Im confused though: why not use stuff like concrete and make the parts significantly heavier? Or use a full steel frame resulting in the same. Im planning for my revision of my printer to use a steel frame and attach concrete blocks to the stationary gantry
@@chris_0725 well these are meant to be cheap and relatively easy to build via printing the frame. Using concrete and sheet metal would not fit the spec they gave themselves
You know what. I might build a Hypercube out of an aluminium box section and fill that with concrete. Steel is an option as well with the advantage that it will hold tapped thread really well, but I don't like the prospect of cutting the steel myself with a hand saw. Unless I can get the store to do it for me. There was also a steel conduit conversion of the Anet A8, the EMT8, unfortunately I found the price of the material unreasonable in my region.
Maybe this could even be improved by printing even larger versions of the non-moving frame parts with some hollow compartments and filling them with sand?
This is why I love the 3d printing community, so many possibilities! Gonna have to try this out! Thank you for researching and developing this printer, as well as sharing it!
I run a retail plumbing parts business and we 3D print needed parts that are not available. We have 12 printers and I like what you have done. I will tackle your design in the near future.
The fact that if you pay attention to the examples in the video you won't notice that the boat is halfway finished, is nothing short of outstanding. I'm inspired to join this community!
I won't be able to rest till I have one of my own. As soon as I found this, I knew there was only one option. Thank you for doing this. It's now my new obsession.
I have been wanting to do this for ages, I started working on a 3D Printed printer some time back but became frustrated. I am going to build this. I should have a majority of the parts for it already. Such a great job on this.
Thank You for one of the best 3D printer videos I have ever come accross on RUclips. Your attention to details and the technically explained thought process that went into this design is amazing and something I have never come accross anywhere. I also build and mod printers but your video is outstanding and sends my knowledge about 3D printers to the stone age 😅. Keep up the outstanding work and I will follow your videos and want to build this printer myself one day 😁. You have a VERY BIG FAN from India 😊
Definitely setting the bar very high! Good job in the creation of this printer. The plastic bearings I believe are what's causing the vibration layer lines. I read this on a few forums while back try using the normal 8mm linear ball bearings on one of your prints.
Gonna start printing the parts in 2 days. I’m super excited to build this printer. This build will take me about 3 months to do. Saving for purchasing the parts needed. I will keep you posted
Very inspiring. I've wanted to build a ratrig for a long time and even purchased a few components for it, but as I started getting into it I realised that it would end up costing more than I can afford. Seeing your printer makes me wonder if I could design my own printer at a lower cost.
Suggestions. At the bottom of your printer make a second printer with the weight of your printer head and reverse the motion of your printer this could help dampen the vibrations. Second remove the fan on the printer head and use an external fan with a tube.
Hi Matt, congratz on the video and the idea. The ideia of a affortable yet super capable printer is awesome. Are you going to share the CAD files? I really want to try customizing and building one.
I like many aspects of your design. My first coreXY printer was self-dsigned. It was nowhere as polished as this but it has a great frame 2040 for all. I would love to incorporate some of your design into my printer. I printed out your toolhead in clear PETG and it looks amazing. Thanks for incorporating the angled faces for easy printing.
I hope this comment helps get you some more visibility. It was obviously how I found you, so hopefully others will also benefit from your work. I'm going to take a close look at what you've done. It looks amazing!
That is extremely cool! If I was going to build this I would go a step further and add ceramic/steel plates to the frame to give it as much weight as possible to reduce vibrations. I might even fill the frame with epoxy to make it super rigid. I'm also slightly disappointed with the print volume, maybe I've become accustomed to 220x220 but that seems like a really easy modification to this design given how incredibly modular it is. A little trick I've learned from the guncad community is if you add threaded rods along the length of a print it can increase rigidity substantially, so for this printer you would add them going through the middle of each section of the frame then tighten on both sides with nuts to clamp everything together really tight.
Yeah, I think it would be an interesting idea to explore pauses in the gcode to insert steel bars for rigidity and weight. It could still keep it simple for DIY'ers without having to machine steel! yet get some of the advantages at least and with smart choices of common bar stock, it could be kept reasonably cheap ( I think) . I find it hard to believe that 3d printed plastic can be rigid enough... like compared to aluminum extrusions? the weaknesses of those has to be the joints... Although he did mention big advantages of being able to repostion the steppers in optimum locations. Obviously this design is very sound tho! Its incredibly impressive! And totally on point with RepRap. using a printer to make another printer (oh yeah its also 10 times better!!!!!)
@@DavidBaumgarner Thats a really interesting idea I hadn't even considered, I've seen meter long lengths of stainless rods going for around 20-30 euro on ebay. You would only need a handful of them for the entire printer if you cut them down to size. I agree with you on the joints, they're definitely the biggest source of vibration/lack of rigidity. Some sort of joint that would allow compression would be preferable, maybe even just bolts on the outside edge of the frame?
My method for steel-reinforced plastic is to model internal thread, print the part then drop some CA glue into the threads and screw in a large screw. I would NOT advise trying to insert metal while printing. The adhesion would be poor and the plastic will change dimensions as it cools. It is best to use adhesive after the plastic cools. But MORE IMPORTANTLY, why are people suggesting fixes when they don't have data. You should first test to find the bottlenecks and not just randomly try things. I suspect cooling and extruder speed is what limits this printer to "only" 400 mm/second. To go really fast you have to spend $$$ for bigger direct drive extruders (maybe even 3 mm filament) and a water-cooled hot end. Then you need even bigger A/B motos and a stronger frame and then you've spent $2K. A printer's speed is limited by how many cubic mm of plastic it can extrude per second. This printer is already doing about 40 MM^3. To go twice as fast you would need to find a way to do 80.
