An optimization may be to have the cooling fan mounted to the frame, and a tube carrying the air. This would reduce the complexity and weight of the print head, and allow for far higher volumes of air.
Not really. This is a racing 3d printer without direct extrusion, so unstable PA, no heated chamber, no multi-material, no anti-z-wobble, no CPAP, so only good for benchys. It doesn't even hold top 10 in benchy race even.
you will find that the foamed pla will be much more regid, the foaming agent makes a bubble/honeycomb ish structure inside the extruded pla, and in my line of work this means when you find the right ratio of agent to virgin material will give you ligther and stronger parts, i am a plastic injection moulding enginier in Denmark, let me know if i can be of any help :)
I will be building my first one soon too, with my kids and will be building the 100 standard edition. Really appreciate all the effort you've put in. Thank you.
The recent Black Friday sales at AliExpress made it possible for this printer to be close to the price of the regular printer, so I ordered everything and will update on my progress at discord. Thank you , Matt! Looking forward making this my winter project.
I hate how I felt pointed out by you in the end. I was like: no, I don't really need such high speeds, it's just for speed boat enthusiasts, I'm more practical... Yes, yes I want the high speed version. For... Reasons! Very good reasons! That I can perfectly explain to anyone! Absolutely! I love your project! ❤
obviously it's so you can prototype functional parts a tiny bit faster, only takes several hours of tuning to save a little bit of time every print! Totally worth it!
This is so cool man. The fact that you released it for free too! Buy the parts in bulk and make kits. Makes it easier for us to make one, and you get a bit of profit. I'd spend a good bit more for a kit, especially considering this is half the cost of a voron.
I'm currently building my first... and as you recommend will stick to the original. I do appreciate this video though because it gives me ideas for the future and also shows continued development and progress... thanks! also (quick edit) it looks like all the things you've suggested will fit with the current 3D printed parts.. so won't require completely reprinting all those major parts again!
I currently am enrolled in an engineering program that gives me access to the university’s printer lab for the next three ish years. Once I near the end of that, you best believe I’m building one of these! And it’ll be an even better version than this, which my brain can’t really fathom! I can’t wait!!!
That's so true about pairing. I redesigned the X axis carriage (extruder mount) and Y axis bearing mounts and rod seats for the Sovol SV06 for strength, and more speed with less ghosting. I decided to use PETG for the parts to help with resonance and Drylin for similar reasons, but each bushing needs to be matched to the parts I make. It has been very educational.
Hi Matt. Love the printer awesome stuff. Just wondering how much variation have you noticed if any with regards to performance from community builds compared to yours? How much tuning is needed to achieve these speeds and accuracy?
If you are looking for high stiffness, lightweight materials, might I suggest PP-CF or PP-GF. I think a lot of people avoid polypropylene for its reputation of having poor bed adhesion and a tendency to warp. Magigoo PP is amazing for bed adhesion and using a fiber-filled polypropylene reduces warping significantly. Also, fiber-filled PP can be printed fast. I print Braskem FL500PP-GF at 500mm/s and 20k mm/s^2 (400 mm/s, 10k inner wall, 5k outer wall) on an X1C with an aftermarket CHT nozzle. I would reckon you could reach much higher speeds with your printer. Keep up the great work!!!
That's interesting. Haven't heard much noise around filled PP. Is your CHT nozzle also hardened? The only properly hardened CHT nozzle I've found are the Bondtech Bimetal and the Bozzle Nozzle which are both expensive and hard to get where I live.
Love your dedication to this project, also love your sarcasm on the end of the video 😀. Big thank you for contributing to the community, i love your idea's of simplism and doing the things others won't expect! Keep on going Matt, your doing great things!
I agree, I would like to see a middle ground option that keeps most of the speed improvements just not as laser focused on speed alone but something to handle higher temperature options such as ABS ASA and polyblends. Maybe using CF ASA construction or even higher quality higher temp materials for the printed parts.
How viable would it be to enclose the printer and give it a slightly heated chamber? Ive had good luck at higher temps with cheap carbon fiber ABS (spaghett brand from th3d, doesnt have any warping issues). I just dont know if it would be enough to have a 40c to 60c chamber temp (i like to print odd materials)
Yeah.. it was, I got pretty good feedback on the linear motion kit in the first place from my patreons and for me it's now like waiting for christmas eve, until all the kits arrive and get feedback from an even bigger audience
great project. I've recently came upon realization at just how slow my current printer is compared to my old delta. great to see that the work is still going on. considerting of rebuilding my printer into the 100 desighn. i have a 300mm bed tho so mightt have to adjust
Amazing machine u made! Also i have a question regarding banana pi zero M2. Can you compile successfully rpi mcu on it to use gpio? Does it need some flinicky workarounds or just works simply? I want one cause of size and specs for tiny printer, but only what i got in question of "does the klipper work with other sbc's gpio?" was straight no (besiesdes maybe uart/i2c/spi from klipper handling drivers for that), and you are only one who i know to use this opi.
