I didnt vapour barrier on our build. I tapped but i didnt seal it completely. Venting is crucial. We have no condensation issues with our fan and vent open. Its really important that people understand if they "seal" the van then they seal in any moisture during the build and make it nearly impossible for it to escape. Love your builds.
@jrwillis - The amount of moisture ‘sealed’ in during the build process is negligible, a few ml. Greg Virgoe did a good video which shows the calculations. The concern is not getting a good seal on the vapour barrier and moisture building up over time within the insulation layer (as the barrier then prevents moisture getting back out)
Hi Stu Nice to see you back from your travels with the family 😊. Now, back to some hard graft 😅. Lovely to see a professional back doing what he does best. Good luck with the current van builds, sure the customer's will be happy, Looks like one out and one in 😉 As always, good luck for the future. Paul and Joanne 👍 😊
We all start somewhere mate and I love all vans weather quirky, budget or fancy as long as it suits your needs right now. If you need any upgrades you know where I am 👍🏻
There are arguments for and against them as there are pros and cons against them. My only question would be why don’t any of the big builders (swift, burstner etc) put it in their vans?
There is vapor retarder, which I am considering using with my wool insulation. It lets vapor escape into the van but not from the van to the insulation. Would that be something you would use?
Love your work and the detail. The Solway panels look good, gives a really professional finish. Pity about that gap between roof and wall that the "new guy" finished off. The bit on the opposite side from the door let's your great finish and quality look down. Maybe that bit is getting covered up?
Thank you, yes there is cabling in the roof there so we opted for a thinner piece so it was bowed as much and the microwave is being fitted in that exact point 👍🏻
Hi Stu, glad you had a good holiday. Van is coming along nicely - can I ask, how much did Solway charge for palleting up their panels kit to send to you? Getting close to putting my order in. Many thanks, Richard 👍
Hi Richard it was £2k for the kit which if I’m honest don’t think they are worth it or good enough. Can achieve these kind of looks for much cheaper and not using carpet or tongue and groove
We fit two types of windows, bonded glass windows from trade vehicle windows which can have sliding openers and we fit flush motorhome windows from Cheshire vehicle windows which have bottom openers on 👍🏻🚐
Agreed we did vapour barriers on a few then decided it was trapping moisture then bought an Adria camper and they don’t fit a vapour barrier so they must be doing it right
@@sccobyste The man literally does mechanical services for a living, that means his day job is heating, ventilation and insulation. He has built TWO vans but alas, I am also an HVAC enginner to traid and a qualified electrician, doesnt matter how many vans I have built either I just know my stuff.
We get them from clear cut although there are a few suppliers, must say I’ve been impressed with them, here’s a link clearcutconversions.co.uk/product/rv-electrical-water-heater-12v-new-product/
Lovely looking van this is. What size are the windows all round? Also, are you using any rubber seal between the furniture and the panels? Looks like something black in the videos.
@VanologyConversions brilliant thank you. I rung them today and they were so helpful and offered discount against the online prices which is a bonus. I think I'm going 1000x500 for the sides, 900x350 foot of the double bed and 500x500 each rear door.
What van are you putting them on. To be fair to them they are extremely helpful which was one of the main reasons I went with them to start with then the product spoke for itself 👍🏻
I agree. Say NO to Vapour barriers 😅 thermoliner is a really good product. Don't seem to get any moisture dumping on that. Good advice about the gas vents, i hadn't realised about low level venting
Hi Stu. Are those the curved windows to suit the van profile or the straight ones? I’ve been looking at both, the curve isn’t very much on the curved one and I wondered it was worth the extra £120 odd quid?
These windows are the straight ones, to be honest the curve where these get fitted is so minimal the panels don’t warp at all 👍🏻 I also don’t pull the windows in quite as tight on the bottom, they are fully sealed there mind
@@VanologyConversions thanks for that 👍 I agree ( I think) I’ve been looking at low profile top hung windows at Jackson’s leisure that look very similar. I think they look great when fitted 👍 Thanks again
Hi Stu. I converted my van couple of yrs ago. I didn't put any battens on floor. I glued pir board directly to floor. Using fixoflex 522.which is strong enough to hold solar panels to roof at say 70mph Ive mentioned to many other van fitters about this. One reply it's not crash tested. But that's a ridiculous answer. None of cupboards etc etc are crash tested But I notice from this video that you're willing to listen to other points if view Ive copied video from guy in USA that is a big converter of vans etc. He does the same as me. Putting battens down is a waste of time. Just glue to each ridge on floor (approx 14) and lay pir board on top. Stagger joints of ply on top. I glue ply joints with polyurethane then sand level after. Only takes 5 mins ruclips.net/video/zKFNlZAPb0A/видео.htmlsi=VFzh069nKqOAO4N1
I plan to do the same, in Canada the Ducato is called RAM Promaster: glue 25mm XPS foam over the ridges of the metal floor then glue 15mm baltic birch plywood over the foam. The little things I will do differently is to use the 10 anchor points already in the metal floor to attach the plywood floor and I am adding wood battens in front of the sliding door and the rear doors. Joints between the XPS and plywood sheets are also glued and there will be and offset between them.
