To those familiar with the cement board product this video was spot on but to someone trying to understand you need a visual comparison of acceptable vs unacceptable on same video to simplify the educational process! Some of us have no clue without yet another visual!
I have 19 year old Hardie plank and Hardie individual shingles (old pattern) on my house. I caulked the butt joints and caulked above the trim blocks of the hose bibs and lights with OSI Quad and have had very little issues. The butt joint caulk needs a little touch up every 7 years or so, but otherwise I see no problem at all. Live in western WA with 55 inches of rain a year and often have weeks of winter with 99% humidity outside. I paint it every 10 years with Sherwin Williams Duration. Good product, even when not installed to ever-changing specs. edit: I face nailed many planks and shingles to get it to lay flat using 15ga. finish nails set deep and caulked over - no issues nearly 2 decades later.
This guy is an ritzy elitist everything that's wrong with the industry . As always his solution bow to the handyman overlord you stupid homeowner. Disgusting 🤣. Thank you for your input sir . His solution pay me 25 grand to put it in . Dirtbag.
I live in WA as well, don't like this product due to too much movement when the sun gets up. Some boards actually bend. Next time will be getting concrete ones.
Notice this install…it is against Hardie specifications to not use authentic James Hardie nails and specialized James Hardie plastic shims and James Hardie authentic caulk and James Hardie flashing and James Hardie touch up paint and James Hardy contractors and James Hardie houses located within the perimeter of a James Hardy owned municipality. The violation of any of these requirements will void your warranty. Thanks for using James Hardie. We reserve the right to change or augment our specifications at any time. Or, you can use cedar or brick. Thank you for your time.
I’ve been installing siding for 42 years, vinyl and cement fiber. I install aluminum strips behind each butt joint and overlap the row below, just like they use to do with the old cement shingle siding. (Tar strips) No caulking of but joints necessary, and no water penetration possible.
The Hardi Plank siding,, pre coloured,, was originally sold with both the touch up paint AND the broad nose applicator. that Hardi applicator left touch up marks exactly as you see there. The new applicator is a tiny tip. It delivers a single drop of paint for the nail heads. Throw the old broad applicators away.
@@cengeb the original Hardy deign was better, before they started adding the nailing hem, that way you could flip the panel either way, which made it easier to eliminate wasted product. I also preferred the sharp edge over the new rounded version.
@Brian Liebel the bottom exposed rounded bottom edge give a better drip edge as it's protruding just a tad more much more finished higher end look. Simple sharp cut edges looks cheaper
I am pretty sure, outlets, vents, bibbs, should all be treated with flashing on the top edges, just like a window. No cauliking on flashingThe flashing should be under WRB. This allows water in liquid form to escape from behind cladding and WRB fullfills its function. The colorplus has touch up paint with exact match. Pinning is sometimes necessary. If between nailing surfaces I use very small stainless wood screw which holds well to underlayment. And yes I pilot hole and countersink. This allows for fine adjustment. I cover with Dri dex or acrylic cement to hide.
@@carolinaexteriors3134 Any experience with Hardie deck? We have a hardie deck and want to sand and repaint, the big inconvenience I am looking at is the snap in plastic dividers!? Do I leave them on and mask, then paint or do I remove them, label each one so I know what crack to put them back into and then paint and then put the inserts back in again? (Would be easier maintenance with wood or composite decking, without the inserts I believe?
I have James Hardie Siding and Trim. I have been very happy with it. Its been on for 17 years. I had it painted after 11 years. I have replace after 15 years some of the trim areas with AZEK. The Trim and Fasica boards as well as the Hardie siding will succumb to moister and water or snow over time if it cannot drain off and dry. Its not an install issue or issue with caulk. Its just an issue with the way these few areas sit and now snow and moister hit those areas. For example its around copulas and dormers. The left side that faces the sun and warms and dry's has never had an issue, the right side of all three both the plank board and the trim had to be replace from water damage. Really its was just accumulation of snow and it sitting up there on that side for days, weeks and this year about a month, but over several years it finally caused the boards to chip and expand and start to fall apart. Keeping out the moisture like in all products is key. Once moisture finds it way into the board it will deteriorate. Expecting it to happen again, I replaced the trim with AzerTek, it appears identical.... and made sure I really sealed up the Hardei board so I know I get at least 10 years .. but more this time...
That siding looks to be the same as mine with the terrible touch-ups, I use iron grey JH90-30 touch up on those spots and then used a magic eraser to take off the slight shine to match my 5 year old siding. The spots are now almost invisible.
So 1/4 inch clearance and then caulk? I think with my experience with hardi plank is sometimes they dont lay flat against wall. So the only thing that can be done is put a nail / screw in towards the bottom of the plank to pull it in. I admit it looks bad but It is either that or have some of the planks sticking out when you sight down the wall. Have you had any problems with wind getting under the plank and blowing them off? I live in a high wind area, 50 - 90 mph santa ana winds in so cal,. is common
1/4” Clearance above the required blocking (hose bibs, lights, outlets, etc.). 1/4” clearance above over flashing windows (excluding windows with j-channel) and doors. Clearances are NOT to be caulked as caulk traps water behind the cladding. Regarding bowing siding, that’s likely irregular studs / framing that is transferring through. You can control that with the pin backs as shown in this video. However, if using ColorPlus siding, the pin backs must be touched in using the touch up kits provided by James Hardie. We always recommend using 2 1/2” finish nails for pin backs. For additional information on area specific installation specifications, you can refer to this link: www.jameshardiepros.com/
My wife and I are actually looking at a log home that has Hardie Plank on the outside to preserve the logs and cut down on the maintenance of the logs. Is there things we need to look for or should catch our eye when looking at the siding? We want to make sure it was installed properly. Thanks.
So an installer told me that JH says they should also face nail when on 1/2 OSB. Is that your understanding? I certainly do not want touch up paint over nail heads at every joint area
Great video. I’m planning on doing the switch from vinyl siding to James Hardie. My question is do you have a video of a project home with those 3 issues being correctly done?
The JH best practice manual is widely available in English and Spanish. ASK your James Hardie tech rep to recommend installers...they should be able to help
I see you’re calling those nails pin backs. I understand what they’re used for. Do they work well and is that a good idea? I’m not talking about the paint issue just the pin back themselves. I would sure like someone to let me know that knows about this sort of thing, please leave me a comment. Thank you.
It's self explanatory. Leave a 1/4 gap, don't caulk the header flashing and use the correct touchup paint that they sell and not just paint from the store.
Great video, Clifton. Excellent info. I believe I have James Hardie Siding and I am getting a lot of cracking at the butt joints and also many planks are cracking where they have been nailed on the corner. Was this perhaps an improper nailing method or improper nails used? I have this issue on just the east and north side of my home. West side and South side appears to look good. I am in Interior Alaska as well. House is 10 years old. Perhaps the extreme cold does play a fact in this as well. Thank you.
