Hi Eric! I enjoy your videos. I subscribed because you entertain me. I never thought I would learn much. But I have. Mostly, your diagnostic tips. You help me keep on-track, I'd get lost in A.D.D. chasing my tail spending money uselessly rather than diagnosing, were it not for you making instruction entertaining. You are gold to me.
17:00 fold up 3-4 shop rags, place on pole jack, place pole jack in the nook where the sway bar mount is welded, boom. Just installed those same arms today, worked like a charm, no scratches. May have to draw axle in/out a little but way safer 👌
the anxiety and excitement all at the same time you probably had doing this. thanks for sharing this with us Eric. can't wait to see more. keep up the good work, stay dirty.
I did the exact same thing (8.8 with gears) with a fox body Mercury Capri many years ago. It was also a four cylinder soon to be v8. First hole shot with the gears and four cylinder driveline blew the transmission. Was a blast once I got th v8 in. Almost exact same v8 configuration you are using.
I was going to say you looked like a proud papa, but then you went and called the differential sexy, so now it's just awkward. Seriously though, I'm enjoying these build videos. Keep up the great work.
For filling diffs we have a fire extinguisher that's had a tap fitted to the bottom, and a schrader valve at the top. Fill it half with oil, pump some air into it, and open the tap. The oil flows through a tube into the diff, super useful.
I just have the $10 fluid gun that NAPA sells.. It's basically just a big metal syringe with a hose on it. Weirdly I never see them used by any RUclipsr but they are the bees knees... Or at least mine has never let me down. Super useful for power steering fluid changes (or as much as you can by dilutsion anyhow) too.
I like these guys who say do it right the first time. everyone has their own idea what's the right way. had a guy criticizing my sub frame grafted to my truck hot rod. said it won't last. I did it 25 years ago and 20 k miles. jerks
*@**7:00* BEST "Cutting Oil" you never have to buy- go to a local Shop that services Diesel trucks, ask them for a gallon of their *used* oil (it costs them to have removed). The high Carbon and Sulphur content is ideal for tap & die, drills, your Brake Lathe (to break rust & save your bits before final cut) and quenching heat treat parts, etc.
hey eric been noticing that your editing is some of the best in the business, have watched hundreds of your videos and enjoy seeing them improve along the way, diy entertainment at its best
Well, you mentioned it, cleaning the car underneath and stuff, I find just a lot useful, to just clean the body mounting points to remove dust and debris, I also lubricate the rubbers, but with silicone paste.
Strange that there was an LSD additive included with Royal Purple differential fluid, since it already has an LSD modifier in it, but I figure the folks who made the rebuild kit know what they're doing! Lookin' awesome, Eric!
Now thats one mean looking back end, looking sharp too, smashing job eric :-D. I allways find the "Fill untill it leaks out of" a bit suspect, i like to overfill and leave it soaking over night then remove the level plug in the morning to let the excess out. it ensures that more of the mechanism inside is coated with oil, not just up to the level hole. Yep im odd lol.
They really should cast "do not fill up to this hole" on those covers. I've have had a couple "customer states changed axle fluid and now pinion seal is leaking" repair orders. Drained and informed customer how to fill it was the fix haha
Eric was so happy with himself when he put the fuel hose on the bottle and stabbed a hole in it. I love that feeling when things work how you want them to. Doesn't always happen....
I always tighten the fasteners of suspension components when the suspension is compressed near the normal state when the car is on its wheels. Then, all the rubber bushings are without torsional load when the car is normally driven. If you tighten down the screws while the suspension is totally unloaded, all rubber bushings will be torsionally loaded when the car is stationary, and its worse when the car is fully loaded. The latter will lead to earlier degradation of the rubber bushings (porosity) because they are always twisted.
All good stuff Eric... we won't discuss the welding on the reinforcement brackets... except for the first time you drop the clutch at 5000 rpm and if it lets go we'll roast you for the welds! lol.... Great job buddy!
