just installed this kit on my DI. The video was great at explaining how the kit works and made fitting it easier. Just a quick one, what is the right set up (spool up rate and max boost) to lower egts, and whats a good setup for fuel economy for a DI? Cheers.
Thanks mate, generally speaking as I have advised on the video will give the best results. Where it gets a little tricky is with your model (DI specific) they can have a habit of going into limp mode if the spool rate or peak boost is set too high. Usually you’ll need to slow the spool rate down, and keep peak boost below 16-17psi to keep it happy. But each car is slightly different. Of course a remap will resolve this issue and allow the boost settings to be raised.
Hey mate. Awesome video. Bit further down the line now but just curious wether putting a Tillich valve in and running 18-20psi needs a tune or wether the map sensor can work out the fuel itself? Not in a rush for a response but many thanks when you see this
Recently had a tilix valve installed, didn't like it, so changed the needle valve around a bit,.my question is.. what's to hot for egts ? Driving at 110 etc. When climbing can peak at 500 not towing, havnt tried towing yet.. is that too hot? Will adjusting the spool rate down fix that ? Thanks!
On a crd, I’d say 600c in the dump is the safe limit, for a Di I’d say 500c. To help reduce egts, you either need to increase air volume (more boost, larger turbo, or denser air, IE better Intercooler) or reduce fuel to limits temps. Reducing fuel will obviously reduce power.
Anyone who knows me knows I have little time for Tillix/Dawes valve setup and the Vac actuators. I like the simpler Boost actuators, set and forget. Not looking to argue anything on that matter. What I am looking at though is the idea of 20+PSI on a stock snail and what the turbine drive pressures are going like considering the snail is getting well out of it's efficiency. The stocky TMIC and no fan not doing much cooling, throw a good FMIC and see how the turbo handles the extra flow when the IC is cooling boost charge to ambient temps.
At 23PSI EMP is pushing past 35psi. the hotter and harder you push them, the higher the EMP ratio grows. We like keeping them around that 20-21psi mark as it really is the limit of the stock turbo. the stock turbos are honestly too small for these engines, look at the YD25, it has a 4mm larger comp and turbine wheel then the Zd30, which is a 25% smaller capacity motor. We have had customers modify and fit YD25 turbos onto the zd30 with great results, the motor makes more power/torque at the same 20-22psi and holds power/torque higher in the rev range. That's directly related to the larger turbine flowing more air and allowing the engine to produce torque through the rev range from reduced EMP. If you've ever rung our shop, or seen my comments online, I'm a massive advocate for a good FMIC, the shear access to fresh ambient airflow cant be matched, even with a massive top mount. That and the main goal of our intercooler is to remove heat from the charge air via ambient air flow, the colder that ambient airflow is or the bigger then temp difference between ambient and charge temps is , the better it will transfer the heat. It simply doesn't make sense to mount that intercooler inside a hot engine bay. FMIC FTW
Hi mate, Thanks again for your illustrative videos. I am about to instal the Tillix kit and I do not have the opportunity to get a Dino to check Nos. I just have a boost gauge installed and now the patrol is giving around 14-15 psi. Standard intercooler. Can you please give me a tip if it is alright to use the boost gauge reading to check the boost to set up the tillix at the right point I want… 16psi. No more than that as I am just looking for reliability and reduce a bit fuel consumption. After I have this set up I will install a Top HPd intercooler (300x600) with fan. Then repeat the process again to set up the boost. What would be the high boost 19psi? With the new intercooler? Thanks in advance for your help and tips.
I already installed The egr plate and I left the intake manifold removing the line from the solenoid and now is full opened. I could see a bit of improvement this weekend on performance and fuel consultation that drop one litre per 100. Better than nothing. Thanks again for your tips
Yep using a boost gauge is totally fine mate. We are essentially doing the same thing, it’s just the map sensor on the dyno. Some can have limp mode issues if above 18psi. So I’d stick to around 16-17psi. Or you can go above this, but if your experience limp mode, then at least you’ll know where your limit is.