hello there, i would like to give you an update on my petg build i printed entire lower frame and back upright, installed heat inserts and ... discovered unintentionally every wea point of the frame by "trying how strong it is" long story short back uprights mounting blocks have multiple stress points that allow the part to crack and my block just riped out along with part of the top and walls with not that much pressure i also noticed that all of the plate joints are only 1/3 of the strength of the rest of the frame and are quite wobbly due to double jointed clamp design so i started to redesign the frame first of all instead of 2 clamping blocks with small clamping area i changed the lower frame to 6 big pieces that overlap, 4 cornets and 2 T shaped motor mounts and the lower frame is much stiffer 2nd thing i made all internal corners rounded with fillets 3rd thing i did was to redesign back upright tobe inset into the frame itself, no extra blocks to snap off and a little aftertought i moved right linear z rod to the back so they are directly across the table which should keep the drag of the rable at the same level while making it much less possible for it to lock or sag on one side i am now working on spliting upper frame into more pieces that can be printed with no supports while keeping all kinematics and electronics of the 100 based on the step file my goal is to make frame even stiffer with similar damping abilities but much less stress concentration point and here comes a stupid idea based on hp office jet printers did anyone ever tryed to add counter mass to the toolhead going the oposite direction to cancel out any charmonic vibrations. i know it is much easier in single axis printer by just snaping a weight on the oposite side of the belt but double tower with dummy kinematic should technically work too i am currently burned out for the week so making the upper frame will probably happen next week but you should try printing my design joints and test them out yourself 15mm radius quoter sircle then 30mm straight and quoter circle the other way (in an S shape) with 4 screws clamping those pieces in 30x 15mm pattern joints are mostly self aligning and compared to your design hold by more than 50% of the profile strength it looks hilarious printed as test pieces each in different color from junk pla :]
Have you considered using a Goliath hotend for the high-speed edition? It has up to 100mm^3/s flow. Yes, it costs $135 (for the air-cooled version), but for that flow it's good value.
Currently there is no space for the goliath. It's simply too long, but I plan to move the gantry a bit higher for 2.0 and later so the chances are high hat I might be able to support it in the future
I was able to source all of the materials for the high speed 100 with the exception of the rapido hot end for $310 USD. I’m pumped to see how it turns out.
What driver are you using with those motors? The driver is just as critical as the motor! From the motor, looking back into the driver (effective resistance seen) will have a large effect on top speed, ringing and stability.
Excellent job. Am I right in thinking you were going to design a version with direct drive? And do you think its worthwhile to add a bltouch for levelling?
I'm currently printing 'The 100'. Are there any guides that help with getting close to the speed you are printing at? I currently have an ender 3, which I've spent way too much money on, but I'd like to try speeding things up a bit. Thank you for sharing the build plans.
Im starting rn building THE 100 i bought the "THE 100 linear motion kit" on Aliexpress and im wondering which greas is the best for Highspeed printing?
@@REDxFROG that's true. Tho right sizing every component and paying a single shipping always test to save money, and centralize the quality control. It's less hassle in general. I know how to source, but my boms always end up ballooning somehow
@@MattThePrintingNerd appreciate all the effort you put into this. Btw, did you happen to take a look at the dragon ace? That's a solid hotend that should have similar performance to the rápido, within the same price (or cheaper). Not a fan of the high failure rate rápidos are known for (even if less now)
@@MattThePrintingNerdI'd love to see you collaborate with Fabreeko to put out a kit. They are very active in the open source community and sell some of the best voron and ratrig kits available. They already sell a kit for the rook, so the 100 should be totally possible.
Hey Matt, I am thinking about building THE 100 but I am not used to speed, so the standard model would be the one I should build. But it is literally my job to do 3D printing (at slow speeds) and I can see myself wanting to upgrade it later. Now my question: Would it make any sense to build the standard THE 100 and then replace the parts for the high speed version later? Or should I make one decision and stick with it?
I would not use a THE 100 for a 3D Printing farm, since the time and effort you have to invest into building & tuning one would ruin every business case! Besides that both editions are compatible to each other, so you might upgrade in the future
Hello Matt. Good to see you again. Have you try steel tube instead of steel rod? Definitely lighter, and maybe the stiffness will not decrease so much. Because the highest force from bending moment will work near the surface of the tube.
Project is 11/10 awesome 😎 How about aluminum bolts? They are lighter than titanium, is the strength/ rigidity of titanium necessary? Also seen one of the 3d printer bloggers bolt a 3d printer to a concrete plate, will this also help THE100?
@matttheprintingnerd, realize this comment is late… have you ever considered or tried removing the fans from the gantry and instead having a large fan on the side of the printer and run flexible ducts to the gantry?
