Ray, it amazes me how many work hours you must be making every week. You’re not just busy doing all the work on the vehicles, you are also putting an effort into making your video material pedagogical and fun to watch. Judging by the updates you must put in extreme hours of work in doing this. Just the way you communicate with us viewers whilst filming and also giving extra care and going the extra miles to create good camera angles makes you a unique auto content video producer. Thanks for doing this! My best regards from Sweden. 🇸🇪
That is just the cost of being the boss. The entire first year of my business was 12-16 hour days 7 days a week for the entire 52 weeks that first year, and not just a few 7 days straight with no relief. I mean 24/7 folks. Starting a business is not all just being the boss and telling others what to do.
Wow.😮 Great reply to Ray and you’ve “taught “ me something today too. I have never heard the word “pedagogical “ in my life. I take it English is your second language? Thank you sir. Every day is a learning day.
@@level1804 Thanks! Yes, English is my second language. Swedes have to become polyglots due to our small population and our high dependence on international trade. 🙂
To drive the manifold stud in. Put two nuts on the one side, stacked so they are just past the end. This will create a locked nut on the end and allow you to drive the stud into depth. Then remove the outer nut then tighten down the inner nut to fasten.
Better would be to have a thread chaser (not tap) kit to be able to run the chaser through the boogered up threads and clean them up. I know Craftsman used to have one, I'd imagine Snap-On has them.
Agree. Shoulda chased the threads first before installing the cats/Y-pipe, and installed the short end of the studs into the manifold flange with two nuts (jam nuts0. Great work regardless!
@@aperson9495 i have that kit. They are all made by the same manufacturer then rebranded by kastar. Craftsman, snap on, cta, so many on amazon in the same red case and all look exactly the same, all manufactured by kastar. Langs looks pretty damn close if not exactly the same except in a grey case. Wouldnt be surprised if theirs was kastar as well. Kastar is a division of a&e tools.
I have found it helps to weld a flat washer to the broken stud first, the weld the nut on, and make sure the nut is bigger inside diameter than the stud, that way the weld gets in all the way around the inside.
I also noticed that the larger nut worked, but I thought it was because it was bigger around. Like the big sprocket on a bicycle, more work from less torque. But now that you said that, it makes better sense. More weldable surface to attach equals a stronger weld. Either way... This is another one, like the Red Pathfinder, that I would have REALLY wanted to blow up and NEVER see again.
My father is 66, he stopped doing big jobs at his shop once we all graduated high school, he said why should i do these huge jobs and have liability when i dont need to earn so much to pay for you kids anymore! He loves doing brakes, services, timing services and general mechanical work. But definitely no gearbox out stuff!
@@skatkat6885 what I find as I move away from 70, I'm 75, jobs you used to do quick and fast, nothing to it, yesterday I pulled apart my wireless headphones. First I had to find what was wrong. I tested the switch. Found the power part of the switch was inop. I had to jump the switch with a soldered insulated wire. Then when going back together I had to put the switch into it's little movement receptacle. If not the headphones would not turn on. Then put the circuit board back in, and replace the screws. This was a major job now at 75, 20 years ago it would have been nothing.
I once had a job where all I did was torque bolts for couplings. I found that I saved a lot of time if I marked the bolts with a marker right after I torqued them. Then I knew exactly which bolts I torqued and the customers appreciated seeing those torque marks so they know they were properly tightened.
In general I would agree, but that squish if oil is very telling! The truck has been sitting on the lift at that point for around 3 day at least The pan gasket was supposedly replaced With those 2 assumed facts, there is no way for there to have been any oil, much less used oil, on the mating surface of the rear cover that should have been replaced prior to the pan being re-installed. There had been far too much time past for oil to still be dripping down from the truck running, especially in the warm Florida environment. That being said, I feel like Ive been lied to. Does it really matter? Absolutely! What story is the vehicle owner getting?!? Ray doesn't "OWE" the rest of the world anything except his Patreon subscribers that are technically paying customers. So... take that as you will. Ive watched Rays videos every morning for the last 6 months or so without fail. Watch Ray while I drink my coffee and take my morning pill breakfast. There are things that he does that drive me absolutely NUTS! But its his house, and he can not clean it any way he chooses. It bugs me, but I cant "complain". But being lied to is on a whole other level!
If you look close at the pan gasket just before he adds the sealant, I would say it is new. The embedded rubber bead looks nice and "puffy". An old gasket would have a flattened out bead. HOWEVER, that rear plate should have been installed BEFORE the oil pan if they were both off at the same time, just to ensure perfect centering of the main seal around the crankshaft. As for the oil leaking out, I'd say that is understandable. The oil control rings in an engine will slowly drain oil for days. That oil will seep down the block and cling to the pan gasket, then ride the bottom rails of the gasket to the back where it would pool between the gasket and pan. The exhaust stud remove AND install was painful for me to watch. Painful because it hurts me to know that alot of people consider this to be an acceptable repair for a professional.
@@MitchGaar I didn't poke at the dif jobs because that one thing I have never done. Cant call foul on something you cant do better! And what he did or didn't measure off camera in the dozens of cuts cant really be questioned. What CAN be though was the condition of the fluid in the rear-end of the ford! There was clearly a problem there! I don't know how I came across Ray to begin with. But I think one of the first things that I was attracted to (no homo) was that they felt like honest videos. We all make mistakes, drop shit, break things. He didn't hide any of that. Then his move to his own shop was like watching someone thats "just getting along" finally breaking free and working toward greater overall success. I have the same "addiction" to cleaners, but I use carb cleaner. But the greater picture shows that his cleaning addiction only goes as far as being a punch-line, because the dude is one of the messiest mechanics Ive every worked with (used only sparingly). ITs too easy to sweep the floor, or wipe up a spill.. or NOT sling chemicals all over the place. With all of that, I'm done. It would be nice to see a response here from Ray. Unfortunately that wont happen.
Tightening the oil pan bolts last will also cause the seal and housing to be misaligned, causing a leak from the seal as well. I had to redo a guys comeback for just this reason at the last place I worked.
Just a note; when using a torch to get a bolt or nut free, heat until NEARLY red, put penetrating oil on, then try. Heating to bright red actually, if done for more than a moment can actually weld the two together
Really thought you should fit the new studs long before you should attempt fit exhaust. The way you did it is best way to lead to cross threading. Also should use hi temp anti seize on nuts. Thinking of the next guy in there.
I would have also chased those threads with a tap first. Also, you could use two nuts together on the stud as a "jam nut" in order to insert the new stud into the hole.
Probably easier to stab only one set of studs vs two. If he indeed had an issue with cross threading (he didn't) he could always have cleaned the threads up with a tap while the flange was in position.
@@Nosetothewind very hard to center drill out studs, even with carbide bits. Did not follow industry accepted practice, causing permanent damage, I would file claim for 2 new manifolds, parts and labor.
patience of a saint, monster of a job. I believe that car manufacturers have no concern for a mechanic's mental health when designing the fit of components.
