My Prius has been getting worse with these fixes not working. I tried Turtle's fix. It didn't work. not his fault! I ordered the capacitor and a soldering iron from Amazon. Took out my dash today and replaced the capacitor. I put it all back together and it seems to be fixed...Permanently!!! I wish everyone of you Prius owners best wishes!
I wouldn't say this is a permanent fix as capacitors can and do do degrade through time, this fault could return in the future. It all depends on the quality of capacitors used, but at least you should have a dependable repair. BTW I have been a qualified Auto electrician for 32 years.
@TheModelator I was having the same problem. Research led me to believe it's the capacitor. My workaround had been to disconnect the 12V battery in trunk; then reconnect it. This works but began to be more of a nuisance. I decided to wire a light -switch (common AC light switch 120V/15A found cheaply in hardware stores) with a short length of wire (common lamp-wire 14-gauge). Wired between grounding screw and ground wire to battery. This method allows easy access to disconnect/reconnect battery (i.e. reset electrical system). Capacitors acts to reduce ripple effect on the voltage. The main problem seems to be as the original capacitor(s) degrade over time, they may no longer reliably reduce the initial ripple (upon startup) to allow the computer to fully initialize; hence the multifunction display isn't brought online. While the light-switch was a fairly easy, quick, and cheap workaround, it seems to also have resolved the issue! Perhaps the addition of the switch and wiring induces a small measure of capacitance? In any case, I haven't had that issue again in months, if it recurs I can reset via the switch. Note: I folded the excess metal of switch and used electrical tape wrapped around it to form protective 'wings' so switch doesn't accidentally get switched OFF. Works great!
Jan 16, 2021. I own a 2007 Prius. My car has gone mad like this several times. And I have tried the different methods of getting the cluster lights back on. This was the easiest. Thank you!
Yeah I hate when the prius does this it's a great vehicle but it happens quite often you can either replace the combination meter or run a switch to the front off the negative side of the battery
Thanks for this post....very tired of extremely dishonest dealer "service" personnel who will charge thousands of dollars for repairs like replacing muffler bearings etc. Your fix worked like a charm on my 2005 Prius.
Kinda funny however cheapest way to fix is get a spool of wire of decent thickness disconnect the ground cable at one end of the new wire put a battery terminal connector and run it to the front under the dash into a switch at the other end of the switch run a wire to bare metal frame any time you have this issue you can flip a switch and it will work
@@TurtledC4t I have a 2006 with 155k miles. This started happening in the summer of 2020. The chicken dance of holding down the INFO button & turning the headlights on & off 3 times putting it into System Check Mode, then starting / restarting normally seemed to do the trick. Lately it's gotten much worse.... driving hundreds of miles without getting it to go on.... then POOF, it goes on. It stayed off for around 100 miles today, I tried your trick and it didn't work.... I tried it several times. Help me out... in your video, your key is in the keyslot and you push the power button. Is your foot on the brake? I'm guessing it is because when you push the power button again, the car powers off and you can take the key out. So you are basically starting with the car off.... then doing the unlock, door open/close, lock, unlock, key in slot.... start car routing..... is that right? For the 1st time tonight (April 6, 2021), I disconnected / reconnected the 12v battery and started it up.... and it popped right on. We'll see what tomorrow brings. Thanks for doing this..... if we could only get enough people to complain to Toyota for them to do a recall
@common conundrums Update..... April 6, 2021 later in the day I went out about 1 hour after disconnecting the 12v battery and the dash did not come on. I tried the trick in your video, didn't work. So I left it. I came out 12+ hours later and the dash board did not light up. I tried your trick and it came on right away...1st try. It seems as though this is kind of a reset or something? The trip-odometers went back to 0 and it seems like other things reset too. Another note.... when you disconnect the battery, the window auto up & down stops working. To get it working again, roll the windows up & down 3 or 4 times and it will re-learn it.
@@TurtledC4t - Do you have a video on this? I'm not following what you meant by "front under the dash into a switch at the other end of the switch...."
@@buenafe I wish I did have a video at the moment I no longer own an 07 prius I have upgraded however. What you need to do is as follows .disconnect negative terminal from the back battery and from the frame . .run a fresh wire from negative battery terminal all the way to the front left next to the fog light switch . .buy a plastic switch from auto zone and make it fit right next to the fog light swithc. . Put a wire going from the switch to a metal part anywhere under the dash .put the wire coming from the negative terminal on the other side of the switch and you can now switch on and off the battery without getting out!
