Fifty years ago, as a college student with no budget, I used the cheap heaters in my tanks. After coming home from a date and finding all my tetras dead and the water at 94°, I started upgrading my heaters. No more bottom end ones for me! I just purchased a pair of Aqueon 100-watt heaters for my new 75-gallon tank. They also received good ratings, just below the Fluval, but at half the cost. I have an Inkbird controller for the pair. I also have a 10-watt heater I'll keep separate, in case my main heaters quit. I am confident this system will be the best one for me. I appreciate your videos and learn something from each one. Take care.
Temp controllers make a great safety net too. Plug heater into temp controller with controller temp slightly above the heaters temp. In the event of failure the controller acts as a safety.
@@SmokeNGunsBBQ Thank you. I watched Kev's earlier video on heaters and designed my system after his. I figure this will be my last tank I ever set up, and want it to last longer than I do, so I'm tending to go with the top-end equipment. I just finished washing the Black Diamond, so it should go into the tank over the weekend. If you've ever come home and found your fish cooked, well, you don't forget it. Thanks for the endorsement of a temp controller. Take care.
Thanks. I got two Hygger 1200 watt heaters and will add another for my 332 gallon freshwater tank. The heaters have an independent temp control. They seem to be good heaters so far. My aquarium is in an outdoor sunroom so in the summer it’s hot and colder during the winter months in Florida.
Yep Kev now is the time to do a good checkup on your heaters as the winter is setting in and your heaters are working a lot more than a few months back when we were running AC in the house. Another point is I run ink bird heater controllers as a safe guard against the inevitable heater failure. Now with that said I only heat 4 of my 10 tanks the rest are all cold water fish. some that can live outside in both the cold and the Texas heat and others that stay at what ever temp the room is at or so.
Yes sir, you're absolutely correct! I also run inkbird controllers on the big tanks. Did a video about redundant safety measures a few years ago, check it out - ruclips.net/video/TsAC8iN_y1c/видео.html
I got an Fluval E series when two of my Hygger's failed, they kept reading the temp as higher than it was. What attracted me to the Hyggers were that it gave you the temp readout on the display. The E series displays the temp although not as clear but now I just go by the color. Green is good, red is hotter than what is set and blue is lower so it's easy to see what going on at a glance. Plus it has it's own heater guard. My LFS uses them in all their tanks, so I figures if they trust them it's should be good.
I got two Hygger 1200 w controllable heaters. Awesome. The Fluvals seemed to fail and they were not that old and the Aqueon 300 w weren’t much better. These two new heaters seem to work great so far. As far as the 300 g Acrylic tank with aluminum stand, it looks good and of course the changeover will be a headache. I’m looking into placing the aluminum stand on a flatbed truck cart either 24” or 34” wide x 96” length, then place the aquarium atop the stand and do the change over of the 150 g to the new tank as it is side by side adding new substrate and using the display articles from the 150 g into the new tank. While doing the change over I would use a heater with a bubbler and about a quarter water fill. I would place the fish in the new tank while cleaning out the old. The pain is moving out the old tank and the stand with minimal help available. My wife can’t lift at all. After removing the 150 g and stand I would then wheel the new stand with tank on it next to the wall in the patio. I will then place my canister filters underneath and get them up while adding new water. I will leave the new aquarium and stand atop the steel flatbed cart as it can take the weight plus it’s got lock down wheels. Why do this you may ask, it’s because if I did the clean out of the 150 g with the fish swimming in a large plastic container, by the time it would have been cleaned out and moved, I would surely lose some fish. Any way just a thought with the new tank mounted on the stand atop the cart, it surely would be easier by just pushing and pulling it into position with wheels underneath. It’s an 11.5 inch height from the deck surface of the cart to the ground. Not too bad. Hope this didn’t confuse you. It’s really the only feasible way because of the amount of fish and the time constraint involved in getting the 150 g emptied and moved outside my sunroom.
Eheim Jager is my go-to for heaters, I had the Fluval E-series for about 4 months then it wouldn't heat up my tank to my desired temp, (holding at 73 degrees). contacted Fluval and they wouldn't warranty it saying (you probably just got a bad one), after spending over $50 I was pretty ticked off, needing a heater I picked up a Eheim Jager from my local fish store for around $30 for a 300 watt heater, that was four years ago, and it has never given me any problems. That wasn't the first time I had problems with Fluval support, their products are expensive, and they love to give you the run around or will just tell you (there's nothing they can do).
