Привет, друг!!! Спасибо за советы!!! Я тоже использую опилки для сушки заготовок, только не в пакетах, а в картоных коробках!!! Классный токарный станок!!! Удачи дружище!!!
Tank you Chad; your process is a very simple one, and I definitively will try it soon. ...Man, so simple: I can't believe it! I let you know the result.
Hey man, just wanted to say how much I appreciate your vids... I find them not overly explanatory, but thorough, honest, and zero ego, just really nice to watch and learn from. Just wanted to say thank you from a noob! ✌️❤️🍻🖖 🪵❤️🪵❤️🪵❤️
Thank you so much, Jack! Your comment means a lot to me... In one sentence, you captured basically everything I want my videos to be! Thank you for watching and sharing your comment! Feel free to ask any questions if you see something you'd like to know more about.
Nice video! I like the weighing ... I like the paper bags; now that supermarkets around here have dropped plastic bags, I'm drowning in brown paper bags ... 100% right about cracks propagating from sharp corners ... in one of my fields of interest, aerospace and aircraft, you can stop the propagation of a crack by drilling a small, ROUND, hole just ahead of where the crack is propagating ... this dissipates the internal stresses over the circumference of the hole, rather than at the tiny point of the crack ... so yes, your instinct to round over is SOLID!! Cheers and Good Luck, Farmer John, Ontario, Canada
Thanks Chad. Thank you for your clear explanation, very helpful this video. I am also gaining experience with this method of drying. The results so far are encouraging. Using multiple bags was new for me. 👍Frank.
Glad it was helpful! I've been using it for many years with a high rate of success. You can also stack them while bagged, so the middle ones don't get as much air flow and dry even more slowly. I tend to dry pretty aggressively, but I don't usually go all the way to where it's completely stable. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
Well done Chad! I remember when I first started turning this part of the process was not covered well on RUclips. Very informative and and an important part of the process. HA -- I see you use 2 bags in the drying process - have not seen anyone else do that --- I was told by a very accomplished artist to use 3 bags. I have lost very few if any bowls this way. Takes a bit longer - but it is worth it. Thanks again for another great video and learning session.
Hi man. I must stress I'm confused a bit: kiln dry or microwave or oven they all fasten the process of drying. You say we have to slower the process of drying to avoid cracks which I agree, so how come the bowls come out of a kiln/oven without cracking? Thanks for your answer. Marino
ThanksI have done the same for the last few years. If you don't need the bowls any time soon eventually you will have enough that you will always have dry stock. Recently I have had needs and no dry stock to use. I have found that one or two hour stints in our convection oven on the lowest setting of 140 deg works wonders.
@@PoisonShot20 I use bags and boxes too. Depends on the urgency. If I’m in a rush normally 1 hour in the oven or maybe 2. First rule is that there are no rules. Just try it and see.
HI Chad, this was a great video! I've been experimenting with different ways of drying my bowls, with mixed success. All your info will really help, thanks for doing this.
Good job with this subject. I released a coring video last night. The 2 go together quite well. Getting wet wood peeped and set aside has been an issue for me. I het it roughed and can’t help myself. I go ahead and finish it. They pretty well crack every time when I do that. You explained the process well. Thanks
Thanks, Doug! Just peeked at your video... I'm so happy to see that you demo the McNaughton... that's the one I have! But I have only used it once so far and it seems like it will take some practice. I know what you mean about setting aside bowls to dry. I mostly turn bowls to completion while green, but I've been trying to do more twice turned pieces and keep a stock of dry rough outs.
Informative video. I am going to have to start doing some of that. When Covid hit I got a lathe since I was going to be spending more time in my shop. I've been working through my firewood pile and have had pretty good success using a microwave, but as I get serious about stockpiling bowl blanks I will need something more reliable.
I recently took a black cherry tree down which was leaning badly. It wasn’t real large but I did get a bunch of 10” bowl blanks from it. I rough cut them much like you do. Then I coated any areas I considered end grain with Anchorseal and just set them aside inside our house where we are having lower humidity typical of winter. After about a month I noticed some large cracks on the back side of a few of the bowls. One of them almost looked like it exploded. Maybe there was additional stress in the wood because of the lean. Obviously the Anchorseal did not slow the drying down enough. I have a bandsaw sawmill and I wonder if I would be better off to just cut 4” slabs from the logs and let them sit for a while before rough cutting bowls? I have not had as much trouble with ash bowls that were very wet to start. I suspect red oak will be more problematic. Anyway thanks for sharing your experience. I am new to this and I guess if it was all super easy it wouldn’t be as interesting or as much fun.
Drying wood takes practice as much as turning wood does, unfortunately. The lean of the tree may have had some effect on the wood (compression, tension, etc.) but I wouldn’t expect it to have a major effect on how the wood dries. If the tree wasn’t very large then the pith may have ended up closer to your blank than is ideal, which is a definite source of cracks. Maybe try to cut your blanks farther from the pith if possible. Also, using paper bags or a cardboard box along with the anchorseal might help. Anchorseal alone has never really worked for me. Consistent thickness is also a must. Drying bowls is one of those things you just have to get a feel for and see what works for you. Good luck!
