This channel has only gotten so much better since Ray opened his own shop, seriously man you're so much more fun to watch lately and I find it refreshing.
I couldn't quite put my finger on why Ray's channel has seem to be more improved..........but you said it perfectly! He has something called "Freedom" to do what he wants and be who he is now with his own shop!
Ray doing what I get called out for all of the time while training new techs. "Ok, raise the truck and get a sample. Move, let me push the button, give me that wrench, give me that cup, etc. Why are you just standing there"? 😂 Thanks for putting up with us, young fellas.
That’s what I pointed out in a previous post, when he started teaching Wife Unit, that he didn’t try to micromanage her,yet gave her enough information to make decisions. Sign of a good teacher!
One box of stainless wire brushes from McMaster is about what one can of brake cleaner and will remove more sludge faster than half dozen cans of aerosol poison. Just saying.
@@46bovine My shop used to generate 12 x 55 gallon barrels of metal shavings a day. Part of the job was for every machinist or machine operator to clean the machine tools, all work surfaces, and the floor during the last 30 minutes at the end of every shift. If you let a mess get ahead of you, then it becomes a really big job.
@@mikenyc1589 garage I go to nowadays he paints every few years, in there almost every Saturday cleaning the floors. Tools are all hanging up and each one has its place. Puts then back after reading each job as does his son.. The more I think about it if you are happy working in a mess good for you. I just think that as a customer you want to think the job was done complete and not half assed. If you don't have time to put tools away then can you get the job done right
Troy is looking like a brilliant addition to Rey's skills. He's a lucky kid and will learn a crap ton of stuff from Rey, who seams a great teacher and they both seem really chill to work alongside.
Was honestly surprised how much cleaner the valves and stuff looked the final time you took the valve cover off after running the cleaner through the engine. Seems to have cleared up the smoking problem. Also, seems like Troy genuinely enjoys learning. I can see why you hired him. Plus his personality meshes with yours perfectly, lol.
the cold start burned off lots of oil that dripped into cylinders from worn valve .stems seals, he needs to restart jeep tomorrow cold to see smoke issue was cured by BG
Got to admit, pleasantly surprised by the result. Pity you didn't do a compression test prior and post treatment. also an opinion of the power pre and post.
Im totally blasted by this super stuff effects.. since I was sure that this shit doesnt work... so next in line.. get the same stuff and do it on my jeep =P... can we get product links =P
@@IR-nq4qv the second option is seat of the pants, and really just guesswork, the first option would be factual observation. Nothing self contradictory about it.
Loved seeing Troy throw his official shirt on once he knew the camera was coming for him... and Ray, you showed much restraint in not mentioning the garden hose hack until the end 🤣
@Keelin Blackburn I appreciated the ingenuity of it... you gotta do whatcha gotta do. At the same time, it stuck out like a sore thumb and would have been an easy target for Ray to make a "Jeep thang" comment. 🤣
My day begins with watching a Rainman Ray's Repair video. This habit is starting to pay off. Yesterday I did an oil change in the driveway and it was the cleanest ever: no oil dry required. This video was an oil change to the n-th degree!
I've realized why I like Ray having Troy in the shop. Ray gets to banter with someone like he occasionally did in the other shop. Didn't realize I missed seeing/hearing that. It's a good dynamic for him. Also good to see Ray teaching.
I've got to comment on your ability to make me and obviously 10's of thousands of others tune in daily to the Ray hands-on mechanic show. You are a natural born walking, talking, and working showman, utterly amazing. You are blessed and a blessing, as it should be.
It is a great pleasure to watch a "Professional" mechanic and a truly gifted vehicle technician at work. Ray is worth every penny he makes and then some!!
Great video of the process. But the gasket you used (Fel-Pro VS 50458) is for the 96 and later with a steel valve cover. The part number for the aluminum valve cover is VS 50522...I learned that the hard way.
Love that BG process! Always impresses customers when you can show them before and after pictures of the valvetrain and the bottom end (if the sump is easy to remove) and when it saves them an engine rebuild it's even better!
Just as a tip, the shop I work at uses old electric floor cleaning pads in the oil drains to prevent oil splatter and it catches the drain plain and crap - approximately 24 inches across / circular
I did a engine flush ONCE before. (also on a jeep) It cleaned the engine so well that oil started leaking from each and every place possible. Like I said once!
Back in my dirt track racing days, we used to pull engines out of junk cars that were dirtier than that. We ran straight 40 Valvoline racing oil in them and after a few races, they were clean inside. We ran it because the Super America stations would have a sale on it in the spring. We bought cases of 24 cans for $7 a case in the 70s. The 40 weight kept the oil pressure up and the engines didn't smoke as much. In Florida, you could run 40 or even 50 weight oil. No need for multi-grade oils if it doesn't get cold.
67 year old mechanic. Back in the day we would put a quart or two of Ford ATF in the crankcase. It did a wonderful job cleaning push rods and eliminating sticky hydraulic lifters. I bought a used 76 Blazer in Alaska. When I got it the engine would clack at 50F for about 15 or twenty minutes. That's how bad the sludge was. After two oil changes with 2 quarts of ATF and Mobil One synthetic the engine would not make a sound at -40F. ATF is designed for tremendous pressure and long life so if you aren't racing during the cleaning cycle it does a really great job. Love your channel and your integrity.