I have Fluvals.. and run redundant heaters.. just in case 1 fails. Of course it's one of the things I'm uptight about checking at feeding time. Always checking my temps.
Redundant is the way to go! 😁💪 I made a video a few years back about redundant safety measures including using temp controllers 😁💪 Check it out - ruclips.net/video/TsAC8iN_y1c/видео.html
I’ve got two in my 40g, they are phenomenal and won’t use any other ones. I keep two in case one goes out. I do need to buy one as a backup one in case one goes out while after hours. Great info!!
@ it just happens that one of my heaters went out yesterday in the AM. Went and got another (m series 300) and replaced the non-working one. Thank god for the other one kicking in and keeping the water somewhat warm, otherwise I’d lose my cories, angelfish, and Severum
Sorry am late ... Kev The Maestro never get tired to said that ... Everytime am in doubt or something not going well in tanks I watch KEV video the ammount knowledge I get will make forever greatfull for that THANKS KEV ❤
I would always use air stones anyway, and just because you might have a power out, an air stones can have batteries to power it so in case of a power outage
My two Fluval E Series began to malfunction after about two years and two of them were heating my 150 g tank. I added two Aqueon 300 and noticed a small improvement in maintaining the temp. I’m awaiting two off brand 1200 watt heaters with temp control display. My tank is in an enclosed sunroom and is susceptible to the cold and hot temps of Florida. The room temp affects my heaters ability to maintain a good temp for my south and Central American cichlids. I’m looking at a 300 g acrylic tank upgrade and was also wondering if acrylic tanks are good to go. What do you suggest about my approach to heating and my choice for an acrylic upgrade? I have an overstocked 150 but the fish seem to be happy and doing well. It’s crowded like NYC😂
Acrylic is a strong tank bro, if you're concerned about that go for it. Biggest con of acrylic is its scratch potential but besides that its all pros. You should also consider using temp controllers if you have fluctuation issues with your temp. Check this out - ruclips.net/video/TsAC8iN_y1c/видео.html
@ Thanks Kevin. I watch you all of the time. I did order two 1200 watt heaters with controllers and am currently looking at tanks at Fish Tank Direct and American Aquariums. I’ll take the plunge when I make that final decision after gathering all info. I’m also looking to purchase an aluminum or steel stand for the 300 gal 96”l x 24w x 36h tank. I’m just wondering if the lip of the rear of the tank is able to take my fluval intake and outtake hose clips to fix them to the rear edge of the tank. Hopefully the lid gives a little spacing for such a feat and also heater insertion. I can’t tell from the pics of the aquariums on their sites. What company do you specifically use for the purchase of your acrylic tanks. Advise if you can. Love your site as I have learned a lot from your presentations.
@ good-to-go. I went back and watched your very first video you posted on your channel last night. Bro, you have really come along ways dawg. Really proud of you, salute 🫡 👍
I agree with the importance of keeping a heater running at all times in a tank regardless of what part of the US you're in but I cannot recommend the M line Fluval heaters. During the summer my M300 (meant for up to 80 US gallons) was doing a good job keeping my 60 breeder (48.5 inches long) at 82°F but once temps started dropping into the 40s here in Uptown NYC it started having a very tough time catching up. I have it set exactly to 82°F and even right next to the heater, my digital thermometer is reading 78-79.2°F... I don't even wanna know what the temps are on the other end of my tank away from the heater... I'm switching it out for a Hygger heater. They do a way better job at getting and keeping the water hot than the M series heaters, hands down... People in my local aquarium club agree too. Shame because I like the looks of the M line, but it is way too weak...
Before you do that, I suggest a second opinion, lol Meaning get a second thermometer, preferably not a digital one. I've seen those fail and be inaccurate much more frequently than a heater itself.
I dont have any plants in the tank, lol Because all my fish eat plants. All except the Discus, but that tank is too big for me to maintain the plant life.