On my foxbody what I did for the brake line is sent it to the factory position on a 7.5 over the 8.8. Unfortunately my vent from the 7.5 was paper thin and wasn't reusable. I just welded a bolt to the axle right next to the vent and it works awesome
Eric...the auto parts store sells a pump that fits on the fittings for the oil bottles for like$10 makes it easy to fill hard to reach places like differentials and transfer cases
Amazing! You are my hero Eric. I learned so much by your videos, I'm from Puerto Rico I'm planing on giving you a visit if possible one day in the near future! keep up the good work :)
i know im randomly asking but does anybody know of a method to get back into an instagram account..? I somehow forgot the account password. I would love any help you can offer me.
hey eric been a mechanic for 49 tears and i have a 82 futura.got a trick to pass on to you.take out the diff.vent the next time you have to fill one up ,cut the tip to fit the hole and just turn the bottle upside downand and the fluid will go in their by itself. most of the time you dont have to even hold the bottle
Before people get to excited about the "Weight" issue. If I could suggest a primer on the differences between "Un-Sprung" weight and "Sprung" Weight. That's some interesting stuff from a physics stand point. Yes it does make a difference when trying to remove excessive weight from a speedy car! But sometimes what you think you will gain? Isn't always the case.
when you were trying to get the springs in place i did it with just my car on jack stands and the jack there as an extra safe guard i used the jack to put the control arm in place then kept tapping the bolt whilst jacking it slightly took me 15 minutes both sides. Bogan Mechanics haha
Ericthecarguy hello! Im a huge fan and enjoy your diy videos. The fairmont project is awesome. I have noticed that you are going for a sleeper look and I believe I saw in another video that you are going to keep the car quiet. I was wondering if you have considered electric exhaust cut outs? They would allow you to run straight headers at the track/stoplight with the flick of a switch AND still be a sleeper! Best of both worlds! Just a thought. Great vids!
Most of what I've read and heard about the quad shocks is that everybody removes them when they upgrade the lower control arms. Apparently the stiffer LCA's do as much for wheel hop as the quad shocks. IMHO, I'm planning to leave mine in when I finally upgrade mine. I figure why not, if they aren't in the way and they add a bit more control for the rear.
always helps for handling, ive got the best control arms and top quad shocks on the market and you sure feel the difference. For handling purposes you need everything you can on a live axle.
I'd have added a cap to the top of that opening in the control arm instead of drilling drain holes... but that's just me... Tubular suspension components almost always weigh a bit more than stamped ones but the benefits outweigh the weight penalty.
Eric, when Oliver is done, you should see if you can meet up with RCR and ChrisFix, get them to bring the Vagabond Falcon and the Driftstang. A meeting of everything Mustang related (the Falcon being the predecessor, and Oliver being a Fox body).
I know the car is much further along than this now, but all the same, "it's coming along" nicely. :) I do have a few thoughts though. You can swap the rear springs in a Fox with all of the control arms connected, and it's actually easier to do it that way. Just disconnect the shocks and sway bar and the factory springs pop out pretty easily with a slight bit of persuasion. Lowered springs usually go in with no trouble at all, but I haven't used every spring to be able to say that they ALL will (some drag springs are actually longer than stock springs so for those you have to do it the way Eric did it). I'm curious to see how you did the front, because there is a non-obvious "easy way" to do them as well and I personally fought for hours to avoid "the easy way". Or are you going to coil overs? I can't recall. Also... Modern synthetics have the friction modifiers already mixed into them (I did double check RP's website and they do advertise it as such). Running too much modifier is as bad as not running any at all. I screwed this up on my Fox too. It's done now, so it's dealer's choice of whether or not you want to add it again after your 500 mile change (unless you've already done it by now). and... The quad-shocks do not replace the pinion snubber, or vice versa. Later Foxes got both from the factory (and there is a truck floor reinforcement in later model Foxes that I don't think either your Fairmont or your Mustang has... I can't remember the year but I want to say it was added in 86 or 87... it's nothing fancy. Its just a plate welded into the trunk floor). IMO, you'll want to run a snubber of some sort just as a bump stop, especially since you're lowered, but most guys don't worry about it (I'm not sure what, if anything, the Fairmont had for a factory bumpstop). I lowered my car similarly to yours and I just lopped an equal amount off of the factory snubber as the drop of the springs. I overlooked that at first and the car only had like 1/4" of rear suspension travel. Oops.. :) Also, most guys claim that replacing the control arms with quality aftermarket pieces eliminate the need for the quadshocks since the suspension doesn't tend to be as easily "shocked" as it is with the stock pieces.
I was going to mention that RP gear oil should have friction modifier in it as well. In regards to wheel hop with these control arms, he shouldn't have much, if any. I swapped a set of SSM lift bars out for these exact control arms and didn't have any.
