One small correction: In the initial Bill of Material I forgot to add 2xLM8UUs for the Z-Axis. I've updated the BOM and it should now contain everything you need to build that printer. Sorry for that.
Hi Matt I immediately subscribed after this video! i must agree with selinium shutter on this, auto level is a must nowadays.. also a not so fast version with a 400x400 bed size option would be a good one (if i may be so Bold ) If you could offer hardware packs even with a surcharge I wil immediately buy one .. I also became a patreon to support you in your efforts !
Literally? Like your brain escaped your cranial superstructure? Yeah, dramatic speech is fine sometimes. This is something that needs to be learned and incorporated. Theatrical hysterics are for the woke. Normal humans see innovation and improve upon it. It is an excellent step for time management to be sure.
@@jasonshrout8921you are literally too much, chill, my buddy. How many rhetoric techniques were in that statement? Guess you have to be AWAKE to figure that out 🤭
I would love to see three versions of the BOM; First version as cheap as possible; cheap motors, amazon bought hotend and extruder etc. Somewhere to start, I guess. Second version, the one that's there right now; cheap but still quality with good parts to support high speeds. And a high end version; going all out on all the parts. Highest end versions of all/most needed parts to get the absolute best quality and highest speeds.
@@YourLocalRaccoon you can't really do that with printed frames, printed frames are stiff enough for small build areas but when you get bigger frames may get wonky. Maybe with some metal/carbon reinforcement you could, but at that point you might as well have an all aluminium frame. the 100 with an alu frame would be cool though
@@cozmo4694 could have an insert sleeve for 3/4" conduit, would get good stiffness but nowhere near the cost, especially if the pieces need to be printed in 3 pieces or more
@@cozmo4694 If I understand the video corectly, printing the frame is the main point of the design, as the plastic reduces resonances. Input shaping compensate for resonances /vibration. But it can not totaly eliminate them totaly. So with the printed frame, you reduce vibration from the beginning. Combined with input shaping, you can do insane accelerations. Using aluminium instead would be contraproductive. The other way you could reduce vibreation is making the printer heavy. Very heavy, like making steel armored concrete walls and mount the 3d printed frame on them. Actually you could also print the cast to put concrete into... Anyway, with size increasi8ng, also the rods gain weight. If the moving mass increase, the acceleration you can do goes down.
im in the processes of designing a custom printer myself to convert an old cheep bed slinger that was slow and unreliable into a fast core XY dual material machine. Videos like this one have helped me get ideas for my design. I will be using the linear rods at the front and printed frame at the back in my design.
We need the 80/20 principle used on this one. Make parts easier and lighter. As you said wobbling is a part. Check out Wich parts can be spared ( maybe only one fan for Part cooling or even one for Part cooling and heatend cooling). Make it cheaper while maintaining 80% of it's speed. And port these and future findings into the 100 extended. You are doing groundbreaking work here. ❤
I would be VERY interested in an even faster printer for 500 EUR! That would be awesome!! Total krass was Du da machst, und vielen Dank dass du deine Entwicklung teilst!!
in my opinion only 2 things are important: 1: Position of the toolhead above the printbed. In my opinion it doesn't matter if the whole thing is wobbling, if the location of the head is solid and consistent relative to the bed you can put it on a working washing machine on in a car on a bumpy road. 2: Part cooling is only important AFTER the filament leaves the nozzle. Even if the airflow is focused 9mm next to the nozzle it doesn't matter, even at 150mm/s speed that's 0.06s without proper cooling. Good cooling all around might be better (vortex of 4 cooling exhausts?)
That's only true if you see the whole system in a static state, but not as a dynamic system. There are moments where the toolhead moves with 4-5g and since the gcode is something that is mathematically not predictable it might happen that the moving of the toolhead create a wave that adds up to the moving energy the toolhead creates at the next move, those additions ruin your printing quality. So it's more important to transform that energy stored inside the frame so that the addition goes near the energy of the moving toolhead. As for the part cooling, at high speed you want to have higher air pressure it has a way higher impact on the cooling performance than the airflow itself
@MattThePrintingNerd You made a Sweet printer!!! Congratulations on your work! Having both high and low end models available is what a lot of businesses do.
Awesome design this may end up being the first diy printer I build. One thing I’ve seen a lot in the comments is demand for a larger build volume and I’m right there with them.
Yeah I know and to be honest there are many good 3d printers out there like the vzBots, the vorons, the ratrigs.. so there are a lot of options out there to choose from for me 165mm x165mm is the perfect sweetspot for over 80% of all prints that I do.
Very nice little monster !! Congrats man. World fastest though ? There are many faster printers out there already :) but this might be the cheapest one to build so its very cool
@@twanheijkoop6753still nope. Title should’ve been “fastest cheap 3d printer”. 24/7 printing has achieved 1000mm/s with a voron v0 which is also a 3d printed printer.
No you all got that wrong, it's the worlds fastest 3D printer basing on a 3D printed frame. That's the title he's been using lately. But for clicks things may change 😅
Most corexy printers running klipper can achieve these speeds and quality it’s just a matter of tuning your machine. Non the less it’s Always great to see another open source printer available to the community.