Helpful tip! On gm flex plates there is an alignment hole, usually will have a pink dot net to it. It will be slightly ovaled. you can fully install and tighten the bolt so the engine does not have to be rotated so much! Hope this helps!
So glad you noticed the flex plate before it was too late. I was brokendown in Brokenhead Manitoba some years ago. 1995 E-150 Exhaust Manifold. The bolts were horrible, my friend tried all the nut welding tricks, eventually one had to be drilled and have a heli coil. Then I was back on the road to Vancover Island and beyond. Love to watch your fine work.
Loved the "fastener collection" comment. I accumulated half a dozen 5 gallon buckets of nuts and bolts (fasteners in your lingo) in my workshop over the years. Still have some in my shed at home.
This is why this channel is so awesome, Ray isn’t afraid to show mistakes. This is real world stuff, everyone makes mistakes no matter how good you are. It’s about owning up to it and fixing your mistakes to make it right. That’s what really counts. Awesome vid!
After we removed the old studs we always ran a tap up the holes ensuring that the threads were good for the new studs. but once again I see that you're not using any high temp anti-seize on the studs
Glad to see the torque wrench out. I just had to remove the rear wheel from my motorcycle for a tire change. No joke, had my wife with a breaker bar on one side of the bolt and I had my 250 lb butt bouncing on my 1/2" ratchet to break the nut loose. It wasn't rusted. It was installed by a 400lb gorilla. It had to have been 400Ft-lb. I reinstalled it afterwards with the specified 47ft-lb. That was just uncalled for. It has a cotter pin retainer. It only needs 47lbs. Glad you got through it Ray.
I did this as a summer job last summer at my uncles shop I learned alot and will be going back this summer this job is time consuming but it's all about patience good video dude
Yeah Andy, I was thinking the same thing. Chase the threads and set the studs first. Those reversed studs are going to rust, like the originals, on the back side and be a bear to remove because they're 5 times longer. I might have done that on my own truck in a pinch, but not on a customer's truck. Grade 8 bolts of the proper length might have been a good alternative..
Use your high stand under the front of the engine to bring the tilt of the engine back down so it's easier for stabbing the transmission in with ease. :)
I can see the difficulty in drilling out those bolts. I'd have given up and hit the torch and melted the bolts out and re-tapped. Of course that's me. Probably would have caused more problems and it's easy to give advice on this side of the keyboard. Way to stay with it. Excellent professional.
👏👏👏👏👏you said that your brain was fried, that’s what happened when you was using the torch on the exhaust studs. Ray I always use thread chasers to clean the threads, made the reinstall easier. Finally we get our brake clean fix😆you have been depriving us😆
That’s one I’ve never forgot! I have forgotten to put the torque converter in, though. Got the tranny on the alignment pins. Looked up, face palmed, and started backin the tranny out. Oops!
MAN-O-MAN. I'm so glad that my ole Ford E250, trans filter replacement, did'nt give you a fight like this vehicle did. After watching the entire saga of this job, I'm, even more impressed, with your, 'stick to it tiveness'. BTW, my ole Ford is 'running like a dream'. Trans shifting great. Thank you Ray. Sincerely, 'Ole Geezer Gearhead'.
Old, rusty exhaust fasteners are the worst IMO! Any visible threads will usually be shot. I'll do anything to avoid snapping studs off. So, I soak everything in PB Blaster, which does a great job loosening the rust. Re-assembling things like that exhaust flange, I'll even spray the threads & chase them to avoid binding. Anti-seize helps a lot too. ...same thing with stubborn brake & suspension fasteners. You have the patience of a saint!
You should have run a tap into the exhaust pipe manifold before installing the studs, and you shouldn't have put the studs in backward because you may be the person to take it apart again in the future and you'll have more stud to turn out when rusted.
Ray, It's always a good idea to run a tap down the holes and put some copper slip on the threads makes life easy for reassembly and for next time you strip it out
I replaced many transmissions in GM trucks and learned years ago to heat each exhaust flange nut red hot before attempting removal, especially up here in Wisconsin or the studs WILL break.
I really appreciate you showing your mistakes. It happens. Others just edit it out. I've been a hobby wrench turner for over 20 years. I make these kind of mistakes all the time which is why it's not my profession.
In the previous generation V8's the crankshaft had a split seal in the rear main cap that could start to leak with time. The newer generations have the one piece rear seal appliance that has a non interrupted circumferential seal on the crank.The new circular bolt pattern for the flexplate had to be smaller to fit. That increased the load on the flexplate around the crank bolts. Now i see a lot of flexplates crack around the bolt holes. Some aftermarket suppliers offer thicker flexplate but I wonder if these thicker plates flex and still dampen input pulses from the engine into the trans effectively. Up here in western NY we have the salt to deal with too making things rusty much faster. Great job Ray!
I would work on air compressor manifolds. You would always get half the studs out with the bolt(Ship Life). This would be the only way to ensure the stud was tightened down all the way upon reassembly.
Ray This series was my favorite video. Showing your struggles with removing stud bolts and nuts was the best. Showing the unsuccessful attempts and workarounds was very real. Too bad it took much longer than expected. My other favorite is your video when you picked up your tow truck. It is amazing how well that worked out. Of course your being able to fix the fairly minor things helped a lot and maybe that was why you got a good deal.
On the 2 high / 4 high thing. My '15 Silveryado has an auto feature and I love it. I only use it when it is snowy and need the additional traction because it has a noticeable effect on the fuel economy.
@12:15 That's not the worst thing to forget. Picture this one: 1986 Subaru Brat. Finished reassembly after head gaskets replaced. Fresh oil looking good on the dip stick. Insert key and fire it up. No oil pressure, and the valves sound like they've just arrived on Omaha Beach. Immediately turn the key back off. Pure frustration, I step away for a moment and a cup of water. Sitting right on top of the cooler is a check ball and its spring. To this day, I have no idea how those migrated from the magnetic bolt tray to the top of the water cooler. But the valve body was glad to have the family fully reunited.
@@user-zp2iy9wb3g I was visiting a friend once, at his shop. He'd just finished replacing timing belts on a Caravan and was cleaning up. I noticed one of the old belts lying to the side and remarked something like, "That's the best looking old belt I've ever seen." After a few minutes of profanity and some things kicked around, he calls his customer to explain that her minivan would be in the shop for another day.
Hi Ray, I love watching your videos but I can’t understand why you didn’t run a tap down those exhaust flange threads? I also noticed you never used anti seize compound on the bolts and nuts. This would make it a lot easier for removal for next time.
You seem to do good work most of the time. However you would have done yourself and viewers a favor by running a tap through those holes on the exhaust flanges.
You're honestly and integrity to do your best are your best attributes. I appreciate your videos, but make sure to not miss steps to create candid videos.
I just did a trans rebuild last week on my Tahoe. I did it on a mid rise lift though, since that's all I have.🤕Miserable job. Coming apart went fairly straightforward, back together it fought me the entire way. Worst part was manhandling the transfer case up by hand on the mid rise lift.
