I can't tell you how grateful I am for your videos on water based guitar finishes. They have helped me so much in my endeavor to paint with acrylics. Thank you!
I finished the guitar I was building for our 1000 subscriber giveaway. It was not a disaster. As a matter of fact it is the first thing I have ever envisioned that came out exactly as I had envisioned it. Thanks for your kindness 😊.
I just finished my lp jr kit from Solo. Mahogany body and neck which I grain filled with stew mac mahogany grain filler. I went to Home Depot and bought some Varathane clear gloss water based ultimate and a few foam brushes. I stained it with trans tint red but wasn’t happy with the way it picked up the stain so I added tint to a small amount of finish and gave it about four or five coats. I sanded it flat and gave it at least twelve coats of clear and let it set for 5 days or so. I wet sanded it flat with 1000 and progressed to 3000 before using 3M rubbing compound on a foam pad with a drill. It surprised me with the luster. I was working in my basement and couldn’t use solvents due to my wife’s allergies.
Great example! Water based lacquer its the way to go. Its got bad rep mostly because people on its first try use too many coats and/or thick coats, then they have to deal with a lot of sanding. Also, going cheap on the lacquer means lots of sticky residue and grabby finish at high gloss.
No, that's not what I said. This clear coat product works better in certain environmental conditions when mixed with the retarder/reducer. However, it isn't necessary. It's similar to adding lacquer thinner to nitrocellulose to achieve the proper viscosity for your spray equipment and environmental conditions.
Thanks for all your vidios Chris. I've learned a lot about applying clear coat finishes from them. Is there any chance of a video showing how you buff out witness lines? That would be VERY useful.
Love your videos. Started using Brite Tone because of them. I am having issues with witeness lines and you mentioned a process of buffing you have to deal with them. Do you have a video on that?
I've been struggling to fix the orange peel in my water based poly and I think you nailed the issue. I thinned with water to get the right viscosity but ended up with runs or light and dry coats. Gonna try your recommendations!
@@Nickporter17 Great that worked for you. I'm using the Earlex5500 and sprayed latex paint with the 2.0mm needle tip and that was fine, but then I sprayed polyacrylic and got runs. Too paint was coming out the gun and could have only regulate it to a certain degree. After some research I'm suppose to use the 1.5mm needle tip which is meant for lacquer and poly. So will try that and see how it works out . On the verge of learning this field .
@@rzub good luck nailing down the process. I guess it's a lot of trial and error. I had to learn that the hard way because I just finished whole projects and was unsatisfied with the results. I'm sure you already have a smart setup, but I found lighting to be the most helpful thing of all. If I remember correctly I was using a 1.0 needle, which was great for lacquer but not poly. I switched to the 1.5 needle and ended up with no runs and minimal orange peel.
@@Nickporter17 Oh yes some trial and error for sure but so far my project is coming out great. Good lighten is so important. Good info on the 1.0mm needle, will get that later . Good information Bro.
I build model cars. Future Acrylic Floor Shine worked great but they don't make it anymore. Pledge Floor Gloss is about the same. It has to be floor gloss and clear. I mix some in with the acrylic paint when painting and then I spray it on straight for the final coat. It's tough, it buffs up beautifully and you can add more with a soft cloth when needed.
I build model cars as well. When I ran out of Future, I purchased the Pledge product. Works fine. For guitars however, acrylic is just not hard enough. Polyurethane is tougher.
Hey Chris. I don’t know if anyone has said this but; have you tried using a humidifier? When I was in Northern Maine, I had to use one because of the low humidity. They are relatively inexpensive. Check with the company and see what they recommend. I would guess that 40-60% would work well. You can get a temp/humidigraph to make sure your shop is at optimum temperature and humidity. It will take longer to dry of course but it may save time In sanding. I hope this helps!
I am assuming, since you had shown both gravity and your Earlex siphon feed guns that the 1mm needle size was the defining factor in gun choice. I’m using a MasPro 20 1mm gravity feed gun and getting the drying effect with a moderate 40% humidity at 65-75°. I find myself laying it down two thick trying to compensate then I get sags. Although the Brite Tone is giving beautiful depth and clarity where it went on well, it’s an ES335 style guitar, the edge curves are where the drying spray/overspray is more granular as in your demonstration. I purchased crystalac’ s reducer /retarder to give it a try. Also, I find that, except for sags that I take down with 3M Prograde 400, that the grey scotchbright style pads work great between coats. Also, silicon, wax and oil free tack rags are now available for, and work well (time will tell) on my water based projects. I did not have these problems with the water based polyurethane coating that Crystalac sells (blue label), but however I also did not produce the beautiful depth of finish that the Brite Tone gives. I hope I can get this to work rite because I really like how it looks!