I would be really interested in seeing a version with some added quality of life improvements such as bed probing with UBL and perhaps support for a higher quality, flatter print bed! This looks so great and I can't wait to paint that frame when I build my own!
Ubl is easy to add, designing a mount for a bltouch is like a 10 minute job and then like... The work in marlin or whatever you decide to run the printer on isn't too hard...it's mostly just uncommenting the stuff you want to activate.
@@NeoIsrafilspeaking of that, how do you activate such features in marlin ? Do you Need to recompile the firmware ? Do you have some video about that ? Thanks in advance.
I'm so glad I found your video. I was thinking about buying one of those new expensive fast printers some Grass Lab company sells. But part of what I enjoy about this hobby is fiddling around with the printer itself. This looks like exactly what I want.
Very excited to recycle an old monoprice plus into this machine! I have been very excited to see where this project would go, and it has exceeded my expectations.. Would love to see a higher speed version that cost more, as long as this version doesn't get abandoned. The different options will make it easier to recycle old machines!
It looks like an incredible project! I wonder if you could provide a bill of materials for this printer with fewer Chinese parts, aiming for a design more akin to the Prusa concept. Keep up the great work!
Input shaping is pretty awesome. I love the way it works... it's got a biological feel to it, like muscle memory or neuron hysterisis. I got over the speed bug pretty fast after I built my Voron, it was fun for a while but ultimately useful only for bragging rights. Those five minute benchys are hard on components. I have to admit my first reaction to a PLA frame is a gag reflex, but the proof is in the pudding. Can't argue with results. Nice work.
I’d love to see a bigger version of this with a bed closer to 220mm X 220mm that allows for printing medium sized parts. This is super impressive and I myself might build one of these at some point.
sick build, I like your style of considering the reality of vibrations and adjusting for it, rather than tune the machine itself to perfection. it was the same for bed leveling back in the day. people would fiddle with screws and tinker for the perfect bed height, over and over, only when software assumed and adjusted for the uneven bed either by using paper calibration or sensors did 3D print reliability take a massive jump forward.
cut the time from 50 mm/s regular 3d printer to high speed 500 mm/s is worth a lot. I hope this platform become new standard in 3d print industry... also looking foward to print size 250x250x100 mm or 350x350x100 wanna know if aspect ration (proportion) would affect the vibration...
Its hard to tell, but does your printer use any sort of counterweight on the moving axes? If not, that might be worth looking into to ensure an equal and opposite force is always present to counteract the backlash generated from the fast movement of the print head. I've seen a few printers basically mount a dummy print head thats the same mass on the opposide side of the drive belt, seriously reducing vibrations and shake while operating. Another more weird example of this, is Stuff Made Here's wall painting robot: he had a lot of trouble keeping the painting carriage from swinging as it was built with large cables, so to solve the problem he added a counterweight to balance the forces out. Seeing the same principle work wonders on a machine that has practically 0 rigidity compared to the average 3d printer really hammered home how useful a counterweight can be.
This is the beauty of 3d printing world, the next turn to the corner comes with new great ideas to improve and make it wonderfull. A next step into startrek replicator.
Is that my Gridfinity AA battery holder I see at 0:58? Really cool to see it in a random video that popped up in my RUclips recommended! Awesome printer design! I'm thinking about building my own now. Thanks for releasing it.
Great work. Looks like you could add some more cooling, flow, as the front window overhang is sagging, and it looks like some deformation near the top of the print.
This is amazing. Absolutely fantastic work. Here are my random thoughts. 1) I know we all love 3D printing, but the plastic frame could be injection molded at volume for lower costs. 2) I wonder if something like the Frore AirJet would be a superior nozzle cooling option (120 mph airspeed with a very thin exhaust) 3) I like the high flow hot end as I prefer a 1.0mm nozzle for functional parts (1mm width and 0.25mm layer height for 4:1 ratio for strength)
Good work, very organic way of handling vibration. Id love to see future versions that have a larger print surface and are printable within that surface. When that happens what it allows is someone can print themselves more of these, or their friends, or pay it forward, etc. as it is it looks like itd take another printer to make these, so the ecosystem doesnt self construct. Thats what made a lot of the early printers take off, they were self replicating.
This is truly amazing work! Thank you for pushing the boundaries of this craft. Although I have a question, what materials can be used on this printer? The worry in my mind is that the PLA frame would prevent enclosure required materials.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation: 00:27 🖨️ Version 1.1 of the P100 3D printer, known as THE 100, offers improved speed, better part cooling, and reduced vibration for higher print quality. 01:42 🛠️ The printer's frame swings freely to absorb energy from the moving tool head, and input shaper compensates for vibrations, resulting in smooth prints. 02:25 🏗️ Version 1.1 eliminates two rods in the printer's design, improving vibration profiles and reducing costs. 03:23 🪶 The redesigned tool head optimizes airflow around the nozzle, enhancing part cooling by over 100% compared to the original design. 05:00 💨 While the CHC Pro hot end is recommended, the printer now supports the Rapido hot end for even faster printing speeds with increased flow rates. 06:22 🧹 Cable management, motor mounting, and maintenance processes have been streamlined for easier construction and upkeep. 09:06 📚 Comprehensive guides and a growing community on Discord provide valuable support for builders of THE 100 3D printer. 10:16 💰 Donations and Patreon support are essential for financing further developments, including creating a kit-based version and aiming for a world record in 3D printing speed. Made with HARPA AI
Do you think it's possible to create this but bigger for bigger prints? Or do you think it would throw everything off? I want to try and build one with a bigger print bed.
