How to Build a Thick (Deep) Clear Coat
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2024
- This video is all about clear coat and how to build it up nice and thick when you need to. You won't always need to or want to, but when you do, this should help you to identify what products to use and how to use them.
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Your channel deserves so much more attention. Its one of the most informative when it comes to painting guitars.
Thanks. I’m glad you’ve found it helpful.
@@BradAngove Guitars may be your 'thing' but like you I branch out to lots of interesting art (computer cases through to canvases etc) and your approach to teaching from first principles is very engaging.
Thanks Michael
Oh my, I'm embarrassed to say that I never even picked up the can of glitter clear because I thought it had glitter in it. So now I can't get to Home Depot fast enough because it seems to be the clear I've been wanting. Thanks for this info!
Cheers. Enjoy haha.
Dammit - same - I thought it had the glitter IN the can.
I may use it now - I have a project with multiple taped off layers on it that will take a heap of filling.
You are not alone
Frankie Chan I read it is for “interior” only.
Same!! Tomorrow is GLITTER CLEAR shopping day. I guess I'll do 2 coats, wait a whole week, scuff and then 2 more coats. Wait another week and wet sand with the high grits for the big shine.
A lot of great info, thanks. I'm going to glitter & clear my first kit.
Excellent video, with some great information and tips!
Your vids are hands down the best. I've learned so much and done so well people are asking me to paint their guitars as well. Thanks Brad!!!
That’s awesome to hear!
Thank you! That was the information on clear coat I was looking for!
Glad it was helpful!
Hey man, your video tutorials are AWESOME! Really great vibe in all your videos, you seem like a very chill guy :) I followed your tips and tricks and am getting pretty nice results on my 3d printed projects by just using spray cans :) Thanks man!!
Thanks. I’m glad you’re finding the videos helpful.
Brad, I've watched many of your video's and they all have been helpful thank you!
Cheers Patrick
Super cool tip brad.
I always learn something from each of your videos. keep up the good work Brad!
Thanks Bill!
So helpful. Thx again brother😎🙏✌️🎸
This is a SUPER useful video. Thanks, Brad. :)
Thanks. I’m glad to hear that.
This is the video I should have watched BEFORE I made every single mistake you brought up and had to strip it down and start over. Good to know where I went wrong and not to repeat my mistakes. Thanks Brad.
Glad I could help. Sorry it wasn’t soon enough.
Brad - Thank you for all your videos. Just ran into this video...I'm going to be using Glitter Clear under 2K to further level some imperfections and bury vinyl decals on a motorcycle tank I'm doing!
Perfectly explained !
Very helpful and informative video. Thanks
Thank you Wesley
Great info, thanks.
So informative. Thanks heaps for this one. 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you. Answered all my questions.
Glad to hear it
That was a very clear explanation!
Thank you
Good info, thanks
Great info I really need right now, hahaa! Thanks, Brad.
Glad I could help
Great tips!
Thanks Brian
Excellent video !!
Thank you Terry!
I'm a finisher by trade in the millwork/cabinetry industry... not a guitar player but I love watching your rattle can skills on these videos, it is super cool to watch, heck I might have to pick up a guitar kit just to do some tests of my own... subbed
Thanks Alec!
Hi Brad, this is an important topic. As I have said before, I'm not into guitars, but love your paint technics and think you're an extremely talented guy. I've always had problems with the spray paints running or cracking. As you have stressed, it's all about taking the time, not rushing and doing it right. You're very fortunate to be working at something that compliments who you are.
Thank you David. I did get quite lucky with this hobby/side job.
Hi Brad, I'm a not too long viewer of you channel as well as many more guitar building channels ans am in the process of starting my own build. I've taken a page out of the Texas Toast book and am doing a cloth covered body and head stock on a really cheap guitar I baught just for the purpose of the mod/upgrade/build I had in mind I got a Starcaster By Fender,,you know that sub $100 when new Chinese built Strat thing,,lol well with the cloth covered body we get the need for a really thick clear coat, ( also 3 quad rail humbuckers and extra pots and switches to control it all plus other tricks too)) ...and I know how now after watching yous and others as to how to get a nice thick hard shell of clear on the guitar but I also want to include some glitter sparsely scattered throughout the finish like in every coat and various colors in each but havent come up with a good method of getting an even however sparsely scattered field of glitter throughout each coat to enhance it for a kind of 3-D effect and a really deep water look or as in this case a deep space look, sort of like the custom multi-coat lacquer paint jobs of the classic hot rod era when it was normal to have up to 12-20 hand rubbed coats of clear color and maybe 6-8 coats of clear over it all hand rubbed ...Yea they put a lot of work into those beautiful show finishes,..getting the glitter not quite even each time to give a natural looking depth is what ai'm after but heed a way to get it onto the guitar without making a total mess in the process is the trick I need to figure out..I was thinking of doing a test plate to get a feel of the paint can and the coverage i can expect from it. as well ae susing out a good way of getting glitter and glow-in-the-dark stuff to work the way I want it to and come out glossy and deep looking...have you ever tried this little trick in any of your builds as yet and if so what did you figure out for the glitter controlled and less messy thing... I guess its down to practice to try to get better if not quite perfect. lol well I know I tend to be long winded or extremely verbose typing as here,,,But hey ,,,thats just me!! and yes I'm the same in person,,A motor mouth motor head and guitad freak...I've got so much stuff crammed into my head that it tends to leak out all over the place and usually out from my mouth in person and onto the page typing or writing any time I get started I sometimes don't know when or where to end,,,,well anyway its not quite started because i wanted to have all the parts and materials for completion of the build before i started so I didn't have anything keeping me from my goal of a cool and versatile guitar...I didn't say beautiful because