FYI Anyone With a Fairmont or Zephyr, that is building it on a budget, you do not need to swap the k member to put in a 5.0. You can use 1979 Ford F100 302 engine mounts with the inline 6 cyl k member. The drivers side k member bracket will also need to be trimmed to fit the oil filter.
Witness the laughter as Eric tries 4 tools to remove a bolt! 10:15-11:00 Been there. Done that. Next steps are breaker bar and breaker bar with pipe (OK, so that's usually after a futile attempt to let the air compressor get to max pressure once). Of course that's usually when the vehicle I'm working on is farthest from the tools requiring maze-running and hurdling skills over and over. I'm always amazed at the pile of tools I have to put away at the end of a job that were required to get it done.
I went ahead and watched that Power Nation video on the K member alignment, and man what a different feeling show. Love your laid back attitude. Their felt like a sprint the whole time. Guess it's the difference between showing a weeks worth of work in 20 minutes vs your day in 30.
Just did the same trick with the hood prop last night doing voltage and voltage drop on a car, needed the throttle to stay down. I've used them to do the bleed trick or to check brake lights when working alone. They do however make a special pedal depression tool (lisle) which i've been thinking about buying. I don't use it often but sometimes you only need to raise RPM up a light bit but the seat cushion is too slippery if leather and the hood prop falls off because of it's weight, so that's where this tool comes in. Just figured i'd make mention! My wallet hates my tool addiction but my sanity on the job thanks me for it.
Been following this project since I found it on the interwebs. I used to help a neighbor (when I was a kid) put "totaled" cars back together. We fixed two of these fairmonts, well 1 fairmont and 1 zypher (same car only merc). Kinda fun watching an old one come out of moth balls.
I once had a 1932 Ford Model A come down on me and some friends while we were pulling the rear end out of it. Fortunately nobody was injured, but it was a very expensive and very heartbreaking mistake. You can never be too safe with a car that's on a lift! That tube frame is a beautiful thing! Some day, I shall learn how to weld, and start making tube frames for everything!
I love it when Eric breaks out the air tools :D something is so satisfying about seeing all that rust and dirt fly off the car as a stubborn bolt is removed.
Nice job, Eric. Note that those aren't struts; they're shocks. Remove them completely prior to dropping K member to reduce the risk of them swinging out and hitting you or the car during removal (you almost dented one of your fenders). This would also allow you to simply remove the springs (using a jack or similar for safety) rather than cutting them with a torch under compression (presents other risks, including fire, burns, or the spring flying out as it is being cut). Also, PBBlaster or other penetrating solvent is your friend prior to removing any fasteners, particularly crusty suspension bits exposed to the elements for nearly forty years.
Eric, I can't tell if you did this but I would make a plate to sandwich the rear K-member bracket since you ovaled the holes. This well help spread the load of the bolt over the whole of the surface.
I had to modify my k member to fit in mine, I only had to modify one hole. It's so fun for me to watch knowing what has to happen next and knowing how much work it is.
Those damper support nuts just didnt want to leave home, A fully operational ... errr LOL so funny :-D, how dare they argue with you :). Fire comes to the rescue again, springs didnt stand a chance, such a usefull tool. You have removed many a stubborn exhaust flange to flange bolt with fire, no arguments :-). That fresh support frame looks great, smooth tubes, very nice. I hope you never lose interest in this car, there is a lot of you in it.
As a standard rule, ANY slotted hole should have a washer under the bolt head. The bolts that were there had flanged heads, and I suppose that was 'good enough' for Ferd in '79 - but in a situation like that it would have been advisable to put some washers on all of those bolts before putting them in place. Mainly I mention this as a matter of future reference. If you're ever bolting something on with slotted holes like that, you should really put some washers on the bolts. Even if they weren't there before.
Eric, I have been watching your videos for years and years. I have to say I think I've come to terms with cancelling my Netflix account, because this is much more entertaining. Keep it up, man. I'm looking forward to more vids. Take care.
Hi Eric, thanks for another great, warts and all video. Can't believe though that you've had your ramp so long but don't have a handy set of step ladders beside it!I would have checked the body and new member for their independent "squareness" before I started finessing anything though, your right, manufacturing tolerances were huge back in the day, so very odd that you had to change anything to get the bolts in.
