Use the old brake pad when compressing the piston next time, then you don’t have to worry about messing it up. If it’s hard to press in, take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir. Also, don’t forget to grease the caliper pins and edge of pads that move (helps with noise). You should also spray rotors and drums with brake clean. They’re shipped with oil to help keep them from rusting and you want to get that off. As far as safety, I’d be real careful hammering away under a car held by a little scissor jack. I’d recommend investing in a floor jack and stands.
I like the average guy or girl diy videos at times over the super fast pro videos,, all I would say is since you are doing all the work to take apart why wouldn't you get a wire brush and brake clean and some silicon lubricant and clean that rust off and even change the metal clips that should come with brake pads, also most non coated rotors come with a slight film of oil from the factory on both sides so I would spray those with brake clean as well to make sure they're clean. thx for the video
You are whacking away on your vehicle while it is supported only by a scissor jack on very rough and uneven concrete. That is an extremely dangerous practice. You need to support your vehicle on something stable like jackstands every time you work on it when even one corner is lifted off the ground.
Good tip. That is definitely one way to secure this type of repair. I assure you it was very stable. I’m not in the habit of endangering myself. I also make sure to talk about safety in my videos. Again, thanks for being the safety police.
Using a factory scissor jack is dangerous. Loosening your bolts in a non cross formation is just bad etiquette and could cause a wheel to seem stuck from being cocked crooked by not relieving pressure in an even way around the circumference of the wheel
Great video, needed to know if toyota was different from other cars. Some tips, clean with a wire brush and put aluminum or copper paste on the wheel hub before putting the new rotor on, this will make it easier to remove next time, also makes the rotor alignment to the hub correct and flat. Also, should take out caliper pins (or sliders) clean (with nylon kitchen scourer or light wire brush) slightly and put brake grease on them (often brake pads come with this grease), this will keep pad and brake wear even for longer (usually change the rubber slider covers at the same time). Brake pad seating should also be cleaned with wire brush and put on the correct brake pad grease or anti seize. Use the correct greases as the temperatures get very high and do not get any grease on the brake disc. While cleaning you can use brake cleaner before you put the grease on all of these parts. When you compress the brake piston you can open the brake caliper bleed valve and you will take out some of the old brake fluid, catch, keep the old brake fluid in a container and dispose of the the old fluid correctly and environmentally. You do not have to do all of these things, but it is better if you do. Again, thanks for the video as I needed to see how this was done on a Corrola, I have done brakes on many other cars and all the greasing makes everything last longer and future maintenance easier. Here is an example of where to grease pads, ruclips.net/video/ow60E4ufW8U/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/cKpmBvfVYZg/видео.html
Not that everyone has one of these lying around but my rotors were frozen on and I couldn’t get them with a hammer. A few taps with a 15lb dumbbell knocked it loose quickly
Thank you for showing us all how to replace rotors and brake pads. Lots and lots of rust. Lucky you, I grew up in northeastern Wisconsin and remember rust everywhere. Now we live in Southern California and there is little or no rust on our vehicles. The surprise is living within a few miles of the Pacific ocean your car will rust from the top down. They will last only a few years. For piston I use a 2 x 4 block and gently use a screw driver so as not to nick or damage the piston. Be very careful not to damage or destroy your brake lines. Thanks for the very good advice. Removing old rotors There are 2 threaded holes in the old rotors. Just run 2 bolts into those holes and tighten, the rotors pop off. You don't need to hammer on them to remove them.
You didn't torque any bolts to spec. $19.99 for a torque wrench at harbor freight... For example, you need those lug nuts torqued to 76 ft lbs according to Toyota.
Lug nuts aren't all THAT important to tighten to spec. After all nobody is expected to carry a torque wrench around with them when they change a flat tire out on the road are they?
@@chuckschillingvideos It was an example. The caliper bolt is spec at 79 ft lbs, if you'd like to know more. And, in your example, for putting on the spare tire and driving a few miles to the nearest tire shop... No, not a big deal. But, said tire shop will (should) then torque down the regular tire properly, after patching it. This video is for a DIY professional brake job, so it needs to be done right. If you're doing your own brakes, then yes I absolutely expect you to at least have a $19 Harbor Freight torque wrench. What if they are aren't tight enough? Lugs backing out and you losing a wheel on the highway equals having a bad time. And, it's not a great idea to overtorque lugs because you can break or strip the wheel studs. On this particular car it wouldn't be that difficult to overdo it because 76 ftlbs isn't all that tight compared to other cars which spec at 100 and even well over that.
you should have shown taking the cap off the brake reservoir and use the old brake pad and c clamp to push the rotor in evenly and also re grease the slide bolts and get the torque specs on the caliper bolts. You are definitely a shade tree mechanic
@@TheMaintenanceMan Oh constructive advise is hard for you to take...I'm sorry I guess just keep showing people how to f up a caliber with a pair of channel locks...You go by the name, asked the maintenance man. it should be ask the shade tree mechanic Man
@@TheMaintenanceMan I don't post to youtube because I couldn't careless if people knew how to change their pad and rotor.....But if I did I would show them how to properly do it with out causing more damage to their brakes and calibers. If I remember right didn't you ask during the video if anybody has any advice to please post it? Me thinks ye a little to thin skinned
Thanks for the info, bleeding the brakes was the one thing I didn’t want to do. I changed the front pads and rotors not long after seeing this video, super easy!