@@ianbayley4416 I am not sure to understand your comment: I wrote that I was gluing 25mm XPS to my van metal floor then a 15mm baltic birch plywood over the XPS.
The glue down method is stronger than battens. There are approx 14 ridges across the van which you glue on. You have around 5/6 battens across floor with batten method.. And no more screws through floor
Someone who ctually understands vapor barriers! . All these clowns with full vapor barriers in their seilf builds with litres of water trapped behind them take note!
Glad to see somebody with the same mindset on vapour barriers. Venting and breathability are key.
100% mate 👊🏻🚐
I have to say I'm in the Greg Vigoe camp on the insulation front.
Insulation is great, vapour barrier not so much 👍🏻
Me too
Same here. Moist air will go through insulation and condence if there's nothing stopping it aka a vapour barrier.
I knew something was missing and then realised i hadn't seen a Vanology vid for ages. Good to see you back big fella.
Thanks mate, good to back and raring to go 🚐👍🏻
So glad you all had a great holiday. Your work blows my mind, so beautiful. 😊
Thank you very much 💙
good to see you back from the sunshine and warmth, I have been having withdraw symptoms, great video as always, very informative.......
🤣😂 should have the videos back to weekly from here on, been a manic few weeks 👍🏻
I didnt vapour barrier on our build. I tapped but i didnt seal it completely. Venting is crucial. We have no condensation issues with our fan and vent open. Its really important that people understand if they "seal" the van then they seal in any moisture during the build and make it nearly impossible for it to escape.
Love your builds.
Thanks mate, 100% it’s all about venting, avoiding bridges and air flow 👍🏻🚐
@jrwillis - The amount of moisture ‘sealed’ in during the build process is negligible, a few ml. Greg Virgoe did a good video which shows the calculations. The concern is not getting a good seal on the vapour barrier and moisture building up over time within the insulation layer (as the barrier then prevents moisture getting back out)
Not going there either making sure I ventilate sufficiently. Save cash and time. Can't wait to get underway, but it costs a lot to get it all done !
Another great video, could watch these all-day, well done stu and Charlie.👍
Thank mate 👊🏻
Great to have you back, l was starting to have with-drawl symptoms🤣
🤣😂 Great to be back too, happy new year
Hi Stu
Nice to see you back from your travels with the family 😊.
Now, back to some hard graft 😅.
Lovely to see a professional back doing what he does best.
Good luck with the current van builds, sure the customer's will be happy,
Looks like one out and one in 😉
As always, good luck for the future.
Paul and Joanne 👍 😊
Thanks guys, will have 4 vans here by the end of the week 👀 luckily we got some extra hands to help out now 👍🏻
@@VanologyConversions
Nice one, happy the works rolling in for you, well deserved 👏 👍
Thank you
Looks fantastic you make it look so easy
Thank you 👊🏻
Good to see you back.
Thank you 👊🏻
1 day I hope I can get a van like one you build.. built mine from dumpsters and skips it's not all that pretty but very low cost and it works
We all start somewhere mate and I love all vans weather quirky, budget or fancy as long as it suits your needs right now. If you need any upgrades you know where I am 👍🏻
Greg Virgoe is an experienced professional engineer. He has unequivocally proven the benefits of a vapour barrier.
There are arguments for and against them as there are pros and cons against them. My only question would be why don’t any of the big builders (swift, burstner etc) put it in their vans?
That's good info about the vapour seal. Thanks
Thanks mate 👊🏻
No vapour barrier going in my van .top job on the build mate cracking set up two mate 🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌
Work the venting and it will be sound 👊🏻
Great video. Van coming along nicely ✅
Thanks mate 👊🏻
Cracking video mate top job 🙌🙌🙌🙌
Cheers mate 👊🏻
There is vapor retarder, which I am considering using with my wool insulation. It lets vapor escape into the van but not from the van to the insulation. Would that be something you would use?
