does not leak oil. If I may ask is this something I should be concerned about in the long term of this vehicle? Been driving it this way from 83K to now 143K and it hasn't gotten any worse.....yet.....but wondering if I should get rid of the vehicle before it does?
@@Blahbevava My opinion is that if its not consuming too much oil between oil changes and has no leaks then keep driving it. I think the transmission will give out before the engine does.
@@happywrenching Appreciate your input...Thank-You!
@@happywrenchingI currently have what I think is a rear main seal oil leak. Did yours have that? If so how bad was it?
Great Job! How high did you have to go to get the engine out?
I have a 2006 sienna with a 3.3l. Do you happen to know if these 3.5L Rav 4 engines would still swap out with a 2006 sienna? If so, what year engines would work? Great video. Thank you
Question: Would wouldn't you top pull it? Is it the type of car?
EPIC!! Thanks soo much!
I have to change a head gasket on a Toyota Aurion which has the 3.5L 2GRFE.
Crazy thing is the whole engine has to come out to replace the head gasket :S
Never pulled out such a complex motor before. Your video helps me feel more confident taking on the job, excellent video work and filming angles.
If you have the old engine laying around, can you can do a video on steps to remove the heads? Im worried about timing chains. Will attempt the job in a the next day or 2.
+Kyle the Mechanic Thanks for stopping by. You are not the first person to ask about the taking off the heads on this engine - unfortunately I don't have the old engine so I can't do a video.
Thanks a lot for the video, could I please convert to stick manual transmission on this Toyota sienna 2GR ENGINE if so which Toyota model with stick shift can be used, I was able to convert Toyota sienna 3mz using the Toyota previa stick manual transmission gear box, I will really appreciate your reply on the 2GR.
The video was uploaded in 2016 for a 2009 Toyota Sienna!! Why on Earth such a strong engine needs to be removed after only 8 years in service???
the earlier ones (07/08/09) were prone to startup rattle intake cam gear problem - $5k fix.... also lots have piston slap and sound like a big '0l deisel.
@@rickc2222 I have an 07 Sienna and it does just as you described..mainly in cold weather it will sound rough and sound like a diesel until the engine is all the way warmed up. I've been driving it this way from 83K when I bought it until now at 143K and haven't had any failures or anything yet. Do you know if this is a problem I should be concerned with in the long term?
@@Blahbevava I honestly dont know. I was getting Check engine codes as well...had paid a mechanic to fix it and he failed after 3 tries, I just could not live with it, the rattle kept getting worse...I got rid of it but I lost a lot of $$$ on that vehicle....looking for a v8 4runner now, or a cheap ass tahoe i can just throw in the gutter if it dies on me.. I am done with any toyota with that series v6...my wife had a highlander with v6 that also rattled....super well cared for, regular oil changes.
@@rickc2222 Thanks very much for your input. I've had no engine codes on mine and it hasn't gotten any worse in all this time but I will have to consider getting rid of it. Thing has honestly been a bit of a money pit to own as I honestly don't know why people consider these Toyota Sienna vans of this generation all that reliable. This Sienna has cost a me a lot more to own in repairs every year than my last Oldsmobile LS GM car ever did! The 3.8 V6 motor on those things were strong, smooth, and never missed a beat even in the cold dead of winter. It's only flaw was the intake manifold gasket and some wheel bearing issues. Other then that it ran like a top with regular maintenance. Anyhow...Thanks again.
Thanks for the information really helpful
Am using Toyota 1998 sienna v6 engine but now I want to use four cylinder with my sienna transmission, so pls what Toyota four cylinder engine will march the sienna transmission.?
Thank u for the information , from which place u recommend to buy the engine thanks.
How long does it take to do this ?
Can i take out the engine from the top without taking out the subframe?i dont need the trans and axles.
What kind of gun did he use for the engine mounts?
That’s an Ingersoll Rand air impact gun. This video is old and any of todays 1/2 electric impact wrenches easily outperform it.
@@happywrenching
@happywrenching
So what I need to be able to do this on my Toyota is a 1/2 Electric impact wrench?
@@leadingauctions8440 You can do this with regular wrenches and breaker bars but a 1/2 impact wrench will save you a lot of time and frustration when working with bigger nuts and bolts.
NEED HELP! I bought a JDM 2grfe. Is is plug and play or do I need other things ??
What did you use as your lifting points to lift the engine?
Great video But my question. I have a 2011 Toyota RAV4 sport V6 my bearings went bad in my front transfer case and I have to replace it. and I can't find any videos on how to remove it. I'm trying to do it myself, Can I replace the front transfer case without taking out the engine and transmission?
Una pregunta en donde compra los motores
very complicated and expert job good Video
hey, excelent video, I have the same situation, i have a sienna 2008 with 2grfe but it´s gone, it´s broken, I found 2grfe to one donator highlander 2015 what do you think?