Thanks for a great project and an awesome printer. I really appreciate all the hard work you have put into this. I was always in two minds watching the Rolohaun project but now I am very motivated to build your printer and I am already making my plans on the color choice for filaments to use. Going by your expertise I have a crazy idea to use the top XY part of your printer to convert a Ender 3pro to a core XY printer. You already know what benefits to expect even if it prints at 25% of the speed it will still be three times faster than the original. Let me know your thoughts. - A Very BIG fan from India 😊
Why two minds? Rolohaun does a great job on his 3D printed printers, im always happy when the youtube algorithm show me his newly produced video as an inspiration. If you want to go a cheaper route have a look at the Ender 3NG project, it might be even cheaper since you could salvage more parts from the original printer
@@MattThePrintingNerd I am sorry you got me wrong, I respect Rolohaun to the T, it is only your detailed thought process about being a perfectionist that I like better. The ender 3 NG project is already WIP only delay is getting the various specific parts like threaded inserts or linear rods which I am struggling with. I hope to complete it soon anyway. Thanks for your response 😁
Could you tell me where i can get the Linear Motion Parts without Aliexpress? I am from Austria and tried many of this parts in the past, but none of them worked good enough. And now, i would like to build "The 100 High Speed Edition" because i like this design and have build many expensive Printers (with MGN12H) in the past ;-)
Currently we do not offer sales outside AliExpress, but we are open to cooperate with local sellers to bring the kit into their stores, but since this is a pretty new product it will take its time
I still don't have a work space to set up my printers or to build new ones, I am still learning Fusion 360. I can't wait for the "High Speed AWD" The 100!
Hey matt i follow this project and im so fascinated 😍 I printed the bottom Frame and Upper Parts are coming 😬 You also tried hollow rods ? There are 8mm with g6 tolerance hardened to 60hrc Maybe for the toolhead?(lighter) Or would you say they are Not Stoff enough? Thx a lot 😊
I made a prototype of Hollow Rods by myself and it was a nightmare producing them, Out of 30 Rods only 8 survived. It's really hard to create good one ;-)
@@MattThePrintingNerd i found some in my Company for injection tools They are 8mm with g6 tolerance and immer hole 5,4mm Quite expensive i think but its a Common Part in my company How was your experience with those ? Would you recommend ?😊
Can't say for sure, mine are 4mm ID, i tried to go to 5mm but I was not able to produce them without deformation, but it looks like that I had the wrong tools ;-) Do you as company produce them by yourself or do you have a supplier for them? Maybe we should move that conversation to discord ;-)
going to note that ABS is less dense than PLA so you could save weight that way as well. as for a recommendation of ABS, butmat's ABS prints very easily in open air and can handle the cold air from 2 4010s @70%
Aluminum screws are lighter than titanium. Maybe a slight bit more weight reduction is possible by switching to what is often marketed as duraluminum (aluminum 7075) screws which are very common in rc vehicle hobby spaces in the m3 size.
Wouw, this is the stuff dreams are made of. Especially because it is an obtainable dream! I currently don't have the knowledge and experience to build one but i will get there! This is a huge inspiration for me. Little question: would it be possible to fill the 3d printed parts with a kind of slow curing granite epoxy to help reduce internal vibrations? As a great leader said a long, long time ago: we will watch your career with great interest!
Building the Printer is not that hard, over the time I our documentation become rock solid, so have a look at our paper guide and you will see, it's lego for adults ;-)
Yeah, we talked about that in the past. It might come, but currently we are focused on collecting feedback on that product to improve the production process for the next batches
Not for a small speed bump, but for improved reliability, better print quality, and better longevity, I would spend a couple hundred dollars more. If the price difference were several hundred dollars I would have to think twice.
You can drill out the linear rods. They keep over 90% of their strength even with think wall thicknesses but you don´t even have to drill them out this thin. You don´t even have to drill them out entirely, ø5mm x 100mm from each side would decrease the weight more than the titanium screws by ca. 30g. Since you use 2 Rods it would be 60g and you can even go up to ca. 100g with ø6x200 drill bit for instance. Those rods are pretty heavy. You could also probably use Nylon screws in some cases.
The last time I checked out nylon or PEEK screws they were 5-10x the price of titanium, do you have a cheap source for that you want to share? For my next iteration if my THE 100 I produced steel based hollow rods with a 4mm wide inner diameter. It was pretty hard to produce them. Out of 30 rods I got 8 pcs that made the cut. Mass produce them would be a big project on it's own. I would like to see them but currently it's not in my focus. With the release of the linear motion kit I got not only positive feedback, there were a couple of people (not the majority) that reached out to me that the price was too high and they have worries that the whole project moves to a price point were it' similar to other fast printers a premium product, which was never my intention. But it was a learning and showed me that the community has grown to a point where my responsibility gets bigger and bigger and I don't want to change my core values.
