Simply amazing! I absolutely love my enclosed Prusa, but every time I have to print a polycarbonate part and I'm waiting for the printer to finish a small PLA part -- I can't help but think "This machine is kind of overqualified for that job", I need some work horses. Most of the time I don't need a rich feature set, 300c hotend or build volume -- I just need more parts to finish per 24h. And everyone knows: The best way to make a printer four times as fast, is not to build a Voron/RatRig. No, the best way is to have 4 printers at a quarter of the price! The Rook seems repairable, moddable, plenty capable, and very cheap -- It ticks all the boxes!
Albert Einstein: "the best solution is the simplest solution that works". This printer certainly precisely aims in that direction. This is a pretty genius hardcore printer. Nice colour by the way
🎉 This is really nice design! Seems a little easier to make than a Voron, and the reaults are impressive. The main parts I have lying around are spare mainboards, so it would be great to print and build some Rocks to put them to good use and give them extra evaluation.
The best thing about this printer is the colour. As good or even better is the integration of structural parts as framework and it is all topped off with a massive amount of simplicity. You are a very creative fella, Master Rolohaun. Impressive.
A cool idea for integrating the bed into the frame would be to embed magnets into the z axis plate and then you could slap on a cheap steel flex-plate build surface. It would prevent any chance of the nozzle gouging a printed build plate.
This thing is a masterpiece of simplistic design. If You have a 300x300 bed can you print the top in 1 piece instead of the 5 or so pieces that you have shown here? Looking forward to getting the files for this.
@@Rolohaun Agreed, larger versions would be cool too. But what I meant to ask was if you can print the top piece as 1 component using a 300x300 printer. It looks like it was made in 5 pieces (frame, idler mounts, stepper mounts) to save space on the "mother" printer
Omg this is awesome! I thought of a few cost-saving measures that maybe could help: 1. Remove two of the rods in opposing corners. Replace these rods with the existing z screws. The core xy layer can interface with the z screws via a bearing (so the rotating screws don't imaprt any force on the core xy layer). 2. Remove one of the nema Z motors and connect the two rails with a belt and pulley. This means possibly a bit more calibration to get the zscrews even though.
I think it would be better to rigidly mount the leadscrews as part of the frame, and instead turn the nuts to travel up and down. For example you could put pairs of 15x21x4 bearings in the bed carrier, and print 24 tooth pulleys with a long 15mm OD cylindrical portion above the upper flange, and leadscrew threads on the inside. The flange would be 17-18mm OD, and serve as a platform for the inner race of the bearing to sit on (assuming the pulleys stick out the bottom of the bed carrier). Mount a single motor to the bed carrier somewhere to turn both pulleys with a closed loop belt.
@@pooounderscoreman lol, I'm struggling to resist the urge to build it myself just to watch it go. I don't need another 3D printer, and I don't have space or money or time for one either. I came up with an even better version too. Instead of opposing corners, keep the two front rods for the linear bearings, and have them stick above the top to double as the idler shafts (as someone suggested in another comment). Replace the back two rods near the motors with leadscrews, and then add a third leadscrew in the front. Use 3 independent motors turning each of the nuts with 3D printed gears instead of belts and pulleys, and you can have automatic leveling of a one-piece 3D printed non-heated bed, instead of needing the separate bed carrier and spring-mounted bed. You could probably even do away with the bearings supporting the combo pulley/leadscrew nuts. Just print ~10mm face width gears with leadscrew threads inside and let them rub against the underside of the bed as they turn. Maybe stick a bit of teflon sheet or something inbetween to act as a thrust washer, if grease isn't enough to prevent wear.
Gives me nostalgia back to the early days of reprap Also the yellow filament plus the printed frame just reminds me of the old GUS SIMPSON delta from way back
This is absolutely brilliant on so many levels.The first idea for the Voron V0.1 was to 3d print i, but that idea was scrapped. This design seems to prove that it was a viable idea. I think that you may have changed the hobby with this design! I wanted to try to design something like thi but now I don't have to because you already did it!! The Z-axis rails doubling as the frame are what really make it special. Congrats!
Recently picked up a used Anet 8 for spare parts, but saw this video and have decided to use it as a donor. Between it and a spare SKR 1.4, should have most of the bits needed. Finished scaling the frame for the 220mm bed and started printing last night. I am excited to get going on this mostly printed project after success with the Lowrider2 (mostly printed cnc router).