Hello James, thanks for the comment. As James Hardie products are “Engineered for Climate” they have varying installation specifications based on geography. I would consult this site for additional information as it pertains to your specific area. Thanks. www.jameshardiepros.com/
JH has zone specific products, also installation is key....ya have to have it done by a JH certified contractor, to have it done right...i just had my house front and back done in color Plus and the joints and cuts are PERFECT, and painted after being cut, and butt joints have the flashing behind all of them....installation is key, you wouldn't want a Chevy worker assembling a Porsche
My home has hardy board and it is not even 10 years old It now needs repainted and repairs to loose boards Not happy with product The builder says it is not his problem as pass warranty and the manufacturer say not their problem as it is the installation problem? They do not stand behind there product
Hello there, my builder is just about to start the installation of my Hardie Board siding & told me the other day that if the material isn't painted after application it voids the warranty, has anyone else heard of that ? (locaton is in NW Ontario Canada.) Thanks.
I believe that only applies to the pre primed product. This is the same product only it is pre finished so you would not need to paint this particular line of siding.
The color plus siding literally comes with a touch up kit. This kit Includes a needle like applicator for nail heads, so you don’t have that leopard finish you see here. Looks like they used the foam head applicator that is used for sealing any cut edges on the hardi board. Sure hope they home owner got everything fixed at the original contractors cost.
You are correct. Unfortunately, as is the case often with “new construction” installation, which is focussed on speed, installers don’t take the time to do a quality touch up job.
I wonder how installing this product on a rain screen would change up the requirements for gaps above penetrations or box outs? Would seem like the required 1/4" gap would be of minimal concern if you water could run down to the bottom and escape there.
I have over 65 cracks in my hardy board a Malfunction in the material put in the hardy plank Aulura going to be held responsible and faded badly house is only 9 years old !!! Contacted them four years ago no response
Clifton - Installing Hardie board right now. We have had to have some pin nailing as well. Is is a Hardie requirement to have the small holes caused by the pin nailing filled with the Hardie kit application squeeze bottle (as mentioned in a few other comments) where a single drop of color matched paint is applied? Thanks.
You actually can caulk. The guy in the video seems to just have taken info at face value and not asked why. With James Hardie, you have seams. Used to, you would caulk these seams. Well this was a lot of time and work. So they changed it to where all the installer has to do is put a square piece of tin behind where two board ends meet. They say because of performance blah blah. It's really just a fast way to install and move on and also an easier way to sell because they can tell homeowners oh there is minimal upkeep! You CAN caulk, you'll jut have to maintain it.
we had hardie siding installed and the contractor caulked the joints. now theres caulk residue around the joints and it looks terrible. any idea how to get rid of the residue? should i remove the caulking from the joints?
Depending on how long it’s been since it was installed, you may be able to submit a warranty claim with the contractor. Otherwise you will have to re-paint. Sorry you are dealing with this issue, but it’s not a product issue, but rather an install issue.
@@carolinaexteriors3134 thanks for the super fast answer. It's only been like 2 years since installation. I know he flashed behind the joints, should i remove the caulk he put in between them? its cracked since install.
Hardie siding is subpar for all the reasons shown in this video. This is not a product that, when installed correctly, is good. It is inherently the wrong type of material for clapboard style siding. You get what you pay for, and in a situation like clapboard siding, what you should pay for is Cedar.
In my state professional installers are never used. They pick up undocumented people from other countries with no training and they are shown briefly how to use nail guns, etc. Therefore there are no good installations. I spent a fortune and had people who could not speak the language so I could not communicate with them. I showed them how they missed studs completely for siding because my interior wall was down for repairs. I was ignored and the row of nails was finished missing the rest of the stud entirely. I try to do all my own work because of this because at least I watch RUclips videos before I attempt installation.
people from this country (I assume the United states) are just as untrained and careless. I payed a contractor to install my roof and ended up having to fix a good amount of things due to thier lack of concern. They missed studs when attaching sheeting , left facia detached in areas and left the boots off of vent pipes. I payed these people $10,000 for a fairly small project. Also hired an electrician that I had to follow through and fix every single receptical in my house because the connections were all loose. So, just saying It's not just brown people or people from other countries that don't speak your language that don't know what the f they are doing. It's also the so called professionals
I came close to having Cement Fiber Siding on my home but decided against it due to concerns in cracking, moisture, expansion, and at top of the list earthquakes. If someone can show me some positive data concerning my concerns I may revisit the idea of Cement Fiber Board siding.
I understand in a perfect world Hardie Board could last 50 years, but in order for that to happen you still need keep up with a routine maintenance, which means doing what all wood siding homes need also, typically washing and painting every 7 to 10 years on average. So I ask, other than new siding esthetics and fire resistant what or where is the advantage in cement siding? I’m still going to need to maintain Hardie Board like I do my existing wood sided house and I’ll still need to go back to washing, stripping, and painting every 7 to 10 years! So again where is the benefit? Also, Hardie Boards is three times the cost of a new paint job. My home is over 80 years old and it’s gone through 6 earthquakes in the range of magnitude 5.1 to 7.1, the largest being Loma Prieta at 7.1 in 1989. Damage to my home was minimal. My question here is would have Hardie Board withstood these quakes? I’ve seen no Data as of yet! Bottom line is I have to many doubts, and until they put a home rapped with Hardie Board on a earthquake shaker table I’ll continue to paint. 🙂
@@cengeb I was at this for around 3 months, reading and looking at what seems most if not all pros, cons, videos, and websites. Believe me, I appreciate your thoughts but it's going to take more then warranties and a few pros like bugs, paint, and fire that will change my mind, especially here in earthquake country. I'm sure It's a good product, but it's just not for me at this time. Again thanks for the response and hope Hardie will continue to meet all your expectations friend. 🙂
I installed james hardie in a neighborhood this year was my first big siding job as a subcontractor. most of the subs I was working with were not doing their diligence in terms of following james hardie warranty guidelines. we had alot of old drunk types that didn't want to use the cement shears for our health as tradesmen but then they weren't putting in the butt flashing or joint flashing. the other problem we ran into was the fact that our stud layout was changing because of the poor job of the framers and especially when the crew substituted OSB with fireboard type material we needed to shoot our ringshanks directly in studs everytime. long story short, james hardie plank is not "idiot proof" in terms of installation. sure vinyl and LP are not idiot proof either but for james hardie there are more variables (at least than vinyl) that can lead to probable failure of the fasteners down the road. I would suggest from my experience that you make sure you guys are using paslode tetra grip hardie nails instead of the common ring shank. its more pricey but the hardie nail is gonna help secure that material to the house regardless of error in layout by the siding installers in figuring layout. the hardie nail is also gonna prevent installers from accidentally puncturing water lines, etc. in the house. unless you have a good crew that is dilligent and not burned out because of GC's working them hard due to labor shortage, I would stay with a cheaper siding and make sure that your installers are being dilligent in keeping you with that warranty.
@@flyincoyote3810 Agree with you, we have many houses around the neighborhood with vinyl but I don't care for the look they give the house, so no vinyl for us. I decided to repaint my house, continue searching for answers, and keeping an eye on my neighbors James Hardie house. Thanks to everyone for the replies!!
Hmm...Hardie didn't require a larger gap untill 2008 or so, prior it was an 1/8 and they recommended caulking. Hopefully you didn't take the lady to the cleaners, on a standard caulking job. Also, face nailing was an acceptable practice. The siding looks old and sun beaten, and it looks like it was touched up with the proper color.
well, I have to follow and agreed with JH installation instruction. But the 1/4" gaps they look terrible and 100% of our customer they signed a waiver and we do 1/8". I'm not a big fan of caulking for this application, but makes it look nicer!
