First Tow: All New Weight Distribution Hitch EAZ-LIFT TR3
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
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Great videos, man. They really helped me decide on the TR3. About the sloppy 2” shank- I got the 600 (800) lb setup and it also came with the 2” shank with no option to change it; but when I got the hitch, the parts list identifies a couple optional shanks in 2.5”. I needed a little more drop for my truck, so I searched for and found the 2.5” shank with an additional drop from Amazon- part #48652. The direct replacement for the one that comes with it, but with a 2.5” shank, is 48651.
Thanks for another great video! Did you need to loosen the sway friction before backing the trailer?
Did you ever have clearance issues on the hitch to the frame of the trailer? I ask because we have yet to find a hitch for our 2024 Winnebago Minnie that does not hit the frame of the trailer at the tip when we turn. I hope that makes sense!
I have the R3 and have the same play in the shank that I don’t care for. Their 2” shank is almost 1/8” undersized. It is actually causing damage to my receiver, wallowing out the hitch pin hole. Finally sprung for a bulletproof hitch with a 2.5” shank and WDH adapter.
Nice job. Happy Father's day
I watched your videos which was super helpful but decided on the tr3 system. I bought it on Amazon and installed it myself. went for a test drive down the freeway and starting at about 50 mph on up to 65 it was horrible experience. wasn't even a windy day. it pushed me around way out of my comfort zone. almost had to pull over and take the surface streets back home. I have a 2022 ram 1500 crew cab short bed with max tow rating of approx. 11,400. my trailer is 28 ft including hitch and dry weight of 4800 lbs. so well within spec. my first test drive was 20 miles away to get the wheel bearings repacked at a local dealer. I talked to the guy was was going to do the work about my experience getting there and he took a look at my set up an said my t3r bars didn't have hardly any tension on them so basically the tr3 wasn't doing its job. he suggested I angle the ball more downward, move the receiver brackets more towards the front of the trailer several inches to get more tension on the bars. do you agree with what hes suggesting? in short, how do you get more tension on the bars because the tr3 system has no tension adjustment like a chain system would?? I followed the available install video by the manufacture to the best of my ability. i leveled my trailer first, installed the hitch 1 inch above the receiver, adjusted the thump screw 5 turns, locked it down. what am I doing wrong? how do i get more tension on the bars? any help would be greatly apricated.
Thanks in advance...
I do not agree with moving the brackets closer to the front of the trailer. The further back the better. Also there is an adjustment screw located between the ball and bumper of the truck. Did you measure your front wheel wells? It sounds like an installation issue from what you're telling me.
@@WanderingWeekends Thank you for a quick response! when you say adjustment screw do you mean the thumb screw which the directions says turn 5 1/2 times or the screw/bolt to lock the thumb screw down? (I have a feeling this is where my problem lies) bottom line is i need to figure out how to add tension to the bars. From what I'm gathering, the only way to adjust more tension on the bars for this tr3 system is to put the ball shaft in a downward angle? is this correct? I have called the manufacture several times cant get anyone to call me back.
You are on the right track. Let me know if they don’t call you back. I’ll see if we can dig deeper.
Love the blue face, grandkids always have those when they travel with us,
😂🤣what ever it was you know it was good !
We call it eating a Smurf. LOL usually after eating blue popsicles.
I have the R6 and really like it..pulling my 2800BH also
I have the Camco Recurve R3 hitch which had a similar sway control system with the brake pad material as the hitch in this video.
The owners manual tells you not to leave the head tightened when not in use.
I just got back to PA from the Smoky Mountains which was a 600 mile trip one way. This was the longest trip that we have taken with our 33 ft travel trailer to date and I started to experience significant sway after 100 miles of travel at 65 - 70 mph. My take on the situation is that the brake pad material wears ever so slightly during travel and needs to be constantly retightened. I retighten when I refueled at 300 miles of travel and sway went away for a while then came back. I tow my 8,800 lb travel trailer with a F-250 with the 6.7 Powerstroke and I’m glad I had enough tow vehicle to keep the trailer on track when the hitch loosened up.
I actually was looking through your previous hitch videos because I’m looking for a new hitch after this last trip. I think I will like be going with the Weigh Safe hitch.
Everything you’re saying seems extraordinarily logical. We will see ⚠️
@@WanderingWeekends By the way thanks for all your effort in making the hitch review videos. They have been really helpful.
-The curt shanks work with the camco EAZ lift hitches. Just bought an extended shank since I needed to tow with an f350 vs my f150. $25 bucks at camping world.
-The tightening and loosening is only necessary on slippery conditions
-I tow with a camco trekker, I always leave it tight. Only loosen up when taking bars off and truck is at an odd angle.