Hi I've watched your video about removing swirl marks and you used Nufinish scratch doctor. Have you ever used Meguiars swirl remover? Is it any better compared to nufinish?
Chris, what do you suggest for high temp, high humidity? In the summer in my part of Texas, 80-100F daytime with 50-70% humidity. Seems the heat wants it to dry faster and the humidity slower. I work in my garage, so no climate control. Thanks, Steve T.
I would try a detail gun with a very small (.8mm) needle and add 3-5% viscosity reducer so you can spray a finely atomized pattern. However, before you buy anything, contact Crystalac (thecrystalacstore.com/pages/contact-us) and ask them what they recommend.
Have you ever used a sandable water-based primer under an acrylic color coat that you would recommend? I’m doing a refinish and would like to use a primer coat for adhesion, but also to check for imperfections in the surface before spraying color.
Great video Chris, thank you. Fyi, Crystalac no longer sells a retarder and a reducer separately. It's now formulated as a retarder/reducer. Can another retarder for waterbased lacquer be used? For example, Emtech retarder?
Thanks. I have the opposite problem, blue haze because of the humidity in air. Also I discover that for the first coat, I spray the next coat as soon as the first one is dry but not that dry (enough for the blue haze to be gone), so the coat better melt each other... But I do not use Crystallac, I ordered some, just waiting it to arrive. :)
I should have mentioned that another reason I switched to Crystalac is that no matter how hard I try, I can't get a blue haze. Every other product I tested gave me the blues (pun intended)!
Great video, as I am spraying Brite Tone sanding sealer TODAY!. So, in your previous detailed Brite Tone video, you said you spayed 4-5 coats of the sealer and sanded with 800 and then you sprayed the Brite Tone topcoat, let it cure, and then sanded with just 1200 and then went right to the buffer. In this video you are sanding the sealer with 600 and the topcoat with 800. Have you modified your procedure? In this method, areyou starting with 800 for the topcoat and then going up to 2000 or something like that? Thanks for all these videos!
Sorry for the confusion. I had to drop down in grit because spraying in the dry heat produced a rough surface even with the sanding sealer. I will be doing a dry sanding video in a few weeks that will demonstrate my current approach for the final topcoats, but in a nutshell, I level with 800 and polish with 1,200 and 1,500. Then it's off to the buffer.
I'm planning on doing a custom paint color using the multi-surface acrylic paints you recommended in an earlier video. In that video, you recommended the GF Enduro Pre-Cat Lacquer as a clear. In this video, you are recommending CrystalLac. Which one is better?
I ended up having an issue with fisheyes in the Enduro Pre-Cat Lacquer, which I never was able to resolve. These days, I am a big fan of Crystalac Brite Tone. It's much easier to apply and buffs out beautifully.
Please🙏🏾 Further explanation you mean by cure times regarding coat applications. What is the recommended wait time before I can add an additional coat. Also.. are you saying that the total number of topcoats determines the total number of days needed to cure?? Pls help me understand better.. Thank you so much for all you do.
Hello I have a question. I was wondering if you can hand rub on the water base products instead of using a spray gun. Using crystalac premium clear gloss by rag, brush etc... before you apply the multi-coats, and the buff? Thanks.
Comparing this with your other crystalac video... are you still applying 3 coats a day with the retarder and after the 6th coat flat sanding then doing another 3 coats?
Chris, your videos are a much needed beacon of essential information. Thank you. In your video you say you use a 1ml needle. Would a thicker needle make any difference to the application of this product? Does it make any difference to the finish using either a HVLP or a LVLP gun? Much appreciated.
I find that I have less overspray with HVLP than with LVLP. However, I'm sure the quality of the gun makes a difference. The LVLP gun I have used in the past wasn't the best quality, so that has to be taken into consideration. The rule of thumb is to use the smallest needle possible. This will ensure the finest atomization of the material, which results in a smoother finish.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for taking the time to respond Chris although I must admit to being confused now. I have seen enough of your videos and tutorials to know you are a pioneer in experimenting to find the best products and processes but the crystalac company recommended using a thicker needle. Have you tried this?
