I used to work for 1 of the biggest tyre manufacturers in the world, Michelin. We used petroleum solvent to stick the rubber together and also to break it apart
Yes you did but that was the uncured or before vulcanising stage of the process. The important point about the antioxidants in the sidewall is that they migrate to the surface of the vulcanised product throughout the tyres life in order to protect the tyre from UV degradation. If you use a solvent on the tyre sidewall then it will wash off the antioxidant and more will then migrate to the surface to replace it. Eventually if you are a frequent user of solvents or indeed if you kerb your car often enough all the antioxidants will have been used up and the sidewalls will suffer UV degradation.
Where would we be without your channel Jon? Just by looking down the comments and looking at the likes/dislikes its clear you have encouraged discussion and that can only be good for the detailing world. I think a lot of people just follow the crowd without giving a lot of thought to the detail & nervous about challenging what the "experts" say. Well done mate, as always love your videos👍
I agree. I'm mostly interested in making my expensive tyres last longer, i.e. reducing the effects of rubber cracking and perishing. From what I understand age and UV play a part in that so I sort of understand the UV protection part and the fact that the contact patch and inside sidewall aren't exposed to much UV at all. Sometimes I put a bit of CarPro Perl on, but only when the tyres get old, when they're new I don't think they need anything other than a good clean.
I do understand what you are getting at Jon having worked as a chemist, but as you know the antiozonants is part of the average tyre makeup, but when it reaches the air on the surface of the tyre you get the actual browning or gassing. Using solvents sold to the general public in car cleaning are not strong enough to damage the makeup of the tyre. All tyres have a shelf life of about 6 years and have to be swapped at 10 years without fail. Those same hydrocarbon solvents vs halo or oxygen is the solvent of choice due to mass production and not specifically harmful to the environment. But you could use a solvent based cleaner once a month and apply a dressing on you tyre for the lifespan of that tyre so 6-10 years and the tyre would not fail due to you using a solvent. It would fail from no more tread or old age far before a hydrocarbon solvent could actually effect a tyre properly. This has to do with the length the solvent is allowed to work before rinsing. Sure a strong hydrocarbon solvent like a commercial drain cleaning solvent with a ph close to ph14, yeah that would break down the organic rubber on the tyre if left submerged in a vat. Yes, btw to your question in the video, you could clean you rubber with a ph neutral soap, and a stiff brush, apply a tyre dressing and that’s just as good.
yer its important to say its not like your tyres will expload if you clean them with mineral spirit or IPA and water. But I think a hydrocarbon adhesive remover product will degrade rubber reasonably well.. In fact we have people here commenting that have worked in tyre manufacturing confirming this. So its probably more a case of best practise.
Sled Supreme interesting. Why is it modern tyres only last a few years - as you say they go hard and crack- but I have some classic cars with tyres made in the early 1960s so we’ll over 50 years old and the rubber is still fine, no cracking and they still grip, we’re they just made with more natural rubber back then?
Yes, Jon I agree with you it does have to do with duration, chemical strength, and technique. Yes I know no one would actually try to kill their tyre with chemicals for fun. Okay so UKDavid to answer your question there is different types of synthetic rubbers. They all degrade and gas at different rates, fun fact this was mainly discovered due to the fact that in them1940’s natural rubber became expensive. So yes you are correct there are older tyres that can absolutely last longer. Due to how we look at tyres today for, fuel consumption/rolling resistance and alter the ratios for specific climate and temperature, they are safer and have far more added components that end up hurting their half life for lack of a better term. Sorry for the late response
@@sledsupreme287 Thanks, that makes perfect sense, thinking of modern tyres I've bought in recent years it is the ones that perform best - especially noise and wet grip - that seem to degrade a bit more quickly, but if the additives means they only last 6 years before obvious cracking rather than 12 years is a worthwhile trade-off for that performance. And I guess that also explains why they get noisier as they get older. Wish more people would take notice of tyres, so many driving round in cars which could be so much better and safer with new tyres.
Whenever the discussion of using solvents on tires comes up I'm always remind people how many solvents and hydrocarbons flow through rubber lines. Like gas and fuel lines.
It’s mind blowing this isn’t more understood and expressed in this industry. Simply when you spend 700-1,200$ for a set of new tires you’d think this simple KEY piece of information education would be shared. It’s Basic. It’s so so basic and yet not at all shared leading to understandable harmful destructive “cleaning” practices and unnecessary product purchases, including new tires with much shorter lifespans. All in the name of trying to rid that “brown stuff” washing the tire over and over and over wondering where could all this “dirt” (inherent tire protectant) be coming from. This industry feeds off ignorance. When something so incredibly basic to understand could prevent a lot of wasted time and money is not being shared frequently and openly. Thank you for your thorough and thoughtful walkthrough.
I agree. I’ll typically use Surfex at 1/10, but I have as a one off used a tar remover and a microfiber towel to scrub clean. It would be interesting to do a real life test on an old tyre to see if it draws the moisture out or fades/cracks the tyre.
Just to add to the discussion... Tyres do degrade and crack over time. My 2015 mk7 golf failed it’s mot due to cracked tyres that were 5 years old. Car is left outside, not garaged. So I always look for tyre dressing with uv protection. Great video with some Great points. Keep it up. 👍🏻
Jon, I never knew the brown stuff was part of the tyre composition. You learn something new everyday... You haven't disappointed lol. For me, solvents are a huge no no on rubber. GT Therapy Wheel Shampoo and some Zero Decon for a tyre scrub, then Carpro Perl neat for dressing. Perfect combo. Can't see why anyone would decide to use a solvent on rubber! Daft as.....
As someone who is starting out in detailing. Your videos have been incredibly educational. This particular video does go against a few of the videos I've seen about solvents on Tyres. It's not something I thought about in any great depth, but as you've talked about the reasons against solvents on Tyres, it makes absolutely perfect sense why it's a bad idea to use solvents.
I use surfex hd for cleaning tyres if I want to add tyre dressing to the previously applied tyre dressing. But for stripping back all the old tyre dressing off valet pro bilberry at 1:10 works best for me. Using solvents is a no go for me, bilberry does the trick. 👍🏼🙂
I have to agree with your most interesting explanation Jon. I use an NA alloy wheel cleaner for my alloys and nothing to clean the tyres because I have a commercial hot pressure cleaner which cleans the tyres without the need for any scrubbing. However, I do confess to using a solvent based tyre dressing for the main purpose of aesthetics and the manufacturers claims of longevity and UV protection. The one I use and have used for years is Meguairs ’Endurance’ which is highly viscous and difficult to apply sparingly. To get around this problem I ‘dilute’ the ‘Endurance’ with another Meguairs tyre dressing product called ‘Hot Wheels’ which has a viscosity a lot thinner than ‘Endurance’. With both products mixed together the final product becomes a lot more user friendly and cost effective. The overall appearance is better controlled too. I do believe there is some benefits to dressing tyres regardless of them being water or solvent based. Besides the obvious aesthetics, dressings would be absorbed into the tyre as the tyre rubber structure is porous. I’m not sure there are any UV benefits as it is impossible to quantify. I have used water based dressings which I do not consider them durable enough.
Im talking more about cleaning with solvents. But I guess solvent based dressings and water based dressings is relevent to this. Do you find megs endurence never actually dries.. like ever?
@@ForensicDetailing Jon my bad🤦🏻♂️.....I didn’t realise people cleaned their tyres with solvents?!😳 On the subject of Meguairs ‘Endurance’ in its pure form it is like Golden Syrup, hence the reason I ‘dilute’ it with Meguairs ‘Hot Wheels’. The resultant product is easier to apply and the end results are one of a very good aesthetic appearance coupled with very good durability. If applied thinly and left for a while to absorb into the tyre and dry, followed by a final wipe over the attraction of road grime is negligible......give it a try😉 I will say that because my Meguairs concoction is durable, if attempts to remove it using soapy water at the next car wash, it will ‘de foam’ the ‘soapy’ water, an occurrence that I no longer have to worry about using a hot commercial pressure washer.