Coupling the bed screws to the top frame firectly instead of a load path through the z linear rails, bottom frame, stepper bearings,couplers,and the full length of the screws might be an improvement. You seem to have your head screwed on straight when it comes to mechanical design so I know my comment will be appreciated. The motors can still be at the bottom and rigidly mounted against rotation but flexible in Z, then couple the screws to your top frame with bearings suited to axial loads. Nuts to be positioned conventionally. Or another option since you are space constrained between the bed and top frame, drive the z screws by belt from an offset motor but still mount the screws to the top frame by a thrust bearing.
I really like the concept of this project and I hope your channel gains popularity. I have subscribed and will be watching closely as I’m seriously considering this as my first diy printer. Thank you for all your efforts.
Awesome 3D printer, mate!! Speed and quality in the same machine, that's all I want of a 3D printer! 😁 Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, the BOM and all the other info and your thoughts behind every design element! Amazing work! Really looking forward to you streaming a build of The 100, since I have never put together a 3D printer before. I am already trying to get all the parts needed. Cheers!
This is great and I was going to build one. But then I saw the build area is so small that I wouldn’t know what to do with it. I hope you build something with at least more height for your next project.
Thank your for sticking to the ethics of open source! A fascinating device, I may actually want to build one as the small stuff I do doesn’t require perfect finish at all.
Hi, I think this is great. Could you make a video or text explaining some design choices? If weight is needed why not just add weight with a heavy floor tile or a 3d printed cubile to be filled with cement. Maybe bolting the printer to the wall. Im not an engineer of any sort, I don't really understand the square alignment of weights. Also dual Z leadscrews? a cold bed? I think this is all very interesting, and would love to try 3d printred frame
Great work, love the use of cheap ground rods instead of linear rails. I balked at voron's sticker price but this is very interesting to me. I maybe very well build 4 or 5 to amortised the shipping cost and bulk purchase discount
This looks like an amazing printer. I'm looking at the BOM and sourcing the materials for maybe building it myself, but I'm having some issues with sourcing some parts. Where did you buy the heatbed? I'm having some trouble finding it online. Also, all the hotends I'm finding are more expensive than the price you listed in the BOM, so a link to that would be really helpful as well. Thanks for open sourcing your cool project!
I sourced everything out of aliexpress. Have a look at our Discord Server. There the community collects sources for the all the parts and shares them with each other
I have a 10S Pro V1 with lots of upgrades but i now need a production machine to make many parts fast but i am a poor retired hobbyist. Your design seems to hit a nerve in my brain. As a former automation and robotics manufacturing engineer I know all your discoveries are dead on. Is it truly buildable by an old man with a 10s Pro? and the parts list of stuff needed realistic at $350. Very interesting Project. Dennis in Virginia
i would make a suggestion, is to have the print head underneath, nozzle facing up and the platform up above upside down. This would place the center of gravity (interia) low, unlike having it high causing the box to wobble when printing at high speed. there is a smiliar printer that prints upside down called Positron V3 that does this and is extremly fast printer
I've been contemplating a fast small printer to supplement the large vorons in prototyping. The v.0 is just as you said. The annex machines are great, but spendy and complex. This could be pretty perfect, especially with a kit and a rough printed guide
Very cool! I feel like the importance of the frame weight might be overblown though. Stiffness matters so any movement will translate to the surface it's on. But instead of a fixed contact with the table, imagine if the whole printer were sitting on a free floating platform. Any x-y move of the gantry would then cause a counteracting x-y move of the printer on this platform. If the platform were infinite, there's no problem. This actually seems better than a rigid base as there's no backreaction on the print head that causes ringing. So if the free floating platform were made of some some rails, add some large but soft springs to dampen the printer's movements. A massive frame basically does the same thing just using inertia. Would be a cool experiment at least. The frame would move with fast print head movements, but maybe you wouldn't get those resonances as long as it was stiff and the springs properly damped.
This video is awesome I've just purchased a 3d printer and know nothing about it really but i would love to build a printer to get a better understanding of it! Hope to make one some day!
Its fascinating what has happened since Adrian Bowyer has gone public with RepRap around 2010. I think he started, based on a idea of a student and started in 2005 and having bought very expensive commercial 3D printers for the University Bath before. 200x200x140 mm^3 and 19ml/hour. Very good work, very well explained.
I think this machine can be developed further. This is standing on the desk. I saw some 3D printed clamps on Thingiverse. It is fixed to the desk like a vise. Why not give your printer a stronger hold with 3D printed clamps? This seems to have a positive effect on the printer output. Also, diagonal reinforcement in the part replacing the aluminum profile seems to be able to avoid slight distortion due to the printer's rapid xy vibration. It also looks good to replace the screws that hold the prints together with prints. I believe that parts that are cheaper and closer to the printed product can reduce the production cost. The closer the irregularities are to a streamlined shape and the larger they are, the less distortion there is, and the more angular, sharp or narrow the irregularities are, the inertia of the motor moving at high speed seems to destabilize the position of the nozzle placed by the movement of the motor. If variable speed printing is possible, the quality of the output will be high, such as printing at high speed in sections where printing is done with large and gentle curves, and printing slowly when the unevenness of the printing section where the nozzle will proceed 10 centimeters in the future is rough, congested, and small. Also, if the print frame, which replaces the current aluminum profile, can be slightly uneven and a one-layer flat print can be inserted into it to make it sealed, it will become a luxury product that can be assembled closer to an industrial model. For one of the walls where heat can escape, it would be okay to cut the side of a smooth plastic bottle instead of using an expensive acrylic plate. It's a self-made sealed printer. It would also be a good idea to reinforce the upper profile a little stronger and then place a bench press steel plate on the upper part to suppress the vibration of the upper part that cannot be fixed in a vise.
I've been trying to decide whether to take my old Ender4 and turn it into a Voron or a Prusa clone, but this looks really intriguing. I may build this one.