I am hoping my 700r4 goes back together better than it came out. It fought me the entire way trying to get it apart. If I didn't have $1200 in parts sitting next to it, it would be at the scrap pile by now. Good luck with your future projects.
@@forgetfulme1719 Eh, mid rise lift is MUCH better over doing it on the ground. 10-15 years ago I would do transmissions on the ground on a dirt driveway working out of the back of a pickup truck. I am getting old. I really would love a 2 post, but don't want to spend the $ modifying my garage to do that.
Good afternoon Rainman nice to see you it's been awhile, I worked with a gentleman doing transmission r&r it was an elder man who only did four wheel drive and rear-wheel drive on the older. Hell of a nice guy I can't tell you how many times I'd be working in the shop and you'd hear him yell out oh cluck amount of the transmissions without the torque converters accidentally numerous times😅 he was doing that job over 30 years and he was very good at it
I dropped the fuel tank out of a car once to replace the fuel pump. Somehow ended up getting the old and the new one mixed up and refitted the old one. Only did that once ;)
Man, I am so f-ing glad I chose to be a Correction Officer instead of an auto mechanic. I worked on Rikers Island for 23 years, don't think I ever had a day like ray is having. God Bless you Raymond............
Don't feel bad about almost forgetting to put the flex plate back on as a teenager a friend was reassembling his engine when it wouldn't start he called me to help find out why . when i got into the garage to help i laughed and pointed to the work bench when he saw what i was pointing at he curst because i was pointing at the valves he forgot to put back into the heads all sitting in a nice row on the bench .
Amazing job as always Ray! I was so very excited to see this series because I have this job ahead of me on my '01 Yukon 5.3 ltr 4x4 when the snow melts up here. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to do it on the ground because I have no access to a lift. After seeing what you went through, I'm totally terrified now 😫😭
From the ground. Live in a winter salt belt. Def buy all new exhaust studs, bolts, clamps, etc. Have torch and welder at hand. For S&Gs from now till then, soak 3X a day with penetrating oil, ALL fasteners. This has to be done even for the smallest job. My poor Mech spent FOUR HOURS changing my alternator due to it being original equipment circa 2006, and living in a winter salt belt. I do not envy you my friend. Except for having an 01 Yukon... That's one nice truck!
A word of advice from someone who has done it on the driveway get an extra set of hands unbolt the transfer case and take them out separately. We found it nearly impossible to remove as a unit.
Have to admit I was thinking ‘Why aren’t you putting the flex plate on before you put the transmission in the way?’. Glad you caught that when you did, the ‘REEE’ would have been loud!
I was thinking he was gonna bluff us into thinking that he'd forgotten it and say something like "You guys thought I forgot the flex plate, didn't you" lol
I was staring at the crank snout when he said "grab that trans and get that guy reinstalled". I immediately thought "what about the? Ah, well. Wonder how far he gets before he notices". It's entertaining to me, because it shows that I'm not the only one that sometimes does dumb things while working on vehicles.
RAY! Canada here! Man you lose me sometimes with your rhetoric. BUT! you are now doing your own shit after you got fired. They said you couldn't. I fkn knew you'd do it. Congratulations. You just about fckd up on the exhaust studs but. Your honesty is so heart felt. Should get a good small rotary zip cutter. You coulda shaved the threads on the top off. Reducing the resistance. Heat the whole area around the stud. AND, never cut studs off that you need to pull. Get the snapon stud install kit too. Start putting moose piss on dry thread install! You might be the one that had to take them out! I love brakleen. You have a lovely family young fella. ❤️ work hard, stay safe.
Nice video Ray. You are correct, NEVER use 4 wheel drive around town. There are even different gear ratios in the diffs to help with FWD on loose surfaces. You will definitely break something.
Just curious if you checked the front transmission seal behind the torque converter? Even though it might not have been leaking, i always put a new seal in the pump cover, since it was split from the engine anyway. Great video as always Ray.
Not only would I have replaced the front seal on the trans, but I would have replaced the torque converter lock up o-ring. And always use 3M sealant on the front seal and the seal retainer (if it has one). It's super cheap to do while it's already out, but expensive when it's in!
Did the customer want to PAY for that extra service? Sometimes I think people forget ray isn't a home mechanic working on his own stuff but providing a service for money. Likely a customer but not have understood why he wanted to mess with the transmission when he's fixing their leak on the engine.
@@oliver_klozoff it's painfully obvious you know absolutely nothing about cars! When you split the transmission from the engine, you have to remove the bolts that connect the torque converter to the flex plate. It's already apart idiot, it doesn't take 15 minutes to pull the torque converter, remove the front transmission seal, & put a new seal in. Of course it's the customer that will pay for the new seal, but that seal wouldn't cost $8 or $10. It's either spend an extra $10 now & replace the seal, or in 3 to 6 months when the transmission seal starts leaking, the owner can pay $500 to do the same exact labor Ray just did. Don't you think we already know Ray doesn't own the cars he works on. When i first started turning wrenches on cars all those many many years ago, our philosophy was you go through & check & replace EVERYTHING when you have the vehicle apart. It's alot cheaper to replace parts NOW when it's already apart, then to pay for the same exact labor just a few months down the road. Literally takes less than 15 minutes to replace, & less than $10 to do it NOW! Of course since you made the comment, i would leave it & make you pay the labor & parts twice!
Little free advice...most GM Flexplates have an alignment hole for the torque converter bolts. You start that one first and torque it down. The others will be aligned. Look for the "oval" shaped hole.
I was actually trying to talk to you about the flexplate not being on yet… I was wondering when you would catch it. Watching you look at it several times… then finally catching it. We’ve all been there. 😂 Another good video!!
Since I bought my first car in 1976 at 16 yrs, and started learning about cars and how to work on them, it's always amazed me that we can have a several hundred horsepower engine, attached to a big beefy transmission, moving a large vehicle, and relying on just three small bolts to move the whole car. They must be 'magic bolts', LOL
It's not just the bolts, it's the clamping force/friction between the torque convertor and the flex plate. There's a lot more holding power there than you'd think.
Now think about the race cars that just ran the drag and drive event at the local track down the street that have 3000hp on a 3000lb car....but those do have 4 bolts on those 🤔🤔
Driving around all of the time on dry roads in 4 high is not good but like where I live the roads in winter time are always wet and snowy so it is fine in this case
Tech tip you might want to share. Be certain no wires have fallen between the engine block and the bell housing before tightening the transmission bolts.
@8:15 I started to really crack up. You starting transmission install. @8:54 I was asking myself "is he really going to do it?" @10:30 he's actually doing it. What is this man on? @10:33 he says " I don't want to pull this out again". @10:47 he even says "that's looking good everywhere". Finally @10:58 the light bulb in his head goes off "OMG, I forgot the flex plate" 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Ray, you need a vacation, brother!! @23:52 I asked myself "did he get the torque converter bolted to the flex plate yet?" @31:25 I went "whew, he did it".