Super excited to build my own 100, I definitely think that im going to modify it a bit and utilize as many left over parts as a i can from my enderwire, zero G and voron 0.1 builds. This looks like an awesome fun project. As a personal challenge i think im going to speed build and see if i can do the whole build start to benchy in one day
This looks amazing, excellent work! id love to build something like this but id want to make a bigger verion. Would it be an easy process to scale it up 50 to 100%?
You could scale it up, but acceleration does not scale linear, so it would be a bit slower. We already have a couple ppl in discord working on a 235x235 mod
Back in the day (and i'm sure they do it today as well for very niche applications) when grinding parts for example with ridiculously tight tolerances and when measuring these types of parts they would be in a room suspended by cables so it would be isolated from different factors like vibrations (i suspect) and such my cuestion is would something similar work in this instace? would the frame behave differently if it was on some type of platform suspended in each corner?
its amazing how fast your printer goes. i wonder though if the accelerated speed would also accelerate the wear and tear of its parts. for example, if a regular printer would print 100 parts vs your printer, would the status of its parts be the same?
Yeah printing faster will always, wear down moving parts faster. I printed about 800 hours on my v1.0 on the first drylins and they are fine right now, but I notice a tiny bit of play, so if I would be a normal THE 100 owner I would plan to change them, but for science I keep them in the printer and learn how the wear impacts printing quality.
@@MattThePrintingNerd that's an unfortunate side effect, but it that will definitely not stop people as dedicated as you from pushing forward. i do hope continuous success for you and can't wait to see how far you can take this. seriously, its like a blur looking at it go!
Huge accomplishments already, 11:39 you guys are headed for the record books! I am preparing to move or I would already be building one. I can't wait to get settled so I can dig in, it looks amazing!
Matt, this is inspiring. Any issues with stepper overheat? It has been awhile (3 yrs) since I've seen something non-propritary print this fast. The anet a8 has been sitting awhile now. Using the BT1.4, this may be possible. Thank you!
That is pretty insane. I don't need a fast printer but this would be an awesome DIY project (I bet you anything it'd piss me off a few times as any project of mine). Hell, this prints better than my Ender 3 v2 and so much faster like holy hell.
Yeah, I got really much good feedback on the building experience from my community... a couple of them built the printer with their children, so the next generation of 3d printer builders is ready to rock ;-)
I like it! Think about earthquake remediation for foundations on buildings to dampen movement. Add a version on the footings to dampen the printer's movements and take some work away from the software to compensate. Just a suggestion.
I'd be interested in mods for different sized heatbeds, I'm currently sat here staring at my disassembled sapphire plus I was modding but could never find the energy to finish 😅
Hello there my friend! For sure I will build one of this until the end of this year. I'm thinking on resin printing the cooling vent of the head. Do u think is it going to be to heavy? I don't know what resin I'm going to uso yet.
Hmm... it would be a bit heavier but since there is not a lot of infill on the toolhead it would be fine i guess. Please weight after its done im curious how big the difference between resin and fdm is for that part
Have you considered using carbon fiber rods like the bambulab P1P? I'm currently slapping together a printer with linear rods like you have on here, but I've ordered some carbon fiber rods and am going to give them a shot to see how they perform.
@@MattThePrintingNerdI'm curious on your experience or what you've heard, because so far I've hardly found any info on them. I know they require some post processing to get them to have a consistent diameter and you need to use bushings instead of ball bearings, but that's where my info on them ends.
Yeah that's enough... currently there are no bushings out there that are made for fast printing and that resist carbon fibre.. Also CF is too rough so you dont get a good finish compared to steel rods, You cant post process them because of the epoxy that is used... The whole CF Rod thing is in my opinion a stop block.
Excellent work👌, Very much needed to level the playing field. Would love to see a delta variant based on linear ballscrews, that reduces maintenance and long term wear. Have a lot more ideas to share, if interested.❤👍👍
I already have an upgraded flsun. The suggestion for ballscrew is based on the same(higher speeds with controlled accl/decel). I am fairly satisfied with my upgrades except for pushing the limits in excess of 600mm print speed, which is only possible with a ballscrew setup. But the kinematics should have the least wear compared to corexy, if done right.
i can do 7:40 on my modified proforge 3.5. the main modification was just a lightweight toolhead. The real trick, is taking those speeds and applying them to things other than benchys. tuning the printer to the bare wire with intent on speed benchys, doesnt apply to other prints where the velocities can get higher.
I know, I use the benchy only for reference since most of the ppl in the Community use it to make printers comparable. I also produced dozen of shorts where I print other things at that speeds, have a look at my Road to v.1.1 Playlist.