Start with this video to cycle your tank - ruclips.net/video/9Cuqylaak3E/видео.html Then, I highly suggest you check out my playlist for beginners. It'll be very helpful for you 😁 - ruclips.net/p/PLP5OXTIIDO8NYvhUHAmwAd54WFmS4d8er AND, you should check out my new Aquarium Keeping APP designed for beginners! - ruclips.net/p/PLP5OXTIIDO8MyRXOeOqhwzruSWFdhcaNh
I have a M series heater , it's not accurate at all . I got the T series heater , the light went out within 3 months . I haven't had luck with fluval heaters unfortunately. I switched with sicce contactless scuba heater It's the best heater I've ever had , very accurate, no issues . Control it with your phone app . 🐠
Sorry to hear you had trouble with the Fluval heaters. Im sure if you reached out to them they would take care of you. Glad you found a heater you're happy with though 💪
What size would you recommend for a 55 gallon African Cichlids tank definitely running redundant heaters so should I get two 100watts or a 150 and a 100 what would you recommend
Water changes. 😁 I highly suggest you check out my playlist for beginners. It'll be very helpful for you 😁 - ruclips.net/p/PLP5OXTIIDO8NYvhUHAmwAd54WFmS4d8er AND, you should check out my new Aquarium Keeping APP designed for beginners! - ruclips.net/p/PLP5OXTIIDO8MyRXOeOqhwzruSWFdhcaNh
I don’t know about that, respectfully. I’ve used Fluval and I’ve never had a problem with them, and I even check my own temperatures with a thermometer and they’re always on time. So might be user error, judging from your expressive language.
Sorry you have had a bad experience with them. I'm sure if you contacted Fluval when the went bad they would have taken care of you. Fluval stands by their products and takes care of their customers.
Fluval heaters are the worst. They fluctuate too much and last less than a year, the worst fluval product in existence, titanium heaters with a temp controller
@KaveManAquatics as well as many people from what I've heard, I still use mine in my outdoor aquarium but not it's connected to a temp controller and it's cranked to the max
76 is right on the border line of too low. if they're doing great dont change it. If you start to see symptoms of disease or loss of appetite, then yes I would raise to at least 78
Fifty years ago, as a college student with no budget, I used the cheap heaters in my tanks. After coming home from a date and finding all my tetras dead and the water at 94°, I started upgrading my heaters. No more bottom end ones for me! I just purchased a pair of Aqueon 100-watt heaters for my new 75-gallon tank. They also received good ratings, just below the Fluval, but at half the cost. I have an Inkbird controller for the pair. I also have a 10-watt heater I'll keep separate, in case my main heaters quit. I am confident this system will be the best one for me. I appreciate your videos and learn something from each one. Take care.
Temp controllers make a great safety net too. Plug heater into temp controller with controller temp slightly above the heaters temp. In the event of failure the controller acts as a safety.
Sounds like that lesson was learned and your fish are now in good hands! 😁💪
@@SmokeNGunsBBQ Thank you. I watched Kev's earlier video on heaters and designed my system after his. I figure this will be my last tank I ever set up, and want it to last longer than I do, so I'm tending to go with the top-end equipment. I just finished washing the Black Diamond, so it should go into the tank over the weekend. If you've ever come home and found your fish cooked, well, you don't forget it. Thanks for the endorsement of a temp controller. Take care.
Ive been running hygger.. and am super happy with it so far
Hygger is another great brand for heaters 😁💪
Thanks. I got two Hygger 1200 watt heaters and will add another for my 332 gallon freshwater tank. The heaters have an independent temp control. They seem to be good heaters so far. My aquarium is in an outdoor sunroom so in the summer it’s hot and colder during the winter months in Florida.
Yep Kev now is the time to do a good checkup on your heaters as the winter is setting in and your heaters are working a lot more than a few months back when we were running AC in the house. Another point is I run ink bird heater controllers as a safe guard against the inevitable heater failure. Now with that said I only heat 4 of my 10 tanks the rest are all cold water fish. some that can live outside in both the cold and the Texas heat and others that stay at what ever temp the room is at or so.