By Ray making extended videos this well documents his work in case a customer tries to blame him for sumtin else that may go wrong not covered in the repair. Take for instance a spark plug change done but a customer claims weird noises from the rear of the vehicle which was not bothered. Most customers don't agree to having their vehicles looked or completely due to fear the mechanic will find other issues so the mec fixes wat was agreed on by the customer.
Ray I can't imagine the work it is to set up lighting and the rest . Full compliments. I wouldn't have patients for that. Kopper Kote for threads which will rust/corrode and face heat soaked. Use the small channel locks with the jaws on the area of the flange to go on. So that threads are not damaged. I have a small pipe wrench but those jaws are slightly too large. If used a couple of SS washers good to go. Is that 262 thread lock? Be Glad your Warm! As it is -23*C out there today. burrrrr Ray one should torque the nut not the bolt as the friction of the bolt effects the torque value.
The jump in of the “wife unit” was a surprise, last time she assisted with the drive shaft removal, no extra hands needed with putting it back? nice video, it is so nice to have family there with you, helping when needed. good luck, stay safe, keep healthy.
Ray, always start your nuts and bolts by hand so that you don't cross thread them. Use anti seize on those exhaust studs after first chasing the holes. You can grab the end of the studs where it is unthreaded with small vise grips and run them in. Some studs have an Allen head in the end and others have male torx head. Probably down your way, the truck will be junk before that ever has to come apart again, so that I guess that it doesn't matter. Lol. I wish that my 2010 Lincoln Town Car was that rusty underneath.
I tend to overthink things but wondered why you didn't put the studs in before the Y pipe. Also wonder if you had, would it be future-proofing to measure and cut the new studs so they don't protrude from the other side of the manifold so those threads won't rust preventing future removal should that be necessary? And/or, use grade 8 bolts instead of studs and nuts to hold it. Even if they rust, they won't break on removal.
I was wondering if though-holes and bolts and nuts wouldn't be a better idea, then if a rusted bolt broke bolt while removing, a new bolt/nut could simply be used.
I’m 72 but back in my youth . The flywheel bolts were 65 lbs torque . And torque converter bolts were 46 lbs never used a breaker bar . We never had electric ratchets either .
Try alignment pins like iron workers use, another thing I used to do. Is get several sizes of long shank bolts, cut the head off. The holes for the alignment pins on motor are so tight, a bolt shank gives you some wiggle room to get closer.
That was seriously impressive, Ray. Your patience, skill and knowledge got you through what could never be described as an easy job! A great series of videos. Thank you.
Why didn't you chase the threads before you put studs in it would have been a whole lot easier. I always did that with exhaust boats are threads when I did mechanic work.
My head hurts after that fall from the top of the trans and my safety glasses went flying. You could have double nutted the studs to install them. Good job, I bet your glad that ones almost done.
Raymond Put 2 nuts on the studs lock them together with a wrench and drive the studs in. That's how I did it when I worked at Buick motor division.
Agreed.
Ray, it amazes me how many work hours you must be making every week. You’re not just busy doing all the work on the vehicles, you are also putting an effort into making your video material pedagogical and fun to watch. Judging by the updates you must put in extreme hours of work in doing this. Just the way you communicate with us viewers whilst filming and also giving extra care and going the extra miles to create good camera angles makes you a unique auto content video producer. Thanks for doing this! My best regards from Sweden. 🇸🇪
That is just the cost of being the boss. The entire first year of my business was 12-16 hour days 7 days a week for the entire 52 weeks that first year, and not just a few 7 days straight with no relief. I mean 24/7 folks. Starting a business is not all just being the boss and telling others what to do.
Wow.😮 Great reply to Ray and you’ve “taught “ me something today too. I have never heard the word “pedagogical “ in my life. I take it English is your second language? Thank you sir. Every day is a learning day.
@@level1804 Thanks! Yes, English is my second language. Swedes have to become polyglots due to our small population and our high dependence on international trade. 🙂
@@level1804 Also, I really appreciate Ray’s phenomenal wits and his ways with words. It makes his productions so much more enjoyable to watch.
any mechanic can wrench but Ray makes it enjoyable and informational.
Awesome job as always Ray. Still can’t get over seeing my own car being worked on. You my friend are the best. Thank you again and again !
Must be nice watching you can see everything he’s done. I’d trust him
Hi Dean
I wish he lived in my area! :(
@@sevenyearitch7936 Cup is half empty
He never showed the bit of him hitting the wall with a rubber mallet (no extra charge)😁
To drive the manifold stud in. Put two nuts on the one side, stacked so they are just past the end. This will create a locked nut on the end and allow you to drive the stud into depth. Then remove the outer nut then tighten down the inner nut to fasten.
Better would be to have a thread chaser (not tap) kit to be able to run the chaser through the boogered up threads and clean them up. I know Craftsman used to have one, I'd imagine Snap-On has them.
@@aperson9495then install studs prior to putting the y pipe in place.
Agree. Shoulda chased the threads first before installing the cats/Y-pipe, and installed the short end of the studs into the manifold flange with two nuts (jam nuts0. Great work regardless!
@@larrygolden167he does everything 50%, metal flakes flying, he was making new threads with the studs install.
@@aperson9495 i have that kit. They are all made by the same manufacturer then rebranded by kastar. Craftsman, snap on, cta, so many on amazon in the same red case and all look exactly the same, all manufactured by kastar. Langs looks pretty damn close if not exactly the same except in a grey case. Wouldnt be surprised if theirs was kastar as well. Kastar is a division of a&e tools.
I have found it helps to weld a flat washer to the broken stud first, the weld the nut on, and make sure the nut is bigger inside diameter than the stud, that way the weld gets in all the way around the inside.
I also noticed that the larger nut worked, but I thought it was because it was bigger around. Like the big sprocket on a bicycle, more work from less torque. But now that you said that, it makes better sense. More weldable surface to attach equals a stronger weld. Either way... This is another one, like the Red Pathfinder, that I would have REALLY wanted to blow up and NEVER see again.
I have taken to nuts and threaded them tight back-to-back lock them on the stud and then cranked it out sometimes it works have a great
If it is difficult to hold the washer and weld it. I crazy glue the washer then weld it. Makes it a little bit easier
@@michaelpressman7203 ķ⁹⁹😊😊
My father is 66, he stopped doing big jobs at his shop once we all graduated high school, he said why should i do these huge jobs and have liability when i dont need to earn so much to pay for you kids anymore! He loves doing brakes, services, timing services and general mechanical work. But definitely no gearbox out stuff!
ray still has wee ones though, so hes definitely going for the money
Nothing wrong with that
Shit u musta never had to pay to put brakes on an f250 have u? Must have been a big job for the price.
@@skatkat6885 what I find as I move away from 70, I'm 75, jobs you used to do quick and fast, nothing to it, yesterday I pulled apart my wireless headphones. First I had to find what was wrong. I tested the switch. Found the power part of the switch was inop. I had to jump the switch with a soldered insulated wire. Then when going back together I had to put the switch into it's little movement receptacle. If not the headphones would not turn on. Then put the circuit board back in, and replace the screws. This was a major job now at 75, 20 years ago it would have been nothing.