This is such an awesome concept! I definitely wish it was able to be printed on a 220x220 bed though, having it designed that you need a minimum of a 230x230 build volume definitely limits what printers you can print this on
I'm the kind of guy that paid USD 3500 for a large 5-head printer, costlier than its 16-fliament competitor (including accessory price), just because of the company's reputation for customer support and upgradeability. I would DEFINITELY pay USD 500 for a reliable, easy to assemble/repair, performance printer.
Amazing work, 1 question: Why have a quadratic printbed? Why not a 140 * 200 printbed (similar dimensions as a DIN A5 paper). Most parts are not quadratic and have 1 dimension that is clearly longer than the others. It would allow for a much smaller and thus lighter gantry without any impact on printer capabilities. What is the impact of the gantry width on gantry weigth? Or build a 200 * 290 Printer which has only minimally lower acceleration (due to longer belts an thus more compliance in the belts) but would have a significantly larger printbed.
You're completely right, it would work but the problem we have is sourcing, there is as far as I know no printer / manufacturer out there that could provide us that parts, but yes if you want to build it by yourself you could easily modify the design of the printer
Yeah... but I think that this is kind of cheating... Yeah I do Speedboat for satisfaction and for the clicks.. but for me it's more important to have a package that everyone out there could build and get good speed at a quality level for a reasonable price. So maybe it's necessary for a WR attempt but if possible I would like to avoid it
Nice printer! Way better than anything I could do by a LOT lol. I would also like to see a bigger version. Speeds are great but I want an area that can take advantage of those speeds and not be limited to smaller parts (I am talking no less than 300x300x300 but preferably 600x600x600). Smaller printers are getting faster all the time and I wish someone would focus on the larger ones as those will benefit even more than the smaller printers. Why print a helmet in pieces when you can print it whole? It really is a great feat that you have done here and I applaud you whole heartedly!!!!!! Higher dollar version to me would only be if you upped the size. Without upping the size it will always be limited to ankermake or bambu sizes :(
I watched the older video and noticed that it looked like the filament spool was hitting the wrench hanging behind it. This one is the same. Why? In any case, awesome project.
One small correction:
In the initial Bill of Material I forgot to add 2xLM8UUs for the Z-Axis. I've updated the BOM and it should now contain everything you need to build that printer. Sorry for that.
Hi Matt
I immediately subscribed after this video!
i must agree with selinium shutter on this, auto level is a must nowadays..
also a not so fast version with a 400x400 bed size option would be a good one (if i may be so Bold )
If you could offer hardware packs even with a surcharge I wil immediately buy one ..
I also became a patreon to support you in your efforts !
Same here. Even if I fail, it is something to achieve. Thanks for sharing it!
This is great! Love building stuff like this thank you so much.
It's my first time to see this printer. Absolutely incredible the speed and quality. Literally mind blowing.
Thx ;-)
Literally? Like your brain escaped your cranial superstructure? Yeah, dramatic speech is fine sometimes. This is something that needs to be learned and incorporated. Theatrical hysterics are for the woke. Normal humans see innovation and improve upon it. It is an excellent step for time management to be sure.
especially incredible at this price point!
@@jasonshrout8921you are literally too much, chill, my buddy.
How many rhetoric techniques were in that statement? Guess you have to be AWAKE to figure that out 🤭
It absolutely blows me away that things like this are available for free. This is so damn cool man. I love this side of the community.
I would love to see three versions of the BOM;
First version as cheap as possible; cheap motors, amazon bought hotend and extruder etc. Somewhere to start, I guess.
Second version, the one that's there right now; cheap but still quality with good parts to support high speeds.
And a high end version; going all out on all the parts. Highest end versions of all/most needed parts to get the absolute best quality and highest speeds.
To add, I would also love to see a 300mm³ or larger version as well! Maybe even as big as 500mm³? Though I'm sure that would require a lot of R&D.
I would like to see a version for printers with 220x220 print beds.
@@YourLocalRaccoon you can't really do that with printed frames, printed frames are stiff enough for small build areas but when you get bigger frames may get wonky. Maybe with some metal/carbon reinforcement you could, but at that point you might as well have an all aluminium frame. the 100 with an alu frame would be cool though
@@cozmo4694 could have an insert sleeve for 3/4" conduit, would get good stiffness but nowhere near the cost, especially if the pieces need to be printed in 3 pieces or more
@@cozmo4694 If I understand the video corectly, printing the frame is the main point of the design, as the plastic reduces resonances. Input shaping compensate for resonances /vibration. But it can not totaly eliminate them totaly. So with the printed frame, you reduce vibration from the beginning. Combined with input shaping, you can do insane accelerations.
Using aluminium instead would be contraproductive.
The other way you could reduce vibreation is making the printer heavy. Very heavy, like making steel armored concrete walls and mount the 3d printed frame on them. Actually you could also print the cast to put concrete into...
Anyway, with size increasi8ng, also the rods gain weight. If the moving mass increase, the acceleration you can do goes down.
So excited to print my own, thank you for all the work you have put into this!!!!! Thats amazing, i’m loving this world again
Awww.. thats awesome :-)
Very cool! Keeping the price reasonable is great as well.