Hi Chris, I'm getting ready to put the finish on my kit guitar, and I'll be using Crystalac's water-based wood filler, sanding sealer, and their Brite Tone lacquer. I'll also be using the Earlex 5500 Spray Station. Should I use the same techniques you've outlined for the clear coats when I spray the sanding sealer? Thank you so much for all of your tutorials. They've helped a whole lot:)
I bought 2k waterbased poly clear coat. Even after 4 days I can still dent it with my fingernail. It is no way near to be hard enough. If I wait 30 days will it get hard? Does curing mean becoming realy hard? Or should I just sand back to bare wood? I am really dishartened by how my project goes :( (Temperature is (20c but I always provide perfect air flow)
@@HighlineGuitars First of all, thanks a lot for the answer. Its a good and commercial brand (it seems to be). I dont live in US so thats the best I can get. Since its 2k, it should get a lot harder a lot faster. Thhat is what its advertised for. I contacted the manifacturer. Even before I purchase I asked about a lot of questions to manifacturer. Its said to be very durable and also healty (very low voc). But when I apply it, it does not get hard. It has a similar structure like a rubber eraser. I do not have any experiance with wood finishing so I am not sure what polyurethane should become. Is that normal to stay like rubber for a week then is it going to be hard? I also tried to make very thin layers. Thin layers become like a peel of a sunburnt human skin.
Can someone reccomend a good waterbased PU clear coat that can be found in Europe? I'm having a really hard time finding products as the ones you guys get in the US. Thanks
Can i ask please? Water based clear coats ,are more sensitive to create orange peel because of the evaporation of the water during cure? Or this is a kind of myth or misunderstanding? Thanks a lit
No, it’s not myth, but maybe a misunderstanding. Orange peel happens when atomized finish dries in the air before depositing on the surface. This can happen with any type of finish and can be eliminated with proper spray gun adjustment and technique. With water-based finishes, a slightly bumpy surface texture is common no matter what you do. It can be eliminated during the level sanding process.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks a lot sir I really appreciate your assistance. So maybe the truth is somewhere in the middle of the road . Thanks again My kind regards Much love from Athens Greece
I am confused by you statement that one tablespoon to two cups (retarder to finish) is a 10% mix, One cup is 16 tablespoons isn't it? So two cups would be 32 tablespoons and the mix would be 32:1 or about three percent, another way to say it is that one ounce is equal to two tablespoons. So, 2 cups equals 16 ounces which equals 32 table spoon. Am I missing something?
@Nik Reynolds I'm very fond of the metric system, and for temperature I prefer Kelvin. There is one upside to Fahrenheit and that is in the increments. So it can be helpful when cooking for example. Whatever one grew up with is more convenient. In the end it is all in metric and it's converted back to imperial.
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I can't tell you how grateful I am for your videos on water based guitar finishes. They have helped me so much in my endeavor to paint with acrylics. Thank you!
Thanks for recommending this clear, and for sharing your techniques. 😊👍🏻
You’re awesome bro, thanks for the lesson!
I finished the guitar I was building for our 1000 subscriber giveaway. It was not a disaster. As a matter of fact it is the first thing I have ever envisioned that came out exactly as I had envisioned it. Thanks for your kindness 😊.
Such cool color!
I just finished my lp jr kit from Solo. Mahogany body and neck which I grain filled with stew mac mahogany grain filler. I went to Home Depot and bought some Varathane clear gloss water based ultimate and a few foam brushes. I stained it with trans tint red but wasn’t happy with the way it picked up the stain so I added tint to a small amount of finish and gave it about four or five coats. I sanded it flat and gave it at least twelve coats of clear and let it set for 5 days or so. I wet sanded it flat with 1000 and progressed to 3000 before using 3M rubbing compound on a foam pad with a drill. It surprised me with the luster. I was working in my basement and couldn’t use solvents due to my wife’s allergies.
Thanks Chris! 🎸🎸👍
Great example! Water based lacquer its the way to go. Its got bad rep mostly because people on its first try use too many coats and/or thick coats, then they have to deal with a lot of sanding. Also, going cheap on the lacquer means lots of sticky residue and grabby finish at high gloss.
Selling a product that makes their product usable.
Genius.
No, that's not what I said. This clear coat product works better in certain environmental conditions when mixed with the retarder/reducer. However, it isn't necessary. It's similar to adding lacquer thinner to nitrocellulose to achieve the proper viscosity for your spray equipment and environmental conditions.