@@MattThePrintingNerd PEEK is way to expensive, I didn´t know Nylon bolts were more money than Titanium. Yeah the price point is very important. That´s why I mentioned drilling them out instead of producing them from scratch entirly
Is the PICO able to handle 3x 2.5Amp motors? Their FAQ suggests 0.8A without fan and higher with additional cooling. Still waiting for some v1.1 NONHS parts to test temps with the 1.5A motors
The TMC2209 Drivers are able to run up to a current of 2.0A. The limit they notice in their FAQ is for passive cooling. I used an 5015 blower to actively cool them, which works fine for me
We need an ultrafast beltless delta mini with linear ballscrews mounted on a hemispherical base, that not only prints super fast, but can print without supports! With your experience with the 100, it should be easier done than said.❤👍
started 3d printing last month with my prusa mk3 (self made clone) and now i want to build the 100. my question is can i use pla parts instead of abs. and i cant find ender 2 heat bed
Always wondered if it'd be possible to brute force higher speeds by moving from belts to motorcycle/timing chains and using nema 23/24 motors. Everyone's shaving weight, but I have yet to see anyone just add more power.
The strength to weight ratio of Lightweight PLA is worse than regular PLA. If you have removed as much material as possible and still have headroom in the parts strength requirements, then give LW PLA a try, otherwise it is better to use regular PLA and cut weight by removing material.
I feel lucky that you're the only person that would like to see it, I love printing in multi material but those multiplexers are something that makes every printer slow
Incredible stuff. Thank you for your work. The only criticism I have is that "The 100" was an absolute awful name to choose for this printer. Besides the fact that there is a show called "The 100" which makes googling things about things printer a nightmare, it no longer even reflects the actual max acceleration of the printer!
It should be noted that the alternative meanwell power supply isn't allowed to be distributed in europe due to not meeting the requirements for BE EN/EN61000-3-2. It should be replaced by something like the RSP-320-24 in that case.
I was sure I heard wrong so went back to check…€8000 in parts testing?! Your dedication is respected and appreciated.
Yeah crazy, that was only possible because of the support of my patreons, big thx guys for letting me do what I love the most :-)
Your project needs waaaaay more recognition, thank you for all you have done for us!
Oh wow, and i just realized i watched a benchy being printed in real time, that's amazing!
I was really amused by it.
An optimization may be to have the cooling fan mounted to the frame, and a tube carrying the air. This would reduce the complexity and weight of the print head, and allow for far higher volumes of air.
This guy is adding more actual value on YT than pretty much all other 3d printer tubers combined, should have way more subscribers.
Not really. This is a racing 3d printer without direct extrusion, so unstable PA, no heated chamber, no multi-material, no anti-z-wobble, no CPAP, so only good for benchys. It doesn't even hold top 10 in benchy race even.
you will find that the foamed pla will be much more regid, the foaming agent makes a bubble/honeycomb ish structure inside the extruded pla, and in my line of work this means when you find the right ratio of agent to virgin material will give you ligther and stronger parts, i am a plastic injection moulding enginier in Denmark, let me know if i can be of any help :)
I appreciate that you indexed/chaptered your video and that you were transparent on the pricing and alternatives for cost
I will be building my first one soon too, with my kids and will be building the 100 standard edition. Really appreciate all the effort you've put in. Thank you.
The recent Black Friday sales at AliExpress made it possible for this printer to be close to the price of the regular printer, so I ordered everything and will update on my progress at discord. Thank you , Matt! Looking forward making this my winter project.
You sir have my sincere admiration. So much good effort makes me, even though you correctly say I probably shouldn't, want to build one.
I hate how I felt pointed out by you in the end. I was like: no, I don't really need such high speeds, it's just for speed boat enthusiasts, I'm more practical...
Yes, yes I want the high speed version.
For... Reasons!
Very good reasons!
That I can perfectly explain to anyone!
Absolutely!
I love your project! ❤
obviously it's so you can prototype functional parts a tiny bit faster, only takes several hours of tuning to save a little bit of time every print! Totally worth it!
This is so cool man. The fact that you released it for free too! Buy the parts in bulk and make kits. Makes it easier for us to make one, and you get a bit of profit. I'd spend a good bit more for a kit, especially considering this is half the cost of a voron.
Oh my, what an engineering effort!
This is great! I am now sourcing and printing THE100 base BOM with some high speed components
This is definitely on my print list in the future for sure!
The absolute flex of an 11 minute benchy just printing in the background! Congrats on the project, I'd love to print one myself one day!
I'm currently building my first... and as you recommend will stick to the original. I do appreciate this video though because it gives me ideas for the future and also shows continued development and progress... thanks! also (quick edit) it looks like all the things you've suggested will fit with the current 3D printed parts.. so won't require completely reprinting all those major parts again!