Back in the day when we had oil cans, you would make a hole in opposite sides on the top. One for pouring and one for air. That's got nothing to do with this conversation but it reminded me of that.
Years ago, a buddy of mine had an old Ford truck with a 300 in line 6. It had a brazillion miles on it and it ran ROUGH! He was ready to ditch it, but I had an idea. We drained all of the oil and filled it with 5 qts of ATF and ran it for 30 mins. Drained it (all kinds of weird gloop and glop came out) filled it with 20w50 and it ran like a champ!
Those old Ford 300 I6 motors can last a million miles. They were originally tractor engines in the Ford and Fordson tractors from the 1950s. Low compression long stroke engines, you could almost run them on any liquid that would burn....
'grab me 1/4 extension. That's 3/8 drive'.' Been on both ends of that convo, you're an AMAZING teacher! Glad to see you running your own show like a champ
I’ve had a couple of these that you could rock the valves 1/16 after pulling the head apart. But the bottom end was ok. Crankcase flush and Decarbon helps a lot of them also. But it seems hot and miss. Nice work.
I've been using those BG kits at work to clear up badly neglected engines and get a conclusive answer on whether or not oil neglect killed them. Seeing the actual results is a real treat.
On old inline 6s, suggest you check the timing chain. Its probably super loose and at the same time, drop the pan and replace the oil pump. That motor would be good for another 200K miles.
I agree, I’d drop the pan, clean out the oil pickup tube, replace the oil pump, and change the timing chain and tensioner. That many miles means there is slack in a lot of the parts
Sure, then as long as you're in there, do the rod and main bearings. Better do the front and rear main seals too. Since the crank is out to do the rear main seal, better pull the heads and pistons so you can hone the cylinder bores and replace the rings. Since the heads are off, do the valve guide seals, and since the valves are out for the seals, better replace the guides. New guides means you should regrind the valves and seats to get proper sealing. Of course, since you already replaced the oil pump, you really should replace the water pump too, and no sense replacing the timing chain without replacing all the chain guides, the tensioner (does the jeep use a chain tensioner?), and all the belt pulleys and tensioner too. Finally, since everything else has been refurbished and replaced, why not make it a clean sweep and change out the alternator too. Ah, the hazards of "...while you're in there." 😀
You should tell Troy when pouring things to turn the spout so that it is top most and the handle of the jug is at the bottom. The liquid will flow nicely without the glug glug effect. Just a suggestion.
It makes it hard to start pouring accurately with the spout at the top as you are that much further from the oil filler or funnel. Holding the jugs sideways is a good compromise IMO.
I was thinking he should teach him when & what gloves to wear not to mention safety glasses.. these chemicals are toxic & many are linked to cancer. You make money with your hands & eyes, always protect them.. I’ve personally witnessed a tech lose eyesight in an eye
Any a owner of automobiles, I can’t stress this enough. Change your oil every 3,000 miles. Oil filters do not trap carbon. The percentage of carbon only rises as the miles tick off. And where do they land and cook off but around the piston and oil control rings. Every 3,00 miles keeps the carbon to a minimum as it winds its way through the system. Car makers tell you that every ten thousand Miles is recommended, but keep in mind, they are in the business of selling cars. The cleaner you keep your oil the longer the engine lasts.
re: that gasket... I wonder where that super scraper tool went... I have no need for such a tool, but it has been on my "like to have" tool list since Ray showed it some time ago. lol.
A pedestal-mounted bench grinder with a wire wheel installed makes quick work of the cork gasket. It’s also great for cleaning up the threads on crusty bolts.
I bought a car off a workmate once who told me he had for some reason it had a oil change but he had paid a bit more for engine flush too..driving it about a few weeks I had the oil light flick on a few times..looking into this i checked oil which was fine so put it down to dodgy connectors on the sender unit..so I cleaned all the contacts and the problem seemed to have be have cured..next day I was driving to the airport with the family in the car and driving on the motorway at 5am at 70mph the oil light flickered ten 10 seconds next 300 meters it came on solid before i could pull over the engine blew up and threw two crank rods though the engine block also resulting in a fire..lucky i had a fire extinguisher..turns out after stripping the engine down the oil pickup strainer was blocked with carbon that the engine flush had dislodged and starved the oil supply resulting in engine seizing, a very expensive oil change
Some oil flushes will dislodge the deposits but leave them elsewhere in the enigne. This is why you do an oil flush just before you drain the engine oil to get rid of the depsoits before they end up elsewhere in the enigne. The BG products get round this problem by keeping the deposits suspended in the oil so that they will all come out when the oil is drained. I suspect that whoever did the oil flush just added it after the oil was changed. Anyway, I swear by BG products myself and I absolutely trust them.
@@RainmanRaysRepairs y'know, I would, but I don't even live in the states, and I have no idea what I would have to say to get them to even consider it 😆
Hey Ray and Troy, that was a great video! That Jeep sounded just awful when you pilled it in and after the engine treatment it sounded like it should with no smoke. That stuff really works. Cheers!
We had Cherokees and Grand Cherokees growing up and I keep wanting to get an old one and get distracted by other craigslist junk...then you post this and makes me want one again.
