It may be helpful to put some silicone paste on the bolts as they are moving parts. Also some antifreeze on the clips and the back where the piston comes in contact the back side of the pad. Anywhere metal meets metal should be lubed.
I had a problem the down bolt of the caliper went all the way out and it does not come in hence i cant fit the thicker new pads , any one who ran into this problem and solve it??
Damn my luck, everytime I Google something to check out real quick, I randomly pick a video, I get the metric version, I gotta pay more attention to what I pick.
That certainly is a time saving and quick way to do it for sure..however I always take the caliper assembly completely off and secure it to the strut as I prefer to remove the 2 slider pins to check, clean, and lubricate.
Question. Do you have to purge the system by removing the brake line nut, pump the brake padel and open and close the port. It's that something that needs to be done after replacing the brake pads and rotors?
You only need to purge or "bleed" the brake system if you are disconnecting the bangobolt located on the calipers. Air doesn't get inside the system by simply replacing brake pads.
Your Corolla looks alot different than the 2006 Corolla here in Canada... and 4 bolt hub pattern vs 5 here. I'm also a fan of always replacing the rotor when doing pads - in the event the rotor is worn poorly, has a bad rim, etc etc. You didn't mention about transferring clips - I have watched a number of these and some have clips, others do not.. so am wondering why that is...
Never, leave your brakes caliper hanging like that, always use a caliper hook, you're putting strain on the brake hose. And, don't forget to grease the ears of the brakes and always clean the mount bracket and everything must be torque at the factory spec.
great vid, 1 question though. is it necessary to pump the breaks before you start driving? and if you need to pump the breaks , do you pump them when after you've replaced the breakpads on the left and right side or do you pump the breaks after you did 1 side and than pump again when youve finished the other side?
Old pads have 2 shims per pad total inner & outer 4 shims per side. 8 per vehicle. New pads come with 1 shim per pad. Should you reuse outside shiny stainless shims over new pads or not?
Brakes are the most common replacement every car owner have to do most often, because you cannot simply ignore it no one knows when it will leave you helpless on the round. manyautosltd.com is my car doctor they know what to do with my car and when
@@ProfeCreepyAdventures They mean to take a wire brush to them and possibly turn them on a lathe to correct for runout and warping. (In the vîdeo I assume he deemed them within spec when he used the micrometer and ruler. - "runout" is grooving of the rotor - "warping" is uneven thickness or just wear beyond the rotors specified minimum thickness
You neglected to mention that you need to pump the brake to bring the piston back out before driving.
It may be helpful to put some silicone paste on the bolts as they are moving parts. Also some antifreeze on the clips and the back where the piston comes in contact the back side of the pad. Anywhere metal meets metal should be lubed.
antifreeze???
I think he meant antiseize
Great video...learnt a few things. Will try replace mine tomorrow!
Glad it helped
Useful
Now you save yourself $300, mate.
Where did you get those jack stands?
Thnx!
I had a problem the down bolt of the caliper went all the way out and it does not come in hence i cant fit the thicker new pads , any one who ran into this problem and solve it??
Damn my luck, everytime I Google something to check out real quick, I randomly pick a video, I get the metric version, I gotta pay more attention to what I pick.
I'm glad you stumbled upon this video :)
Your voice is so soothing.
Does it make a difference if you dont cover the front license plate with a white rag??
It's better if you use a black rag. I do
Great video.. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
I never heard a C-clamp called a G-clamp. But, you know, I can see why. Thank you for the vid.
40mm socket!?
Thanks Champion
Awesome, thanks a lot for the information. Cheers
That certainly is a time saving and quick way to do it for sure..however I always take the caliper assembly completely off and secure it to the strut as I prefer to remove the 2 slider pins to check, clean, and lubricate.
What else can you use to reset the caliper?
3:11 - noticed that old brakes pad show sign of wearing evenly. The caliper slider pins might not enough lubricate.
Nice video very helpful
you don't torque the nuts / bolts / sockets?
You need to bleed the line so no air in lines
Only if you remove the brake line
Question. Do you have to purge the system by removing the brake line nut, pump the brake padel and open and close the port. It's that something that needs to be done after replacing the brake pads and rotors?
You only need to purge or "bleed" the brake system if you are disconnecting the bangobolt located on the calipers. Air doesn't get inside the system by simply replacing brake pads.
Nice video Very Helpful 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Your Corolla looks alot different than the 2006 Corolla here in Canada... and 4 bolt hub pattern vs 5 here. I'm also a fan of always replacing the rotor when doing pads - in the event the rotor is worn poorly, has a bad rim, etc etc. You didn't mention about transferring clips - I have watched a number of these and some have clips, others do not.. so am wondering why that is...
These cars have more than one manufacturer of calipers. Some use them, some don't. Simple.
Great video bro
Appreciate it!
Never, leave your brakes caliper hanging like that, always use a caliper hook, you're putting strain on the brake hose. And, don't forget to grease the ears of the brakes and always clean the mount bracket and everything must be torque at the factory spec.
Do you know torque specs?
What are you talking about, he didnt leave the caliper hanging from the brake line. It was just rotated a bit
great vid, 1 question though. is it necessary to pump the breaks before you start driving?
and if you need to pump the breaks , do you pump them when after you've replaced the breakpads on the left and right side or do you pump the breaks after you did 1 side and than pump again when youve finished the other side?
replace the pads on both sides then pump about 10 times because if u don't u won't have brakes to start off with
heya, thanks for the info, it worked out fine.
@@ethanstewart3386 TY!
Great video
thanks sir
thank you
What tools did I need
captivity
The brake pad wear indicator was not what you pointed to.
wow. nice video.
Old pads have 2 shims per pad total inner & outer 4 shims per side. 8 per vehicle. New pads come with 1 shim per pad. Should you reuse outside shiny stainless shims over new pads or not?
Brakes are the most common replacement every car owner have to do most often, because you cannot simply ignore it no one knows when it will leave you helpless on the round. manyautosltd.com is my car doctor they know what to do with my car and when
Excellent
whats the difference between sumitomo akebono and lucas braking systems?
always turn your rotors
What do you mean?
@@ProfeCreepyAdventures They mean to take a wire brush to them and possibly turn them on a lathe to correct for runout and warping.
(In the vîdeo I assume he deemed them within spec when he used the micrometer and ruler.
- "runout" is grooving of the rotor
- "warping" is uneven thickness or just wear beyond the rotors specified minimum thickness
remove this video please, you are not teaching the required steps in doing a brake job correctly
I agree!
expert autodetail, I agree remove it!
I’d rather watch this video and learn myself than send my car to a lying, uneducated, overpriced mechanic like yourself.
@@theprince3020 i am not a mechanic, a diy person, buy toyota brand pads only .
Hi I was just wondering if you maybe had another reference to learn whats required/why? Thanks!