Hey man, have you come across any crd zd30s with boost controlled waste gate style set ups, like the turbo smart ones? Reason I ask is I have one and with a 20psi spring it only actually pushes 17-18psi max, and when it had vac operated control it would spike at 25 etc. Any ideas? Cheers! And I’m loving the zd content
If your wanting to increase boost, you may need to add a “Boost Tee” this will bleed a bit of boost away from the actuator. Resulting in it producing a few more psi depending how you adjust it.
Well executed and great explanation of the multiple parameters involved in acieving a safe retune to a specific driving application. If you were in NSW I'd book my car in tomorrow! Highway driving (getting there) is totally different to 4WD destination driving, but we do both on a trip. As a ZD30 CRD owner, I'm interested in how you pulled the AFRs down at highway revs; I have a cooling problem I'm trying to solve that only happens in highway driving conditions. Did you achive that through the ECU tune alone? Can the Tillix kit affect that (lower AFR at higher revs) without the ECU tune?
Appreciate the comment mate. These engines have a very good cooling system, if your struggling with engine coolant temps i suggest checking/ replacing in this order. First off is the radiator, these are very common to clog up internally over the years. We see it a few times a month, you can remove the rad and have the end tanks removed and rodded, or simply replace it with a Koyorad or Atrad/genuine. No need for big alloy or anything special. next is to check your fan hub is engaging, even at Highway speeds, if coolant temps climb, the fan will engage and help pull air through the rad. After you have done and checked both of these, swapping out the Thermostat for a TB48 genuine item will drop your running temps 5-8C. we usually don't like doing this first, as it can be band aiding a more serious issue. with our cars getting bigger and heavier, plus when tuned can sometimes be making 2-3 times factory power, the TB48 stat is a great simple mod that helps drop coolants temps nd keep them there. last is your water pump, giving these vehicles are getting older and older now, we have seen some water pumps beginning to fail. We have had our own 260+hp zd30's with stock fan, stock rad, tb48 stat, three trans coolers, factory steering cooler, and a 600/300/100mm front mount all in front of the rad, on 35.s and weighing in around 3.7t, and it never gave us issues with coolant temps. So there is no real reason why a zd30 should ever run hot if the cooling system is in working order. Now the second part of that is boost control and tuning, we spend a lot of time working on the tune at part throttle, we know where in the fuel map 90% of these vehicles will sit. So with some specific tuning and a little extra boost, they should sit nice and cool EGT wise on the highway. obviously every vehicle is different and the set up/tuning needs to be dialed in for each vehicle and its intended use.
@@boostedsagas884 Wow! What a great reply! Thanks for the info & time taken to pen it. I pick up my 2015 Trol today having had the pump, thermo & radiator replaced plus I've reconditioned the viscous hub and removed my spotties from the bar. We'll see how it goes. BTW I laughed when you dropped the Tillix ball valve into the engine bay....I must have about 15 nuts & scews I've never recovered while modding my electrics!
@@robpye5253 hope it’s all sorted for ya mate, and like I said, if you want to lower those temps a little further, have a go at that TB48 stat, it’s a great mod. Hahah yeah, that’s a daily struggle for me.
What is the main difference between tuning a ZD30DI vs a CRD? I have a DI with all the bits and pieces to keep the grenade safe (front mount IC, catch can, lift pump, tilix valves) just need a ECU tune now and see if I can get a couple more ponies.
Basically ecu and the fuel system. DI run a Vp44 Bosch pump and mechanical injecotrs. The CRD runs a Bosch pump and electronically fired injectors. The crd stock has far more potential in the fuel system for power. There good for around 200hp with a bigger turbo and all your supporting mods. Compared to the Di which will only make around 120hp on stock injecotrs. With a turbo and upgraded injectors though, they can easily make 200hp.
Do you mean positive pressure actuators? Or an actual boost pressure relief valve? The positive pressure actuators are ok, but more of a pain to adjust and set up for spool rate, as it requires the threaded rod to be removed from VNT arm and the preload adjusted. (Which most people won’t do) Tillix system is much easier as it’s just a matter of turning the dial and you done. If you mean an actual boost pressure relief valve to vent excess it an overboost situation, not a fan. You should resolve the overboost not add a band aid. Iv seen a few relief valves fitted by Mike Vine back in the day. Most of which where leaking when they came into our shop. We remove them all.