Agree bro
Brilliant 👍
Thank you 💙
Love your work and the detail. The Solway panels look good, gives a really professional finish. Pity about that gap between roof and wall that the "new guy" finished off. The bit on the opposite side from the door let's your great finish and quality look down. Maybe that bit is getting covered up?
Thank you, yes there is cabling in the roof there so we opted for a thinner piece so it was bowed as much and the microwave is being fitted in that exact point 👍🏻
Hi stu good to have you back looking good thinking about doing my first build where can I require some furniture board?🤔
You should do it, very satisfying 👍🏻 we get them from Morland in Welshpool
Hi Stu, glad you had a good holiday. Van is coming along nicely - can I ask, how much did Solway charge for palleting up their panels kit to send to you? Getting close to putting my order in. Many thanks, Richard 👍
Hi Richard it was £2k for the kit which if I’m honest don’t think they are worth it or good enough. Can achieve these kind of looks for much cheaper and not using carpet or tongue and groove
That windows doesn't look sliding? More like safari. Please can you show how it works or link to the product?
We fit two types of windows, bonded glass windows from trade vehicle windows which can have sliding openers and we fit flush motorhome windows from Cheshire vehicle windows which have bottom openers on 👍🏻🚐
Pleased to see you back ...Amazing watching you what a superb job you do .
Thanks mate, it’s good to be back 👊🏻
Hey there just about to start my build do you use foam to stick the PIR board to the side panels thanks keep up the great content
Hey mate, Greg virgo uses these stick on needle things for holding the insulation but you can go round the surrounding void with foam.
Agreed we did vapour barriers on a few then decided it was trapping moisture then bought an Adria camper and they don’t fit a vapour barrier so they must be doing it right
None of the manufacturers or large camper converters use them, they all work venting into their builds 👍🏻
@@VanologyConversions 100% agreed don’t follow the Virgo stories lol
@@sccobysteGreg knows what he is talkig about though... Hot hot topic
@@chiefgilray no he doesn’t he’s built one van
@@sccobyste The man literally does mechanical services for a living, that means his day job is heating, ventilation and insulation. He has built TWO vans but alas, I am also an HVAC enginner to traid and a qualified electrician, doesnt matter how many vans I have built either I just know my stuff.
Interesting comment on fitting gas drop vents, where do you normally fit them please?
We always try and fit one in any bench seat and one in the garage 👊🏻🚐
@@VanologyConversions Thanks, so they are just internal air flow rather than fitting them in the bodywork for external airflow yeah?
Yes mate it’s to keep the van vented and reduce condensation 👍🏻🚐
Van looking good 👍 what is the brand of water heater and Kw? Looks like Ariston that you use in homes etc ?
We get them from clear cut although there are a few suppliers, must say I’ve been impressed with them, here’s a link clearcutconversions.co.uk/product/rv-electrical-water-heater-12v-new-product/
@@VanologyConversions I found them last night cheers. But your link is a couple quid cheaper 😂 so bonus
How do you get insurance and breakdown to cover you for moroco as thinking of venturing further afield and how do you find park ups in moroco ?
You have to purchase it at the port when you get there, park ups are everywhere we use park4night 👍🏻🚐
@@VanologyConversions how. Much is the insurance and for how long?
Lovely looking van this is.
What size are the windows all round?
Also, are you using any rubber seal between the furniture and the panels? Looks like something black in the videos.
Front sides are 1100 x 450, rear side panel is 500 x 350 and rear doors are 509 x 450
@VanologyConversions brilliant thank you. I rung them today and they were so helpful and offered discount against the online prices which is a bonus.
I think I'm going 1000x500 for the sides, 900x350 foot of the double bed and 500x500 each rear door.
What van are you putting them on. To be fair to them they are extremely helpful which was one of the main reasons I went with them to start with then the product spoke for itself 👍🏻
@@VanologyConversions Fiat Ducato H2 L2.
What exactly are the low level vents ???
It’s vents in the lower area of the van or floor to allow for air circulation 👍🏻
Been looking forward to this video Stu. PS do you have a relay bull head in your units spare ?
It was over due 🤣😂 what year for the relay?
69 Reg I need one to scribe the bulk head panel. As a idiot I am I chucked mine a long time ago 😅
I get them all the time so won’t be more than a couple of weeks before I have one, in fact I think the boxer I have there has one you can have
@@VanologyConversions okay great, I have your email. Can I email to arrange ?
Cheers stu
Yes of course
Hi Stu, did you sell the alloys ? Only just saw video… 🤞
Still have them mate 👍🏻
@@VanologyConversions my wife has pm on fb as well, are they 16” ? what condition are they please? How much? Thanks, Jez.