As mentioned in this video description this is only a temp fix, the cluster will go out again. The way to permanently fix either a dim, not lit up or flashing display is by changing all 3 of the guages power supply capacitors,,, no use just changing the leaky or faulty ones, do all 3. If you don't feel capable of changing the capacitors, the only option is to replace the cluster. I have worked on aprox 15 Prius's that the customers have attempted these push buttons, switch on and off open doors and windows combinations, only to find out they either have error codes popping up,, I even had 2 that lost the communication between the fob and the car, and 1 that damaged the ECU. Messing about with combinations is definitely not good, plus it could lead to a very expensive repair if it all goes wrong. I hope this helps someone out their. Ray
@@robertmencl9169 The power supply capacitors usually lose value through time, hence a faulty or flashing display,, A flashing display means that the capacitor is charging and discharging rather than giving a steady voltage. Pressing random buttons can discharge the capacitor and it just may work for a short time before it starts all over again. But the possibility of the capacitor short circuiting can cause other components to burn out, plus send a voltage through the can bus causing ECU problems as well as the original one. It's not worth the risk when the capacitors can easily be repaired and the job done properly
I wish I'd seen this comment before I replaced just the bad one. Now my fuel gauge is blinking empty when it's full. Guess I'll pull out the dash and do the others. None of the other fixes worked (inclinometer). Would you know if they're all the same value? I replaced the common 100uf with a 220uf. I have 4 left lol
I just did my 08 Prius, totally yank the dashboard and pull out the combination meter under the dashboard. The culprit in the combo meter is the tiny capacitor. Takes almost a day and got the car on normal mode, everything works. If you want a temporary fix just unhook the positive side on the 12volt battery, wait 3 minutes and put it back. This works but until you fix the capacitor problem it will still give you problem.
Other work aorund is. Turn car in ACC mode. Press CLIMATE button (display unit)for 3 second and turn head lights on while the climate button is suppressed.. That worked for me over the method above
@@dz94040 That means Accessory Mode. So when you hit the start button (with foot OFF brake), even if your dash lights don't come on, the little screen with climate, consumption, etc. still does. That is Accessory Mode.
I was having the same problem. Research led me to believe it's the capacitor. My workaround had been to disconnect the 12V battery in trunk; then reconnect it. This works but began to be more of a nuisance. I decided to wire a light -switch (common AC light switch 120V/15A found cheaply in hardware stores) with a short length of wire (common lamp-wire 14-gauge). Wired between grounding screw and ground wire to battery. This method allows easy access to disconnect/reconnect battery (i.e. reset electrical system). Capacitors acts to reduce ripple effect on the voltage. The main problem seems to be as the original capacitor(s) degrade over time, they may no longer reliably reduce the initial ripple (upon startup) to allow the computer to fully initialize; hence the multifunction display isn't brought online. While the light-switch was a fairly easy, quick, and cheap workaround, it seems to also have resolved the issue! Perhaps the addition of the switch and wiring induces a small measure of capacitance? In any case, I haven't had that issue again in months, if it recurs I can reset via the switch. Note: I folded the excess metal of switch and used electrical tape wrapped around it to form protective 'wings' so switch doesn't accidentally get switched OFF. Works great!
Thanks so much, for your help. I love my prius 2007, it has 186,000 mills. Very economic in gasoline, and soft to drive. Other car i loved to drive it was beetle.
Mine didn’t work 😔.... kept trying and it worked!!! Yayyyyyyy thank you so much. For those who it isn’t workout for, you can track your speed through the WAZE app... it would tell me how fast I was going 👍🏾
Tried a lot of hacks and this one did the trick. Gonna still replace the internal capacitor DIY style for a long term solution but great to see the dash come back for now. Thanks!!
Hi all, first, I really do appreciate the video, and it did work, but only for a while. But to help anyone with this problem, what really really was the issue was that you need to take the circuit board out of the dash and clean it. I had it done by a pro who had another vid here on YT. I don't want to promo other vids here - i do appreciate this one - but it's a dude in Orange County California, you can find it, and I went to him, the very guy in the vid, and I paid I think $300 - $400, and my friends, this was it. It took 3-4 hours, they did some magic on the board itself, I could never do that myself, it's a complicated disassembly and put-back... I installed no capacitor. I bought them but never did the install. The issue is the board's connection to the rest of the systems.. i am no electronics expert but this is the only fix that has lasted for long term and no problems. Best to all.
Wow this is the best fix! I tried a few things and it works sometimes and sometimes I have to try a couple times but for sure I’ll try this. Thank you!
Man with all of our advanced engineering and modern technology we'd be unstoppable if we could actually design just one vehicle that didn't overly rely on advanced engineering and modern technology.
Its a crazy way to do it but it works most of the time if you have any other issues run a cable from the negative part of the battery to a switch (be sure to disconnext the existing ground wire)and then one from the switch to a grounding spot make sure connections are tight and no expos3d wires and just use the switch at the front flip it on and of really fast it will come on for you
When pressing the power button, foot on the brakes or no?
4 месяца назад
The reason it's called a combination meter is that you could do a lot of different functions at the same time . . . . to get it to work, simply do three different things at the same time. It can be headlights door open pushing a button anything . . . just do three different things at the same time.
Well that's a new take on this! I saved it in case it happens again. Last time it happened because the car was still on, it wouldn't release the FOB. Going forward I'm going to keep it in the car, but not in the holder. Then I could try this. I did select this video to find out the "technical" issue. I'll keep researching. My car also has high mileage, drives well and great MPG. Wouldn't want to think this was a LT issue though....