My experience has been if you close up that gap that it can lead to failure of the siding above the flashing and necessitate a repair. I have my home done in Hardy and we hardly notice the gaps and we have never had an issue with water infiltration.
Question: I have heard that here in New England, Hardie siding expands and contracts a lot with our wild weather swings, leaving noticeable gaps. Does this apply to vertical siding, as well. I am interested in using board and batten on some commercial real estate we own in a highly visible area. Thanks!
cement fiber does not expand and contract, the substrate wood behind the Hardie does...thus proper installation says 1/8" gaps and 1/4" gaps in other spots...and proper Flashing, and proper nailing,
@@bgt63 nope, fiber cement doesn't contract and expand....proper installation says 1/8" gap, flashing behind each joint, all cut edges painted with the Hardie paint kits...None of my Hardie has gaps, beyond spec, nor are they closed, which is also wrong and it was installed in October
It looks like it us expanding bc the plywood or OSB it is nailed into is swelling- your house wrap has either deteriorated, improper flashing, but moisture is trapped between siding and substrate.
Yo for a professional hardie board installer this was a terrible video did you look behind the seams and see if there was metal flashing on every seam they did? Did you explain why there has to be a quarter inch gap between anything it touches is it because of expansion? Which I disagree with who wants water and bugs getting behind the system? I’m definitely no professional hardie board installer but I’ve seen videos that show proper installation on hardy boards RUclips channel.
We got a new build because I didn't want to inherit headaches & didn't have the time for them. Big mistake. It's been nothing but problems. The newest one is with our siding. A piece blew off in a windstorm & the builder won't do anything about it. Says it's out of warrant (16months). The offending piece is about 18ft up & don't have a ladder that tall. I got quotes from 2 contractors & neither would replace just the one piece saying the whole install was done incorrectly & want around 50k to redo it. The biggest problem w/our siding is the bowed pieces & the (lack of) pin backs. I can fit my finger in some of the gaps. I have a rental home that has the same siding & it was done correctly. It has never given me a single problem & it's in a higher wind area than the new build.
Thanks for the video, I have some gap between the Hardieplank and the foundation blocks which is normal, but since spiders, ants and other bugs are crawling in and out, I like to fill it with expanding foam. is there anything wrong with doing that? thanks
Have you found an answer to your question from a professional installer yet? Please share it here if you do. I am wondering if the expanding foam might be capable of pushing out the siding, or trapping water behind the planks.
@@misterlyle. the type of foam you use is important, you have to make sure it's not expanding a lot or pushing the sliding out, I used GREATSTUFF and happy with it. I also left some areas open like on top of the little sliding plastic windows we have to let the humidity of basement come out, like every 10 ft or so I leave some area WITHOUT foam. so this way back of the hardieplank with breathe and water won't get clogged on top of foam.
Yes. The foam isnt uv protected and will fail and absorb water and wick it up into the wall cavity. The correct answer is the install a strip at the bottom behind the siding to rest the bottom piece on. If gaps still exist use a high stretch caulk against the foundation/trim and siding joint. Pro tip: we use a 24" by 4" mirror to see what we are doing when it close to the ground.
Should all the horizontal runs of sidings be caulked( where each siding meets the one on top or below)? I'd asked 3 different handyman/contractor and I got 3 different answers. I know the 1st row/BOTTOM row should never be caulked as its where water drains out, but what about the rest? Thanks in advance ..
In certain situations caulking the bottom when it falls below the bottom plate on slab on grade buipds it is bvb the better of bad choices if vermin or bug infestation is a possible issue.
@@carolinaexteriors3134 🤣 you better let the boys in East Texas know that…. I thought it was very odd… but the painters out there caulking EVERY lap…. For DAYS. 🤣
Eventually Painting it is the best solution. Technically a homeowner could ask the installer to pay for the paint job, but a good James Hardie installer does not make these mistakes. Typically it is because the customer hired a less proven team or a bad company.
The absolute main concern is siders who don't prime and paint the cut edges before installation. If you leave cut edges exposed they will suck moisture from rainfall and snow sitting against those areas.
@goofsaddggkle7351 Want to bet on that. I spent the last 52 years as a roofing contractor and I have repaired a lot of cement siding that did just that. You think that cut edges don't absorb moisture.? Really?
Sometimes Installation its not PAID enough cause most of time companies paid too much money in office people and project managers. WE DO THE BEST WE CAN WITH THE MONEY WE GET , INSTALATION CREWS MUST BE A PRIORITY TO CONTRACTOR'S TO NOT HAVE THOSE ISSUES
Hey, if the siding has been pinned back already, there's really no way to fix it, right? Hardie basically says only nail through the overlap (rather than underneath it) if you are in a hurricane prone area -- and if so, nail with flush headed nails 3/8ths of an inch from the corners of butt joints only. Is that how you understand it?
If you nail within 3/8" from the corner, that corner is going to snap off. Also in my area, which is the gulf coast, windstorm ins and city inspectors want the bottoms nailed also. They dont say how much but after a hurricane wind will get under that siding and pull it off from the bottom.
Moisture finds its way behind all exterior wall cladding (vinyl, fiber cement, etc.). Without a moisture barrier installed over the exterior wall sheathing, your exterior walls, framing, insulation, etc. are susceptible to damage. The 1/4” clearance we reference in this video allows the moIsture to drain from behind the cladding, protecting the structure.
Does the siding need to be painted when the installers make a cut prior to butting up against the next board be it another piece of siding or trim. ? Or is it okay not to have any paint on the butt cuts help appreciated
Thank you for the video. Any access through any of your contacts, anywhere, to James Hardie Artisan Siding, Smooth, 8-1/4, Lap. I am desperately searching for 2,300 sq ft. Maybe you can call in a favor - I know it's not being manufactured, but maybe theres some out there!!! HELP.
My current siding repair guy said it wasn't possible to install without it cracking. Then his idiot workers tore all the insulation out of my exterior wall. Then they killed the grass.
Why not provide good solid information so that a handy DIY person can install it. As always measure twice and cut once and watch 437 videos before starting but it should be quite doable for DIY. Thanks for this video as it is helpful.
Thanks for the feedback. ColorPlus is a specialized installation process and unless the handy DIY’er also had several other sets of “handy” hands, it might prove difficult to install. Stay in touch by subscribing to our channel, we’ve got a lot of things in the works you might be interested in.
It's not DIY, ya need experience, correct tools, only one authorized saw blade Diablo, and get Gecko tool to space properly, and cut the flashing properly, bend Z flashing, not DIY...the Quad caulking made to match color , the stuff is HEAVY, not a DIY product
It is good that you point out the install procedure, but it would be a benefit to your viewers if you made it less of a plug for your company and more of a useful tool for the people who click on your video. Lots of people look to RUclips for install advice and not so much for sourcing installers. Just a thought. It came off as a sales tool for one specific company.
With all due respect, Hardies install specs are like New Orleans weather, give it a minute and it will Change. It’s a great product, but they set installers up for failure because many specs leave a less than desirable finish.
