I'd caution you that plastic blocks UV depending on the wavelength. So that clear plastic riser, while clear to visible light, may not be clear to UV light. This may help explain why the new curing oven is faster than that old.
An easy way to test would be to shine the UV light through the material onto a highligher. UV resin cures at the same wavelength highlighers flouresce, around 400nm. If it doesn't interfere that much with the highligher, you're good!
@@ancienttech4603 you just saved me a bunch of money on a curing box! thank you. i didnt know that. i have some old led grow lights laying around, ill just prop them up inside and upturned 5galon bucket and turn the printed model every few minutes. how long should i cure my models?
Fantastic video. I'm waiting on my resin printer to arrive and I'm educating myself on DIY projects needed prior to printing. I'll be building it today. Nothing as fancy as the bread box but it'll get the job done. Thanks!
loooooove this, looks cool too! I love finding random solutions on amazon, nice QOL functionality with thoes easy push buttons. If that thing wasn't AC I'd want to break it out into it's own 3D printed bezel and integrate it into the top like a finished product. man i love 3D printing! I've been using my Bambu X1C for a bit and just got a Mars SLA printer so I'm stepping into that world now and vids like these are VERY HELPFUL!
Michael Philbrick Great idea. I'm building one! So I started soldering today and realized it's really going to take a lot of time. So I found some connectors on Amazon for about $14 for 30 double ended connectors so that I instead of soldering I can just snap on connectors which is way worth it for me. Can't wait to use it. Thanks for the tip. Just go to Amazon and search for LED connectors 8MM and get the ones with connectors on both ends.
UV blocking lenses for cameras are crazy cheap on ebay, you could add one into one of the flat sides and be able to see the part without the harmful UV
Is the gap in the top of the breadbox that lets the UV light out a concern? Seems like it would be best to have tape, plastic, etc to cover the gap up.
Good on the transparent stand in the green box, many people just put their prints flat down but even on a reflective surface the flat bottoms are in the dark. But I suspect it's plastic, and it should be glass - plastic stops UV rays too well.
The uv led that you're showing has a watt output of 12 watt about, is it enough for a fast curing? I'm building my oven, I did research and, correct me please if I'm wrong, alongside the proper wave length, 360-400 nm, watt is an important factor to speed up the process. I'm building fishing lures, may your needs are different than mine, I need a cure time of 1 hour maximum, so again, what about watt? Your led with a 13 watt output about provides a fast curing time or not? Thanks for your help!
I love it! Great DIY build. I've had similar experiences where I've thought, "There must be a solution out there for this." Perfect 'cap' to your whole curing station solution. ;-)
I just finished my UV oven and it's very bitchin. I made a change because I don't like soldering and used LED connectors which I recommend. But it's just cool. Thanks for the tip. Oh yeah, I put LED strips on the bottom as well. -Mike
@@numberjackfiutro7412 You realize 3D printing has been around for over 30 years right? Only 3D printing that's in its infancy is desktop based SLS solutions. FDM/FFM have been on desktops for over a decade, and SLA has been around for a few years now. You can literally pick up a FDM machine at your local computer store or even the hardware store in the US. I think even Best Buy is selling filament now. In Australia you can take your happy self to Aldi, get some groceries, and grab a cheap 3D printer. Would hardly call that something in its infancy.
Lovely ! I’ve just got a form 2 - and one feature missing from all diy cute stations I’ve seen - regulated heat. Formlabs make a point that most resins cure best the right intensity uv, and also a specific temperature . Any thoughts how to get heat and a thermometer into this ? I’ve been toying with converting a mini desk top oven ...
hello, nice clean build! could you do me a favour and test one of your prints for scratch resistance? i recently built my own uv chamber, similar to yours but with even more power (no flex intended). However, the print surface remains weaker (not scratch resistant) than the fully cured resin of the bottom layers that are in direct contact with the build plate (scratch resistant).
This is great. Too bad I can't find that exact timer, but I found one similar. My resin printer will be here in 2 days, but my lights won't be here for a week.. Looks like I'll be going old school with plain old sunlight until then! Gives me a week to build my box. Good thing I have a roll of insanely reflective mirror like mylar. I'm going for a plywood box instead. Something I can make 3d printed trim for.
Any hints on tape that won't just fall off in a cold garage? I've redone mine with fresh 3M double sided adhesive after thinking the stuff that came with the lights was bad, and still it's falling off. Yes, cleaned with strong alcohol first (and used some on the box as well).