Neat design having linear rods double as frame, reminds me of the early delta printer designs. For the cheap idlers I'd suggest some green or red loctite(green wicks better).
Concept is awesome but let’s also keep in mind that PLA creeps under mechanical load. This thing will require constant adjustment until it eventually is so skewed the prints look horrible. If you’re going for a retro rep rap style printer for nostalgia over strength and rigidity maybe use ASA or ABS for these parts, as the originals were
Could you have the 2 vertical rod for the front linear bearings stick out the top another 50mm and put the idler bearings onto it? You could change the diameter of the idler wheel to maintain the correct belt positioning.
@@Rolohaun I got some of the CR-10 hotends from Ali Express for £2.19 which is around $2.54 and they are good they come in red, silver and blue heatsinks, I fit compression fittings for the Bowden instead of the pneumatic ones with the teeth and add a Haldis bi-metalic heatbrake and a Mellow Mk8 nozzle, I swapped out some friends and a few family members hotends for them after they saw mine working just as well as the Micro Swiss, it is a very cheap but effective hotend.
Very cool. I'm confident that you could get a klicky-NG-style probe on that print head. I've been working on my own that is extremely small using only 2 magnets, and the probe module isn't much larger than the omron micro-switch itself. The hotend mount is 2 magnets and a small set-screw to make a "tripod" to stabilize the probe. It would fit under your hotend fan, assuming that the magnets wouldn't interfere with its motor. Working out a docking solution is the tricky part, but worst-case you could just have the printer beep at you to attach and remove it manually.
this is going to change the trend of what you do when you get a 3d printer. From now on you will print a second 3d printer and then begin to print all the mods for the first one
@@jeffreyepiscopo And how easy they are to make to decent standards. Alignment of the axis and leadscrews is vital in 3d printing. Aluminium extrusion and steel plates/linear rods(prusa i3) is great for that. Lots of plastic parts leaves lots of room for errors to build up. Easy fix for those who don't mind to tinker but not great for a consistent out of the box experience.
Have you thought about designing an enclosed variant? Solid panels will easily grant you racking and torsional rigidity. I'm taking to incorporate the z mounts into the panels, like an exoskeleton.
Imagine in, in Glow In The Dark plastic, with wither a LED at the nozzle, or 2 - 4 LEDs as "Spotlights" in the frame. That being said; this is absolutely amazing and I'm going to take a look on making this soon!
I think you can try small proximity switches. The smallest 3mm cylinder can be easily placed in the tool head. This may be a good way to give up leveling screws
Love this design! A bit what I was planning on designing myself of all my spare parts I have laying around. However, I'm not going to build this one, because *designing* the printer is part of the fun 😀
Here's an idea for leveling a printed bed: just print a permanent raft on it. It'd be the additive equivalent of surfacing the spoilboard on a cnc router.
You could remove the fan on the print head and replace it with a properly shaped intake if the cooling fan can be placed on the other side and air focused more; this way you can decrease print head mass, enabling faster accelerations, and still guarantee good hotend cooling and making part cooling better (necessary for fast printing). Another possible improvement could be to remove one of the z axis motor and couple the lead screws with 3d printed gears (motor can be placed centrally) in order to decrease not-printed parts. Finally, if higher print speed are a goal (or if you want a cool-looking enclosure to display the printer in your living room) you could mount it in an Ikea EKET cube. It would increase rigity and look VERY cool.
It's interesting to see how much this is PLA but just enough is using more stable/sturdy rails and screws: basically, the printed parts appear to be tensile in nature. If this had a heated bed, I wonder if there'd be interesting stresses in the plastic frame parts. I'm thinking you'd want the rails to only really attach in the middle of the edges of the frame to minimize frame warping. Of course, it'd best be made out of something better able to tolerate heat than a PLA variant. It'd also require some consideration for the width between the mount points, too, as the rails along Y (calling it that to differentiate, and typically bed-slingers use that orientation) may shift dimensions along X, causing some interesting things for the stresses that may skew things. At minimum, I'd expect such a printed printer to perhaps degrade over time if not accounted for. The X rail crossbar helps keep the dimensional accuracy within the realm of metal coefficient of expansion, regardless of what the plastic does. Did you print this on the Bambu to get it printed very fast?
Could you please upscale this for printing on a larger 300 x 300mm printer? Current Linear rail size would be plenty big. I'd go with 10-12mm Z rods though.