Yes, I never used solvent based solutions because I remembered that being discussed in my 2 chemistry classes at school when I was in high school from 1983 and 1984. What we had available then was Armor all and used Turtle Wax too.
IMHO having fitted allot of tyres in my time you always find the side wall that faces out goes hard, now i don't know if it's UV or just the only part of the tyre that gets regular exposure to detergent / alloy wheel cleaner but some thing makes the outward facing side wall go hard over time. My personal opinion is that UV/Heat draws the antiozonant to the surface and then wash it off with detergent because the brown looks unsightly...... I currently put Optimum tyre protect on my tyres as a sealer, it lasts about a month before it wants redoing and the thumb nail test tells me that the inner and outer side walls are still about the same softness (there doesn't appear to be any cracks starting to show in the side wall)......i don't get brown marks and i just give them a quick once over with some wash and wax to get them clean (they never look glossy but dirt doesn't stick to them, take into account they haven't seen a winter with this product on yet).
I've been using Meguiar's for years but am now questioning whether I should continue with it. We'll see. No-one wants a nice shiny car and grubby tyres but not at the expense of breaking down the components in the tyre itself. As always, food for thought. Look forward to your opinions on the different dressings on the market.
I am amazed at people talking about brown stuff on tyres, I have never seen it on any of my tyres which in general are within 3 years old and that is determined by my milage. It is rare to get much more than 30K miles out of the driving wheels and if you are lucky perhaps another 10K out of the non driving wheels. That is going to be well within the 10 year lifespan of a reputable make of tyre. Where I am aware of brown staining is on cheap whitewall tyres where the white rubber becomes contaminated by amines that migrate from the main body and rubber compounds of the black tyre. Quality tyre makers isolate the white wall with a non staining barrier from the rest of the tyre. I can only surmise that the brown stuff is from rubber compounds that have begun to breakdown for various reasons such as use of solvents. Some interesting comments below about tyres going hard, it may interest people that a new tyre is not 100% vulcanised, it is the vulcanising that gives the rubber compounds their stiffness so as a true ages the vulcanising process continues and the tyre will become hard this can be accelerated by excessive heat generation caused by heavy breaking, under inflation etc. In short wash your tyres with detergent nothing else avoid solvents and paints the tyre formulation didn't expect them to be used. Yes I did work in the tyre industry.
Not going to lie I use tar remover to clean my tyres works brilliant dissolves old tyre dressing like it's nottin clean then again for fresh tyre dressing product
I have a 2007 gmc pickup with original tires ( yes I know tires are only rated for 5 years) and 57000 kms. This truck has always been stored inside. For the last 13 years I have cleaned the tires a couple of times per year with a 1:1 spraynine mixer prior to dressing the tire. At present I have seen no cracking or degradation of the tire where the spraynine has been used. I also think most people will only own a tire for approximately 2 years before it needs replacement so from my experience I am ok using spraynine on a tire for cleaning a few times per year.
Good video . You just want a tyre to look clean along with the rest.of the car. Some people are taking this detailing to a different level! Way to many products out there that mainly do the same thing. Ive gone with Bilthamber for cleaning power and Meguairs for correction and polishing. Keeping it simple
Smashing insight regarding tyres, yet another interesting discussion. I will definitely look at how I address finishing my tyres when purchasing future products.
Only used to clean the tyre with car shampoo at end of top to bottom wash. When applying old solvent Autoglym dressing always wondered why rags were so filthy. You don't use solvents to clean your hands as it strips natural oils same with rubber. Now do it your way and been converted to Carpro perl at 2/1 getting better performance and finish than ever before. Do get starred at scrubbing tyres though by neighbours.
@@SparkleanAutos for sure on your daily driver but not necessarily on your weekend whip. What I'm trying to say is that the heat and UV kills the rubber.
I also live in Ireland. If you don't drive every day they can crack through UV. I got a car with quite meh Nexen N8000 tyres, as I don't drive enough they were dried out and with radial cracking before they got half way through the tread. Unfortunately Megiaurs endurance seemed to do bugger all, obviously the compound makes more of a difference than the dressing! Thankfully banished and on GY AS5's now and it's transformed the car. If you're driving the car enough to get through rubber I suppose it's less of an issue. I'd say avoiding rubbish tyres would be the best protection of all! Saying that I use Gtechniq T1 now, I hope it's in his review!!
Very interesting subject! When I last had my tyres changed, my local ProTyre rep told me that they perished because of the tyre dressing I was using. I was told nothing about UV degradation. I was only using the AutoGlym Instant Tyre Dressing fortnightly, which is very apparently water-based. And the car and tyres were only 4 years old at the time.
its not uncommen for tyres to be perished after 4 years though. I can say I put some nexens on my golf 4 years ago and they did like 15k miles or something I have not really dressed the tyres more than say 4-5 times and they were perished. I dont think the dressings promote perishing. I would safe washing them prolly does but also high temps perhaps.
I'm 100% in agreement Jon... Tyres should be cleaned before dressing, no point dressing the road muck, but that's it... APC and a tyre brush, I go around the face of the tyre 2-3 times... Takes about 2 minutes max per tyre... Protecting tyre?! Utterly pointless... If you still have the same tyres on your car after 2 years you're not driving properly 🤣 tread should wear down long before the sidewalls start to crack!!
Nice Video, i just tyre brush dirty tyres with whatever i am washing the car with, then when dry i use 303 Aerospace Protectant sprayed on a rag, it's not full gloss or runny to fling off but a nice low sheen and no mess 💪😁🇦🇺
Good video. I've used tire dressings in the past, but not now. They seemed to attract more contaminates than repel. I just clean them with Opti Clean now.
i only do a "hard-strip" on my tires about 1 time per month or less. I only do this when they start to get brown and it doesnt come off in 1 go with a medium duty degreaser....then i break out my heavy degreasers to completely strip them of all dirt, and going in several times until the suds are white.
It works but in my opinion it still needs topping with a diluted water based dressing after a gentle clean with shampoo & a soft brush. If you don't the just dressed look doesn't last.
No, tires do not need protection. Tire dressing is purely cosmetic. I've worked in the automotive service industry for 10 years and tires will weather crack over time regardless of whether or not you dress them all the time
I'm not so sure, i have fitted my fair share of tyres and one thing that i noticed allot was the outer wall face was always harder than the inner wall face......... personally i think the heat/uv brings the antiozonant to the surface and then standard maintenance wash detergent removes it over time unlike the inside side wall, i'm sure the weather has an effect too but the inner side wall does get battered as well by bad road conditions / salt etc. Duno i'm no expert just my past experience............
side walls of tyres are the same thickness on each tyre, run flat tyres are a lot harder and thicker due to them been able to run flat. there is no difference on sidewall thickness inner or outer, just clearing that up
@@liamneale1831 If you are talking to me i know the difference between different types of tyres. I mean the actual rubber goes hard and starts to crack on older tyres because the antiozonant (which is there to stop the rubber drying out and cracking) is removed by constant washing with detergent on the outer side wall (why the outer becomes hard and cracks while the inner stays as the manufacture intended). Does that make it clearer?
8:46 ... I am. Before I swap tyres for the season, I give a layer of protection to both sides to keep them looking nice and less crap settling in the pores. I agree Jon, that tyre protection is silly to some extent. Many people advocate mineral spirits as prep. Which is nuts, but they use it cautiously - dab a bit on a rag and skim the surface. It's a choice. Wouldn't recommend it generally if you don't know what you're doing. It's definitely not healthy for the rubber. It's more of a sacrifice for looks.
I swear by Autosmart G101 - diluted. For normal lightly soiled tyres spray on, leave to dwell and wash off. If the tyre wall is heavily soiled then spray on and use a brush as suggested in the video to agitate and loosen the dirt, then wash off.