Okay, months later and having to reposition the light strips every time I open the box. The strips fall off the double sided tape, or get yanked off running the door past them. This was NOT a good idea for a container, due to the way the door works, and the tape is sorely in need of a mechanical fastener of some sort to prevent it from letting go. Thanks for the ideas, I'm off to find a better solution.
I have a combined resin print cleaner and hardener. It is a 3lt ultrasonic cleaner with IPA,and a 30w uv light as top. You can clean and harden prints in one machine. Total cost about 90€. Hardrning time 1-2hours , cleaning time 30sec/3min deprnding on model.
Just a heads up, even though it's an easy solder, you need to scrape the goo off the LED strips until they're shiny, otherwise you're going to have a dickens of a time getting your initial solder blob to stick
Personally, I'm just sitting on the mailing list for the Peopoly Maoi 200. Once they finalize a price, release them, and a few reviews are out, I'll likely be pulling the trigger on that. And then I'll be building a Frankenstein's monster of both of Sean's solutions.
Decent video. It wasn't really a guide on how to make it but decent attempt anyways. One note is that the waterproof UV strips wear out due to the UV light making the protective plastic into a horrible yellow tacky substance that doesn't let any light through. I would recommend using non-waterproof strips instead for this use.
I think in the original box I use mirrors that were ment to stick on walls like back in the 70's 12x12" you could tape the sides together then cover it with rigid foam siliconed on. if you can cut glass then place the led strips in it and hinged the lid. I don't think foil is reflective enough. I'm pretty sure you can still buy 12x12 mirrors. on your bread box design you need to cover the gap with a uv blocking film that's going to protect your eyes. its natural for somone to catch that out of the conner of there eye or look at it because its bright. better safe than blind.
I've built a curing station with the exact same LEDs but the prints are taing forever to cure. Even after a few hours they are still sticky. Whats going on?
Awesome tutorial! I used the links to purchase the components (I used a bamboo breadbox instead of a metal one and lined it with reflective vinyl). My first few resin prints cured in a manner of minutes. Here is the finished product: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1__82yXCTIimqTSUXhG1K87coXV_qtWdh?usp=sharing
Stop your lens down. I can see the longitudinal chromatic aberration on the foreground element and it looks busy. Is this shot on some sort of zoom lens?
In general I don't recommend sun curing - it's so intense (at least here in CA) that I have had too many prints warp and/or break. This is more controlled.
Ikea as mirror (Malma 10" x 10") for $2.99 CDN each, If you put the mirror as wall and bottom inside the box with a mirror turn table ( about $25 at Amazon), and the blacklight on the selling of the box will that not work?
Black lights are UV lights but at a lower wavelength. As far as I understand you could technically do it but it would take much longer than even the nail salon lamp
Replying to an old comment, but here's my advice: The power rating is not enough to go by. Ideally check if the LEDs have a spec sheet. It should have a detailed breakdown(or chart) of the emitted wavelengths. A 60W and 24W LED strip might produce the same amount of of UV light, but the higher power one also produces more visible light(or even just waste heat) that does not help with curing resin.
Formlabs repeatedly says the parts should be heated to 60 degrees C when curing. (which is on the chart you pasted to your oven). If you read their white papers it says it is as important as the UV light. Have you considered instead using a small toaster oven?
But... you are not actually showing "how to build it".. Instead you are showing the end results, tell us why you build it and what the difference is compared to your old one, while in between you verbally express partially what you did.
Orlando Fontanez while I don’t think the LED’s could get it to the recommended 60 Celsius (140 Fahrenheit) I wouldn’t put my hand to it - just to be safe .
Will not work on glass though, there you need a special carbide bit that gradually grinds the desired diameter hole. Cheap way is to use tile drill bits with a teardrop shape, with plenty of lubrication, and when the tip just penetrates through flip the glass over and finish from the other side.
From what I am seeing you can create that curing time sheet using the info from support.formlabs.com/s/article/Form-Cure-Time-and-Temperature-Settings?language=en_US
![OhGeesy x Lefty Gunplay - What It Iz [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/L0yzW9t2ixk/mqdefault.jpg)
I'd caution you that plastic blocks UV depending on the wavelength. So that clear plastic riser, while clear to visible light, may not be clear to UV light. This may help explain why the new curing oven is faster than that old.
I was about to mention that. Yeah, most plexiglass is like that. So is glass, very often.
An easy way to test would be to shine the UV light through the material onto a highligher. UV resin cures at the same wavelength highlighers flouresce, around 400nm. If it doesn't interfere that much with the highligher, you're good!