Thanks this realy is awesome. Please for us less tech savy people make a video on the setup of the MB and how you are sending STL files to the MB. What slicer and settings are you using for the printer.
Very cool printer. Bit of an Idea for part cooling fan, you can mount a fan to the back of the toolhead in the same way as ratrig does. Then you wouldn’t lose on print area i think.
just love it! inspired me greatly. have all i need to build my own but the rails.. not a fan of them. thinking of using vslot instead with the small wheels, taking away a little of the all 3d printed idea. rods for x and y to maybe.. oh insperation how i have missed u!
I think i will build and tune this! I just love simple stuff. Maybe check out my inverted delta on my channel which also shifts all the complexity from hotend, cooling, weight etc to only the construction of the bed. Awesome man!
If you're 3d printing the bed, then why not use the printer itself to do that? That way you know it will be parallel to the print head. Obviously print the frame on another machine, but use this one to put the final layers on. You could manually probe the bed to get a rough level and then have that compensation blended out within the first 10 layers or so. That way your final product would be level and flat (compared to the mechanical xy movement)
Hey! Looks amazing. Its nice how much effort and thinking you put into this design. I think i'm gonna build one of these. BUT i would first like to see some quality / speed comparison prints. Because the prints shown in your videos are not "that" nice i think. I mean they look good, but for small parts, i would like to archive top quality when printing slow. I got a V2.4 and have everything i want, but for small parts, this machine could be a good option. Could you try to make a video with nice videos/photos of the prints, so we can clearly see the quality capacities? Thanks! Go on!
Can you please advise on 3d printing CAD designed parts to fit together? Do you apply clearance distance in your design and just print, or apply some positive/negative expansion in slicer? Thanks
Love it! How is the Z resistance to racking? I noticed you used short-length LMUU bearings. Especially with the whole Z-axis being printed, I would worry that it could wiggle too much and maybe even stick? Maybe three screws would be better?
its REALLY COOL❤ i cant 3d print it (prusa mini& building a voron0.2), but ill attemt to cnc mill the frame from plywood and mount the parts some other way once i finish my 0.2 ill either build one or recycle my prusa mini the lower frame can be milled as is , the bed carrier as well the top frame needs some mods, but nothing i cant do 🤷♂️ well see how this plays out
wouldn't it be easy and better to design the outer profiles from 2020 profiles and print the corners where the guides go through? would give the whole thing more stability. so a mixture of your printer and a Voron V0.1.
really good ideas, I've been wanting to design a little corexy that maximizes the printing area while minimizing the overall dimensions and this seems to do it perfectly. Also I had the printed frame idea in mind for a while but didn't have good ideas for the Z axis, this is really good and makes much more sense than what I had in mind. I might design my own someday with a higher focus on portability, thanks for sharing!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
I see a budget v0 which there's is defenitely a market for. Awesome build yo!
The Z-axis double functioning as frame is superb!!! A major step to make simple printers.
Bringing the spirit of Reprap back! Excellent work!
Yes! Thank you!
@@Rolohaun Want to join your discord. What you designed and built is very inspiring! I want to contribute.
Simply amazing!
I absolutely love my enclosed Prusa, but every time I have to print a polycarbonate part and I'm waiting for the printer to finish a small PLA part -- I can't help but think "This machine is kind of overqualified for that job", I need some work horses. Most of the time I don't need a rich feature set, 300c hotend or build volume -- I just need more parts to finish per 24h.
And everyone knows: The best way to make a printer four times as fast, is not to build a Voron/RatRig. No, the best way is to have 4 printers at a quarter of the price! The Rook seems repairable, moddable, plenty capable, and very cheap -- It ticks all the boxes!
Albert Einstein: "the best solution is the simplest solution that works". This printer certainly precisely aims in that direction. This is a pretty genius hardcore printer. Nice colour by the way
This is an amazing 3D printer build and I can't wait to build one of my own!
One more to add to the ever growning list of printers I need to build. Outstanding work, thanks for sharing.
Very welcome!
🎉 This is really nice design! Seems a little easier to make than a Voron, and the reaults are impressive. The main parts I have lying around are spare mainboards, so it would be great to print and build some Rocks to put them to good use and give them extra evaluation.
Dude this printer is really sick, especially for the cheap price! Im super impressed, and you definitely got a new sub.