Hello! This is a very interesting project! I was wondering why you are using IGUS bearings? Compared to regular ball bearings IGUS bearings introduce a very wide, slow ramp up of vibrations on the input shaper resonance graph compared to regular ball bearings which ends up giving you quite poor results with input shaping. I noticed this walking someone through the setup on a sv06. With IGUS bearings his maximum recommended acceleration was at a mere 2k, and with the conventional ball bearings the graph had a quick ramp up peak with a recommended max acceleration of 8k.
I went for a couple different options in the development phase of the printer. I started with normal steel ball bearings and they had always a big amount of play ( i've tested a couple, nonames and reasonable manufactures like Mitsumi with different linear rods ) Up to 20k the performance was pretty good ignoring the annoying sound. But a certain accelerations they tend to blocking. Drylins are bad at slow printing. As you notice the slow ramp up is something you have to consider. But when you drive them for example at 20-30k acceleration there is no ramp up effect anymore. Especially at 40-70k acceleration they shine. But this is something I want to recheck in the near future. Im in contact with multiple linear bearings manufacturers for a production of a comparison video. I would like to compare steel bearings, drylin, copper graphite and sinterbronze and my self designed LM8UU based on different materials. So stay tuned for a details look into this topic
This is great, very nice work. I'm working on a CroXY printer design right now to try and push even more ludicrous speeds, but haven't been able to find a hotend design that could cool the kinds of flow rates I'm looking at pushing - any chance of you releasing the STEP files for the hot end so other people in the community can adapt it to other mounting systems?
no linear rails, no carbon fiber rods... Although does not seem that kinematics are the limiting factor here... It seems like flow rates and cooling must be limiting you, right? Excellent job... Pretty impressive!
Very nice printer! I am planning to build one! I also was looking at @Rolohaun's Rook mk1 mostly printed 3d printer, which is a great design aswell...I like the simplicity of round liner rods being used and believe in easily obtainable replacement components. Great Job on the 100 printer, looking forward to building one very soon!
Dear Matt,I loved your video and admire your perseverance and focus to produce this. The video showed a great summary of lots of videos and experiments that I have watched on youtube. I love the speed that it prints at, as one of the things that stopped me from using my 3d printer was the time to print. The second was strength. Will your cooling that is needed for the overhangs and speed affect the strength? My impression is that the layers do not stick so well if cooled, and that is why people may heat the prints in ovens with bicarb, to get them to weld together and become stronger. Or is this overcome by the greater heat buffer capacity and flow of the nozzle. (My frustrations with lots of learning issues with my alfawise u20, and clogged nozzles, and flat bed issues with the print over sticking and then peeling off after a few layers, learning cad software etc. make me appreciate your work more. The thing which really upset me was when it did print the part was weak despite orientation and infill. All I wanted was a flymo hinge pin. In frustration I got a disposable extra 2 razor handle and made it do the job. I will revisit 3d printing having had a break.
I printed that t-800 but with the base at 0.2 layers on an ender 3 pretty much unmodded except the part cooling and an all metal heatbreak, not stock profile though, stock ender 3 profile is trash. it took 21 hours. I have no idea how it would take 82 hours on even the stock profile.
Amazing engineering. Just wondering, is it 'cheating' for these boat races just to bolt the printer to a wall? It seems this would be a cheap, simple (5 min) way to dampen any vibration resonances / need for mass?
This looks just wonderfull. I would love to try assemble the 100 in summer. I saw there are stl files of parts needed, but are there recommended printing settings to do so?
Maybe a dumb question but -- if vibration is the primary enemy of fast printing, why not design a printer that's fixed to a wall to make it rock solid? I'm surprised that I can't seem to find anybody trying something like that. Is there an obvious reason it wouldn't help?
I've build my own 3d printer, the goal, reliable operation. I never built for speed, but I've had an idea that I want to try out. This is to move the fan off the print head. I have a large blower fan that I am going to make a duct for and then run tubing down to the print head the only weight on the print head will be the tubing plus whatever I put there to hold it in place. I plan on using 4 pieces of tubing pointed at the print area, though this idea may change as well. I am thinking perhaps a manifold made of nothing but flexible tubing with holes drilled into it, with all holes pointing at the print. I need to do the design and testing, but I don't mind; this is the whole reason I built my own printer after all...
is it more or less beneficial to mechanically anchor the printer to a large, heavy, stable workbench or even a super-rigid shelf mounted to multiple wall studs via a fabricated metal shelf frame and supports? what about additional mechanical anchors coming from the top of the printer's frame to the wall in addition to the base being mechanically anchored to a stable / heavy platform (whether it ends up being a shelf or work bench)? trying to decide if it is worth the effort of mechanically stabilizing such a machine or if it would hinder more than help it? thanks!
Excellent work, but question. Why the small build volume? Is the design approach you have taken incompatible with a more conventional (225x225x250, or larger build volume?
This is awesome. I have an old Solidoodle frame with witch I'd wager I can bastardize this motion system into. And a buddy who's keen on assembling a fully printed version!
I just had an Idea for increasing speed and/or torque of stepper motors. You could get a reduction timing belt kit with lower torque faster speed lighter stepper motors. This would make your 0.9 stepper motors more like 0.3 stepper motors which should increase accuracy and torque and reduce load on the actual motors. If you can liquify the filament fast enough I think you can really increase speed and accuracy. by mechanically reducing your drive ratio you would have to seriously increase power output to the steppers. Probably going to need water cooling or maybe even liquid nitrogen cooling but maybe that's extreme. THis might also help with stepper drivers staying cooler also.
