I was in the comment section when that part came up of how to add an extra 30 mm🤣.... that was pretty great, to do so I need to and then he disassembles the whole machine! I love engineering! There's always that one little part you forget that cost you hours of build time but at least you've gotten the rhythm of putting it together now!
That last shot of you sitting on the build platform all Zen-like as it rose was epic!! There aren't too many out there tackling the challenge of building a large format printer. Only other one I know of is David Florian (Dr. D-Flo).
With that size bed, I would've recommended a rack and pinion drive mechanism rather than a belt, which is prone to stretching under load. This is of particular concern, given the dynamic nature of the load as you print.
These high quality steel belts will do just fine at that huge width. Other parts are going to bend before any damaging amount of stretch happens. I'm sure he is going to use leveling on his bed which will compensate as time goes on. Even if they do stretch over time, it's going to be a slow process over time that will not make a measurable amount of difference during even a week long print.
@@csorrows I'm not talking about stretching from one print to the hundredth print. I'm talking about during a print. Even just a small amount of stretch, in the region considered negligible by the manufacturer, can result in dimensional changes to the printed part.
@@thomasbonse I guess your concern is valid. But you have to think in an all difetrnt direction. This printer is so bigg, you have to be happy if you have mm accursce. I mean even centimeters would not be crasy noticabel in the end
@@thomasbonse On a traditional printer perhaps sub-tenth-mm matters for extrusion on a 0.6mm nozzle...this machine won't be making layers that thin, and any dynamic loading will vary proportional to the print progress, so any stretch on the belt will be proportional to one layer of print, barely changing anything. Worst worst case is the software needs calibrating that the final height be off by a few mm for a hundred kg part.
@@frollard You're assuming even loading of the platform, which is not guaranteed. This is one of the reasons why even cheap and small printers don't use belts for the Z-axis.
Cables work but they don't add as much rigidity as thread all. Cables will also allow vibrations to transfer to the frame more readily. Thread all gives you the ability to use them like iron rods but also the convenience of adjusting the size without having to cut them. It's a more rigid design using the thread all and that's what you need in a printer. We use cables in aviation because they are lighter and they allow for Flex. Flex is the enemy of this machine
@@MachineManGabb why would you dislike? Why not just correct or at least share your opinion so that if you're wrong you can be corrected. That's how we learn!
_Damn._ That is one heck of a demonstration at the end! I mean, with the bed already weighing in at a positively _chonky_ 15 kilos, I wasn't too concerned with it being able to support what it was printing...but _wow!_ As always, I appreciate it when experienced makers leave the mistakes and setbacks in their build videos, it inspires and reassures people who _aren't_ crazy top-tier makers to see that _everyone_ makes mistakes. 👍
The most useful lesson from this video is: if the costs in time/materials to correct a mistake is high enough, printing out nice plans and referring to them is cheap insurance against such beautiful mistakes that take so long to correct. I’m glad to see you’re human!
I feel so bad you had to take it apart. I was so happy at first at how easily you fit the z axis linear rails carriage on. I was wondering about that at the end of the previous video.
14:41 a good way to put balls in that track is with a pick and place with the narrow tip on. You can pick up the ball, push it in place and no balls will be harmed/lost in the process.
Incredible build, if you carry on like this you'll be making 3D houses. But, just wondering why you didn't lift the bed with threaded bar and have the heavy steppers on the static frame.
The inexpensive threaded rod, like what he uses to fasten longer parts together with, can have some imperfections in the threading. Not enough to interfere with a nut too much, but maybe enough to throw off the precision Ivan wants with the bed motion.
Probably because in case something fails, the threaded bar will bind up, given that the print might weighs 100+ kg, that would be pretty difficult to fix, a beld can simply be cut. Not to mention that 4 rotating rods are much more dangerous, that 4 beld wheels that can easily be shielded, a printer that size isnt a toy, it has enough force to lose a few fingers.
Sir, after going through making the board connectors you didn't use crimp lugs or ferrules on the power wires? 😱😱😱 That mixup on the frame was painful even from a spectator point of view. Glad you got it sorted.
I would still add pulleys and a counter weight to it just to lower the strain on the motors, and make them less likely to fail and drop. Still, can't wait to see it operational.
Ivan, minor critique... The Z belt tensioners would be better on the bottom of the belt runs so that the tensioner blocks and screws weren't the elements holding all the weight. Probably ok now that it's in, but just a thought for future consideration :)
leveling that bed will be fun. I know the duet motherboards are wonderful, and you can level with a probe, but man, seems like a bed that size will just have to be "good enough" with +/- several thousandths per foot or so. Nice build. I can't wait to see the rest of this series.