I'm not actually all that interested in ludicrous print speed but this video was very well made , your wording and music choice is top notch.
im in the processes of designing a custom printer myself to convert an old cheep bed slinger that was slow and unreliable into a fast core XY dual material machine. Videos like this one have helped me get ideas for my design. I will be using the linear rods at the front and printed frame at the back in my design.
Let’s go! Eager to start printing V1.1
We need the 80/20 principle used on this one.
Make parts easier and lighter. As you said wobbling is a part.
Check out Wich parts can be spared ( maybe only one fan for Part cooling or even one for Part cooling and heatend cooling).
Make it cheaper while maintaining 80% of it's speed.
And port these and future findings into the 100 extended.
You are doing groundbreaking work here. ❤
Thx for you feedback :-)
Thanks again. My version is almost ready! Can't wait to see it print.
Can't wait to see it ... brrrrrrr ;-)
I would be VERY interested in an even faster printer for 500 EUR!
That would be awesome!!
Total krass was Du da machst, und vielen Dank dass du deine Entwicklung teilst!!
in my opinion only 2 things are important:
1: Position of the toolhead above the printbed. In my opinion it doesn't matter if the whole thing is wobbling, if the location of the head is solid and consistent relative to the bed you can put it on a working washing machine on in a car on a bumpy road.
2: Part cooling is only important AFTER the filament leaves the nozzle. Even if the airflow is focused 9mm next to the nozzle it doesn't matter, even at 150mm/s speed that's 0.06s without proper cooling. Good cooling all around might be better (vortex of 4 cooling exhausts?)
That's only true if you see the whole system in a static state, but not as a dynamic system. There are moments where the toolhead moves with 4-5g and since the gcode is something that is mathematically not predictable it might happen that the moving of the toolhead create a wave that adds up to the moving energy the toolhead creates at the next move, those additions ruin your printing quality. So it's more important to transform that energy stored inside the frame so that the addition goes near the energy of the moving toolhead.
As for the part cooling, at high speed you want to have higher air pressure it has a way higher impact on the cooling performance than the airflow itself
im amazed by each realtime clip of this machine in action. no complaints, just applause. adding googly eyes would sacrifice speed but...
Thx ;-)
@MattThePrintingNerd You made a Sweet printer!!! Congratulations on your work! Having both high and low end models available is what a lot of businesses do.
Awesome design this may end up being the first diy printer I build. One thing I’ve seen a lot in the comments is demand for a larger build volume and I’m right there with them.
Yeah I know and to be honest there are many good 3d printers out there like the vzBots, the vorons, the ratrigs.. so there are a lot of options out there to choose from for me 165mm x165mm is the perfect sweetspot for over 80% of all prints that I do.
Wow😍. Thats fast and good quality print.
Thanks for doing this for community ❤
Very nice little monster !! Congrats man. World fastest though ? There are many faster printers out there already :) but this might be the cheapest one to build so its very cool
For $300?
That prints clean at those speeds?
You missed the point entirely.
@@dangerous8333well the title shouldve been something like : the fastest 3d printed 3d printer
@@twanheijkoop6753still nope. Title should’ve been “fastest cheap 3d printer”. 24/7 printing has achieved 1000mm/s with a voron v0 which is also a 3d printed printer.
No you all got that wrong, it's the worlds fastest 3D printer basing on a 3D printed frame. That's the title he's been using lately.
But for clicks things may change 😅
@@dangerous8333Read the title of the video
Thank you for everything you do for us
Most corexy printers running klipper can achieve these speeds and quality it’s just a matter of tuning your machine. Non the less it’s Always great to see another open source printer available to the community.
Wow! What an incredible project. Thank you for all your hard work to put this on printables with all the instructions and parts lists. Awesome!
You are making it very hard to not start snother printer build before Ive finished the one I've already started (Enderwire)... Great work!
Yeah.. have also 2 never ending printer story going now for over 2 years...
bro, I'm so impressed with this! I subscribed straight away and felt like building one for myself
Just freaking tremendous! On my way over to Patreon right now to help suppprt this project.
Thx for your support!
I would be really interested in seeing a version with some added quality of life improvements such as bed probing with UBL and perhaps support for a higher quality, flatter print bed! This looks so great and I can't wait to paint that frame when I build my own!
Thx for your feedback ;-)
I would have thought that the "Clicky Probe" would be the current standard for a DIY printer.
Maybe there is a position for the probe in the design.
Ubl is easy to add, designing a mount for a bltouch is like a 10 minute job and then like... The work in marlin or whatever you decide to run the printer on isn't too hard...it's mostly just uncommenting the stuff you want to activate.
@@NeoIsrafilspeaking of that, how do you activate such features in marlin ? Do you Need to recompile the firmware ? Do you have some video about that ?
Thanks in advance.
excited to print my own, thank you for all the work
I'm so glad I found your video. I was thinking about buying one of those new expensive fast printers some Grass Lab company sells. But part of what I enjoy about this hobby is fiddling around with the printer itself. This looks like exactly what I want.
Thanks for the hard work! This truly will be a fun build!