In regards to anchor-seal, tree-saver, etc., you could just use any wax, linseed oil, shellac, wood glue, etc. -- cheap stuff you probably already have in your shop. I doubt there would be any difference.
That’s a pretty accurate statement but there is a little performance difference that I’ve found… and I have used all sorts of things around my shop as sealers/coatings. Paraffin wax is the best in my opinion, but it’s hard to apply; I mostly use it to store/dry unturned blanks. The wood sealers are next best, but it takes 2-3 coats (I use it slightly thinned with water). Wood glue or white glue is okay, but it dries hard so any rough surface becomes abrasive; I only use it in a pinch. 2-3 coats is probably equivalent to the sealers. I’d avoid linseed oil just because of the smell of that much oil. Shellac seems like it might take a lot to seal well, but I’m not a big shellac user so I’m not sure. Spray rubber isn’t too bad, but it’s not really cheap. Latex paint is okay, but again needs a few coats and it hides the whole surface. The hands down cheapest, easiest, and most able to regulate the drying of rough turned bowls is paper bags, with or without shavings. No contest, IMHO.
I suggest you use cardboard boxes instead of paper bags. You can put several bowls in the same box and they are easily stacked in the garage. I let mine dry for 6 months.
You are way more patient than me, Harold! Personally, I don’t like boxes because it’s harder to find a place to fit a rigid box in my shop than it is to fit a big paper bag full of bowls. And if I turn half of the bowls, the bag now occupies half the space. I suggest you use big paper bags instead of boxes. 😁 Just kidding... I encourage people to do what works for them in their environment and their shop. But always be open to alternatives.
It is a species of oak tree common in the midwest/eastern US and considered a type of white oak. They can get quite large; the one my wood came from had a trunk over 6 feet in diameter. The wood is relatively hard and heavy.
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Привет, друг!!! Спасибо за советы!!! Я тоже использую опилки для сушки заготовок, только не в пакетах, а в картоных коробках!!! Классный токарный станок!!! Удачи дружище!!!
Tank you Chad; your process is a very simple one, and I definitively will try it soon. ...Man, so simple: I can't believe it! I let you know the result.
Hey man, just wanted to say how much I appreciate your vids... I find them not overly explanatory, but thorough, honest, and zero ego, just really nice to watch and learn from. Just wanted to say thank you from a noob! ✌️❤️🍻🖖
🪵❤️🪵❤️🪵❤️
Thank you so much, Jack! Your comment means a lot to me... In one sentence, you captured basically everything I want my videos to be! Thank you for watching and sharing your comment! Feel free to ask any questions if you see something you'd like to know more about.
@@ChadEamesWoodWorks thanks man, I will!
great video Chad! Another turner here
Nice video! I like the weighing ... I like the paper bags; now that supermarkets around here have dropped plastic bags, I'm drowning in brown paper bags ... 100% right about cracks propagating from sharp corners ... in one of my fields of interest, aerospace and aircraft, you can stop the propagation of a crack by drilling a small, ROUND, hole just ahead of where the crack is propagating ... this dissipates the internal stresses over the circumference of the hole, rather than at the tiny point of the crack ... so yes, your instinct to round over is SOLID!! Cheers and Good Luck, Farmer John, Ontario, Canada
Thanks so much for the info, John! That’s great to know. (And I’m glad that my instinct was right.) Take care.
Thanks Chad. Thank you for your clear explanation, very helpful this video. I am also gaining experience with this method of drying. The results so far are encouraging. Using multiple bags was new for me.
👍Frank.
Glad it was helpful! I've been using it for many years with a high rate of success. You can also stack them while bagged, so the middle ones don't get as much air flow and dry even more slowly. I tend to dry pretty aggressively, but I don't usually go all the way to where it's completely stable. Good luck! Thanks for watching!
Well done Chad! I remember when I first started turning this part of the process was not covered well on RUclips. Very informative and and an important part of the process.
HA -- I see you use 2 bags in the drying process - have not seen anyone else do that --- I was told by a very accomplished artist to use 3 bags. I have lost very few if any bowls this way. Takes a bit longer - but it is worth it.
Thanks again for another great video and learning session.
Thank you, Joel! Depending on the type of wood and the type of paper bag, I might use as many as 3 also.
Love the video, informative, keep up the good work. Take care, stay safe.
Thanks, will do!
Hi man. I must stress I'm confused a bit: kiln dry or microwave or oven they all fasten the process of drying. You say we have to slower the process of drying to avoid cracks which I agree, so how come the bowls come out of a kiln/oven without cracking? Thanks for your answer. Marino
ThanksI have done the same for the last few years. If you don't need the bowls any time soon eventually you will have enough that you will always have dry stock. Recently I have had needs and no dry stock to use. I have found that one or two hour stints in our convection oven on the lowest setting of 140 deg works wonders.