Several PLA manufacturers have improved PLA performance in specific engineered situations. One example, Polymaker. Printed RC Airplanes PLA Lite (Extra Foamy) Drones Industrial Strength. PLA Polymax (Outperforms ABS) How would either of these Engineered PLA's affect The 100's design? When increasing the bed size to 300mm x 300mm? Will they help in limiting flex as the size of The 100 increases? What concerns can be overcome by selecting an engineered PLA instead of regular PLA?
Hey, this is a very promising build, i like it! maybe this was mentioned in the video and i didn't notice, but how tall is the build area? is it a 165mm cube? For me to build this myself it would need to be close to 250x250x165mm, it seems like that would be achievable easily by modifying the frame to be longer and implementing panes which are screwed in the frame every couple of centimeters to provide additional rigidity to counter the longer frame. (+maybe filling the frame with epoxy resin to provide extra stiffness+weight) To counter the fact that the linear rails would get pretty wobbly, one could lighten up the print head by having one big fan on the frame to provide cooling to everything and using a hose to deliver the air to the hotend, then you would achieve minimal weight on the moving parts, only having to move: Hotend, printed ducts, part of the air hose and the parts for fixing the hotend to the rails (incl. bearings)
Ive always wondered rather than a faster and faster traveling head .... Split the build chamber into 4 and have 4 independent hot ends that overlap. Yeah the control could be more difficult to avoid collisions but surely that would be faster right??
Yes they are. For the Z-Axis they work really well. They are custom fitted so that they create a small amount of pushing force which help to stabilize the z-axis. For my v1.1 i've changed them to linear bearings and to be honest I liked the self printed version better.
I just started printing the rook yesterday but now I'm questioning if I want to switch over to this one instead. Really I just wanted to check out corexy printers as I got into printing a couple months ago and maxed out my speed and quality I can achieve with my sv06. Great printer but I still want more. Guess I'll be building this one as well too probably haha
@@MattThePrintingNerd Servus, ich bin echt begeistert von deinem Projekt und möchte es jetzt auch nachbauen, aber ein paar Fragen hätte ich dazu: -Ich bin erst seit einem halben Jahr am 3D Drucken, ist der Bau und installation für Anfänger geeignet? -Reicht das Druckbett vom Ender 3 V2? -Ich hab auf Printables den THE 100 gefunden, aber deine Beschreibung ist auf Englisch. Gibt es die auch auf Deutsch? -Bist Du auf einen Board aktiv, wo auch andere es bauen oder man sich austauschen kann? Sorry für die vielen Fragen
Puuhhh... that's tough... my Voron has ~60mods, my vzBot ~35 and my Ratrig ~15 mods so I would guess that the ratrig had the best out of the box experience. It's a perfect base to print fast, but since it's build volume is normally very high (most of the ppl buy a ratrig because it 500x500 print bed size) it's hard to get its chamber at about 60-62 for easy asa/abs printing, here the is shining.. since it's a good compromise between quality and speed.. the vzbot is fast but since it uses much carbon fibre (CF starts loosing its stiffness at ~60°C) it's like the THE 100 a fast printer that's not made for ABS/ASA printing
Could you do a version for a 300x300mm print bed? Or if you upload dimensions of the parts I could model the necessary changes myself in fusion 360. (I know this will affect the max speed of the printer but it's a sacrifice i'm willing to make)🙃
I love that others in the community are slowly beginning to realize that the non-moving components need to be as heavy as possible! Great work!
Im confused though: why not use stuff like concrete and make the parts significantly heavier? Or use a full steel frame resulting in the same. Im planning for my revision of my printer to use a steel frame and attach concrete blocks to the stationary gantry
@@chris_0725 well these are meant to be cheap and relatively easy to build via printing the frame. Using concrete and sheet metal would not fit the spec they gave themselves
You know what. I might build a Hypercube out of an aluminium box section and fill that with concrete. Steel is an option as well with the advantage that it will hold tapped thread really well, but I don't like the prospect of cutting the steel myself with a hand saw. Unless I can get the store to do it for me.
There was also a steel conduit conversion of the Anet A8, the EMT8, unfortunately I found the price of the material unreasonable in my region.
Maybe this could even be improved by printing even larger versions of the non-moving frame parts with some hollow compartments and filling them with sand?
@@MrMoralHazard Sand might also work as a good damping material, which would increase performance.
This is why I love the 3d printing community, so many possibilities! Gonna have to try this out! Thank you for researching and developing this printer, as well as sharing it!
Amazing video, great work
Your amazing work has evolved!!!
Just came from reddit...
This is impressive, well done.
I run a retail plumbing parts business and we 3D print needed parts that are not available. We have 12 printers and I like what you have done. I will tackle your design in the near future.
The fact that if you pay attention to the examples in the video you won't notice that the boat is halfway finished, is nothing short of outstanding. I'm inspired to join this community!
I won't be able to rest till I have one of my own. As soon as I found this, I knew there was only one option. Thank you for doing this. It's now my new obsession.
I have been wanting to do this for ages, I started working on a 3D Printed printer some time back but became frustrated. I am going to build this. I should have a majority of the parts for it already. Such a great job on this.
Thank You for one of the best 3D printer videos I have ever come accross on RUclips. Your attention to details and the technically explained thought process that went into this design is amazing and something I have never come accross anywhere. I also build and mod printers but your video is outstanding and sends my knowledge about 3D printers to the stone age 😅. Keep up the outstanding work and I will follow your videos and want to build this printer myself one day 😁. You have a VERY BIG FAN from India 😊
As someone just getting into the hobby, this diving head first into the speedy benchy's has been fun to watch.
Definitely setting the bar very high! Good job in the creation of this printer. The plastic bearings I believe are what's causing the vibration layer lines. I read this on a few forums while back try using the normal 8mm linear ball bearings on one of your prints.