Please help stop these contractors I was a carpenter never given protection or even warned of the dangers when dry drilling into concrete and dry cutting fiber cement board siding now I have scarring in my lungs and worry everyday I will die from silicosis with no hope no cure no treatments everyday across the subdivisions in Jacksonville there are people still dry cutting and dry drilling into concrete it has turned my entire life upside down and wish 1 person would have told me so I could have left immediately I reported this to osha and nothing was done the contractor still do it to this day. Please help stop this its killing a lot of us I don't understand why the contractors are not criminally charged for this
So you're telling me if you leave that quarter inch Gap above the drip cap the water is not going to run behind the siding and leak in I think it is I would clock that I would leave a gap but I would call it from behind so the water can't get in there and get behind the siding
highest quality siding available. Why would any one buy an expensive car or HOUSE, when there are cheaper less quality ones? Heck, when ya buy the good stuff ya have the pros install it, not DIY...why buy 50 year OC Premium duration shingles, when ya can get cheaper ones, that don't have specs to be met when installed
The clearance requirement is to allow water exit from behind the siding over windows, doors and blocks instead of forcing water behind the cladding. I’ve never seen a 1/4” clearance worsen over time.
@@carolinaexteriors3134 I also notice that the cut edges on hardie never really hold paint all to well over time , and when it starts getting wet it just falls apart from the bottom,if everything is flashed properly no water should get behind the siding and then I feel ok caulking the cutouts
I live in a wet climate. 20-30 inches of rain per year. I disagree that moisture just normally builds up behind siding. I have demoed a lot of siding and I dont really find moisture between house wrap and siding unless something has failed. I feel like leaving large uncaulked gaps above flashing for water to get out is akin to putting a floor drain inside of your house in case your roof leaks.
Hi Alan, thanks for commenting. Curious, what material / product specifically would have recommended to this homeowner? Reminder - our company didn’t install this siding, we were simply asked to assess.
@@carolinaexteriors3134 just by reading up on it lil bit, has way too many issues with installation and longevity..id recommend a high end vinyl siding.. I've been a carpenter/woodworker/ cabinetmaker/ contractor for 35 yrs
@@clinttorres2508 Going to install siding on my house in 2 weeks..was thinking about installing James Hardie but after reading up on all their issues, I have decided to go with Vinyl as well. I am sure Vinyl has its own set of problems. But I'm not willing to pay for the additional cost to install JH.
@@mikef2811 yes like moisture build up. one of my neighbors added vinyl siding and the wood behind the siding ended up rotting. Here on the gulf coast its not advised or used anymore. The thing about these videos., whats good for one part of the country, isnt good for another part. ask your local builders. Hardy is a great product.
Gave a thumbs down, I watched to learn, and didn't learn. WHAT CLEARANCE are you talking about, and why is caulk not the best practice? Maybe explain these points in next video for a thumbs up.
this siding is junk made a mistake purchasing this instead of lp smartside ,James Hardie is brittle for being fiber cement it needs to be water proofed like crazy its like water cant touch this stuff only paint layer protecting it, left some pieces out in yard after install 3 weeks of rain/sun laying on ground this stuff just breaks apart like nothing. definitely don't feel good about this investment dont think it will make it anywhere near as the original lp/wood siding my house had.
Mfg INSTRUCTIONS plainly tell you DON'T leave on ground in wet etc etc etc, FOLLOW instructions, it comes on a skid, and the things need to have a tarp over it, since the hardi wrrap ain't water proof, FOLLOW instructions..
You basically complain but don't show how to properly install what others did wrong in any of your videos. Get yourself a Hardie manual, read it, learn the how tos and stop hating on others.
So-called "professionals" want a MINT for their labor. DI Yourselfers do better work than this. I just bet a so-called "professional" did this SHODDY work. How much?
To those familiar with the cement board product this video was spot on but to someone trying to understand you need a visual comparison of acceptable vs unacceptable on same video to simplify the educational process! Some of us have no clue without yet another visual!
It's great when a product comes out and has to revise itself 20 different times throughout the years, it's so helpful.
I have 19 year old Hardie plank and Hardie individual shingles (old pattern) on my house. I caulked the butt joints and caulked above the trim blocks of the hose bibs and lights with OSI Quad and have had very little issues. The butt joint caulk needs a little touch up every 7 years or so, but otherwise I see no problem at all. Live in western WA with 55 inches of rain a year and often have weeks of winter with 99% humidity outside. I paint it every 10 years with Sherwin Williams Duration. Good product, even when not installed to ever-changing specs. edit: I face nailed many planks and shingles to get it to lay flat using 15ga. finish nails set deep and caulked over - no issues nearly 2 decades later.
This guy is an ritzy elitist everything that's wrong with the industry . As always his solution bow to the handyman overlord you stupid homeowner. Disgusting 🤣. Thank you for your input sir . His solution pay me 25 grand to put it in . Dirtbag.
I live in WA as well, don't like this product due to too much movement when the sun gets up. Some boards actually bend. Next time will be getting concrete ones.
@@sov19871987 never heard of concrete siding I know these are fiber cement blend.
Take off a few panels and see all that blow out from nails and moisture damage
Notice this install…it is against Hardie specifications to not use authentic James Hardie nails and specialized James Hardie plastic shims and James Hardie authentic caulk and James Hardie flashing and James Hardie touch up paint and James Hardy contractors and James Hardie houses located within the perimeter of a James Hardy owned municipality. The violation of any of these requirements will void your warranty. Thanks for using James Hardie. We reserve the right to change or augment our specifications at any time. Or, you can use cedar or brick. Thank you for your time.
I’ve been installing siding for 42 years, vinyl and cement fiber. I install aluminum strips behind each butt joint and overlap the row below, just like they use to do with the old cement shingle siding. (Tar strips) No caulking of but joints necessary, and no water penetration possible.
Corect, Hardie says do not caulk butt joints, eh caulking will look like crap over time. they have al flashing behind each joint, correct
Would have been great to have a pic of what it should look like.
The Hardi Plank siding,, pre coloured,, was originally sold with both the touch up paint AND the broad nose applicator. that Hardi applicator left touch up marks exactly as you see there. The new applicator is a tiny tip. It delivers a single drop of paint for the nail heads. Throw the old broad applicators away.
The broad tip touch up is for cut edges, all cut edges must be painted sealed...before installing
@@cengeb the original Hardy deign was better, before they started adding the nailing hem, that way you could flip the panel either way, which made it easier to eliminate wasted product. I also preferred the sharp edge over the new rounded version.
@@brianliebel3257 rounded edge holds paint bettet
@@brianliebel3257 factory painted is the best way to get Hardie you will never paint on site like baked on factory paint.
@Brian Liebel the bottom exposed rounded bottom edge give a better drip edge as it's protruding just a tad more much more finished higher end look. Simple sharp cut edges looks cheaper
I am pretty sure, outlets, vents, bibbs, should all be treated with flashing on the top edges, just like a window. No cauliking on flashingThe flashing should be under WRB. This allows water in liquid form to escape from behind cladding and WRB fullfills its function. The colorplus has touch up paint with exact match. Pinning is sometimes necessary. If between nailing surfaces I use very small stainless wood screw which holds well to underlayment. And yes I pilot hole and countersink. This allows for fine adjustment. I cover with Dri dex or acrylic cement to hide.
Correct and good info, thanks for sharing David.
@@carolinaexteriors3134 Any experience with Hardie deck? We have a hardie deck and want to sand and repaint, the big inconvenience I am looking at is the snap in plastic dividers!? Do I leave them on and mask, then paint or do I remove them, label each one so I know what crack to put them back into and then paint and then put the inserts back in again? (Would be easier maintenance with wood or composite decking, without the inserts I believe?