Besides of the Lightweight Gantry it's only a BOM change
I currently am enrolled in an engineering program that gives me access to the university’s printer lab for the next three ish years. Once I near the end of that, you best believe I’m building one of these! And it’ll be an even better version than this, which my brain can’t really fathom! I can’t wait!!!
Great video. Answered a lot of questions and pointed me to right way. Thank you.
Man you are the epitomy of dedication, you deserve so many more subs.
I just stumbled on this video today, and don't really have a need for a printer like this but I WANT IT! 😀
Awesome!
The benchy printing in the background is such a brilliant idea; great video!
That's so true about pairing. I redesigned the X axis carriage (extruder mount) and Y axis bearing mounts and rod seats for the Sovol SV06 for strength, and more speed with less ghosting. I decided to use PETG for the parts to help with resonance and Drylin for similar reasons, but each bushing needs to be matched to the parts I make. It has been very educational.
Did you share these anywhere? I also have a SV06
@@p_serdiuk yeah, google printables smittyforge
I can't wait to build mine! Thanks Matt!
Hi Matt. Love the printer awesome stuff. Just wondering how much variation have you noticed if any with regards to performance from community builds compared to yours? How much tuning is needed to achieve these speeds and accuracy?
I love you man!!! Gr8 stuff!!! I am amazed. Sure I will build one of your machines!!!! Thank you 4 your knowledge, experience and kindness!!!
Amazing work, thank so much. Just got my first budget bedslinger and this looks like a fun project.
So fun. Adding the "one day" build list :)
If you are looking for high stiffness, lightweight materials, might I suggest PP-CF or PP-GF. I think a lot of people avoid polypropylene for its reputation of having poor bed adhesion and a tendency to warp. Magigoo PP is amazing for bed adhesion and using a fiber-filled polypropylene reduces warping significantly. Also, fiber-filled PP can be printed fast. I print Braskem FL500PP-GF at 500mm/s and 20k mm/s^2 (400 mm/s, 10k inner wall, 5k outer wall) on an X1C with an aftermarket CHT nozzle. I would reckon you could reach much higher speeds with your printer. Keep up the great work!!!
That's interesting. Haven't heard much noise around filled PP. Is your CHT nozzle also hardened? The only properly hardened CHT nozzle I've found are the Bondtech Bimetal and the Bozzle Nozzle which are both expensive and hard to get where I live.
Didn't know that there is PP-CF out there, that might be also an good alternative! Thx for the info
@@MattThePrintingNerd The FL900PP-CF prints just as fast as the glass filled. It's pricey, but it's really nice stuff.
Love your dedication to this project, also love your sarcasm on the end of the video 😀.
Big thank you for contributing to the community, i love your idea's of simplism and doing the things others won't expect! Keep on going Matt, your doing great things!
Would love to see an enclosed version for those of us who print more ABS and other higher temp materials.
I agree, I would like to see a middle ground option that keeps most of the speed improvements just not as laser focused on speed alone but something to handle higher temperature options such as ABS ASA and polyblends. Maybe using CF ASA construction or even higher quality higher temp materials for the printed parts.
How viable would it be to enclose the printer and give it a slightly heated chamber?
Ive had good luck at higher temps with cheap carbon fiber ABS (spaghett brand from th3d, doesnt have any warping issues). I just dont know if it would be enough to have a 40c to 60c chamber temp (i like to print odd materials)
Uff this is a looooot of work, I am really impressed, well done.
Yeah.. it was, I got pretty good feedback on the linear motion kit in the first place from my patreons and for me it's now like waiting for christmas eve, until all the kits arrive and get feedback from an even bigger audience
great project. I've recently came upon realization at just how slow my current printer is compared to my old delta. great to see that the work is still going on. considerting of rebuilding my printer into the 100 desighn. i have a 300mm bed tho so mightt have to adjust
Love your final comment. I take it as a challenge. K1 ordered and I'm going to use it to build this and a voron in 24
Amazing machine u made! Also i have a question regarding banana pi zero M2. Can you compile successfully rpi mcu on it to use gpio? Does it need some flinicky workarounds or just works simply? I want one cause of size and specs for tiny printer, but only what i got in question of "does the klipper work with other sbc's gpio?" was straight no (besiesdes maybe uart/i2c/spi from klipper handling drivers for that), and you are only one who i know to use this opi.