@@boostedsagas884 What a sweet bit of kit! Epic fast spool rate with no delay or pause like the stock controller was doing. Now easily getting 19-20 psi and will hold all the way through. Insane difference cheers!
Yes you can, but these and either engine also have a bad habit of cracking the egr pipes. So if the egr is turned off, it can be fully blocked and removed. For off road purposes of course.
The basic operation of the Tillix is the same regardless of which vehicle or engine it’s fitted to. So assuming you fit it correctly to your vehicle, it will operate exactly like it should.
I'm watching this again coz I'm working on mine atm. 1. why do you remove the dampener and not use it at the vacume pump ? 2. the back of my Dawes is my reference but I have a T going to boost guage also . is this wrong ?
I find the “dampener” makes no difference, it’s just a piece of foam in there. More like a filter then anything else. It’s “ok” to tee off there for you’re boost gauge, just be mindful it will probably show more boost bounce due to this though. As your measuring the boost build up in the line, then as the Dawes opens and closes to control boost pressure, you’ll be seeing these fluctuations. Solenoid needs to remained plugged into the wiring harness on crd or they go into limp mode. You can delete these, search Boost solenoid resistor mod for zd30’s. Clean air source for the needle valve goes directly to air intake pipe.
@@boostedsagas884 can I try putting the dampener on the actuator vacume hose to reduce bounce before I go out n buy a lawn mower fuel filter for it ? .
16:16 you mention winding the needle valve at idle so the VNT arm drops and hovers, doesn’t matter how far I wind my valve in or out it doesn’t move the arm? Am I missing something, is my valve not working right, thanks
Trying spinning the needle valve around. They are a directional valve, the vacuum and arrow on the back has to point towards the motor, as in vacuum air flow gets pulled through the valve.
@@SirPixlGaming if it ain’t working, it ain’t fitted properly. Swap it and see. There a one way adjustable valve. Does the vnt arm drop when you disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator with the car idling?
@@SirPixlGaming did you flip the needle valve around and try it again? Take it off, can you blow through it with the adjuster wound fully out? Maybe it’s blocked.
Awesome video guys, well put together and explanation. Finally someone who knows and understands the ZD30s has done a decent video on this subject. Great work!! Just quickly, you can gain 40hp at the wheels with just a Tillix? So if a tune is done, (say 60hp) and a Tillix is fitted (40hp)... a 100hp gain is capable just with these two done? More vids on the ZD30s please.. Cheers 👍
What sort of boost do i want to see out of my dead stock zd30 crd just by fitting this tillix kit without having ecu remapped straight away? i have heard 16-18psi?? manual zd30crd
Yea I would start there mate. Some can take more, so if your comfortable adjusting the system, you can aim for 18-20psi, and see how it goes. If it goes into limp mode, it will loose power and you’ll need to cycle the key off and back on to clear limp mode away. This often won’t bring the engine light on, though you’ll feel it. If it happens, drop boost back down a psi or so until it goes away. Usually 15-17psi is safe to avoid limp mode.
@@boostedsagas884 i fitted it and have since had it tuned the tuners werent sure on condition of clutch no idea whats in it so they set boost for 19psi and we ended up with 377rwnm and 129rwhp big upgrade from 14psi with 76rwhp ans 210rwnm
They can be fitted with a Unichip, or uve the factory ecu remapped. We can do the Unichip, but bang for buck, the remap will beat it hands down. And unfortunately we don’t remap the Di version.
@@boostedsagas884 great video mate. What is the unichip like for a crd zd30? I'd love to bring it to you for a tune but living in Adelaide it's not going to happen for a while and I can't seem to find anyone that specialises on zd30s in Adelaide.
@@donlindner8917 we use Alpha Techs for the CRD variety mate. Gets the results we want. Hmmmm, can’t say I know of anyone down that way either bud I’m sorry.
