@@ionstorm66 I want the same answer. I thought about getting a quote to see if it is worth it or not. However, if they do not exist already off the shelf, the cost could be worth it. Hopefully it is low enough to not regret the purchase after the fact. Inevitably this size of printer is going to become commonplace in the next few years and the parts will be readily available. I have been collecting parts for a couple years and plan on making one at least this size. I just need the space.
Here’s the CoreXY explainer comment! The primary goal, as Ivan said, is to reduce the moving weight of the system. By keeping the motors stationary, you accomplish this. Unfortunately, it becomes difficult to isolate the movement of the motors into the two separate X and Y axes, so they end up getting combined like he demonstrated. Previously, in industrial machinery with very stiff gantries, you could accomplish this with a kinematic system called an H-bot (called this because the belt forms an H shape), which was very simple and didn’t involve any belt crossing. It does however, REQUIRE the gantry to be very stiff, as X direction moves applied force to only one side of the gantry, exerting a twisting force on it. With the advent of 3D printers, pretty much the first consumer-tier high speed cartesian robots, a new system was needed, in order to not require a super stiff (and therefore heavy and expensive) gantry. CoreXY had been used throughout history, most notably in computerized drafting tables, but didn’t see it’s big moment until people realized it’s perfect for fast (or in this case very large) 3D printers. As for how each system actually works: here’s a quick explainer: - H-bot kinematics use one very long belt, which wraps around each motor with both ends at the carriage. This means that there is only one way to pull the carriage in each direction. Since each end comes from a different side of the gantry, those same forces are applied to only one side of the gantry, causing it to twist. - CoreXY kinematics essentially just double up the H-bot design, adding a second belt, running in the opposite direction to the first (with one motor per belt) so that each carriage move produces two equal and opposite forces on the gantry, cancelling out the twisting forces.
I built a CoreXY, well, I modded my weird XY bedflinger to be a CoreXY bedflinger, and there is always a tradeoff. In the case of the CoreXY, you trade the mass on one axis for much longer belts that are a bit more prone to ringing. And you still have one axis with a greater mass than the other. A crossed gantry design (sometimes called "quadrap") has shorter belts and both axes have the same mass, but it requires more hardware to prevent racking.
@@TDOBrandano yeah, honestly on something this big I’d probably do rack and pinion or a stationary belt drive just for precisions sake. Most of the time spent printing is gonna be long straight lines, so the lower accelerations needed for a heavier gantry wouldn’t have as much of an impact on print time.
For folks building their own printer: When tensioning the belts on coreXY, you need to keep the Y-gantry square with the frame. The easiest way to do that is to move it to one end of the printer and tie it down there temporarily while you tension the belts. When you pull on one belt, it will want to move the gantry out of square, and this is normally held in check by the tension from the other belt. This is why both belts need to have the same tension, and why you need the gantry held square while the belt tensions are uneven while being adjusted.
Aw man I love this kind of engineering, everything is so modular and well planned/fitting. Bolts everywhere, no destructive connection. It's like a giant toy lol
foam filling will reduce noise or stick some rubber sheet in different locations to stop reverberations and hollow tubes that are magnifying the sound. awesome built Ivan. Well done
Bravo, excellent design, Ivan. All of those long-length belts and frame stability are a big challenge. I can't wait to see the printing quality of this machine. Keep going
your videos are truely inspirational, youve given me the belief I can make things myself, I am currently making a 3D printed CNC router that can cut a full sheet of plywood. I am 1 week of continual printing into printing out the parts. hopefully in the near future I will say I have made something!!!!!
Seriously amazing. It seems straight forward but CoreXY is still a mystery to me. Hey, thanks for the constant encouragement at the end of your videos. I'm finally back working on one of my project while watching this.
Ivan, thank you for your video series. In industrial robotics what you have made is called an H-bot. They are perfect for this type of application where the Z height of the end effector (print nozzle in this case) remains constant. The sound you are is a byproduct of the resonant frequency of the components connected to the source (motors). Adding mass or dampeners at the right locations will reduce the amplitude of the transmitted sound. This could be a block of rubber next to the motors inside the hollow aluminum tube or filling the tubes with sand or other material.