The need to hog out the rear holes is a known issue on early Fox bodies. As you've discovered, the spacing between the holes is slightly different on the later cars (which the K-members are designed for).
Just a quick note... the old K member bolts 'are' stretch the yield and should not be reused. If you wanted to replace the K member bolts it is suggested the use new flag nuts that are still available due to they're long run on the Mustang. Great build!
Hey Eric, you should make another "A day at the shop with EricTheCarGuy" video. I loved watching it. Pretty sure some people wants more of those videos.
Can I suggest on those bolts where you had to 'adjust' the hole spacing you make up a 1/8" plate to spread the load instead of relying on some slightly bigger washers? A little bit of peace of mind that they won't rip out if the worst happens.
Maybe I'm a bit OCD, but when I run into this situation I use my MIG welder to fill in the extra space. Makes it look professional and no washers needed.
"And if that means just cutting another coil so be it". Just admit you wanna use the torch more. Torch cutting is so much fun if done safely away from fuel lines.
ive seen a fellow tech nearly drop a car off a lift when dropping the engine and trans out the bottom of a chevy acadia, started to teeter and caught it with my hands ( it was pretty close to balanced) and put a screw jack under it
Eric, could you do a video showing what brands you prefer as far as basic hand tools go? Similar to your wrench video, but also including ratchets, sockets, screwdrivers, etc.
Anyone who does anything professional likes SnapOn. They just don't like the price. I worked under a head mechanic at a Trucking company last year and he had a $15,000 tool box. It was a great first job.
You know Eric, I have been watching your videos forever and you have ALWAYS worn those yellow safety glasses. Are they the same pair from years ago or do you just like yellow? Lol. The other day I found a yellow pair like that in my shop (it was part of an AC dye kit I believe) and I tried em for a bit and I couldn't stand em! I don't know how you do it haha. Great video btw!
At around 25 minutes, you are fitting the K member bolts to the frame; you decided to grind out the slots on the K member to accept the wider spacing. Is there a reason you chose that route instead of cutting the tapped backer plate in the middle? (Trying to learn, not trying to critique. From a structural strength perspective I would have imaged some other trimming may be more idea. What did I not think of?)
I'm surprised you didn't put any bungie cords on the struts/shocks to keep the control arms from dropping. Might not have helped at all though I suppose.
If I were going through all this trouble I would have installed a 460. At least a 351 (W or C). I would have even considered a 455 Pontiac as they have a longer stroke than a 460.
Hi Eric... could you please do some videos on the VSA system. Like which scanners can read it's error codes, what they mean ect. My VSA light keep coming on, and I don't trust any of the Honda dealers round here.
I am doing the same thing to a 1989 Fox Mustang that came with a 2.3. What brand of K-Member is the one you installed? I do enjoy your videos, they are down to earth so a simple guy like myself can understand them. Keep them coming. Wild Harold
I believe I would have tooken a little bit of metal out of all of The Boathouse not just everything I love just one on each side I believe a little bit off of each photo would have made it stay a little bit stronger but it's not my ride and I am not a professional as you are but overall I believe your project is coming together beautifully and can't wait to see the finish product
Did you manage to figure out the fender clearance issue since putting in the new K-member and new control arms? About to buy a tubular K-member on my fairmont and wondering if i really need the new control arms or if I'll still have to make some modifications either way
Do you need to perfectly align the K frame? I've done a bit of research and most people just eyeball line it up and bolt it in, the just do a front end alignment and call it a day. Like you said, the manufacturing wasn't "exact" back then as it is nowadays anyways. Just wondering how necessary it is. Thanks!
Eric you should be more careful with the way you lift heavy things from the ground, don't hurt your back! I watch all your videos, congrats on the channel
Has anyone ever put a deck on a lift? What I mean is you kept forgetting stuff when the car was in the air. Has anyone made a staircase to a upper platform so the can just go up and down without moving the car? Or is that just a bad idea?
The usual item is a roll around stair to get you into the seat if needed. A deck or stair attached to the lift would be a PIA, it would be in the way 90% of the time.
The mechanics that do Alignments typically have a 6-7 foot step ladder, small enough to easily move around but large enough to get up in the air so they don't have to drop the car down to do crap.