That was far from a “gravy job”! I wonder how many chargeable hours the customer was charged? Anymore, a major job like this can total a car!
I once had a job where all I did was torque bolts for couplings. I found that I saved a lot of time if I marked the bolts with a marker right after I torqued them. Then I knew exactly which bolts I torqued and the customers appreciated seeing those torque marks so they know they were properly tightened.
When I wired up subway car electrical units, we marked every torqued connection with a marker.
@@curtw8827 glad he not working on subway car.
That was required when I worked on the car assembly line>>anything touched with a torque wrench got marked.
@@hotpuppy1 that is why I can on longer be mechanic, keep forgetting, later regretting.
That's what the factory does
Not only do you admit your errors but you put them into your videos. Only a confident man would do so. Good video Ray.
Couldn't agree more! Ray shows errors in every video he makes. Very confident!
In general I would agree, but that squish if oil is very telling!
The truck has been sitting on the lift at that point for around 3 day at least
The pan gasket was supposedly replaced
With those 2 assumed facts, there is no way for there to have been any oil, much less used oil, on the mating surface of the rear cover that should have been replaced prior to the pan being re-installed. There had been far too much time past for oil to still be dripping down from the truck running, especially in the warm Florida environment.
That being said, I feel like Ive been lied to. Does it really matter? Absolutely! What story is the vehicle owner getting?!? Ray doesn't "OWE" the rest of the world anything except his Patreon subscribers that are technically paying customers. So... take that as you will. Ive watched Rays videos every morning for the last 6 months or so without fail. Watch Ray while I drink my coffee and take my morning pill breakfast. There are things that he does that drive me absolutely NUTS! But its his house, and he can not clean it any way he chooses. It bugs me, but I cant "complain". But being lied to is on a whole other level!
Totally agree! You also never hear him you colorful metaphors!
If you look close at the pan gasket just before he adds the sealant, I would say it is new. The embedded rubber bead looks nice and "puffy". An old gasket would have a flattened out bead. HOWEVER, that rear plate should have been installed BEFORE the oil pan if they were both off at the same time, just to ensure perfect centering of the main seal around the crankshaft.
As for the oil leaking out, I'd say that is understandable. The oil control rings in an engine will slowly drain oil for days. That oil will seep down the block and cling to the pan gasket, then ride the bottom rails of the gasket to the back where it would pool between the gasket and pan.
The exhaust stud remove AND install was painful for me to watch. Painful because it hurts me to know that alot of people consider this to be an acceptable repair for a professional.
@@MitchGaar I didn't poke at the dif jobs because that one thing I have never done. Cant call foul on something you cant do better! And what he did or didn't measure off camera in the dozens of cuts cant really be questioned. What CAN be though was the condition of the fluid in the rear-end of the ford! There was clearly a problem there!
I don't know how I came across Ray to begin with. But I think one of the first things that I was attracted to (no homo) was that they felt like honest videos. We all make mistakes, drop shit, break things. He didn't hide any of that. Then his move to his own shop was like watching someone thats "just getting along" finally breaking free and working toward greater overall success. I have the same "addiction" to cleaners, but I use carb cleaner. But the greater picture shows that his cleaning addiction only goes as far as being a punch-line, because the dude is one of the messiest mechanics Ive every worked with (used only sparingly). ITs too easy to sweep the floor, or wipe up a spill.. or NOT sling chemicals all over the place.
With all of that, I'm done. It would be nice to see a response here from Ray. Unfortunately that wont happen.
Tightening the oil pan bolts last will also cause the seal and housing to be misaligned, causing a leak from the seal as well. I had to redo a guys comeback for just this reason at the last place I worked.
Never knew that. Good info
What separates you from most is you don't give up, you dig in. Love the videos, thanks for bringing us along with you.
Just a note; when using a torch to get a bolt or nut free, heat until NEARLY red, put penetrating oil on, then try. Heating to bright red actually, if done for more than a moment can actually weld the two together
Really thought you should fit the new studs long before you should attempt fit exhaust. The way you did it is best way to lead to cross threading. Also should use hi temp anti seize on nuts. Thinking of the next guy in there.
I would have also chased those threads with a tap first. Also, you could use two nuts together on the stud as a "jam nut" in order to insert the new stud into the hole.
Probably easier to stab only one set of studs vs two. If he indeed had an issue with cross threading (he didn't) he could always have cleaned the threads up with a tap while the flange was in position.
owner is loyal customer, will see him for forever.
Plus didn’t he screw the next guy who has to deal with all that thread on the back side
@@Nosetothewind very hard to center drill out studs, even with carbide bits. Did not follow industry accepted practice, causing permanent damage, I would file claim for 2 new manifolds, parts and labor.
I call that sound of when the bellhousing seats onto the block the clunk of success.
Especially when it's a manual transmission ;)
patience of a saint, monster of a job. I believe that car manufacturers have no concern for a mechanic's mental health when designing the fit of components.
Helpful tip! On gm flex plates there is an alignment hole, usually will have a pink dot net to it. It will be slightly ovaled. you can fully install and tighten the bolt so the engine does not have to be rotated so much! Hope this helps!
So glad you noticed the flex plate before it was too late. I was brokendown in Brokenhead Manitoba some years ago. 1995 E-150 Exhaust Manifold. The bolts were horrible, my friend tried all the nut welding tricks, eventually one had to be drilled and have a heli coil. Then I was back on the road to Vancover Island and beyond. Love to watch your fine work.
I've done helicoils if you can get a straight shot to drill and tap the holes they work great have a good day
@@michaelpressman7203 We had to buy a 90 degree drill and work pretty hard. It's still fixed 100,000 miles later. Thanks
Job and a half . Glad to see you persisted and solved the issue.
...I've got the same issue, and dreading getting after it. What a job to get to the rear seal - dang!
Ray, man I’m glad there are mechanics like you. I would’ve thrown up my hands a long time ago!
I was yelling flex palate 😮
Loved the "fastener collection" comment. I accumulated half a dozen 5 gallon buckets of nuts and bolts (fasteners in your lingo) in my workshop over the years. Still have some in my shed at home.
10:58 BRO THAT WAS HIGHLY ANXIETY INDUCING WATCHING THAT WHOLE SEQUENCE quality entertainment
This is why this channel is so awesome, Ray isn’t afraid to show mistakes. This is real world stuff, everyone makes mistakes no matter how good you are. It’s about owning up to it and fixing your mistakes to make it right. That’s what really counts. Awesome vid!
After we removed the old studs we always ran a tap up the holes ensuring that the threads were good for the new studs. but once again I see that you're not using any high temp anti-seize on the studs
Glad to see the torque wrench out. I just had to remove the rear wheel from my motorcycle for a tire change. No joke, had my wife with a breaker bar on one side of the bolt and I had my 250 lb butt bouncing on my 1/2" ratchet to break the nut loose. It wasn't rusted. It was installed by a 400lb gorilla. It had to have been 400Ft-lb. I reinstalled it afterwards with the specified 47ft-lb. That was just uncalled for. It has a cotter pin retainer. It only needs 47lbs. Glad you got through it Ray.