Tyler Luckenbill I'm surprised you had an hop with the southsides. That was the go-to setup back in the day (and Lakewood has recently re-released the original design in the original name.. Complete with '90s graphics. hahaha).
Never had any with the lift bars, I remember once or twice getting a little bit with the ones eric installed on a hard street launch. Lift bars are awesome until you get under it and see your mangled un reinforced torque boxes lol
Tyler Luckenbill I've heard those horror stories far too many times, which is why my controls arms are staying stock until the battle boxes are put in. :) I've had mine in a box for about 8 years now, so sometime in 2030 or so I may get to it... :/
I'm going to make a prediction here. Parts cars are great. Eric has mentioned that maybe he'll turn it into a budget build. I'm predicting that the parts car will get some newer parts installed on it that could have simply been on Oliver in the first place :D
LOL...Bare Metal...that one was for my benefit. LOL. I dinged you the last time on that. Thanks for painting the bare metal... :) I understand your issue with copper washers, but what would you use instead? Having worked in brake development and jounce hoses, these have long been the best item found for their application (crush washer)...
I got same type of tubular control arms on my 88 Stang . First had square tube now got round tube control arms. couldn't get new bushing for the square tube ones.
Hi Eric, two questions which may be dumb. 1, you couldn't have filled the diff on the bench prior to fitting ? 2, after the diff is installed do you need to align with respect to the front end alignment ? Btw, I'm in love with that alloy backcase, it's a star.
man your inspirational;l the work that you can do by yourself is astonishing. ive been try to be a mechanic for a few years now and just got hired on to my first shop hope i can use everything you have shown me to step forward to my dream career thank you. ive been trying to start making a RUclips channel about my process toward my career do you have any tips to make that first step?
So what if you had modified the brake lines of the differential to land the splice on the passenger side to retain a similar hook-up to the main line like it was stock? Anything I'm not thinking of? Is it bad that there would be unequal length lines to each caliper after the splice? Also, how did the diameter compare of the brake line main that goes through the cabin to the rear disc brake lines? On mine there's a noticeable difference in line diameters of the old (stock Fairmont) drum brake lines and those on my Lincoln Mark VII rear.
I drag raced for over 30 years. For 800HP you should have used a 9 inch Ford rear end. That 8.8 is way to weak if it ever hooks up. No c clip eliminator for the axles?. You gonna learn the hard way my friend. You always set up your rear end with the new bearings also. Sell that 8.8 and get a 9 inch. Keep up the video this should be good. Over the years I have seen so many broken axles without c clip eliminator. The car gets wrecked and seen people die from this mistake. For what you paid for parts you could have bought a new 9 inch ready to install. You need a spool and at least 33 spline axles. I have 35 spline in my camaro with a 8.5 rear end. All my stuff is Mark Williams stuff. Never broke any rear end parts in over 30 years. My car weight is 4200 lbs with me in it. Good luck Eric and we all learned these lessons the hard way. Even me.
Hello Erik, What do you think about hot rodding a straight sixx engine? How much horsepower do you think you could massage out ofthat 80 HP engine? Let's say multiple carb's, headers, camshaft and othermod's? I have seen in other countrys straight six cylinder racings engines, but not in the U.S. are there parts avalable for modifiying that engine? Thank you for your show I really enjoy!
Eric great work and video. But i have to ask what is the norm as far as price for this whole job minus the upper and lower arm job? Thank looking for more of your videos
I kid you not I see plenty of people using those brake line bending pliers including Eastwood on there Demo Panels and they're always bending the pliers and struggling. I think Eric's one of the few that say Bend around it. Honestly the way Eric uses it seems to be the only way to properly use it
Those look like the kind of welds I would make. :P Do welding classes at the local community college - do they help at all or is it one of those things that you just have to do and fail before you get good?
what is with the zip tie on the brake line mount ? Especially after the pain staking effort of shimming that differential ! don't like the idea of the coil spring no sitting flush with control arm mount.
Eric why no grease or anti seize on any of the bolts / threads ???? , i know any of my stuff i take off , i take the time to grease them for easy removal next time
WOW! Great self confidence! and what a shop you have and the thickness gauge for the shims was impressive! Good Job!
Hi Eric! I enjoy your videos. I subscribed because you entertain me. I never thought I would learn much. But I have. Mostly, your diagnostic tips. You help me keep on-track, I'd get lost in A.D.D. chasing my tail spending money uselessly rather than diagnosing, were it not for you making instruction entertaining. You are gold to me.