of that in the eye of the beholder thing ...so it remains to be seen and marveled at...that is when I get finished I have the electronics already figured out and mostly wired up on a prototype extended pick guard to accommodate all the extra pots and switches and buttons to control it all make all kinds of sounds. .I still needed a few parts as i said and a few more materials from Home Depot tight bond and the multiple cans of clear coat a few other odds and ends and bits and bobs to get everything I need.. and this is really my very first ever build..yeh I know that thing about biting off more than i can chew but as a mechanic by trade and carpenter by experience working with my step-dad from age 12 till about 20 I have a good grasp of woodworking and electronics it's the ultra custom finish that I may have a problem with, But as usual I'll figure out a solution to whatever I come across and get it finish..i like to have all my little duckies in a nice neat little pow before we go on this journey og guitar building madness... but this is only the first of wuite a few builds Ive planned..the rest won't be as involved but just as unique and cool ..I hope..and a scratch build of a very different design and construction technique.. more on that much later,,still in the design stages at present..it all in my head as yet and sometimes It never gets onto paper even when its built already I have a knack for going from concept to completion without ever committing it to paper at all.. simple things like a speaker cabinet/pedestal for my entertainment center in the '80's it measured h:18" X W:48" X D: 20" center devider seperating the twin cabs for 15" woofers and 6X9 5-way speakers hooked up the the stereo system..for better bass and clearer highs..but that is only a small example of what I'm capable of,, Oh did I mention that I'm old enough to have retired and am retired as of earlier this year.. so i have all the time i want to come up with all kinds of weirf and wonderful builds just need to get myself motivated.. I tend to be a little lazy at times ..lol but when I get started I don't like to stop till I get finished with whatever I'm doing,, I just need to kick myself into gear then it's On for real.. HMMM did i go a bit far?? naaah just right to get this thing started as soon as the perts I just ordered from Amazon arrive in the next couple of weeks,,,this damned COVID=19 Is slowing everything down to a slow crawl... But at least most things get here when they say they will..Iff ther don't get sent back judt before the get delivered for so called damage and I have to re=order it to get it ..but it got here in half the time the second time around,,then I had to disassemble the old broken one and assemble the new one..Oh this was a steel futon frame to replace the odl worn out and broke hinged one I had for over 7 years and had modified to strengthen a couple of different times and applied the mods to the new ont to prevent a nother needed replacement any time soon. no more sags and fewer squeaks now,,,,lol sorry had an issue with it getting all the way to Bradenton Fl. from arisona only to be sent back as "damaged in trsnsit" and i called reordered and it came in 4 days when the original took almost 2 weeks just to get here and be sent back at almost here jsut in the depot in my city and but//but back it boes but at least the "new" one made it in a 1/4 of the time..the first one took and half the time they said it would..I still had to brake out the tools and do a sull tear down and assemble the new one all in under 2 hrs thay were virtually identical in cunstruction and hardware..so even the parts were 95% the same the only diff was the arm assembly diff shape... damn I did it Yet again you see what I mean about motor mouth with my head so crammed full of stuff that it leaks out all over the place... damn why do ai go off on a tangent so often It irks even me to not end...sorry for my ultra extreme verbosity running off at the mouth or in this case the keyboard fingers just blazing away across the keys with wild abandon and never mind the fact of arthritis and carpal tunnel teling my finger to give it up before the cramp up totally and for ever,,, see that ...OOPS I did it again OK I'm done for now..before i go off on another half assed tirade,,,,,sorry again for thew over active fingers attached to an overstuffed brain....before i leak all over you again se ya andd have a better one thanls tor the ingo on clear coat and getting it thicker,,, just the integration of the glitter the way i want it is the issue,,Yep I remember what I'm here for in the first place i just wander a bit in my old age (62 yo) old fart married to an old tart,,,,lol but anyway see ya,,,,bye for good till next time,,,lmao..Oh I'm Kenny ha ha ha later
Wow! Where was this video 8 months ago when I started to troubleshoot thick clear coats for skulls I hand carve. I was running into an issue with it being not flat so I decided to try spray.... I tried everything except the last one you mention.... which happens to be my answer I'm pretty sure!! Lol glitter sealer... go figure! I also always get drawn to this can and didn't realize it wasn't even actual glitter. Awesome info in this video! thanks so much.
Glad I could help
I’m using an old athletic shirt ( one of the ones that don’t cause lint, the synthetic fabric) with full strength minwax oil base gloss polyurethane. It’s taking some time but with each coat I’m happier
Excellent video. Persuaded me to stick with Tung oil.
Haha glad to hear it.
I love the fact that you're open for questions on THIS video title, ESPECIALLY inside the "crackle" series. So here's my dilemma: on one hand we know that building a thick layer of clear coat requires multiple sessions, therefore you can no longer rely on chemical adhesion, but have to scuff and create mechanical adhesion. But question is how on Earth do you do that when you have a textured crackle effect underneath, making those crater-like ridges? Cause you cannot put on more than 3-4 coats per session, which is still thin enough so that when u scuff it down for the next layers, you'll damage all those sharp edges of the crackle itself. On top of that, you will not fully hit the "pits" of the crackle, since the high points will prevent you from doing so. Come to think of it, the most dangerous one is the first time you apply the clear on top of the crackle, since you have to let the crackle cure but you need adhesion for the first layer of clear. So how what do you do? Thank you, Brad!!!
the crackle paint isn’t gloss and with the cracking it has enough texture that I didn’t feel it was necessary to sand it. That’s the risky one, but it has worked for me consistently so far.