For how long? Also, are you talking about a semi- dry blanket or green, freshly cut? And what do you think about cardboard boxes, instead of bags?
@@PoisonShot20 I use bags and boxes too. Depends on the urgency. If I’m in a rush normally 1 hour in the oven or maybe 2. First rule is that there are no rules. Just try it and see.
@@crackerjack3359 Got it!
HI Chad, this was a great video! I've been experimenting with different ways of drying my bowls, with mixed success. All your info will really help, thanks for doing this.
Great! I’m glad you liked it!
Good job with this subject. I released a coring video last night. The 2 go together quite well. Getting wet wood peeped and set aside has been an issue for me. I het it roughed and can’t help myself. I go ahead and finish it. They pretty well crack every time when I do that. You explained the process well. Thanks
Thanks, Doug! Just peeked at your video... I'm so happy to see that you demo the McNaughton... that's the one I have! But I have only used it once so far and it seems like it will take some practice. I know what you mean about setting aside bowls to dry. I mostly turn bowls to completion while green, but I've been trying to do more twice turned pieces and keep a stock of dry rough outs.
Informative video. I am going to have to start doing some of that. When Covid hit I got a lathe since I was going to be spending more time in my shop. I've been working through my firewood pile and have had pretty good success using a microwave, but as I get serious about stockpiling bowl blanks I will need something more reliable.
Thanks for watching, David! Good luck!
I recently took a black cherry tree down which was leaning badly. It wasn’t real large but I did get a bunch of 10” bowl blanks from it. I rough cut them much like you do. Then I coated any areas I considered end grain with Anchorseal and just set them aside inside our house where we are having lower humidity typical of winter. After about a month I noticed some large cracks on the back side of a few of the bowls. One of them almost looked like it exploded. Maybe there was additional stress in the wood because of the lean. Obviously the Anchorseal did not slow the drying down enough. I have a bandsaw sawmill and I wonder if I would be better off to just cut 4” slabs from the logs and let them sit for a while before rough cutting bowls? I have not had as much trouble with ash bowls that were very wet to start. I suspect red oak will be more problematic. Anyway thanks for sharing your experience. I am new to this and I guess if it was all super easy it wouldn’t be as interesting or as much fun.
Drying wood takes practice as much as turning wood does, unfortunately. The lean of the tree may have had some effect on the wood (compression, tension, etc.) but I wouldn’t expect it to have a major effect on how the wood dries. If the tree wasn’t very large then the pith may have ended up closer to your blank than is ideal, which is a definite source of cracks. Maybe try to cut your blanks farther from the pith if possible. Also, using paper bags or a cardboard box along with the anchorseal might help. Anchorseal alone has never really worked for me. Consistent thickness is also a must. Drying bowls is one of those things you just have to get a feel for and see what works for you. Good luck!
Interesting ideas. Ever thought about investing in a bowl saver.
I have the McNaughton system, but I’m still getting the hang of it. Bur oak is a little more than I wanted to attempt with it right now.
In regards to anchor-seal, tree-saver, etc., you could just use any wax, linseed oil, shellac, wood glue, etc. -- cheap stuff you probably already have in your shop. I doubt there would be any difference.
That’s a pretty accurate statement but there is a little performance difference that I’ve found… and I have used all sorts of things around my shop as sealers/coatings. Paraffin wax is the best in my opinion, but it’s hard to apply; I mostly use it to store/dry unturned blanks. The wood sealers are next best, but it takes 2-3 coats (I use it slightly thinned with water). Wood glue or white glue is okay, but it dries hard so any rough surface becomes abrasive; I only use it in a pinch. 2-3 coats is probably equivalent to the sealers. I’d avoid linseed oil just because of the smell of that much oil. Shellac seems like it might take a lot to seal well, but I’m not a big shellac user so I’m not sure. Spray rubber isn’t too bad, but it’s not really cheap. Latex paint is okay, but again needs a few coats and it hides the whole surface. The hands down cheapest, easiest, and most able to regulate the drying of rough turned bowls is paper bags, with or without shavings. No contest, IMHO.
Thank you for presentation, but someone advice me to imersed inside food rice bag for 24 hourse, what do recommand 😊
OK, I make 400-500 bowls a year. Where can I get paper bags at a discount?
I suggest you use cardboard boxes instead of paper bags. You can put several bowls in the same box and they are easily stacked in the garage. I let mine dry for 6 months.
You are way more patient than me, Harold! Personally, I don’t like boxes because it’s harder to find a place to fit a rigid box in my shop than it is to fit a big paper bag full of bowls. And if I turn half of the bowls, the bag now occupies half the space. I suggest you use big paper bags instead of boxes. 😁 Just kidding... I encourage people to do what works for them in their environment and their shop. But always be open to alternatives.
What is Burr Oak?
It is a species of oak tree common in the midwest/eastern US and considered a type of white oak. They can get quite large; the one my wood came from had a trunk over 6 feet in diameter. The wood is relatively hard and heavy.
The sound is terrible