I guess if I thought about it step stools and ladders are better. I was just thinking of a picture I saw of a huge tool box that had stairs to an upper part of the tool box. Like a 2 story tool box.
Here is a link with a photo of one of the lifts with a deck that I was talking about. www.challengerlifts.com/images/gallery/44012LR/44012lr_gallery_2.jpg Apparently the lube shops like to use them. Chris
25:24 would it be better to ratchet stra the k member narrower and install? Once the engen and transmission is on there, and car is on ground the flex in the frame/k member would balance it out.
I dont want to be that guy that constantly points out flaws eric, but that washer setup on those k- member bolts looks shady as hell, i would not sleep well knowing my car was set up like that, maybe fab up a metal plate or something to put across to give some extra strength?
I was going to post a reply back after i read a few comments and my thinking was at least double up NEW washers so the surfaces are flat and strong. I would actually double washer all of the bolts since those heads do look like they are going to barely grab. or find a bolt with the same thread and a larger surfaced head. I as well am a bit concerned with the mashed up floppy washer on those bolts which support the entire front end.
Eric i watched your videos and i wonder, do you pre-losen those bolts before using those electric torque guns? I got a snap on one and it cant do the with the 3/8 gun and using a 1/2 is so cumbersome. If its the gun then what brand and torque they rated at?
Its always been more of a waist of time in my opinion. Yeah its your ears and its the only set you got but unless your useing an air hammer, which is pretty much the only tool i ever use with ear protection, the damage is pretty nominal. Plus when your doing things like that you need to hear things like parts cracking or moving on you or people telling you to move out of the way in case things are falling.
I have lived with tinnitus (ringing in the ears) and occasional vertigo (dizziness) for 15 years because I damaged my inner ears at work. I can't go to concerts anymore. When my wife and I go to a party, wedding, or dance I have to bring ear plugs to protect my hearing. PLEASE take it from me, do EVERYTHING POSSIBLE to protect your hearing. Damaging your hearing can mean much worse than you needing a set of hearing aids old everyone having to scream at you when you get older. Ringing in your ears for days on end can drive you crazy.
EricTheCarGuy There are things worse than going deaf. I had to undergo months of rehabilitation because I developed serious vertigo. Imagine being sea sick for months with no relief. There is also ringing in the ears that goes on for days at a time. Protect your hearing because the damage is cumulative over time.
"Errrrriiiiiicccc, you're doing it wrong!"-----I was hoping you would say that in this video, it always makes me laugh lol Nice job on getting that old one out, that's a big heavy hunk of metal right there. But will the new one still offer the same amount of chassis rigidity?
+Eric what's up. A couple questions when you have time of course. I know you said that's a used k member, however I see it comes with pockets for springs, is that homemade? I want to install this on my 79 as well but don't want coilovers yet.. Tell me more about that please or is there a link for that k member and a arms? And Thanks for vids also!
FYI Anyone With a Fairmont or Zephyr, that is building it on a budget, you do not need to swap the k member to put in a 5.0. You can use 1979 Ford F100 302 engine mounts with the inline 6 cyl k member. The drivers side k member bracket will also need to be trimmed to fit the oil filter.
Witness the laughter as Eric tries 4 tools to remove a bolt! 10:15-11:00
Been there. Done that. Next steps are breaker bar and breaker bar with pipe (OK, so that's usually after a futile attempt to let the air compressor get to max pressure once). Of course that's usually when the vehicle I'm working on is farthest from the tools requiring maze-running and hurdling skills over and over. I'm always amazed at the pile of tools I have to put away at the end of a job that were required to get it done.
I went ahead and watched that Power Nation video on the K member alignment, and man what a different feeling show. Love your laid back attitude. Their felt like a sprint the whole time. Guess it's the difference between showing a weeks worth of work in 20 minutes vs your day in 30.
Just did the same trick with the hood prop last night doing voltage and voltage drop on a car, needed the throttle to stay down. I've used them to do the bleed trick or to check brake lights when working alone. They do however make a special pedal depression tool (lisle) which i've been thinking about buying. I don't use it often but sometimes you only need to raise RPM up a light bit but the seat cushion is too slippery if leather and the hood prop falls off because of it's weight, so that's where this tool comes in. Just figured i'd make mention! My wallet hates my tool addiction but my sanity on the job thanks me for it.