I did this as a summer job last summer at my uncles shop I learned alot and will be going back this summer this job is time consuming but it's all about patience good video dude
Ray, you should have run a tap through the manifold stud holes. That would have been a quick and easy fix. But as always an awesome video 😁
Yeah Andy, I was thinking the same thing. Chase the threads and set the studs first. Those reversed studs are going to rust, like the originals, on the back side and be a bear to remove because they're 5 times longer. I might have done that on my own truck in a pinch, but not on a customer's truck. Grade 8 bolts of the proper length might have been a good alternative..
Why not use stainless bolts?
@@weekendwarriorweldingdiypr4604 Not as strong.
@@1965l88 thanks! I learned something new today.
I agree have a good day
Use your high stand under the front of the engine to bring the tilt of the engine back down so it's easier for stabbing the transmission in with ease. :)
I can see the difficulty in drilling out those bolts. I'd have given up and hit the torch and melted the bolts out and re-tapped. Of course that's me. Probably would have caused more problems and it's easy to give advice on this side of the keyboard. Way to stay with it. Excellent professional.
👏👏👏👏👏you said that your brain was fried, that’s what happened when you was using the torch on the exhaust studs. Ray I always use thread chasers to clean the threads, made the reinstall easier. Finally we get our brake clean fix😆you have been depriving us😆
Kinda surprised you didn't run a quick tap through those exhaust flange holes while you had everything out of the way.
I was thinking the same thing. But, if you leave them all scarred up, you won't have issues with the studs backing back out.
When there real bad sometimes it's better to leave them alone. Crossed threads are better then no threads.
@@stevenakn1 next time 2 new manifolds.
@@forgetfulme1719 yep no doubt
@@forgetfulme1719 Im a home mechanic. would have taken them off and tried to tap them on the bench. If that didn't work, kick them down the street.
Me watching video and yelling in my head "Flex plate!!!!" as the transmission was being raised into place. Good recovery Ray!
You and me both!
Came here to see if anyone else was yelling at their device, FLEX PLATE! We knew you wouldn't forget Ray, just giving us entertainment 😉
That’s one I’ve never forgot! I have forgotten to put the torque converter in, though. Got the tranny on the alignment pins. Looked up, face palmed, and started backin the tranny out. Oops!
Me 2🤔🤔
Ray showed it like 3 times on the floor, and I'm like "He's messing with us...................right? Ray.......stop messing with me!".
MAN-O-MAN. I'm so glad that my ole Ford E250, trans filter replacement, did'nt give you a fight like this vehicle did.
After watching the entire saga of this job, I'm, even more impressed, with your, 'stick to it tiveness'.
BTW, my ole Ford is 'running like a dream'. Trans shifting great. Thank you Ray. Sincerely, 'Ole Geezer Gearhead'.
Old, rusty exhaust fasteners are the worst IMO! Any visible threads will usually be shot. I'll do anything to avoid snapping studs off. So, I soak everything in PB Blaster, which does a great job loosening the rust. Re-assembling things like that exhaust flange, I'll even spray the threads & chase them to avoid binding. Anti-seize helps a lot too. ...same thing with stubborn brake & suspension fasteners. You have the patience of a saint!
You should have run a tap into the exhaust pipe manifold before installing the studs, and you shouldn't have put the studs in backward because you may be the person to take it apart again in the future and you'll have more stud to turn out when rusted.
Working on German cars we always liked to put copper nuts . Back on. Good karma lol🍺
Ray, It's always a good idea to run a tap down the holes and put some copper slip on the threads makes life easy for reassembly and for next time you strip it out
Nothing like chasing the threads before putting in the studs on the manifolds!
I replaced many transmissions in GM trucks and learned years ago to heat each exhaust flange nut red hot before attempting removal, especially up here in Wisconsin or the studs WILL break.
I was going to have a really lousy day, but you talked me out of it.
Thanks!
I really appreciate you showing your mistakes. It happens. Others just edit it out. I've been a hobby wrench turner for over 20 years. I make these kind of mistakes all the time which is why it's not my profession.
In the previous generation V8's the crankshaft had a split seal in the rear main cap that could start to leak with time. The newer generations have the one piece rear seal appliance that has a non interrupted circumferential seal on the crank.The new circular bolt pattern for the flexplate had to be smaller to fit. That increased the load on the flexplate around the crank bolts. Now i see a lot of flexplates crack around the bolt holes. Some aftermarket suppliers offer thicker flexplate but I wonder if these thicker plates flex and still dampen input pulses from the engine into the trans effectively.
Up here in western NY we have the salt to deal with too making things rusty much faster.
Great job Ray!
The olden days we used to remove engine for a rear main seal replacement...
When you used rope rear main seal.
awesome job. try using double nuts to run in a stud works pretty good. Thanks for the videos they are much enjoyed
I would work on air compressor manifolds. You would always get half the studs out with the bolt(Ship Life). This would be the only way to ensure the stud was tightened down all the way upon reassembly.
Ray This series was my favorite video. Showing your struggles with removing stud bolts and nuts was the best. Showing the unsuccessful attempts and workarounds was very real. Too bad it took much longer than expected. My other favorite is your video when you picked up your tow truck. It is amazing how well that worked out. Of course your being able to fix the fairly minor things helped a lot and maybe that was why you got a good deal.
I was thinkin' to drill holes and then use bolts and nuts....
@@MitchGaar look here you are again.
should have chased those manifold threads and put your studs in before mounting the exhaust.
I don't know why, but I'm glued to see the whole video. Great job.
Patience of a saint Ray, hats off to you
Wow no torque wrench on the flex plate. Ballsy.
On the 2 high / 4 high thing. My '15 Silveryado has an auto feature and I love it. I only use it when it is snowy and need the additional traction because it has a noticeable effect on the fuel economy.
@12:15 That's not the worst thing to forget. Picture this one: 1986 Subaru Brat. Finished reassembly after head gaskets replaced. Fresh oil looking good on the dip stick. Insert key and fire it up. No oil pressure, and the valves sound like they've just arrived on Omaha Beach. Immediately turn the key back off.
Pure frustration, I step away for a moment and a cup of water. Sitting right on top of the cooler is a check ball and its spring.
To this day, I have no idea how those migrated from the magnetic bolt tray to the top of the water cooler. But the valve body was glad to have the family fully reunited.
Worst thing ever is when cleaning up after repairing is to find some internal linkage or a stray bolt. 😮
@@user-zp2iy9wb3g I was visiting a friend once, at his shop. He'd just finished replacing timing belts on a Caravan and was cleaning up. I noticed one of the old belts lying to the side and remarked something like, "That's the best looking old belt I've ever seen."
After a few minutes of profanity and some things kicked around, he calls his customer to explain that her minivan would be in the shop for another day.