In the lingo of 3d printers, an h-bot is different from core xy. An h-bot uses a simpler belt routing, but has the disadvantage of causing torque on the moving axis.
super awesome work Ivan! congrats on the first try success! :P i think a large part of the sound and belt vibrations are coming from the belt teeth running over smooth idlers(/bearings). i'm pretty sure you can buy appropriate idlers and it not get PCBway to hook you up. the pallet of polymaker filament is pretty sweet, but maybe ask them for pellets and a pellet extruder. alternatively, a multi-input hotend like the diamond, modded with multiple heat zones and drilled out to 1mm+ will let you push lots of filament and multiple spools at the same time.
I was going to make the same comment about the smooth idlers, I'm also interested IF they'll leave any noticeable printing artifacts Regardless this build is badass and i can't wait to see it print :)
I love it, It's a new type of musical instrument right? The 3d printed corners and most parts are hollow PLA Chambers that amplify the resonance of the steppers. IMHO -Silent drivers? - add dampening material in the corners and bars. Add weights to the frame that can be placed in various spots to reduce the resonance noise across the beams. Turnbuckles would work really well as a replacement to the current bracing system allowing you to use a synthetic fiber (NON-stretch) to decouple vibrations, allowing for increased tension to tune out vibrations. I have also had great success at reducing Motor noise by strapping large heatsinks or weights (non-Ferris) to the side of a stepper to reduce vibrations in stationary motors. Nice Project cannot wait to see this print or at least play a nice tune.
Very nice looking printer. If you are looking to make it even more insane, you could upgrade to a CoreXY AWD by adding 2 more steppers at the idlers. It would give you greater stiffness in the belts thanks to shorter paths between motors and gantry as well as more acceleration. If you want to lighten up your X axis, machining pockets in the aluminium extrusion is a known way to do it as long as you don't remove too much metal. Or straight up use a square carbon fiber extrusion. That way you lower the moving mass. The frame itself already seems very stiff, using steel instead of aluminium could improve that. Since it is immobile, that added mass is no big problem and will help damp gantry induced vibrations. Sand filling could also work. Don't know what kind of hotend you plan to use (maybe even a custom one?), but with this size it better be a very high flow one to take advantage of such a large print volume.
Very cool to see it work first try :D I just finally finished building your desktop cnc, was so thrilled when I got everything working and moving around, such a great feeling :D
Nice setup. One trick to confirm that there's equal tension (without a belt tension tester) on the belts is to pluck them and hear the sound on an equal distanced area like across the back of the back of the printer. then you can use a guitar tuner or by ear and hear if they have similar tone.
So, here's a tip for making it much quieter. This worked for my coreXY, but it's only 300x300. The belts, if you twist them once, 180deg, between the motor and the fixed corner, then the smooth side of the belt will run along the pulleys in all the corners.
So if we consider the corner pieces at 3:50, scale them up so they fill the whole bed of this printer then the next printer that uses those parts will be the size of a two storey building. Now that could print a tank...
Hey Ivan, please check out vzbot AWD for example adding 2 more motors on top :) shorter paths realy would help this build ! the shorter the paths the less problem with torque cause of the heavy belts adding 2 more motors on the top would realy make a big difference a specialy for a printer this size :)
One source of the noise are the teeth of the belts running over ball bearings instead of fitting pulleys. The xy System should then be significantly quieter
Love the sci-fi spaceship sounds from the motors running, though if you find it gets annoying maybe switching to idlers with teeth on them might be quieter than the belt teeth running over the smooth idlers?
I built a core xy printer (Voron 2.4) and not sure how you ran the belts but you should be able to to run the smooth side on the bearings. You may want to look up their design to see how it was done.
Don't miss what's coming: he will use this 3D printer to make a larger 3D printer. ;-) I am not someone who easily creates 3D models on a computer, so I always thought that making parts out of wood was much faster for me. But when you factor in fine details, sanding, finishing, different tools for specialist things and that you still need to design the thing you're making parts for and the actual parts, I am starting to be convinced that 3D printing is pretty cool and worthwhile to learn/do.
Now, that you reduced the mass of the gantry with holes, it will move so lightning-fast that it will heat up due to air friction! You have to add more holes for ventilation! Or spacers to keep the air at distance ...😀
Love your design! can't wait to see it fully functional. Thought; Have you given any thought to some additional cooling on the stepper motors? Maybe some additional cooling would help insure they don't get to hot and burn up...? not sure it'll help with the noise, but may be something to look into? Great job, keep the content coming!
I think the teeth of the belts moving around the idler bearings at the corners is contributing to the extra noise. Should those be toothed gears at those corners for the belt teeth to ride on?