Been following this project since I found it on the interwebs. I used to help a neighbor (when I was a kid) put "totaled" cars back together. We fixed two of these fairmonts, well 1 fairmont and 1 zypher (same car only merc). Kinda fun watching an old one come out of moth balls.
I once had a 1932 Ford Model A come down on me and some friends while we were pulling the rear end out of it. Fortunately nobody was injured, but it was a very expensive and very heartbreaking mistake. You can never be too safe with a car that's on a lift!
That tube frame is a beautiful thing! Some day, I shall learn how to weld, and start making tube frames for everything!
I love it when Eric breaks out the air tools :D something is so satisfying about seeing all that rust and dirt fly off the car as a stubborn bolt is removed.
Nice job, Eric. Note that those aren't struts; they're shocks. Remove them completely prior to dropping K member to reduce the risk of them swinging out and hitting you or the car during removal (you almost dented one of your fenders). This would also allow you to simply remove the springs (using a jack or similar for safety) rather than cutting them with a torch under compression (presents other risks, including fire, burns, or the spring flying out as it is being cut). Also, PBBlaster or other penetrating solvent is your friend prior to removing any fasteners, particularly crusty suspension bits exposed to the elements for nearly forty years.
Eric, I can't tell if you did this but I would make a plate to sandwich the rear K-member bracket since you ovaled the holes. This well help spread the load of the bolt over the whole of the surface.
I had to modify my k member to fit in mine, I only had to modify one hole. It's so fun for me to watch knowing what has to happen next and knowing how much work it is.
Love the 70s ac condenser. A throwback to CFC ozone depleting technology that keep us cool
Those damper support nuts just didnt want to leave home, A fully operational ... errr LOL so funny :-D, how dare they argue with you :).
Fire comes to the rescue again, springs didnt stand a chance, such a usefull tool.
You have removed many a stubborn exhaust flange to flange bolt with fire, no arguments :-).
That fresh support frame looks great, smooth tubes, very nice.
I hope you never lose interest in this car, there is a lot of you in it.
I hope you don't either. Also, I'll let you in on a little secret. I'll be doing this all over again in a future video....
I don't know how long you've been using HD but damn man, excellent choice. well worth it.
Eric, your impact introductions were priceless.
As a standard rule, ANY slotted hole should have a washer under the bolt head. The bolts that were there had flanged heads, and I suppose that was 'good enough' for Ferd in '79 - but in a situation like that it would have been advisable to put some washers on all of those bolts before putting them in place.
Mainly I mention this as a matter of future reference. If you're ever bolting something on with slotted holes like that, you should really put some washers on the bolts. Even if they weren't there before.
"Because of the length of my drive shaft" LMAO! Good one Eric!
Eric, I have been watching your videos for years and years. I have to say I think I've come to terms with cancelling my Netflix account, because this is much more entertaining. Keep it up, man. I'm looking forward to more vids. Take care.
If you need to make up for the lack of T&A just go look at some of the sailing videos... Like Sailing SV Delos and Sailing La Vagabonde....
High complements indeed. Thanks.
Impressive....most impressive. The force is strong in a 1/2" air impact wrench.
Hi Eric, thanks for another great, warts and all video. Can't believe though that you've had your ramp so long but don't have a handy set of step ladders beside it!I would have checked the body and new member for their independent "squareness" before I started finessing anything though, your right, manufacturing tolerances were huge back in the day, so very odd that you had to change anything to get the bolts in.
lmao. I literally laughed out loud at "pee pee vision". I love you Eric. You crack me up bro.
The need to hog out the rear holes is a known issue on early Fox bodies. As you've discovered, the spacing between the holes is slightly different on the later cars (which the K-members are designed for).
Just a quick note... the old K member bolts 'are' stretch the yield and should not be reused. If you wanted to replace the K member bolts it is suggested the use new flag nuts that are still available due to they're long run on the Mustang. Great build!
Hey Eric, you should make another "A day at the shop with EricTheCarGuy" video. I loved watching it. Pretty sure some people wants more of those videos.