Yes sir, you're absolutely correct! I also run inkbird controllers on the big tanks. Did a video about redundant safety measures a few years ago, check it out - ruclips.net/video/TsAC8iN_y1c/видео.html
Love it Kev when you do vids you have educated me loads with fish keeping
Glad to hear it bro! 😁💪
I got an Fluval E series when two of my Hygger's failed, they kept reading the temp as higher than it was. What attracted me to the Hyggers were that it gave you the temp readout on the display. The E series displays the temp although not as clear but now I just go by the color. Green is good, red is hotter than what is set and blue is lower so it's easy to see what going on at a glance. Plus it has it's own heater guard. My LFS uses them in all their tanks, so I figures if they trust them it's should be good.
I got two Hygger 1200 w controllable heaters. Awesome. The Fluvals seemed to fail and they were not that old and the Aqueon 300 w weren’t much better. These two new heaters seem to work great so far. As far as the 300 g Acrylic tank with aluminum stand, it looks good and of course the changeover will be a headache. I’m looking into placing the aluminum stand on a flatbed truck cart either 24” or 34” wide x 96” length, then place the aquarium atop the stand and do the change over of the 150 g to the new tank as it is side by side adding new substrate and using the display articles from the 150 g into the new tank. While doing the change over I would use a heater with a bubbler and about a quarter water fill. I would place the fish in the new tank while cleaning out the old. The pain is moving out the old tank and the stand with minimal help available. My wife can’t lift at all. After removing the 150 g and stand I would then wheel the new stand with tank on it next to the wall in the patio. I will then place my canister filters underneath and get them up while adding new water. I will leave the new aquarium and stand atop the steel flatbed cart as it can take the weight plus it’s got lock down wheels. Why do this you may ask, it’s because if I did the clean out of the 150 g with the fish swimming in a large plastic container, by the time it would have been cleaned out and moved, I would surely lose some fish. Any way just a thought with the new tank mounted on the stand atop the cart, it surely would be easier by just pushing and pulling it into position with wheels underneath. It’s an 11.5 inch height from the deck surface of the cart to the ground. Not too bad. Hope this didn’t confuse you. It’s really the only feasible way because of the amount of fish and the time constraint involved in getting the 150 g emptied and moved outside my sunroom.
Big facts I use M series in all my set ups
Nice!!! 😁💪💪
I did until 3 failed. I now use titanium heaters
Eheim Jager is my go-to for heaters, I had the Fluval E-series for about 4 months then it wouldn't heat up my tank to my desired temp, (holding at 73 degrees). contacted Fluval and they wouldn't warranty it saying (you probably just got a bad one), after spending over $50 I was pretty ticked off, needing a heater I picked up a Eheim Jager from my local fish store for around $30 for a 300 watt heater, that was four years ago, and it has never given me any problems. That wasn't the first time I had problems with Fluval support, their products are expensive, and they love to give you the run around or will just tell you (there's nothing they can do).
Eheim is 100% the way to go. Track record speaks for itself.
2 bad ones in a row. In 3 months. 40 years of fish keeping. Never again. @@BerryProduction89
I have Fluvals.. and run redundant heaters.. just in case 1 fails. Of course it's one of the things I'm uptight about checking at feeding time. Always checking my temps.
Redundant is the way to go! 😁💪 I made a video a few years back about redundant safety measures including using temp controllers 😁💪 Check it out - ruclips.net/video/TsAC8iN_y1c/видео.html
@KaveManAquatics come on bro, where do you think I got the idea from? 😉 💪 👊
I’m here looking for Gordo. I see him over there hanging tough ❤. Love your channel. I have learned so much.
LOL thanks for coming by to check on Gordo! 😁🤣💪
I’ve got two in my 40g, they are phenomenal and won’t use any other ones. I keep two in case one goes out. I do need to buy one as a backup one in case one goes out while after hours. Great info!!
Redundancy is always important! Good stuff bro! 😁💪
@ it just happens that one of my heaters went out yesterday in the AM. Went and got another (m series 300) and replaced the non-working one. Thank god for the other one kicking in and keeping the water somewhat warm, otherwise I’d lose my cories, angelfish, and Severum
👍👍 Thanks Kev! ❤️❣️
My pleasure Lori! New video this Saturday too 😁😁
Looking forward to it Kev!❤️
I'm using T-series to all of my tanks and I'm very happy! :)
Nice! Glad to hear it 💪💪
Yeap, definitely my go to product. I have the Bluetooth aquarium lights, fx6, fx4, 307 and 407 filters.
Facts!!! But how would you say it's compared to an Eheim?