Interesting video. Lots of work. Hope the "burns" heal quickly. Quick note: if you had sprayed the inside of the valve cover with Purple Power and let it set for a while, all of the grime/grit would have come out much easier.
I've used Purple Power full strength on a Subaru and Nissan valve cover and it got off all but the worst baked on varnished oil. I even used it on a rag to wipe the internals under the cover to remove baked on oil residue
@@shamanosarcasm9800 I have a K&N Air Filter and clean it about twice a year. I soak it in the PP and it lifts off all of the dirt and oil. Then I rinse and soak in a mild Dawn and water solution then rinse, dry and reapply K&N oil. Always looks almost like new.
Great video and when you got the cables installed you called the cruise control cable the kickdown cable, kickdown cable has that button on it to adjust it
Wow I was impressed with the hose replacement that someone did on this auto. Never seen a garden hose cut to be used on the engine and yes I am aware that it was a breather pipe so no pressure appeared to being put on it.
Pressure isn't the issue. They can take pressure. Oil vapor is the issue. Many of them absolutely CANNOT handle oil, and will turn to mush. However, the funny part about that is that the cheap vinyl garden hoses will handle it better than the expensive rubber ones. :)
Great explanation of what typically happens to newer engines in your intro! That’s the information I’m looking for right there. Having a better understanding of what commonly fails really helps narrow down things for me. Thanks!
The kid still needs to learn how to dodge a wrench because, yaknow, gravity! I can't count the number of times I've accidentally tattooed myself on the forehead like that... 🤣🤣🤣
I am waiting for the day when Ray throws the brake clean car across the shop floor and it lands in the upright and proper manner. That will be a very very good day. Let’s go!
I learned the hard way not to poke my finger through the foil cover under the cap. Without realizing it, a piece of foil broke off, and when I poured the fluid, a piece of foil went in. Now, I cut and peel the foil.
And what happened? What monumental disaster befell that engine from that itty-bitty piece of foil? (Ya know, not every piece of debris that gets into an engine is the end of the world.)
@@gregoryheim9781 If it's a small piece, it will get sucked into the oil pump, it may or may not damage the oil pump on it's way to the oil filter. If it's a big enough piece, it'll get caught by the pick up screen and starve the oil pump of oil. Either way, it's never good for foreign debris to fall into the crank case.
An old lad in the workshop I started out in many years ago used to dribble brake fluid down the carburettor air intake to “free stuck piston rings” and clean out “all the ****”!!!
Ray, why do you not have a parts washer? It must be more cost-effective than using brake cleaner, plus using the brush will mechanically help remove the gunge.
I've been internally screaming this to myself almost every video... a little actual rubbing with a rag/ carts cleaner brush goes a long way with the final clean up rinse with brake clean. I know Ray has his "Stich" with the whole "shiny" but it really aint all that clean just blasting a whole can at it in one go.
I would never do that expensive multi-step motion to my high millage Chevy. I add a cup of MMO to the oil about 300 miles before changing the oil. Keeps engine clean and running great at a VERY LOW cost and fuss.
Proof that you should service your oil and filter every 5,000 miles since it’s just such cheap insurance for your motor. The guy is lucky it’s a 4.0 boat anchor which are hard to kill even when neglected. Reminds me of the 7.3 Powerstroke. I have never even heard of this type of cleaning system that Ray used. I’m interested to see the oil filters on the next video.
A parts cleaner would work much better than all those cans of brake cleaner. Excellent work Ray! I like a mechanic that repairs instead of just replacing parts.
Put about a half a quart of transmission fluid in that thing and it will do wonders for the valve guide seals and the pan gasket probably. And it will do the final cleaning of most everything in there. Marvel Mystery Oil works great about a week before an oil change especially in that older style engine. It even works good in the new engines especially things like a 5.4 L Ford that has those small oil passages which operate the cam phaser. As well as the 4.7 and 3.6 others that have the hydraulic valve lash Adjusters.
Nice video Ray, as usual. How do you feel about pre-filling vertical oil filters? WRENCHING WITH KENNY and I think that any reduction in "dry run" time is a good thing. I can't imagine any negative side effects, but please weigh in. Thanks.
Im a regular here, but this video will prove to be super useful to me as I likely have sludged up piston rings that is causing a lot of oil smoke to be emitted from my exhaust in my 240sx. Thanks so much for making this! I have already replaced my valve stem seals while rebuilding my engine head (have not touched my core engine internals yet), and ever since the blue smoke issue persisted, I was planning on pulling the engine out and doing a full rebuild. I am wondering if it would be worth to attempt this first. If I have excessive oil burning, how likely is it that it is due to piston rings being really sludged up versus them being too worn (along with cyl walls)? The engine sat for 6 years before I bought the car. Since the bp kit you used is $~300, I am weighing my options.
