How I Level Sand And Buff The Finish On A Guitar
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2019
- My process for level sanding, polish sanding, and buffing a high gloss, mirror-like water-based topcoat on a guitar. Show your support! Visit www.eguitarplans.com/ and buy a plan. Or visit highline-custom-guitars-2.cre... and buy a shirt!
Crystalac Store: thecrystalacstore.com/collect...
3M 216U Fre-Cut Gold Sandpaper: www.stewmac.com/Materials_and...
Super Assilex K1,200: amzn.to/2zs2T4W
Super Assilex K1,500: amzn.to/349aqUj
Super Buflex K2,000: amzn.to/2zABgXb
Super Buflex K3,000: amzn.to/2NFDlcY
Mirka Abralon Assorted Pack: amzn.to/2HvzriY
Micro Mesh Assorted Pack: amzn.to/2NEsHmI 
Видеоклипы
I think I am fortunate to say I found this guitar for sale on reverb and scooped it up. Still in pristine condition! The finish has held up well, and the neck is UNBELIEVABLE!
This was an important lesson for all of us! I learn something new everytime I watch your shows, thank you!
Beautiful work and excellent video, thanks for your time and dedication!
You do a fantastic job instructing and explaining each step of the way. Thanks so much....
Excellent Chris, thank you very much for the info. I am finishing a water based acrylic finish on a guitar at the moment, so this has been a great help.
YOU ARE A GREAT GUY!
YOU ALL ARE VERY CORRECT AND WONDERFUL!
HUGE THANKS!!!
Nice work, it is a joy to watch a an artisan at work.
Your videos are thee best resource I've found online on guitar finishing! Thank you so much for sharing! I know there are plenty of people like me who enjoy seeing the professional/experienced process, as well as appreciate any pointers on alternatives for newer people like myself.
Timing is everything. I’m about to finish/buff a guitar. Thanks Chris.
Great videos and commentary. I'm in the business as a manufacturer rep now for 29 years. You are spot on in so many ways, especially on how to achieve best results with the finish application. Nice shop set up as well and nothing like building your own shop tools.
Great video, questions to follow!
Awesome and informative video. Thank you
Thank you for your thorough explanation !
Extremely informative video. I especially like the explanation into why you do each step. Thanks, very helpful
Glad you enjoyed it!
A true artisan expert
Beyond my scope
I would want to purchase one of his builds without hesitation
This is a damn good video. I really learned a lot. Thank you very much. Definitely subscribed!
Hello Mister, god job, beautiful finishing, I love red guitar,. Hi from France
thanks for being a great resource!
Excellent video. I'm at the buffing stage with my first refinish & this was very helpful.
Great to hear!
Thank you very much for your information. İt was great job!
Quality info ...as usual
That's pretty informative. Thanks
Thanks for the Info. I am just doing the top of my Les Paul.
Wow great video! You're really good a explains how to do things. And you take the time to explain why you do things. I really like videos like that for that you've earned a sub! Great looking guitar by the way!
Nice work man...! gonna use your method... Cheers...!
Excellent video and process
Thank u for sharing
Beautiful guitar finish
You have inspired me to improving my painting and finishing to a level that I never thought possible in a very short period of time. Bless you, for your patience. Keep up the excellent work.
great video, wish you had a close up of the guitar after buffing and when you complete guitar to see how it looks finished
I've never used the polish sanding trick but then again, I buff with 3 compounds not 2. Funny how we all do the same things but just a little bit different. I like that because it helps me to explore better/different techniques. Always looking to improve! Thanks Chris.
I think your method would be removing more than desired material during the buffing stage, Unless you apply the necessary amount to make-up the difference, which cuts (no pun intended) into the bottom line during tax season.
Thanks. very informative.
Awsome , thanks !
Yeah its pretty crazy how far water based paints are getting. My buddys father owns a pretty reputable custom car paint shop and and asked what it was he was using. Assuming to hear some new lacquer or enamel....when he said he switched everything over to water based and occasional alcohol in airbrush work. I was absolutely blown away that water was capable. And was half the price and far less likely to die from fumes lol.