Thanks for all your vidios Chris. I've learned a lot about applying clear coat finishes from them. Is there any chance of a video showing how you buff out witness lines? That would be VERY useful.
I don’t really have a technique. I just buff.
Love your videos. Started using Brite Tone because of them. I am having issues with witeness lines and you mentioned a process of buffing you have to deal with them. Do you have a video on that?
I'd like to see this too! Thanks
I've been struggling to fix the orange peel in my water based poly and I think you nailed the issue. I thinned with water to get the right viscosity but ended up with runs or light and dry coats. Gonna try your recommendations!
Exactly what happened to me too.
@@rzub a bigger needle helped me not have to thin so much
@@Nickporter17 Great that worked for you. I'm using the Earlex5500 and sprayed latex paint with the 2.0mm needle tip and that was fine, but then I sprayed polyacrylic and got runs. Too paint was coming out the gun and could have only regulate it to a certain degree. After some research I'm suppose to use the 1.5mm needle tip which is meant for lacquer and poly. So will try that and see how it works out . On the verge of learning this field .
@@rzub good luck nailing down the process. I guess it's a lot of trial and error. I had to learn that the hard way because I just finished whole projects and was unsatisfied with the results. I'm sure you already have a smart setup, but I found lighting to be the most helpful thing of all. If I remember correctly I was using a 1.0 needle, which was great for lacquer but not poly. I switched to the 1.5 needle and ended up with no runs and minimal orange peel.
@@Nickporter17 Oh yes some trial and error for sure but so far my project is coming out great. Good lighten is so important. Good info on the 1.0mm needle, will get that later . Good information Bro.
I build model cars. Future Acrylic Floor Shine worked great but they don't make it anymore. Pledge Floor Gloss is about the same. It has to be floor gloss and clear. I mix some in with the acrylic paint when painting and then I spray it on straight for the final coat. It's tough, it buffs up beautifully and you can add more with a soft cloth when needed.
I build model cars as well. When I ran out of Future, I purchased the Pledge product. Works fine. For guitars however, acrylic is just not hard enough. Polyurethane is tougher.
Hey Chris. I don’t know if anyone has said this but; have you tried using a humidifier? When I was in Northern Maine, I had to use one because of the low humidity. They are relatively inexpensive. Check with the company and see what they recommend. I would guess that 40-60% would work well. You can get a temp/humidigraph to make sure your shop is at optimum temperature and humidity. It will take longer to dry of course but it may save time In sanding. I hope this helps!
How do you like the Earlex 5500? Curious at 2-3 hr coat intervals what do you do to keep the gun ready in between coats?
I am assuming, since you had shown both gravity and your Earlex siphon feed guns that the 1mm needle size was the defining factor in gun choice. I’m using a MasPro 20 1mm gravity feed gun and getting the drying effect with a moderate 40% humidity at 65-75°. I find myself laying it down two thick trying to compensate then I get sags. Although the Brite Tone is giving beautiful depth and clarity where it went on well, it’s an ES335 style guitar, the edge curves are where the drying spray/overspray is more granular as in your demonstration. I purchased crystalac’ s reducer /retarder to give it a try. Also, I find that, except for sags that I take down with 3M Prograde 400, that the grey scotchbright style pads work great between coats. Also, silicon, wax and oil free tack rags are now available for, and work well (time will tell) on my water based projects. I did not have these problems with the water based polyurethane coating that Crystalac sells (blue label), but however I also did not produce the beautiful depth of finish that the Brite Tone gives. I hope I can get this to work rite because I really like how it looks!
Hi I've watched your video about removing swirl marks and you used Nufinish scratch doctor.
Have you ever used Meguiars swirl remover?
Is it any better compared to nufinish?
Chris, what do you suggest for high temp, high humidity? In the summer in my part of Texas, 80-100F daytime with 50-70% humidity. Seems the heat wants it to dry faster and the humidity slower. I work in my garage, so no climate control. Thanks, Steve T.
I would try a detail gun with a very small (.8mm) needle and add 3-5% viscosity reducer so you can spray a finely atomized pattern. However, before you buy anything, contact Crystalac (thecrystalacstore.com/pages/contact-us) and ask them what they recommend.
Have you ever tried Flotrol latex paint additive. Give it a try and see what you think. You can get it at all the big box stores and Hardware stores
I don’t use acrylic latex on my guitars and would question the use of this product with water-based polyurethane.