Ours just did that tonight at Walmart...but it didn't beep when backing up and the shift knobs didn't light up...were those also issues that happen at the same time?
For me radio horn and dash - car is acting possessed - thing is I can drive it or leave in in ready and say sit in the car waiting for Uber eats orders etc and every time it has gone out it has also randomly popped back on But the next time I turn it off and restart it- bam black again - oh yeah one more thing I don’t have the miles per gallon even on the info screen - it says 0 on both and stays there even when I drive it -I think maybe it’s because while the dash lights are off it’s not counting your mileage on the odometer so it may be good for people who plan to sell their car and maybe don’t want to put more miles that will show - not sure how long it’s feasible to not know gas and how fast you going but if you do deliveries it could be a way to keep the mileage low - I think my car has a demon tho it’s def acting possessed oh one more thing that is really messed up and inconvenient- the door locks do not open the rear hatch when the dash is not on - so maybe it’s got a short somewhere- don’t know but the radio last night went nuts and no sound and I was not touching the tuner and it was going up and down the radio dial back and forth - kind of creeepy haha
I’ve tried every fix on every video. None work except the unhook the big white connector at positive battery terminal in back for 45 seconds at least. That works most, or at least some, of the time. Getting worse. So I guess it’s time to pull the cluster gauge and replace a 10 cent capacitor
This happened to me recently and I fixed it with a different hack from yours but will save your video too as an option. However, I did notice that now the dash light doesn't change intensity anymore when I switch the headlights on and off like it used to. Have you noticed that too? Thanks
The real way to fix this problem is to remove the combination meter and replace the 100uf capacitor on the back of the combination meter with a 220uf capacitor and that will fix that problem permanently. I've done this many times for customers. The problem with the 100uf capacitor is it can't stand up to the temperature changes in between 70°-120° at all. Even rapid fluctuating temperatures affect that one capacitor. Don't take it to the dealer. All they will do is replace the whole combination meter instead of fixing the problem with the one capacitor. I rebuild these for customers constantly and none of my customers have had a problem since. Also when these go blank like this you lose the ability to track your oil life and your mileage.
@@majorityiswrong9986 I had been doing that for nearly a year I think that capacitor has had enough now I may have to go for a surgery and get 100 volt or strength capacitor
I've had this issue with my old battery i replaced the 12v battery and had no issues for about a week I noticed that youd be better off wiring in a switch in the front of the car to disconnect the ground from the car and re set everything
@@majorityiswrong9986 hey guys, I finally had to do that surgery to replace that bad 100uf capacitor and replaced it with 220uf to fix this issue for ever In Shaa Allah.
bilal ahmad it works as he says but buy a 100uf or a 220uf 16 volt capacitor to replace the defective one ...I bought mine from amazon or Walmart on line has them. ...there is a video on how to do it just need a soldering gun ...I got mine at harbor freight includes solder ....and you need to watch the video on how to take the Prius dash apart...cost me 5$ and and a few hours 😁
From my understanding, it is more common that the cars that do not have the convenience key do this and it's quite rare that the cars that have the convenience key functionality actually do this.
When you say 'convenience key functionality, I assume you mean a 'smart key'. The type that unlocks the car when you are close to the door and will start without putting the key fob into the slot. Well I hate to differ with you. I have a 2008 second gen Prius. with smart key functionality and the dash lights have gone out three times on me. This time was after the car had sat for a month and drained the 12 V battery. I trickle charged it overnight and when I started the car, no dash lights.
Start botton without push brake ,open the door, turn on headlights, push the brake and start the car normally or start,turn on forward lights, turn on headlights and start the car with foot on the brake
Run a switch from the negative battery terminal to one of the empty spots on the left side of the steering wheel and ground the switch to a spot under the dash make sure all connections are tight
@@rpglover4life so disconnect the ground from the body run a new ground from the battery to the front of the vehicle next to the steering wheel to a switch there should be some empty switch spots and then one straight to a ground somewhere on the body with bare metal
@@TurtledC4t i see what you mean now. the disconnecting battery dont work. i dc battery for 30secs n reconnect nothing. so ama try this vid trick . otherwise idk :/
Thanks for that "HACK!" i may buy a 2008 Prius soon, and iv heard that the dash lights could be a issue. it was also posted on you tubes that its possabile the car wont quit running, or wont start. any HACKS FOR THAT? Are those common problems for the 2nd gen, or something to become aware of when car has high milage? please answer, much thanks and appreciation! My mechanical ability is like the interist we get at the bank .o.2 or 3.out of 10.