Pull your spark plugs and check for oil residue in the chamber. Get a compression test done and record your numbers. Consider picking up an engine bore scope if you'd like a view inside the block before you tear down your core for a rebuild. If you're working with a ka24de like I think you are and you've rebuilt the head, rings may be gone and looks like you're in for rebuilding the internals with an overhaul kit and having your block tested/machined. A BG service like this will no doubt clean up your rotating assembly but I'm skeptical on whether it'd repair an internal seal by cleaning out buildup and debris. Best of luck to you
I personally always just buy whatever the cheapest brake parts cleaner I can find. At Walmart you can get the cheap stuff for like $2.99 a can. Since it's going to get used a can at a time pretty fast, it's a tiny bit cheaper. Also, some blends of parts cleaner are not flammable, while most are. Just something else to note if you ever use it as a substitute for starting fluid.
Hey Ray you probably already know but when working with hot surfaces we use mechanics gloves our auto stores here in Australia sell them all the time and saves from burns ...
This channel has only gotten so much better since Ray opened his own shop, seriously man you're so much more fun to watch lately and I find it refreshing.
I couldn't quite put my finger on why Ray's channel has seem to be more improved..........but you said it perfectly! He has something called "Freedom" to do what he wants and be who he is now with his own shop!
Ray doing what I get called out for all of the time while training new techs. "Ok, raise the truck and get a sample. Move, let me push the button, give me that wrench, give me that cup, etc. Why are you just standing there"? 😂 Thanks for putting up with us, young fellas.
That’s what I pointed out in a previous post, when he started teaching Wife Unit, that he didn’t try to micromanage her,yet gave her enough information to make decisions. Sign of a good teacher!
You sound like a douchebag
after enough time, you find that you live both sides. having someone to boss you around and steal all your earnings is nice in a way.
One box of stainless wire brushes from McMaster is about what one can of brake cleaner and will remove more sludge faster than half dozen cans of aerosol poison. Just saying.
Congrats to Troy for keeping shop clean and organized...looking good!!
Troy needs to visit my garage and do the same. So sayith Bob the Slob. I can’t keep the durn place neat.
@@46bovine LOL...probably most shops are messy
@@46bovine My shop used to generate 12 x 55 gallon barrels of metal shavings a day. Part of the job was for every machinist or machine operator to clean the machine tools, all work surfaces, and the floor during the last 30 minutes at the end of every shift. If you let a mess get ahead of you, then it becomes a really big job.
@@mikenyc1589 garage I go to nowadays he paints every few years, in there almost every Saturday cleaning the floors. Tools are all hanging up and each one has its place. Puts then back after reading each job as does his son.. The more I think about it if you are happy working in a mess good for you. I just think that as a customer you want to think the job was done complete and not half assed. If you don't have time to put tools away then can you get the job done right
Troy is looking like a brilliant addition to Rey's skills. He's a lucky kid and will learn a crap ton of stuff from Rey, who seams a great teacher and they both seem really chill to work alongside.
My favorite!! Love my 94' and 95' Cherokee 4.0!! Thanks Ray!!
Was honestly surprised how much cleaner the valves and stuff looked the final time you took the valve cover off after running the cleaner through the engine. Seems to have cleared up the smoking problem. Also, seems like Troy genuinely enjoys learning. I can see why you hired him. Plus his personality meshes with yours perfectly, lol.
the cold start burned off lots of oil that dripped into cylinders from worn valve .stems seals, he needs to restart jeep tomorrow cold to see smoke issue was cured by BG
Got to admit, pleasantly surprised by the result. Pity you didn't do a compression test prior and post treatment. also an opinion of the power pre and post.
Great idea! 👍
Im totally blasted by this super stuff effects.. since I was sure that this shit doesnt work... so next in line.. get the same stuff and do it on my jeep =P... can we get product links =P
@@worldsend69 busy ppls .. come here to north Finland and try that again... I bet some sort aneurysm while trying it
take for a spin, if it run good, there you go, but on a engine that old, i would go 10w40, my 318 seen to like it more than the 10w30
@@IR-nq4qv the second option is seat of the pants, and really just guesswork, the first option would be factual observation. Nothing self contradictory about it.
Congrats to Troy for keeping the shop clean. Both of you are making a great team.
The Top 2 Engine Restorations on the planet, BG EPR and BG Dynamic Engine Restoration….Excellent demonstration Ray and Troy
Loved seeing Troy throw his official shirt on once he knew the camera was coming for him... and Ray, you showed much restraint in not mentioning the garden hose hack until the end 🤣
I liked the garden hose 😂 reminds me of stuff Pole Barn Garage would do
@Keelin Blackburn I appreciated the ingenuity of it... you gotta do whatcha gotta do. At the same time, it stuck out like a sore thumb and would have been an easy target for Ray to make a "Jeep thang" comment. 🤣
My day begins with watching a Rainman Ray's Repair video. This habit is starting to pay off. Yesterday I did an oil change in the driveway and it was the cleanest ever: no oil dry required.
This video was an oil change to the n-th degree!
I'm a home repair specialist and I still start my day everyday with watching Ray. That was not meant to rhyme it just happened
@@briandasno1714 "It might work-it might not. But it's definitely worth a shot." -- accidental poem by Rainman Ray
Did you say click a few times lol
@@mmes307ify That's an old one, even for us millenials, AvE was the steward of that term.
I've realized why I like Ray having Troy in the shop.
Ray gets to banter with someone like he occasionally did in the other shop. Didn't realize I missed seeing/hearing that. It's a good dynamic for him.