Do you use same spray system (lvlp gun+ air compressor) for water-based coats as previously? Thanks!
No. I use a QualSpray WB125 HVLP + air compressor.
Have you ever used a sandable water-based primer under an acrylic color coat that you would recommend? I’m doing a refinish and would like to use a primer coat for adhesion, but also to check for imperfections in the surface before spraying color.
No, I haven't.
Chris do you have a link to the spray gun you use? From what I could tell the one you have requires no air compressor, just a vacuum hose attachment.
I use an Earlex 5500 spray system.
Is there an equivalent of Crystalac in Europe?
Hi Chris, Does the 3 coats of sanding sealer go on AFTER the base ( color ) coats but BEFORE the top ( clear ) coats? Thanks
Alway put the sanding sealer on first when painting a guitar. It helps protect the color from the wood’s natural oils.
Great video Chris, thank you. Fyi, Crystalac no longer sells a retarder and a reducer separately. It's now formulated as a retarder/reducer.
Can another retarder for waterbased lacquer be used? For example, Emtech retarder?
🤷🏻 that’s a question for the manufacturers.
Thanks. I have the opposite problem, blue haze because of the humidity in air. Also I discover that for the first coat, I spray the next coat as soon as the first one is dry but not that dry (enough for the blue haze to be gone), so the coat better melt each other... But I do not use Crystallac, I ordered some, just waiting it to arrive. :)
I should have mentioned that another reason I switched to Crystalac is that no matter how hard I try, I can't get a blue haze. Every other product I tested gave me the blues (pun intended)!
Great video, as I am spraying Brite Tone sanding sealer TODAY!. So, in your previous detailed Brite Tone video, you said you spayed 4-5 coats of the sealer and sanded with 800 and then you sprayed the Brite Tone topcoat, let it cure, and then sanded with just 1200 and then went right to the buffer. In this video you are sanding the sealer with 600 and the topcoat with 800. Have you modified your procedure? In this method, areyou starting with 800 for the topcoat and then going up to 2000 or something like that? Thanks for all these videos!
Sorry for the confusion. I had to drop down in grit because spraying in the dry heat produced a rough surface even with the sanding sealer. I will be doing a dry sanding video in a few weeks that will demonstrate my current approach for the final topcoats, but in a nutshell, I level with 800 and polish with 1,200 and 1,500. Then it's off to the buffer.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for the clarification. I'll look out for that dry sanding video.
Do you have a video on you buffing process with materials you use? TIA
Not at the moment, but one is in the works.
I'm planning on doing a custom paint color using the multi-surface acrylic paints you recommended in an earlier video. In that video, you recommended the GF Enduro Pre-Cat Lacquer as a clear. In this video, you are recommending CrystalLac. Which one is better?
I ended up having an issue with fisheyes in the Enduro Pre-Cat Lacquer, which I never was able to resolve. These days, I am a big fan of Crystalac Brite Tone. It's much easier to apply and buffs out beautifully.
Great, thank you Chris. Love the channel.
Please🙏🏾
Further explanation you mean by cure times regarding coat applications.
What is the recommended wait time before I can add an additional coat.
Also.. are you saying that the total number of topcoats determines the total number of days needed to cure??
Pls help me understand better..
Thank you so much for all you do.
Hello I have a question. I was wondering if you can hand rub on the water base products instead of using a spray gun. Using crystalac premium clear gloss by rag, brush etc... before you apply the multi-coats, and the buff?
Thanks.
Don’t rub it. Brush it.
Thank you very nuch
i have an lvlp gun and 30 gal compressor. what size tip you use for this product?
1.3mm to 1.5mm. You may need to thin it a bit, but you'll have to test to know how much.
Comparing this with your other crystalac video... are you still applying 3 coats a day with the retarder and after the 6th coat flat sanding then doing another 3 coats?
I only use the retarder on excessively hot and dry days. Otherwise, I still apply it this way.
Where did you get the spray gun that you used?
I used two guns. The Sprayit SP-33000: amzn.to/2PTK4QP and the Earlex 5500: amzn.to/3aAGjaD
When you spray 3-4 coats do you dry sand between coats ?
No.
What do you run your compressor at for your spray gun?
I set the psi at 40 coming out of the compressor and around 25 at the gun.
Chris, your videos are a much needed beacon of essential information. Thank you.