Gonna go try... have to get something done
I’m not sure if this video makes me want to work harder on my finishes or buy a guitar from Highline...
Then you understand the video correctly! This style of marketing (showing yourself as the expert) is designed to do precisely that. You give away enough to show how brilliant you are while equipping others to encourage community.
So helpful
The fact I will never be patient enough to finish out a guitar body to the level of perfection with high gloss reminds me i have 3 unfinished guitars i need spray with flat paint and satin gloss.😋good work.
Excellent video and information. Could also please include links to the sanding block and large erasers you used in this video?
Awesome work. I really need to build one of those polishers!
Give us a vid on the making of your buffing wheel station!!! Love it...
ruclips.net/video/qHvHcbOtg3s/видео.html
@Highline Guitars. Finish looks great. I have 2 1970's Stratocasters to refinish. The easy one IMO will be the 75-76 Black Strat but the Tobacco Sunburst on a 1979 has me a bit nervous because I'm not sure if a couple of 40 something year old guitars should end up with satin or gloss finishes.......
Thanks for the recommendation for the Super Assilex. I've been looking for a replacement for the 3M flexible sanding sheets since they discontinued them, and this looks like it may be similar. I live and die by those sanding sheets.
According to the 3M website, Flexible Hookit 270J has not been discontinued. Only the trial pack was discontinued. The individual sheets are still available.
There are so important what you teach us. Thank you so much!!!! Is it possible to have this shiny result without using water or machine?
Love your videos. I’m in the middle of finishing a Chinese knock off kit and it looks like I may have level sanded through a couple of places on the edges. I used Keda dye and Solarez. Looks great but I think I may need a few more coats of Solarez. My question is, how do I fix the spots where there appears to be no more dye? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
My advice .... listen to this guy ! He's totally on it.
Excellent video. Those are very helpful. Do you sand the edges directly, or do you leave a thin line until the buffer? If you do sand the edges, do you go over the edge in your quarter or do you go along the whole edge? I'm really scared of those edges.
a year ago i did something stupid to my favorite studio guitar and got full of scratches; your buffing advice really help to restore her finish even if it's not perfect it's like new. Keep it up.
i build guitars as a hobby and i wanted to ask is car polishing compounds (cause compounds for epoxy are pretty rare to find over here) a viableway to buff a finish?
Got any tips for a cerused finish? The ash was grain filled but despite sealer, fill, sealer, and 13 light coats of nitro, you can still feel the grain. I imagine it is a delicate wet sand. It has a fairly shiny finish with very little orange peel except for the maple neck. As it stands, I may just start with 600 and work my way to 12 or 1500 then put it through some heat and a freezer to check the finish- then a final buffing.
I really enjoyed that. Seems I’ve been a bit all over the place with my method. What do you consider water based clear coats and are they as tough as oil based or polyurethane. I’m a bit confused about all the different finishes eg: Polyurethane, polyester, acrylic etc?
Thanks 🙏
Can I send you one of my guitars so you can do this!?!? That would be amazing fantastic work!
Thanks.
You need at minimum 2000 grit if you are going to buff without a dedicated machine. I use wet and dry for sanding but you need to make sure water does not get into the wood meaning all parts need to temporarily sealed. For example any scew holes otherwise the wood will expand in those areas and then contract when it dries which will slightly warp your totally flat fimish.
I love how the intro is heavy AF, I expected some tatted up guy but then its you! LOL!
I think I would personally mask off the sharper edges with fine line tape or thin masking tape. The lacquers sit lighter on those areas and I wouldn't want to burn through to the base. But that's just what I'd do.
I like all my little scratches and nicks, lol..
But I would like to wax and polish though..I have a Tele, a Strat, and a les Paul that I need to do
Bob Odenkirk's older brother got some skills 👍
Best. Compliment. Ever.