Fascinated by accessible 3D printer builds to help others into the community, this might be my favourite so far!
The best thing about this printer is the colour. As good or even better is the integration of structural parts as framework and it is all topped off with a massive amount of simplicity. You are a very creative fella, Master Rolohaun. Impressive.
It's alive!
Going back to the roots of reprap, very cool :)
I got me an Ender3 and this thing you've designed looks amazing, thanks for sharing.
¡Gracias!
A cool idea for integrating the bed into the frame would be to embed magnets into the z axis plate and then you could slap on a cheap steel flex-plate build surface. It would prevent any chance of the nozzle gouging a printed build plate.
This thing is a masterpiece of simplistic design.
If You have a 300x300 bed can you print the top in 1 piece instead of the 5 or so pieces that you have shown here? Looking forward to getting the files for this.
yes larger versions would be really cool to see!
@@Rolohaun Agreed, larger versions would be cool too.
But what I meant to ask was if you can print the top piece as 1 component using a 300x300 printer. It looks like it was made in 5 pieces (frame, idler mounts, stepper mounts) to save space on the "mother" printer
@@NathanBuildsRobots yes your would need a 280mm bed I think
Love it. It comes with a price tag i can afford lamo. Rolohaun subscribers to the moon. 100k by 2023!
Lets goooo
Omg this is awesome!
I thought of a few cost-saving measures that maybe could help:
1. Remove two of the rods in opposing corners. Replace these rods with the existing z screws. The core xy layer can interface with the z screws via a bearing (so the rotating screws don't imaprt any force on the core xy layer).
2. Remove one of the nema Z motors and connect the two rails with a belt and pulley. This means possibly a bit more calibration to get the zscrews even though.
Maybe there are good reasons these wouldn't help or save on cost but I thought it made sense in my head haha. Love your work!
these would be cool to try for sure!
I think it would be better to rigidly mount the leadscrews as part of the frame, and instead turn the nuts to travel up and down. For example you could put pairs of 15x21x4 bearings in the bed carrier, and print 24 tooth pulleys with a long 15mm OD cylindrical portion above the upper flange, and leadscrew threads on the inside. The flange would be 17-18mm OD, and serve as a platform for the inner race of the bearing to sit on (assuming the pulleys stick out the bottom of the bed carrier). Mount a single motor to the bed carrier somewhere to turn both pulleys with a closed loop belt.
@@dekutree64 damn, that sounds clever for sure!
@@pooounderscoreman lol, I'm struggling to resist the urge to build it myself just to watch it go. I don't need another 3D printer, and I don't have space or money or time for one either.
I came up with an even better version too. Instead of opposing corners, keep the two front rods for the linear bearings, and have them stick above the top to double as the idler shafts (as someone suggested in another comment). Replace the back two rods near the motors with leadscrews, and then add a third leadscrew in the front. Use 3 independent motors turning each of the nuts with 3D printed gears instead of belts and pulleys, and you can have automatic leveling of a one-piece 3D printed non-heated bed, instead of needing the separate bed carrier and spring-mounted bed. You could probably even do away with the bearings supporting the combo pulley/leadscrew nuts. Just print ~10mm face width gears with leadscrew threads inside and let them rub against the underside of the bed as they turn. Maybe stick a bit of teflon sheet or something inbetween to act as a thrust washer, if grease isn't enough to prevent wear.
This freaking awesome bro..I love where you're channel is going
I appreciate that!
Gives me nostalgia back to the early days of reprap
Also the yellow filament plus the printed frame just reminds me of the old GUS SIMPSON delta from way back
This is absolutely brilliant on so many levels.The first idea for the Voron V0.1 was to 3d print i, but that idea was scrapped. This design seems to prove that it was a viable idea. I think that you may have changed the hobby with this design! I wanted to try to design something like thi but now I don't have to because you already did it!! The Z-axis rails doubling as the frame are what really make it special. Congrats!
Thank you very much!
Recently picked up a used Anet 8 for spare parts, but saw this video and have decided to use it as a donor. Between it and a spare SKR 1.4, should have most of the bits needed. Finished scaling the frame for the 220mm bed and started printing last night. I am excited to get going on this mostly printed project after success with the Lowrider2 (mostly printed cnc router).
Definitely thinking about tearing apart my old Cubify Cube 2 I bought for practically nothing to build one of these. This looks awesome!!!!