I don't see another comment saying it yet so: you should probably get pulleys printed for the idlers too. Crushing belt teeth into bearings drastically increases wear on them. It's only 4(or 6 depending on layout) anyway.
You could machine/grind a slot along the length of the rail from the bottom flange base up the web to reduce the mass - lol -. You could also drill holes up from the bottom flange to make it lighter.
Great machine....:) Sounds like bigger idler bearings will reduce the noise a lot. I can hear the belt teeth impacting on the skate board bearings. Put a couple of bearings on a shaft in the vice and run a loop of belt by hand to test if I am right.
It's beautiful! Obviously it won't print at those speeds but now I want to see someone try to make a reinforced VORON this size. That'd be hilariously dangerous.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
![Noob To Max With DRAGON REWORK In Blox Fruits [FULL MOVIE]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/LnBMOinoOvA/mqdefault.jpg)
First print will be a corner piece to an even larger printer. 😁
Deal! 👊
@@ivanmirandawastaken I sure hope it will max out the print area!
@@ivanmirandawastaken Make a printer that's mounted on the walls of the room you're in, also using COREXY. :)
Perhaps with 'belt & pinion' - would be cool to see, and less problems with tension/stretching.
Hey Sean, caught you there 😊
Our pleasure to help you fab these parts out and most importantly, nice content as always, Ivan 👍
Cheers!
@@ivanmirandawastaken What is the cost of those pulleys in aluminum though?
@@ionstorm66 I want the same answer. I thought about getting a quote to see if it is worth it or not. However, if they do not exist already off the shelf, the cost could be worth it. Hopefully it is low enough to not regret the purchase after the fact. Inevitably this size of printer is going to become commonplace in the next few years and the parts will be readily available. I have been collecting parts for a couple years and plan on making one at least this size. I just need the space.
$1000
@@jesuslovesyou5819 that would be too much, for sure. I hope it's not that high.
Here’s the CoreXY explainer comment!
The primary goal, as Ivan said, is to reduce the moving weight of the system. By keeping the motors stationary, you accomplish this. Unfortunately, it becomes difficult to isolate the movement of the motors into the two separate X and Y axes, so they end up getting combined like he demonstrated.
Previously, in industrial machinery with very stiff gantries, you could accomplish this with a kinematic system called an H-bot (called this because the belt forms an H shape), which was very simple and didn’t involve any belt crossing. It does however, REQUIRE the gantry to be very stiff, as X direction moves applied force to only one side of the gantry, exerting a twisting force on it.
With the advent of 3D printers, pretty much the first consumer-tier high speed cartesian robots, a new system was needed, in order to not require a super stiff (and therefore heavy and expensive) gantry. CoreXY had been used throughout history, most notably in computerized drafting tables, but didn’t see it’s big moment until people realized it’s perfect for fast (or in this case very large) 3D printers.
As for how each system actually works: here’s a quick explainer:
- H-bot kinematics use one very long belt, which wraps around each motor with both ends at the carriage. This means that there is only one way to pull the carriage in each direction. Since each end comes from a different side of the gantry, those same forces are applied to only one side of the gantry, causing it to twist.
- CoreXY kinematics essentially just double up the H-bot design, adding a second belt, running in the opposite direction to the first (with one motor per belt) so that each carriage move produces two equal and opposite forces on the gantry, cancelling out the twisting forces.
Told'ya
@@ivanmirandawastaken Just doing my job ;)
I built a CoreXY, well, I modded my weird XY bedflinger to be a CoreXY bedflinger, and there is always a tradeoff. In the case of the CoreXY, you trade the mass on one axis for much longer belts that are a bit more prone to ringing. And you still have one axis with a greater mass than the other. A crossed gantry design (sometimes called "quadrap") has shorter belts and both axes have the same mass, but it requires more hardware to prevent racking.
For extreme large machines like this a cross xy gantry would work better. Way shorter belt so less resonance on it.
@@TDOBrandano yeah, honestly on something this big I’d probably do rack and pinion or a stationary belt drive just for precisions sake. Most of the time spent printing is gonna be long straight lines, so the lower accelerations needed for a heavier gantry wouldn’t have as much of an impact on print time.
I'm pretty sure that Polymaker has a dedicated factory just for the red filament.
just for Ivan
maybe not before, but now they need to xD
They have a factory dedicated only for Ivan
I count 33 boxes, how many kg is that.
