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TurtledC4t
Добавлен 11 фев 2018
This Channel varies in videos between gaming and cars
Nimbus
"Only you can halt what he has set in motion..."
www.halowaypoint.com/halo-infinite/ugc/maps/33baff3b-4521-44da-afaa-14d85d3d98c8
www.halowaypoint.com/halo-infinite/ugc/maps/33baff3b-4521-44da-afaa-14d85d3d98c8
Просмотров: 185
Видео
Prius dash problem(UPDATE)
Просмотров 101 тыс.5 лет назад
No lights on dash no fuel guage no speedometer Temp Fix Update. Feb 7 2020 " while in the car turn on your lights and lock the door with the key fob . If that does work unlock with the key fob open the door with the lights turned on and what you should be seeing on the dash is your headlight indicator on if that's on you're good to start up the car"
Chevy impala stalling issue
Просмотров 29 тыс.6 лет назад
3.8l impala ls problems anything this engine is in problems idle issue white smoke clouds update it's the maf sensor that's bad or the cps
Didn’t work for me
😅😅 thank you😅
Damn, it worked with way less hassle than expected! Thank you!!!🙏🏼👍🏼
The reason it's called a combination meter is that you could do a lot of different functions at the same time . . . . to get it to work, simply do three different things at the same time. It can be headlights door open pushing a button anything . . . just do three different things at the same time.
The real way to fix this problem is to remove the combination meter and replace the 100uf capacitor on the back of the combination meter with a 220uf capacitor and that will fix that problem permanently. I've done this many times for customers. The problem with the 100uf capacitor is it can't stand up to the temperature changes in between 70°-120° at all. Even rapid fluctuating temperatures affect that one capacitor. Don't take it to the dealer. All they will do is replace the whole combination meter instead of fixing the problem with the one capacitor. I rebuild these for customers constantly and none of my customers have had a problem since. Also when these go blank like this you lose the ability to track your oil life and your mileage.
The dash display goes out when I turn on the headlights
OMG. THANK YOU!!
Man with all of our advanced engineering and modern technology we'd be unstoppable if we could actually design just one vehicle that didn't overly rely on advanced engineering and modern technology.
Omfg. Does anyone have an actual “Fix” or even a diagnosis other then this stupid workaround? So annoying
Turned out really great. What a great looking map!
Thanks a bunch!
very good location choice for a map and looks super nice! husky raid?
thank you, we spent a lot of time on the map. It is a husky raid map
Our hard work finally finished
I’ve tried every fix on every video. None work except the unhook the big white connector at positive battery terminal in back for 45 seconds at least. That works most, or at least some, of the time. Getting worse. So I guess it’s time to pull the cluster gauge and replace a 10 cent capacitor
Do you have to press the brake when you press the power button at the end?
o7
That did not work.
On my civic only the driver speaker works. The other three just stopped working out of nowhere. I checked the wires going from out the stereo to the speaker and there’s power. But I checked the wires that connect to the speakers and there’s no power so somewhere in between it is loosing power. I checked all the fuses and they are all good
Mine had 211k and it has happened 5 or 6 times since hitting 200k
Very helpful 😊 really appreciate
thank you! I tried the other methods, they did not work. this one worked for me!
Get to the point dude
Yeah, I'd change the air filter, clean the throttle body and the mass airflow sensor and change the fuel filter. And go from there.
I’ll try to check mine. Thanks for this !
it worked, thank u so much
Didn’t work
Check crank position sensor siring harness also
I hope this work because my turn on a couple of days ago but it automatically turned off and it doesn’t want to turn on anymore i just got this honda so im trying to make it into a project car
When pressing the power button, foot on the brakes or no?