After that it gets much easier. You can block sand to start with to flatten things out somewhat, and then go in with some scotch brute to finish off and get all those valleys scuffed up. it is flexible enough to make it into the grooves no problem.
Good video!
Thanks Blake!
Like that texture
The one that I tried that seemed to work out well is, Krylon Triple-Thick Crystal Clear Glaze. I sprayed it over stained wood and it turned out great.
Excellent. I’m glad it worked out for you.
I've looked and looked to find the video on how you got the crackle finish. I love the look, very unique.
That one is coming out soon.
@@BradAngove I can't wait to see that one!
Nice video! Im looking for a couple different clear finishes, one is a rubber/silk feel and the other is a stick/tacky feel. Will be using spray guns and air brushes. Iv came across a triple glaze spray can i like how it was a thick finish but it was slick.
Sounds like you’re looking for one of those plasti-dip style clears.
Hi Brad, I'm using SprayMax 2K lacquer, cheers.
That omni is good stuff🤟 and didn't cost as much as other 2 part clears. Buffs out good.
Duracylic 468 is great too but it doesn't have a hardener
Nice. I haven’t tried the duracoat.
I've had really good results with General Finished water based polyurethane. I've done Brush on, which is painfully tedious, but in and apartment, it's non toxic, so it was a good option. I've used my gun setup. Less tedious, but still a bit tedious with the scuff sand between coats.
Still, water white is nice, and this stuff dry sands and polishes up very nicely. It's about 30 bucks for quart, which will do two and maybe 3 guitars. Over water based acrylic, not a bad, cheap option.
I think the take away is, solvent based is less work, but might not be the best option if you want a good, thick finish that looks fantastic.
Thanks Shayne. Good info.
@@BradAngove all because I watched your videos
While not an ideal situation, ive had good success refrigerating 2k clear if i needed an extra day over the recommended shelf life once activated
Alright, time to get the crackle paint and some glitter clear and see what I can do haha
Great video....you answered the reason why three of my earliest builds finishes cracked and convinced me to not overlook the glitter clear. What are you thoughts on epoxy for a nice clear finish (asking for a friend)?
Epoxy is nice. It creates a thick finish, but I haven’t really used it on guitars.
I personally prefer the spraymax 2k option. You're right it's not cheap, but after all if you go cheap you risk to ruin weeks of work.
For the ones who can, spraying two guitars at the same time is a good way not to waste the paint and do only two or three coats each.
As usual, great video, thanks Brad
I was thinking if you're serious about building guitars, you can mitigate the cost a little with this option by buying a couple cans and using one over two or three guitars at a time, then the second or third can in subsequent sessions to make sure you get use of it all.
^yay for run on sentences.
Yes, that’s definitely a good option. Last time I cracked one of those cans I had a guitar to spray and part of a car haha.
Spraymax also has 250 ml cans. These will go for about 3 layers on a guitar body.
@@BradAngove Question along the same topic: If you were to run out of 2k because of its 48 hr potlife, can that glitter clear be substituted for the buildup after? I am doing multiple guitars, so the idea of spanning a can over two is brilliant.
I’d do it the other way around. Build up a bit with the glitter clear, then let that dry for a few weeks and sand lightly. Then finish off with the 2K.
AhA! I am the first one to comment! LOL.
So, what you're telling me is the Les Paul cracked because I used too much Catalyzed Lacquer? Hmmm, maybe, I did wonder about that but I have used more than that and not had an issue before. On my Les Paul's I like to get that same coat that Gibson gets, I watched a video a few years ago and they were saying that Gibson puts 26 coats on their guitars, but when I have watched them do it at the Gibson shop they seem to only put one thick coat on.
As you know Brad I tried the wipe on poly on that white SG, yeah, it's now looking like a 1987 White Gibson SG cause it sure is yelluh!! Lol. I am going to sand that back off and just use the cat. lacquer (Nitro I guess) I am also re-re-finishing that Les Paul this time to white and with less nitro lol. I really like the Mohawk stuff, and I am getting away from using poly as it seems most people I know who play guitar act like a poly finish to them is like garlic to a vampire lol. OK, so using water based stain to get my color, using a spray nitro like the Mohawk stuff, that's OK to use right? And also regular oil based stain I can use nitro on as well?
It might have been from a number of things, but having a very thick nitro finish increases the chances of that cracking occurring. Gibson apparently used to use lots of coats. I’m not sure how they had that process setup. Certainly with temperature and humidity control I would think. If you’re seeing them doing thick coats now it may be poly. They use that on many of their guitars now from what I understand.
Hi Brad great video once again , i wish i watched this before trying to clear coat my new diy guitar body,I tried using a polyester surfboard resin which is very clear ,to seal a very nice paint scheme i came up with using Rit dye to color stain the bare wood first then purple spray paint on the edges, and finally i laid expanded metal screen over the stained area, and lightly shot over that with candy grape to give the stain ghost diamonds , i tried at first to spray a clear coat on , but it wasn't adhering very well , and i had tested the psr on piece of wood a day earlier by just pouring over the wood, and spreading it on , and it looked great the next day , so i tried it on the guitar but it started gelling on me before I could get a complete coat , and there's bumps , ands runs everywhere , but very clear , and glossy , any tips on how fix this now , so it looks smooth so i can buff , and polish it out ? Thank you in advance for any tips !