There are 3 things that usually go wrong with the second gen prius. 1. The combination meter keeps shutting off which is caused by a resistor inside the combination meter (your gauge cluster) 2. The vent for your hybrid battery quits working which causes the hybrid battery to over heat and in return causes failure and expensive replacement. 3. The timing chain guide becomes worn out and makes a ticking noise while driving. Would reccomend replacing that. Other than that the 2nd gen prius is a very reliable vehicle and will last many miles as long as it is taken care of with regular maintenance
Dude..i been goin thru this for months..if your remedy works(haven't tried it)..thankyou so much! I know it's the cap replcmt that needs to be done...but whata hassle! Ill do it---
Yeah it sucks a lot there are many ways to fix it but it's easier to either get out and disconnect the negative terminal or just run a quick switch to your dash
nothing to do with disconnecting battery. this is not a permanent fix! gen 2 high mileage Prius are known for combination meters in dashboard display going bad and will need to either be fixed or replaced. do not heed this poster’s advice and waste your time.
My dear friend I know it has nothing to do with the battery however if you unplug the battery for a little bit and plug it back in the dash will pop back on. Quit being a keyboard warrior.
I turned on and off many times ...no dash lights. I did what he said and got my 2005 Prius dash lights on ... It DOES HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH LOCK(S) BECAUSE MY FINAL FIX WAS TO MOVE REAR CARPET THAT WAS INTERFERING WITH TRUNK RELEASE.
@@John-hj6edyup this is mad late but my rear hatch won’t open with the door locks which are fine but the hatch which is a fucking horrible design on this damn car - maybe gen 2 were made with the kidnapper in mind - I mean even after you crawl through the car take all the shit you have like me in the rear out and then pull up carpet and whatever man I thought the trunk releases had to be easy to access but I’m having other random issues radio horn and the mpg on the info display stays at zero so not Sure what gas mileage I’m Getting - also when the dash is off it does not record your mileage so tbese may be linked either way it’s a pain in the but all this do the Hokey Pokey and that’s what it’s all about
This was the best fix. I tried them all and spent many embarrassing nights trying to explain why i was looking in my trunk
My Prius has been getting worse with these fixes not working. I tried Turtle's fix. It didn't work. not his fault! I ordered the capacitor and a soldering iron from Amazon. Took out my dash today and replaced the capacitor. I put it all back together and it seems to be fixed...Permanently!!! I wish everyone of you Prius owners best wishes!
I wouldn't say this is a permanent fix as capacitors can and do do degrade through time, this fault could return in the future.
It all depends on the quality of capacitors used, but at least you should have a dependable repair.
BTW I have been a qualified Auto electrician for 32 years.
My man this comment save me 600$ you are the best prius mechanic ever, you are amazing, i’ve change it today and finally it’s working
@TheModelator I was having the same problem. Research led me to believe it's the capacitor. My workaround had been to disconnect the 12V battery in trunk; then reconnect it. This works but began to be more of a nuisance. I decided to wire a light -switch (common AC light switch 120V/15A found cheaply in hardware stores) with a short length of wire (common lamp-wire 14-gauge). Wired between grounding screw and ground wire to battery. This method allows easy access to disconnect/reconnect battery (i.e. reset electrical system).
Capacitors acts to reduce ripple effect on the voltage. The main problem seems to be as the original capacitor(s) degrade over time, they may no longer reliably reduce the initial ripple (upon startup) to allow the computer to fully initialize; hence the multifunction display isn't brought online.
While the light-switch was a fairly easy, quick, and cheap workaround, it seems to also have resolved the issue!
Perhaps the addition of the switch and wiring induces a small measure of capacitance? In any case, I haven't had that issue again in months, if it recurs I can reset via the switch.
Note: I folded the excess metal of switch and used electrical tape wrapped around it to form protective 'wings' so switch doesn't accidentally get switched OFF. Works great!
@@IsRealIsraEl-lq7xrmake a video
Jan 16, 2021. I own a 2007 Prius. My car has gone mad like this several times. And I have tried the different methods of getting the cluster lights back on. This was the easiest. Thank you!
MAAAAN YOU ARE A LEGEND !! been stuck at work for an hour you are a godsend with this video!
Yeah I hate when the prius does this it's a great vehicle but it happens quite often you can either replace the combination meter or run a switch to the front off the negative side of the battery
@TurtledC4t but still requires you to take the Dashboard on and off?
Thanks for this post....very tired of extremely dishonest dealer "service" personnel who will charge thousands of dollars for repairs like replacing muffler bearings etc. Your fix worked like a charm on my 2005 Prius.
Kinda funny however cheapest way to fix is get a spool of wire of decent thickness disconnect the ground cable at one end of the new wire put a battery terminal connector and run it to the front under the dash into a switch at the other end of the switch run a wire to bare metal frame any time you have this issue you can flip a switch and it will work
@@TurtledC4t I have a 2006 with 155k miles. This started happening in the summer of 2020. The chicken dance of holding down the INFO button & turning the headlights on & off 3 times putting it into System Check Mode, then starting / restarting normally seemed to do the trick. Lately it's gotten much worse.... driving hundreds of miles without getting it to go on.... then POOF, it goes on. It stayed off for around 100 miles today, I tried your trick and it didn't work.... I tried it several times. Help me out... in your video, your key is in the keyslot and you push the power button. Is your foot on the brake? I'm guessing it is because when you push the power button again, the car powers off and you can take the key out. So you are basically starting with the car off.... then doing the unlock, door open/close, lock, unlock, key in slot.... start car routing..... is that right?