Gonna start printing the parts in 2 days. I’m super excited to build this printer. This build will take me about 3 months to do. Saving for purchasing the parts needed. I will keep you posted
This is dope! Probably my last build before I design my own printer. Great work!!
Great work!! Awesome. It's great to see the thought and planning which went into this. Nice!
Very inspiring. I've wanted to build a ratrig for a long time and even purchased a few components for it, but as I started getting into it I realised that it would end up costing more than I can afford. Seeing your printer makes me wonder if I could design my own printer at a lower cost.
Cool, would love to see you build one LIVE. Plus, everyone needs a cheap and affordable speedy-quality DIY 3D print. THX
Intriguing! Always looking for people making real projects with their printers (especially new printers!).
I'll definitely have to keep an eye out for future developments
Congratulations on the project!
Thank you for keeping this open source! 🙏🏻
This man is undersubscribed. Have some engagement.
Thank you! I will definitely look into this!
This is makes me proud to be part of this community.
Suggestions. At the bottom of your printer make a second printer with the weight of your printer head and reverse the motion of your printer this could help dampen the vibrations. Second remove the fan on the printer head and use an external fan with a tube.
One more extreme thing. Don't know if would work but maybe building it in a vacuum chamber to remove air drag. Or a chamber with N2
Hi Matt, congratz on the video and the idea. The ideia of a affortable yet super capable printer is awesome. Are you going to share the CAD files? I really want to try customizing and building one.
I like many aspects of your design. My first coreXY printer was self-dsigned. It was nowhere as polished as this but it has a great frame 2040 for all. I would love to incorporate some of your design into my printer.
I printed out your toolhead in clear PETG and it looks amazing. Thanks for incorporating the angled faces for easy printing.
I hope this comment helps get you some more visibility. It was obviously how I found you, so hopefully others will also benefit from your work. I'm going to take a close look at what you've done. It looks amazing!
That is extremely cool! If I was going to build this I would go a step further and add ceramic/steel plates to the frame to give it as much weight as possible to reduce vibrations. I might even fill the frame with epoxy to make it super rigid.
I'm also slightly disappointed with the print volume, maybe I've become accustomed to 220x220 but that seems like a really easy modification to this design given how incredibly modular it is.
A little trick I've learned from the guncad community is if you add threaded rods along the length of a print it can increase rigidity substantially, so for this printer you would add them going through the middle of each section of the frame then tighten on both sides with nuts to clamp everything together really tight.
Yeah, I think it would be an interesting idea to explore pauses in the gcode to insert steel bars for rigidity and weight. It could still keep it simple for DIY'ers without having to machine steel! yet get some of the advantages at least and with smart choices of common bar stock, it could be kept reasonably cheap ( I think) .
I find it hard to believe that 3d printed plastic can be rigid enough... like compared to aluminum extrusions? the weaknesses of those has to be the joints... Although he did mention big advantages of being able to repostion the steppers in optimum locations.
Obviously this design is very sound tho! Its incredibly impressive!
And totally on point with RepRap. using a printer to make another printer (oh yeah its also 10 times better!!!!!)
@@DavidBaumgarner Thats a really interesting idea I hadn't even considered, I've seen meter long lengths of stainless rods going for around 20-30 euro on ebay. You would only need a handful of them for the entire printer if you cut them down to size.
I agree with you on the joints, they're definitely the biggest source of vibration/lack of rigidity. Some sort of joint that would allow compression would be preferable, maybe even just bolts on the outside edge of the frame?
My method for steel-reinforced plastic is to model internal thread, print the part then drop some CA glue into the threads and screw in a large screw. I would NOT advise trying to insert metal while printing. The adhesion would be poor and the plastic will change dimensions as it cools. It is best to use adhesive after the plastic cools. But MORE IMPORTANTLY, why are people suggesting fixes when they don't have data. You should first test to find the bottlenecks and not just randomly try things. I suspect cooling and extruder speed is what limits this printer to "only" 400 mm/second. To go really fast you have to spend $$$ for bigger direct drive extruders (maybe even 3 mm filament) and a water-cooled hot end. Then you need even bigger A/B motos and a stronger frame and then you've spent $2K. A printer's speed is limited by how many cubic mm of plastic it can extrude per second. This printer is already doing about 40 MM^3. To go twice as fast you would need to find a way to do 80.
Thank you, great design, great to make it open source! Could you also share the CAD files to make modding easier?
Love seeing all the diy printed printers. I hope to build at least one at some point.
Impressive and impressively generous of you to share. I'm inspired to give it a go.
Coupling the bed screws to the top frame firectly instead of a load path through the z linear rails, bottom frame, stepper bearings,couplers,and the full length of the screws might be an improvement. You seem to have your head screwed on straight when it comes to mechanical design so I know my comment will be appreciated.
The motors can still be at the bottom and rigidly mounted against rotation but flexible in Z, then couple the screws to your top frame with bearings suited to axial loads. Nuts to be positioned conventionally.
Or another option since you are space constrained between the bed and top frame, drive the z screws by belt from an offset motor but still mount the screws to the top frame by a thrust bearing.
Nice job!!! I love seeing others expand on people 3d printers
I really like the concept of this project and I hope your channel gains popularity. I have subscribed and will be watching closely as I’m seriously considering this as my first diy printer. Thank you for all your efforts.
Awesome 3D printer, mate!!
Speed and quality in the same machine, that's all I want of a 3D printer! 😁
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge, the BOM and all the other info and your thoughts behind every design element! Amazing work!
Really looking forward to you streaming a build of The 100, since I have never put together a 3D printer before.
I am already trying to get all the parts needed.
Cheers!
This is great and I was going to build one. But then I saw the build area is so small that I wouldn’t know what to do with it. I hope you build something with at least more height for your next project.
Thank your for sticking to the ethics of open source!