@@ancienttech4603 you just saved me a bunch of money on a curing box! thank you. i didnt know that. i have some old led grow lights laying around, ill just prop them up inside and upturned 5galon bucket and turn the printed model every few minutes. how long should i cure my models?
Fantastic video. I'm waiting on my resin printer to arrive and I'm educating myself on DIY projects needed prior to printing. I'll be building it today. Nothing as fancy as the bread box but it'll get the job done. Thanks!
Just completed mine today ! Learned how to solder by doing this, few burns but it works perfectly!!!
loooooove this, looks cool too! I love finding random solutions on amazon, nice QOL functionality with thoes easy push buttons. If that thing wasn't AC I'd want to break it out into it's own 3D printed bezel and integrate it into the top like a finished product. man i love 3D printing! I've been using my Bambu X1C for a bit and just got a Mars SLA printer so I'm stepping into that world now and vids like these are VERY HELPFUL!
I just want to say "Thank you, thank you, thank you" for the amazon wish list link!
Michael Philbrick
Great idea. I'm building one! So I started soldering today and realized it's really going to take a lot of time. So I found some connectors on Amazon for about $14 for 30 double ended connectors so that I instead of soldering I can just snap on connectors which is way worth it for me. Can't wait to use it. Thanks for the tip. Just go to Amazon and search for LED connectors 8MM and get the ones with connectors on both ends.
Perhaps add a micro-switch to cut the 12V when the lid is opened?
Once again... DIY saved me $$$. Thanks Adam.
I built one using a shoebox, aluminium foil and UV led strips. Works very well 😊.
Since you have the UV LEDs, you could put them in your hat box to replace the nail salon lights. Then you'll have 2!
I was thinking the same thing... and you could run the LED strip along the bottom to get underneath the print!
Amazing project! Do you all think it will work with a UV led Strip with DC 12 V, 395-405nm, Wattage: 05 watts for one meter? Thank you!!!
That's pretty neat! Hopefully i'll have an SLA printer myself someday.
Super cool! Could you share that cure time label too?
Just got done building this. Works great!
UV blocking lenses for cameras are crazy cheap on ebay, you could add one into one of the flat sides and be able to see the part without the harmful UV
Is the gap in the top of the breadbox that lets the UV light out a concern? Seems like it would be best to have tape, plastic, etc to cover the gap up.
Just drape a cloth over it maybe?
Do you douse yourself in sunscreen every time you leave the house due to UV concerns too?
Why? Can't resist staring into the light?
Good on the transparent stand in the green box, many people just put their prints flat down but even on a reflective surface the flat bottoms are in the dark.
But I suspect it's plastic, and it should be glass - plastic stops UV rays too well.
Nice build. The "clear riser" in your old box is probably not clear to UV.
Outstanding breadbox design! I've been looking for a cheaper DIY curing station method.
The uv led that you're showing has a watt output of 12 watt about, is it enough for a fast curing? I'm building my oven, I did research and, correct me please if I'm wrong, alongside the proper wave length, 360-400 nm, watt is an important factor to speed up the process. I'm building fishing lures, may your needs are different than mine, I need a cure time of 1 hour maximum, so again, what about watt? Your led with a 13 watt output about provides a fast curing time or not? Thanks for your help!
Thanks for the timer info, had been looking for one like that as well.
I love it! Great DIY build. I've had similar experiences where I've thought, "There must be a solution out there for this." Perfect 'cap' to your whole curing station solution. ;-)
I just finished my UV oven and it's very bitchin. I made a change because I don't like soldering and used LED connectors which I recommend. But it's just cool. Thanks for the tip. Oh yeah, I put LED strips on the bottom as well.
-Mike
Looks cool, is there a video that actually shows you how to make it though?
Just shared with my local FabLab! Such a great idea!
That looks great! Have you considered building a base for the unit, so you can mount the switch?
more 3d printing videos plz! :)
3d printing is still in it's infancy, but it has kilotons of potential. It could possibly leave the government in the dust to boot!
@@numberjackfiutro7412 You realize 3D printing has been around for over 30 years right? Only 3D printing that's in its infancy is desktop based SLS solutions. FDM/FFM have been on desktops for over a decade, and SLA has been around for a few years now. You can literally pick up a FDM machine at your local computer store or even the hardware store in the US. I think even Best Buy is selling filament now. In Australia you can take your happy self to Aldi, get some groceries, and grab a cheap 3D printer. Would hardly call that something in its infancy.