Also good to see Ray teaching.
Yep, when I first round Ray he had Peter working in the next bay.
I almost initiated the Pepsi cleaning process on my screen with the deer gif LOL
I've got to comment on your ability to make me and obviously 10's of thousands of others tune in daily to the Ray hands-on mechanic show. You are a natural born walking, talking, and working showman, utterly amazing. You are blessed and a blessing, as it should be.
I think you mean "one-hand mechanic"
It is a great pleasure to watch a "Professional" mechanic and a truly gifted vehicle technician at work. Ray is worth every penny he makes and then some!!
Great video of the process. But the gasket you used (Fel-Pro VS 50458) is for the 96 and later with a steel valve cover. The part number for the aluminum valve cover is VS 50522...I learned that the hard way.
Love that BG process! Always impresses customers when you can show them before and after pictures of the valvetrain and the bottom end (if the sump is easy to remove) and when it saves them an engine rebuild it's even better!
Just as a tip, the shop I work at uses old electric floor cleaning pads in the oil drains to prevent oil splatter and it catches the drain plain and crap - approximately 24 inches across / circular
I did a engine flush ONCE before. (also on a jeep) It cleaned the engine so well that oil started leaking from each and every place possible. Like I said once!
Back in my dirt track racing days, we used to pull engines out of junk cars that were dirtier than that. We ran straight 40 Valvoline racing oil in them and after a few races, they were clean inside. We ran it because the Super America stations would have a sale on it in the spring. We bought cases of 24 cans for $7 a case in the 70s. The 40 weight kept the oil pressure up and the engines didn't smoke as much. In Florida, you could run 40 or even 50 weight oil. No need for multi-grade oils if it doesn't get cold.
67 year old mechanic. Back in the day we would put a quart or two of Ford ATF in the crankcase. It did a wonderful job cleaning push rods and eliminating sticky hydraulic lifters. I bought a used 76 Blazer in Alaska. When I got it the engine would clack at 50F for about 15 or twenty minutes. That's how bad the sludge was. After two oil changes with 2 quarts of ATF and Mobil One synthetic the engine would not make a sound at -40F. ATF is designed for tremendous pressure and long life so if you aren't racing during the cleaning cycle it does a really great job. Love your channel and your integrity.
That was supposed to read "not make a sound at -40F
Lol, I especially love the garden hose tubing. Definitely a Jeep thing!
I’d probably change the oil after 500 miles or so. Might also drop the pan and check the pickup tube.
Anyone else notice that Ray left the oil drain plug magnet on the bottom of the lift arm . I think Troy grabbed it .
Yes I saw the dangly bits!
Yeah I noticed that too lol
At least attached to the lift arm, he knows it will stay in the shop. 😊
One of the most interesting oil changes I’ve seen.
It would appear that those snake oil cleaners really do work; I hope Ray gets around to showing us what the filters caught.
@@imagseer It depends on which ones. Some are definitely better than others.
When Troy got splashed by the hot oil.... That scream tho.
I’ve found that pouring oil with the opening at the top instead of the bottom allows air to displace the oil eliminating the glug glug effect
I hold the jug sideways.
I prefer a funnel.
@@thomas7770 ? We're talking about How you pour the oil not what you pour it into.
@@NoWr2Run oh, in that case I go with a 47 degree tilt of the oil jug.
Back in the day when we had oil cans, you would make a hole in opposite sides on the top. One for pouring and one for air. That's got nothing to do with this conversation but it reminded me of that.
lol the garden hose is cracking me up.
Years ago, a buddy of mine had an old Ford truck with a 300 in line 6. It had a brazillion miles on it and it ran ROUGH! He was ready to ditch it, but I had an idea. We drained all of the oil and filled it with 5 qts of ATF and ran it for 30 mins. Drained it (all kinds of weird gloop and glop came out) filled it with 20w50 and it ran like a champ!
If you keep the oil changed regularly, that engine will go 500,000 miles no problem.
Those old Ford 300 I6 motors can last a million miles. They were originally tractor engines in the Ford and Fordson tractors from the 1950s. Low compression long stroke engines, you could almost run them on any liquid that would burn....
I love the XJs!! I have a 92 and its a beast!
I saw the drain plug magnet hanging on the bottom of the rack when it was going down, hopefully it didn't crush the handle.
'grab me 1/4 extension. That's 3/8 drive'.'
Been on both ends of that convo, you're an AMAZING teacher! Glad to see you running your own show like a champ
I think that's the most love that old Jeep has had in many moons.
Please never stop throwing those spray cans. True wrench man class.
Your #1
I’ve had a couple of these that you could rock the valves 1/16 after pulling the head apart. But the bottom end was ok.
Crankcase flush and Decarbon helps a lot of them also. But it seems hot and miss.
Nice work.
Hot stuff eh??
I've been using those BG kits at work to clear up badly neglected engines and get a conclusive answer on whether or not oil neglect killed them. Seeing the actual results is a real treat.
On old inline 6s, suggest you check the timing chain. Its probably super loose and at the same time, drop the pan and replace the oil pump. That motor would be good for another 200K miles.