Thank you for your instructive videos. I have access to a buffer but the polishing compound may be a few years old. Does it go bad. It’s from a company called Menzerna out of Germany.
I don't think it goes bad. Better ask them.
Looks good from far away but needed a closeup shot just one time?
I have an early G&L S-500 that has a polyester finish (glossy). How should I polish or buff out the dulled or hazy areas that contacted players skin? Thanks!
How do you keep from sanding the edge when you sand the sides? I invariably burn the edges when I sand like that.
I just ordered a candlewood strat body the grains are paralell to the neck. I thought about translucent red. The flour paste type grain filler im still not sure how. My second choice is translucent black.
Great video! I have a fair amount of experience with painting, sanding, and buffing in an automotive application, and I know that edges are particularly scary in that you have to pay close attention to the direction of the rotation in relation to an edge so that you don't buff the paint off of the edge. I've never used a buffing wheel, or buffed a guitar....or water based for that matter.....is it just as critical and delicate near the edges using the buffing wheel? And how easy is it for the guitar to get ripped out of your hands when doing the horns? Thanks!
The wheels are too soft and spin to slow to burn through at the edges unless you really try. In the dozen or so years, I've used buffing machines like the one in this video, I have never had a guitar body or neck ripped out of my hands.
Thanks for the tips. What materials did you use to wipe the surface clean of the medium buffing compound? Solvents?
No solvents are necessary since the compounds leave a dry powder. All you need is a clean soft cloth or paper towel.
Does this work for a drumset? I have vintage tama superstars with a laqure finish. I was hoping to buff them like this even though the drums are of course...round
I've watched a lot of luthier videos here on UTube and none of them get the level of mirror finish on their guitars as you do... you probably know that but I felt like telling you. Consistency in high quality though is the main thing I see.
Chris please share the motor and wheel shaft pulley diameters you have used on your buffer. I have been wanting to build one of these for years. Love your videos. Thanks for all you do!
All of that info is available in the assembly guide which is available at the bottom of this page: www.eguitarplans.com/
Gotcha didn't know you paid for plans Thx
Question:
About how long should I allow the finish to cure after its application before beginning this process?
Thank You Chris, very informative and helpful. I’m using quality automotive urethane paint products and a StewMac buffing machine and I have what looks like very fine scratches under my Tamco clear. I use mineral spirts instead of water and I am very careful to not cross the different buffing wheels. I’m going to try your suggestion of less grits, maybe 800, 1,000, 1,500 then the two buffing wheels of medium and fine.
ANY suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank You very much for the video.
When you apply the clear, are you sanding between coats? Scratches left by scuff sanding can migrate up through the finish and be revealed when level sanding. Also, scratches can occur due to contamination.
@@HighlineGuitars Hey Chris, Happy Halloween. Thanks for your response.
First, I do not sand between the clear coats. I shoot the base coat, wait the regulated time and then shoot the clear. I built a small 6’x6’ spray booth in my garage so it’s relatively a clean spraying environment.
I use mineral spirts to wet sand with and I’m thinking maybe it was contaminated. I’m curious about the dry sandpaper you used. You showed that it doesn’t load up, and you wiped it occasionally. Do you recommend I try it? Your body came out great looking. Id like to get those kinds of results. Which dry paper do you prefer most?
Again, thank you Chris for your time and advice.
I don’t know about the rest of you, but I like the matte red finish after the level sanding. Some day itt convert my gloss finish Into a murdered black
Could you tell me the name of the polishers that I use in the video, thanks
I have a buddy that paints cars and uses some real nice Iwata spray guns. His finishes are so nice they don’t even need wetsanding and he goes straight to buffing. They literally have practically zero orange peel. My goal is to get at least half as good as him so I can just wetsand with 1500 grit and go straight to buffing.
Been a year... How are you coming along with that goal?
Hoogla Boogla sometimes I get a really flat finish and can just do 1500 and then 2000. Sometimes I get a little dust nib or not so flat and have to start with 1000.
"I find it difficult to burn through a water-based finish"...Challenge accepted!!!