Impressive that it can lift your full weight! I wonder if itd be worth it in a system like this to have two z-axes; one to move the build plate slowly and steadily; and a second little short stroke z actuator on the hotend to do the z-hops (like a piezo with a lever system). The sheer wattage consumed (not to mention vibrations generated) if you want to aggressively z-hop a full build plate like this will be kinda disgusting :P.
What is the reason for the bed moving up and down rather than the print head? I am asking because, having XY gantry move up and down would have the moving masses stay constant, unlike getting heavier as the printer extrudes more to the moving bed like in the current configuration. Also, was decreasing the belt length by half that significant to have the motor attached to the moving bed?
I Recommend Using Thicker Gauge wires for the DC power From The PSU or at Least doubling or quadrupling the wires you're using ,It might bite you in the Long run with more steppers and load ... Personally I preferred Acme Screws on the 4 corners ,Though you gotta work with what you Got .
you should aim for largest multi-material belt 3d printer....... multi head, and pallette 3 pro, (maybe even in daisy chained mode adding more color and materials.) something big enough to make a small boat.
I have certainly made the mistake of miscalculating which ends of dimensional pieces overlap in which way (like your 30mm offset) a lot more times than I'd like to admit, so you're definitely not the only one...
That feeling when you realize you need to disassemble EVERYTHING 😅 epic build, so impressive. Let me know when you’re ready to sell them 🙌
Thanks!! we all have been there, it's just a matter of scale 😅😅
I was in the comment section when that part came up of how to add an extra 30 mm🤣.... that was pretty great, to do so I need to and then he disassembles the whole machine! I love engineering! There's always that one little part you forget that cost you hours of build time but at least you've gotten the rhythm of putting it together now!
That one hurt all the way to my soul
The wheel on the drill to turn the nutes, genius!
Amazing Project, waiting for that big benchy on lake in your next thumbnail 🔥
I can't wait to see this machine finally print! Good luck with finalizing this project :)
Impressive project Ivan! 👏😎
As always, it's so fun to see your video edits that aren't too long and don't line up, really fun
Always look forward to Ivan's upbeat build videos. I mean they're so… uplifting 😉
Elevating, even.
That last shot of you sitting on the build platform all Zen-like as it rose was epic!! There aren't too many out there tackling the challenge of building a large format printer. Only other one I know of is David Florian (Dr. D-Flo).
With that size bed, I would've recommended a rack and pinion drive mechanism rather than a belt, which is prone to stretching under load. This is of particular concern, given the dynamic nature of the load as you print.
These high quality steel belts will do just fine at that huge width. Other parts are going to bend before any damaging amount of stretch happens. I'm sure he is going to use leveling on his bed which will compensate as time goes on. Even if they do stretch over time, it's going to be a slow process over time that will not make a measurable amount of difference during even a week long print.
@@csorrows I'm not talking about stretching from one print to the hundredth print. I'm talking about during a print. Even just a small amount of stretch, in the region considered negligible by the manufacturer, can result in dimensional changes to the printed part.
@@thomasbonse
I guess your concern is valid.
But you have to think in an all difetrnt direction.
This printer is so bigg, you have to be happy if you have mm accursce.
I mean even centimeters would not be crasy noticabel in the end
@@thomasbonse On a traditional printer perhaps sub-tenth-mm matters for extrusion on a 0.6mm nozzle...this machine won't be making layers that thin, and any dynamic loading will vary proportional to the print progress, so any stretch on the belt will be proportional to one layer of print, barely changing anything. Worst worst case is the software needs calibrating that the final height be off by a few mm for a hundred kg part.
@@frollard You're assuming even loading of the platform, which is not guaranteed. This is one of the reasons why even cheap and small printers don't use belts for the Z-axis.
I always appreciate when makers show their mistakes. Also when Ivan needs to move plastic he doesn't mess around 😅.
Hey, hi, a good way to stiffen a square is to use steel cable under tension instead of the threaded rod. Its easier to install and cheaper.
Cables work but they don't add as much rigidity as thread all. Cables will also allow vibrations to transfer to the frame more readily. Thread all gives you the ability to use them like iron rods but also the convenience of adjusting the size without having to cut them. It's a more rigid design using the thread all and that's what you need in a printer. We use cables in aviation because they are lighter and they allow for Flex. Flex is the enemy of this machine
adding this reply because youtube doesn't show dislikes on comments.
@@MachineManGabb why would you dislike? Why not just correct or at least share your opinion so that if you're wrong you can be corrected. That's how we learn!
@@MachineManGabb hey hey their now their opinions are correct. Are you here to taunt them 🤔
@@imfloridano5448 a dislike should be plenty, steel wires under tension over time are rarely a good idea.
Put a green screen behind it to be a levitating meditation master😆 Awesome work man, this is beyond insane.