A fascinating device, I may actually want to build one as the small stuff I do doesn’t require perfect finish at all.
this is absolutely incredible!!!! i think i need one !!
REALLY REALLY WELL DONE!
Would like to follow your project and build one. Seems your design principles make a lot of sense
Thanks Matt, thanks for a beautiful printer, thanks for sharing.
Hi, I think this is great. Could you make a video or text explaining some design choices?
If weight is needed why not just add weight with a heavy floor tile or a 3d printed cubile to be filled with cement. Maybe bolting the printer to the wall. Im not an engineer of any sort, I don't really understand the square alignment of weights.
Also dual Z leadscrews? a cold bed?
I think this is all very interesting, and would love to try 3d printred frame
Very exciting to see how this project will evolve. Nice!
Amazing. I'm gonna dive in and build one
Have been looking into building my first coreXY printer to compliment my growing collection of Bambu P1Ps, going to give The 100 a shot!
Great work, love the use of cheap ground rods instead of linear rails. I balked at voron's sticker price but this is very interesting to me. I maybe very well build 4 or 5 to amortised the shipping cost and bulk purchase discount
This looks like an amazing printer.
I'm looking at the BOM and sourcing the materials for maybe building it myself, but I'm having some issues with sourcing some parts.
Where did you buy the heatbed? I'm having some trouble finding it online.
Also, all the hotends I'm finding are more expensive than the price you listed in the BOM, so a link to that would be really helpful as well.
Thanks for open sourcing your cool project!
Please update the bom to include amazon US links, thanks
I sourced everything out of aliexpress. Have a look at our Discord Server. There the community collects sources for the all the parts and shares them with each other
@@MattThePrintingNerd Awesome! Will be joining!
Nice build! I hope a nice community grows around it. Thank you for the work and sharing and contribution to the open source hardware ecosystem.
I have a 10S Pro V1 with lots of upgrades but i now need a production machine to make many parts fast but i am a poor retired hobbyist. Your design seems to hit a nerve in my brain. As a former automation and robotics manufacturing engineer I know all your discoveries are dead on. Is it truly buildable by an old man with a 10s Pro? and the parts list of stuff needed realistic at $350. Very interesting Project. Dennis in Virginia
Hey Dennis, as a manufacturing engineer this will be a piece of cake, as long as your printer is able to print bigger parts without warping.
@@MattThePrintingNerd can do, tender chassis, empire state building in 1/64 scale this is pretty exciting.
i would make a suggestion, is to have the print head underneath, nozzle facing up and the platform up above upside down. This would place the center of gravity (interia) low, unlike having it high causing the box to wobble when printing at high speed. there is a smiliar printer that prints upside down called Positron V3 that does this and is extremly fast printer
I've been contemplating a fast small printer to supplement the large vorons in prototyping. The v.0 is just as you said. The annex machines are great, but spendy and complex. This could be pretty perfect, especially with a kit and a rough printed guide
Very cool! I feel like the importance of the frame weight might be overblown though. Stiffness matters so any movement will translate to the surface it's on. But instead of a fixed contact with the table, imagine if the whole printer were sitting on a free floating platform. Any x-y move of the gantry would then cause a counteracting x-y move of the printer on this platform. If the platform were infinite, there's no problem.
This actually seems better than a rigid base as there's no backreaction on the print head that causes ringing. So if the free floating platform were made of some some rails, add some large but soft springs to dampen the printer's movements. A massive frame basically does the same thing just using inertia.
Would be a cool experiment at least. The frame would move with fast print head movements, but maybe you wouldn't get those resonances as long as it was stiff and the springs properly damped.
Great work, I think it would be more easier if it use bed with same size as ender 3 since it is widely available in the market.
Exactly my thoughts
This is the first diy printer that I've genuinely thought about making.
This video is awesome I've just purchased a 3d printer and know nothing about it really but i would love to build a printer to get a better understanding of it! Hope to make one some day!
Its fascinating what has happened since Adrian Bowyer has gone public with RepRap around 2010. I think he started, based on a idea of a student and started in 2005 and having bought very expensive commercial 3D printers for the University Bath before.
200x200x140 mm^3 and 19ml/hour.
Very good work, very well explained.
I think this machine can be developed further. This is standing on the desk. I saw some 3D printed clamps on Thingiverse. It is fixed to the desk like a vise. Why not give your printer a stronger hold with 3D printed clamps? This seems to have a positive effect on the printer output. Also, diagonal reinforcement in the part replacing the aluminum profile seems to be able to avoid slight distortion due to the printer's rapid xy vibration.
It also looks good to replace the screws that hold the prints together with prints. I believe that parts that are cheaper and closer to the printed product can reduce the production cost. The closer the irregularities are to a streamlined shape and the larger they are, the less distortion there is, and the more angular, sharp or narrow the irregularities are, the inertia of the motor moving at high speed seems to destabilize the position of the nozzle placed by the movement of the motor. If variable speed printing is possible, the quality of the output will be high, such as printing at high speed in sections where printing is done with large and gentle curves, and printing slowly when the unevenness of the printing section where the nozzle will proceed 10 centimeters in the future is rough, congested, and small.
Also, if the print frame, which replaces the current aluminum profile, can be slightly uneven and a one-layer flat print can be inserted into it to make it sealed, it will become a luxury product that can be assembled closer to an industrial model. For one of the walls where heat can escape, it would be okay to cut the side of a smooth plastic bottle instead of using an expensive acrylic plate. It's a self-made sealed printer.
It would also be a good idea to reinforce the upper profile a little stronger and then place a bench press steel plate on the upper part to suppress the vibration of the upper part that cannot be fixed in a vise.
I was planning on building rook180 but this printer is amazing.
I will be waiting for your build stream 👍
I planned the build stream for mid of april. I've ordered all the parts needed yesterday, but it takes 3-4 weeks for the shipping.