If I finished a neck with Solarez and wanted a matte finish how could I achieve that?
Great job. I am at the finish sanding for my clear coat. Would you recommend dry or wet sand?
I recommend dry sanding.
Have you ever tried wet sanding and using a rubber squeegee to block out your work, if so how were the result?
Hello Chris. If I may ask. What rmp would you recommend for compounding and also polishing on a hand held polisher? I have a Avid dual action random orbital polisher that the slowest rpm is 2700. Is that to fast or aggressive for a polishing speed?
Sorry, I don’t know. I have never used a hand held electric polisher. I am considering switching from my big buffer to a hand held polisher, but I need to find one that can run from zero rpm and up. That way I could test to find the optimal speeds.
I'm currently working on an old acoustic guitar and holy hell I think I might have to get my arm amputated from sanding. It's been 2 days and I tried with every kind of sandpaper. My next solution might be a hammer or a good throw from the balcony....
will this work with my van's front bumper?
what kind of paint did you used
That finish looks like polished crushed ruby's!!!!!!!
What about refinishing an older instrument rather than a newly painted one? Is there any surface sealer you have to use over the old finish (trying to preserve some of the original patina) in order to promote adhesion of the final layers? Over shellac, lacquer, or maybe a finish that contains oil based stain?
thank you!
I don't refinish old instruments. I only make new ones.
Hi, I asked you this last week but I don’t know if you saw the comment. What do you think about using Solarez as an initial base layer/sealer/grain filler and then over coating that with the crystal lac instrument finish? Do you think that would work especially since the Solarez seems to sand so well?. Thanks for the great content.
Yes, it would work.
In a recent build I used Solarez grain sealer, followed by a Createx color coat and finally Crystalac Brite Tone. Turned out great!
Reminds me of an job application I filled out for house painting. One question was, 'Do you like to sand?' I responded, 'Is this a trick question?' (I didn't get the job.)
My response would have been, "Anyone who likes to sand is probably psychotic and if sanding is that important to you, you're doing it all wrong."
Boom perfect
would have liked to see the final look more than a millisecond, vrey imformative. Thanks,
Very informative video. I have a fender American original '60s Stratocaster that has some waviness going on in the finish or body, I don't know which, but I am starting to wonder after watching your video if sanding it down and then buffing it could make it flatter and not have all the crazy wavy reflections going on. It is a lacquer nitrocellulose finish. Do you think that is an option?
I doubt the clear coat is thick enough to sand it level.
@@HighlineGuitars Do you think the waviness is how Fender finished the wood or could it be something with the sunburst base coat underneath?
@@j_music_8779 Without seeing the guitar, I have no idea.
Have you posted any information about the polisher that you built? It would be great to have a list of parts or plans for it.
That would be awesome. Your buffing machine is too cool.
Yes . . . Search his site. RUclips provides a 'search engine' on his site.
I have plans and a parts list. However, liability is the unknown factor.
How should I remove the remnants of the previous sander before moving on to the next sanding step? I am having a problem with this. I will be glad if you help. Which clenaer should i use?
Tack cloth.
Hi. can I ask where you got the polishing wheels from?
baylandproducts.com/products/14-inch-flannel-buffing-wheel-guitar-buffing-wheel
sand grit use?
how do you get your homemade wheel to spin so smoothy without it rattling and jumping around ?
I don't know, it just does.
Hi! First of all your videos are great and very inspiring!
I've a question: I'm on a satin finish on my very first build right now and I necessarily need to level sand. Which is the target sandpaper grit I should reach? I don't need to buff, i guess, as I want a satin look, but I neither want a 'scratched' surface, which is the result of 1500 sanding. My target is a satin, but flat, surface. Should I buff and then use 0000 steel wool to bring back the satin effect? Or simply reach an higher grit when level sanding? I really hope for your help, I'll take you advices as the Holy Bible.
Thank you!
I would recommend sanding to 3,000 grit with Super Assilex and then follow up with Norton synthetic steel wool pads (grey then white).