Neat design having linear rods double as frame, reminds me of the early delta printer designs. For the cheap idlers I'd suggest some green or red loctite(green wicks better).
Never stop innovating :)
Concept is awesome but let’s also keep in mind that PLA creeps under mechanical load. This thing will require constant adjustment until it eventually is so skewed the prints look horrible. If you’re going for a retro rep rap style printer for nostalgia over strength and rigidity maybe use ASA or ABS for these parts, as the originals were
PLA PRO seems to be ok with this but the user can print this in ASA, PETG, PLA, ABS which ever
Could you have the 2 vertical rod for the front linear bearings stick out the top another 50mm and put the idler bearings onto it? You could change the diameter of the idler wheel to maintain the correct belt positioning.
maybe if I could find 8mm ID idlers, I have not seen any?
@@Rolohaun I got some of the CR-10 hotends from Ali Express for £2.19 which is around $2.54 and they are good they come in red, silver and blue heatsinks, I fit compression fittings for the Bowden instead of the pneumatic ones with the teeth and add a Haldis bi-metalic heatbrake and a Mellow Mk8 nozzle, I swapped out some friends and a few family members hotends for them after they saw mine working just as well as the Micro Swiss, it is a very cheap but effective hotend.
@@Rolohaun I could make some. There are thin bearings for RC cars that have large IDs that would probably work.
@@Rolohaun I think you could fit a 3D printed 24 tooth over an HK0810 bearing.
Very cool. I'm confident that you could get a klicky-NG-style probe on that print head. I've been working on my own that is extremely small using only 2 magnets, and the probe module isn't much larger than the omron micro-switch itself. The hotend mount is 2 magnets and a small set-screw to make a "tripod" to stabilize the probe. It would fit under your hotend fan, assuming that the magnets wouldn't interfere with its motor. Working out a docking solution is the tricky part, but worst-case you could just have the printer beep at you to attach and remove it manually.
Cool printer and nice work on the design.
That's awesome, great job! I'm going to load this up into Onshape and start having a closer look at it. Thanks so much for sharing
Awesome! Thank you!
Would love to start printing this printer from PET1 Filament :) Woot! Less filament needed is always a good thing to hear! Great work!
this is going to change the trend of what you do when you get a 3d printer. From now on you will print a second 3d printer and then begin to print all the mods for the first one
Imagine if something like this became the cheap standard instead of mediocre ender 3 bed slingers
If the plastic parts can be injection molded that may work. The reason ender 3s can be cheap is just how quick and easy they are to make.
Yes but people will probably want a larger print area.
@@jeffreyepiscopo And how easy they are to make to decent standards. Alignment of the axis and leadscrews is vital in 3d printing. Aluminium extrusion and steel plates/linear rods(prusa i3) is great for that. Lots of plastic parts leaves lots of room for errors to build up. Easy fix for those who don't mind to tinker but not great for a consistent out of the box experience.
I'm thinking about trying this build before the voron...looks awesome and simple
It is.
Have you thought about designing an enclosed variant? Solid panels will easily grant you racking and torsional rigidity. I'm taking to incorporate the z mounts into the panels, like an exoskeleton.
there is some talk about that on my discord and a bunch of mods already! I recommend people check it out
Great design, check all the boxes for tinkerers on a budget. I will give it a try since I almost already have all the parts.
Imagine in, in Glow In The Dark plastic, with wither a LED at the nozzle, or 2 - 4 LEDs as "Spotlights" in the frame. That being said; this is absolutely amazing and I'm going to take a look on making this soon!
thank you!
Great design and execution. I might have to try this one myself!
Nice design. Great work!
Pretty interesting idea, I’m wondering now if I should use the A8s spare parts on this
you could use the mainboard with marlin, cut down the linear rods and you would have a good start!
Cool and simple. Thanks for making it available to all.
No problem!
wow, the second i figure out how to get some money, i'm making this
I think you can try small proximity switches. The smallest 3mm cylinder can be easily placed in the tool head. This may be a good way to give up leveling screws
I haven't had to level the lead screws yet
Love this design! A bit what I was planning on designing myself of all my spare parts I have laying around.
However, I'm not going to build this one, because *designing* the printer is part of the fun 😀
Awesome! Reminds me of the reprap Darwin
guess i found my next project lol looks pretty nice man good job.
This is an awesome DIY Voron alternative, looking forward to seeing more about it.
damn your designs are awesome!!
Really great build.