I use neat Surfex on my tyres (probably overkill) and they get one application of it, scrubbed with a Tuf shine tyre brush and then pressure washer to rinse off. Not a chance on earth I'm doing this whole 'keep reapplying APC and scrubbing until the foam turns white and then you know it's clean'. Bollocks to that! I used Gyeon Tire (blue one) for ages which was good, neat PERL is decent and at the moment I'm trying Alien Magic Slick.
So I agree with what you've said here, but I think where the use of solvents comes in is when people are cleaning the wheels due to brake dust. I generally will use an APC on my wheel and tire evey once in a while to remove brake dust and other stuff that gets on the wheel over time. Evey time I wash my car now though I've just been using a little car wash soap to clean both the wheel and tire because I've thought it's less aggressive. Some people only clean their wheels like once a year though so I think that's when chemicals like Acid and APC's come in to remove the brake dust.
Talking about Ozone on the tire. Is it applicable only for the side of the tire which we dressing? Or its top as well where all tire meat starts? As the side of tire looks as normal and the top have some cracks I talk about the part which always hits the road. I do use Autoglym Clean Wheels and Autoglym Magma to clean my wheels. Which might be the Solvents as mentioned in the video. It might be incredibly stupid point here but I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
magma will attack ferrous particles not the anti-ozonant. I dont really use FR's on tyres but I also dont worry too much if some hits the tyre. Autoglym stuff tends to be on the safe side so their wheel cleaner should be fine as long as it says its for tyres. I tend to notice the perishing does happen where the tyre wall meets the the contact face, on the corner. you can never keep a dressing on this bit either really it gets scrubbed off. so not sure.
@@ForensicDetailing Did not expect the reply thank you! I read around and I figure out that the Treads crack can cost weather change. As I do drive a lot it's probably nothing to do with Ozone as the side of tire it self is alright. Anyway thank you. NR1 Channel!
yes but Im just not sure if its going to give you any quantifiable benefits here in the UK at least. I supposed on water repellency as well you could argue it will help keep it clean.
Helpful video. I recently bought some Mothers wheel and tyre cleaner and thought it was doing a good job cleaning the tyres with how much brown stuff came out. I’ll go back to my usual stuff instead if that’s the case.
"Rags! Nothing Clever." haha priceless since i got into this detailing stuff, going on 2 years. I never could understand people using microfibers towels around wheel and arches. I cut up a few old shirts usually or a trashed microfiber.
you know what Jon tyres are round and they go on the ground they get dirty you are 100 % right any thing that could disturb the natural order of there job should be discouraged
the only time i would use hard core hydrocarbon or solvent type of degreaser to clean my tire is if it has severe tar buildup or the tire litterally is caked with a thick layer of grime from never ever being cleaned.
I think a detergent treatment, ozonin layer and then an inorganic polysilizane compound with other fillers to achieve other properties is a potential way to “protect” tires from premature wear and acting as a dirt repellent
remember its just the sidewall. the bit that wears is the bit on the ground (the tread) and image the forces and energy going through a tyre is each and everyday. Im just not sure putting forms of silicone on the sidewall really provide any benefit. If they did would the manufacturers not add these materials into the composition. Again its fair to say tyre manufacturers are on a different level compared to detailing product providers, in terms of size and scale and RandD budgets etc... what does your tyre maker say when you show them your product and ask them if this product will be beneficial to the performance of the tyre? Im agnostic in this regard Ive been using tyre dressings for decades. Ive not really seen any performance gains in terms of reducing tyre vulcanisation. I use them for looks really.
@@ForensicDetailing but to your point-that’s the reason we detail! There’s no point for a coating on a paint because clear coat can defend the base coat from salt and bird poop. What a detailing company and detailers do is make it pop. I agree, coatings simply don’t add to performance of the tire reguarding to wear and tear or the life of it. That’s why tire companies won’t add those coatings if they could work - simply cause it’s too expensive to put those on a tire that doesn’t add much benefit in the long term. However from a detailing perspective, a product that makes it maybe a little harder to oxidize, but mostly easy to clean and more black. Take a look at cera trim by TLC for example. They designed a silica based sealant for porous surfaces such as plastics and it gives it a deeper black and hydrophobics. That’s really what we as detailers are after isn’t it?
I use Koch Greenstar at 1:7 dilution and only do it every 2-4 months. It might be a bit strong, but i feel like it needs it after 3000 odd miles of all weather driving a day it's not like it's a weekly clean. Are you reviewing the GT tyre conditioner when it comes out, Jon? Marios talked about replenishing & conditioning the tyre, rather than just dressing the tyre with silica etc.
Wd40😉 just waiting for the comments. 100 and 1 hacks are bound to show it, after all it restores head light and removes scratch. 🤔 I just keep it simple, apc +good brush+ old tea towel works for me, top video again thanks for uploading.
Hello Jon I have got white lettering on the side walls of my tyres and they tend to go dark with the road grime brake etc any ideas what I can do to keep them looking bright Thanks 👍
Great minds think alike - I used TW Wet n Black for years then moved on to the Megs stuff too. Haven’t used either for years though. Looking forward to the GT offering as it appears to bring something slightly different to market.
Going past dealerships in my area, I see the forecourt valeters brushing thick dressing on to tyres every other day. Layer straight on top of layer. These tyres must be dirt sandwiches. In fact, the sidewalls have turned orangey-yellow on the cars that have sat for sale for months.
Just use apc,dry it and appeal a dressing. Tyre dressing is a cosmetic thing, personally I use Gyeon Tyre Express. It's a tad messy but leaves a lovely finish
I still don't know which products you do not recommend. Are you saying that APC (e.g. Super Clean) 100% is harmful? Does anyone use mineral spirits on tires? ! Doing so would be very expensive anyway. Does anyone regularly apply an APC/Degreaser to tires? I do this maybe twice or three times a year. Ugly browning takes a long time and serious tire use. For example, I didn't remember if I had degreased a set of stored tires, so I did it. Almost nothing brown came off. That answered my question.
theres about 10,000 APC water based degreased on the market. Your asking my which ones I "dont" recomend. Thats gonna be a difficult list to maintain going forward. Keep it simple use surfex HD. Am I saying APC is harmfull? Im not watching the video to see what I said. But theres cheap caustic chems used in lots of products because they can add "kick" or be can effective at low concentrations and are very cheap chems. Sodium Hydroxide is the main protagonist. Get the SDS for Raw Sodium Hydroxide and one of its intended uses/applications was in paint stripper. It can attack the binders in paint systems through continual longer term use. Same with strong phosphates etc.. Know your raw materials, check the SDS of your chems. surfex HD contains nothing like that it uses concentrated alcohol ethyoxolates which are less harmfull generally and not considered carconagenic (sp?). On top of this Surfex works out cheaper in its diluted concentrate form that any supermarket/hardware store generic degreaser which is already bulked down to a certain extent. If you dont pick Surfex HD. Check out Koch Chemie Greenstar. European chems have tighter regs than USA. Especially German chems. Does anyone use mineral spirits to prep tyres? Yes. But dont. Does anyone use APC/degreaser to clean tyres. Yes most of the planet does. The browing you see is not dirt. Its anti ozoneant which is like a conditioner use to keep the rubber compound moister and fresh.. when this material erodes from the tyre the tyre will start to dry out and persist. If you clean the tyre with a mineral spirit or even very caustic surfactants the theory is you can degrease the antiozoneant, thin it break it down and flush more out of the tyre. so just a watered down APC brush and a rag to dry it off is the best way to clean your tyre.. nothing clever nothing exppensive. By all means by a detail branded tyre cleaner but it will cost you like 10-15 buck for 500ml. I go through that in one day. surfex costs me about 17-30p a litre.
surfex can be used to clean upholstery mate, bilt hamber can advise on concentrations and usage. I would not use a foamer inside the car, just a trigger sprayer perhaps.
Diluted 25 parts water:1 part Surfex HD worked incredible on making my leather, roof lining and carpets look new again. Do it. It's great stuff. But no need for the foam sprayer, you need to see what you're using it on.