Great info. Thank you.
@@WanderingWeekends Thanks for doing what you do, I’ve been avidly watching all your hitch videos. So far ones where sway can be turned off are my go to as we sometimes tow late into the season and things can get hairy when it gets slippery and it’s nice to turn it off so was excited to see this review.
@@WanderingWeekends EAZ lift finally listed different shank sizes. They now have 2.5” and 3”. Part numbers 48651 and 48654.
Please, someone tell me why in the H_LL would you want to distribute some of the weight of the truck into an RV frame that can barely support itself? Level the truck with air bags. Instead of a vertical bending force applied to the RV frame to create fiction on your side bar it would seem more efficient to replace the side bars with hydraulic shocks to mitigate sway. What the heck am I missing?
Thanks!
Where u get that brass insert for hitch? I need one
I have the Equalizer hitch and the shank is too short to open the tailgate as well. They make a longer shank that allows opening.
…I just wish it came with the hitch
Always interesting to see how things are done elsewhere. We use Stabilisers built into the hitch head in the UK ... some of us also have an electronic stability system know as ATC which applies the caravan brakes if it detects instability.
Yes I get that; yet we tow heavy here and wind channels are crazy; try towing through American Northern plains with winds hauling @ 30+ or a gust side-swipping you at 40+ Ouch. Example my hitch weight alone is 850Lbs and TT is 10.5 feet high by 26ft long. Where as on your end their more low profile & lighter by the marjority and by law in the UK can only be a certain size or perhaps weight etc ? Most of our trucks come with sway control; yet we turn them off when using the Weight distrubution System "WDH" When you capture tongue weight over 350lbs using a WDH is vital. I have towed a NuCamp Tab 400 Tear Drop and had no need for a WDH and so I left my trucks sway control system on. But glad you're tuning into the USA market which is different but what we have in common is; camping! Greatings from Miami FLA
Always enjoy your real world reviews Corey . Plugs 👍
I pulled the trigger on the equalizer e4. The tr3 manufacturer told me that the sway brake must be released when not towing as damage will occur to the brake material. What a pain in the butt
Can you back up with the eazy lift t3 without disconnecting the hitch? Great review 👏
Yes
@WanderingWeekends thank you, I decided after seeing your video to go for the B&W Continuum Weight Distribution Hitch. Great video, it actually helped us to make the decision. Thank you.
I DON'T USE THE BRAKE GIZMO AND I HAVE NO SWAY! Watching this video; convinced me to buy it. Well now 3 mths in; love it! As for the brake center sway control gizmo; I don't use it; I simply don't have any sway; In-fact, I forgot to use the sway Gizmo lol and realized no need! Now after using my 4th WDH system; most of it is hoky lol; As I get more weight distributed correctly, that is all that matters and no bounce! Don't get me wrong, yes sway control might play its part? Yet as for my Grand Design XLS 22mle "2022" Night & Day difference from my Round Bars with Reese; with my half-ton truck F150. Love this the TR3 under $500. Amazon special! NO NOISE NO and I add a tiny bit of grease to the ball.
The longer the hitch length (so that you can lower tailgate)the more strain it puts on the receiver. Might be why companies keep them short like they do. Just a thought.
Possibly. That said the Weigh Safe, Curt, and ProPride all allow for tailgate use.
@@WanderingWeekends There are always tradeoffs. Being able to open the tailgate is convenient, but comes at a risk/cost. The farther back the hitch ball from the rear axle the more stress it puts on the vehicle, weight distribution hitch, and receiver. Also, the trailer will have more leverage to pull/push on and affect the stability of the tow vehicle (similar to why a bumper pull is less stable than a 5th/goose - distance behind the rear axle). Some trailer and truck combinations might be ok and not notice the extra shank length. That isn't true of all combinations. I believe this is why most manufacturers would include shorter shanks - safest option. If your combination can handle a longer shank and you want one, then that is an option and risk you'll have to take on yourself.
@@rockymtnhighadventures Agree with you. Yet not asking for much, say another 1inch or 1.5 inches and you can open that tail gate every time. But for those with a Shank in the up position the tail-gate not being able to open and hit the Jack is a good safety measure. So bottom-line I rather keep it as tight to the truck as possible lol.
2:14 Shanks are generally generic in nature. I've been researching this a lot lately, because I want a longer shank for my older style EAZ-LIFT hitch.
The common distance between the height head mounting holes is 1 1/4". That's the only thing to be concerned about when buying a different shank.