Hello
Do you know website where i can buy a swivel seat mount for peugeot boxer 2015 with shippment to Estonia.
Hi mate, I’m afraid I don’t. Maybe try eBay and set it to show options for shipment to your country 👍🏻
How do you registered what do you register as
What do you mean?
Do you use sound deadening on panels
Yes always use sound deadening, you want to cover 30 to 50% of each panel to increase its density 👊🏻
That should be the final word on vapour barriers.. debate over!
Amen 🙌🏻
can you link that sender unit mate and really like those windows
The windows are brilliant, love the quality and worth the extra work to fit them. What sender unit mate?
sorry sender unit is prob wrong term. boxer main fuel tank long tube and low profile right angle nozzle thing :)
Leave some for me 🤣 amzn.to/47zyqzq
Do you need to remove the sender before drilling that nipple? I see most people drill the breather pipe instead.
I agree. Say NO to Vapour barriers 😅 thermoliner is a really good product. Don't seem to get any moisture dumping on that. Good advice about the gas vents, i hadn't realised about low level venting
Venting is an absolute must, as long as that’s taken care of the van will look after itself 👍🏻
Great to see you back in the game Stu. Good info on vapour barrier and diesel sender 👍
Thanks mate, great to be back 👊🏻
Hi, are the wheels still for sale?
Hi yes they are mate email is info@vanologyconversions.co.uk
Its coming together really nicely Stu, looking forward to seeing it at the end as its certainly a different layout to the normal. 🙂
I’m looking forward to seeing it finished 🤣😂 I’ve enjoyed it but been too long now
Hi Stu. Are those the curved windows to suit the van profile or the straight ones? I’ve been looking at both, the curve isn’t very much on the curved one and I wondered it was worth the extra £120 odd quid?
These windows are the straight ones, to be honest the curve where these get fitted is so minimal the panels don’t warp at all 👍🏻 I also don’t pull the windows in quite as tight on the bottom, they are fully sealed there mind
@@VanologyConversions thanks for that 👍 I agree ( I think) I’ve been looking at low profile top hung windows at Jackson’s leisure that look very similar. I think they look great when fitted 👍
Thanks again
The windows are really nice.
Do you have a link/manufacturer name?
cheshirevehiclewindows.co.uk/product-category/campervan-hinged-windows/
@@VanologyConversions
thanks a lot!
Hi Stu. I converted my van couple of yrs ago. I didn't put any battens on floor. I glued pir board directly to floor. Using fixoflex 522.which is strong enough to hold solar panels to roof at say 70mph
Ive mentioned to many other van fitters about this. One reply it's not crash tested. But that's a ridiculous answer. None of cupboards etc etc are crash tested
But I notice from this video that you're willing to listen to other points if view
Ive copied video from guy in USA that is a big converter of vans etc. He does the same as me. Putting battens down is a waste of time. Just glue to each ridge on floor (approx 14) and lay pir board on top. Stagger joints of ply on top. I glue ply joints with polyurethane then sand level after. Only takes 5 mins
ruclips.net/video/zKFNlZAPb0A/видео.htmlsi=VFzh069nKqOAO4N1
I’ve seen many fit them this way, I personally prefer the mechanical fixing just for that extra peace of mind 👍🏻
I plan to do the same, in Canada the Ducato is called RAM Promaster: glue 25mm XPS foam over the ridges of the metal floor then glue 15mm baltic birch plywood over the foam. The little things I will do differently is to use the 10 anchor points already in the metal floor to attach the plywood floor and I am adding wood battens in front of the sliding door and the rear doors. Joints between the XPS and plywood sheets are also glued and there will be and offset between them.
But you wont have insulated your floor?
@@ianbayley4416 I am not sure to understand your comment: I wrote that I was gluing 25mm XPS to my van metal floor then a 15mm baltic birch plywood over the XPS.
The glue down method is stronger than battens. There are approx 14 ridges across the van which you glue on. You have around 5/6 battens across floor with batten method.. And no more screws through floor
Nice update thanks, lots of repeats of repeats of repeats of you describing stuff mind 😂😂
Yea I got that too when I just watched it on the big telebob. Also needs more b roll 👊🏻
@@VanologyConversions always good to see more, you’re busy bunnies though so easy to forget.
Someone who ctually understands vapor barriers! . All these clowns with full vapor barriers in their seilf builds with litres of water trapped behind them take note!
Exactly mate, I’ve been on buildings for years and done regulation training and they also work on venting etc so why would a van be different 👍🏻
👍🚐😎
👊🏻🚐😜