Nothing beats the sound of a pneumatic impact
Can I suggest on those bolts where you had to 'adjust' the hole spacing you make up a 1/8" plate to spread the load instead of relying on some slightly bigger washers? A little bit of peace of mind that they won't rip out if the worst happens.
Maybe I'm a bit OCD, but when I run into this situation I use my MIG welder to fill in the extra space. Makes it look professional and no washers needed.
No worries. It's coming out again anyway. That will be covered in a future video.
"And if that means just cutting another coil so be it". Just admit you wanna use the torch more. Torch cutting is so much fun if done safely away from fuel lines.
Guilty.
ive seen a fellow tech nearly drop a car off a lift when dropping the engine and trans out the bottom of a chevy acadia, started to teeter and caught it with my hands ( it was pretty close to balanced) and put a screw jack under it
The icing on the cake is the Star Wars references.
Eric......the wheels on the Fairmont look perfect for it. Good job on the Kmember !
Eriiiiiiiiiiiiiiic! You're doing a great job on the Fairmont!
Thanks.
Eric, could you do a video showing what brands you prefer as far as basic hand tools go? Similar to your wrench video, but also including ratchets, sockets, screwdrivers, etc.
Anyone who does anything professional likes SnapOn. They just don't like the price. I worked under a head mechanic at a Trucking company last year and he had a $15,000 tool box. It was a great first job.
Snap On, Snap On, Snap On
Getting closer!!! Can't wait.
You know iv been a mechanic for over 80 years and i gotta tell you you're doing it wrong. j/k keep em coming! ;^/
Eric get you a 6' step ladder it helps when the vehicle is on the lift and you need to get up to the engine bay or drivers compartment.
You know Eric, I have been watching your videos forever and you have ALWAYS worn those yellow safety glasses. Are they the same pair from years ago or do you just like yellow? Lol. The other day I found a yellow pair like that in my shop (it was part of an AC dye kit I believe) and I tried em for a bit and I couldn't stand em! I don't know how you do it haha. Great video btw!
in oz 8 cylinder and 8 cylinder cars have the same front ends if the 6 cylinder comes out with a v8 option
I put same KMember in mine I went with coil overs may go back to regular coil spring the Ford looking good
10:35 Eric confirmed to be a complete Star Wars nerd.
An ORIGINAL TRILOGY Star Wars nerd.
Your path to the Dark Sockets is complete, young Eric.
At around 25 minutes, you are fitting the K member bolts to the frame; you decided to grind out the slots on the K member to accept the wider spacing. Is there a reason you chose that route instead of cutting the tapped backer plate in the middle? (Trying to learn, not trying to critique. From a structural strength perspective I would have imaged some other trimming may be more idea. What did I not think of?)
Ford Fairmont is the granddaddy of all Foxbody cars.
Eric buddy.... Let's see some engine videos!!! I wanna see what you got together to put in there...
i didnt know that about the brakes so they dont bleed out, something i learn today, thanks
It isn't an ETCG viddeo without a couple of whoopses in. Great video as usual Eric. BTW, my cat is also called Eric :)
I'm surprised you didn't put any bungie cords on the struts/shocks to keep the control arms from dropping. Might not have helped at all though I suppose.
If I were going through all this trouble I would have installed a 460. At least a 351 (W or C). I would have even considered a 455 Pontiac as they have a longer stroke than a 460.
Hi Eric... could you please do some videos on the VSA system. Like which scanners can read it's error codes, what they mean ect. My VSA light keep coming on, and I don't trust any of the Honda dealers round here.
What was the reason for lubricating the bolt threads?
If it was to make them go in easier, why not clean them up with a wire brush?
I am doing the same thing to a 1989 Fox Mustang that came with a 2.3. What brand of K-Member is the one you installed? I do enjoy your videos, they are down to earth so a simple guy like myself can understand them. Keep them coming. Wild Harold
is there a reason you choose the yellow safety glasses over clear ones?
I would Love to see a Video of the old Front end being thrown into a metal shredder!
I believe I would have tooken a little bit of metal out of all of The Boathouse not just everything I love just one on each side I believe a little bit off of each photo would have made it stay a little bit stronger but it's not my ride and I am not a professional as you are but overall I believe your project is coming together beautifully and can't wait to see the finish product
Yeah, that rear K-member bolt thing is an early vs. later Fox thing. I ran into that too.