I am in the process of challenging out my received on y truck. the Pin had wiggle room in it that i was not aware of and after 250 trip it ovalled the hole in the receiver out. I hate the 2.5 receiver. The spacer sleeve is a pan. I am not sure why the 2.5 is even needed when they make 2" receivers with more than enough ratings. For instance is my 2015 2500HD came with 2.5" class V receiver which i believe to rated at 20,000 lns. My truck is only rated to to 13,000lb so the receiver seems to be overkill. Just ordered a WeighSafe 2" hitch for my Outdoors RV 24TRX after watching your video on it.
Love the WeighSafe!
Had an issue with my trekker and camco sent me one of these instead. The trekker was an awesome hitch when it was working, it’s quiet and sway control was great. However there’s a slight design flaw that once the sway control wears it no longer can control sway without modification to the washer as it bottoms out wish they figured that out as I loved the hitch.
Now I’m contemplating selling the TR3 and buying and equalizer or Andersen as I think I’m done messing around with a hitch that has wear items. Customer support on EAZ lift was great and after sending my warranty claim the new hitch was on my door step 3 days later. Just waiting on your verdict to see if I want to install this and give it a shot or sell it cut my losses and move onto something else.
I only have a few hundred miles so far but it is performing very well. Better than the Equalizer so far. I need a good wind storm though…
@@WanderingWeekends that’s promising, Ill keep it until your verdict comes out.
If you don't want to be continually making adjustments, and also performing modifications, I would stay away from Andersen! I am here because I am sick of the adjustments that constantly need to be made with my Andersen. I know others swear by them but not me. I am only pulling about 3,500 lbs. and I am totally dissatisfied with the Andersen. My primary usage is for weight distribution and the Andersen falls short at this. I like this TR3 and this will be my next hitch!
@@roadtripwarriors7458 I kept my tr3 and have used it for half of the season. It does a good job with sway, and putting it on and taking it off is a breeze. I’d recommend it 😉
@@doubled8247 Thanks for the reply! I will have my TR3 by Friday and can't wait to get it installed (so I can use my TT again!). Although my Andersen is installed as instructed (I did not place a weld as one of the options suggested), it is now at the limit of what can be adjusted. When you think about it, why should I need to make these modifications when installing it (I did use the set screw as one of the options, to prevent it from sliding). My next adjustment will be to REMOVE the Andersen!
It's so funny, your son has a BLUE mouth! Must have just had a sweet snack. Thanks for your awesome videos and help
Haha, yep. I think it was a ring pop.
My blue ox, I can open my tailgate
4:40 I have the blame the big ugly motor head on the LCI jack for that problem. I have the same issue, which is easily solved. Spin the motor head 90 degrees on the jack tube. Holes exist already on most LCI jacks, you just have to tap the threads.
A bucket?!
Knowing what you now know. Would you choose the equalizer E4 over the TR3?
Depends on the tow vehicle and the trailer. It would still be tough. TR3 performed a little better but E4 is a proven hitch. Jury is out.
The two swing bars on the hitch why wouldn’t you show and explain that at the same time?
Tr6 more appropriate ? 🤔
Maybe I missed it but what is the weight the hitch? I have the R6 and it works but the hitch is so heavy it's no fun to move/carry when removing and installing.
What adjustments do you do when you have porpoising? I use equalizer E2 and going over bridge as you did I get proposing. Never sway. I have 2500 truck and Imagine 2600RB. Any ideas would be appreciated. Enjoy your channel. Thanks
What made you get rid of the propride?
I still have it. Just testing other hitches to try and help others decide which is best for them.
No longer a Camco WDH fan
I had a R6 for a long time, the adjustment for Sway was imo a pia.
Switched to the Blue Ox Track Pro and very happy. The Weigh Safe is $$$$ for me and double the price.
I think if I was spending that $ I’d go a Fiver or Hensley.
Thanks again for all the great content.
The 2-2.5" adapter might have less play if you change it's direction... Might... It looks like it's sticking out a bit more than necessary
FYI ... On my Curt adaptor sleeve it will only go in one way. It has 'ears' that only allow one way in to stop it from going in too far. The other model I looked at had a 'flange' to prevent it from going in the other way as well...
My new 2.5-inch shank has made a world of difference in towing. You need to lose the adapter. I also got my new shank 4-inches longer which makes backing up much easier and I can drop my tailgate.
I didn’t see it on Camco’s site. Link?
That bolt that tightens the sway, can be deadly if too tight. The dealer tech applied too much pressure and on my first turn out of the parking lot, one side flew off. That saddle must be able to swing and redistribute. Just my $0.02
Whoa! How did Camco handle that situation?
@@WanderingWeekends I didn’t report it, was frustrated with dealer decided to fix it