I agree, I’d drop the pan, clean out the oil pickup tube, replace the oil pump, and change the timing chain and tensioner. That many miles means there is slack in a lot of the parts
Sure, then as long as you're in there, do the rod and main bearings. Better do the front and rear main seals too. Since the crank is out to do the rear main seal, better pull the heads and pistons so you can hone the cylinder bores and replace the rings. Since the heads are off, do the valve guide seals, and since the valves are out for the seals, better replace the guides. New guides means you should regrind the valves and seats to get proper sealing. Of course, since you already replaced the oil pump, you really should replace the water pump too, and no sense replacing the timing chain without replacing all the chain guides, the tensioner (does the jeep use a chain tensioner?), and all the belt pulleys and tensioner too. Finally, since everything else has been refurbished and replaced, why not make it a clean sweep and change out the alternator too.
Ah, the hazards of "...while you're in there." 😀
@@douglasburnside and after all that is accomplished why not add a new jeep too.
That would be cost effective if planning to keep engine.
@@douglasburnside Ha, ha! It never ends, does it? Those "while you are there" moments will get expensive.
Can never stop the 4 liter from leaking oil, just slow it down a bit. Impressed with the cleaner.
You should tell Troy when pouring things to turn the spout so that it is top most and the handle of the jug is at the bottom. The liquid will flow nicely without the glug glug effect. Just a suggestion.
It makes it hard to start pouring accurately with the spout at the top as you are that much further from the oil filler or funnel. Holding the jugs sideways is a good compromise IMO.
I was thinking he should teach him when & what gloves to wear not to mention safety glasses.. these chemicals are toxic & many are linked to cancer. You make money with your hands & eyes, always protect them..
I’ve personally witnessed a tech lose eyesight in an eye
if you hold the bottle so the handle is horizontal (sideways), the fluid won't block the hole (Which is what causes the glug-glug)
Or you can turn the jug sideways that works too
Was that Troy's first "on air" pouring things?
Ray has given me the inspiration to get back to automotive work. I did miss it.
I always loved to see the learning curve of my trainees. The more eager they are the faster they learn. Good job Troy 💪
Hello everybody good day to you ❤
Back at you 👌😎
Hello people, please excuse me while I add a quart of oil to my truck, it’s a piece of $hit.
Hey hey! Good day to you too!
Gosh Ray, red rags galore and a bonus fender cover, now that's 1st class !!!!!
in my country it was done with kerosene and it worked, I wonder what the difference is in the effectiveness of the new will to the old solutions.
You are correct . 30 years ago we also used kerosene here .
Any a owner of automobiles, I can’t stress this enough. Change your oil every 3,000 miles. Oil filters do not trap carbon. The percentage of carbon only rises as the miles tick off. And where do they land and cook off but around the piston and oil control rings. Every 3,00 miles keeps the carbon to a minimum as it winds its way through the system. Car makers tell you that every ten thousand Miles is recommended, but keep in mind, they are in the business of selling cars. The cleaner you keep your oil the longer the engine lasts.
re: that gasket... I wonder where that super scraper tool went...
I have no need for such a tool, but it has been on my "like to have" tool list since Ray showed it some time ago. lol.
You referring to the carbide edge gasket scraper? Good tool, two thumbs up 👍🏻👍🏻
I bought one because of ray. I havent used it on my truck yet but I did use to to remove some silicone gunk from around my sink drain, its super nice
That is what I was wondering.
My dad taught me to use a sharpened metal putty knife for scraping off gaskets. Works pretty well!
A pedestal-mounted bench grinder with a wire wheel installed makes quick work of the cork gasket. It’s also great for cleaning up the threads on crusty bolts.
i use my bench grinder wire wheel constantly it is great for rust removal
The gray vacuum line goes on the top of the heater valve. 👍😉
@ 38:12 Ray couldn’t fight the urge, he just had to get in on that Brake Cleaner action. He couldn’t let T-Dog have all the fun. 😂😂😂
I bought a car off a workmate once who told me he had for some reason it had a oil change but he had paid a bit more for engine flush too..driving it about a few weeks I had the oil light flick on a few times..looking into this i checked oil which was fine so put it down to dodgy connectors on the sender unit..so I cleaned all the contacts and the problem seemed to have be have cured..next day I was driving to the airport with the family in the car and driving on the motorway at 5am at 70mph the oil light flickered ten 10 seconds next 300 meters it came on solid before i could pull over the engine blew up and threw two crank rods though the engine block also resulting in a fire..lucky i had a fire extinguisher..turns out after stripping the engine down the oil pickup strainer was blocked with carbon that the engine flush had dislodged and starved the oil supply resulting in engine seizing, a very expensive oil change
Some oil flushes will dislodge the deposits but leave them elsewhere in the enigne. This is why you do an oil flush just before you drain the engine oil to get rid of the depsoits before they end up elsewhere in the enigne. The BG products get round this problem by keeping the deposits suspended in the oil so that they will all come out when the oil is drained. I suspect that whoever did the oil flush just added it after the oil was changed. Anyway, I swear by BG products myself and I absolutely trust them.
Since you guys are now XJ mechanics, I’m bringing mine in from Colorado!
Try using a quart of atf its all thin oil and detergent run for a few days and change out works pretty good
While I love the brake cleaner jobs, wouldn't a proper parts washer be more economical for things like valve covers and oil pans?