A tyre is a tyre..clean it with a brush during snowfoam...the slap on a bit of "shine" at the end of your process.. like you said all these degreaser things and special coatings are just more money making products being peddled. Next we will have wiper blade cleaning products and protection...lol
14:57 apologies for bit off the topic here - do you think pressure-washing of tyres is detrimental to tyres? one tyre reviewer claims so - apparently too close can damage tyre-wall? watch?v=NwlNsNPhH_0&t=50s
off the top of my head I would say you could probably damage the surface of the tyre wall if you got really close, would depend on the pressure washer but I would guess it was possible to damage the surface? but you would really have to go out of your way to like even create a small chance of this.
I've just bought surfed hd, but I'm tempted to pull the trigger on autoglanz rebound tyre cleaner, is this a solvent? Should I avoid and stick with surfed hd?
For me, the browning or antiozonant isn't the problem at all. I'll just dress right over it. The problem I seem to be running into is my newer customers using the car washes, and having there tires "coated" or some kind of oil based dressing is used. Over time, many layers of this stuff is on the tire, and I haven't found any kind of degreaser or APC that can remove it. Not even close. Any type of water based cleaner is just repelled off, as it's designed to do so. I'm seeing this more and more as the months go by, last week, almost every car I did, I need to strip the tires with a solvent to get it off. If it has a car wash sticker on the windshield, you can almost be certain the tires are caked on with old oil based dressings. I honestly don't see a problem with using solvents on tires just as long as you're not doing it often. Once in awhile shouldn't cause any harm, but I don't know of any test that has shown proof of damage to the tire. If I new of a better way, I'd do it.
Ive just been testings over the top of the brown anitiozonant stains. Some can cope with it no problem. Others when they dry dont do so well and benefit from it not being there if you want a good finish. yes its important to say your tyre is not going to blow up and insta melt if you wipe down with a solvent. I just dont personally think you should be doing it. I know exactly what you are talking about as well, the black like grease film on the tyre for rubbish products. Funny enough though surfex HD water based degrease does have a good go at smacking this down and the rag can get the rest off. but yer quick wash and then a good dressing should be able to make a tyre look good. Thanks for you comment you make good points.
Thanks for this video, very eye opening and interesting on tyre wall cleaning. Makes sense on not using solvents to clean the tyre walls. Great info mate.👍👏👌
Brilliant vid. I also dont understand the whole ' protection ' thing. It's just a tyre. Sure make it look nice but as said you're only protecting the tyre wall, so seems daft to me. And what exactly are you protecting it from. It's not like it's clear coat or glass.
What do you think is more durable Gyeon Tyre or CarPro Pearl? Im running out of Gyeon i like how it makes the tyres look, how long it lasts and the application isnt hard either. What would YOU suggest out of the two? Would appreciate your answer. Keep in mind i only get to wash my car once a month or so.
I think the aspect of tyre "protection" is a little misused by the marketeers. I would go as far and say that the "protection" aspect should be in the sense that, it should be able to form a "seal" on the surface to be able to resist road grime, fallout and other chemical contamination in order to make it easier to keep clean and NOT brown off and give it a decent appearance. That's what a tyre protectant should be.
UV protection is a real benefit. May be not so much in the UK bit places like Australia or Spain, tyre sidewall degradation from UV damage is real and can happen quickly in a matter of years, turns the side walls hard and crazes, its a common ‘MOT’ failure and blow outs and slow ‘punctures’ are common from the damage.
Not an advocate for mega tyre cleaning/ dressing but the outer edge of the tyre is the main/almost only area that is exposed to UV constantly. Working within the oil and gas industry we know that the biggest killer of rubbers are UV so can understand the protection element. The outer edge will be the first area of any tire to perish/crack over time
carpro perl is really cost effective because its a concentrate and you can knock it down 3to1 with water.. spray it into a big hoggs hair brush work it in and wipe off excess. It can dry a bit patchy though.. but its what I tend to recomend. but heres a little tip. Get some Sonax Extreme Tyre Gel. thank me later :)
I prolly wont get another one adam. they are wicked cars but Im more a coupe guy 240i maybe one day but I think older cars better something without an electric rack.
Find a used ture or more and make a long time test. Wash the tire, dress it and see how it's going over time. I have seen a lot of dressing turns the tire brown. Over time and that looks like shit. I like the tires to be mattblack. I think there is maybe a layer of protektion for storing tyres so they don't crack. But on the other hand it's always a good idea to have fresh tyres so if they are cracking after 2-3sesons then it's time to change enyway The tyre gets most sun on the outside sidewall so it makes sens to protect them Amit. Rubber don't like sun. Linking forward to see the tyre produkt shout-out
Fantastic video again Jon. Keep being controversial, nobody will challenge you when you are proclaiming the truth, need a bit in the detailing industry! keep it up.
I used to work for 1 of the biggest tyre manufacturers in the world, Michelin. We used petroleum solvent to stick the rubber together and also to break it apart
Triggers voice: ‘so what you sayin then?’
Yes you did but that was the uncured or before vulcanising stage of the process. The important point about the antioxidants in the sidewall is that they migrate to the surface of the vulcanised product throughout the tyres life in order to protect the tyre from UV degradation. If you use a solvent on the tyre sidewall then it will wash off the antioxidant and more will then migrate to the surface to replace it. Eventually if you are a frequent user of solvents or indeed if you kerb your car often enough all the antioxidants will have been used up and the sidewalls will suffer UV degradation.
Where would we be without your channel Jon? Just by looking down the comments and looking at the likes/dislikes its clear you have encouraged discussion and that can only be good for the detailing world. I think a lot of people just follow the crowd without giving a lot of thought to the detail & nervous about challenging what the "experts" say. Well done mate, as always love your videos👍
I billion percent agree ! I just use soapy water for my tyre clean and and car pro perl for my tyre dressing great stuff and fairly easy to clean 😎
I agree. I'm mostly interested in making my expensive tyres last longer, i.e. reducing the effects of rubber cracking and perishing. From what I understand age and UV play a part in that so I sort of understand the UV protection part and the fact that the contact patch and inside sidewall aren't exposed to much UV at all. Sometimes I put a bit of CarPro Perl on, but only when the tyres get old, when they're new I don't think they need anything other than a good clean.
I do understand what you are getting at Jon having worked as a chemist, but as you know the antiozonants is part of the average tyre makeup, but when it reaches the air on the surface of the tyre you get the actual browning or gassing. Using solvents sold to the general public in car cleaning are not strong enough to damage the makeup of the tyre. All tyres have a shelf life of about 6 years and have to be swapped at 10 years without fail. Those same hydrocarbon solvents vs halo or oxygen is the solvent of choice due to mass production and not specifically harmful to the environment. But you could use a solvent based cleaner once a month and apply a dressing on you tyre for the lifespan of that tyre so 6-10 years and the tyre would not fail due to you using a solvent. It would fail from no more tread or old age far before a hydrocarbon solvent could actually effect a tyre properly. This has to do with the length the solvent is allowed to work before rinsing. Sure a strong hydrocarbon solvent like a commercial drain cleaning solvent with a ph close to ph14, yeah that would break down the organic rubber on the tyre if left submerged in a vat. Yes, btw to your question in the video, you could clean you rubber with a ph neutral soap, and a stiff brush, apply a tyre dressing and that’s just as good.
yer its important to say its not like your tyres will expload if you clean them with mineral spirit or IPA and water. But I think a hydrocarbon adhesive remover product will degrade rubber reasonably well.. In fact we have people here commenting that have worked in tyre manufacturing confirming this. So its probably more a case of best practise.
Sled Supreme interesting. Why is it modern tyres only last a few years - as you say they go hard and crack- but I have some classic cars with tyres made in the early 1960s so we’ll over 50 years old and the rubber is still fine, no cracking and they still grip, we’re they just made with more natural rubber back then?