Eheim is another great Heater for sure!
Sorry am late ... Kev The Maestro never get tired to said that ... Everytime am in doubt or something not going well in tanks I watch KEV video the ammount knowledge I get will make forever greatfull for that THANKS KEV ❤
Pleasures always mine my bro, glad you enjoyed the video! 😁💪
If your using wave makers should you still need to use air stones?
I would always use air stones anyway, and just because you might have a power out, an air stones can have batteries to power it so in case of a power outage
@@rahimkhakee7750 ok thank you
You dont need to use airstones no. But like my bro Rahim said. A battery powered air pump attached to airstones is a great safety measure.
@@KaveManAquatics appreciate the advice. Love your informational videos. Keep it up man. Ty
My two Fluval E Series began to malfunction after about two years and two of them were heating my 150 g tank. I added two Aqueon 300 and noticed a small improvement in maintaining the temp. I’m awaiting two off brand 1200 watt heaters with temp control display. My tank is in an enclosed sunroom and is susceptible to the cold and hot temps of Florida. The room temp affects my heaters ability to maintain a good temp for my south and Central American cichlids. I’m looking at a 300 g acrylic tank upgrade and was also wondering if acrylic tanks are good to go. What do you suggest about my approach to heating and my choice for an acrylic upgrade? I have an overstocked 150 but the fish seem to be happy and doing well. It’s crowded like NYC😂
Acrylic is a strong tank bro, if you're concerned about that go for it. Biggest con of acrylic is its scratch potential but besides that its all pros. You should also consider using temp controllers if you have fluctuation issues with your temp. Check this out - ruclips.net/video/TsAC8iN_y1c/видео.html
@ Thanks Kevin. I watch you all of the time. I did order two 1200 watt heaters with controllers and am currently looking at tanks at Fish Tank Direct and American Aquariums. I’ll take the plunge when I make that final decision after gathering all info. I’m also looking to purchase an aluminum or steel stand for the 300 gal 96”l x 24w x 36h tank. I’m just wondering if the lip of the rear of the tank is able to take my fluval intake and outtake hose clips to fix them to the rear edge of the tank. Hopefully the lid gives a little spacing for such a feat and also heater insertion. I can’t tell from the pics of the aquariums on their sites. What company do you specifically use for the purchase of your acrylic tanks. Advise if you can. Love your site as I have learned a lot from your presentations.
Run them through an independent temp controller to layer the protection.
Another banger! Thanks Kev 😊
Appreciate the support bro! 🙏
@ good-to-go. I went back and watched your very first video you posted on your channel last night. Bro, you have really come along ways dawg. Really proud of you, salute 🫡 👍
I've got a fluval M100 in my 20gallon and a hygger hg043 in my 50long and they both work very well.
Glad to hear you're happy with those! 💪
What if i live in a tropical island and have an aquarium outdoor in my patio? Planning to do discus in it. A 1000l
What the temperature at night? 🤔🤔🤔
@@KaveManAquatics in winter, can go to 20 degrees C. But most of the time, around 28 degrees C.
Fluval is dope. Do you use 1 in your 450 and 210? Only thing I don’t like about fluval is the model I have is fully Submersible
I agree with the importance of keeping a heater running at all times in a tank regardless of what part of the US you're in but I cannot recommend the M line Fluval heaters. During the summer my M300 (meant for up to 80 US gallons) was doing a good job keeping my 60 breeder (48.5 inches long) at 82°F but once temps started dropping into the 40s here in Uptown NYC it started having a very tough time catching up. I have it set exactly to 82°F and even right next to the heater, my digital thermometer is reading 78-79.2°F... I don't even wanna know what the temps are on the other end of my tank away from the heater... I'm switching it out for a Hygger heater. They do a way better job at getting and keeping the water hot than the M series heaters, hands down... People in my local aquarium club agree too. Shame because I like the looks of the M line, but it is way too weak...
Before you do that, I suggest a second opinion, lol Meaning get a second thermometer, preferably not a digital one. I've seen those fail and be inaccurate much more frequently than a heater itself.
I just bought 2 schego 15ow heaters to go on my inkbird thermostat , no thermostat built in so last a while
Kev how do you have plants in your tank with the fish do they tend to mess around with your plants ?