Mine was installed by the best people, but they’re long gone and no one around here has been able to answer my questions
I have James Hardie Siding and Trim. I have been very happy with it. Its been on for 17 years. I had it painted after 11 years. I have replace after 15 years some of the trim areas with AZEK.
The Trim and Fasica boards as well as the Hardie siding will succumb to moister and water or snow over time if it cannot drain off and dry. Its not an install issue or issue with caulk. Its just an issue with the way these few areas sit and now snow and moister hit those areas. For example its around copulas and dormers. The left side that faces the sun and warms and dry's has never had an issue, the right side of all three both the plank board and the trim had to be replace from water damage. Really its was just accumulation of snow and it sitting up there on that side for days, weeks and this year about a month, but over several years it finally caused the boards to chip and expand and start to fall apart. Keeping out the moisture like in all products is key. Once moisture finds it way into the board it will deteriorate. Expecting it to happen again, I replaced the trim with AzerTek, it appears identical.... and made sure I really sealed up the Hardei board so I know I get at least 10 years .. but more this time...
That siding looks to be the same as mine with the terrible touch-ups, I use iron grey JH90-30 touch up on those spots and then used a magic eraser to take off the slight shine to match my 5 year old siding. The spots are now almost invisible.
Great feedback and idea.
I was thinking of doing something similar. Do you have a tutorial, or pictures of how it looks after a year?
What about the cocking in the joints. I think you Miss out made a mention something about it. To me needs to be cocking too.
So 1/4 inch clearance and then caulk? I think with my experience with hardi plank is sometimes they dont lay flat against wall. So the only thing that can be done is put a nail / screw in towards the bottom of the plank to pull it in. I admit it looks bad but It is either that or have some of the planks sticking out when you sight down the wall. Have you had any problems with wind getting under the plank and blowing them off? I live in a high wind area, 50 - 90 mph santa ana winds in so cal,. is common
1/4” Clearance above the required blocking (hose bibs, lights, outlets, etc.). 1/4” clearance above over flashing windows (excluding windows with j-channel) and doors.
Clearances are NOT to be caulked as caulk traps water behind the cladding.
Regarding bowing siding, that’s likely irregular studs / framing that is transferring through. You can control that with the pin backs as shown in this video. However, if using ColorPlus siding, the pin backs must be touched in using the touch up kits provided by James Hardie.
We always recommend using 2 1/2” finish nails for pin backs.
For additional information on area specific installation specifications, you can refer to this link:
www.jameshardiepros.com/
No worries ther's always somebody wants to be the Karen of the show. We have to do what it takes to make it look nice! All good!
My wife and I are actually looking at a log home that has Hardie Plank on the outside to preserve the logs and cut down on the maintenance of the logs. Is there things we need to look for or should catch our eye when looking at the siding? We want to make sure it was installed properly. Thanks.
So an installer told me that JH says they should also face nail when on 1/2 OSB. Is that your understanding? I certainly do not want touch up paint over nail heads at every joint area
Great video. I’m planning on doing the switch from vinyl siding to James Hardie. My question is do you have a video of a project home with those 3 issues being correctly done?
Thank you for the feedback. There’s some other videos on our channel regarding installing Hardieplank. We’ll be sharing more in the near future.
Hi, awesome so I have been searching internet to find out if I can install stone on the vinyl siding and convert to stone siding so I saw this video
What do I use to fill in nail holes and repairs before paint?
Ben Moore 100% acrylic is the ONLY paint to use. No problems after 20 years.
The JH best practice manual is widely available in English and Spanish. ASK your James Hardie tech rep to recommend installers...they should be able to help
Thanks, we know the install specifications, unfortunately the contractor that did this install was severely lacking in that category.
Here’s a great resource www.jameshardiepros.com/
I see you’re calling those nails pin backs. I understand what they’re used for. Do they work well and is that a good idea? I’m not talking about the paint issue just the pin back themselves. I would sure like someone to let me know that knows about this sort of thing, please leave me a comment. Thank you.
can u use mr.clena all purpoase cleaner to clean and wash hardie board
Please re do the video and explain on how to address the issues that you pointed out
It's self explanatory. Leave a 1/4 gap, don't caulk the header flashing and use the correct touchup paint that they sell and not just paint from the store.
GREAT VIDEO. Are the painters supposed to caulk the bottom of each board? I appreciate your answer
No! All the “painters” I called insisted in caulking under each board but James hardie handbook says to not do that because it could trap moisture
Can you elobrate for the hardie panel. Same advice?
Have any of you used ben moore 100% acrylic exterior paint on your Hardie board? Did it hold up well? Or did you have any problems?
bought a gallon of their Aura premium exterior paint yesterday, color coded to match Hardie colors
Very nice but how do you prevent pin backs
Great video, Clifton. Excellent info. I believe I have James Hardie Siding and I am getting a lot of cracking at the butt joints and also many planks are cracking where they have been nailed on the corner. Was this perhaps an improper nailing method or improper nails used? I have this issue on just the east and north side of my home. West side and South side appears to look good. I am in Interior Alaska as well. House is 10 years old. Perhaps the extreme cold does play a fact in this as well. Thank you.
Hello James, thanks for the comment. As James Hardie products are “Engineered for Climate” they have varying installation specifications based on geography. I would consult this site for additional information as it pertains to your specific area. Thanks.
www.jameshardiepros.com/
JH has zone specific products, also installation is key....ya have to have it done by a JH certified contractor, to have it done right...i just had my house front and back done in color Plus and the joints and cuts are PERFECT, and painted after being cut, and butt joints have the flashing behind all of them....installation is key, you wouldn't want a Chevy worker assembling a Porsche
@@cengeb we absolutely agree!
@@cengeb ...nor a porsche worker assembling a chevy.
@@danielbuckner2167 what about a pors-vy bludger disassemblig a che-che!
My home has hardy board and it is not even 10 years old
It now needs repainted and repairs to loose boards
Not happy with product
The builder says it is not his problem as pass warranty and the manufacturer say not their problem as it is the installation problem?
They do not stand behind there product
Hello there, my builder is just about to start the installation of my Hardie Board siding & told me the other day that if the material isn't painted after application it voids the warranty, has anyone else heard of that ? (locaton is in NW Ontario Canada.) Thanks.
I believe that only applies to the pre primed product. This is the same product only it is pre finished so you would not need to paint this particular line of siding.
Mine seems to be loose. If I go around and tap on it, the siding clicks and clacks against the one underneath it. Should it all be very secure?
Probably was nailed wrong
The color plus siding literally comes with a touch up kit. This kit Includes a needle like applicator for nail heads, so you don’t have that leopard finish you see here. Looks like they used the foam head applicator that is used for sealing any cut edges on the hardi board.
Sure hope they home owner got everything fixed at the original contractors cost.
You are correct. Unfortunately, as is the case often with “new construction” installation, which is focussed on speed, installers don’t take the time to do a quality touch up job.
I have the color plus siding and they used the touch up kit and the paint faded in less than a year and it looks like crap!
I wonder how installing this product on a rain screen would change up the requirements for gaps above penetrations or box outs? Would seem like the required 1/4" gap would be of minimal concern if you water could run down to the bottom and escape there.