For the 1st time tonight (April 6, 2021), I disconnected / reconnected the 12v battery and started it up.... and it popped right on. We'll see what tomorrow brings.
Thanks for doing this..... if we could only get enough people to complain to Toyota for them to do a recall
@common conundrums Update..... April 6, 2021 later in the day
I went out about 1 hour after disconnecting the 12v battery and the dash did not come on. I tried the trick in your video, didn't work. So I left it.
I came out 12+ hours later and the dash board did not light up. I tried your trick and it came on right away...1st try. It seems as though this is kind of a reset or something? The trip-odometers went back to 0 and it seems like other things reset too.
Another note.... when you disconnect the battery, the window auto up & down stops working. To get it working again, roll the windows up & down 3 or 4 times and it will re-learn it.
@@TurtledC4t - Do you have a video on this? I'm not following what you meant by "front under the dash into a switch at the other end of the switch...."
@@buenafe I wish I did have a video at the moment I no longer own an 07 prius I have upgraded however.
What you need to do is as follows
.disconnect negative terminal from the back battery and from the frame .
.run a fresh wire from negative battery terminal all the way to the front left next to the fog light switch .
.buy a plastic switch from auto zone and make it fit right next to the fog light swithc.
. Put a wire going from the switch to a metal part anywhere under the dash
.put the wire coming from the negative terminal on the other side of the switch and you can now switch on and off the battery without getting out!
As mentioned in this video description this is only a temp fix, the cluster will go out again.
The way to permanently fix either a dim, not lit up or flashing display is by changing all 3 of the guages power supply capacitors,,, no use just changing the leaky or faulty ones, do all 3.
If you don't feel capable of changing the capacitors, the only option is to replace the cluster.
I have worked on aprox 15 Prius's that the customers have attempted these push buttons, switch on and off open doors and windows combinations, only to find out they either have error codes popping up,, I even had 2 that lost the communication between the fob and the car, and 1 that damaged the ECU.
Messing about with combinations is definitely not good, plus it could lead to a very expensive repair if it all goes wrong.
I hope this helps someone out their.
Ray
Sorry but I do not think you can damage the ecu by pressing any combination of buttons.
@@robertmencl9169 The power supply capacitors usually lose value through time, hence a faulty or flashing display,,
A flashing display means that the capacitor is charging and discharging rather than giving a steady voltage.
Pressing random buttons can discharge the capacitor and it just may work for a short time before it starts all over again.
But the possibility of the capacitor short circuiting can cause other components to burn out, plus send a voltage through the can bus causing ECU problems as well as the original one.
It's not worth the risk when the capacitors can easily be repaired and the job done properly
I wish I'd seen this comment before I replaced just the bad one. Now my fuel gauge is blinking empty when it's full. Guess I'll pull out the dash and do the others. None of the other fixes worked (inclinometer). Would you know if they're all the same value? I replaced the common 100uf with a 220uf. I have 4 left lol
Is the the cluster of 3 silver ones together?
Ive noted at least five methods on youtube for getting around this problem. Thanks for yours.
Damn, it worked with way less hassle than expected! Thank you!!!🙏🏼👍🏼
I just did my 08 Prius, totally yank the dashboard and pull out the combination meter under the dashboard. The culprit in the combo meter is the tiny capacitor. Takes almost a day and got the car on normal mode, everything works. If you want a temporary fix just unhook the positive side on the 12volt battery, wait 3 minutes and put it back. This works but until you fix the capacitor problem it will still give you problem.
Other work aorund is. Turn car in ACC mode. Press CLIMATE button (display unit)for 3 second and turn head lights on while the climate button is suppressed.. That worked for me over the method above
This one worked for me as the video did not ! Thanks
It would be amazing if you can make a video. I can’t seem to figure it out
What do you mean Acc
@@dz94040 That means Accessory Mode. So when you hit the start button (with foot OFF brake), even if your dash lights don't come on, the little screen with climate, consumption, etc. still does. That is Accessory Mode.
This worked for me after like the thirds try
I was having the same problem. Research led me to believe it's the capacitor. My workaround had been to disconnect the 12V battery in trunk; then reconnect it. This works but began to be more of a nuisance. I decided to wire a light -switch (common AC light switch 120V/15A found cheaply in hardware stores) with a short length of wire (common lamp-wire 14-gauge). Wired between grounding screw and ground wire to battery. This method allows easy access to disconnect/reconnect battery (i.e. reset electrical system).
Capacitors acts to reduce ripple effect on the voltage. The main problem seems to be as the original capacitor(s) degrade over time, they may no longer reliably reduce the initial ripple (upon startup) to allow the computer to fully initialize; hence the multifunction display isn't brought online.