U should turn on the car and pump the breaks i didnt do it and then i almost crash my car when i put it in drive right after lol i always now pump the breaks even when its off turn it on and pump it too and make sure ur pistons are out kus he pushed them all the eay in if u dont pump it when u push the break its only gunna come out alittle bit and the o ly u will have to atop the car is emergency break
Use the old brake pad when compressing the piston next time, then you don’t have to worry about messing it up. If it’s hard to press in, take the cap off the brake fluid reservoir. Also, don’t forget to grease the caliper pins and edge of pads that move (helps with noise). You should also spray rotors and drums with brake clean. They’re shipped with oil to help keep them from rusting and you want to get that off. As far as safety, I’d be real careful hammering away under a car held by a little scissor jack. I’d recommend investing in a floor jack and stands.
I like the average guy or girl diy videos at times over the super fast pro videos,, all I would say is since you are doing all the work to take apart why wouldn't you get a wire brush and brake clean and some silicon lubricant and clean that rust off and even change the metal clips that should come with brake pads, also most non coated rotors come with a slight film of oil from the factory on both sides so I would spray those with brake clean as well to make sure they're clean. thx for the video
One could use a 'C' clamp to compress the piston of the brake cylinder before installing it on the wheel.
and using the old brake pad on the piston to contact all of the surface.
You’re an absolute lifesaver
Or a literal brake piston compression tool they sell em for cheap on ebay works perfectly. Had mine for years.
Just replaced the front rotors on my toyota corolla 2007 yesterday. This video really helped me. Thanks
Turing the wheel left or right when your doing the front breaks. That way your head is not under the car if it comse down at all
Thanks for the video!
Great job.
There should be a couple of bolt holes on the face of the rotor. You drive a bolt in to push the rotor off (rather than bang with a hammer)
Yes, you are correct. Thanks for the tip.
The OEM ones have that but a lot of aftermarket ones don't, including the ones I got at NAPA
Yeah mine doesn't which I wish it did
You are whacking away on your vehicle while it is supported only by a scissor jack on very rough and uneven concrete. That is an extremely dangerous practice. You need to support your vehicle on something stable like jackstands every time you work on it when even one corner is lifted off the ground.
Good tip. That is definitely one way to secure this type of repair. I assure you it was very stable. I’m not in the habit of endangering myself. I also make sure to talk about safety in my videos. Again, thanks for being the safety police.
@@TheMaintenanceMan Well, I've seen scissor jacks fail even when just changing a tire. It doesn't take much to get them rocking.
Again, thank you for helping to keep people safe. I’m glad for your comment.
Went to a mechanic to replace the 2 front wheels rotors and pads and driver window motor without glass and he charged me 550$ !! Toyota 2007 Le
Using a factory scissor jack is dangerous. Loosening your bolts in a non cross formation is just bad etiquette and could cause a wheel to seem stuck from being cocked crooked by not relieving pressure in an even way around the circumference of the wheel
it is so funny how he uses hammer to remove rotor..., OMG, why ? you should use 10mm screw on that little rotor hole between mounting screw holes...
Use an old brake pad and a large enough C clamp
Great video, needed to know if toyota was different from other cars. Some tips, clean with a wire brush and put aluminum or copper paste on the wheel hub before putting the new rotor on, this will make it easier to remove next time, also makes the rotor alignment to the hub correct and flat. Also, should take out caliper pins (or sliders) clean (with nylon kitchen scourer or light wire brush) slightly and put brake grease on them (often brake pads come with this grease), this will keep pad and brake wear even for longer (usually change the rubber slider covers at the same time). Brake pad seating should also be cleaned with wire brush and put on the correct brake pad grease or anti seize. Use the correct greases as the temperatures get very high and do not get any grease on the brake disc. While cleaning you can use brake cleaner before you put the grease on all of these parts. When you compress the brake piston you can open the brake caliper bleed valve and you will take out some of the old brake fluid, catch, keep the old brake fluid in a container and dispose of the the old fluid correctly and environmentally. You do not have to do all of these things, but it is better if you do. Again, thanks for the video as I needed to see how this was done on a Corrola, I have done brakes on many other cars and all the greasing makes everything last longer and future maintenance easier. Here is an example of where to grease pads, ruclips.net/video/ow60E4ufW8U/видео.html and ruclips.net/video/cKpmBvfVYZg/видео.html
Thanks for all of that. Helping people is what it’s all about.