Ya install to hardie instructions, don't re invent the product
Can you post a video of a colorplus job you have done
I have over 65 cracks in my hardy board a Malfunction in the material put in the hardy plank Aulura going to be held responsible and faded badly house is only 9 years old !!! Contacted them four years ago no response
There was a class action lawsuit on Allura products settled in 2021. I will not use their product bc of how they handled these issues.
What do you recommend for attaching Comcast cable to exterior of Hardie Plank!
Clifton - Installing Hardie board right now. We have had to have some pin nailing as well. Is is a Hardie requirement to have the small holes caused by the pin nailing filled with the Hardie kit application squeeze bottle (as mentioned in a few other comments) where a single drop of color matched paint is applied? Thanks.
Looks good to me. Im not a fan of people trying to get work by bashing others. It wasn't that bad actually
You actually can caulk. The guy in the video seems to just have taken info at face value and not asked why. With James Hardie, you have seams. Used to, you would caulk these seams. Well this was a lot of time and work. So they changed it to where all the installer has to do is put a square piece of tin behind where two board ends meet. They say because of performance blah blah. It's really just a fast way to install and move on and also an easier way to sell because they can tell homeowners oh there is minimal upkeep! You CAN caulk, you'll jut have to maintain it.
we had hardie siding installed and the contractor caulked the joints. now theres caulk residue around the joints and it looks terrible. any idea how to get rid of the residue? should i remove the caulking from the joints?
Depending on how long it’s been since it was installed, you may be able to submit a warranty claim with the contractor. Otherwise you will have to re-paint. Sorry you are dealing with this issue, but it’s not a product issue, but rather an install issue.
@@carolinaexteriors3134 thanks for the super fast answer. It's only been like 2 years since installation. I know he flashed behind the joints, should i remove the caulk he put in between them? its cracked since install.
Hardie siding is subpar for all the reasons shown in this video. This is not a product that, when installed correctly, is good. It is inherently the wrong type of material for clapboard style siding. You get what you pay for, and in a situation like clapboard siding, what you should pay for is Cedar.
Great info! Thanks!
In my state professional installers are never used. They pick up undocumented people from other countries with no training and they are shown briefly how to use nail guns, etc. Therefore there are no good installations. I spent a fortune and had people who could not speak the language so I could not communicate with them. I showed them how they missed studs completely for siding because my interior wall was down for repairs. I was ignored and the row of nails was finished missing the rest of the stud entirely. I try to do all my own work because of this because at least I watch RUclips videos before I attempt installation.
*illegal immigrants
Is that Texas ???
people from this country (I assume the United states) are just as untrained and careless. I payed a contractor to install my roof and ended up having to fix a good amount of things due to thier lack of concern. They missed studs when attaching sheeting , left facia detached in areas and left the boots off of vent pipes. I payed these people $10,000 for a fairly small project.
Also hired an electrician that I had to follow through and fix every single receptical in my house because the connections were all loose. So, just saying It's not just brown people or people from other countries that don't speak your language that don't know what the f they are doing. It's also the so called professionals
I’d tell the contractor up front “This is an English Only job site.”
It's cedar mill. You can't patch that without major notice
I came close to having Cement Fiber Siding on my home but decided against it due to concerns in cracking, moisture, expansion, and at top of the list earthquakes. If someone can show me some positive data concerning my concerns I may revisit the idea of Cement Fiber Board siding.
I understand in a perfect world Hardie Board could last 50 years, but in order for that to happen you still need keep up with a routine maintenance, which means doing what all wood siding homes need also, typically washing and painting every 7 to 10 years on average. So I ask, other than new siding esthetics and fire resistant what or where is the advantage in cement siding? I’m still going to need to maintain Hardie Board like I do my existing wood sided house and I’ll still need to go back to washing, stripping, and painting every 7 to 10 years! So again where is the benefit? Also, Hardie Boards is three times the cost of a new paint job. My home is over 80 years old and it’s gone through 6 earthquakes in the range of magnitude 5.1 to 7.1, the largest being Loma Prieta at 7.1 in 1989. Damage to my home was minimal. My question here is would have Hardie Board withstood these quakes? I’ve seen no Data as of yet! Bottom line is I have to many doubts, and until they put a home rapped with Hardie Board on a earthquake shaker table I’ll continue to paint. 🙂
@@cengeb I was at this for around 3 months, reading and looking at what seems most if not all pros, cons, videos, and websites. Believe me, I appreciate your thoughts but it's going to take more then warranties and a few pros like bugs, paint, and fire that will change my mind, especially here in earthquake country. I'm sure It's a good product, but it's just not for me at this time. Again thanks for the response and hope Hardie will continue to meet all your expectations friend. 🙂
I installed james hardie in a neighborhood this year was my first big siding job as a subcontractor. most of the subs I was working with were not doing their diligence in terms of following james hardie warranty guidelines. we had alot of old drunk types that didn't want to use the cement shears for our health as tradesmen but then they weren't putting in the butt flashing or joint flashing. the other problem we ran into was the fact that our stud layout was changing because of the poor job of the framers and especially when the crew substituted OSB with fireboard type material we needed to shoot our ringshanks directly in studs everytime. long story short, james hardie plank is not "idiot proof" in terms of installation. sure vinyl and LP are not idiot proof either but for james hardie there are more variables (at least than vinyl) that can lead to probable failure of the fasteners down the road. I would suggest from my experience that you make sure you guys are using paslode tetra grip hardie nails instead of the common ring shank. its more pricey but the hardie nail is gonna help secure that material to the house regardless of error in layout by the siding installers in figuring layout. the hardie nail is also gonna prevent installers from accidentally puncturing water lines, etc. in the house. unless you have a good crew that is dilligent and not burned out because of GC's working them hard due to labor shortage, I would stay with a cheaper siding and make sure that your installers are being dilligent in keeping you with that warranty.
@@CesarGonzalez-kt7vp can't repaint vinyl and it will look like crap in 10 years
@@flyincoyote3810 Agree with you, we have many houses around the neighborhood with vinyl but I don't care for the look they give the house, so no vinyl for us. I decided to repaint my house, continue searching for answers, and keeping an eye on my neighbors James Hardie house. Thanks to everyone for the replies!!
Hmm...Hardie didn't require a larger gap untill 2008 or so, prior it was an 1/8 and they recommended caulking. Hopefully you didn't take the lady to the cleaners, on a standard caulking job. Also, face nailing was an acceptable practice. The siding looks old and sun beaten, and it looks like it was touched up with the proper color.
well, I have to follow and agreed with JH installation instruction. But the 1/4" gaps they look terrible and 100% of our customer they signed a waiver and we do 1/8". I'm not a big fan of caulking for this application, but makes it look nicer!
My experience has been if you close up that gap that it can lead to failure of the siding above the flashing and necessitate a repair. I have my home done in Hardy and we hardly notice the gaps and we have never had an issue with water infiltration.
Hello. Does flashing between the hardi planks need to be caulk?
Question: I have heard that here in New England, Hardie siding expands and contracts a lot with our wild weather swings, leaving noticeable gaps. Does this apply to vertical siding, as well. I am interested in using board and batten on some commercial real estate we own in a highly visible area. Thanks!
cement fiber does not expand and contract, the substrate wood behind the Hardie does...thus proper installation says 1/8" gaps and 1/4" gaps in other spots...and proper Flashing, and proper nailing,
@@cengebshow me an installation in cold and wet weather, and I will show you gaps when it warms up and dries...