Polyester is very hard stuff and dries crazy fast, so sometimes that happens. The only really way to flatten it out is to level sand it and then you can go through the polishing process.
Would shellac be a product you'd consider "buildable"? Would glitter paint be a good choice to build over a decal to kill the edges?
I’m about to clear mine using rustoleum semigloss rattle cans.
Brad. You are so knowledgeable! My question is this, Can I build up my clear with graphics with the glitter coat, and finish up with spray max 2k? TIA!
Yes, I’ve used those together before.
You are a wealth of information! I stay up late and watch your videos and have learned so much! I’m a newbie to this. My problem is I’ve painted a design using paint pens and acrylic paint. ( btw, I loved the skull you painted on the white guitar) I’ve had trouble with a previous guitar with acrylic designs when it came time to level sand. I sanded with 3 levels of grit and still couldn’t get it level sanding thru the finish. It looked awful... so, in your opinion, should I use the glitter clear? Will it provide me with enough thickness so I can level sand and get that glass finish? Thanks!
It should help build up a bit quicker. You could do it with the normal clear, it would just take a few extra coats, so you don’t quite sand level in between sessions until you have lots on there.
Hi Brad, perfect timing with this video! I've just done a burn job on mine current build and wondering how to level the charred areas as flat as I can. I don't think it's doable but if you have any idea, let me know. Cheers dude, love your content
You may want to consider doing a bit of an epoxy fill.
@@BradAngove cheers Brad I have a little bit left from a previous project
Is this your business premises Brad? Guitar manufacture and restoration? Your garage looks like an interesting place to explore haha.
So difficult in the UK to find a wipe on finish say polly for instance its expensive around £45. So if I go wipe on its tru oil all day long. For a clear coat then I go automotive finishes 2k as it's cheap and easy to apply ( yes you need a spray gun) if its say adding a new decal to a headstock I just use spray cans but make sure your buying the correct ones.
@@ericl6460 I've made it before 50/50 mix that isn't the problem but a lot of varnish has a slight colour to it.
Hi Brad. Very nice and informative video.
I put 4 layers of 2K automotive clear coat over a sparlkle finish 2 days ago. I plan to build up 3 or 4 more coats.
Right know I'd say I've got some kind of heavy orange peel.
Would you try to level already before spraying more coats or would you just scuff and level sand only at the end ?
Thanks
I would try to partially leave now. The closer you get now, the easier it will be later. You just need to avoid sanding through.
@@BradAngove Thanks Brad.
The 2k is still what I go for. Sure it's a bit pricier but it's by far better imo, short of buying a gun and mixing my clears myself.
Even if you’re mixing your own clears you would probably use something very similar to the 2k.
Thanks Brad. I am about to order a pricey kit and want a thick but not crazy thick. Have you tried the the new solarez? I can't think of the name but it's the new craze, but I have heard of some problems. By the way. You are getting much better on guitar.
I actually haven’t tried any of the solarez stuff, although I’ve heard good things about it.
Another great video man. How many coats of the rustoleum glitter clear can I apply between scuffs.
No more than 4.
@@BradAngove Thank you sir.
What about something like Rustoleum crystal clear enamel clear coat? - darn this was meant to be on the lacquer video! Brilliant tutorials. Thanks
Same concepts apply as outlined in this video.
Spectacular video!
Overwhelming wealth of information!
Thank,you! Just in time for the clear coat on my spalted les paul! 🤘😎🤘
Ps, ULTIMATE SG BUILD??? Hint, hint, know what I mean? 😂😂😂😂
Oh, I see now. You’re asking about the build because you’re waiting for it haha. It’s going up right after the aluminum top series is finished.
@@BradAngove YES! 😋😁😂
I have that kit in my solo cart.....just haven't pulled the trigger on it yet......I'm almost ready.
The Spalted Les Paul has been flattened and is ready for the final gloss coats.
Then gotta get the courage up to spray the burst.....
How can I post a picture for you?
You can send me a photo on Facebook or on Instagram using the links in the video description.
@@BradAngove sorry, i dont do Facebook or Instagram. 😕
Ok, then where do you post photos?
Hey, so the last option you suggested, the glitter clear. Is this something that can be polished/burnished afterwards? Because the guitar I’m planning on doing I want to stain, apply de-waxed shellac then a polyurethane or something with a fairly thick gloss finish. Thanks for your help.
Yes, it can be.
Would it be possible or work to bury a vinyl sticker/decal into lacquer. I know thats how water slide decals kind of work so would it also work to put the stickers onto a guitar body and then bury them under a thick finish?
Yes, that’s definitely possible.
Your channel has been super helpful. I've got a new project where I'll be applying vinyl decals to a freshly painted body. Should I sand the painted body to a shine, before applying the decals? Do you recommend the Glitter Clear over Duplicolor Perfect Match to bury graphics. Can I apply 2K over the glitter clear or is that not necessary. Thanks in advance.
If you’re clear coating over the paint I would sand it before doing so. If not I wouldn’t. Vinyl sticks fine to gloss.
If you’re going to be using 2K there should be no need for the glitter clear.