While the light-switch was a fairly easy, quick, and cheap workaround, it seems to also have resolved the issue!
Perhaps the addition of the switch and wiring induces a small measure of capacitance? In any case, I haven't had that issue again in months, if it recurs I can reset via the switch.
Note: I folded the excess metal of switch and used electrical tape wrapped around it to form protective 'wings' so switch doesn't accidentally get switched OFF. Works great!
Thanks so much, for your help. I love my prius 2007, it has 186,000 mills. Very economic in gasoline, and soft to drive. Other car i loved to drive it was beetle.
Mine didn’t work 😔.... kept trying and it worked!!! Yayyyyyyy thank you so much. For those who it isn’t workout for, you can track your speed through the WAZE app... it would tell me how fast I was going 👍🏾
Smart here.....keep trying
@@toddshaw6658 ended up replacing mine.. but good luck to you
@@fb4288 300.00
@@fb4288 I bought the part (300.00) and my brother installed it for me… for free
What part is this?
thank you! I tried the other methods, they did not work. this one worked for me!
PRIUS LIFE! At the mall after work... RUclips saved me... AGAIN!
Tried a lot of hacks and this one did the trick. Gonna still replace the internal capacitor DIY style for a long term solution but great to see the dash come back for now. Thanks!!
Hi all, first, I really do appreciate the video, and it did work, but only for a while. But to help anyone with this problem, what really really was the issue was that you need to take the circuit board out of the dash and clean it. I had it done by a pro who had another vid here on YT. I don't want to promo other vids here - i do appreciate this one - but it's a dude in Orange County California, you can find it, and I went to him, the very guy in the vid, and I paid I think $300 - $400, and my friends, this was it. It took 3-4 hours, they did some magic on the board itself, I could never do that myself, it's a complicated disassembly and put-back... I installed no capacitor. I bought them but never did the install. The issue is the board's connection to the rest of the systems.. i am no electronics expert but this is the only fix that has lasted for long term and no problems. Best to all.
Thank you ! Worked just as you showed and saved me so much of a headache !
Thank you so much for this knowledge no one can take it away from me now
No problem at all man
@@TurtledC4t it is problem with key slot in dash
I bet three or four beers might make you forget!
@@anetajohnson8446 I don't drink alcohol
Got mine fix today for $250
Cluster problem!!
Wow that's cheap the part alone used is that much dealership wants 1000 plus for part and labor I said hell no
Yo thank you! This worked for me like right now. Thank you FR…I don’t live comments on YT. But you just saved me.
Nice this worked while another youtube fix didnt. Thanks
Wow this is the best fix! I tried a few things and it works sometimes and sometimes I have to try a couple times but for sure I’ll try this. Thank you!
Do you have to press the brake when you press the power button at the end?
Man with all of our advanced engineering and modern technology we'd be unstoppable if we could actually design just one vehicle that didn't overly rely on advanced engineering and modern technology.
Dude, lifesaver!
Its a crazy way to do it but it works most of the time if you have any other issues run a cable from the negative part of the battery to a switch (be sure to disconnext the existing ground wire)and then one from the switch to a grounding spot make sure connections are tight and no expos3d wires and just use the switch at the front flip it on and of really fast it will come on for you
When pressing the power button, foot on the brakes or no?
The reason it's called a combination meter is that you could do a lot of different functions at the same time . . . . to get it to work, simply do three different things at the same time. It can be headlights door open pushing a button anything . . . just do three different things at the same time.
Very helpful 😊 really appreciate
Damn this is like GTA cheat codes
Life saver!! Thank you sir.
This video just safe me today. Thank You very much 😊
Video starts at 1:03
Have a good evening!!Very cool, thanks
Wow worked like charm thanks
Omg this worked thanks a million
Well that's a new take on this! I saved it in case it happens again. Last time it happened because the car was still on, it wouldn't release the FOB. Going forward I'm going to keep it in the car, but not in the holder. Then I could try this.
I did select this video to find out the "technical" issue. I'll keep researching.
My car also has high mileage, drives well and great MPG. Wouldn't want to think this was a LT issue though....
I keep a spare fob in my car, in a little tin box to prevent communication.
Life saver thank you!!
Thanks. Very useful
Ours just did that tonight at Walmart...but it didn't beep when backing up and the shift knobs didn't light up...were those also issues that happen at the same time?