hello there, i would like to give you an update on my petg build
i printed entire lower frame and back upright, installed heat inserts and ... discovered unintentionally every wea point of the frame by "trying how strong it is"
long story short back uprights mounting blocks have multiple stress points that allow the part to crack and my block just riped out along with part of the top and walls with not that much pressure
i also noticed that all of the plate joints are only 1/3 of the strength of the rest of the frame and are quite wobbly due to double jointed clamp design
so i started to redesign the frame
first of all instead of 2 clamping blocks with small clamping area i changed the lower frame to 6 big pieces that overlap, 4 cornets and 2 T shaped motor mounts and the lower frame is much stiffer
2nd thing i made all internal corners rounded with fillets
3rd thing i did was to redesign back upright tobe inset into the frame itself, no extra blocks to snap off
and a little aftertought i moved right linear z rod to the back so they are directly across the table which should keep the drag of the rable at the same level while making it much less possible for it to lock or sag on one side
i am now working on spliting upper frame into more pieces that can be printed with no supports while keeping all kinematics and electronics of the 100 based on the step file
my goal is to make frame even stiffer with similar damping abilities but much less stress concentration point
and here comes a stupid idea based on hp office jet printers
did anyone ever tryed to add counter mass to the toolhead going the oposite direction to cancel out any charmonic vibrations. i know it is much easier in single axis printer by just snaping a weight on the oposite side of the belt but double tower with dummy kinematic should technically work too
i am currently burned out for the week so making the upper frame will probably happen next week but you should try printing my design joints and test them out yourself
15mm radius quoter sircle then 30mm straight and quoter circle the other way (in an S shape) with 4 screws clamping those pieces in 30x 15mm pattern
joints are mostly self aligning and compared to your design hold by more than 50% of the profile strength
it looks hilarious printed as test pieces each in different color from junk pla :]
Have you considered using a Goliath hotend for the high-speed edition? It has up to 100mm^3/s flow. Yes, it costs $135 (for the air-cooled version), but for that flow it's good value.
Currently there is no space for the goliath. It's simply too long, but I plan to move the gantry a bit higher for 2.0 and later so the chances are high hat I might be able to support it in the future
You sir are doing good work! This is exactly what I want to build... But have no need for it. For now it will have to wait.
Great video and well done!
I was able to source all of the materials for the high speed 100 with the exception of the rapido hot end for $310 USD. I’m pumped to see how it turns out.
What driver are you using with those motors? The driver is just as critical as the motor! From the motor, looking back into the driver (effective resistance seen) will have a large effect on top speed, ringing and stability.
Incredible, well done Matt!
Excellent job. Am I right in thinking you were going to design a version with direct drive? And do you think its worthwhile to add a bltouch for levelling?
I'm currently printing 'The 100'. Are there any guides that help with getting close to the speed you are printing at? I currently have an ender 3, which I've spent way too much money on, but I'd like to try speeding things up a bit. Thank you for sharing the build plans.
Well done dude! If i have time i will try it myself 😁
Im starting rn building THE 100 i bought the "THE 100 linear motion kit" on Aliexpress and im wondering which greas is the best for Highspeed printing?
WOuldn't printing the gantry parts in ABS be lighter? I'd definitely look at it if you haven't already
I think what's needed now is find someone to pack a kit. Not in the mood for another self sourcing. That's all that's stopping me
The100 part list is short
@@REDxFROG that's true. Tho right sizing every component and paying a single shipping always test to save money, and centralize the quality control. It's less hassle in general. I know how to source, but my boms always end up ballooning somehow
Yeah we are working on that, the linear motion kit is the first part of that puzzle.
@@MattThePrintingNerd appreciate all the effort you put into this. Btw, did you happen to take a look at the dragon ace? That's a solid hotend that should have similar performance to the rápido, within the same price (or cheaper). Not a fan of the high failure rate rápidos are known for (even if less now)
@@MattThePrintingNerdI'd love to see you collaborate with Fabreeko to put out a kit. They are very active in the open source community and sell some of the best voron and ratrig kits available. They already sell a kit for the rook, so the 100 should be totally possible.
Hey Matt, I am thinking about building THE 100 but I am not used to speed, so the standard model would be the one I should build. But it is literally my job to do 3D printing (at slow speeds) and I can see myself wanting to upgrade it later. Now my question: Would it make any sense to build the standard THE 100 and then replace the parts for the high speed version later? Or should I make one decision and stick with it?
I would not use a THE 100 for a 3D Printing farm, since the time and effort you have to invest into building & tuning one would ruin every business case! Besides that both editions are compatible to each other, so you might upgrade in the future
This is "Der Knaller"...! Saugut!!!
Thanks for another great video!
Hello Matt. Good to see you again.
Have you try steel tube instead of steel rod? Definitely lighter, and maybe the stiffness will not decrease so much. Because the highest force from bending moment will work near the surface of the tube.
thank u for your work.
if i double or triple your model dimentions, will it work properly or not?
Project is 11/10 awesome 😎
How about aluminum bolts? They are lighter than titanium, is the strength/ rigidity of titanium necessary?
Also seen one of the 3d printer bloggers bolt a 3d printer to a concrete plate, will this also help THE100?