@@boostedsagas884 thanks for your response 👍. Yeah unfortunately adelaide is a bit backwards 😕 I definitely want to get the alphatech set-up, I tow daily and although when the gu feels great to drive unhitched once I put 1.5 ton behind it I just feel like it's at its limit. Is there any way of reading afr's from the ecu? Or do you have to place a sensor in when you tune it? I've got a tillex and cc top mount but would love to know what afr's I have. Cheers
@@donlindner8917 nah mate, no AFR meter fitted from factory. Yes we use external probe while tuning. EGT’s is the easiest way to monitor what’s going on from the owner side of things mate.
I have set it up on my triton 2.5 (4D56) and yes I get smoother quicker boost but my egt's have gone through the roof as well. I cannot adjust it to run without high egt. And I followed the video perfectly except for the actuator part because on a Triton the actuator is upside down, so fully down is full boost.
With a decent aftermarket ECU (piggyback) you don't need these at all, the boost (and fuel) is controlled via the ECU and the resulting power/torque is way better. A piggyback ECU does cost, but is eminently worth it; mine has been in for 13 years.
You don’t even need a piggy back ecu, it can be all done through the factory ecu. Though with these vehicles getting some age under their belt now, We see a few factory solenoids failing. These are a good option for those who want to take control of the boost, away from the ecu. It’s always advised regardless which way you go to have a good quality boost gauge for monitoring the boost levels. We have tuned many vehicles via piggy back and factory ecu with the factory solenoid, if it’s in good working order.
@@boostedsagas884 I'm aware of that, but I'm not really a fan of main ECU remapping. I guess it's because I've been doing aftermarket ECU programming for so many years that it's something I feel more comfortable with doing. But if remapping or installing a piggyback ECU, you can control boost at all engine load and rev points, so I think a Dawes valve is limiting and superfluous.
Not usually ideal. Some instances you could get away with it, on large lazy turbos as they won’t choke the exhaust as much. But generally speaking, no. Use the needle valve as it’s part of the kit.
Measurements for what? You can’t set the valves at a certain length and hope they work. They are infinitely adjustable, and need to be set up specifically for each vehicle.
Similar but slower, di’s are more prone to over boost limp. So set it up like iv done, set peak boost at say 13-14psi, go for a good drive up some hills and see if it hits limp mode. If it does, you’ll need to slow the spool rate down. Or contact someone about doing a remap and deleting over boost. Probably the best thing you’ll do either way.
![Nissan Patrol Engines TD42 vs ZD30 - [ Why Do You Have One ? ]](/img/1.gif)
I just did mine yesterday, going to make some changes now. Thanks for doing this makes it a lot easier to understand what is happening. Great work!
Glad it could help mate.
Great video. Really helped explain everything clearly. Thank you!
Awesome video keep up the crd patrols especially if you get one with the works 😉
That's the plan! got one coming up shortly.
just installed this kit on my DI. The video was great at explaining how the kit works and made fitting it easier. Just a quick one, what is the right set up (spool up rate and max boost) to lower egts, and whats a good setup for fuel economy for a DI? Cheers.
Thanks mate, generally speaking as I have advised on the video will give the best results. Where it gets a little tricky is with your model (DI specific) they can have a habit of going into limp mode if the spool rate or peak boost is set too high. Usually you’ll need to slow the spool rate down, and keep peak boost below 16-17psi to keep it happy. But each car is slightly different. Of course a remap will resolve this issue and allow the boost settings to be raised.
@@boostedsagas884 cheers mate. Appreciate it.
Just got a tillix and my ECU is on its way home from getting a remap cannot wait 🤟
Another great vid mate👍
Hey mate. Awesome video. Bit further down the line now but just curious wether putting a Tillich valve in and running 18-20psi needs a tune or wether the map sensor can work out the fuel itself? Not in a rush for a response but many thanks when you see this
Recently had a tilix valve installed, didn't like it, so changed the needle valve around a bit,.my question is.. what's to hot for egts ? Driving at 110 etc. When climbing can peak at 500 not towing, havnt tried towing yet.. is that too hot? Will adjusting the spool rate down fix that ?
Thanks!