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks a lot!
Hey Chris, What is it about Crystalac that you prefer as opposed to Solarez?
Solarez cures in minutes. Crystalac buffs out really nice.
@@HighlineGuitars Thanks for the video. I am unfamiliar with Crystalac.
Is this as the name suggested, a laquer finish?
@@charlesharper7292 Yes. It is a clear water-based polyurethane lacquer.
How many coats of clear do you apply when you use lacquer?
Well??? Anyone???
If I sprayed high gloss 2k 2 days ago abut didnt get it thick enough can I just spray more coats on it as it? Or do I need to rough it up or anything? Will it stick since 1st is already cured?
Check with the manufacturer if you haven't already.
Do they make a water base paint as well! Like for a Stratocaster?
They make products that you can use to make your own water-based paint.
I've been doing finishes for a long time. I've always wet sanded in a circular motion however several RUclips lessons say sanding in one direction is better. I tried this on a recent finish and I'm not sure it looked any better than finishes I sanded circular. Is there any science behind either method being better?
In my videos, I use both motions depending on the desired outcome. For speed, I use a circular motion and for the final grits, I use one direction (usually with the grain) which reduces undesirable scratches.
His favorite word is ‚however‘... However, it‘s a great tutorial!
Do you do commission work? I need a Tele body repainted.
Sorry, but I only do complete builds from scratch.
Hi Chris. I used to help a friend rebuild and refinish pianos 40 years ago but have not tried doing any kind of refinishing myself. COVID has forced me into retirement and I thought I would try to refinish one of my guitars. I have watched many of your videos and feel comfortable with stripping and sanding from 120 to 220) but don't know which materials to use. I thought for sure I'd go with the Minwax polyurethane/mineral spirit mix in one of your videos but have told the fume would be very strong.
In another video, you mentioned the problem with water based product...
Which video should I watch forerefinishing a couple guitars safety and inexpensively? Thank you so much!
Try this one: ruclips.net/video/3RsweS6UFQc/видео.html
Thank you so much for your reply AND for your videos. I've that particular video several times, just wasn't sure if that's the "one". I watched your videos for about 5 hours last night and thought for sure the Boiled Linseed Oil/Mineral Spirit/Polyurethane/Japan dryer video was the one :)
Hi, maybe a dumb question but.. when You say that You're using a P800 Grit, it's a "P800" referring to the "ANSI" (American National Standards Institute) encoding? Thanks
The US standard is CAMI (Coated Abrasive Manufacturers Institute). It does NOT have a "P" or any other letter in front of the grit size designation. The "P" is found of paper graded by the FEPA (Federation of European Producers of Abrasives) standard.
@@HighlineGuitars thanks, looks like your 800 grit equals to a P1500 here, this clarifys to me every thing! :)
I really want to try the Crystalac Waterbased clear but I don’t know if it’s better than the Urethane clear I use now. Would you say that Crystalac is as hard as Urethane clears or is it softer more like lacquers?
What are you using?
I’m using Sherwin-Williams brand of automotive clear. They sand real nice and buff out pretty nice as well. The waterbased stuff seems appealing for health reasons because I’m spraying quite a bit now that I’m doing repairs full time.
@@Fazman81 I would say the S-W automotive clear is going to be harder than Crystalac. I'd recommend testing it first.
Great video!do u plug the screw holes when painting and spraying the finish?
Have you ever used 2K and what’s your thoughts on it. I don’t have a sprayer so rattle can will be my finish. You said in an earlier question to put on12-25 coats one a day over my painted guitar. What would that number be in rattle kans. either 2K or lacquer?
Thanks so much! You’ve helped me soooo much!
No.
2k polyurethane is extremely toxic. You have to wear a hazmat suit and a fitted respirator. Look up isocyanate. www.osha.gov/isocyanates
@@HighlineGuitars I know. I have a double respirator, long rubber gloves and a rubber apron I use to do tie dye. I havent decided.if I want to risk it yet... thanks for the info!