This drilling and tapping channel has some pretty awesome 3d printing content! 😂
Lol
I love your video's, Ivan! You *almost* inspire me to fix the auto leveling issue I have on my printer.
fixed that yet? yeah thats right. you didn't
Almost only really counts etc etc
@@redmask1356 Nope. I did say almost after all :).
@@AlexHaan SHAME, i still gotta calibrate that bed tho, so I’m not any better, SHAME ON YOU STILL
You should invest in a crimping tool and spade terminals, great video!
_Damn._ That is one heck of a demonstration at the end! I mean, with the bed already weighing in at a positively _chonky_ 15 kilos, I wasn't too concerned with it being able to support what it was printing...but _wow!_ As always, I appreciate it when experienced makers leave the mistakes and setbacks in their build videos, it inspires and reassures people who _aren't_ crazy top-tier makers to see that _everyone_ makes mistakes. 👍
Not to impressive, that thing can lift way over 1 metric ton.
@@jonasstahl9826 Impressive demonstration considering all it really _needs_ to do, is what I mean. Afterall, it's a 3D printer, not a vehicle lift. 😂
@@Bakamoichigei Thats for sure😁
I remember the days when all you had was an Ikea drill and a single screwdriver/hammer :)
Amazing how far this channel has come!
The most useful lesson from this video is: if the costs in time/materials to correct a mistake is high enough, printing out nice plans and referring to them is cheap insurance against such beautiful mistakes that take so long to correct.
I’m glad to see you’re human!
Wow, you made that whole stage without using a single spacer. Amazing!
What a flex at the end there! Love it!
YEP! This just gets better and better. That is one heck of a strength test! Nice work Ivan!
This is literally MY favorite channel. You should add some wheels to the bottom so you can move it around your shop
Surely you must now hold the world record for the biggest privately built 3D Printer!
I would bet he has an LLC. If not he really really needs to explore his options.
Dr. D-Flo has one pretty much the same size
There are others out there already
@@Aesavyx His is heated bed too. I would also bet he runs a Business or LLC too.
@@Aesavyx Never heard of Dr Flo
Great progress buddy!! It looks very good
His machines keep growing in size ... If this keeps up, in a few years he's going to DIY 3d print a shed or something.
The amount of fit and finish on this project is fantastic. The design of the brackets and cross braces really make it look good.
Amazing jobe of cable routing (and the planning it must have taken to get everything the right size and place)
New definition of crazy... And I thought I had gone too far with my CNC build Lol
This channel is so good 😁
A CNC can never be big enough, I work in a factory with three 3meter by 1.5meter cnc laser cutters and sometimes wish they were bigger
I can’t wait to see it completed.
🤣 I was like *wtf* how are you going to fit a mattress on that? 🤔
I feel so bad you had to take it apart. I was so happy at first at how easily you fit the z axis linear rails carriage on. I was wondering about that at the end of the previous video.
14:41 a good way to put balls in that track is with a pick and place with the narrow tip on. You can pick up the ball, push it in place and no balls will be harmed/lost in the process.
Amazing video as always Ivan! Just wanted to say that I would really advise you to use Fork Terminals in situations like this: 10:49
So so epic! Can't wait to see it print!
I'd love to see the process of you designing this
Incredible build, if you carry on like this you'll be making 3D houses. But, just wondering why you didn't lift the bed with threaded bar and have the heavy steppers on the static frame.
They would probably be too expensive.
The inexpensive threaded rod, like what he uses to fasten longer parts together with, can have some imperfections in the threading. Not enough to interfere with a nut too much, but maybe enough to throw off the precision Ivan wants with the bed motion.
Probably because in case something fails, the threaded bar will bind up, given that the print might weighs 100+ kg, that would be pretty difficult to fix, a beld can simply be cut.
Not to mention that 4 rotating rods are much more dangerous, that 4 beld wheels that can easily be shielded, a printer that size isnt a toy, it has enough force to lose a few fingers.
@@jonasstahl9826 Your reasoning makes a lot more sense than mine 😄
@@michiganengineer8621 Thanks
Waited with bated breath for the next video and didn’t disappoint
pretty baller lifting yourself up at the end! This channel should have 1M subs no doubt!
Absolutely amazing!!!
Loving the progress! Lots of takeaways, going to be great to see it print!
You kill me! Meaning, you're amazing!
These videos are so enjoyable. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for sharing this epic build, especially the Minor Setback and the work it took to rectify it. You're an amazing dude.
This is HUGE
This is epic. Awesome work.
Sir, after going through making the board connectors you didn't use crimp lugs or ferrules on the power wires? 😱😱😱
That mixup on the frame was painful even from a spectator point of view. Glad you got it sorted.
tip: get some ferrules for the lose wires, it will make the connections more secure over time
Man, you become genuis!!!