Interesting. Thanks for the input.
"The length of my driveshaft". Hahaha nice video Eric!
Do you not have any spring compressors? Would be a lot less scary to just compress the springs a bit...
I would use grade 8 heavy washers on that k member bolts
Don't worry, it's coming out again anyway.
The suspense!
Understand you don't want to paint up the K Member but are you going to de-grease the Engine bay before the V8 goes in? looking good though ;)
Did you manage to figure out the fender clearance issue since putting in the new K-member and new control arms? About to buy a tubular K-member on my fairmont and wondering if i really need the new control arms or if I'll still have to make some modifications either way
Awesome video Eric! Keep up the amazing work, can't wait till the next video. God bless
I put a 390 Ford Fe in mine turned out real nice great videos
congrats safety well explained.
great video to watch i'll give you thumbs up.
i notice you never clean your bolts and use loctite any reason for that?
Eric, with the left side k-member bolts, kinda points me to believe this was what is known as a "Friday Car"
I'm familiar with the term. Quite possible.
Wouldn't it have been a little safer and smarter to unbolt the springs on the ground and just release the tension by lifting the car up on your jack?
Hope there'll be some custom fab and bodywork down the line, I've been doing alot of that the last few weeks, love it.
No plans for any body work at this time. Plenty of fab work though.
The fab will tie me over I'm sure. Loving the Fairmont vids mate!
I did not have to cut the springs on my fox body mustang, you do need to pry them out (fronts), but they will not spring out onto your face.
Was waiting to see how long it would take you to realize the struts were still connected after you supported the rear end for a second time. lol
I was really hoping you saved the springs and pulled them out rather than cutting. I wanted to watch to see how you managed the tension upon removal.
That's too much work. Fire is more fun.
always fire. ALWAYS
+EricTheCarGuy Lol
Hey, question about this almost 4 years later, could you have just left the stock engine on the K frame, and then lifted the car off from the engine?
i know you didnt want to sand blast and paint but i would of put new undercoating underneath.
hey Eric why didn't you drop k member and motor and trans together? just curious
Do you need to perfectly align the K frame? I've done a bit of research and most people just eyeball line it up and bolt it in, the just do a front end alignment and call it a day. Like you said, the manufacturing wasn't "exact" back then as it is nowadays anyways. Just wondering how necessary it is. Thanks!
Yes, you should. As I said in the video I'll be covering that in a future installment.
Awesome video Eric, you've got a very interested viewer here, that's for sure!!☺
Eric will have the best sleeper around
I thought I saw on Facebook that you're redoing suspension.
I am. Check out my newsletters for details. The new one comes out Aug 31. www.ericthecarguy.com/blog
Eric you should be more careful with the way you lift heavy things from the ground, don't hurt your back! I watch all your videos, congrats on the channel
That K member weighs about 40lbs, 60 tops. I'm good.
Despite this video being for the Fairmont, I am enamored with Acura Vigors in the background.
if i buy a new pinion/ring gear set with all the correct parts i need, would i be able to essentially pop the old one out and install the new one?
Nice job. I was about to say no washers even after you widened those k member holes? and then you caught yourself. Lol
same here, I would have used large grade 8 washers or fab a shim
i was thinking same thing..you want as much clamping for those bolts.
Yeah man, I was screaming that at my monitor haha.
I'd have rather used a steel plate with 2 holes drilled at appropriate spacings, sandwiching the frame. Too much? At least I'd sleep easy. :-)
Bo Vejby that's what I meant by shim
Has anyone ever put a deck on a lift? What I mean is you kept forgetting stuff when the car was in the air. Has anyone made a staircase to a upper platform so the can just go up and down without moving the car? Or is that just a bad idea?
The usual item is a roll around stair to get you into the seat if needed. A deck or stair attached to the lift would be a PIA, it would be in the way 90% of the time.
The mechanics that do Alignments typically have a 6-7 foot step ladder, small enough to easily move around but large enough to get up in the air so they don't have to drop the car down to do crap.
I guess if I thought about it step stools and ladders are better. I was just thinking of a picture I saw of a huge tool box that had stairs to an upper part of the tool box. Like a 2 story tool box.
If you Google "huge tool box with stairs" a blue and yellow one should show. To see what I am talking about.