For me radio horn and dash - car is acting possessed - thing is I can drive it or leave in in ready and say sit in the car waiting for Uber eats orders etc and every time it has gone out it has also randomly popped back on
But the next time I turn it off and restart it- bam black again - oh yeah one more thing I don’t have the miles per gallon even on the info screen - it says 0 on both and stays there even when I drive it -I think maybe it’s because while the dash lights are off it’s not counting your mileage on the odometer so it may be good for people who plan to sell their car and maybe don’t want to put more miles that will show - not sure how long it’s feasible to not know gas and how fast you going but if you do deliveries it could be a way to keep the mileage low - I think my car has a demon tho it’s def acting possessed oh one more thing that is really messed up and inconvenient- the door locks do not open the rear hatch when the dash is not on - so maybe it’s got a short somewhere- don’t know but the radio last night went nuts and no sound and I was not touching the tuner and it was going up and down the radio dial back and forth - kind of creeepy haha
Thank you so much❤
2007 base model Prius. Did not work. Brand new battery installed. Still black dash 😢
I've tried this on a 2009 and it's not working for me and I've tried it about five times
It works. Thank you!
Thank you, I was dreading turning off my car.
Life saver thanx alot
You're welcome
I’ve tried every fix on every video. None work except the unhook the big white connector at positive battery terminal in back for 45 seconds at least. That works most, or at least some, of the time. Getting worse. So I guess it’s time to pull the cluster gauge and replace a 10 cent capacitor
When you press power did you press the brake or not before unlocking the car
Try unplugging the battery or running a switch from the negative terminal to the front of the car and ground it
It’s work thank you verymuch i was so scared happen something but thank you
OMG. THANK YOU!!
Do you put the brake to turn on the car all the time? You unlock the door first then you open the door and close it and loçk and then unlock?
Many thanks- it is working
This happened to me recently and I fixed it with a different hack from yours but will save your video too as an option.
However, I did notice that now the dash light doesn't change intensity anymore when I switch the headlights on and off like it used to. Have you noticed that too? Thanks
The dash display goes out when I turn on the headlights
Nice video. Thanks 😊
you absolute genius!!!! thank you!!!
Yw
The real way to fix this problem is to remove the combination meter and replace the 100uf capacitor on the back of the combination meter with a 220uf capacitor and that will fix that problem permanently. I've done this many times for customers. The problem with the 100uf capacitor is it can't stand up to the temperature changes in between 70°-120° at all. Even rapid fluctuating temperatures affect that one capacitor. Don't take it to the dealer. All they will do is replace the whole combination meter instead of fixing the problem with the one capacitor. I rebuild these for customers constantly and none of my customers have had a problem since.
Also when these go blank like this you lose the ability to track your oil life and your mileage.
What do you think the reason why the dash board light is always off?
Change your key
Fob battery!!!
What if the key fob does not work for the car, I have to use my manual key. Could I lock and unlock with the car door button?
Unplug the battery in the back or wire up a switch
Hey buddy,
These steps aren't helping me at the moment 😔
Any other solutions to get back my lights?
@@majorityiswrong9986 I had been doing that for nearly a year
I think that capacitor has had enough now
I may have to go for a surgery and get 100 volt or strength capacitor
I've had this issue with my old battery i replaced the 12v battery and had no issues for about a week I noticed that youd be better off wiring in a switch in the front of the car to disconnect the ground from the car and re set everything
@@majorityiswrong9986 hey guys, I finally had to do that surgery to replace that bad 100uf capacitor and replaced it with 220uf to fix this issue for ever In Shaa Allah.
bilal ahmad it works as he says but buy a 100uf or a 220uf 16 volt capacitor to replace the defective one ...I bought mine from amazon or Walmart on line has them. ...there is a video on how to do it just need a soldering gun ...I got mine at harbor freight includes solder ....and you need to watch the video on how to take the Prius dash apart...cost me 5$ and and a few hours 😁
Wish I could get this to work for mine! I tried all of the steps it didn't work 🙃
I change battery on my 2007 Prius I misplaced battery wire no only crank no starting no dashboard lights only check light can you help me please
From my understanding, it is more common that the cars that do not have the convenience key do this and it's quite rare that the cars that have the convenience key functionality actually do this.
When you say 'convenience key functionality, I assume you mean a 'smart key'. The type that unlocks the car when you are close to the door and will start without putting the key fob into the slot.
Well I hate to differ with you. I have a 2008 second gen Prius. with smart key functionality and the dash lights have gone out three times on me. This time was after the car had sat for a month and drained the 12 V battery. I trickle charged it overnight and when I started the car, no dash lights.
None of the tricks work for me anymore. I can't smog my car without the dashlights on right?
In California? Yes, you can. Shouldn't be a problem.
Start botton without push brake ,open the door, turn on headlights, push the brake and start the car normally or start,turn on forward lights, turn on headlights and start the car with foot on the brake
@@alxdrby7037 this worked when no other method /hack would work!! 2008 Prius
@@Freedomforawl Great! Just learn it and practice daily, try to park your car always in shadow and check if work without turn lights on.
The smog technician needs to read the odometer in order to pass smog.
It wont release my key fob after turning the power button on.....
It's not supposed to let go of the key till you turn the engine off.
Damn this doesn’t work and holding the climate button and turning on my lights doesn’t work either
2006 here. Thanks. Is this car a zombie or sleep walking.
Thank you!! But is this just a temporary fix ?or does this cure it lol
It works! Thanks so much. How did you learn how to do that?