Yes, Jon I agree with you it does have to do with duration, chemical strength, and technique. Yes I know no one would actually try to kill their tyre with chemicals for fun. Okay so UKDavid to answer your question there is different types of synthetic rubbers. They all degrade and gas at different rates, fun fact this was mainly discovered due to the fact that in them1940’s natural rubber became expensive. So yes you are correct there are older tyres that can absolutely last longer. Due to how we look at tyres today for, fuel consumption/rolling resistance and alter the ratios for specific climate and temperature, they are safer and have far more added components that end up hurting their half life for lack of a better term. Sorry for the late response
@@sledsupreme287 Thanks, that makes perfect sense, thinking of modern tyres I've bought in recent years it is the ones that perform best - especially noise and wet grip - that seem to degrade a bit more quickly, but if the additives means they only last 6 years before obvious cracking rather than 12 years is a worthwhile trade-off for that performance. And I guess that also explains why they get noisier as they get older. Wish more people would take notice of tyres, so many driving round in cars which could be so much better and safer with new tyres.
Whenever the discussion of using solvents on tires comes up I'm always remind people how many solvents and hydrocarbons flow through rubber lines. Like gas and fuel lines.
As usual getting straight to the point Jon,debunking another 'detailing' myth. Bring on the test.
As usual a no nonsense to the point factual video!!! Appreciate this information John. Cheers
It’s mind blowing this isn’t more understood and expressed in this industry. Simply when you spend 700-1,200$ for a set of new tires you’d think this simple KEY piece of information education would be shared.
It’s Basic.
It’s so so basic and yet not at all shared leading to understandable harmful destructive “cleaning” practices and unnecessary product purchases, including new tires with much shorter lifespans. All in the name of trying to rid that “brown stuff” washing the tire over and over and over wondering where could all this “dirt” (inherent tire protectant) be coming from.
This industry feeds off ignorance. When something so incredibly basic to understand could prevent a lot of wasted time and money is not being shared frequently and openly.
Thank you for your thorough and thoughtful walkthrough.
I agree. I’ll typically use Surfex at 1/10, but I have as a one off used a tar remover and a microfiber towel to scrub clean.
It would be interesting to do a real life test on an old tyre to see if it draws the moisture out or fades/cracks the tyre.
Just to add to the discussion... Tyres do degrade and crack over time. My 2015 mk7 golf failed it’s mot due to cracked tyres that were 5 years old. Car is left outside, not garaged. So I always look for tyre dressing with uv protection. Great video with some Great points. Keep it up. 👍🏻
Jon, I never knew the brown stuff was part of the tyre composition. You learn something new everyday... You haven't disappointed lol. For me, solvents are a huge no no on rubber. GT Therapy Wheel Shampoo and some Zero Decon for a tyre scrub, then Carpro Perl neat for dressing. Perfect combo. Can't see why anyone would decide to use a solvent on rubber! Daft as.....
As someone who is starting out in detailing. Your videos have been incredibly educational. This particular video does go against a few of the videos I've seen about solvents on Tyres. It's not something I thought about in any great depth, but as you've talked about the reasons against solvents on Tyres, it makes absolutely perfect sense why it's a bad idea to use solvents.
I use surfex hd for cleaning tyres if I want to add tyre dressing to the previously applied tyre dressing. But for stripping back all the old tyre dressing off valet pro bilberry at 1:10 works best for me. Using solvents is a no go for me, bilberry does the trick. 👍🏼🙂
I have to agree with your most interesting explanation Jon.
I use an NA alloy wheel cleaner for my alloys and nothing to clean the tyres because I have a commercial hot pressure cleaner which cleans the tyres without the need for any scrubbing. However, I do confess to using a solvent based tyre dressing for the main purpose of aesthetics and the manufacturers claims of longevity and UV protection. The one I use and have used for years is Meguairs ’Endurance’ which is highly viscous and difficult to apply sparingly. To get around this problem I ‘dilute’ the ‘Endurance’ with another Meguairs tyre dressing product called ‘Hot Wheels’ which has a viscosity a lot thinner than ‘Endurance’. With both products mixed together the final product becomes a lot more user friendly and cost effective. The overall appearance is better controlled too.
I do believe there is some benefits to dressing tyres regardless of them being water or solvent based. Besides the obvious aesthetics, dressings would be absorbed into the tyre as the tyre rubber structure is porous. I’m not sure there are any UV benefits as it is impossible to quantify.
I have used water based dressings which I do not consider them durable enough.
Im talking more about cleaning with solvents. But I guess solvent based dressings and water based dressings is relevent to this.
Do you find megs endurence never actually dries.. like ever?
@@ForensicDetailing Jon my bad🤦🏻♂️.....I didn’t realise people cleaned their tyres with solvents?!😳
On the subject of Meguairs ‘Endurance’ in its pure form it is like Golden Syrup, hence the reason I ‘dilute’ it with Meguairs ‘Hot Wheels’. The resultant product is easier to apply and the end results are one of a very good aesthetic appearance coupled with very good durability.
If applied thinly and left for a while to absorb into the tyre and dry, followed by a final wipe over the attraction of road grime is negligible......give it a try😉
I will say that because my Meguairs concoction is durable, if attempts to remove it using soapy water at the next car wash, it will ‘de foam’ the ‘soapy’ water, an occurrence that I no longer have to worry about using a hot commercial pressure washer.
I've seen some videos where ppl are using tar removers before adding protection..... i was wondering if that hurt the tire. Thanks for Clarifying!
Yes, I never used solvent based solutions because I remembered that being discussed in my 2 chemistry classes at school when I was in high school from 1983 and 1984. What we had available then was Armor all and used Turtle Wax too.
IMHO having fitted allot of tyres in my time you always find the side wall that faces out goes hard, now i don't know if it's UV or just the only part of the tyre that gets regular exposure to detergent / alloy wheel cleaner but some thing makes the outward facing side wall go hard over time. My personal opinion is that UV/Heat draws the antiozonant to the surface and then wash it off with detergent because the brown looks unsightly...... I currently put Optimum tyre protect on my tyres as a sealer, it lasts about a month before it wants redoing and the thumb nail test tells me that the inner and outer side walls are still about the same softness (there doesn't appear to be any cracks starting to show in the side wall)......i don't get brown marks and i just give them a quick once over with some wash and wax to get them clean (they never look glossy but dirt doesn't stick to them, take into account they haven't seen a winter with this product on yet).
I've been using Meguiar's for years but am now questioning whether I should continue with it. We'll see. No-one wants a nice shiny car and grubby tyres but not at the expense of breaking down the components in the tyre itself. As always, food for thought. Look forward to your opinions on the different dressings on the market.
Would love to see a dressing review. Just bought Gyeon Q2 to see if that's any good
I am amazed at people talking about brown stuff on tyres, I have never seen it on any of my tyres which in general are within 3 years old and that is determined by my milage. It is rare to get much more than 30K miles out of the driving wheels and if you are lucky perhaps another 10K out of the non driving wheels. That is going to be well within the 10 year lifespan of a reputable make of tyre. Where I am aware of brown staining is on cheap whitewall tyres where the white rubber becomes contaminated by amines that migrate from the main body and rubber compounds of the black tyre. Quality tyre makers isolate the white wall with a non staining barrier from the rest of the tyre. I can only surmise that the brown stuff is from rubber compounds that have begun to breakdown for various reasons such as use of solvents. Some interesting comments below about tyres going hard, it may interest people that a new tyre is not 100% vulcanised, it is the vulcanising that gives the rubber compounds their stiffness so as a true ages the vulcanising process continues and the tyre will become hard this can be accelerated by excessive heat generation caused by heavy breaking, under inflation etc.
In short wash your tyres with detergent nothing else avoid solvents and paints the tyre formulation didn't expect them to be used.
Yes I did work in the tyre industry.
Good video Jon. Auto finesse specifically recommend their tar remover as a tyre cleaner, always found that a bit OTT!
autofinesse survive on marketing alone, they barely got any decent products sadly.