Got a plastic steering wheel that has been clear-coated from the factory. What would you recommend I use, AT HOME, to add a few more coats of clear? Thanks a million!
Not sure. I guess I would go with the 2K clear probably, but make sure follow the steps from my video on how to paint plastic parts properly.
Hey, Mr.Bruce Wayne Angove, whats the difference between clear and lightfast clear coat? Will Mohawk (for wood finishes) clear gloss pre-cat Lacqcuer work on thermoplastic acrylic resin type spray cans? Thanks
Lightfast essentially just means uv resistant. It doesn’t really yellow, and should help avoid fading of the paint underneath.
I have no idea on your second question. I’m not even familiar with that type of spray.
-- Heads up for shellac, avoid going thick in one application with porous wood. It'll develop bubbles that don't sand or re-coat very well. For wood that's sat for a long time (2+ years), you're better off with a bunch of 1.5lb cut coats at a steady rate with a linen applicator.
-- I've used Rustoleum 2X. It's a decent product, but not for outdoors, the UV kills it. Wet but not heavy coats do well with a 3 day cure.
-- Water based polyurethane like Varathane aluminum oxide floor finish can go on relatively thick, but not if it's super milky. It dries fast enough, that I think on a coats-per-day basis, it's one of the fastest without getting into epoxy.
-- I've had good results with blended Tung oil and spar urethane. Add the Tung oil until you get the chatoyance it's famous for. Let it cure a day or two. Run a wet but not heavy coat of spar urethane over the top. Great for exterior doors. Gives you a different depth than straight poly.
-- Thick polyurethane becomes gummy. A steady wet swipe with a saturated foam pad is the thickest you'd ever want to go.
-- Truck bed coatings are fierce. I normally don't care about chemical smells, but those are on-par with polyester resin for 48 hours.
Wow, so I should wait a week before wet sanding the 3 coats of clear I put on my model rocket yesterday?! I'm using the rustoleum (non glitter clear, which I had no idea existed. Glad you brought it up) in the video. Come to think of it, I'm not even sure what a good starting grit is. 600? I don't need to go too crazy.
Ya, give it a week and then sand with 800 grit before adding more clear if that’s what you’re planning on doing.
Brad Angove So after the initial 3 coats of clear and a week dry time and before doing more clear coats, do I lightly scuff with 800, or sand enough to remove the orange peel? Thanks for all the great info...
Either is an option. you can sand flat, or just scuff and keep going.
I bin refinishing guitars for 2 year now. My failure rate is almost 100%. I conscientiously go through the detailed process to achieve a beautiful hi gloss finish. BUT. I'm always shot down when the handling involved in the Meguiars compound step results in horrible etchings into the finish. Caused by simply laying the guitar body on a blanket to do the work. I finally learned from this tutorial that my self inflicted dilemma is caused by 4 and even 5 coats of Rust-Oleum 2X gloss clear sprayed on in one session. Allowing about 20 to 30 minutes tween coats. I'm confident now that my refinishing hobby is salvaged. But I tell you, I am p.o. at Rustoleum and at the countless tutorials that do not warn us about the seriuos pitfall of too much too soon clearcoat. Or paint for that matter. None say "spray on two coats, wait a week, sand, spray 2 more coats, or else this will happen". They just say and demonstrate that they're spraying on 4 and 5 coats. So as a greener I do it and screw it. Up. But all that's in the past as of watching this video. I thank you sincerely for stopping me from abandoning my passion for guitars because of something so easily done better. Correctly.
I’m glad I could help!
can the spray max 2k be used with montana cans gold series? I painted a guitar about a year ago and rushed it, unfortunately, and did everything from seal to clear coat within 24 hours. A week later i noticed whenever i left it on a foam stand it would leave impressions in it. Was I just impatient?
yes, the 2k can go over Montana gold. I have a similar 2k clear on this crackle guitar.
Those acrylics take several weeks to harden. Even then they sometimes get impressions from foam. So does nitrocellulose lacquer.
Brad, I read somewhere it’s a good idea to clear the top coat and wet sand before taping and applying design (flames, drawings etc.) What are your thoughts?
Also, is it ok to remove the tape after the clear? Thanks much.
Yes, that’s a good idea. The clear coat protects the paint underneath and is often less likely to be damaged by the tape. It also makes it easier to fix if there’s a mistake with your design work.
The Krylon Triple-Thick-Glaze and the Rustoleum glitter clear are ones you want to put on thin. The Krylon Triple-Thick-Glaze can stay soft for months and may be soft even a year later if it is too thick. You can make it extremely clear and get the bubbles out by using a heat gun or torch but heat will not cure it, only time...
Yikes. That’s probably the top drying and trapping in the solvents below. I generally avoid krylon. I never seem to have any luck with it.
What is the absolute hardest clear coat that can be applied and useful for a table top or something I've airbrushed that needs a very robust finish? I'm mainly experienced with 2k Autootive clears and some of the createx products (curently their UVLS which I'm not a super big fan of).
2K automotive clears are generally a decent bet. Alternatively, consider an epoxy coat or a 2K polyester. The polyester finishes are absurdly durable.
Would the Rustoleum glitter clear bond well over top a duplicolor paint?
I’m not sure
If I already started the process and already painted it and at this point already gave it 1 or 2 Coats of lacquer, can I lightly sand that and use a different type of clear coat finish like enamel or something like that on top of the lacquer?