@@SidneyCritic 165?
For folks building their own printer: When tensioning the belts on coreXY, you need to keep the Y-gantry square with the frame. The easiest way to do that is to move it to one end of the printer and tie it down there temporarily while you tension the belts. When you pull on one belt, it will want to move the gantry out of square, and this is normally held in check by the tension from the other belt. This is why both belts need to have the same tension, and why you need the gantry held square while the belt tensions are uneven while being adjusted.
Aw man I love this kind of engineering, everything is so modular and well planned/fitting. Bolts everywhere, no destructive connection. It's like a giant toy lol
Fill the stationary frame with sand to reduced the amplified noise of the steppers and reduce vibration.
Well... It's sounding like a spaceship... I don't know if changing it would be a good idea... 🤔
There have been tests, other then being a danger to the mechanics, filling spaces so comparatively small with sand does not help.
That is a great way to do nothing and get sand everywhere and destroy your mechanism
Better to use PU foam to absorb resonance and ringing of frame tubes.
Could some of the vibration be from the toothed belt going over small round idlers? Or is it all motor switching noise?
foam filling will reduce noise or stick some rubber sheet in different locations to stop reverberations and hollow tubes that are magnifying the sound. awesome built Ivan. Well done
00:34 Fantastic explanation. You made it simple to understand the Core-XY system of movement.
Definitely one of my favorite video in a while. I really enjoy when you talk about the process along the way
My pleasure!
Bravo, excellent design, Ivan. All of those long-length belts and frame stability are a big challenge.
I can't wait to see the printing quality of this machine.
Keep going
your videos are truely inspirational, youve given me the belief I can make things myself, I am currently making a 3D printed CNC router that can cut a full sheet of plywood. I am 1 week of continual printing into printing out the parts. hopefully in the near future I will say I have made something!!!!!
I am making a cnc too. Good luck mate!
Seriously amazing. It seems straight forward but CoreXY is still a mystery to me.
Hey, thanks for the constant encouragement at the end of your videos. I'm finally back working on one of my project while watching this.
La verdad es que estoy flipando con los proyectos que haces Ivan. Y esta impresora tiene una pinta alucinante. Impaciente por ver el siguiente vídeo.
Más vídeos!
Ivan, thank you for your video series. In industrial robotics what you have made is called an H-bot. They are perfect for this type of application where the Z height of the end effector (print nozzle in this case) remains constant. The sound you are is a byproduct of the resonant frequency of the components connected to the source (motors). Adding mass or dampeners at the right locations will reduce the amplitude of the transmitted sound. This could be a block of rubber next to the motors inside the hollow aluminum tube or filling the tubes with sand or other material.
In the lingo of 3d printers, an h-bot is different from core xy. An h-bot uses a simpler belt routing, but has the disadvantage of causing torque on the moving axis.
super awesome work Ivan! congrats on the first try success! :P
i think a large part of the sound and belt vibrations are coming from the belt teeth running over smooth idlers(/bearings). i'm pretty sure you can buy appropriate idlers and it not get PCBway to hook you up.
the pallet of polymaker filament is pretty sweet, but maybe ask them for pellets and a pellet extruder.
alternatively, a multi-input hotend like the diamond, modded with multiple heat zones and drilled out to 1mm+ will let you push lots of filament and multiple spools at the same time.
You can also turn over the belt so it rolls on the flat side. It just take some clever additional pullies to engage with the motor-pulley
@@bee2hive or he could just use toothet idlers...
I was going to make the same comment about the smooth idlers, I'm also interested IF they'll leave any noticeable printing artifacts
Regardless this build is badass and i can't wait to see it print :)
Your work here in Brazil is very good, I'm inspired by your project and making one half the size of yours, thanks for giving us great ideas!
@7:41
That is some REALLY satisfying cable management.
I love it, It's a new type of musical instrument right? The 3d printed corners and most parts are hollow PLA Chambers that amplify the resonance of the steppers. IMHO -Silent drivers? - add dampening material in the corners and bars. Add weights to the frame that can be placed in various spots to reduce the resonance noise across the beams. Turnbuckles would work really well as a replacement to the current bracing system allowing you to use a synthetic fiber (NON-stretch) to decouple vibrations, allowing for increased tension to tune out vibrations. I have also had great success at reducing Motor noise by strapping large heatsinks or weights (non-Ferris) to the side of a stepper to reduce vibrations in stationary motors. Nice Project cannot wait to see this print or at least play a nice tune.