Not going to lie I use tar remover to clean my tyres works brilliant dissolves old tyre dressing like it's nottin clean then again for fresh tyre dressing product
I have a 2007 gmc pickup with original tires ( yes I know tires are only rated for 5 years) and 57000 kms. This truck has always been stored inside. For the last 13 years I have cleaned the tires a couple of times per year with a 1:1 spraynine mixer prior to dressing the tire. At present I have seen no cracking or degradation of the tire where the spraynine has been used.
I also think most people will only own a tire for approximately 2 years before it needs replacement so from my experience I am ok using spraynine on a tire for cleaning a few times per year.
Good video . You just want a tyre to look clean along with the rest.of the car. Some people are taking this detailing to a different level! Way to many products out there that mainly do the same thing. Ive gone with Bilthamber for cleaning power and Meguairs for correction and polishing. Keeping it simple
Smashing insight regarding tyres, yet another interesting discussion. I will definitely look at how I address finishing my tyres when purchasing future products.
Only used to clean the tyre with car shampoo at end of top to bottom wash. When applying old solvent Autoglym dressing always wondered why rags were so filthy. You don't use solvents to clean your hands as it strips natural oils same with rubber. Now do it your way and been converted to Carpro perl at 2/1 getting better performance and finish than ever before. Do get starred at scrubbing tyres though by neighbours.
UV and temperature is definitely a factor in tire lifetime. Lived in middle east before and tire life was around 3 years. Tires start to crack.
3 years?! My tread is long worn down before I get anywhere near those issues... Or timescales!
@@SparkleanAutos for sure on your daily driver but not necessarily on your weekend whip. What I'm trying to say is that the heat and UV kills the rubber.
@@Slipperywrench I live in Northern Ireland mate... The only UV we get is from a fish tank 🤣🤣
I also live in Ireland. If you don't drive every day they can crack through UV. I got a car with quite meh Nexen N8000 tyres, as I don't drive enough they were dried out and with radial cracking before they got half way through the tread. Unfortunately Megiaurs endurance seemed to do bugger all, obviously the compound makes more of a difference than the dressing! Thankfully banished and on GY AS5's now and it's transformed the car. If you're driving the car enough to get through rubber I suppose it's less of an issue. I'd say avoiding rubbish tyres would be the best protection of all! Saying that I use Gtechniq T1 now, I hope it's in his review!!
Very interesting subject! When I last had my tyres changed, my local ProTyre rep told me that they perished because of the tyre dressing I was using. I was told nothing about UV degradation. I was only using the AutoGlym Instant Tyre Dressing fortnightly, which is very apparently water-based. And the car and tyres were only 4 years old at the time.
its not uncommen for tyres to be perished after 4 years though. I can say I put some nexens on my golf 4 years ago and they did like 15k miles or something I have not really dressed the tyres more than say 4-5 times and they were perished. I dont think the dressings promote perishing. I would safe washing them prolly does but also high temps perhaps.
Surfex HD + Carpro Perl. Job done.
I'm 100% in agreement Jon... Tyres should be cleaned before dressing, no point dressing the road muck, but that's it... APC and a tyre brush, I go around the face of the tyre 2-3 times... Takes about 2 minutes max per tyre...
Protecting tyre?! Utterly pointless... If you still have the same tyres on your car after 2 years you're not driving properly 🤣 tread should wear down long before the sidewalls start to crack!!
Nice Video, i just tyre brush dirty tyres with whatever i am washing the car with, then when dry i use 303 Aerospace Protectant sprayed on a rag, it's not full gloss or runny to fling off but a nice low sheen and no mess 💪😁🇦🇺
‘AutoGlanz Rebound’ is my favourite product for cleaning tyres. It’s simply amazing stuff👌🏻
‘Stjarnagloss GUMMI’ is a lovely, waterbased dressing too
Good video. I've used tire dressings in the past, but not now. They seemed to attract more contaminates than repel. I just clean them with Opti Clean now.
i only do a "hard-strip" on my tires about 1 time per month or less. I only do this when they start to get brown and it doesnt come off in 1 go with a medium duty degreaser....then i break out my heavy degreasers to completely strip them of all dirt, and going in several times until the suds are white.
There's a separate category of products that create a proper glossy flexible layer on top of the rubber. Like Optimum coating.
It works but in my opinion it still needs topping with a diluted water based dressing after a gentle clean with shampoo & a soft brush. If you don't the just dressed look doesn't last.
No, tires do not need protection. Tire dressing is purely cosmetic. I've worked in the automotive service industry for 10 years and tires will weather crack over time regardless of whether or not you dress them all the time
Agree 100% 👍
I'm not so sure, i have fitted my fair share of tyres and one thing that i noticed allot was the outer wall face was always harder than the inner wall face......... personally i think the heat/uv brings the antiozonant to the surface and then standard maintenance wash detergent removes it over time unlike the inside side wall, i'm sure the weather has an effect too but the inner side wall does get battered as well by bad road conditions / salt etc. Duno i'm no expert just my past experience............
side walls of tyres are the same thickness on each tyre, run flat tyres are a lot harder and thicker due to them been able to run flat. there is no difference on sidewall thickness inner or outer, just clearing that up
@@liamneale1831 If you are talking to me i know the difference between different types of tyres. I mean the actual rubber goes hard and starts to crack on older tyres because the antiozonant (which is there to stop the rubber drying out and cracking) is removed by constant washing with detergent on the outer side wall (why the outer becomes hard and cracks while the inner stays as the manufacture intended). Does that make it clearer?
@@K2edg yeah sorry i thought u was talking about the actually sidewall.. my bad 🤦♂️ 👍🏼
8:46 ... I am. Before I swap tyres for the season, I give a layer of protection to both sides to keep them looking nice and less crap settling in the pores. I agree Jon, that tyre protection is silly to some extent. Many people advocate mineral spirits as prep. Which is nuts, but they use it cautiously - dab a bit on a rag and skim the surface. It's a choice. Wouldn't recommend it generally if you don't know what you're doing. It's definitely not healthy for the rubber. It's more of a sacrifice for looks.
I swear by Autosmart G101 - diluted. For normal lightly soiled tyres spray on, leave to dwell and wash off. If the tyre wall is heavily soiled then spray on and use a brush as suggested in the video to agitate and loosen the dirt, then wash off.
Jon just a top tip, if you pressure wash your "relegated"/tire rags it makes them like new! -it just strips the grease right out lol
I try this soon dave cheers mate
I use neat Surfex on my tyres (probably overkill) and they get one application of it, scrubbed with a Tuf shine tyre brush and then pressure washer to rinse off. Not a chance on earth I'm doing this whole 'keep reapplying APC and scrubbing until the foam turns white and then you know it's clean'. Bollocks to that! I used Gyeon Tire (blue one) for ages which was good, neat PERL is decent and at the moment I'm trying Alien Magic Slick.
So I agree with what you've said here, but I think where the use of solvents comes in is when people are cleaning the wheels due to brake dust. I generally will use an APC on my wheel and tire evey once in a while to remove brake dust and other stuff that gets on the wheel over time. Evey time I wash my car now though I've just been using a little car wash soap to clean both the wheel and tire because I've thought it's less aggressive. Some people only clean their wheels like once a year though so I think that's when chemicals like Acid and APC's come in to remove the brake dust.
Talking about Ozone on the tire. Is it applicable only for the side of the tire which we dressing? Or its top as well where all tire meat starts? As the side of tire looks as normal and the top have some cracks I talk about the part which always hits the road. I do use Autoglym Clean Wheels and Autoglym Magma to clean my wheels. Which might be the Solvents as mentioned in the video. It might be incredibly stupid point here but I'm trying to learn as much as I can.
magma will attack ferrous particles not the anti-ozonant. I dont really use FR's on tyres but I also dont worry too much if some hits the tyre. Autoglym stuff tends to be on the safe side so their wheel cleaner should be fine as long as it says its for tyres. I tend to notice the perishing does happen where the tyre wall meets the the contact face, on the corner. you can never keep a dressing on this bit either really it gets scrubbed off. so not sure.