On a crd, I’d say 600c in the dump is the safe limit, for a Di I’d say 500c. To help reduce egts, you either need to increase air volume (more boost, larger turbo, or denser air, IE better Intercooler) or reduce fuel to limits temps. Reducing fuel will obviously reduce power.
Anyone who knows me knows I have little time for Tillix/Dawes valve setup and the Vac actuators. I like the simpler Boost actuators, set and forget. Not looking to argue anything on that matter. What I am looking at though is the idea of 20+PSI on a stock snail and what the turbine drive pressures are going like considering the snail is getting well out of it's efficiency. The stocky TMIC and no fan not doing much cooling, throw a good FMIC and see how the turbo handles the extra flow when the IC is cooling boost charge to ambient temps.
At 23PSI EMP is pushing past 35psi. the hotter and harder you push them, the higher the EMP ratio grows. We like keeping them around that 20-21psi mark as it really is the limit of the stock turbo. the stock turbos are honestly too small for these engines, look at the YD25, it has a 4mm larger comp and turbine wheel then the Zd30, which is a 25% smaller capacity motor. We have had customers modify and fit YD25 turbos onto the zd30 with great results, the motor makes more power/torque at the same 20-22psi and holds power/torque higher in the rev range. That's directly related to the larger turbine flowing more air and allowing the engine to produce torque through the rev range from reduced EMP.
If you've ever rung our shop, or seen my comments online, I'm a massive advocate for a good FMIC, the shear access to fresh ambient airflow cant be matched, even with a massive top mount. That and the main goal of our intercooler is to remove heat from the charge air via ambient air flow, the colder that ambient airflow is or the bigger then temp difference between ambient and charge temps is , the better it will transfer the heat. It simply doesn't make sense to mount that intercooler inside a hot engine bay. FMIC FTW
Hi mate,
Thanks again for your illustrative videos. I am about to instal the Tillix kit and I do not have the opportunity to get a Dino to check Nos. I just have a boost gauge installed and now the patrol is giving around 14-15 psi. Standard intercooler.
Can you please give me a tip if it is alright to use the boost gauge reading to check the boost to set up the tillix at the right point I want… 16psi. No more than that as I am just looking for reliability and reduce a bit fuel consumption. After I have this set up I will install a Top HPd intercooler (300x600) with fan. Then repeat the process again to set up the boost. What would be the high boost 19psi? With the new intercooler? Thanks in advance for your help and tips.
I already installed The egr plate and I left the intake manifold removing the line from the solenoid and now is full opened. I could see a bit of improvement this weekend on performance and fuel consultation that drop one litre per 100. Better than nothing. Thanks again for your tips
Yep using a boost gauge is totally fine mate. We are essentially doing the same thing, it’s just the map sensor on the dyno. Some can have limp mode issues if above 18psi. So I’d stick to around 16-17psi. Or you can go above this, but if your experience limp mode, then at least you’ll know where your limit is.
@@boostedsagas884 thanks for the recommendation. Also Tillix reps didn’t recommend me go over 17 psi.
All up and running. Happy days
Hey man, have you come across any crd zd30s with boost controlled waste gate style set ups, like the turbo smart ones?
Reason I ask is I have one and with a 20psi spring it only actually pushes 17-18psi max, and when it had vac operated control it would spike at 25 etc.
Any ideas? Cheers! And I’m loving the zd content
If your wanting to increase boost, you may need to add a “Boost Tee” this will bleed a bit of boost away from the actuator. Resulting in it producing a few more psi depending how you adjust it.
Well executed and great explanation of the multiple parameters involved in acieving a safe retune to a specific driving application. If you were in NSW I'd book my car in tomorrow! Highway driving (getting there) is totally different to 4WD destination driving, but we do both on a trip. As a ZD30 CRD owner, I'm interested in how you pulled the AFRs down at highway revs; I have a cooling problem I'm trying to solve that only happens in highway driving conditions. Did you achive that through the ECU tune alone? Can the Tillix kit affect that (lower AFR at higher revs) without the ECU tune?