@@bgt63 nope, fiber cement doesn't contract and expand....proper installation says 1/8" gap, flashing behind each joint, all cut edges painted with the Hardie paint kits...None of my Hardie has gaps, beyond spec, nor are they closed, which is also wrong and it was installed in October
It looks like it us expanding bc the plywood or OSB it is nailed into is swelling- your house wrap has either deteriorated, improper flashing, but moisture is trapped between siding and substrate.
Yo for a professional hardie board installer this was a terrible video did you look behind the seams and see if there was metal flashing on every seam they did? Did you explain why there has to be a quarter inch gap between anything it touches is it because of expansion? Which I disagree with who wants water and bugs getting behind the system? I’m definitely no professional hardie board installer but I’ve seen videos that show proper installation on hardy boards RUclips channel.
We got a new build because I didn't want to inherit headaches & didn't have the time for them. Big mistake. It's been nothing but problems.
The newest one is with our siding. A piece blew off in a windstorm & the builder won't do anything about it. Says it's out of warrant (16months). The offending piece is about 18ft up & don't have a ladder that tall. I got quotes from 2 contractors & neither would replace just the one piece saying the whole install was done incorrectly & want around 50k to redo it.
The biggest problem w/our siding is the bowed pieces & the (lack of) pin backs. I can fit my finger in some of the gaps.
I have a rental home that has the same siding & it was done correctly. It has never given me a single problem & it's in a higher wind area than the new build.
Thanks for the video, I have some gap between the Hardieplank and the foundation blocks which is normal, but since spiders, ants and other bugs are crawling in and out, I like to fill it with expanding foam. is there anything wrong with doing that? thanks
Have you found an answer to your question from a professional installer yet? Please share it here if you do. I am wondering if the expanding foam might be capable of pushing out the siding, or trapping water behind the planks.
@@misterlyle. the type of foam you use is important, you have to make sure it's not expanding a lot or pushing the sliding out, I used GREATSTUFF and happy with it. I also left some areas open like on top of the little sliding plastic windows we have to let the humidity of basement come out, like every 10 ft or so I leave some area WITHOUT foam. so this way back of the hardieplank with breathe and water won't get clogged on top of foam.
@@DataCenterExperts Thanks for your reply! Glad to hear it is working.
Yes. The foam isnt uv protected and will fail and absorb water and wick it up into the wall cavity. The correct answer is the install a strip at the bottom behind the siding to rest the bottom piece on. If gaps still exist use a high stretch caulk against the foundation/trim and siding joint. Pro tip: we use a 24" by 4" mirror to see what we are doing when it close to the ground.
The problem is you can trap water and moisture up against the house
Should all the horizontal runs of sidings be caulked( where each siding meets the one on top or below)?
I'd asked 3 different handyman/contractor and I got 3 different answers.
I know the 1st row/BOTTOM row should never be caulked as its where water drains out, but what about the rest? Thanks in advance ..
Hi thanks for the question - there’s should never be any caulk applied to the bottom edges of the planks.
In certain situations caulking the bottom when it falls below the bottom plate on slab on grade buipds it is bvb the better of bad choices if vermin or bug infestation is a possible issue.
@@carolinaexteriors3134 🤣 you better let the boys in East Texas know that…. I thought it was very odd… but the painters out there caulking EVERY lap…. For DAYS. 🤣
How would the water get out if any got behind there?
Wow this siding sounds like trash! What about penetrating rain?
So what happens when your house ends up like this one shown? Does it all get taken off and corrected by another installer?
Eventually Painting it is the best solution. Technically a homeowner could ask the installer to pay for the paint job, but a good James Hardie installer does not make these mistakes. Typically it is because the customer hired a less proven team or a bad company.
The builder installed mine and the pin backs showed up later
Everyone is a professional until they do something that show.
The absolute main concern is siders who don't prime and paint the cut edges before installation. If you leave cut edges exposed they will suck moisture from rainfall and snow sitting against those areas.
My house was just sided and I doubt the installers primed or painted the edges. Now im very concerned
Its cement board. It doesn’t “suck moisture”. The paint is just for looks.
@goofsaddggkle7351 Want to bet on that. I spent the last 52 years as a roofing contractor and I have repaired a lot of cement siding that did just that. You think that cut edges don't absorb moisture.? Really?
Sometimes Installation its not PAID enough cause most of time companies paid too much money in office people and project managers. WE DO THE BEST WE CAN WITH THE MONEY WE GET , INSTALATION CREWS MUST BE A PRIORITY TO CONTRACTOR'S TO NOT HAVE THOSE ISSUES
Hey, if the siding has been pinned back already, there's really no way to fix it, right? Hardie basically says only nail through the overlap (rather than underneath it) if you are in a hurricane prone area -- and if so, nail with flush headed nails 3/8ths of an inch from the corners of butt joints only. Is that how you understand it?
This is your best resource www.jameshardiepros.com/
If you nail within 3/8" from the corner, that corner is going to snap off. Also in my area, which is the gulf coast, windstorm ins and city inspectors want the bottoms nailed also. They dont say how much but after a hurricane wind will get under that siding and pull it off from the bottom.
Soooo... just gonna pass right over that flashing being short or you didnt notice?
Ha!
but why water get behind the siding in the first place? Becase of those 1/4" gap that you think is should be?
Moisture finds its way behind all exterior wall cladding (vinyl, fiber cement, etc.). Without a moisture barrier installed over the exterior wall sheathing, your exterior walls, framing, insulation, etc. are susceptible to damage. The 1/4” clearance we reference in this video allows the moIsture to drain from behind the cladding, protecting the structure.
@DTOM Gadsden the guy on this video has successfully overseen the installation of 1000’s of Hardie jobs!
What part of the Carolinas y'all stay
Hose bid is not a problem
And water not comes from behind siding if you have water coming from behind flashing is big problem
Same shit that happens with my brand new build. Allura siding. Same thing. Pin backs are only for repairs in the field is what it says in their manual
Best product of all the crap possibilities available these days.
It's not their fault the paint doesn't match, you're supposed to pin it back
Does the siding need to be painted when the installers make a cut prior to butting up against the next board be it another piece of siding or trim.
? Or is it okay not to have any paint on the butt cuts help appreciated
Clifton,
Great education video.
Cheers,
Eric
Dry cutting fiber cement board siding is fatal
It is if you are breathing it for years. Snapping it after scoring works well for more than half the cuts though.
You can use a snipper tool for cutting. Also I believe there is a large shear for cutting full cross cuts.
We just going to ignore the perfectly in-line joint three rows up from each other? Looks terrible
all drip caps should also have 1" end dams
Do you know the color of this siding in the video? TY
Siding Color: Heathered Moss
Trim Color: Sail Cloth
I'm about to install this on my clients house and I'm afraid I may be a chevy installer. I'm scared..... I'm on my thousandth u tube video
Thank you for the video. Any access through any of your contacts, anywhere, to James Hardie Artisan Siding, Smooth, 8-1/4, Lap. I am desperately searching for 2,300 sq ft. Maybe you can call in a favor - I know it's not being manufactured, but maybe theres some out there!!! HELP.
Thank you, unfortunately we do not have access to the materials you need. Good luck.