I dont have any plants in the tank, lol Because all my fish eat plants. All except the Discus, but that tank is too big for me to maintain the plant life.
your tanks are beautiful!
Thanks bro! 😁
Just sat up my 55gal tank how off do I cycle my tank and how much prime do I put in before I add my fish and how much stress guard
Start with this video to cycle your tank - ruclips.net/video/9Cuqylaak3E/видео.html
Then, I highly suggest you check out my playlist for beginners. It'll be very helpful for you 😁 - ruclips.net/p/PLP5OXTIIDO8NYvhUHAmwAd54WFmS4d8er
AND, you should check out my new Aquarium Keeping APP designed for beginners! - ruclips.net/p/PLP5OXTIIDO8MyRXOeOqhwzruSWFdhcaNh
I’ve never had an issue with my tru temp heaters
Where did you buy the light fot the african chiclid tank?
Its a Blade Freshwater Light. You can find all the products and equipment I use and recommend in my affiliate shop 😁 - linkpop.com/kavemanaquatics
Wait, how cold do you set your Air Conditioning to in the summer? Mine is at 74 degrees. Any colder and I can't wear short sleeves.
Yea, 72 to 74 ish...which is still too cold for tropical fish 😁
@ it’s pretty good for rainbow fish!
Yo Kev, what's that in-line UV thing you got there? What's it for?
UV kills algae and parasites depending on the flow rate. Helps with Crystal clear water if you've got algae issues in your tank. 😁
I have a M series heater , it's not accurate at all .
I got the T series heater , the light went out within 3 months . I haven't had luck with fluval heaters unfortunately.
I switched with sicce contactless scuba heater
It's the best heater I've ever had , very accurate, no issues . Control it with your phone app . 🐠
Sorry to hear you had trouble with the Fluval heaters. Im sure if you reached out to them they would take care of you. Glad you found a heater you're happy with though 💪
Hey Kev which one will work with my InkBird controller?
Any of these will work with a temp controller! 😁💪
What size would you recommend for a 55 gallon African Cichlids tank definitely running redundant heaters so should I get two 100watts or a 150 and a 100 what would you recommend
Redundancy is definitely better. I'd go 150 and 100 with a temp controller... and this is the reason why 😁 - ruclips.net/video/TsAC8iN_y1c/видео.html
My two M-series units consistently fail to maintain an operating temperature above 83 degrees.
Really? I'd double check your temp sensor first. batteries on those things die quicker than you think. Or go with an old school thermometer.
100%
They make nice equipment
How to lower Nitrate
Water changes. 😁 I highly suggest you check out my playlist for beginners. It'll be very helpful for you 😁 - ruclips.net/p/PLP5OXTIIDO8NYvhUHAmwAd54WFmS4d8er
AND, you should check out my new Aquarium Keeping APP designed for beginners! - ruclips.net/p/PLP5OXTIIDO8MyRXOeOqhwzruSWFdhcaNh
yeah and an ink bird is another lvl of security i had my tank get boiled
Definitely is! I linked a video card during the video to my older video about the importance of a redundant backup using a temp controller.
💪🏽💪🏽
Those heaters are shit. They fail within a year amd are delicate.
I don’t know about that, respectfully. I’ve used Fluval and I’ve never had a problem with them, and I even check my own temperatures with a thermometer and they’re always on time. So might be user error, judging from your expressive language.
Sorry you have had a bad experience with them. I'm sure if you contacted Fluval when the went bad they would have taken care of you. Fluval stands by their products and takes care of their customers.
I agree . I've had M series and T series . Both let me down . Switched to sicce scuba heaters .
@@mikecovey4498 tacky…. Learn how to talk with intelligence
always turn off heaters when WC 🤨🤨
Fluval heaters are the worst. They fluctuate too much and last less than a year, the worst fluval product in existence, titanium heaters with a temp controller
Sorry you had a bad experience with them.
@KaveManAquatics as well as many people from what I've heard, I still use mine in my outdoor aquarium but not it's connected to a temp controller and it's cranked to the max
Kev I keep my mbuna tank at 76 and they do great. Do you think I should up to 78?
76 is right on the border line of too low. if they're doing great dont change it. If you start to see symptoms of disease or loss of appetite, then yes I would raise to at least 78
Thanks brother
Eheim is better