I was having the same problem. Research led me to believe it's the capacitor. My workaround had been to disconnect the 12V battery in trunk; then reconnect it. This works but began to be more of a nuisance. I decided to wire a light -switch (common AC light switch 120V/15A found cheaply in hardware stores) with a short length of wire (common lamp-wire 14-gauge). Wired between grounding screw and ground wire to battery. This method allows easy access to disconnect/reconnect battery (i.e. reset electrical system). Capacitors acts to reduce ripple effect on the voltage. The main problem seems to be as the original capacitor(s) degrade over time, they may no longer reliably reduce the initial ripple (upon startup) to allow the computer to fully initialize; hence the multifunction display isn't brought online. While the light-switch was a fairly easy, quick, and cheap workaround, it seems to also have resolved the issue! Perhaps the addition of the switch and wiring induces a small measure of capacitance? In any case, I haven't had that issue again in months, if it recurs I can reset via the switch. Note: I folded the excess metal of switch and used electrical tape wrapped around it to form protective 'wings' so switch doesn't accidentally get switched OFF. Works great!
*_My radio recently started acting up as well. Gotta see what's causing it so I can have music again 🥹_*
No fix it
Video starts at 1:03
From my understanding, it is more common that the cars that do not have the convenience key do this and it's quite rare that the cars that have the convenience key functionality actually do this.
When you say 'convenience key functionality, I assume you mean a 'smart key'. The type that unlocks the car when you are close to the door and will start without putting the key fob into the slot. Well I hate to differ with you. I have a 2008 second gen Prius. with smart key functionality and the dash lights have gone out three times on me. This time was after the car had sat for a month and drained the 12 V battery. I trickle charged it overnight and when I started the car, no dash lights.
Helped my 2000 Acura integra really appreciate the video
Mine runs idles perfect but shuts off when I put it in gear
Does not work for my 2009 Prius
Praying for this, my car has sat almost two years and im just finishing some things to get it road legal again and the stereo(absolutely banging turn of the century system) isnt getting power. I so hope this works so my big road trip im going on will be filled with tunes
2007 base model Prius. Did not work. Brand new battery installed. Still black dash 😢
Life saver thank you!!
Thanks. Very useful
These impalas may just be the worst invention ever I have changed everything and when I slow down it starts running rough and sputtering
It works. Thank you!
Didn’t work for me 😭
Nice this worked while another youtube fix didnt. Thanks
My radio for some reason buzzes when i drive and turn the radio off but when i turn it on i hear no buzz but i have no sound in speakers
This happened to me recently and I fixed it with a different hack from yours but will save your video too as an option. However, I did notice that now the dash light doesn't change intensity anymore when I switch the headlights on and off like it used to. Have you noticed that too? Thanks
My Prius has been getting worse with these fixes not working. I tried Turtle's fix. It didn't work. not his fault! I ordered the capacitor and a soldering iron from Amazon. Took out my dash today and replaced the capacitor. I put it all back together and it seems to be fixed...Permanently!!! I wish everyone of you Prius owners best wishes!
I wouldn't say this is a permanent fix as capacitors can and do do degrade through time, this fault could return in the future. It all depends on the quality of capacitors used, but at least you should have a dependable repair. BTW I have been a qualified Auto electrician for 32 years.
My man this comment save me 600$ you are the best prius mechanic ever, you are amazing, i’ve change it today and finally it’s working
@TheModelator I was having the same problem. Research led me to believe it's the capacitor. My workaround had been to disconnect the 12V battery in trunk; then reconnect it. This works but began to be more of a nuisance. I decided to wire a light -switch (common AC light switch 120V/15A found cheaply in hardware stores) with a short length of wire (common lamp-wire 14-gauge). Wired between grounding screw and ground wire to battery. This method allows easy access to disconnect/reconnect battery (i.e. reset electrical system). Capacitors acts to reduce ripple effect on the voltage. The main problem seems to be as the original capacitor(s) degrade over time, they may no longer reliably reduce the initial ripple (upon startup) to allow the computer to fully initialize; hence the multifunction display isn't brought online. While the light-switch was a fairly easy, quick, and cheap workaround, it seems to also have resolved the issue! Perhaps the addition of the switch and wiring induces a small measure of capacitance? In any case, I haven't had that issue again in months, if it recurs I can reset via the switch. Note: I folded the excess metal of switch and used electrical tape wrapped around it to form protective 'wings' so switch doesn't accidentally get switched OFF. Works great!
@@IsRealIsraEl-lq7xrmake a video
Thankkkkas
This video just safe me today. Thank You very much 😊
I have the same issue