If you find some Artisan siding, or anyone reading this, that I am able to use, I will pay you a finders fee. Thank you.
My current siding repair guy said it wasn't possible to install without it cracking. Then his idiot workers tore all the insulation out of my exterior wall. Then they killed the grass.
Why not provide good solid information so that a handy DIY person can install it. As always measure twice and cut once and watch 437 videos before starting but it should be quite doable for DIY. Thanks for this video as it is helpful.
Thanks for the feedback. ColorPlus is a specialized installation process and unless the handy DIY’er also had several other sets of “handy” hands, it might prove difficult to install. Stay in touch by subscribing to our channel, we’ve got a lot of things in the works you might be interested in.
....uhhh because this is a commercial for their business and you doing work doesnt bring them any money.
It's not DIY, ya need experience, correct tools, only one authorized saw blade Diablo, and get Gecko tool to space properly, and cut the flashing properly, bend Z flashing, not DIY...the Quad caulking made to match color , the stuff is HEAVY, not a DIY product
Are the seams between siding planks supposed to be caulking? Seems like water can get in there
A flashing plate should be used. watch?v=WJ4qwJPpX4c
no CAULKING in joints, each joint must be flashed behind it, read the Hardie instructions
It is good that you point out the install procedure, but it would be a benefit to your viewers if you made it less of a plug for your company and more of a useful tool for the people who click on your video. Lots of people look to RUclips for install advice and not so much for sourcing installers. Just a thought. It came off as a sales tool for one specific company.
With all due respect, Hardies install specs are like New Orleans weather, give it a minute and it will
Change. It’s a great product, but they set installers up for failure because many specs leave a less than desirable finish.
Everyone of those pinbacks near the corners will be broken in a year.
And don't caulk the butt joints. Just read the instructions and you should be fine.
Agree - here’s a great resource www.jameshardiepros.com/
Please help stop these contractors I was a carpenter never given protection or even warned of the dangers when dry drilling into concrete and dry cutting fiber cement board siding now I have scarring in my lungs and worry everyday I will die from silicosis with no hope no cure no treatments everyday across the subdivisions in Jacksonville there are people still dry cutting and dry drilling into concrete it has turned my entire life upside down and wish 1 person would have told me so I could have left immediately I reported this to osha and nothing was done the contractor still do it to this day. Please help stop this its killing a lot of us I don't understand why the contractors are not criminally charged for this
Sorry to hear that. Why would they need to leave? Is a mask not good enough?
I got news for you everyone chaulk that stuff at top if don’t it gets water behind it
following the installations rules do not require an "expert" to do so
Preferred Elite, 😂 I see what you did there.
butt joints too large, and that is not how ya supposed to touch up , that's why JH has paint kits for just such use, and painting all cut edges
Agree 100%
So you're telling me if you leave that quarter inch Gap above the drip cap the water is not going to run behind the siding and leak in I think it is I would clock that I would leave a gap but I would call it from behind so the water can't get in there and get behind the siding
Why the heck would someone buy a product with such a complicated install?
highest quality siding available. Why would any one buy an expensive car or HOUSE, when there are cheaper less quality ones? Heck, when ya buy the good stuff ya have the pros install it, not DIY...why buy 50 year OC Premium duration shingles, when ya can get cheaper ones, that don't have specs to be met when installed
@@cengeb so says the salesman. Thanks for the info, I used a different product with perfect results.
@@xlrmale Not salesman, facts. tests, etc...quality products, need quality workers, chevy assemblers don't asembly bugattis...
@@cengeb hold on a sec while I get my hip waders out, it's getting pretty deep here.
1/4 clearance is insane. The problem with Hardie siding is, it shrinks and the gaps get worse over time.
The clearance requirement is to allow water exit from behind the siding over windows, doors and blocks instead of forcing water behind the cladding. I’ve never seen a 1/4” clearance worsen over time.
I’m a home and termite inspector in California and 20 year old Hardie siding gaps like LP composite siding.
@DTOM Gadsden caulk on sir, do your thing, no judgment here. Simply advising what the install specs are per the manufacturer!
@@carolinaexteriors3134 I also notice that the cut edges on hardie never really hold paint all to well over time , and when it starts getting wet it just falls apart from the bottom,if everything is flashed properly no water should get behind the siding and then I feel ok caulking the cutouts
I live in a wet climate. 20-30 inches of rain per year. I disagree that moisture just normally builds up behind siding. I have demoed a lot of siding and I dont really find moisture between house wrap and siding unless something has failed. I feel like leaving large uncaulked gaps above flashing for water to get out is akin to putting a floor drain inside of your house in case your roof leaks.
Hardie touchups are not great at all. Never truly match in color.
It would have been nice if you would have shown the way it was supposed to be done! Useless info…
Truly, the devil is in the details.
Absolutely
1st mistake, you bought James Hardie siding
Hi Alan, thanks for commenting. Curious, what material / product specifically would have recommended to this homeowner?
Reminder - our company didn’t install this siding, we were simply asked to assess.
@@carolinaexteriors3134 just by reading up on it lil bit, has way too many issues with installation and longevity..id recommend a high end vinyl siding.. I've been a carpenter/woodworker/ cabinetmaker/ contractor for 35 yrs
@@clinttorres2508 Going to install siding on my house in 2 weeks..was thinking about installing James Hardie but after reading up on all their issues, I have decided to go with Vinyl as well. I am sure Vinyl has its own set of problems. But I'm not willing to pay for the additional cost to install JH.
@@mikef2811 yes like moisture build up. one of my neighbors added vinyl siding and the wood behind the siding ended up rotting. Here on the gulf coast its not advised or used anymore. The thing about these videos., whats good for one part of the country, isnt good for another part. ask your local builders. Hardy is a great product.
Gave a thumbs down, I watched to learn, and didn't learn. WHAT CLEARANCE are you talking about, and why is caulk not the best practice? Maybe explain these points in next video for a thumbs up.
This is just an ad. bad
Bro, you are a Jesus follower and it shows. The Holy Spirit glow come across just by the way you talk.
this siding is junk made a mistake purchasing this instead of lp smartside ,James Hardie is brittle for being fiber cement it needs to be water proofed like crazy its like water cant touch this stuff only paint layer protecting it, left some pieces out in yard after install 3 weeks of rain/sun laying on ground this stuff just breaks apart like nothing. definitely don't feel good about this investment dont think it will make it anywhere near as the original lp/wood siding my house had.
Mfg INSTRUCTIONS plainly tell you DON'T leave on ground in wet etc etc etc, FOLLOW instructions, it comes on a skid, and the things need to have a tarp over it, since the hardi wrrap ain't water proof, FOLLOW instructions..
LP smartside is OSB crap....
instructions tell you to paint any cut ends, follow instructions, with available Hardie touch up kits
Hardie board is crap
Did James hardy recieve reparations
Fiber cement blows out the back when nailed
You basically complain but don't show how to properly install what others did wrong in any of your videos. Get yourself a Hardie manual, read it, learn the how tos and stop hating on others.
So-called "professionals" want a MINT for their labor.
DI Yourselfers do better work than this. I just bet a so-called "professional" did this SHODDY work. How much?
Vinyl is final!
nope, it fades, it warps, it burns, it cracks...vinyl is cheap, and the stuff with foam behind it, falls apart...