Thank you
I am swapping a 2grfe 2015 gsv50 into a 2006 gsv40 whilst I know its the same engine do I need to change ecu aswell?
How much more complicated is it when the Sienna is AWD?
Dennis Felling UHHHHHHH
I don’t even know
what happen to it did it die?
Yes after 120 000 miles
Once I remove the 12mm bolt on the steering shaft/coupler, do I just need to tap it "up" to get it disconnected or tap down as the subframe is being lowered? I can't tell if there is enough flex/room to hit it up and off with the subframe still connected.
If you are talking about the coupler that connects the steering shaft to the steering rack then the only way is to tap it up. It does have room to go up.
Perfect, thanks, that’s exactly what I meant. I didn’t try real hard, just a few taps and stopped to check. I’m doing the swap now on an AWD Highlander and kept checking your video and wondering why you “skipped” removing the driveshaft. It took me a few minutes to go duh, he doesn’t have one with FWD!
I would like to see if your interested in doing engine swap on my 07 sienna.. Please..
Could you have gone through the top. I'm doing a 06 rav4. Book says go through bottom... But it looks like I can go through top
How long it took to drop the engine?
did the both engines have oil coolers? i have similar issue with very hard/loud knocking. im able to source the non-oil cooler engine though mine has the engine oil cooler option. what're your thoughts on the swap? is it possible to swap my o.c. over to the non-o.c. engine? thank you
If you remove the intake manifold dint need to remove the wiper asambly
Nice video ... lots of work. Is this the same like sienna 2011?
Very nice job
Hello There!!!!! First let me say that's the best video I've seen on replacing the engine . I have a question for you and I've search for answers but so far i still don't have any. I have a 06 Rav4 4wd 2.4L engine 2AZ-FE and I'm trying to replace the engine cause of a really loud knock. It seems like the there's a few cars with that same engine but the rav4 is more expensive than the rest of them. What is the difference and which would fit my rav4?
Thank you for taking the time
How much difference is there for the 2006 Sienna (3MZ-FE engine)?
+Frank Murray I don't have first hand experience with the 3MZ-FE but according to the service manual the process looks very similar. There are some small differences such as the front mount and some of the hoses.
+happywrenching Thanks.
One more question: if you're dropping the engine and transmission together as a unit, why are you removing the torque converter bolts? The engine I'm removing is seized- don't think turning the crankshaft by hand is an option :-S
+Frank Murray Because I will need to separate the engine from the transmission. Once everything is on the ground, I will remove the old engine and install the new engine but still use the same transmission with the new engine. I've got a video on this coming out in a day or two.
If you can't rotate the crank then you will have to separate the engine with the torque converter still attached to the flexplate. You will need to remove the crankshaft (with torque converter attached). After that you will be able to remove all the bolts and reuse the torque converter, if that is what you want.
Thanks for this video. I have been researching how to change the rear spark plugs, and was wondering if a partial dropping of the engine is a viable way to go about it. What do you think? I used to have a Chevy Venture where the expected procedure was to unbolt an engine mount, and then rotate the motor forward for access to the rear bank.
Nice work
Great video!
all this in nutshell: put cup under anything that can be drain it unplug any thing connected to the engine and pull it out and wait for the new engine to arrive broken.
How long did it take
This took a couple weeks from start to finish.
@14:32 "u'll need to rotate crankshaft by hand" . Looks like you rotating it by foot. lol. Otherwise great, detailed video- write up. thumb up
I wonder how much something like this would cost if you were getting a quality engine and someone to do it right with no issues?
Might as well buy a new vehicle
So how long did it take to get the engine out (approx number of hours). How long to get the new engine transferred to the old sub frame? And how long to get it back in? I am considering this job, have done an engine before but did it all from the top on a jeep. this looks like lots more work. Thanks for the video, I am considering the swap just because of your video.
Hi, it is for sure a lot of work. According to the service manual, book time for this job is around 21 hours. The hardest and longest part is the removal because you have to deal with stuck bolts/nuts, hoses, etc. I'd say that it took me about 14 hours total to remove. Another 8 to transfer. And 8 to install and fill everything. That's with working the camera. Installation went surprisingly quick. Good luck!
happywrenching what service manual?
I checked all data at my work at nissan it says 16 hours to 21 hours
Magic video ❤
How long did it take? Take engine out and swap part? Good job.
Wish I had a better answer for you but I worked on this a few hours each evening for over a week. Took my time and of-course filming took time as well. Good luck!
So sienna and rava can share same engine?
Will 2gr fit in a 1996 Rav4 4door? and what transmission should I marry it with if I want to run 4wd?
Can you please share where you got the motor? I need to order one :(
Walmart
WOULD FIT A 3.5 L V6 2GRFE ENGINE INTO A 1992 CELICA GT-S (ST185 ) ?????