Lovely ! I’ve just got a form 2 - and one feature missing from all diy cute stations I’ve seen - regulated heat. Formlabs make a point that most resins cure best the right intensity uv, and also a specific temperature . Any thoughts how to get heat and a thermometer into this ? I’ve been toying with converting a mini desk top oven ...
Excellent. Thanks!
hello, nice clean build! could you do me a favour and test one of your prints for scratch resistance? i recently built my own uv chamber, similar to yours but with even more power (no flex intended). However, the print surface remains weaker (not scratch resistant) than the fully cured resin of the bottom layers that are in direct contact with the build plate (scratch resistant).
I see you cure them with the supports, why? Makes it a lot harder to remove them
Just what I was looking for!
Hey rapidled sells a puck of 400nm uv LEDs for 32 bucks.... Would that be good for this? Or they even sell individual diodes for like 4 bucks each...
This is great. Too bad I can't find that exact timer, but I found one similar. My resin printer will be here in 2 days, but my lights won't be here for a week.. Looks like I'll be going old school with plain old sunlight until then! Gives me a week to build my box. Good thing I have a roll of insanely reflective mirror like mylar. I'm going for a plywood box instead. Something I can make 3d printed trim for.
Any hints on tape that won't just fall off in a cold garage? I've redone mine with fresh 3M double sided adhesive after thinking the stuff that came with the lights was bad, and still it's falling off. Yes, cleaned with strong alcohol first (and used some on the box as well).
Okay, months later and having to reposition the light strips every time I open the box. The strips fall off the double sided tape, or get yanked off running the door past them. This was NOT a good idea for a container, due to the way the door works, and the tape is sorely in need of a mechanical fastener of some sort to prevent it from letting go. Thanks for the ideas, I'm off to find a better solution.
I love the Cure time table on the oven too! Where did you get that and can I get one? (My work has 3 Form 2 printers and could use this).
would love that to ... please share it
I have a combined resin print cleaner and hardener. It is a 3lt ultrasonic cleaner with IPA,and a 30w uv light as top. You can clean and harden prints in one machine. Total cost about 90€. Hardrning time 1-2hours , cleaning time 30sec/3min deprnding on model.
Care to share a link? Many thanks
@@danirose9276 got no documentation, I may do a video on it some day on my chsnnel
Thank you Sean 👋🏻
For those who are not keen on soldering you can buy 2-pole led strip connectors for cheap
I always love some functional ghetto engineering.
It shows the the true character of a creative being!
Just a heads up, even though it's an easy solder, you need to scrape the goo off the LED strips until they're shiny, otherwise you're going to have a dickens of a time getting your initial solder blob to stick
If you remove the underside double side tape, the round contacts are clean
Thank you!
Good lord! Where can i get that shirt?
etsy.me/2DyvnwB
Nice print, wish shirt was a little heavier
On the internets, by googling Rachel Godmachine.
@@CworthDynamics Welp... guess that's where all my shirts are coming from for a while. LOL.
@@CworthDynamics 15 dollars for this badass blade runner shirt. fuck yeah
@@Aleph-Noll And shipping charge?
Love the shirt!
This could probably also be used when applying RetroBright.
Yes I can confirm it does
I love this.
Who else watches it but never tries it..
If only I could justify buying such an expensive 3D printer in the first place...
I didn't even understand what the title was about. I was just curious about how to build something that I knew nothing about.
Considering I /and probably few others that watch this) don't even have a 3D printer..
Personally, I'm just sitting on the mailing list for the Peopoly Maoi 200. Once they finalize a price, release them, and a few reviews are out, I'll likely be pulling the trigger on that. And then I'll be building a Frankenstein's monster of both of Sean's solutions.
yuuup bc: POOR GANG
Decent video. It wasn't really a guide on how to make it but decent attempt anyways. One note is that the waterproof UV strips wear out due to the UV light making the protective plastic into a horrible yellow tacky substance that doesn't let any light through. I would recommend using non-waterproof strips instead for this use.
I think in the original box I use mirrors that were ment to stick on walls like back in the 70's
12x12" you could tape the sides together then cover it with rigid foam siliconed on.
if you can cut glass then place the led strips in it and hinged the lid.
I don't think foil is reflective enough. I'm pretty sure you can still buy 12x12 mirrors.
on your bread box design you need to cover the gap with a uv blocking film that's going to protect your eyes. its natural for somone to catch that out of the conner of there eye or look at it because its bright. better safe than blind.