17:00 fold up 3-4 shop rags, place on pole jack, place pole jack in the nook where the sway bar mount is welded, boom. Just installed those same arms today, worked like a charm, no scratches. May have to draw axle in/out a little but way safer 👌
the anxiety and excitement all at the same time you probably had doing this. thanks for sharing this with us Eric. can't wait to see more. keep up the good work, stay dirty.
I did the exact same thing (8.8 with gears) with a fox body Mercury Capri many years ago. It was also a four cylinder soon to be v8. First hole shot with the gears and four cylinder driveline blew the transmission. Was a blast once I got th v8 in. Almost exact same v8 configuration you are using.
I was going to say you looked like a proud papa, but then you went and called the differential sexy, so now it's just awkward. Seriously though, I'm enjoying these build videos. Keep up the great work.
It's good to see you enjoying yourself Eric, we are enjoying it too.
That axle with all the fixings is a thing of beauty..............
For filling diffs we have a fire extinguisher that's had a tap fitted to the bottom, and a schrader valve at the top. Fill it half with oil, pump some air into it, and open the tap. The oil flows through a tube into the diff, super useful.
I just have the $10 fluid gun that NAPA sells.. It's basically just a big metal syringe with a hose on it. Weirdly I never see them used by any RUclipsr but they are the bees knees... Or at least mine has never let me down. Super useful for power steering fluid changes (or as much as you can by dilutsion anyhow) too.
That things great to use. Even Walmart sells the oil dispenser that connects onto the gallon jugs.
So happy to see her finally coming together :)
Yay. Eric sprayed the bare metal. That's an instant like from me!
All I can say Eric is you're the man God's given to me.
I like these guys who say do it right the first time. everyone has their own idea what's the right way. had a guy criticizing my sub frame grafted to my truck hot rod. said it won't last. I did it 25 years ago and 20 k miles. jerks
These videos are my favourite thing about a Friday morning
*@**7:00* BEST "Cutting Oil" you never have to buy- go to a local Shop that services Diesel trucks, ask them for a gallon of their *used* oil (it costs them to have removed). The high Carbon and Sulphur content is ideal for tap & die, drills, your Brake Lathe (to break rust & save your bits before final cut) and quenching heat treat parts, etc.
hey eric been noticing that your editing is some of the best in the business, have watched hundreds of your videos and enjoy seeing them improve along the way, diy entertainment at its best
Great job, the Fairmont is finally coming along. There is just something about new and shiny parts to make everything look, well new and shiny. :-)
Hi Eric Lindiomar here mecanic from Brazil nice job, I'm learning a lot in ur channel, thnx.
That diff is a work of art.
I am not a Ford person, but this looks bad ass so far, and being as it is a sleeper, I would happily build and own that car.
Well, you mentioned it, cleaning the car underneath and stuff, I find just a lot useful, to just clean the body mounting points to remove dust and debris, I also lubricate the rubbers, but with silicone paste.
"I find strange things sexy, I guess... Like differentials"- EricTheCarGuy
Lol, I love it, super excited for you and the Fairmont.
This series will be useful for us DIYers on building a nice fox body performance car for years to come.
Strange that there was an LSD additive included with Royal Purple differential fluid, since it already has an LSD modifier in it, but I figure the folks who made the rebuild kit know what they're doing!
Lookin' awesome, Eric!
eric loving the... The Fairmont Project...keep it up ...ive learned so much from all your videos ...thanks man
OMG, I screamed and passed out when I saw those welds. It was very frightening... :P
Now thats one mean looking back end, looking sharp too, smashing job eric :-D.
I allways find the "Fill untill it leaks out of" a bit suspect, i like to overfill and leave it soaking over night then remove the level plug in the morning to let the excess out.
it ensures that more of the mechanism inside is coated with oil, not just up to the level hole.
Yep im odd lol.
They really should cast "do not fill up to this hole" on those covers. I've have had a couple "customer states changed axle fluid and now pinion seal is leaking" repair orders. Drained and informed customer how to fill it was the fix haha
Eric was so happy with himself when he put the fuel hose on the bottle and stabbed a hole in it. I love that feeling when things work how you want them to. Doesn't always happen....
Oh man awesome video! So exciting to see it finally in!
Hooking up the lower shock bolts first helps a lot, the factory manual actually tells you to leave the shocks connected to change the springs 😉
Love your videos Eric. So simple and real !!!!!