If you let it dry for a few weeks you can throw some poly on top.
Love the channel Brad.
Quick question. Will the glitter clear coat work well with water based stains?
I'm getting ready to do a DIY Les Paul kit with flame maple and want to use water based for the color to preserve the wood grain.
Again, love watching the channel, keep up the good work.
Give the water based stuff two weeks to dry before you use it and it should be ok.
@@BradAngove Thats good info right there. Thank you. And thank you for such a prompt reply.
@@BradAngove Do you have to use any grain sealer or sanding sealer in this procedure?
Not necessarily. The clear should play essentially the same role as a sealer.
Hi Brad,
I have a project guitar and I had applied several coats of spray gloss varnish to the body over the course of a week. My problem now is that the finish is very sticky and my arm and t-shirts stick to it which impacts my playing.
I tried using a white spirit to remove they stickiness as per someone's guidance online, but that didn't do anything.
Do you have any advice for me?
Cheers from England
How long has it been on there?
I plan to paint with general finishes water-based acrylic milk paint, then go to town with some glitter, then build up enough clear to sand/polish for a (hopefully) nice mirror-ish gloss.
How long do I need to let that milk-paint sit before I start building clear coats on top of it? I'll follow the 3 coats and wait a week for each layer of depth in the clear... But do I need to give the milk-paint a day or a week to firm up before clear-coating?
I’d take a look at the can. It depends a bit on atmospheric conditions too, but I’d usual give that type of finish a couple days.
@@BradAngove You, good sir, are a gift to this world. Haha, thanks for response!
I hope I was able to help.
Hey Brad, I'm trying to get a mirror smooth gloss finish on an Esquire project that I did a ceruse finish on. I wire brushed the grain, sprayed gunmetal metallic, and now I'm building clear with the Rustoleum Universal Clear (the kind with the weird nozzle top). I've been doing like you said, 3-4 coats, dry a couple days, wet sand, repeat. It's smoothing out, and I'm getting happier with how it looks. Question is: should I keep going with the same product, or could I go with the Glitter Clear to get faster/heavier build up? They're both Rustoleum products, but I'm not sure about chemical makeup & compatibility.
Stick with what you’ve been doing so you don’t risk a reaction. They aren’t the same thing.
@@BradAngove Thanks for the quick reply! I'll keep doing more of the same!
So if I am wanting an extremely thick Gibson type Gloss finish, Should I go at it with a Poly based finish? also if I buy a gun, would it work better at getting me a thick even coat faster and smoother than I would with a rattle can?
Some Gibsons use poly and some use lacquer. The spray gun will help do it faster if you are able to use it properly.
@@BradAngove appreciate the help! when you say faster, do you mean in terms of application speeds or drying times?
Hi Brad,
Thank you as always for taking the time to make your videos.
I have a question that possibly you can answer or give a suggestion to. I have an import tele body that has a thick gloss finish over wood, pretty sure a poly finish. Actually a nice looking solid body butternut color wood. It's basically flawless but there was a crack in the finish on the end a few inches from the strap pin that went down to the wood & the wood was cracked slightly.
The crack was sanded down and filled and no coating has been applied yet. Don't really want to paint the body or strip it down and start over but the patched crack is pretty ugly and ruins the aesthetics of the guitar. I can poly over the repair but again it will be ugly. Not sure a sunburst could be applied over the existing poly. A vinyl decal artfully done is one possibility if the decal(s) could be poly'd over without making it too hacked. Painting a 'racing stripe" may be an option. Again just looing for input on applying something over a portion of the existing gloss poly without turning it into a total hack job....
Thanks again,
Robbie
Colorado
What was it patched with? Normally I would simply suggest patching it up with some super glue and filling it to match the finish.
@@BradAngove Hi Brad,
Thank you. The crack went down into the wood more than 1/8" so I sanded out the crack & it's a gouge about 1 1/2" long & 1/4" wide.
Currently has a wood filler so it's looking like a plan 'B'. Really no way to match the amber/tan-ish clear gloss finish even if there was no wood filler applied. The super glue sounds like a fix if I had not of messed with it but with a crack in the wood, it would have still been an issue.
I can get the patch poly'd & sanded then sealed to return it to form. Again at this point leaning to duplicolor 'racing stripe', touching up, putting back together & moving on.
Thank you again for taking the time with me, many of us out there your videos are top notch...
R
The racing stripe makes sense. That would definitely allow you to hide the flaw.
@@BradAngove Hi Brad, Again thank you for all you do. I actually use a lot of your tips. I was going to do the racing stripe to hide the flaw but saw your video on the "flame" stencil and did that to great effect. Other than a few minor flaws came out great.
If you don't mind me asking - I used Duplicolor black spray. It is on top of a import gloss poly. My question is to clear coat it what is your opinion on Behlen 'Finisher's Choice Clear (m102-0540) over the Duplicolor & Poly finish? On hand I have it, also Wipe On Poly & Crystalac Clear Coat.
Thank you when you have time. Used your tip on removing "Tune-o-Matic" posts too...
Robbie in Colorado
Hi Robbie. The behlen is good, but I haven’t tried it over the duplicolor. If you let it dry long enough, that or the crystalac should work fine. I wouldn’t use the wipe on poly on that.
Hi, I've sprayed one can of SprayMax lacquer on my guitar, it's been a few days and it's hard to the touch, can I resume spraying with SprayMax lacquer without sanding, cheers.