BG should sponsor this man! He deserves it!
Someone call them for me
@@RainmanRaysRepairs y'know, I would, but I don't even live in the states, and I have no idea what I would have to say to get them to even consider it 😆
Hey Ray and Troy, that was a great video! That Jeep sounded just awful when you pilled it in and after the engine treatment it sounded like it should with no smoke. That stuff really works. Cheers!
We had Cherokees and Grand Cherokees growing up and I keep wanting to get an old one and get distracted by other craigslist junk...then you post this and makes me want one again.
thoroughly enjoyed this video. good to see you and Troy together working on a vehicle. Can't wait for more. Keep it up!!
Interesting video. Lots of work. Hope the "burns" heal quickly.
Quick note: if you had sprayed the inside of the valve cover with Purple Power and let it set for a while, all of the grime/grit would have come out much easier.
I've used Purple Power full strength on a Subaru and Nissan valve cover and it got off all but the worst baked on varnished oil. I even used it on a rag to wipe the internals under the cover to remove baked on oil residue
@@shamanosarcasm9800 I have a K&N Air Filter and clean it about twice a year. I soak it in the PP and it lifts off all of the dirt and oil. Then I rinse and soak in a mild Dawn and water solution then rinse, dry and reapply K&N oil. Always looks almost like new.
Great video and when you got the cables installed you called the cruise control cable the kickdown cable, kickdown cable has that button on it to adjust it
Wow I was impressed with the hose replacement that someone did on this auto. Never seen a garden hose cut to be used on the engine and yes I am aware that it was a breather pipe so no pressure appeared to being put on it.
I've seen the garden hose mod on a Dodge Scaravan.
Did Ray reuse it or replace it with the correct hose?
Pressure isn't the issue. They can take pressure. Oil vapor is the issue. Many of them absolutely CANNOT handle oil, and will turn to mush. However, the funny part about that is that the cheap vinyl garden hoses will handle it better than the expensive rubber ones. :)
Great explanation of what typically happens to newer engines in your intro! That’s the information I’m looking for right there. Having a better understanding of what commonly fails really helps narrow down things for me. Thanks!
I love when Ray is bantering and at the same time teasing Troy…….it’s like Ray has gone back in time and is doing it to his younger self 😂😂😂
Troy gets teased about not wearing shirts, he should get Ray on wearing shorts 🤣
The kid still needs to learn how to dodge a wrench because, yaknow, gravity! I can't count the number of times I've accidentally tattooed myself on the forehead like that... 🤣🤣🤣
It's like going back in hisTroyRay
Trolling the Trolls, love it! @236k on my 99XJ it would probably appreciate that service ✌️ (that's a Jeep thing)🤣
I am waiting for the day when Ray throws the brake clean car across the shop floor and it lands in the upright and proper manner. That will be a very very good day. Let’s go!
That old AMC derived inline 6 has been a workhorse for decades, and i6's are naturally balanced.👍
I learned the hard way not to poke my finger through the foil cover under the cap. Without realizing it, a piece of foil broke off, and when I poured the fluid, a piece of foil went in. Now, I cut and peel the foil.
it is ok those who like to engine repairs or replacement say do not change your ways
And what happened? What monumental disaster befell that engine from that itty-bitty piece of foil?
(Ya know, not every piece of debris that gets into an engine is the end of the world.)
@@gregoryheim9781 If it's a small piece, it will get sucked into the oil pump, it may or may not damage the oil pump on it's way to the oil filter. If it's a big enough piece, it'll get caught by the pick up screen and starve the oil pump of oil. Either way, it's never good for foreign debris to fall into the crank case.
It's one of those things that bug me when I open those bottles. I poke them open and peel back the foil and plastic before pouring it.
I just got a funnel that has a piercer and a filter screen.
An old lad in the workshop I started out in many years ago used to dribble brake fluid down the carburettor air intake to “free stuck piston rings” and clean out “all the ****”!!!
You need a parts washer . A small brush and solvent does way better job than brake cleaner and is way more cost effective . Great video
that is Oscar winning acting moment, throwing farther each time, now he can have a Brakeclean contest with Troy, who is the first to empty a can.
Obviously,but then he wouldn't be able to see you get all anxed about it and post these comments. LOL
He has one in the corner but doesn’t use it
@@CodycoWeb sorry for Troy who will pay dearly to breathe in the BK solvent daily. He tried to cover mouth with a cloth.
I owned a 88 jeep Cherokee when I sold it t had 488,000 on it and didn't use a drop of oil. 4.0 great jeep. Changed oil every 5 k.
Ray, why do you not have a parts washer? It must be more cost-effective than using brake cleaner, plus using the brush will mechanically help remove the gunge.
Great question
He does, name's Troy !😊
Has one. He commented before it failed. Question is..... did he or is he going to fix it.
I've been internally screaming this to myself almost every video... a little actual rubbing with a rag/ carts cleaner brush goes a long way with the final clean up rinse with brake clean. I know Ray has his "Stich" with the whole "shiny" but it really aint all that clean just blasting a whole can at it in one go.
This man is pretty freaking smart and I think he is a honest mechanic
Happy Tuesday Ray. Very excited to see this service as that Jeep is a smoker.