I always tighten the fasteners of suspension components when the suspension is compressed near the normal state when the car is on its wheels. Then, all the rubber bushings are without torsional load when the car is normally driven. If you tighten down the screws while the suspension is totally unloaded, all rubber bushings will be torsionally loaded when the car is stationary, and its worse when the car is fully loaded. The latter will lead to earlier degradation of the rubber bushings (porosity) because they are always twisted.
Vacuum pump oil works very well for drilling and and works pretty well for an Assembly lube in my experience
Wow that rear end is sweet,I`ve never known anyone to invest in a Fairmont.
That is a beautiful diff. 8) Personally I like how it looks next to the brown crud patina of your car's under belly.
All good stuff Eric... we won't discuss the welding on the reinforcement brackets... except for the first time you drop the clutch at 5000 rpm and if it lets go we'll roast you for the welds! lol.... Great job buddy!
Excellent work Eric, it looks great.
When the diff was finally in place, I could hear Hannibal from A Team... "I love it when a plan comes together!"
thanks eric, another great video, so exciting, cant wait to see it with wheels on!!
great video Eric I am looking forward to all the other fairmont videos keep it up
On my foxbody what I did for the brake line is sent it to the factory position on a 7.5 over the 8.8. Unfortunately my vent from the 7.5 was paper thin and wasn't reusable. I just welded a bolt to the axle right next to the vent and it works awesome
As you said , Keep making videos Eric! Thanks
Eric...the auto parts store sells a pump that fits on the fittings for the oil bottles for like$10 makes it easy to fill hard to reach places like differentials and transfer cases
Eric you are the best dude!! Great vid!!
The best tip I ever got from you Eric was that silicone spray just works. I use that shit on everything now! Thanks man =)
my favorite tip was hit what it goes through. of course I wish I knew that before I bought one of those useless pickle forks and 2 pullers.
Eric, when you get this thing rolling, you are going to have the biggest smile; your face will split.
Amazing! You are my hero Eric. I learned so much by your videos, I'm from Puerto Rico I'm planing on giving you a visit if possible one day in the near future! keep up the good work :)
i know im randomly asking but does anybody know of a method to get back into an instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the account password. I would love any help you can offer me.
@Theodore Ezequiel Instablaster ;)
love it!!! so excited to see how that 80hp pushes that rear diff lmao. good job!
hey eric been a mechanic for 49 tears and i have a 82 futura.got a trick to pass on to you.take out the diff.vent the next time you have to fill one up ,cut the tip to fit the hole and just turn the bottle upside downand and the fluid will go in their by itself. most of the time you dont have to even hold the bottle
"Won't rust, either!"
More comedic gold from ya, Eric haha.
Eric once again love your video keep up the good work
Before people get to excited about the "Weight" issue. If I could suggest a primer on the differences between "Un-Sprung" weight and "Sprung" Weight. That's some interesting stuff from a physics stand point. Yes it does make a difference when trying to remove excessive weight from a speedy car! But sometimes what you think you will gain? Isn't always the case.
harbor freight has a siphon pump for filling diffs and the like for 10 bucks, your way works but the pump is super handy for refilling in tight spaces
I love your videos,and good camera man.
The newest and coolest differential ever :3
when you were trying to get the springs in place i did it with just my car on jack stands and the jack there as an extra safe guard i used the jack to put the control arm in place then kept tapping the bolt whilst jacking it slightly took me 15 minutes both sides. Bogan Mechanics haha
LOL as soon as you drilled the hole I was thinking bare metal LOL
Keep em coming! Loving the series!!! :-D
Even when you drill to make a drain dust and dirt will still collect and eventually rust I'll suggest to cover it wit a plate and seal it complete.
Cool vids, my fun is coming next spring. Slowly collecting all the parts. 4th gen parts / LS, into 3rd gen. Zoom Zoom.
Ericthecarguy hello! Im a huge fan and enjoy your diy videos. The fairmont project is awesome. I have noticed that you are going for a sleeper look and I believe I saw in another video that you are going to keep the car quiet. I was wondering if you have considered electric exhaust cut outs? They would allow you to run straight headers at the track/stoplight with the flick of a switch AND still be a sleeper! Best of both worlds! Just a thought. Great vids!
Most of what I've read and heard about the quad shocks is that everybody removes them when they upgrade the lower control arms. Apparently the stiffer LCA's do as much for wheel hop as the quad shocks. IMHO, I'm planning to leave mine in when I finally upgrade mine. I figure why not, if they aren't in the way and they add a bit more control for the rear.
