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Also, if the valve was broken and always closed, the biggest impact would be felt at higher rpm when the max airflow is trying to get through. ZD30 CRD will see about 18g/s (Mass Air Flow) at idle and about 150g/s at max RPM. If the valve was fully closed then the power and torque would be most affected at higher RPM. Your dyno results however show the higher RPM figures are unchanged. I suspect this is because the swirl valve closed as intended when the RPM increased. All was Woking as designed.

The higher torque in your dyno run is no doubt due to the higher boost. We need to ask, why is the boost higher? When the swirl valve is closed, it will hold back more pressure. The MAP (boost) sensor is in the intercooler well before the swirl valve so must see higher boost pressure when the valve is operating (the cylinder will obviously see lower pressure, but this isn't where your sensor/monitoring point is). The fact that your 2nd dyno run shows higher boost at the intercooler says that something else has significantly changed between runs to increase boost. This has resulted in the higher torque. You'll need more/cleaner runs to conclude if the swirl valve actually increase or decreases the torque.

Theory and reality are often two different things. In theory it’s supposed to help increase air speed and generate swirl in the chamber to better mix fuel at low rpm. And maybe that’s the case, how ever we see on patrols, Hilux’, Dmax’s, both power and torque increase virtually everywhere across the rev range at when the system is disabled. Maybe the system operates better at partial throttle, but then I’d expect a negative effect on fuel economy. And if that was the case, I’d have people kicking my door down about loosing them mileage from a tank. All I can comment on, is what we see on the dyno. And the feedback people have given us when doing it themselves at home.

I appreciate theory and reality offen differ, but that doesn't change the fact that the video offers a test and concludes the valve is broken when its operation exactly as Nissan designed it. Also glosses over the fact that the 2nd dyno run (the one with better torque) is run at higher boost which perfectly explains the higher torque. There is no possible way that closing the swirl valve would create higher boost at the MAP sensor (which is up stream of the valve). Clearly there is another factor at play. As others have suggested multiple runs with ONLY this change are needed. I agree that customers would be kicking your door down if it increased fuel usage. And I doubt it would. Given its only closed at low rpm/MAF flow you might be increasing air flow loss by 0.05psi whish would be indistinguishable in any mileage or dyno calcs.

It’s best to use a mechanical boost gauge.

These engines are direct injection.

Radiators and air to air intercoolers all relay on good airflow. It’s best not to put solid objects in front of them.

If you’re going to blank or turn off your egr, then it’s best to follow up with this mod.

Plenty of time to look around and enjoy the scenery while trying to reach the speed limit.

Maybe on the highway but off-road it seems to do all right. My son spent all day pulling his mates out of the mud in the Glass house mountains. Brought the old girl home with mud up to the windows.

Doubtful. Intercoolers remove intake air heat. Your engines cooling system and oiling system is more responsible for keeping the engine cool.

We don’t work on the ZD30 Di model, how ever yes, you can do similar upgrades and get a similar result. All diesels will benefit from these kind of mods.

Can’t say I ever what the AFR’s where like in this video, if you can’t afford a tune straight away, you can use two things. You’re eyes and a egt gauge. If you’re seeing soot out the tail pipe while it’s on boost, it’s too rich, if your egts are going north of 500c in the dump, it’s probably too rich also.

Got a couple of M57’s coming up, and have had a few OM606’s through.

This job start to finish, was north of 15K

North or 15k

North of 15k

North of 15k

North of 15k

The more heat we can remove before it enters the engine, the better. In certain vehicle, yes an upgraded cooler and clean tune will help keep egts in check, lower combustion temps, means less heat introduced into the block and head, and eventually into the cooling system. For a vehicle which as yours, with known issues, it’s tough to say whether it would be worth the effort or not. Performance wise, you’ll defiantly notice a difference, as far as cooling, I think it may only help if you actually had an issue.

@@boostedsagas884 That makes sense. Thanks for your quick reply. I'm interested in getting an upgraded aftermarket intercooler before tuning - I like the idea of cooling everything down and helping efficiency. One aftermarket intercooler claims 30% more surface area (slightly thicker than OEM), another claims to add a whopping 120% (it is over double the size of the standard cooler in width, so makes sense). I'm wondering if going for the 120% intercooler will have any negatives to be mindful of? Turbo lag? Assuming that I get a tune to optimise everything.

Correct, majority of vehicle don’t. It’s why it needs to be checked and cleaned, or bypassed completely if necessary.

If you have swirl flaps, you can check their operation. Bypass is necessary.

My pleasure!

Beerwah on the Sunshine Coast.

I thought so, i texted you yesterday but you don’t tune zd30 di

The A750’s require a HD valve body before even starting, then we suggest staying under 600-650nm. Specific tuning is required to help them survive, plus it’s never great to let them shift foot flat, or tow on big tunes.

If you chip doesn’t allow for boost to be increased, this will be your problem. When increasing fuel, we need to increase air volume. This is usually done by increasing boost pressure. On stock turbo, I’d be aiming for 18psi on a FTE. This vehicle was set up for towing and touring, hence it having 5 map select. The owner can choose which tune works best for his driving conditions.

@@boostedsagas884 thanks for your reply, much appreciated, that's the problem then, it stops at 15 psi on the gauge. Looks like a unichip and a turbo upgrade, as I love my fte hundy.

That’s literally exactly what we are doing here. If the system is operating normally, it’s not a big deal. But if the vac solenoids are faulty, you either need to replace and confirm everything is working correctly, or bypass and leave them open 24/7 as I do here.

Ideally bigger is better. More surface area you have, the better chance it can dissipate heat. Assuming you give it good access to cool fresh ambient airflow.

@@boostedsagas884 easy thank you very much also will bigger be fine with stock turbo ? I have a reckoned delica pump installed and am pushing 10 Psi but will probably up it with new intercooler