Honestly I just started doing random stuff
for mine all i do is turn the car on with my door open and it starts right up
good afternoon . My prius changed the cluster combination meter (220, 16v) and the dashboard is still black. Has anyone had this problem?
😅😅 thank you😅
Ty so much!!!
You're welcome
Life saver
I've tried this three times and mine is not coming on I have a 2009
Run a switch from the negative battery terminal to one of the empty spots on the left side of the steering wheel and ground the switch to a spot under the dash make sure all connections are tight
@@TurtledC4t what do you mean? what kind of switch? so grab a cable, run it to the side of sterering wheell and ground it somewhere? thanks for help!
@@rpglover4life so disconnect the ground from the body run a new ground from the battery to the front of the vehicle next to the steering wheel to a switch there should be some empty switch spots and then one straight to a ground somewhere on the body with bare metal
@@TurtledC4t i see what you mean now. the disconnecting battery dont work. i dc battery for 30secs n reconnect nothing. so ama try this vid trick . otherwise idk :/
Does not work for my 2009 Prius
Why doesn't the car turn off and the key won't be released
The key doesn't have to be in the slot for the car to start
Press and hold the power button down until the car turns off. Then you will be able to remove the fob.
Thanks for that "HACK!" i may buy a 2008 Prius soon, and iv heard that the dash lights could be a issue. it was also posted on you tubes that its possabile the car wont quit running, or wont start. any HACKS FOR THAT? Are those common problems for the 2nd gen, or something to become aware of when car has high milage? please answer, much thanks and appreciation! My mechanical ability is like the interist we get at the bank .o.2 or 3.out of 10.
There are 3 things that usually go wrong with the second gen prius.
1. The combination meter keeps shutting off which is caused by a resistor inside the combination meter (your gauge cluster)
2. The vent for your hybrid battery quits working which causes the hybrid battery to over heat and in return causes failure and expensive replacement.
3. The timing chain guide becomes worn out and makes a ticking noise while driving. Would reccomend replacing that.
Other than that the 2nd gen prius is a very reliable vehicle and will last many miles as long as it is taken care of with regular maintenance
Then you’re going to get out and do ten jumping jacking, five burpees then hit power button
Mine had 211k and it has happened 5 or 6 times since hitting 200k
Saved.
Witchcraft...but damn good gas mileage
These cars are so silly, why does this work?
Freaking love you
Dude..i been goin thru this for months..if your remedy works(haven't tried it)..thankyou so much!
I know it's the cap replcmt that needs to be done...but whata hassle! Ill do it---
Yeah it sucks a lot there are many ways to fix it but it's easier to either get out and disconnect the negative terminal or just run a quick switch to your dash
This is keyfob issue. Replace the battery In The fob and this won't happen.
Key is stuck
Didn’t work for me 😭
See, my dash lights are only going out when I turn on my headlights
Sounds like a dying battery replace your small battery in the back
I would love this...if it worked...but it didn't, even after multiple attempts...
nothing to do with disconnecting battery. this is not a permanent fix! gen 2 high mileage Prius are known for combination meters in dashboard display going bad and will need to either be fixed or replaced. do not heed this poster’s advice and waste your time.
My dear friend I know it has nothing to do with the battery however if you unplug the battery for a little bit and plug it back in the dash will pop back on. Quit being a keyboard warrior.
Thankkkkas
Didn’t work
Omfg. Does anyone have an actual “Fix” or even a diagnosis other then this stupid workaround? So annoying
are you Money Saver Thanks 😊
That did not work.
Din't work...
It has nothing to do with the lock unlock, just turn of car and turn on back again
I turned the car off a dz times before finding with video. I did what he told me to do and the problem was fixed.
I turned on and off many times ...no dash lights. I did what he said and got my 2005 Prius dash lights on ... It DOES HAVE SOMETHING TO DO WITH LOCK(S) BECAUSE MY FINAL FIX WAS TO MOVE REAR CARPET THAT WAS INTERFERING WITH TRUNK RELEASE.
@@John-hj6edyup this is mad late but my rear hatch won’t open with the door locks which are fine but the hatch which is a fucking horrible design on this damn car - maybe gen 2 were made with the kidnapper in mind -
I mean even after you crawl through the car take all the shit you have like me in the rear out and then pull up carpet and whatever man I thought the trunk releases had to be easy to access but I’m having other random issues radio horn and the mpg on the info display stays at zero so not
Sure what gas mileage I’m
Getting - also when the dash is off it does not record your mileage so tbese may be linked either way it’s a pain in the but all this do the Hokey Pokey and that’s what it’s all about
Toyota's quality is going down the drain.
Did not work for me
Try to hook up a switch or replace the resistor
@@TurtledC4t Thanks for the suggestions. I will look into replacing the resistor. Thanks again, your a good man
You're very welcome you can actually replace the entire combination meter with a rebuilt replacement from ebay
These are some weird ass steps ..
Tbh
I know but the prius has some weird ass problems