Usually they're so whipped by now that they aren't doing much but adding weight to the car anyhow. So if yours are all floppy, may as well s-can them.
All that rear-gear with the economy of a 6-cylinder!
Your new dampeners came with no fasteners? Well, Im Shocked!
With the upgraded control arms the quad shocks are no longer needed. Did the same setup on my 03 GT and never had any issues.
always helps for handling, ive got the best control arms and top quad shocks on the market and you sure feel the difference. For handling purposes you need everything you can on a live axle.
I had the J&M weight jackers with matching uppers. Once I upgraded I ditched the quads and the car was amazing. Car also only had 40K miles.
Blix Dunn Get some bilstein quad shocks and itl ride even better and handle better.
Never had any problems without the quads, I also ran Nitto NT555's on all four wheels.275's in the rear and 255 in the front.
Blix Dunn that's weird cuz i had so much trouble getting it perfect, and i run 315s in the back lol..
Very nice work Sir!
I hope you lined up the spring on the rear perch
Nice job !! It's coming along Nice!!
I'd have added a cap to the top of that opening in the control arm instead of drilling drain holes... but that's just me...
Tubular suspension components almost always weigh a bit more than stamped ones but the benefits outweigh the weight penalty.
I was actually thinking, (damn, that is a clean ass air hose)
Eric, when Oliver is done, you should see if you can meet up with RCR and ChrisFix, get them to bring the Vagabond Falcon and the Driftstang. A meeting of everything Mustang related (the Falcon being the predecessor, and Oliver being a Fox body).
this is special video. 2 in 1 video :D
installing new differential and shock absorber for fairmont :D
i love the flare tool
I know the car is much further along than this now, but all the same, "it's coming along" nicely. :) I do have a few thoughts though.
You can swap the rear springs in a Fox with all of the control arms connected, and it's actually easier to do it that way. Just disconnect the shocks and sway bar and the factory springs pop out pretty easily with a slight bit of persuasion. Lowered springs usually go in with no trouble at all, but I haven't used every spring to be able to say that they ALL will (some drag springs are actually longer than stock springs so for those you have to do it the way Eric did it). I'm curious to see how you did the front, because there is a non-obvious "easy way" to do them as well and I personally fought for hours to avoid "the easy way". Or are you going to coil overs? I can't recall.
Also... Modern synthetics have the friction modifiers already mixed into them (I did double check RP's website and they do advertise it as such). Running too much modifier is as bad as not running any at all. I screwed this up on my Fox too. It's done now, so it's dealer's choice of whether or not you want to add it again after your 500 mile change (unless you've already done it by now).
and... The quad-shocks do not replace the pinion snubber, or vice versa. Later Foxes got both from the factory (and there is a truck floor reinforcement in later model Foxes that I don't think either your Fairmont or your Mustang has... I can't remember the year but I want to say it was added in 86 or 87... it's nothing fancy. Its just a plate welded into the trunk floor). IMO, you'll want to run a snubber of some sort just as a bump stop, especially since you're lowered, but most guys don't worry about it (I'm not sure what, if anything, the Fairmont had for a factory bumpstop). I lowered my car similarly to yours and I just lopped an equal amount off of the factory snubber as the drop of the springs. I overlooked that at first and the car only had like 1/4" of rear suspension travel. Oops.. :) Also, most guys claim that replacing the control arms with quality aftermarket pieces eliminate the need for the quadshocks since the suspension doesn't tend to be as easily "shocked" as it is with the stock pieces.
I was going to mention that RP gear oil should have friction modifier in it as well. In regards to wheel hop with these control arms, he shouldn't have much, if any. I swapped a set of SSM lift bars out for these exact control arms and didn't have any.
Tyler Luckenbill
I'm surprised you had an hop with the southsides. That was the go-to setup back in the day (and Lakewood has recently re-released the original design in the original name.. Complete with '90s graphics. hahaha).