No; you need to sand.
@@BradAngove thank you.
What about shellac as a thick layer, then wipe-on poly?
You can use shellac as a sealer before the poly.
Hey Brad, your channel has been super helpful! Quick question for you: I'm refinishing a headstock to match the body of my guitar. The replacement Jackson logo is a thin vinyl decal but still thicker than a waterslide... would you recommend the Spraymax 2k or the Glitter Clear to bury that logo?
Either way, is my process: 4 coats w/ 10 min between, cure 1 week then sand (600-800? worried about burning through with only the initial 4 coats), then another 4 coats? Not sure how many total coats/sessions I should aim for to be able to finally flat sand, buff and polish. Any guidance would be most appreciated, sensei! :). Thanks in advance.
That process should work well, and either one of those clear coats will be just fine.
Depending I guess on what you’re using as paint for the refinish.
Thanks so much for the quick response! I thought I might take the guitar down to an auto shop with a spectrophotometer and ask them to mix up a little paint match. I’d assume that’s urethane? I’m also eyeing up “Rosso Corsa” red auto touch up paint as a backup plan.
It would probably be acrylic or urethane.
Do you know if you can use glitterseal over duplicolor's clearcoat to build up or would there be a problem between the 2 different finishes? I clearcoated the headless galaxy late last spring.
You should be able to go ahead and use it at this point.
@@BradAngove cool! Thanks, I thought it would be ok, but always best to check with the Master of the Craft first!
What are your thoughts on Spray can polyurethane? I plan on using the Minwax fast dry Poly spray can to finish my bass.
I have no objection to the stuff. Just beware it dries quickly but still takes a while to harden after.
@@BradAngove Patience is definitely a virtue in this process.
Indeed
For the glitter clear sealer, what would be the process? -3 coats a day and repeat? -or let cure after 3 coats and then sand and repeat? I'm applying vinyls to my guitar body and I would like to get a really thick finish so it appears like it's behind glass. Thanks!
Let cure after 3, sand lightly, and repeat.
Hey brad, you said in the video to build up thick coats with “ gloss” and then use the 2K clear? Do you means the gloss being the 2X clear and then use the 2K clear after the 2x is built up and cured? thanks for being great in your teachings in these videos.
No, if you’re using 2k then use the 2k gloss. All I was getting at was that if you’re using a matte finish and building up a bunch of coats you should do the building work with gloss (be it 2x or 2k), and then finish with matte to avoid an obscured or hazy finish.
Brad Angove - got it. Thank you greatly for the clarification.
Very informative as always. Brad I have a question. I have been using water based varathane triple coat clear in a spray can and it works great ... BUT .... Its become very difficult to find here locally. I picked up a quart or half gallon of the brush on triple coat clear with the intention of spraying it on but its too thick. Can it be reduced for spraying and if so what would I use as a reducer? Thanks in advance.
It can be reduced with water I believe, but it dries slowly.
Thanks for the reply Brad. I did some experimenting and discovered it seems best with alcohol. I used 50/50 water and alcohol since that's what I had on hand. Seems to work quite well. Still not as nice as the Varathane triple thick in a spray bomb but it does the trick none the less.
Glad it worked out
Should I do a wipe on poly for a thin coat on an acoustic kit? It will be going over black leather dye.
You can, but people sometimes try to avoid poly on acoustics because it hardens more than the typical acoustic finishes. It can alter the way the guitar resonates a bit more.
This is an excellent and often overlooked point about purely acoustic instruments. A drummer friend of mind had his djembe drum painted in 2k automotive paint to match his kit, and it completely changed the tonal quality - massively less resonant.
Good show... OK so the stain on the body is from artist oil paint and a solution of Poly and mineral spirits to obtain the sunburst result.... Then can catalyzed clear be painted over it? or will it lift or check???
I’ve never tried that specifically, but I would think that it should work as long as you let the stain dry 100% first.
@@BradAngove I guess I use japan dryer or something... also it the top of the guitar body is veneered... would I need to put a binding edge on it?
It’s up to you if you want to bind the edge. Another option is to just do opaque paint over the edge.
@@BradAngove There's no real necessity ... it's more like what ever the muse calls for at the time.... lol
I have a question, if I have a guitar layered with polyurethane spray can I spray it with lacquer? I'm not getting the finish I want.
You can if it has had time to dry 100% first.
@@BradAngove thanks man. I appreciate the feed back as always. Have a good one.
For the omni automotive finish. Can you catalyze enough for three coats or do you need to mix each coat individually?
You can do three or four. It doesn’t harden as fast as polyester. For clarity I’m talking about doing those coats 10-15 minutes apart.
@@BradAngove thanks man. Im starting over. I first used general finished precat lacquer and after 6 months it all fractured. Now im stripping and starting over. Happy new year.
Happy new year
I did have 2 questions for you.do you make guitar bodies?if so how much do you charge for them ?
Hi Paul. Depending on what you’re after I can make guitar bodies, but I generally don’t as a rule. Cost would depend on what it is you want exactly. Can you send me a direct message through my Instagram or Facebook links in the description to discuss?
Just did my first swirl finish...its actually the first time Ive painted a guitar as well. I am going to go with the glitter clear. What grit sandpaper would you suggest after I apply 3 or 4 coats of the glitter clear? And after sanding those...how many more coats would you suggest?
800 grit. And you will need to determine how many more you need based on how much texture there is to cover up.