Haters gonna hate, but I'm glad THE 100 and Rook printers are around.
Excellent! I am definitely interested!
Finally! I can't wait to make one
- Very impressive!
- Great job.
- Wishing you continued success...
Love this printer haven't been able to make one as my cr10 v2 is messing up. Would love to see a bigger version of this as well.
Very excited to recycle an old monoprice plus into this machine! I have been very excited to see where this project would go, and it has exceeded my expectations.. Would love to see a higher speed version that cost more, as long as this version doesn't get abandoned. The different options will make it easier to recycle old machines!
It looks like an incredible project! I wonder if you could provide a bill of materials for this printer with fewer Chinese parts, aiming for a design more akin to the Prusa concept. Keep up the great work!
This is a great video of a great printer. I enjoyed the results but understand the work behind.
Input shaping is pretty awesome. I love the way it works... it's got a biological feel to it, like muscle memory or neuron hysterisis. I got over the speed bug pretty fast after I built my Voron, it was fun for a while but ultimately useful only for bragging rights. Those five minute benchys are hard on components. I have to admit my first reaction to a PLA frame is a gag reflex, but the proof is in the pudding. Can't argue with results. Nice work.
Fantastic effort, love the updates👌
I’d love to see a bigger version of this with a bed closer to 220mm X 220mm that allows for printing medium sized parts. This is super impressive and I myself might build one of these at some point.
sick build, I like your style of considering the reality of vibrations and adjusting for it, rather than tune the machine itself to perfection. it was the same for bed leveling back in the day. people would fiddle with screws and tinker for the perfect bed height, over and over, only when software assumed and adjusted for the uneven bed either by using paper calibration or sensors did 3D print reliability take a massive jump forward.
cut the time from 50 mm/s regular 3d printer to high speed 500 mm/s is worth a lot. I hope this platform become new standard in 3d print industry...
also looking foward to print size 250x250x100 mm or 350x350x100 wanna know if aspect ration (proportion) would affect the vibration...
Me 2, for sure I will experiment with different frame sizes and infill types/density's to learn more about the behaviour of the printer
This is freaking amazing!
Its hard to tell, but does your printer use any sort of counterweight on the moving axes? If not, that might be worth looking into to ensure an equal and opposite force is always present to counteract the backlash generated from the fast movement of the print head. I've seen a few printers basically mount a dummy print head thats the same mass on the opposide side of the drive belt, seriously reducing vibrations and shake while operating.
Another more weird example of this, is Stuff Made Here's wall painting robot: he had a lot of trouble keeping the painting carriage from swinging as it was built with large cables, so to solve the problem he added a counterweight to balance the forces out. Seeing the same principle work wonders on a machine that has practically 0 rigidity compared to the average 3d printer really hammered home how useful a counterweight can be.
This is the beauty of 3d printing world, the next turn to the corner comes with new great ideas to improve and make it wonderfull. A next step into startrek replicator.
Is that my Gridfinity AA battery holder I see at 0:58? Really cool to see it in a random video that popped up in my RUclips recommended!
Awesome printer design! I'm thinking about building my own now. Thanks for releasing it.
Yeah might be! Your model is made for fast printing :-)
awesome printer design and nice video presentation!
Thx :-)
Great work. Looks like you could add some more cooling, flow, as the front window overhang is sagging, and it looks like some deformation near the top of the print.
Amazing work, thank you.
This is amazing. Absolutely fantastic work. Here are my random thoughts.
1) I know we all love 3D printing, but the plastic frame could be injection molded at volume for lower costs.
2) I wonder if something like the Frore AirJet would be a superior nozzle cooling option (120 mph airspeed with a very thin exhaust)
3) I like the high flow hot end as I prefer a 1.0mm nozzle for functional parts (1mm width and 0.25mm layer height for 4:1 ratio for strength)
Good work, very organic way of handling vibration. Id love to see future versions that have a larger print surface and are printable within that surface. When that happens what it allows is someone can print themselves more of these, or their friends, or pay it forward, etc. as it is it looks like itd take another printer to make these, so the ecosystem doesnt self construct. Thats what made a lot of the early printers take off, they were self replicating.
Great work! Nice to see a Voron alternative that has strong design principles and great design! Would your design scale to an Ender 3 sized bed?
We already have mods in discord based on an ender 3 printbed, they are also fast.. ;-)
That's amazeballs. Nice one!
This is truly amazing work! Thank you for pushing the boundaries of this craft. Although I have a question, what materials can be used on this printer? The worry in my mind is that the PLA frame would prevent enclosure required materials.
but you can always screw side panels on. and print hinges and order some acrilic glass for door and dome.
Thank you, this looks promising! I am interested in the $500ish concept. Thanks again!
Thank you, I have just found my next project.
I'm so tempted to pop to my local library to get the parts for this printed there on their 3d printers to build my own hahaha
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation:
00:27 🖨️ Version 1.1 of the P100 3D printer, known as THE 100, offers improved speed, better part cooling, and reduced vibration for higher print quality.
01:42 🛠️ The printer's frame swings freely to absorb energy from the moving tool head, and input shaper compensates for vibrations, resulting in smooth prints.