Never had any with the lift bars, I remember once or twice getting a little bit with the ones eric installed on a hard street launch. Lift bars are awesome until you get under it and see your mangled un reinforced torque boxes lol
Tyler Luckenbill
I've heard those horror stories far too many times, which is why my controls arms are staying stock until the battle boxes are put in. :) I've had mine in a box for about 8 years now, so sometime in 2030 or so I may get to it... :/
If you want to get serious check out a company called wild rides if you haven't. Look at their s-box kit. Would never have problems with those
I'm going to make a prediction here. Parts cars are great. Eric has mentioned that maybe he'll turn it into a budget build. I'm predicting that the parts car will get some newer parts installed on it that could have simply been on Oliver in the first place :D
LOL...Bare Metal...that one was for my benefit. LOL. I dinged you the last time on that. Thanks for painting the bare metal... :) I understand your issue with copper washers, but what would you use instead? Having worked in brake development and jounce hoses, these have long been the best item found for their application (crush washer)...
I got same type of tubular control arms on my 88 Stang . First had square tube now got round tube control arms. couldn't get new bushing for the square tube ones.
there are only two bushings that could have bounded, the top ones on the diff the PU ones move freely on the pivot that you are tightening.
Hi Eric, two questions which may be dumb.
1, you couldn't have filled the diff on the bench prior to fitting ?
2, after the diff is installed do you need to align with respect to the front end alignment ?
Btw, I'm in love with that alloy backcase, it's a star.
Those poly bushings will probably squeak like banshees without grease. Ask me how I know... Looks like she's coming along nicely :)
I'm excited,,,nice work
You actually are pretty schmart ;) PS diff cover is mint, very eye catching
man your inspirational;l the work that you can do by yourself is astonishing. ive been try to be a mechanic for a few years now and just got hired on to my first shop hope i can use everything you have shown me to step forward to my dream career thank you. ive been trying to start making a RUclips channel about my process toward my career do you have any tips to make that first step?
What is the blue cleaner bottle you use called ? The bottle that sprays the excessive oil.
So what if you had modified the brake lines of the differential to land the splice on the passenger side to retain a similar hook-up to the main line like it was stock? Anything I'm not thinking of? Is it bad that there would be unequal length lines to each caliper after the splice? Also, how did the diameter compare of the brake line main that goes through the cabin to the rear disc brake lines? On mine there's a noticeable difference in line diameters of the old (stock Fairmont) drum brake lines and those on my Lincoln Mark VII rear.
I feel like you use every excuse to use your vice. I know I would. So jealous.
Thanks for the informative video.
I drag raced for over 30 years. For 800HP you should have used a 9 inch Ford rear end. That 8.8 is way to weak if it ever hooks up. No c clip eliminator for the axles?. You gonna learn the hard way my friend. You always set up your rear end with the new bearings also. Sell that 8.8 and get a 9 inch. Keep up the video this should be good. Over the years I have seen so many broken axles without c clip eliminator. The car gets wrecked and seen people die from this mistake. For what you paid for parts you could have bought a new 9 inch ready to install. You need a spool and at least 33 spline axles. I have 35 spline in my camaro with a 8.5 rear end. All my stuff is Mark Williams stuff. Never broke any rear end parts in over 30 years. My car weight is 4200 lbs with me in it. Good luck Eric and we all learned these lessons the hard way. Even me.
Without the c clip eliminator. Typo error sorry. Need some help just ask. I have friends that race Ford's.
What's that blue sprayer thing that use use to clean off parts?
royal purple break in fluid you savage
THANK YOU FOR THE IDEAS!!!!!!!
The upper control arms won't need any reinforcement?
Hello Erik, What do you think about hot rodding a straight sixx engine? How much horsepower do you think you could massage out ofthat 80 HP engine?
Let's say multiple carb's, headers, camshaft and othermod's? I have seen in other countrys straight six cylinder racings engines, but not in the U.S. are there parts avalable for modifiying that engine? Thank you for your show I really enjoy!
Eric great work and video. But i have to ask what is the norm as far as price for this whole job minus the upper and lower arm job? Thank looking for more of your videos
I kid you not I see plenty of people using those brake line bending pliers including Eastwood on there Demo Panels and they're always bending the pliers and struggling. I think Eric's one of the few that say Bend around it. Honestly the way Eric uses it seems to be the only way to properly use it
Those look like the kind of welds I would make. :P Do welding classes at the local community college - do they help at all or is it one of those things that you just have to do and fail before you get good?
what is with the zip tie on the brake line mount ? Especially after the pain staking effort of shimming that differential ! don't like the idea of the coil spring no sitting flush with control arm mount.
Eric why no grease or anti seize on any of the bolts / threads ???? , i know any of my stuff i take off , i take the time to grease them for easy removal next time
now you should go back and to it old school eric without a lift :)