Thank you for the video! I use Orca slicer instead of creality print and I incorporated the bamboo X1C profile with accelleration, jerk, quality, speed, etc. It turns out to dramatically improve the consistency between layers with little to no performance hit (sometimes gain). Just a little changes that I did: - Retraction 0.8 - Auto Z-hop - travel distance threhold 1mm - retraction and deretraction speed both at 30mm/s -wipe distance 2 mm and retract amount before wipe 0 -Adjusted the Jerk to 9mm/s = x and y 3 mm/x =z - z max acceleration - 500mm/s^3 0.2 mm layer with 0.4mm nozzle: - used the bambu labs x1c profile For PLA: - 99% shrinkage - 0.98 flow ratio - I did some flow calibrations and i managed to get a max of 30 mm^3/s with filamentone, inland and polyterra pla at 235 C and 60 C - min print speed 20 mm/s - 100% fan speeds - min fan speed threshold 100% layer time 100 s - Max fan speed threshold 100% layer time 5 s
Everyone in our discord group tells me I should convert over to orca. I maybe will eventually but im happy with I got right now. it works and I need simple right now. I have been hearing chat that theyre releasing a software update on our printer soon.
orcaslicer is awesome to use and i would consider it. they just released a new version today. Did your group mention when they will release it?@@CarsN3dPrinting
Congratulations, one of the better explainations I've seen. Showing these more practical basic tuning/setups I think helps more than the vast majority of documentation.
yeah I know what you mean. I spent the last two days and a ton of filament running tests. then I ran it stock after gettign stumped on where to proceed next and other than an issue where teh layers started to delaminate at the bottom , the stock settings had everything else better in the final print after you do all the testing. I thing as you said, just low things down.
I apologize for the late reply but the discord group is just "Creality" with their updated logo as the image. I'll be real honest with you, the Facebook group is toxic and just constantly filled with spam. If you want the best help/info/update go to the discord group. Candyman, Nikoli, Shima, and other people in the group are experienced vets at 3D printing and will help you out.
Thank you for the video! I use Orca slicer instead of creality print and I incorporated the bamboo X1C profile with accelleration, jerk, quality, speed, etc. It turns out to dramatically improve the consistency between layers with little to no performance hit (sometimes gain).
Just a little changes that I did:
- Retraction 0.8
- Auto Z-hop
- travel distance threhold 1mm
- retraction and deretraction speed both at 30mm/s
-wipe distance 2 mm and retract amount before wipe 0
-Adjusted the Jerk to 9mm/s = x and y 3 mm/x =z
- z max acceleration - 500mm/s^3
0.2 mm layer with 0.4mm nozzle:
- used the bambu labs x1c profile
For PLA:
- 99% shrinkage
- 0.98 flow ratio
- I did some flow calibrations and i managed to get a max of 30 mm^3/s with filamentone, inland and polyterra pla at 235 C and 60 C
- min print speed 20 mm/s
- 100% fan speeds
- min fan speed threshold 100% layer time 100 s
- Max fan speed threshold 100% layer time 5 s
Everyone in our discord group tells me I should convert over to orca. I maybe will eventually but im happy with I got right now. it works and I need simple right now. I have been hearing chat that theyre releasing a software update on our printer soon.
orcaslicer is awesome to use and i would consider it. they just released a new version today.
Did your group mention when they will release it?@@CarsN3dPrinting
Thank you for a very complete description of how to tune the first (or two) layer(s).
Congratulations, one of the better explainations I've seen. Showing these more practical basic tuning/setups I think helps more than the vast majority of documentation.
yeah I know what you mean. I spent the last two days and a ton of filament running tests. then I ran it stock after gettign stumped on where to proceed next and other than an issue where teh layers started to delaminate at the bottom , the stock settings had everything else better in the final print after you do all the testing. I thing as you said, just low things down.
Merci.
Ok, now run a test sheet over the whole bed. Doesn't help to show such a small piece when the whole bed warps.
What is the facebook group for the k1?
facebook or discord?
@@CarsN3dPrinting Both if you don't mind!
I apologize for the late reply but the discord group is just "Creality" with their updated logo as the image. I'll be real honest with you, the Facebook group is toxic and just constantly filled with spam. If you want the best help/info/update go to the discord group. Candyman, Nikoli, Shima, and other people in the group are experienced vets at 3D printing and will help you out.
Could you share profiles ??