02:25 🏗️ Version 1.1 eliminates two rods in the printer's design, improving vibration profiles and reducing costs.
03:23 🪶 The redesigned tool head optimizes airflow around the nozzle, enhancing part cooling by over 100% compared to the original design.
05:00 💨 While the CHC Pro hot end is recommended, the printer now supports the Rapido hot end for even faster printing speeds with increased flow rates.
06:22 🧹 Cable management, motor mounting, and maintenance processes have been streamlined for easier construction and upkeep.
09:06 📚 Comprehensive guides and a growing community on Discord provide valuable support for builders of THE 100 3D printer.
10:16 💰 Donations and Patreon support are essential for financing further developments, including creating a kit-based version and aiming for a world record in 3D printing speed.
Made with HARPA AI
Well done... all the best
Do you think it's possible to create this but bigger for bigger prints? Or do you think it would throw everything off? I want to try and build one with a bigger print bed.
Great Video, Great printer!!!
Is it planned to build the frame with 2020 extrusions (or something like that)?
No, it would loose many advantages that it has right now
Super excited to build my own 100, I definitely think that im going to modify it a bit and utilize as many left over parts as a i can from my enderwire, zero G and voron 0.1 builds. This looks like an awesome fun project. As a personal challenge i think im going to speed build and see if i can do the whole build start to benchy in one day
This looks amazing, excellent work! id love to build something like this but id want to make a bigger verion. Would it be an easy process to scale it up 50 to 100%?
You could scale it up, but acceleration does not scale linear, so it would be a bit slower. We already have a couple ppl in discord working on a 235x235 mod
Back in the day (and i'm sure they do it today as well for very niche applications) when grinding parts for example with ridiculously tight tolerances and when measuring these types of parts they would be in a room suspended by cables so it would be isolated from different factors like vibrations (i suspect) and such my cuestion is would something similar work in this instace? would the frame behave differently if it was on some type of platform suspended in each corner?
its amazing how fast your printer goes. i wonder though if the accelerated speed would also accelerate the wear and tear of its parts. for example, if a regular printer would print 100 parts vs your printer, would the status of its parts be the same?
Yeah printing faster will always, wear down moving parts faster. I printed about 800 hours on my v1.0 on the first drylins and they are fine right now, but I notice a tiny bit of play, so if I would be a normal THE 100 owner I would plan to change them, but for science I keep them in the printer and learn how the wear impacts printing quality.
@@MattThePrintingNerd that's an unfortunate side effect, but it that will definitely not stop people as dedicated as you from pushing forward. i do hope continuous success for you and can't wait to see how far you can take this. seriously, its like a blur looking at it go!
Huge accomplishments already, 11:39 you guys are headed for the record books!
I am preparing to move or I would already be building one. I can't wait to get settled so I can dig in, it looks amazing!
Matt, this is inspiring. Any issues with stepper overheat? It has been awhile (3 yrs) since I've seen something non-propritary print this fast. The anet a8 has been sitting awhile now. Using the BT1.4, this may be possible. Thank you!
Incredible. Looking forward to a premium build.
That is pretty insane. I don't need a fast printer but this would be an awesome DIY project (I bet you anything it'd piss me off a few times as any project of mine). Hell, this prints better than my Ender 3 v2 and so much faster like holy hell.
Yeah, I got really much good feedback on the building experience from my community... a couple of them built the printer with their children, so the next generation of 3d printer builders is ready to rock ;-)
The crescent wrench dancing around makes me giggle 🤭
I like it! Think about earthquake remediation for foundations on buildings to dampen movement. Add a version on the footings to dampen the printer's movements and take some work away from the software to compensate. Just a suggestion.
I'd be interested in mods for different sized heatbeds, I'm currently sat here staring at my disassembled sapphire plus I was modding but could never find the energy to finish 😅
Have a look at our discord, there is a group of people that is building a mod around a 235x235 print bed, maybe you like to join ;-)
Hello there my friend! For sure I will build one of this until the end of this year. I'm thinking on resin printing the cooling vent of the head. Do u think is it going to be to heavy? I don't know what resin I'm going to uso yet.
Hmm... it would be a bit heavier but since there is not a lot of infill on the toolhead it would be fine i guess. Please weight after its done im curious how big the difference between resin and fdm is for that part
I love how you test for vibration artifacts with a rounded object.. lol
Have you considered using carbon fiber rods like the bambulab P1P? I'm currently slapping together a printer with linear rods like you have on here, but I've ordered some carbon fiber rods and am going to give them a shot to see how they perform.
Let me know how it worked, my experience with carbon fibre rods was not that great
@@MattThePrintingNerdI'm curious on your experience or what you've heard, because so far I've hardly found any info on them. I know they require some post processing to get them to have a consistent diameter and you need to use bushings instead of ball bearings, but that's where my info on them ends.
Yeah that's enough... currently there are no bushings out there that are made for fast printing and that resist carbon fibre.. Also CF is too rough so you dont get a good finish compared to steel rods, You cant post process them because of the epoxy that is used... The whole CF Rod thing is in my opinion a stop block.