@@MattThePrintingNerd I'm subbing so I don't miss that. This looks so promising!
This is awesome! I will def be following and attempting this project. Thank you for sharing your work!
YES! Please do a live construction!
I've been trying to decide whether to take my old Ender4 and turn it into a Voron or a Prusa clone, but this looks really intriguing. I may build this one.
Hello! This is a very interesting project! I was wondering why you are using IGUS bearings? Compared to regular ball bearings IGUS bearings introduce a very wide, slow ramp up of vibrations on the input shaper resonance graph compared to regular ball bearings which ends up giving you quite poor results with input shaping. I noticed this walking someone through the setup on a sv06. With IGUS bearings his maximum recommended acceleration was at a mere 2k, and with the conventional ball bearings the graph had a quick ramp up peak with a recommended max acceleration of 8k.
I went for a couple different options in the development phase of the printer. I started with normal steel ball bearings and they had always a big amount of play ( i've tested a couple, nonames and reasonable manufactures like Mitsumi with different linear rods ) Up to 20k the performance was pretty good ignoring the annoying sound. But a certain accelerations they tend to blocking. Drylins are bad at slow printing. As you notice the slow ramp up is something you have to consider. But when you drive them for example at 20-30k acceleration there is no ramp up effect anymore. Especially at 40-70k acceleration they shine. But this is something I want to recheck in the near future. Im in contact with multiple linear bearings manufacturers for a production of a comparison video. I would like to compare steel bearings, drylin, copper graphite and sinterbronze and my self designed LM8UU based on different materials. So stay tuned for a details look into this topic
This is great, very nice work. I'm working on a CroXY printer design right now to try and push even more ludicrous speeds, but haven't been able to find a hotend design that could cool the kinds of flow rates I'm looking at pushing - any chance of you releasing the STEP files for the hot end so other people in the community can adapt it to other mounting systems?
One pretty good way is by using big fann outside printing area blowing air on the whole printer layer. Like bamboo.
no linear rails, no carbon fiber rods... Although does not seem that kinematics are the limiting factor here... It seems like flow rates and cooling must be limiting you, right?
Excellent job... Pretty impressive!
Very nice printer! I am planning to build one! I also was looking at @Rolohaun's Rook mk1 mostly printed 3d printer, which is a great design aswell...I like the simplicity of round liner rods being used and believe in easily obtainable replacement components. Great Job on the 100 printer, looking forward to building one very soon!
Fantastic work sir! Would you happen to have the print profiles for download?
Did you try the link in the description?
I've added them to the github repository
This thing is amazing. Really brings out the RepRap spirit!
Dear Matt,I loved your video and admire your perseverance and focus to produce this. The video showed a great summary of lots of videos and experiments that I have watched on youtube.
I love the speed that it prints at, as one of the things that stopped me from using my 3d printer was the time to print. The second was strength. Will your cooling that is needed for the overhangs and speed affect the strength? My impression is that the layers do not stick so well if cooled, and that is why people may heat the prints in ovens with bicarb, to get them to weld together and become stronger. Or is this overcome by the greater heat buffer capacity and flow of the nozzle.
(My frustrations with lots of learning issues with my alfawise u20, and clogged nozzles, and flat bed issues with the print over sticking and then peeling off after a few layers, learning cad software etc. make me appreciate your work more.
The thing which really upset me was when it did print the part was weak despite orientation and infill. All I wanted was a flymo hinge pin. In frustration I got a disposable extra 2 razor handle and made it do the job. I will revisit 3d printing having had a break.
I printed that t-800 but with the base at 0.2 layers on an ender 3 pretty much unmodded except the part cooling and an all metal heatbreak, not stock profile though, stock ender 3 profile is trash. it took 21 hours. I have no idea how it would take 82 hours on even the stock profile.
Amazing engineering. Just wondering, is it 'cheating' for these boat races just to bolt the printer to a wall? It seems this would be a cheap, simple (5 min) way to dampen any vibration resonances / need for mass?
This looks just wonderfull. I would love to try assemble the 100 in summer. I saw there are stl files of parts needed, but are there recommended printing settings to do so?
I've added a section about the print settings at the readme of the github repository
Maybe a dumb question but -- if vibration is the primary enemy of fast printing, why not design a printer that's fixed to a wall to make it rock solid? I'm surprised that I can't seem to find anybody trying something like that. Is there an obvious reason it wouldn't help?
I've build my own 3d printer, the goal, reliable operation. I never built for speed, but I've had an idea that I want to try out. This is to move the fan off the print head. I have a large blower fan that I am going to make a duct for and then run tubing down to the print head the only weight on the print head will be the tubing plus whatever I put there to hold it in place. I plan on using 4 pieces of tubing pointed at the print area, though this idea may change as well. I am thinking perhaps a manifold made of nothing but flexible tubing with holes drilled into it, with all holes pointing at the print. I need to do the design and testing, but I don't mind; this is the whole reason I built my own printer after all...
is it more or less beneficial to mechanically anchor the printer to a large, heavy, stable workbench or even a super-rigid shelf mounted to multiple wall studs via a fabricated metal shelf frame and supports?
what about additional mechanical anchors coming from the top of the printer's frame to the wall in addition to the base being mechanically anchored to a stable / heavy platform (whether it ends up being a shelf or work bench)?
trying to decide if it is worth the effort of mechanically stabilizing such a machine or if it would hinder more than help it?
thanks!
Excellent work, but question. Why the small build volume? Is the design approach you have taken incompatible with a more conventional (225x225x250, or larger build volume?
As I described in that video it's the perfect sweetspot for me since im able to print about 80% of my prints on it
the lens used to show the overall printer on the desk makes it look distorted in many shots.
This might be the wrong direction for you but I would love to see an expandable larger print bed. High performance parts.