Your wire management is really nice. I wish I had the patience to do that.
on a printer this large, you have to manage the wires or you'll run into problems at one time.
The captions are great - apparently when the gantry moves, it's "foreign music" and "applause". Excellent video as usual!
9:23 that winner smile 👍 well deserved, great job!
change the idles with puly's so the ribs of the belt doesnt slide over the idlers -> makes it more silence and less vibrations.
Ivan, very cool videos from the very beginning I have been following all your projects.
WOW....this thing gets better and better!
Love the last shot with the camera on the gantry 😁 this project is amazing!
I enjoy that you explained the model you were printing even though you weren't printing
Loved the corexy video pov at the end was awesome.
Awesome!! I cant wait to see it printing and all the crazy project you will do with it!! 😀👍
Very nice looking printer. If you are looking to make it even more insane, you could upgrade to a CoreXY AWD by adding 2 more steppers at the idlers. It would give you greater stiffness in the belts thanks to shorter paths between motors and gantry as well as more acceleration. If you want to lighten up your X axis, machining pockets in the aluminium extrusion is a known way to do it as long as you don't remove too much metal. Or straight up use a square carbon fiber extrusion. That way you lower the moving mass. The frame itself already seems very stiff, using steel instead of aluminium could improve that. Since it is immobile, that added mass is no big problem and will help damp gantry induced vibrations. Sand filling could also work. Don't know what kind of hotend you plan to use (maybe even a custom one?), but with this size it better be a very high flow one to take advantage of such a large print volume.
Something about the sound of that machine is so satisfying!😂👍🏻
Each video makes me more proud of being one of your subs. Thanks for leting me know you with these videos!
Keep up the amazing and inspiring work!!
Very clean build 👌 i like your wire management. Awesome progress. Cant wait to see the rest. Good job
Great build. The design and implementation is very impressive. Thank you!
Very cool to see it work first try :D I just finally finished building your desktop cnc, was so thrilled when I got everything working and moving around, such a great feeling :D
Yes!! WELL DONE!
Extremely impressive work as always, Ivan! This thing is turning into a seriously solid fabrication rig. Super excited to see what’s next. :)
Bella barked at 10:55 - you might be onto something in the dog calling market lol
lol, the pup can recognise a good machine juat by the sound of it.
That's a thing of beauty!
Nice setup. One trick to confirm that there's equal tension (without a belt tension tester) on the belts is to pluck them and hear the sound on an equal distanced area like across the back of the back of the printer. then you can use a guitar tuner or by ear and hear if they have similar tone.
Your cable routing is legendary
Smart choice Ivan! It sounds haunted.... How appropriate! XD
So, here's a tip for making it much quieter. This worked for my coreXY, but it's only 300x300. The belts, if you twist them once, 180deg, between the motor and the fixed corner, then the smooth side of the belt will run along the pulleys in all the corners.
I can feel the thrill just by watching the machine moving!!
You're a good sport Ivan. I hope this printer makes your dreams come true!
Why can't I like this video more than once!!!
Nghe Phúc hát mà nước mắt rơi mãi ....quá nhiều cảm xúc ùa về, quá nhiều kỉ niệm. Cảm ơn Đức Phúc thật nhiều, giọng hát anh ấm tựa nắng mùa Thu vậy.
Absolutely brilliant work👏👏
Impresionante Iván.
Gracias por todo
Saludos
Ivan it isn't caving! It is simply the "right way" :) Keep on going man!
11:00 that sounds awesome. It sounds like the alarm systems from Star Wars 😁
Awesome! Your enthusiasm and creativity have inspired me. This is an amazing project, like many of your others, and I can't wait to see how it goes!
I love polymaker filament
So if we consider the corner pieces at 3:50, scale them up so they fill the whole bed of this printer then the next printer that uses those parts will be the size of a two storey building. Now that could print a tank...
yeah a print-in-place tank 😁
Even the noise is nice 😅. Great job. I'm excited to see the first printing.
Hey Ivan, please check out vzbot AWD for example adding 2 more motors on top :) shorter paths realy would help this build !
the shorter the paths the less problem with torque cause of the heavy belts adding 2 more motors on the top would realy make a big difference a specialy for a printer this size :)
At that point, crossed gantry would probably be more worth it imo- significantly shorter belt paths and a lot more rigidity
You are a madman. Brilliant!!