I would never do that expensive multi-step motion to my high millage Chevy. I add a cup of MMO to the oil about 300 miles before changing the oil. Keeps engine clean and running great at a VERY LOW cost and fuss.
I love your channel, but I especially love the Jeep XJ videos. I've been wanting to try this with my 88 Wagoneer XJ. Thanks for showing the way!
Awesome seeing you and Troy your Padawan, working together a little more on camera. Not a Jedi yet he is.
Great video Ray! Really enjoyed watching the process and how effective the cleaners were.
Proof that you should service your oil and filter every 5,000 miles since it’s just such cheap insurance for your motor. The guy is lucky it’s a 4.0 boat anchor which are hard to kill even when neglected. Reminds me of the 7.3 Powerstroke. I have never even heard of this type of cleaning system that Ray used. I’m interested to see the oil filters on the next video.
Nice results Ray! Sometimes that works only temporary and sometimes it last a long time. That engine surely wasn't taken care over the years.
A parts cleaner would work much better than all those cans of brake cleaner. Excellent work Ray! I like a mechanic that repairs instead of just replacing parts.
Put about a half a quart of transmission fluid in that thing and it will do wonders for the valve guide seals and the pan gasket probably. And it will do the final cleaning of most everything in there. Marvel Mystery Oil works great about a week before an oil change especially in that older style engine. It even works good in the new engines especially things like a 5.4 L Ford that has those small oil passages which operate the cam phaser. As well as the 4.7 and 3.6 others that have the hydraulic valve lash Adjusters.
I am absolutely loving the garden hose pipe repair job on the pcv valve. Impressed!😂
That was definitely a great video.❤
I love watching you! And while I did not think I would see this again, at 40:00 you again showed us you are out to launch!
Just think, we did not have those expensive additives when growing up, we used kerosene.
Kerosene is now really expensive in Australia.
a lot of us used ATF and #2 diesel (though #1 would have been better).
Hey Dom, does that work in Diesel engines also?
Thanks
B12 chemtool….by the gallon.
Putty knives work great for Cork Gasket Removal... they're thinner than a screwdriver, and flexible enough to get under the cork.
Nice video Ray, as usual. How do you feel about pre-filling vertical oil filters? WRENCHING WITH KENNY and I think that any reduction in "dry run" time is a good thing. I can't imagine any negative side effects, but please weigh in. Thanks.
RAY YOU ROCK - YOU USED A FENDER COVER - AND TROLLED ME - I LOVE IT - GREAT WORK MY FRIEND.
I love it when a guy is trying to make a quality video in the shop and it seems like it is the day for testing impacts and die grinders😅😅😂😂
Im a regular here, but this video will prove to be super useful to me as I likely have sludged up piston rings that is causing a lot of oil smoke to be emitted from my exhaust in my 240sx. Thanks so much for making this! I have already replaced my valve stem seals while rebuilding my engine head (have not touched my core engine internals yet), and ever since the blue smoke issue persisted, I was planning on pulling the engine out and doing a full rebuild. I am wondering if it would be worth to attempt this first. If I have excessive oil burning, how likely is it that it is due to piston rings being really sludged up versus them being too worn (along with cyl walls)? The engine sat for 6 years before I bought the car. Since the bp kit you used is $~300, I am weighing my options.
Pull your spark plugs and check for oil residue in the chamber. Get a compression test done and record your numbers. Consider picking up an engine bore scope if you'd like a view inside the block before you tear down your core for a rebuild. If you're working with a ka24de like I think you are and you've rebuilt the head, rings may be gone and looks like you're in for rebuilding the internals with an overhaul kit and having your block tested/machined. A BG service like this will no doubt clean up your rotating assembly but I'm skeptical on whether it'd repair an internal seal by cleaning out buildup and debris. Best of luck to you
This is only the beginning of the adventures of castor Troy and ray and I like it 💪🏻
"Fire in the hole!!"
That was a good one, Troy... 🤣😎
If it continues to smoke you might want to check the stem seals. It seems that the 4.0l engine will be a little smoky if those get hardened.
Good job. You saved the program. Good for another 100k.
Ray, we need a review of the amsoil brake clean. From one dealer to another, it's for science! Haha
I personally always just buy whatever the cheapest brake parts cleaner I can find. At Walmart you can get the cheap stuff for like $2.99 a can. Since it's going to get used a can at a time pretty fast, it's a tiny bit cheaper. Also, some blends of parts cleaner are not flammable, while most are. Just something else to note if you ever use it as a substitute for starting fluid.
I did EPR on Honda 3.5 smokey and bandit engine, had it runniing for quiet good time and yes , smoke is gone. great video material, thanks
The smoke looked white not blue, is that just because of the camera? Keep up the good work!!
When it's oil smoke you only see the blue tint clearly when it disperses out into the air away from the tail pipe.
It was very satisfying to see that procedure actually reduce exhaust significantly.
That straight 6 was one bear of an engine. Wicked good low end torque.
Hey Ray you probably already know but when working with hot surfaces we use mechanics gloves our auto stores here in Australia sell them all the time and saves from burns ...
Ah yes I love a good scientific process engine cleaning. thanks ray I cant wait to see the results