Here is a link with a photo of one of the lifts with a deck that I was talking about. www.challengerlifts.com/images/gallery/44012LR/44012lr_gallery_2.jpg Apparently the lube shops like to use them. Chris
25:24 would it be better to ratchet stra the k member narrower and install? Once the engen and transmission is on there, and car is on ground the flex in the frame/k member would balance it out.
I see a wastegate with a dump *big smile* lol....i didnt know you were going turbo but i likey
i would weld up the differents of the bolt holes in the k member for my own safety
I dont want to be that guy that constantly points out flaws eric, but that washer setup on those k- member bolts looks shady as hell, i would not sleep well knowing my car was set up like that, maybe fab up a metal plate or something to put across to give some extra strength?
I was going to post a reply back after i read a few comments and my thinking was at least double up NEW washers so the surfaces are flat and strong. I would actually double washer all of the bolts since those heads do look like they are going to barely grab. or find a bolt with the same thread and a larger surfaced head. I as well am a bit concerned with the mashed up floppy washer on those bolts which support the entire front end.
*(Use Flanged bolts)* no washer needed.
TheTotalMechanic
Eric i watched your videos and i wonder, do you pre-losen those bolts before using those electric torque guns? I got a snap on one and it cant do the with the 3/8 gun and using a 1/2 is so cumbersome. If its the gun then what brand and torque they rated at?
I can wait to see the next video Eric.
Do you ever wear ear protection? I imagine it gets pretty loud in there. Obviously everything is done at your own risk here I'm just curious!(:
Its always been more of a waist of time in my opinion. Yeah its your ears and its the only set you got but unless your useing an air hammer, which is pretty much the only tool i ever use with ear protection, the damage is pretty nominal. Plus when your doing things like that you need to hear things like parts cracking or moving on you or people telling you to move out of the way in case things are falling.
I have lived with tinnitus (ringing in the ears) and occasional vertigo (dizziness) for 15 years because I damaged my inner ears at work. I can't go to concerts anymore. When my wife and I go to a party, wedding, or dance I have to bring ear plugs to protect my hearing. PLEASE take it from me, do EVERYTHING POSSIBLE to protect your hearing. Damaging your hearing can mean much worse than you needing a set of hearing aids old everyone having to scream at you when you get older. Ringing in your ears for days on end can drive you crazy.
I should wear it more but I'm almost deaf in my right ear anyway.
+EricTheCarGuy I, nor your viewers wish you full deafness!
EricTheCarGuy There are things worse than going deaf. I had to undergo months of rehabilitation because I developed serious vertigo. Imagine being sea sick for months with no relief. There is also ringing in the ears that goes on for days at a time. Protect your hearing because the damage is cumulative over time.
who else works nights and watches ETCG while working?
same
at work watching now
Guilty.
pepperoni hot pockets are awsome
have you considered paintless dent repair?
"Errrrriiiiiicccc, you're doing it wrong!"-----I was hoping you would say that in this video, it always makes me laugh lol Nice job on getting that old one out, that's a big heavy hunk of metal right there. But will the new one still offer the same amount of chassis rigidity?
My IR7150 1/2" cordless would've taken those right off those strut mounts!! Neener neener.. Haha good video though!!!!
You are one hell of a beast man! nice job!
when doing that you dont need the pedal all the way to the floor you just need to push it a bit you dont have to open your bleeder
fucking lost it when he put on the safety glasses and said pee pee vision
+Eric what's up. A couple questions when you have time of course. I know you said that's a used k member, however I see it comes with pockets for springs, is that homemade? I want to install this on my 79 as well but don't want coilovers yet.. Tell me more about that please or is there a link for that k member and a arms? And Thanks for vids also!
I bought it used. I don't really know what brand or where it came from.
+EricTheCarGuy the search continues. Thank you anyways and keep up the great work man 🤓
Erriiiiiiiicccc!!! You're doing it wroooooong!!!
Kidding. Great video.
*$1.8k* for MM K-Member- Eric's not messing around here!
What does the pneumatic impact have over the electric? Torque?
i was going to say you need plumb bobs and align front to back and X dimension..
why are you putting engine oil on the subframe bolts???
What made you go with the mm k member over the other options?