@matttheprintingnerd, realize this comment is late… have you ever considered or tried removing the fans from the gantry and instead having a large fan on the side of the printer and run flexible ducts to the gantry?
The research into bearings, where is that? Would love to have a look at it, but cannot find it.
Thanks for a great project and an awesome printer. I really appreciate all the hard work you have put into this. I was always in two minds watching the Rolohaun project but now I am very motivated to build your printer and I am already making my plans on the color choice for filaments to use.
Going by your expertise I have a crazy idea to use the top XY part of your printer to convert a Ender 3pro to a core XY printer. You already know what benefits to expect even if it prints at 25% of the speed it will still be three times faster than the original. Let me know your thoughts. - A Very BIG fan from India 😊
Why two minds? Rolohaun does a great job on his 3D printed printers, im always happy when the youtube algorithm show me his newly produced video as an inspiration.
If you want to go a cheaper route have a look at the Ender 3NG project, it might be even cheaper since you could salvage more parts from the original printer
@@MattThePrintingNerd I am sorry you got me wrong, I respect Rolohaun to the T, it is only your detailed thought process about being a perfectionist that I like better. The ender 3 NG project is already WIP only delay is getting the various specific parts like threaded inserts or linear rods which I am struggling with. I hope to complete it soon anyway. Thanks for your response 😁
Could you tell me where i can get the Linear Motion Parts without Aliexpress? I am from Austria and tried many of this parts in the past, but none of them worked good enough. And now, i would like to build "The 100 High Speed Edition" because i like this design and have build many expensive Printers (with MGN12H) in the past ;-)
Currently we do not offer sales outside AliExpress, but we are open to cooperate with local sellers to bring the kit into their stores, but since this is a pretty new product it will take its time
I still don't have a work space to set up my printers or to build new ones, I am still learning Fusion 360. I can't wait for the "High Speed AWD" The 100!
Hey matt i follow this project and im so fascinated 😍
I printed the bottom Frame and Upper Parts are coming 😬
You also tried hollow rods ?
There are 8mm with g6 tolerance hardened to 60hrc
Maybe for the toolhead?(lighter)
Or would you say they are Not Stoff enough?
Thx a lot 😊
I made a prototype of Hollow Rods by myself and it was a nightmare producing them, Out of 30 Rods only 8 survived. It's really hard to create good one ;-)
@@MattThePrintingNerd i found some in my Company for injection tools
They are 8mm with g6 tolerance and immer hole 5,4mm
Quite expensive i think but its a Common Part in my company
How was your experience with those ? Would you recommend ?😊
Can't say for sure, mine are 4mm ID, i tried to go to 5mm but I was not able to produce them without deformation, but it looks like that I had the wrong tools ;-) Do you as company produce them by yourself or do you have a supplier for them? Maybe we should move that conversation to discord ;-)
going to note that ABS is less dense than PLA so you could save weight that way as well. as for a recommendation of ABS, butmat's ABS prints very easily in open air and can handle the cold air from 2 4010s @70%
Aluminum screws are lighter than titanium. Maybe a slight bit more weight reduction is possible by switching to what is often marketed as duraluminum (aluminum 7075) screws which are very common in rc vehicle hobby spaces in the m3 size.
👍👍😎👍👍 - Stunning progress. Thank you!
wow this is amazing... btw isnt the BOM missing an extruder motor?
No, 2 Z-Motors and 1 Extruder motor and 2 fast A/B Motors
Wouw, this is the stuff dreams are made of. Especially because it is an obtainable dream! I currently don't have the knowledge and experience to build one but i will get there! This is a huge inspiration for me.
Little question: would it be possible to fill the 3d printed parts with a kind of slow curing granite epoxy to help reduce internal vibrations?
As a great leader said a long, long time ago: we will watch your career with great interest!
Building the Printer is not that hard, over the time I our documentation become rock solid, so have a look at our paper guide and you will see, it's lego for adults ;-)
Awesome. Absolutely awesome.
Incredible work spending $8000 to source the best parts is true dedication
Yeah that was only possible because so many people support me on patreon. Without them I would not be able to do that!
3:58 did you do any FEA or topology optimization on the XY joints?
When is the next update on this? also any news on a complete kit. I know it was mentioned in a earlier video its in your plans
Can i mix the printers? I mean can i build a normal 100 but use the linear motion system of the 100 speed edition?
Sure they are compatible to each other
Have you tried adding multi-filament extrusion to this?
Would like to make one but it is impossible to find parts on suggested prices. Some of them goes 2-3x with shipping even tho I live in EU.
make a linear bearing vid with your findings pls. I've experienced a huge disparity in quality on those.
Nice setup, do you think you can amke a kits of bearing and rods for other printer like the Prusa?
Yeah, we talked about that in the past. It might come, but currently we are focused on collecting feedback on that product to improve the production process for the next batches
kannst du linearführungen testen die rechteckig und schon mit einem wagen ausgestattet sind?
are there any plans to make an enclosed version of it?