@@ForensicDetailing Did not expect the reply thank you! I read around and I figure out that the Treads crack can cost weather change. As I do drive a lot it's probably nothing to do with Ozone as the side of tire it self is alright. Anyway thank you. NR1 Channel!
Is the tyre dressing protecting from uv light on the sidewall because that's the only bit of tyre that gets any sunlight,
yes but Im just not sure if its going to give you any quantifiable benefits here in the UK at least. I supposed on water repellency as well you could argue it will help keep it clean.
@@ForensicDetailing yes probably, appreciate your videos, most in depth detailing channel i know 👍
I enjoy your videos. They are always informative. I use Surfex HD on tyres and am very happy with the results.
I wouldn’t recommend getting strong solvents anywhere near any plastic or rubber components, not just tyres
I've been mixing surfex hd with a bit of autofoam for my wheels and tyres works brilliant in the kwazar foamer
Helpful video. I recently bought some Mothers wheel and tyre cleaner and thought it was doing a good job cleaning the tyres with how much brown stuff came out. I’ll go back to my usual stuff instead if that’s the case.
Brilliantly presented. Another great video. Thanks
"Rags! Nothing Clever." haha priceless since i got into this detailing stuff, going on 2 years. I never could understand people using microfibers towels around wheel and arches. I cut up a few old shirts usually or a trashed microfiber.
I just use furniture polish (great semi gloss finish, no fling and cheap as chips) after the tyres are clean.
Are you serious?
@@grandautodetailingtvm totally
That might be contain oil and perhaps even some solvents.
@@Aerouu , it does but probably pretty diluted
you know what Jon tyres are round and they go on the ground they get dirty you are 100 % right any thing that could disturb the natural order of there job should be discouraged
the only time i would use hard core hydrocarbon or solvent type of degreaser to clean my tire is if it has severe tar buildup or the tire litterally is caked with a thick layer of grime from never ever being cleaned.
wtf dave ;)
I think a detergent treatment, ozonin layer and then an inorganic polysilizane compound with other fillers to achieve other properties is a potential way to “protect” tires from premature wear and acting as a dirt repellent
remember its just the sidewall. the bit that wears is the bit on the ground (the tread) and image the forces and energy going through a tyre is each and everyday. Im just not sure putting forms of silicone on the sidewall really provide any benefit. If they did would the manufacturers not add these materials into the composition. Again its fair to say tyre manufacturers are on a different level compared to detailing product providers, in terms of size and scale and RandD budgets etc... what does your tyre maker say when you show them your product and ask them if this product will be beneficial to the performance of the tyre? Im agnostic in this regard Ive been using tyre dressings for decades. Ive not really seen any performance gains in terms of reducing tyre vulcanisation. I use them for looks really.
@@ForensicDetailing but to your point-that’s the reason we detail! There’s no point for a coating on a paint because clear coat can defend the base coat from salt and bird poop. What a detailing company and detailers do is make it pop. I agree, coatings simply don’t add to performance of the tire reguarding to wear and tear or the life of it. That’s why tire companies won’t add those coatings if they could work - simply cause it’s too expensive to put those on a tire that doesn’t add much benefit in the long term. However from a detailing perspective, a product that makes it maybe a little harder to oxidize, but mostly easy to clean and more black.
Take a look at cera trim by TLC for example. They designed a silica based sealant for porous surfaces such as plastics and it gives it a deeper black and hydrophobics. That’s really what we as detailers are after isn’t it?
A bit of Carpro Perl works wonders
I use Koch Greenstar at 1:7 dilution and only do it every 2-4 months. It might be a bit strong, but i feel like it needs it after 3000 odd miles of all weather driving a day it's not like it's a weekly clean.
Are you reviewing the GT tyre conditioner when it comes out, Jon? Marios talked about replenishing & conditioning the tyre, rather than just dressing the tyre with silica etc.
I like your weapon of choice Stu :) I will defo get my hands on the GT conditioner.
Good chat again. Thanks Jon. Look forward to the next one. 👍
John hoping you can help me out, I’m not getting good results with 10% ratio on surfax hd for my tires, any suggestions? Up the ratio?
I use t1 tyre&trim from gtechniq. Bit expensive but I find it brilliant stuff. Great for your trim as well and lasts for ages.
Wd40😉 just waiting for the comments. 100 and 1 hacks are bound to show it, after all it restores head light and removes scratch. 🤔
I just keep it simple, apc +good brush+ old tea towel works for me, top video again thanks for uploading.
Jon you are simply amazing. The time you spend to make videos for us makes feel guilty. But I love them so keep them coming 😍☺️
Hello Jon
I have got white lettering on the side walls of my tyres and they tend to go dark with the road grime brake etc any ideas what I can do to keep them looking bright
Thanks 👍
Great minds think alike - I used TW Wet n Black for years then moved on to the Megs stuff too. Haven’t used either for years though. Looking forward to the GT offering as it appears to bring something slightly different to market.
I remember being like really impressed with megs endurence initially but nowadays I think there are better.
Going past dealerships in my area, I see the forecourt valeters brushing thick dressing on to tyres every other day. Layer straight on top of layer. These tyres must be dirt sandwiches. In fact, the sidewalls have turned orangey-yellow on the cars that have sat for sale for months.
Another great informative video. Funny you should mention the inside tyre walls. I dress them whenever the wheels are off helps prevent cracking.
First time ive heard this ! Its as he said your just dressing it to look good . When tyres crack they are normally years old and need changing!
@@daveharris4755 yes but some tyre dressings contain conditioners that help maintain tyre walls.
@@stephenwilson2793 ok
Just use apc,dry it and appeal a dressing. Tyre dressing is a cosmetic thing, personally I use Gyeon Tyre Express. It's a tad messy but leaves a lovely finish
I still don't know which products you do not recommend. Are you saying that APC (e.g. Super Clean) 100% is harmful?
Does anyone use mineral spirits on tires? ! Doing so would be very expensive anyway.
Does anyone regularly apply an APC/Degreaser to tires? I do this maybe twice or three times a year. Ugly browning takes a long time and serious tire use. For example, I didn't remember if I had degreased a set of stored tires, so I did it. Almost nothing brown came off. That answered my question.
theres about 10,000 APC water based degreased on the market. Your asking my which ones I "dont" recomend. Thats gonna be a difficult list to maintain going forward. Keep it simple use surfex HD.
Am I saying APC is harmfull? Im not watching the video to see what I said. But theres cheap caustic chems used in lots of products because they can add "kick" or be can effective at low concentrations and are very cheap chems. Sodium Hydroxide is the main protagonist. Get the SDS for Raw Sodium Hydroxide and one of its intended uses/applications was in paint stripper. It can attack the binders in paint systems through continual longer term use. Same with strong phosphates etc.. Know your raw materials, check the SDS of your chems. surfex HD contains nothing like that it uses concentrated alcohol ethyoxolates which are less harmfull generally and not considered carconagenic (sp?). On top of this Surfex works out cheaper in its diluted concentrate form that any supermarket/hardware store generic degreaser which is already bulked down to a certain extent.
If you dont pick Surfex HD. Check out Koch Chemie Greenstar. European chems have tighter regs than USA. Especially German chems.
Does anyone use mineral spirits to prep tyres? Yes. But dont.
Does anyone use APC/degreaser to clean tyres. Yes most of the planet does. The browing you see is not dirt. Its anti ozoneant which is like a conditioner use to keep the rubber compound moister and fresh.. when this material erodes from the tyre the tyre will start to dry out and persist. If you clean the tyre with a mineral spirit or even very caustic surfactants the theory is you can degrease the antiozoneant, thin it break it down and flush more out of the tyre. so just a watered down APC brush and a rag to dry it off is the best way to clean your tyre.. nothing clever nothing exppensive. By all means by a detail branded tyre cleaner but it will cost you like 10-15 buck for 500ml. I go through that in one day. surfex costs me about 17-30p a litre.