Appreciate the comment mate. These engines have a very good cooling system, if your struggling with engine coolant temps i suggest checking/ replacing in this order. First off is the radiator, these are very common to clog up internally over the years. We see it a few times a month, you can remove the rad and have the end tanks removed and rodded, or simply replace it with a Koyorad or Atrad/genuine. No need for big alloy or anything special. next is to check your fan hub is engaging, even at Highway speeds, if coolant temps climb, the fan will engage and help pull air through the rad. After you have done and checked both of these, swapping out the Thermostat for a TB48 genuine item will drop your running temps 5-8C. we usually don't like doing this first, as it can be band aiding a more serious issue. with our cars getting bigger and heavier, plus when tuned can sometimes be making 2-3 times factory power, the TB48 stat is a great simple mod that helps drop coolants temps nd keep them there. last is your water pump, giving these vehicles are getting older and older now, we have seen some water pumps beginning to fail. We have had our own 260+hp zd30's with stock fan, stock rad, tb48 stat, three trans coolers, factory steering cooler, and a 600/300/100mm front mount all in front of the rad, on 35.s and weighing in around 3.7t, and it never gave us issues with coolant temps. So there is no real reason why a zd30 should ever run hot if the cooling system is in working order. Now the second part of that is boost control and tuning, we spend a lot of time working on the tune at part throttle, we know where in the fuel map 90% of these vehicles will sit. So with some specific tuning and a little extra boost, they should sit nice and cool EGT wise on the highway. obviously every vehicle is different and the set up/tuning needs to be dialed in for each vehicle and its intended use.
@@boostedsagas884 Wow! What a great reply! Thanks for the info & time taken to pen it. I pick up my 2015 Trol today having had the pump, thermo & radiator replaced plus I've reconditioned the viscous hub and removed my spotties from the bar. We'll see how it goes. BTW I laughed when you dropped the Tillix ball valve into the engine bay....I must have about 15 nuts & scews I've never recovered while modding my electrics!
@@robpye5253 hope it’s all sorted for ya mate, and like I said, if you want to lower those temps a little further, have a go at that TB48 stat, it’s a great mod.
Hahah yeah, that’s a daily struggle for me.
if i do this at home do i need to tune and get it on a dyno ?? plz reply asap
many thanks
What is the main difference between tuning a ZD30DI vs a CRD? I have a DI with all the bits and pieces to keep the grenade safe (front mount IC, catch can, lift pump, tilix valves) just need a ECU tune now and see if I can get a couple more ponies.
Basically ecu and the fuel system. DI run a Vp44 Bosch pump and mechanical injecotrs. The CRD runs a Bosch pump and electronically fired injectors. The crd stock has far more potential in the fuel system for power. There good for around 200hp with a bigger turbo and all your supporting mods. Compared to the Di which will only make around 120hp on stock injecotrs. With a turbo and upgraded injectors though, they can easily make 200hp.
Learned a lot from that video and how a Tillix works with a Gu Crd. What’s your opinion on boost pressure relief valves such as Diesel Smart sell ? 🍻
Do you mean positive pressure actuators? Or an actual boost pressure relief valve? The positive pressure actuators are ok, but more of a pain to adjust and set up for spool rate, as it requires the threaded rod to be removed from VNT arm and the preload adjusted. (Which most people won’t do) Tillix system is much easier as it’s just a matter of turning the dial and you done. If you mean an actual boost pressure relief valve to vent excess it an overboost situation, not a fan. You should resolve the overboost not add a band aid. Iv seen a few relief valves fitted by Mike Vine back in the day. Most of which where leaking when they came into our shop. We remove them all.
@@boostedsagas884 yes positive pressure .🍻
cheers mate just order the kit for our CRD!
Let us know how you go.
@@boostedsagas884 What a sweet bit of kit! Epic fast spool rate with no delay or pause like the stock controller was doing. Now easily getting 19-20 psi and will hold all the way through. Insane difference cheers!
Great video! Can’t you delete EGR when ECU Remapping? May be better than blocking it off?
Yes you can, but these and either engine also have a bad habit of cracking the egr pipes. So if the egr is turned off, it can be fully blocked and removed. For off road purposes of course.