Not for a small speed bump, but for improved reliability, better print quality, and better longevity, I would spend a couple hundred dollars more. If the price difference were several hundred dollars I would have to think twice.
I think im asking for to much but is it possible to make a 250 with 500mm/s? By the way respect
Would love a bigger build volume or suggestions on other builds that have a large build volume. Even if the speed was a bit slower
Have a look at our discord, we have a mod that is based on a 235x235 Ender 3 printbed
You can drill out the linear rods. They keep over 90% of their strength even with think wall thicknesses but you don´t even have to drill them out this thin. You don´t even have to drill them out entirely, ø5mm x 100mm from each side would decrease the weight more than the titanium screws by ca. 30g. Since you use 2 Rods it would be 60g and you can even go up to ca. 100g with ø6x200 drill bit for instance. Those rods are pretty heavy. You could also probably use Nylon screws in some cases.
The last time I checked out nylon or PEEK screws they were 5-10x the price of titanium, do you have a cheap source for that you want to share? For my next iteration if my THE 100 I produced steel based hollow rods with a 4mm wide inner diameter. It was pretty hard to produce them. Out of 30 rods I got 8 pcs that made the cut. Mass produce them would be a big project on it's own. I would like to see them but currently it's not in my focus. With the release of the linear motion kit I got not only positive feedback, there were a couple of people (not the majority) that reached out to me that the price was too high and they have worries that the whole project moves to a price point were it' similar to other fast printers a premium product, which was never my intention. But it was a learning and showed me that the community has grown to a point where my responsibility gets bigger and bigger and I don't want to change my core values.
@@MattThePrintingNerd PEEK is way to expensive, I didn´t know Nylon bolts were more money than Titanium.
Yeah the price point is very important. That´s why I mentioned drilling them out instead of producing them from scratch entirly
Wow, good work !
How much filament is used to bild the printer? What is that spool holder?
How do you feel about linear motors?
Is the PICO able to handle 3x 2.5Amp motors? Their FAQ suggests 0.8A without fan and higher with additional cooling. Still waiting for some v1.1 NONHS parts to test temps with the 1.5A motors
The TMC2209 Drivers are able to run up to a current of 2.0A. The limit they notice in their FAQ is for passive cooling. I used an 5015 blower to actively cool them, which works fine for me
Awesome job. Bravo!
We need an ultrafast beltless delta mini with linear ballscrews mounted on a hemispherical base, that not only prints super fast, but can print without supports! With your experience with the 100, it should be easier done than said.❤👍
Amazing. Especially for the price.
Thx!
@@MattThePrintingNerd thank YOU for all the work you put into it and sharing results
RUclips reads my mind apparently… I was starting to look into building a Voron and then this appears :D
started 3d printing last month with my prusa mk3 (self made clone) and now i want to build the 100. my question is can i use pla parts instead of abs. and i cant find ender 2 heat bed
It's printed using PLA according to the info
Don't you have any plans to install an direct extruder to the toolhead?
How difficult would it be to make 330 x 330 x 330 mm of build volume?
Is it possible to have 4 motors for the corexy? like in the vzbot
it'd be nice to see a version with load-cell bed leveling
Maybe the head weight could be reduced like the new flsun there has a external part cooler connected to the head by a air hose.
Always wondered if it'd be possible to brute force higher speeds by moving from belts to motorcycle/timing chains and using nema 23/24 motors. Everyone's shaving weight, but I have yet to see anyone just add more power.
Yeah there are a couple of samples where people used servo motors, but since it's not allowed for speedboats most people avoid that path
The strength to weight ratio of Lightweight PLA is worse than regular PLA. If you have removed as much material as possible and still have headroom in the parts strength requirements, then give LW PLA a try, otherwise it is better to use regular PLA and cut weight by removing material.
I think you'll have better luck using prefoamed lwpla. The foam PLA is very soft I really don't think it'll work very well
i would love to see a DIY multi colour extruder set up for this as well.
I feel lucky that you're the only person that would like to see it, I love printing in multi material but those multiplexers are something that makes every printer slow
Incredible stuff. Thank you for your work. The only criticism I have is that "The 100" was an absolute awful name to choose for this printer. Besides the fact that there is a show called "The 100" which makes googling things about things printer a nightmare, it no longer even reflects the actual max acceleration of the printer!
It should be noted that the alternative meanwell power supply isn't allowed to be distributed in europe due to not meeting the requirements for BE EN/EN61000-3-2. It should be replaced by something like the RSP-320-24 in that case.
Interesting, every day I learn something new, I will have a look at that and try to find a better pick that's also meets the european requirements
@@MattThePrintingNerd We all have the LRS, which is why no one really cares, but technically they are not allowed yes :D