Hey Jon! Just wondered if you ever use BH on upholstery? Was thinking of using it the IK foamer for my seats
surfex can be used to clean upholstery mate, bilt hamber can advise on concentrations and usage. I would not use a foamer inside the car, just a trigger sprayer perhaps.
Diluted 25 parts water:1 part Surfex HD worked incredible on making my leather, roof lining and carpets look new again. Do it. It's great stuff. But no need for the foam sprayer, you need to see what you're using it on.
I use the same detergent that I wash the paint and wheels with. Never use found a “dressing” that I liked so I don’t use any. Never had any issues.
Surfex hd the best! Greetings from Chile
A tyre is a tyre..clean it with a brush during snowfoam...the slap on a bit of "shine" at the end of your process.. like you said all these degreaser things and special coatings are just more money making products being peddled. Next we will have wiper blade cleaning products and protection...lol
There is wiper blade protection already 😂
@@jamest5149 Jesus....
14:57 apologies for bit off the topic here - do you think pressure-washing of tyres is detrimental to tyres?
one tyre reviewer claims so - apparently too close can damage tyre-wall? watch?v=NwlNsNPhH_0&t=50s
off the top of my head I would say you could probably damage the surface of the tyre wall if you got really close, would depend on the pressure washer but I would guess it was possible to damage the surface? but you would really have to go out of your way to like even create a small chance of this.
I've just bought surfed hd, but I'm tempted to pull the trigger on autoglanz rebound tyre cleaner, is this a solvent? Should I avoid and stick with surfed hd?
rebound is great, theres no universal right here. lots use this product. I am a minimalist I use surfex because its cheap and effective.
For me, the browning or antiozonant isn't the problem at all. I'll just dress right over it. The problem I seem to be running into is my newer customers using the car washes, and having there tires "coated" or some kind of oil based dressing is used. Over time, many layers of this stuff is on the tire, and I haven't found any kind of degreaser or APC that can remove it. Not even close. Any type of water based cleaner is just repelled off, as it's designed to do so. I'm seeing this more and more as the months go by, last week, almost every car I did, I need to strip the tires with a solvent to get it off. If it has a car wash sticker on the windshield, you can almost be certain the tires are caked on with old oil based dressings. I honestly don't see a problem with using solvents on tires just as long as you're not doing it often. Once in awhile shouldn't cause any harm, but I don't know of any test that has shown proof of damage to the tire. If I new of a better way, I'd do it.
Ive just been testings over the top of the brown anitiozonant stains. Some can cope with it no problem. Others when they dry dont do so well and benefit from it not being there if you want a good finish.
yes its important to say your tyre is not going to blow up and insta melt if you wipe down with a solvent. I just dont personally think you should be doing it.
I know exactly what you are talking about as well, the black like grease film on the tyre for rubbish products. Funny enough though surfex HD water based degrease does have a good go at smacking this down and the rag can get the rest off.
but yer quick wash and then a good dressing should be able to make a tyre look good. Thanks for you comment you make good points.
@@ForensicDetailing I''l have to get my grubby paws on some of that Surfex HD...Thank you Jon!
Thanks for this video, very eye opening and interesting on tyre wall cleaning. Makes sense on not using solvents to clean the tyre walls. Great info mate.👍👏👌
Brilliant vid. I also dont understand the whole ' protection ' thing. It's just a tyre. Sure make it look nice but as said you're only protecting the tyre wall, so seems daft to me. And what exactly are you protecting it from. It's not like it's clear coat or glass.
What do you think is more durable Gyeon Tyre or CarPro Pearl? Im running out of Gyeon i like how it makes the tyres look, how long it lasts and the application isnt hard either. What would YOU suggest out of the two? Would appreciate your answer. Keep in mind i only get to wash my car once a month or so.
I would guess gyeon tyre. I have both of them in my test coming soon.
I think the aspect of tyre "protection" is a little misused by the marketeers. I would go as far and say that the "protection" aspect should be in the sense that, it should be able to form a "seal" on the surface to be able to resist road grime, fallout and other chemical contamination in order to make it easier to keep clean and NOT brown off and give it a decent appearance.
That's what a tyre protectant should be.
I use water based degreasers like Bilt Hamber Surfex HD and other water based degreasers.
UV protection is a real benefit. May be not so much in the UK bit places like Australia or Spain, tyre sidewall degradation from UV damage is real and can happen quickly in a matter of years, turns the side walls hard and crazes, its a common ‘MOT’ failure and blow outs and slow ‘punctures’ are common from the damage.
Not an advocate for mega tyre cleaning/ dressing but the outer edge of the tyre is the main/almost only area that is exposed to UV constantly. Working within the oil and gas industry we know that the biggest killer of rubbers are UV so can understand the protection element. The outer edge will be the first area of any tire to perish/crack over time
i use surfex in a autoglym custom wheel cleaner kit brush. works brilliantly
What coloure tip do you find the best for the ik foamer
i use orange aaron
@@ForensicDetailing thanks pal just got mine this morning
Hi mate. What cost effective tyre dressing do you recommend?
carpro perl is really cost effective because its a concentrate and you can knock it down 3to1 with water.. spray it into a big hoggs hair brush work it in and wipe off excess. It can dry a bit patchy though.. but its what I tend to recomend. but heres a little tip. Get some Sonax Extreme Tyre Gel. thank me later :)
@@ForensicDetailing awesome. Amazing how versatile the carpro perl it! Cheers
When are you going to get another 140i
I prolly wont get another one adam. they are wicked cars but Im more a coupe guy 240i maybe one day but I think older cars better something without an electric rack.
@@ForensicDetailing that’s a shame I miss your vids on the 140i , older cars are cool though , 240i sounds good too 👍
I always just thought the browning was dirt? Auto glanz rubber cleaner is my go too
Nope, it is tire bloom
Classic forensic detailing, love ya dad 😘
Would an old pair of undies ever be relegated to rag status?
Just use Surfex HD diluted at 10% applied with a foam pump, rinse or wipe it, 303 protectant twice a month, call it good.
Good nail brush and APC, looks as good without dressing
Great informative video. Thanks Jon
Surfex hd to clean and Autoglym tyre gel for me .
Love this content!!!
Very nice informative video as always mate 👍
Another great video mate.Quick question.For cleaning tyres with Surfex HD what would be the ideal dilution ratio.Appreciate your response.
1:10 works really well.
The Nol's Jon, does that include Noel Edmunds??!! 🤣 Sorry couldn't resist!!
Find a used ture or more and make a long time test. Wash the tire, dress it and see how it's going over time. I have seen a lot of dressing turns the tire brown. Over time and that looks like shit.
I like the tires to be mattblack. I think there is maybe a layer of protektion for storing tyres so they don't crack. But on the other hand it's always a good idea to have fresh tyres so if they are cracking after 2-3sesons then it's time to change enyway
The tyre gets most sun on the outside sidewall so it makes sens to protect them Amit. Rubber don't like sun.
Linking forward to see the tyre produkt shout-out
Whatever happened to tyre paint ?
:) its still out there, its nasty stuff though.
When you say don't use strong solvent on tyres does that include alloy wheel / fall out cleaner?
They typically aren't solvent based.
you may need to use a tar and glue remover on an alloy. try and keep it away from the tyre though I think. FR are water based like brain says.
Interesting video but why prefer water based products over solvents when water is a polar solvent? Educational question rather than a criticism
water is not a good solvent because grease and oil do not mix with it.
can you use autosmart g101 to clean tyres ? or isit bad idea ?
yes mate its good for that.
Fantastic video again Jon. Keep being controversial, nobody will challenge you when you are proclaiming the truth, need a bit in the detailing industry! keep it up.
Interesting I’m glad I know now.