In your video you say you use a 1ml needle. Would a thicker needle make any difference to the application of this product?
Does it make any difference to the finish using either a HVLP or a LVLP gun?
Much appreciated.
I find that I have less overspray with HVLP than with LVLP. However, I'm sure the quality of the gun makes a difference. The LVLP gun I have used in the past wasn't the best quality, so that has to be taken into consideration. The rule of thumb is to use the smallest needle possible. This will ensure the finest atomization of the material, which results in a smoother finish.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for taking the time to respond Chris although I must admit to being confused now.
I have seen enough of your videos and tutorials to know you are a pioneer in experimenting to find the best products and processes but the crystalac company recommended using a thicker needle. Have you tried this?
Hi Chris, I'm getting ready to put the finish on my kit guitar, and I'll be using Crystalac's water-based wood filler, sanding sealer, and their Brite Tone lacquer. I'll also be using the Earlex 5500 Spray Station. Should I use the same techniques you've outlined for the clear coats when I spray the sanding sealer? Thank you so much for all of your tutorials. They've helped a whole lot:)
Yes. It worked for me.
I bought 2k waterbased poly clear coat. Even after 4 days I can still dent it with my fingernail. It is no way near to be hard enough. If I wait 30 days will it get hard? Does curing mean becoming realy hard? Or should I just sand back to bare wood? I am really dishartened by how my project goes :(
(Temperature is (20c but I always provide perfect air flow)
I don't use 2k water-based polyurethane, so I can't offer any advice. What brand is it? Maybe the manufacturer can advise.
@@HighlineGuitars First of all, thanks a lot for the answer. Its a good and commercial brand (it seems to be). I dont live in US so thats the best I can get. Since its 2k, it should get a lot harder a lot faster. Thhat is what its advertised for. I contacted the manifacturer. Even before I purchase I asked about a lot of questions to manifacturer. Its said to be very durable and also healty (very low voc). But when I apply it, it does not get hard. It has a similar structure like a rubber eraser. I do not have any experiance with wood finishing so I am not sure what polyurethane should become. Is that normal to stay like rubber for a week then is it going to be hard? I also tried to make very thin layers. Thin layers become like a peel of a sunburnt human skin.
Can someone reccomend a good waterbased PU clear coat that can be found in Europe? I'm having a really hard time finding products as the ones you guys get in the US. Thanks
Try Milesi. They're located in Italy and supply Europe.
@@HighlineGuitars I'm from Italy, so thanks a lot!
Can i ask please? Water based clear coats ,are more sensitive to create orange peel because of the evaporation of the water during cure?
Or this is a kind of myth or misunderstanding?
Thanks a lit
No, it’s not myth, but maybe a misunderstanding. Orange peel happens when atomized finish dries in the air before depositing on the surface. This can happen with any type of finish and can be eliminated with proper spray gun adjustment and technique. With water-based finishes, a slightly bumpy surface texture is common no matter what you do. It can be eliminated during the level sanding process.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks a lot sir I really appreciate your assistance.
So maybe the truth is somewhere in the middle of the road .
Thanks again
My kind regards
Much love from Athens Greece
Do you sand between coats?
I sand between all but the last four coats.
I am confused by you statement that one tablespoon to two cups (retarder to finish) is a 10% mix, One cup is 16 tablespoons isn't it? So two cups would be 32 tablespoons and the mix would be 32:1 or about three percent, another way to say it is that one ounce is equal to two tablespoons. So, 2 cups equals 16 ounces which equals 32 table spoon. Am I missing something?
Why not use an oil based paint and clear coat then?
Go for it. Have fun!
18-24°C if anyone is not used to Fahrenheit.
@Nik Reynolds
I'm very fond of the metric system, and for temperature I prefer Kelvin. There is one upside to Fahrenheit and that is in the increments. So it can be helpful when cooking for example. Whatever one grew up with is more convenient. In the end it is all in metric and it's converted back to imperial.
So you like the Crystallac better than Solarez?
I like them both for different reasons. Solarez cures faster, while Crystalac buffs out nicer.
Have you tried to use the solarez as an initial build and then finish with a topcoat of the Crystallac? Do you think that would work?
If spraying water based clear coat is such a hassle, why not just use oil? Legit question, not trying to be fighty.
Water-based has no odor and can't burst into flames. It really isn't a hassle once you dial it in.
"From the Luthiers Workbench"? Really?
Why not?