@@BradAngove thank you for the info and quick response!
@@BradAngove sprayed first coat of clear but stopped. Have some dust/small lint that showed up. How should I go about fixing this issue before continuing with additional coats of clear?
Let it dry fully and sand it/pull it out.
I've been following your videos for a few years now and find them very interesting. But I wonder if it is possible to name the European equivalent of your products?
Because it is very difficult or even impossible for me in the Netherlands to follow the advice for the desired products that you give.
I see your point, but if you can’t find the European equivalent while in Europe, I’m not sure how I would find it while in North America.
Brad. I have now sprayed my first ever guitar with crackle. It turned out pretty nice but some orange peals here and there but i honestly dont care. My question is, do i need to polish if i have a crackle fininsh cuase in my logical brain you just polishing the black spots cause they are higher up than the crackles and thats not what you want right? I also read that you should not polish if you have some dust in it cause the it tends to schratch the surface. "The article said especially beginners."
Have you clear coated over it?
@@BradAngove Ohh didnt see this but yeah i did but i put crackle between. So now its epoxy beneeth/ crackle between/ 3 layers of 2k clear on top. I dont know if that epoxy is bad or what its for but it is a sealer right?
Yes, it can act as a sealer.
I want to do a blue glitter paint job like I did on my 72 Chevy Nova years ago when I was a teenager. I'm restoring a Fender Stratocaster the body only. When I did my car I did 14 coats of hand rubbed lacquer blue lacquer like an electric blue with very small glitter particles in it and then I did about four to six coats of clear. when I was finished it looked like I was looking into a swimming pool. it was deep like water smooth as glass and I could see the particles of glitter suspended in the paint it looked gorgeous. How could I do that with spray cans and a guitar? Could I do that with the Rustoleum clear coat that's meant to cover the glitter paint? Or would you recommend something else?
That should work fine. It won’t be quite the same as a hand rubbed finish, but it can certainly work.
Thanks for the quick reply. Would you just spray the blue and glitter and then the clear coat or if i do the blue and glitter, then three coats of clear, one thin light spray of glitter, then three more coats of clear. Would that make the glitter look suspended in the clear coat to give the finish more depth? Would you recommend the rustoleum glitter clear coat or would the k2 clear coat give better tougher results?
I would generally say the first of those options is best. Otherwise you will most likely just lose the depth achieved by the first few coats.
I find 2K clear more durable.
I would generally say the first of those options is best. Otherwise you will most likely just lose the depth achieved by the first few coats.
I find 2K clear more durable.
@@BradAngove thanks
Can you spray the 2k over the 2x?
I have before successfully.
When you say 4 layers then scuff. What kind of grit are we talking about? I was thinking of using like 600 for my spray can poly but what grit are you using?
I need this technique because I'm doing a blood splatter on a white background and the "blood" will be slightly elevated so I'm gonna need to use a deep clear coat to level things out at the end. Thanks in advance for any help.
Hopefully you respond before I just go at it lol
I usually go with 800 for that.
@@BradAngove okay thank you for the info. New to channel. Very informative thank you
This is on a bit of a tangent but I have painted a pick guard and head stock with a solid colour then a dusting of glitter. I'm waiting for the body to be ready for clear coating with 2 pack. Can I cover the pick guard and headstock with Rustoleum 2k to protect it in the interim? I also accidentally created an interesting crackle effect on the head stock - how do I send you a photo?
I don’t think rustoleum makes a 2K. They have a 2x product that’s just normal paint that purports to cover twice as much surface. You can use the Facebook or Instagram links in the description to send me a photo.
@@BradAngove Hi sorry I meant the 2x product. I will send you the photo.
I’ve found that the best I can find (in Italy) I’d Dupli-color “Cars". I assume it’s made for auto body work. I can put on a coat, wait 15 min. And do a second. Then wait 24 hours, sand, and repeat the process. Best I’ve found so far! My question is, have you heard of this paint? Have you used it?
Brad has a full video on using Dupli-color.
I’ve used it multiple times, love duplicolor
The Noose well ok then! 😀😀😀
Richard Perry
Great! I’ll try to find it!
@@westleywest7259 ruclips.net/video/1-Mw3CrYURc/видео.html
Is the RustOleum Glitter Clear the same as the RustOleum Triple thick Glaze Clear?
Thanks!!
God Bless!!
Jimmy in NC....
I think they’re very similar, but i haven’t used the triple thick glaze.
@@BradAngove I've not used it either I just thought it was what You're supposed to use with the glitter paint or other finishes You wanna encapsulate under Your clear until I saw what You used in this Video. Now I'm wondering which is the thickest. Try RustOleum Hammered Metal if You haven't already. Great looking high quality cheap Finish. Doesn't require Clear Coat or Buffing. About $6 per can.
Ya, I use the hammered stuff on some projects. It’s a cool finish. I get it by the quart sometimes and roll it onto larger items.
Couldn't you use minwax spray on polyurethane to build up a thick enough clear coat to sand and polish a crackle finish?
Eventually yes.
@@BradAngove So I'm doing a similar paint job to the one in the video.I don't want the texture of the crackle, I want a smooth factory-like finish. I found a couple of cans of the "glitter sealer" at Walmart. What kind of paint is it? A lacquer? Enamel? Can I use 3M swirl mark remover like I can with laquer finishes? How many cans, do you think, would it take to cover and polish a full bodied crackle texture on a pickgaurdless strat?