This is awesome.
I have an old Solidoodle frame with witch I'd wager I can bastardize this motion system into.
And a buddy who's keen on assembling a fully printed version!
i've seen someone on youtube work with concrete and 3dprints to create a lathe. might be worth looking into
I just had an Idea for increasing speed and/or torque of stepper motors. You could get a reduction timing belt kit with lower torque faster speed lighter stepper motors. This would make your 0.9 stepper motors more like 0.3 stepper motors which should increase accuracy and torque and reduce load on the actual motors. If you can liquify the filament fast enough I think you can really increase speed and accuracy. by mechanically reducing your drive ratio you would have to seriously increase power output to the steppers. Probably going to need water cooling or maybe even liquid nitrogen cooling but maybe that's extreme. THis might also help with stepper drivers staying cooler also.
Great vid! Have a few spare parts that might work.
Dear Matt, Could you go into resonance tuning in another video for if we use different materials? How is this done?
Several PLA manufacturers have improved PLA performance in specific engineered situations.
One example, Polymaker.
Printed RC Airplanes
PLA Lite (Extra Foamy)
Drones
Industrial Strength.
PLA Polymax (Outperforms ABS)
How would either of these Engineered PLA's affect The 100's design? When increasing the bed size to 300mm x 300mm? Will they help in limiting flex as the size of The 100 increases?
What concerns can be overcome by selecting an engineered PLA instead of regular PLA?
No PLA is fine
I'd love to see a full build video
Currently im producing a assembly guide video series. The first video will come at the beginning of next week, following by one video per week.
@@MattThePrintingNerd Nice! Very cool printer. I just got a P1P myself but I've been wanting to build something so this might be in my future :-)
I assume it wouldn't be too difficult to build this printer with a BTT Octopus and a bunch for 2209 steppers?
Hey, this is a very promising build, i like it!
maybe this was mentioned in the video and i didn't notice, but how tall is the build area? is it a 165mm cube?
For me to build this myself it would need to be close to 250x250x165mm, it seems like that would be achievable easily by modifying the frame to be longer and implementing panes which are screwed in the frame every couple of centimeters to provide additional rigidity to counter the longer frame. (+maybe filling the frame with epoxy resin to provide extra stiffness+weight)
To counter the fact that the linear rails would get pretty wobbly, one could lighten up the print head by having one big fan on the frame to provide cooling to everything and using a hose to deliver the air to the hotend, then you would achieve minimal weight on the moving parts, only having to move: Hotend, printed ducts, part of the air hose and the parts for fixing the hotend to the rails (incl. bearings)
Amazing work !!! 😀
Patrick from Bethesda Maryland USA !!!
How is it different from rook
Ive always wondered rather than a faster and faster traveling head .... Split the build chamber into 4 and have 4 independent hot ends that overlap. Yeah the control could be more difficult to avoid collisions but surely that would be faster right??
Are those printed bearings, how are they holding up, which material any thoughts? Why not linear rails . Awesome printer
Yes they are. For the Z-Axis they work really well. They are custom fitted so that they create a small amount of pushing force which help to stabilize the z-axis. For my v1.1 i've changed them to linear bearings and to be honest I liked the self printed version better.
thank you for sharing your design !
I just started printing the rook yesterday but now I'm questioning if I want to switch over to this one instead. Really I just wanted to check out corexy printers as I got into printing a couple months ago and maxed out my speed and quality I can achieve with my sv06. Great printer but I still want more. Guess I'll be building this one as well too probably haha
In my experience the Rook has similar printspeed as a well tuned sv06 at a bit better quality.
This looks awesome!
Definitely want to build one I think, really cool concept and I think most of my prints also fall into the 165mm² range
I am new to 3D printing, but I bought a Tronxy x5s kit a while ago and wondered if it could be converted to this printer style?
Einfach nur der Hammer!!!
Wie lange dauert der Druck der Teile (mit einem Standard Drucker )und der Zusammenbau insgesamt?
Ca 1-2 Wochen auf nem normalen Drucker
@@MattThePrintingNerd Servus,
ich bin echt begeistert von deinem Projekt und möchte es jetzt auch nachbauen, aber ein paar Fragen hätte ich dazu:
-Ich bin erst seit einem halben Jahr am 3D Drucken, ist der Bau und installation für Anfänger geeignet?
-Reicht das Druckbett vom Ender 3 V2?
-Ich hab auf Printables den THE 100 gefunden, aber deine Beschreibung ist auf Englisch. Gibt es die auch auf Deutsch?
-Bist Du auf einen Board aktiv, wo auch andere es bauen oder man sich austauschen kann?
Sorry für die vielen Fragen
Will all the usual plastic filament materials work at the high print speed?
Great results, is this already using input shaping?
I'd love to see variations of this at different sizes
Out of the voron, rartrig and vzbot what was your favourable design? Great content!
Puuhhh... that's tough... my Voron has ~60mods, my vzBot ~35 and my Ratrig ~15 mods so I would guess that the ratrig had the best out of the box experience. It's a perfect base to print fast, but since it's build volume is normally very high (most of the ppl buy a ratrig because it 500x500 print bed size) it's hard to get its chamber at about 60-62 for easy asa/abs printing, here the is shining.. since it's a good compromise between quality and speed.. the vzbot is fast but since it uses much carbon fibre (CF starts loosing its stiffness at ~60°C) it's like the THE 100 a fast printer that's not made for ABS/ASA printing
on the BOM can you add the numbers of bolts we need?
Could you do a version for a 300x300mm print bed? Or if you upload dimensions of the parts I could model the necessary changes myself in fusion 360. (I know this will affect the max speed of the printer but it's a sacrifice i'm willing to make)🙃
Agreed! 💯🤟
Think you!Great work!