I would still add pulleys and a counter weight to it just to lower the strain on the motors, and make them less likely to fail and drop. Still, can't wait to see it operational.
your just too clever for one man! love your videos
This printer is perfect for when you decide to make a house sized printer!
Until a print head is installed you have an elevator? 😁 ... I can't wait to see the outcome. 😍
Fantastic work, Ivan! I'm definitely looking forward to see how it prints! 😃
Well done!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Normal Person: "This 300x300x400 printer is a good size"
Ivan: "Move aside"
This would be a time where ball screws might actually be worth it on a 3d printer. But this is amazing!
I felt your pain when having to take it all apart for a miscalculation!
MR. IVAN PEPSI! Can you make a car lift using similar method next?
That's fantastic Ivan, lots of progress!
i think you should get it tack welded a few places for optimal stiffness. this will help you in the long run for sure ! :) ...
Never has thr worlds slowest elevator looked so cool
Timing belts will flex with the added load of the print. Resulting in under-extrusion with heavy prints. As the Layer height is not predictable.
aún no he visto el vídeo pero me ha gustado
Ivan, minor critique... The Z belt tensioners would be better on the bottom of the belt runs so that the tensioner blocks and screws weren't the elements holding all the weight. Probably ok now that it's in, but just a thought for future consideration :)
Very nice work
Absolutely insane👏👏👏👏👏
Time to print some wheels for it to move around 😂
No me cansare de decirlo. Eres un fenómeno.
Gracias por tus vídeos porque son impresionantes.
Saludos crack
He proves time travel is real
Crazy cool man!
Just an amazing build!! Look forward to seeing more!
leveling that bed will be fun. I know the duet motherboards are wonderful, and you can level with a probe, but man, seems like a bed that size will just have to be "good enough" with +/- several thousandths per foot or so.
Nice build. I can't wait to see the rest of this series.
This definitely won't be machinist tolerance. With a tall first layer, you can mitigate variation.
Impressive that it can lift your full weight!
I wonder if itd be worth it in a system like this to have two z-axes; one to move the build plate slowly and steadily; and a second little short stroke z actuator on the hotend to do the z-hops (like a piezo with a lever system). The sheer wattage consumed (not to mention vibrations generated) if you want to aggressively z-hop a full build plate like this will be kinda disgusting :P.
Estoy flipando con el hecho de que has puesto un ascensor en la impresora jajajajajaja estupendo trabajo Iván!! Sigue asi!!
Does your printer even lift, bro? Yes, yes it does.
Three days later… omg. 10 points for resilient optimism.
Great job!
14:09 esa cara de felicidad contenida...
Love the ideas! I’m subscribed!! I don’t know why you don’t have a company or small business selling kits!!
do you know there are heatshrink tubing label printer - maybe a nice addition for your cableing
What is the reason for the bed moving up and down rather than the print head? I am asking because, having XY gantry move up and down would have the moving masses stay constant, unlike getting heavier as the printer extrudes more to the moving bed like in the current configuration. Also, was decreasing the belt length by half that significant to have the motor attached to the moving bed?
talented indeed~
Where could I find the link to that motor? 60Nm is a lot of torque from a stepper and that could be very useful for some projects?
Lockable trolley wheels may help, but you have already thought about that. XD
I Recommend Using Thicker Gauge wires for the DC power From The PSU or at Least doubling or quadrupling the wires you're using ,It might bite you in the Long run with more steppers and load ... Personally I preferred Acme Screws on the 4 corners ,Though you gotta work with what you Got .
I LOVE your engineering!! You are an inspiration to many 👍
Are you running klipper on a machine this size?
Super Voron !!!
This is going to be an amazing and huge 3D Printer! Great video Ivan
you should aim for largest multi-material belt 3d printer....... multi head, and pallette 3 pro, (maybe even in daisy chained mode adding more color and materials.) something big enough to make a small boat.
Hi Ivan, why not use long screws and move the motors to the base?
Won’t the weight of the print increase the sag and in doing so increase the z height per layer?
When will the kit be ready to purchase?
Thank you Ivan you are so adorable. Rojo loco por la vida.
Can we buy plans from you for this printer? Like general dimensions and a parts list?
What kind of glass do you use for the printer bed, wanting to build my own 3D printer.
Awsome as always!!! What are you going to do if Joseph Prusa offers a job?
Will you ever make your 3D printer cr30 like?
Amazing machine...😱😱
I have certainly made the mistake of miscalculating which ends of dimensional pieces overlap in which way (like your 30mm offset) a lot more times than I'd like to admit, so you're definitely not the only one...
Amazing!!!