I have a terrano/mistral the same zde0 engine. Is the process the same/similar? It's slightly laid out different
The basic operation of the Tillix is the same regardless of which vehicle or engine it’s fitted to. So assuming you fit it correctly to your vehicle, it will operate exactly like it should.
Do you have to block the egr to install one of these mate?
You don’t have to, you’ll still get benefits from the Tillix kit alone. Though it’s advised to fit the blanking plate at the same time.
I'm watching this again coz I'm working on mine atm. 1. why do you remove the dampener and not use it at the vacume pump ? 2. the back of my Dawes is my reference but I have a T going to boost guage also . is this wrong ?
Also did you leave the solenoid plugged in and run the fresh air thru it or something instead of plugging directly into the air intake pipe ??
I find the “dampener” makes no difference, it’s just a piece of foam in there. More like a filter then anything else. It’s “ok” to tee off there for you’re boost gauge, just be mindful it will probably show more boost bounce due to this though. As your measuring the boost build up in the line, then as the Dawes opens and closes to control boost pressure, you’ll be seeing these fluctuations.
Solenoid needs to remained plugged into the wiring harness on crd or they go into limp mode. You can delete these, search Boost solenoid resistor mod for zd30’s. Clean air source for the needle valve goes directly to air intake pipe.
@@boostedsagas884 can I try putting the dampener on the actuator vacume hose to reduce bounce before I go out n buy a lawn mower fuel filter for it ? .
Hey man, do you think it would be safe to set up tillix off boost valve alone?
Yeah it can defiantly be done. But you’ll get a better result with the needle valve. It’s why there sold together as a kit.
Are you able to adjust these yourself at home? No boost gauge, how am I able to see what boost in running? Will Nissan data scan work
It’s best to use a mechanical boost gauge.
Thenks,,,🥰🙏
👍👍
Thanks!
16:16 you mention winding the needle valve at idle so the VNT arm drops and hovers, doesn’t matter how far I wind my valve in or out it doesn’t move the arm? Am I missing something, is my valve not working right, thanks
Trying spinning the needle valve around. They are a directional valve, the vacuum and arrow on the back has to point towards the motor, as in vacuum air flow gets pulled through the valve.
@@boostedsagas884 hey mate thanks for the quick reply, it seems to be the right way, I can send you a video and photo if you like :)
@@SirPixlGaming if it ain’t working, it ain’t fitted properly. Swap it and see. There a one way adjustable valve. Does the vnt arm drop when you disconnect the vacuum hose from the actuator with the car idling?
@@boostedsagas884 yep it drops if I pull that hose off the actuator - so new spool rate valve you reckon?
@@SirPixlGaming did you flip the needle valve around and try it again? Take it off, can you blow through it with the adjuster wound fully out? Maybe it’s blocked.
Awesome video guys, well put together and explanation. Finally someone who knows and understands the ZD30s has done a decent video on this subject. Great work!!
Just quickly, you can gain 40hp at the wheels with just a Tillix?
So if a tune is done, (say 60hp) and a Tillix is fitted (40hp)... a 100hp gain is capable just with these two done?
More vids on the ZD30s please..
Cheers 👍
From memory I did a Tillix and tune in this video. That usually nets a 30-40hp increase, or 30-40% gains in power and torque.
What sort of boost do i want to see out of my dead stock zd30 crd just by fitting this tillix kit without having ecu remapped straight away? i have heard 16-18psi?? manual zd30crd
Yea I would start there mate. Some can take more, so if your comfortable adjusting the system, you can aim for 18-20psi, and see how it goes. If it goes into limp mode, it will loose power and you’ll need to cycle the key off and back on to clear limp mode away. This often won’t bring the engine light on, though you’ll feel it. If it happens, drop boost back down a psi or so until it goes away. Usually 15-17psi is safe to avoid limp mode.
@@boostedsagas884 i fitted it and have since had it tuned the tuners werent sure on condition of clutch no idea whats in it so they set boost for 19psi and we ended up with 377rwnm and 129rwhp big upgrade from 14psi with 76rwhp ans 210rwnm
What’s the vnt grub screw
Something that shouldn’t be adjusted unless you really know what your doing and are comfortable making changes in the turbo.