Got to say this.. Rays been putting in some graft, taking on jobs like this and still kicking out daily uploads! Keep it up!
Hi Ray, I love watching your videos but I can’t understand why you didn’t run a tap down those exhaust flange threads? I also noticed you never used anti seize compound on the bolts and nuts. This would make it a lot easier for removal for next time.
he said it, brain fried, by Brakekleen?
Flywheel man. I laughed so hard when bolt fell out of the starter been there so many times
I laughed there too!
You seem to do good work most of the time. However you would have done yourself and viewers a favor by running a tap through those holes on the exhaust flanges.
should have used a tap to clean threads when it was apart. I always tap threads then use anti seize in case it has to come apart again
You should have ran a tap through those exhaust holes before you installed the new studs.
My favorite translated Chinese instructions: Be careful putting in bolts or they might go slantly.
You're honestly and integrity to do your best are your best attributes. I appreciate your videos, but make sure to not miss steps to create candid videos.
Just how many were yelling "Ray THE FLEX PLATE". LOL
I just did a trans rebuild last week on my Tahoe. I did it on a mid rise lift though, since that's all I have.🤕Miserable job. Coming apart went fairly straightforward, back together it fought me the entire way. Worst part was manhandling the transfer case up by hand on the mid rise lift.
I am hoping my 700r4 goes back together better than it came out. It fought me the entire way trying to get it apart. If I didn't have $1200 in parts sitting next to it, it would be at the scrap pile by now. Good luck with your future projects.
strong stamina u have.
@@forgetfulme1719 Eh, mid rise lift is MUCH better over doing it on the ground. 10-15 years ago I would do transmissions on the ground on a dirt driveway working out of the back of a pickup truck. I am getting old. I really would love a 2 post, but don't want to spend the $ modifying my garage to do that.
@@mph5896 2 posts 3 persons, u directing.
Good afternoon Rainman nice to see you it's been awhile, I worked with a gentleman doing transmission r&r it was an elder man who only did four wheel drive and rear-wheel drive on the older. Hell of a nice guy I can't tell you how many times I'd be working in the shop and you'd hear him yell out oh cluck amount of the transmissions without the torque converters accidentally numerous times😅 he was doing that job over 30 years and he was very good at it
Came through in the end, thats always the satisfying part. Done and dusted. 👍👍👍😊
I forgot the TC once. All buttoned up, looked at my box, and sitting there with a smug look was the torque converter.
I dropped the fuel tank out of a car once to replace the fuel pump. Somehow ended up getting the old and the new one mixed up and refitted the old one. Only did that once ;)
@@timjohnun4297 ugh
Installing the flex plate without torque wrench ? Scary 😳
Mr Shortcut, scarier than horror movies, mental click torque.
Man, I am so f-ing glad I chose to be a Correction Officer instead of an auto mechanic. I worked on Rikers Island for 23 years, don't think I ever had a day like ray is having. God Bless you Raymond............
But ray doesn't have to strip search his cars. Cough 3 times Silverado.
Don't feel bad about almost forgetting to put the flex plate back on as a teenager a friend was reassembling his engine when it wouldn't start he called me to help find out why . when i got into the garage to help i laughed and pointed to the work bench when he saw what i was pointing at he curst because i was pointing at the valves he forgot to put back into the heads all sitting in a nice row on the bench .
Amazing job as always Ray! I was so very excited to see this series because I have this job ahead of me on my '01 Yukon 5.3 ltr 4x4 when the snow melts up here. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to do it on the ground because I have no access to a lift. After seeing what you went through, I'm totally terrified now 😫😭
😱😰
Getter done...
From the ground. Live in a winter salt belt. Def buy all new exhaust studs, bolts, clamps, etc. Have torch and welder at hand. For S&Gs from now till then, soak 3X a day with penetrating oil, ALL fasteners. This has to be done even for the smallest job. My poor Mech spent FOUR HOURS changing my alternator due to it being original equipment circa 2006, and living in a winter salt belt. I do not envy you my friend. Except for having an 01 Yukon... That's one nice truck!
You can get it set of ramps at harbor freight done it that way for years it works not easy have a good day
A word of advice from someone who has done it on the driveway get an extra set of hands unbolt the transfer case and take them out separately. We found it nearly impossible to remove as a unit.
Have to admit I was thinking ‘Why aren’t you putting the flex plate on before you put the transmission in the way?’. Glad you caught that when you did, the ‘REEE’ would have been loud!
I was thinking he was gonna bluff us into thinking that he'd forgotten it and say something like "You guys thought I forgot the flex plate, didn't you" lol
I was screaming at my phone, put the flexplate in!!!
I was staring at the crank snout when he said "grab that trans and get that guy reinstalled". I immediately thought "what about the? Ah, well. Wonder how far he gets before he notices". It's entertaining to me, because it shows that I'm not the only one that sometimes does dumb things while working on vehicles.
RAY! Canada here! Man you lose me sometimes with your rhetoric. BUT! you are now doing your own shit after you got fired. They said you couldn't. I fkn knew you'd do it. Congratulations. You just about fckd up on the exhaust studs but. Your honesty is so heart felt. Should get a good small rotary zip cutter. You coulda shaved the threads on the top off. Reducing the resistance. Heat the whole area around the stud. AND, never cut studs off that you need to pull. Get the snapon stud install kit too. Start putting moose piss on dry thread install! You might be the one that had to take them out! I love brakleen. You have a lovely family young fella. ❤️ work hard, stay safe.
Nice video Ray. You are correct, NEVER use 4 wheel drive around town. There are even different gear ratios in the diffs to help with FWD on loose surfaces. You will definitely break something.
You forgot the double nut trick, tighten two nuts together on the stud and you can screw it in.
Just curious if you checked the front transmission seal behind the torque converter? Even though it might not have been leaking, i always put a new seal in the pump cover, since it was split from the engine anyway. Great video as always Ray.
Not only would I have replaced the front seal on the trans, but I would have replaced the torque converter lock up o-ring. And always use 3M sealant on the front seal and the seal retainer (if it has one). It's super cheap to do while it's already out, but expensive when it's in!
Did the customer want to PAY for that extra service? Sometimes I think people forget ray isn't a home mechanic working on his own stuff but providing a service for money. Likely a customer but not have understood why he wanted to mess with the transmission when he's fixing their leak on the engine.
@@oliver_klozoff it's painfully obvious you know absolutely nothing about cars! When you split the transmission from the engine, you have to remove the bolts that connect the torque converter to the flex plate. It's already apart idiot, it doesn't take 15 minutes to pull the torque converter, remove the front transmission seal, & put a new seal in. Of course it's the customer that will pay for the new seal, but that seal wouldn't cost $8 or $10.
It's either spend an extra $10 now & replace the seal, or in 3 to 6 months when the transmission seal starts leaking, the owner can pay $500 to do the same exact labor Ray just did.
Don't you think we already know Ray doesn't own the cars he works on.