Haha love the last shot where you mounted the camera on the gantry!
you made my day man thanks!
The BBC should license the sounds from testing arount 11:25. Sounds like the kind of stuff you'd hear on Dr. Who.
You're absolutely inspiring man!
❤‼️😃 Great! And fun!
Great content and SUCH great editing! 🥰
It'd want to be the right colour! It just wouldn't be Ivan without that red!
One source of the noise are the teeth of the belts running over ball bearings instead of fitting pulleys. The xy System should then be significantly quieter
Absolutely outstanding! I love your projects!
I always feel so bad for you when you have to do a redesign...it was also so awesome the gantry moved correctly first time
When is the next part? These shorter videos are killing me :) Ivan is the best.
Great editing!
Literally how an etch-a-sketch works 😂 funny how this technology can be used from industrial applications to a kids toy!
Sounds like an ambulance at slower speeds ahaha.
Great work!
admirable effrots. thanks for sharing.
Awesome work!
I love your designs. Clean and simple. 👌
I'm not a CoreXY fan btw. This belt is long enough to make problems.
polymaker!!!! yeaaa
That's just brilliant, Ivan! Fantastic work! 😃
Looking forward to the next step!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Love the sci-fi spaceship sounds from the motors running, though if you find it gets annoying maybe switching to idlers with teeth on them might be quieter than the belt teeth running over the smooth idlers?
Gotta love some core XY
Tap drill for M4 is 3.3mm with Aluminium you can also go lower to 3.2mm, if you want holding quality threads.
Haha - @10:50 truly the F1-E of 3d printers :)
Super cool channel! :) I'm following this build only but wow, 10/10.
I built a core xy printer (Voron 2.4) and not sure how you ran the belts but you should be able to to run the smooth side on the bearings. You may want to look up their design to see how it was done.
toothed bearing, rather than a smooth one.
@@jase171973 also :) Would help
Ivan you're the dam boss 👊
Don't miss what's coming: he will use this 3D printer to make a larger 3D printer. ;-)
I am not someone who easily creates 3D models on a computer, so I always thought that making parts out of wood was much faster for me. But when you factor in fine details, sanding, finishing, different tools for specialist things and that you still need to design the thing you're making parts for and the actual parts, I am starting to be convinced that 3D printing is pretty cool and worthwhile to learn/do.
3d printer and whale call. Brilliant. 🎉
@Araye : I knew I recognised that sound! 👍 😀
Now, that you reduced the mass of the gantry with holes, it will move so lightning-fast that it will heat up due to air friction! You have to add more holes for ventilation! Or spacers to keep the air at distance ...😀
Love your design! can't wait to see it fully functional.
Thought; Have you given any thought to some additional cooling on the stepper motors? Maybe some additional cooling would help insure they don't get to hot and burn up...? not sure it'll help with the noise, but may be something to look into?
Great job, keep the content coming!
The noise of the motors in Vase mode reminded me Doom 93 doors opening. Nice project ;-)
Sorted, can't to see your first print👍
I think the teeth of the belts moving around the idler bearings at the corners is contributing to the extra noise. Should those be toothed gears at those corners for the belt teeth to ride on?
I don't see another comment saying it yet so:
you should probably get pulleys printed for the idlers too. Crushing belt teeth into bearings drastically increases wear on them. It's only 4(or 6 depending on layout) anyway.
i tried the polymaker pteg recently and was extremely satisfied
This is quite amazing
You could machine/grind a slot along the length of the rail from the bottom flange base up the web to reduce the mass - lol -.
You could also drill holes up from the bottom flange to make it lighter.
Sir, you have brass ones to stand THAT close to tensioned, untested belts at that speed lol. Looks amazing! Can't wait too see the hotend choice!
Great machine....:)
Sounds like bigger idler bearings will reduce the noise a lot. I can hear the belt teeth impacting on the skate board bearings. Put a couple of bearings on a shaft in the vice and run a loop of belt by hand to test if I am right.
It's beautiful! Obviously it won't print at those speeds but now I want to see someone try to make a reinforced VORON this size. That'd be hilariously dangerous.
This just got epic!
You need to use teethed idlers for the belts at the back that touch the belt teeth.
9:05 like a voron you should make the two belts the same size.
Always amazing! Keep up the great work!
Reminds me of the 1m^3 Hevort I designed and built last year. Nice work.