Excellent work👌, Very much needed to level the playing field. Would love to see a delta variant
based on linear ballscrews, that reduces maintenance and long term wear. Have a lot more ideas to share, if interested.❤👍👍
Why don't you make the upgrades and make some videos. Add to the community in a real way. Ideas are cheap and everybody has them.
I already have an upgraded flsun. The suggestion for ballscrew is based on the same(higher speeds with controlled accl/decel). I am fairly satisfied with my upgrades except for pushing the limits in excess of 600mm print speed, which is only possible with a ballscrew setup. But the kinematics should have the least wear compared to corexy, if done right.
Amazing premier
Thanks for being there! 😊
Awww ;-)
i can do 7:40 on my modified proforge 3.5. the main modification was just a lightweight toolhead.
The real trick, is taking those speeds and applying them to things other than benchys. tuning the printer to the bare wire with intent on speed benchys, doesnt apply to other prints where the velocities can get higher.
I know, I use the benchy only for reference since most of the ppl in the Community use it to make printers comparable. I also produced dozen of shorts where I print other things at that speeds, have a look at my Road to v.1.1 Playlist.
Pretty darn neat
What about increasing the nozzle size as well? Maybe a 0.6 could increase quality without compromise
This is such an awesome concept! I definitely wish it was able to be printed on a 220x220 bed though, having it designed that you need a minimum of a 230x230 build volume definitely limits what printers you can print this on
I'm the kind of guy that paid USD 3500 for a large 5-head printer, costlier than its 16-fliament competitor (including accessory price), just because of the company's reputation for customer support and upgradeability. I would DEFINITELY pay USD 500 for a reliable, easy to assemble/repair, performance printer.
Thx for the feedback :-)
I can’t wait to buy the 3.0!! Great job sir
you know, people say 3d printing a 3d printer as a joke. I don't think it's a joke anymore.
Wow. Amazing. I dont subscribe to alot, or like alot but this is it. Amazing work!
damn Matt, nice job! This should be called RepRap's Revenge
Would it make a difference if the two vertical struts weren't installed side-by-side and instead being installed diagonally? Just have a think...😊😊
I want to build one, but the size is a problem for me. Is this easy scalable for a bigger bed like 300x300?
Damn I really love your idea you gain 1 new follower!!!
Amazing work, 1 question: Why have a quadratic printbed? Why not a 140 * 200 printbed (similar dimensions as a DIN A5 paper). Most parts are not quadratic and have 1 dimension that is clearly longer than the others. It would allow for a much smaller and thus lighter gantry without any impact on printer capabilities. What is the impact of the gantry width on gantry weigth? Or build a 200 * 290 Printer which has only minimally lower acceleration (due to longer belts an thus more compliance in the belts) but would have a significantly larger printbed.
You're completely right, it would work but the problem we have is sourcing, there is as far as I know no printer / manufacturer out there that could provide us that parts, but yes if you want to build it by yourself you could easily modify the design of the printer
Amazing, where can I purchase one? How much does it cost? Thank you.
WOW.
Something else to dig my teeth into.
Thanks.
Cheers.
nice video, what about making counterweight on the other side of the belt to reduce motor power and vibrations?
i gotta ask and sorry if i misunderstood, what's the feed rate/minute as well the overall volume/minute?
Awesome build. Where do I order your build and can I get a 18" or 24" drop tray and build diameter? ty
Have you ever tried high speed/flow filament? I heard they increase volumetric flow and can up the speed of some printers
Yeah... but I think that this is kind of cheating... Yeah I do Speedboat for satisfaction and for the clicks.. but for me it's more important to have a package that everyone out there could build and get good speed at a quality level for a reasonable price. So maybe it's necessary for a WR attempt but if possible I would like to avoid it
@MattThePrintingNerd Looks pretty sick. I especially like the toolhead. Would you be willing to maybe adapt it to the Voron v0 and/or legacy?
would be nice to see a big model version , like a 300x300 or even more :)
Have a look at our discord, there a ppl in the community that build a mod around a 235x235 printbed
Nice printer! Way better than anything I could do by a LOT lol. I would also like to see a bigger version. Speeds are great but I want an area that can take advantage of those speeds and not be limited to smaller parts (I am talking no less than 300x300x300 but preferably 600x600x600). Smaller printers are getting faster all the time and I wish someone would focus on the larger ones as those will benefit even more than the smaller printers. Why print a helmet in pieces when you can print it whole? It really is a great feat that you have done here and I applaud you whole heartedly!!!!!!
Higher dollar version to me would only be if you upped the size. Without upping the size it will always be limited to ankermake or bambu sizes :(
Yeah acceleration does not scale that well.. but with printers like the ratrig, you have a very decent printer at good speeds
You will never print as fast on a 600x600 printer, I mean speed wise you can, just not accel which is the real key on faster prints.
Vez's Vz235 is around 40k acceleration and his 330 is around 25-30k if i recall correctly. Mine's 20k. So it'a doable at scale yeah.
I watched the older video and noticed that it looked like the filament spool was hitting the wrench hanging behind it. This one is the same. Why?
In any case, awesome project.