Not that everyone has one of these lying around but my rotors were frozen on and I couldn’t get them with a hammer. A few taps with a 15lb dumbbell knocked it loose quickly
Thank you for showing us all how to replace rotors and brake pads.
Lots and lots of rust.
Lucky you, I grew up in northeastern Wisconsin and remember rust everywhere. Now we
live in Southern California and there is little or no rust on our vehicles. The surprise is living within a few miles of the
Pacific ocean your car will rust from the top down. They will last only a few years.
For piston I use a 2 x 4 block and gently use a screw driver so as not to nick or damage the piston.
Be very careful not to damage or destroy your brake lines.
Thanks for the very good advice.
Removing old rotors
There are 2 threaded holes in the old rotors. Just run 2 bolts into those holes and tighten, the rotors pop off.
You don't need to hammer on them to remove them.
You can use a large C clamp to compress also
I use a brake caliper tool to compress. Just slide an old pad up against the piston and then you turn the knob.
Try a C clamp in stead of the channel wrench
Nice job!
Thanks for sharing the tip.
Kicking it might fall of the jack
great video!
You didn't torque any bolts to spec. $19.99 for a torque wrench at harbor freight... For example, you need those lug nuts torqued to 76 ft lbs according to Toyota.
You’re probably correct. Thanks for the tip. Have a great day.
Lug nuts aren't all THAT important to tighten to spec. After all nobody is expected to carry a torque wrench around with them when they change a flat tire out on the road are they?
@@chuckschillingvideos It was an example. The caliper bolt is spec at 79 ft lbs, if you'd like to know more. And, in your example, for putting on the spare tire and driving a few miles to the nearest tire shop... No, not a big deal. But, said tire shop will (should) then torque down the regular tire properly, after patching it.
This video is for a DIY professional brake job, so it needs to be done right. If you're doing your own brakes, then yes I absolutely expect you to at least have a $19 Harbor Freight torque wrench. What if they are aren't tight enough? Lugs backing out and you losing a wheel on the highway equals having a bad time. And, it's not a great idea to overtorque lugs because you can break or strip the wheel studs. On this particular car it wouldn't be that difficult to overdo it because 76 ftlbs isn't all that tight compared to other cars which spec at 100 and even well over that.
@@why97359 did you not see at the beginning of the video he says he wasn’t a mechanic ? Lol relax man
Thanks
Use the old pad to push tbe cylinder back without cousin any damage to it
Thank you sir.
Could have saved $350
I use a c-clamp for pushing the piston back in.
Don’t you gotta use torque wrench when installing brakes ?
It would help, but it’s not necessary. There are a lot of different ways to snug things up without buying a torque wrench.
unfortunately i live in colombia and our corollas were made in venezuela sonotsure if parts will fit exactly. still were did you get the discs?
I ordered them from amazon. Thanks for the question. Good luck.
Good video… thanks
you should have shown taking the cap off the brake reservoir and use the old brake pad and c clamp to push the rotor in evenly and also re grease the slide bolts and get the torque specs on the caliper bolts. You are definitely a shade tree mechanic
I’m not a mechanic… said that at the beginning.
@@TheMaintenanceMan Oh constructive advise is hard for you to take...I'm sorry I guess just keep showing people how to f up a caliber with a pair of channel locks...You go by the name, asked the maintenance man. it should be ask the shade tree mechanic Man
Are you seriously being a troll? Please post the link below to your perfect RUclips caliper change video.
@@TheMaintenanceMan I don't post to youtube because I couldn't careless if people knew how to change their pad and rotor.....But if I did I would show them how to properly do it with out causing more damage to their brakes and calibers. If I remember right didn't you ask during the video if anybody has any advice to please post it? Me thinks ye a little to thin skinned
Your advise is to call names??
Where you buy the rotor from
Amazon. Just make sure you get the right one for your car.
@@TheMaintenanceMan I have a 2007 Toyota Corolla S I heard there are good and bad ones ?
Probably. The rule I go buy is ‘you get what you’re willing to pay for’.
Thanks for the video. Did you have to bleed the brake system?
No I did not have to bleed the brakes. Thanks for your question.
You only bleed out if you replaced the cylinder
Thanks for the info, bleeding the brakes was the one thing I didn’t want to do. I changed the front pads and rotors not long after seeing this video, super easy!
U should turn on the car and pump the breaks i didnt do it and then i almost crash my car when i put it in drive right after lol i always now pump the breaks even when its off turn it on and pump it too and make sure ur pistons are out kus he pushed them all the eay in if u dont pump it when u push the break its only gunna come out alittle bit and the o ly u will have to atop the car is emergency break
Hearing protection lol, you the type of guy to wear a mask while driving alone in the car
dumb comparison