When i first started turning wrenches on cars all those many many years ago, our philosophy was you go through & check & replace EVERYTHING when you have the vehicle apart. It's alot cheaper to replace parts NOW when it's already apart, then to pay for the same exact labor just a few months down the road.
Literally takes less than 15 minutes to replace, & less than $10 to do it NOW!
Of course since you made the comment, i would leave it & make you pay the labor & parts twice!
Little free advice...most GM Flexplates have an alignment hole for the torque converter bolts. You start that one first and torque it down. The others will be aligned. Look for the "oval" shaped hole.
Just a few words here Ray...You really are an Excellent mechanic.
I was actually trying to talk to you about the flexplate not being on yet… I was wondering when you would catch it. Watching you look at it several times… then finally catching it. We’ve all been there. 😂 Another good video!!
Since I bought my first car in 1976 at 16 yrs, and started learning about cars and how to work on them, it's always amazed me that we can have a several hundred horsepower engine, attached to a big beefy transmission, moving a large vehicle, and relying on just three small bolts to move the whole car. They must be 'magic bolts', LOL
I was thinking the same thing... those 3 bolts on the flex plate.
It's not just the bolts, it's the clamping force/friction between the torque convertor and the flex plate. There's a lot more holding power there than you'd think.
@@1965l88 Not denying that, but that's still having to hold a LOT of power. ;) It's a very small amount of friction. Small surface area.
Now think about the race cars that just ran the drag and drive event at the local track down the street that have 3000hp on a 3000lb car....but those do have 4 bolts on those 🤔🤔
Geesh we got dropped and then didn't even get a gravity!
Driving around all of the time on dry roads in 4 high is not good but like where I live the roads in winter time are always wet and snowy so it is fine in this case
Tech tip you might want to share. Be certain no wires have fallen between the engine block and the bell housing before tightening the transmission bolts.
How many of us were screaming "Flex Plate Ray" as you were raising the transmission up. I know I was!
@8:15 I started to really crack up. You starting transmission install. @8:54 I was asking myself "is he really going to do it?" @10:30 he's actually doing it. What is this man on? @10:33 he says " I don't want to pull this out again". @10:47 he even says "that's looking good everywhere". Finally @10:58 the light bulb in his head goes off "OMG, I forgot the flex plate" 🤣🤣🤣🤣 Ray, you need a vacation, brother!! @23:52 I asked myself "did he get the torque converter bolted to the flex plate yet?" @31:25 I went "whew, he did it".
At least from that truck!
By Ray making extended videos this well documents his work in case a customer tries to blame him for sumtin else that may go wrong not covered in the repair. Take for instance a spark plug change done but a customer claims weird noises from the rear of the vehicle which was not bothered. Most customers don't agree to having their vehicles looked or completely due to fear the mechanic will find other issues so the mec fixes wat was agreed on by the customer.
It's been almost forty since I have taken off and replaced a transmission. I had to do it laying on the ground and using a floor jack to put it in.
Ray I can't imagine the work it is to set up lighting and the rest . Full compliments. I wouldn't have patients for that.
Kopper Kote for threads which will rust/corrode and face heat soaked.
Use the small channel locks with the jaws on the area of the flange to go on. So that threads are not damaged. I have a small pipe wrench but those jaws are slightly too large. If used a couple of SS washers good to go.
Is that 262 thread lock?
Be Glad your Warm! As it is -23*C out there today. burrrrr
Ray one should torque the nut not the bolt as the friction of the bolt effects the torque value.
When I do watch repair, it seems I always have parts left over. It doesn't appear to affect the performance though!
Removing weight equals adding power. 😆
Simply means the left over parts were not really needed, but I always wonder where they were supposed to go.
always amazes me how the trucks are twice as big as they were in my day but there is only half as much room to work.
Gotta have room for all the electronic technology. Makes you wonder how people actually got anywhere without the electronics to do half the work😆🤣😆
The jump in of the “wife unit” was a surprise, last time she assisted with the drive shaft
removal, no extra hands needed with putting it back? nice video, it is so nice to have family
there with you, helping when needed. good luck, stay safe, keep healthy.
Ray, always start your nuts and bolts by hand so that you don't cross thread them. Use anti seize on those exhaust studs after first chasing the holes. You can grab the end of the studs where it is unthreaded with small vise grips and run them in. Some studs have an Allen head in the end and others have male torx head. Probably down your way, the truck will be junk before that ever has to come apart again, so that I guess that it doesn't matter. Lol. I wish that my 2010 Lincoln Town Car was that rusty underneath.
⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⅘⁴⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁴⁴⁴⁴⁴⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⁵⅘⅘⅘⁵⁵⅘⁵⁵⅚6⁶66
I tend to overthink things but wondered why you didn't put the studs in before the Y pipe. Also wonder if you had, would it be future-proofing to measure and cut the new studs so they don't protrude from the other side of the manifold so those threads won't rust preventing future removal should that be necessary? And/or, use grade 8 bolts instead of studs and nuts to hold it. Even if they rust, they won't break on removal.
I was wondering if though-holes and bolts and nuts wouldn't be a better idea, then if a rusted bolt broke bolt while removing, a new bolt/nut could simply be used.
THIS!! I was thinking the exact same thing. Here is hoping that the truck stays in Florida from now on. Other than that, great job Ray.
I agree and have Drilled out the broken stud and thru bolted it when reassembled many time. On the manifold at least
I’m 72 but back in my youth . The flywheel bolts were 65 lbs torque . And torque converter bolts were 46 lbs never used a breaker bar . We never had electric ratchets either .
Ray, you need a 'DING fries are done' bell when you finish a project! You stay safe!
I would have chased the threads and then used anti-seize on the new studs.
Hey Ray - Great video! Curious, is it a bad idea to chase the manifold stud threads with a tap?
I agree, I would have ran a tap and installed those studs when I had all the room prior to transmission installation. Just saying.
Yay! Hell project done! As a mechanic, we've all had jobs that didn't go as planned or expected.
Ray, enjoy your vids. Please show us the FJ! Thanks for everything!
Why didn't you chase the threads on the exhaust flanges before installing new studs?
Great call .
36:25 "slip that guy in the back of the trans"
That was some unwanted 21st century content going on there.😂
It wasn't until you said this that I realized what was said in a slightly different context! 🫣
Try alignment pins like iron workers use, another thing I used to do. Is get several sizes of long shank bolts, cut the head off. The holes for the alignment pins on motor are so tight, a bolt shank gives you some wiggle room to get closer.
Putting studs in is a perfect time to use jam nuts.
That was seriously impressive, Ray. Your patience, skill and knowledge got you through what could never be described as an easy job! A great series of videos. Thank you.
Now THATS hilarious! This is 100% a showing of little skill, and never applied internet acquired "knowledge"!
Why didn't you chase the threads before you put studs in it would have been a whole lot easier. I always did that with exhaust boats are threads when I did mechanic work.
Why did you not torque the flexplate bolts, sure hope they don’t come loose.
My head hurts after that fall from the top of the trans and my safety glasses went flying. You could have double nutted the studs to install them. Good job, I bet your glad that ones almost done.