Here's an idea for leveling a printed bed: just print a permanent raft on it. It'd be the additive equivalent of surfacing the spoilboard on a cnc router.
I started off printing with a RepRap Mendel that finished off being a Mendel90, I would have given my back teeth for a Rook back then!
You could remove the fan on the print head and replace it with a properly shaped intake if the cooling fan can be placed on the other side and air focused more; this way you can decrease print head mass, enabling faster accelerations, and still guarantee good hotend cooling and making part cooling better (necessary for fast printing).
Another possible improvement could be to remove one of the z axis motor and couple the lead screws with 3d printed gears (motor can be placed centrally) in order to decrease not-printed parts.
Finally, if higher print speed are a goal (or if you want a cool-looking enclosure to display the printer in your living room) you could mount it in an Ikea EKET cube. It would increase rigity and look VERY cool.
yes these are awesome ideas! and would be cool to see!
Really great work!!
Nice little printer 😃. I don’t know if it works, but for the cooling you could try a flexible tube to direct the cooling.
My thought exactly. I believe this would work well!
I have had the parts to try this for 2 years now, too lazy to install it.
It's interesting to see how much this is PLA but just enough is using more stable/sturdy rails and screws: basically, the printed parts appear to be tensile in nature.
If this had a heated bed, I wonder if there'd be interesting stresses in the plastic frame parts. I'm thinking you'd want the rails to only really attach in the middle of the edges of the frame to minimize frame warping. Of course, it'd best be made out of something better able to tolerate heat than a PLA variant. It'd also require some consideration for the width between the mount points, too, as the rails along Y (calling it that to differentiate, and typically bed-slingers use that orientation) may shift dimensions along X, causing some interesting things for the stresses that may skew things. At minimum, I'd expect such a printed printer to perhaps degrade over time if not accounted for. The X rail crossbar helps keep the dimensional accuracy within the realm of metal coefficient of expansion, regardless of what the plastic does.
Did you print this on the Bambu to get it printed very fast?
yes I printed on my X1 and the frames take about 3 hours but I print had half speed so it's not much faster than a normal print
Could you please upscale this for printing on a larger 300 x 300mm printer?
Current Linear rail size would be plenty big.
I'd go with 10-12mm Z rods though.
there is already a mod on the discord for 10mm rods, more will be coming I am sure
You need to start selling kits and instruction/documentation. Your stuff is amazing!
thank you!
Thanks this realy is awesome. Please for us less tech savy people make a video on the setup of the MB and how you are sending STL files to the MB. What slicer and settings are you using for the printer.
I will make a video on that
Compliment, this is an awesome build!
I'm designing own printers as well and really like yours! Awesome work!
Nice design i might try to modify it for 2020 extrusions and make it bigger
I love it! Maybe a summer project for myself?
Go for it!
Space for the Board you can put it at the bottom or put the PSU bellow there
else Backpack it like the annex K3 does :D
ya I can for sure make a mount for the bottom of the frame
This could very well the build I'd like to do as introduction to core xy
Very cool printer. Bit of an Idea for part cooling fan, you can mount a fan to the back of the toolhead in the same way as ratrig does. Then you wouldn’t lose on print area i think.
I thought about the there is no room for the ducting unfortunately
What your doing is super cool!
Nice! Awesome work!! 👍
Congratulations! Looks nice. Maybe you can add side walls like Ultimaker
that would look cool!
You need some cross bracing, which should be easy to 3D print aswell. Nice job!
as time goes on maybe, because the frame is a single piece it's very rigid already
This is a great work, maybe there is a way to make parts fit in a way that they can be assambled for a bigger one, so it can print itself.
I have ideas!
You should totally sell hardware kits with optional electronics!
that would be cool
This is so cool. I want to make one
wow, I'm getting inspired. This is a pretty good kit if you ask me.
place benchy on plate with -45 or +45 angle (degree) so that X axis and Y Axis travels will be less time consuming
@@the-matrix-has-you yes that can help
wow that cool design
just love it! inspired me greatly. have all i need to build my own but the rails.. not a fan of them. thinking of using vslot instead with the small wheels, taking away a little of the all 3d printed idea. rods for x and y to maybe.. oh insperation how i have missed u!
Never thought I’d see the day where someone preferred v-wheels to a linear rail/rod solution, yet here we are lol
@@navi6463 mostly that i have a load of vslot to use and bad luck with rail in the past + cost.. i ended up using rods with drylin bearings tho.