I have an 06 patrol last of the Di before the CRD. Wish I could get more power out of it as it lags a little haha
They can be fitted with a Unichip, or uve the factory ecu remapped. We can do the Unichip, but bang for buck, the remap will beat it hands down. And unfortunately we don’t remap the Di version.
@@boostedsagas884 great video mate. What is the unichip like for a crd zd30? I'd love to bring it to you for a tune but living in Adelaide it's not going to happen for a while and I can't seem to find anyone that specialises on zd30s in Adelaide.
@@donlindner8917 we use Alpha Techs for the CRD variety mate. Gets the results we want. Hmmmm, can’t say I know of anyone down that way either bud I’m sorry.
@@boostedsagas884 thanks for your response 👍. Yeah unfortunately adelaide is a bit backwards 😕
I definitely want to get the alphatech set-up, I tow daily and although when the gu feels great to drive unhitched once I put 1.5 ton behind it I just feel like it's at its limit.
Is there any way of reading afr's from the ecu? Or do you have to place a sensor in when you tune it? I've got a tillex and cc top mount but would love to know what afr's I have.
Cheers
@@donlindner8917 nah mate, no AFR meter fitted from factory. Yes we use external probe while tuning. EGT’s is the easiest way to monitor what’s going on from the owner side of things mate.
What does it cost set one up on the dyno?
There’s no real need for a dyno mate. Just set it up as I’v described in this video and your golden.
I have set it up on my triton 2.5 (4D56) and yes I get smoother quicker boost but my egt's have gone through the roof as well. I cannot adjust it to run without high egt. And I followed the video perfectly except for the actuator part because on a Triton the actuator is upside down, so fully down is full boost.
Is it normal for zd30 Di to go over boost and under boost.
Normal as in do they commonly do it, yes. Normal as in should they, no. Tune and manual boost controller will sort it out.
I installed a tillix boost controller now when it hit 20psi and cut out have to change gear
@@billytbro or, you could adjust your boost pressure lower to avoid limp mode.
With a decent aftermarket ECU (piggyback) you don't need these at all, the boost (and fuel) is controlled via the ECU and the resulting power/torque is way better. A piggyback ECU does cost, but is eminently worth it; mine has been in for 13 years.
You don’t even need a piggy back ecu, it can be all done through the factory ecu. Though with these vehicles getting some age under their belt now, We see a few factory solenoids failing. These are a good option for those who want to take control of the boost, away from the ecu. It’s always advised regardless which way you go to have a good quality boost gauge for monitoring the boost levels. We have tuned many vehicles via piggy back and factory ecu with the factory solenoid, if it’s in good working order.
@@boostedsagas884 I'm aware of that, but I'm not really a fan of main ECU remapping. I guess it's because I've been doing aftermarket ECU programming for so many years that it's something I feel more comfortable with doing. But if remapping or installing a piggyback ECU, you can control boost at all engine load and rev points, so I think a Dawes valve is limiting and superfluous.
Where is your shop located at?
Beerwah on the Sunshine Coast.
I thought so, i texted you yesterday but you don’t tune zd30 di
can i just install tillix valve without needle valve ?
Not usually ideal. Some instances you could get away with it, on large lazy turbos as they won’t choke the exhaust as much. But generally speaking, no. Use the needle valve as it’s part of the kit.
Wish I could get you to do mine..its the only zd30ddti in Bangladesh
Do you have any measurements
Measurements for what? You can’t set the valves at a certain length and hope they work. They are infinitely adjustable, and need to be set up specifically for each vehicle.
Hey mate just doing mine now but I have a DI is the needle valve set up still the same concept? Cheers
Similar but slower, di’s are more prone to over boost limp. So set it up like iv done, set peak boost at say 13-14psi, go for a good drive up some hills and see if it hits limp mode. If it does, you’ll need to slow the spool rate down. Or contact someone about doing a remap and deleting over boost. Probably the best thing you’ll do either way.