Glass can absorb UV rays. Mirrors are not the optimal solution. :)
I've built a curing station with the exact same LEDs but the prints are taing forever to cure. Even after a few hours they are still sticky. Whats going on?
Awesome tutorial! I used the links to purchase the components (I used a bamboo breadbox instead of a metal one and lined it with reflective vinyl). My first few resin prints cured in a manner of minutes. Here is the finished product: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1__82yXCTIimqTSUXhG1K87coXV_qtWdh?usp=sharing
Some great ideas there for 'The Martian' 2..
What are the connectors you used to join the sections of LED strip?
Where can I get my hands on some?
Seems to be heat shrink tubing.
Stop your lens down. I can see the longitudinal chromatic aberration on the foreground element and it looks busy. Is this shot on some sort of zoom lens?
To me it just looks like all of the brightly colored studio lighting they use reflecting in high contrast. I dont see the abberation.
Awesome stuff as usual, this is better than the sun I guess, it’s neater but still pretty sure the sun is more powerful in terms of speed of curing
Depends on where in the world you are located, up here north it is we only have a few hours of light per day and it is -5C right now.
Fair enough, I’m smack dab on the equator, that may explain it
In general I don't recommend sun curing - it's so intense (at least here in CA) that I have had too many prints warp and/or break. This is more controlled.
Really trying how to work out the wiring between body and door. How about a detailed look at your build?
Thanks a lot for this. I didn't want to invest 200$ in a curing/washing station. Instead I got a string of UV LED for 9$ XD
Good video. 👏🙌👍👌
Question: I want to build a small box in MDF, for reflective material can I use mirror?
Ikea as mirror (Malma 10" x 10") for $2.99 CDN each, If you put the mirror as wall and bottom inside the box with a mirror turn table ( about $25 at Amazon), and the blacklight on the selling of the box will that not work?
is there a source for your easy bake time table?
please make: how to make a youtube comment
Do we have to use a blacklight uv led strip? Or an ordinary uv led strip will do the job?
Black lights are UV lights but at a lower wavelength. As far as I understand you could technically do it but it would take much longer than even the nail salon lamp
@@CworthDynamics I see. Thanks for the thorough explanation! Black light leds are hard to get in my country unfortunately :(
How are you applying heat?
Hello I found on Amazon an UV LED strip between 395 to 405 NM by 60w.
Is more wats better ? Like 60w vs 24w?
Replying to an old comment, but here's my advice: The power rating is not enough to go by. Ideally check if the LEDs have a spec sheet. It should have a detailed breakdown(or chart) of the emitted wavelengths. A 60W and 24W LED strip might produce the same amount of of UV light, but the higher power one also produces more visible light(or even just waste heat) that does not help with curing resin.
Formlabs repeatedly says the parts should be heated to 60 degrees C when curing. (which is on the chart you pasted to your oven). If you read their white papers it says it is as important as the UV light. Have you considered instead using a small toaster oven?
When will Adam let us watch his first One Day Build of 2019?
You put main voltage on the top of it, you need to ground the metal box didn't ya?
But... you are not actually showing "how to build it".. Instead you are showing the end results, tell us why you build it and what the difference is compared to your old one, while in between you verbally express partially what you did.
What happens when you over cure it?
awesome.
Clever!🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻👍🏻
But does the internal chamber reach 60c??
You can get an assortment of rubber grommets from Harbor Freight for 5 bucks.
neat!
Where do you get that timer from?
its linked in the discription.
EZ-cure oven. I think that sounds nicer and avoids existing prominent product names.
Wow nice does the metal get hot
Orlando Fontanez while I don’t think the LED’s could get it to the recommended 60 Celsius (140 Fahrenheit) I wouldn’t put my hand to it - just to be safe .
No, mildly warm inside
Wish I knew about a step bit when I added tempered glass on my pc
Will not work on glass though, there you need a special carbide bit that gradually grinds the desired diameter hole. Cheap way is to use tile drill bits with a teardrop shape, with plenty of lubrication, and when the tip just penetrates through flip the glass over and finish from the other side.
SeanBZA on the case the glass was pre drilled from the suppler for me
Kool
How are you 🤔
SLA the Symbionese Liberation Army. They’re into printing?
Yep, they're back in business again. The Hearst legacy lives on 🗞️
From what I am seeing you can create that curing time sheet using the info from support.formlabs.com/s/article/Form-Cure-Time-and-Temperature-Settings?language=en_US
Hello
26
I love how nerdy u are... hehe sorry
Uuuuuuuu
Early squad
yap