Great Build. Could you please show some print quality sample. I'am considering building this.
I have some pictures on my discord of print quality. I will try and upload some pictures to the github
This is an awesome setup, I’d only there was some way to scale the size up so I could squeeze a little more print volume in
I would really like to make a 180x180 printable version of this but the frame gets so large.
@@Rolohaun yea I have an ender5 plus so I can print up to 350x350x400 so it would be perfect for this application.
I think i will build and tune this! I just love simple stuff.
Maybe check out my inverted delta on my channel which also shifts all the complexity from hotend, cooling, weight etc to only the construction of the bed.
Awesome man!
I'll check it out!
@@Rolohaun i would love to make the top and bottom frame of my printer as simple as yours but i did not have the time to refactor the construction.
If you're 3d printing the bed, then why not use the printer itself to do that? That way you know it will be parallel to the print head. Obviously print the frame on another machine, but use this one to put the final layers on. You could manually probe the bed to get a rough level and then have that compensation blended out within the first 10 layers or so. That way your final product would be level and flat (compared to the mechanical xy movement)
that would be cool for sure
It is awesome!
I wonder just how much you could squeeze out of the concept, specifically in terms of cost and print speed
me too!
Loving this!
Hey! Looks amazing. Its nice how much effort and thinking you put into this design. I think i'm gonna build one of these. BUT i would first like to see some quality / speed comparison prints. Because the prints shown in your videos are not "that" nice i think. I mean they look good, but for small parts, i would like to archive top quality when printing slow. I got a V2.4 and have everything i want, but for small parts, this machine could be a good option. Could you try to make a video with nice videos/photos of the prints, so we can clearly see the quality capacities? Thanks! Go on!
there are print quality photos on the github, I recommend download them to see better
I so wanna build one now
It's so cute I love it! I wonder how long the printer will hold up, I guess the frame will warp at some point.
if your printing PLA it will not warp there is not heat near the PLA. But of course it could be printed in ASA or ABS
Can you please advise on 3d printing CAD designed parts to fit together?
Do you apply clearance distance in your design and just print, or apply some positive/negative expansion in slicer?
Thanks
my designed have clearance built in 8.2mm for 8mm rods, 3.4mm for M4 bolts things like that
Wow. Very impressive. 👍
oh this is fucking adorable
Love it! How is the Z resistance to racking? I noticed you used short-length LMUU bearings. Especially with the whole Z-axis being printed, I would worry that it could wiggle too much and maybe even stick? Maybe three screws would be better?
3 would be better but adds cost. It works well and I get really nice prints. For a printer this size it pretty good
This is a cute printer! Could it be scaled a little if you have a 300x300 printer?
I don't see why not, you would probably just want to print the frame with more shells/infill to make it stronger to compensate for the longer span
Very nice Printer 👌
This is rad!
I’d be very interested in taking the electronics from my Ender 2 Pro and make this.
it does use sensorless homing so you may need to add endstops if your board does not support that
its REALLY COOL❤
i cant 3d print it (prusa mini& building a voron0.2), but ill attemt to cnc mill the frame from plywood and mount the parts some other way once i finish my 0.2 ill either build one or recycle my prusa mini
the lower frame can be milled as is , the bed carrier as well the top frame needs some mods, but nothing i cant do 🤷♂️
well see how this plays out
thank you check out my Rook 2020 also, it has a normal 2020 frame
wouldn't it be easy and better to design the outer profiles from 2020 profiles and print the corners where the guides go through? would give the whole thing more stability. so a mixture of your printer and a Voron V0.1.
there are alot of options for sure, hoping to see some cool designs
Awsome design man!! What’s the input shaper values?
right now they are a noisy 40k accel on X and Y haha
Are you sure this should be on 24v? Using server PSU with computer fans would be much cheapier to get. Anyway, great design as always.
I am using a 24v 6a ac adapter but it could run on other things I am sure
really good ideas, I've been wanting to design a little corexy that maximizes the printing area while minimizing the overall dimensions and this seems to do it perfectly. Also I had the printed frame idea in mind for a while but didn't have good ideas for the Z axis, this is really good and makes much more sense than what I had in mind. I might design my own someday with a higher focus on portability, thanks for sharing!
NGL, I started designing a 3d printer similar in principle a few months ago, but it is nowhere near as close to done as this is.