You are such a humble person. Your attitude, personality, humor, and humility, makes this channel so so so much better than it ever would be if someone else was on camera. Never ever ever change. RUclips is a better place with creators like you, in it.
Yeah this guy is one of like 3 or 4 quality channels I'm stuck rewatching him, summoningsalt and salmonella, and blue Jay everything else is clickbait, ad filled shit
@@sithyarael6807 yes he got a real heavy duty engine stand now ,,i own a similar stand only mine is about double the size ,,i can hang an 8V92 on mine ,,this is what's commonly called a builders stand ,,most generic engine stands are pretty much just for holding an engine and aren't really stable enough to work on even a medium size engine let alone a gigantic big block that weighs over 800 pounds fully dressed
The slowed “penetrator” nearly had me spitting out my drink. Between that and the loose juice I’m surprised RUclips hasn’t age restricted this BBC vid 😂. Excellent work as always
As an electrician with zero knowledge of engines and no desire to work on my own, I find these videos relaxing and entertaining. The in-depth knowledge of each engine and the step-by-step breakdown as well as occasional mental breakdown is perfect educational and comedic mix for me. Thank you for taking the time to put excellent content into this world regardless of whether I use the information or not.
So Yeah that is a 454 Tall Deck 4 Bolt Main Block Racers Love them and don't worry about the Rust They Gonna Bore it out any way the Crank looked to be cast but still a good Core rods mehh look at the Block Close where the Expantion Plug is Pushed Out for Cracks Nice Job young man
The tall deck block hasn't been used for decades, they were in the heavy duty trucks, not in any 3/4 or 1 ton. They had 4 rings on the pistons, hence the tall deck to make room.
I am glad that you finally got yourself an engine stand that won't kill you them little cheap stands work in a pinch but when you are working with a fully dressed engine it's best to be safe I did that kind of work for over 40yeaes and that is what I loved doing either taking it apart or putting it back together love your videos keep it up
The piston heads make for good paper weights. I actually have a brand new one for I don't know what motor on my shelf, got it for $1, so I was like why not.
Nothing more fun than ripping apart a big block Chevrolet! It’s good to see you finally started using “Skunk Piss” when you’ve got a lot of rust buildup! Don’t sell your skills short. I started in the truck shop in 1977 as an apprentice and in 18 months I had my full line journeyman’s ticket, and I have learned more from watching your videos than I could ever teach you. Keep up the good fight and I’ll see you again on the next one!
I just went through this exact same thing with a 440 Dodge. "Stored indoors". Not. It had more than 2 GALLONS of water in the crankcase. Like you, I also have a long piece of brass rod, but one thing I use more often on stubborn pistons and rods is a piece of hard copper tubing or water pipe. The pipe slips over the rod bolt, so it can't slip off, and the copper is soft enough that it won't damage the crankshaft journals.
After watching this I couldn't help but think about another video of a motor that was also flooded only in this case it was a big block Ford on a speed boat that went down in Lake Powell 30 years ago. Was in a hundred feet of water for 30 years then when the lake level dropped it was exposed above water for 2 years. Should be scrap. On the second day of working on it they fired it up and it ran pretty good. Couple weeks later it was back powering the same boat. I highly recommend watching it at a time when you can just sit back chill out while watching. The pleasant interaction among the guys working on it make it a really nice laid back way to spend half hour or so. It shot up to over a million views in a very short time. I don't know if it's possible to add link directly to it, I didn't even try but the channel is: Merlins Old School Garage. Name of the video is: Unbelieveable! The yellow submarine engine starts up after being under water for 30 years. Posted December 21, 2022 Anyone who has an interest in engine teardowns should find this interesting. It's pretty good.
Have you ever had an overheated engine where the oil pump strainer tube was made of plastic, melted and molten plastic went all through the oil system? Saw that on a VW engine recently. Was really difficult to take apart as everything was seized solid with the melted plastic - even the oil pump, balance shafts, everything!
have no seen that but i have seen some german engines that have been so hot the radiator and plastic coolant adapters melted and put plastic through the cooling systems.. why the germans cant stop making the worst plastic for cooling systems is beyond me....
@@CaptainSpadaro 2.0 TDI CR, 2011. Still have the oil pump impeller and a main bearing shell as souvenirs. The bores, cams and pistons were ok, but the head was cracked from the overheating, and crankshaft was ruined.
For stuff seized on studs I've found that a cheap $20 air hammer with a socket adapter bit will liquefy the rust and dirt holding whatever to the stud. Run the nut back onto it and then go at it with the air hammer in bursts of about 5-10 seconds. If possible wiggle things around or set the pry bar or a wedge to hold tension.
Man, that motor tried to beat you down. As you said, you won. But it fought you every inch of the way. There might have been 5 or 6 rotating or sliding surfaces that were not rusted. Little wonder you couldn't turn it over. I've watched you dismantle some pretty gnarly disasters and that was fun. This one was a grind.
Another thing we used to do was a length of aluminium thick wall tube to go on the bolts so you can beat the piston out without risking the crank, worked very well the tube got very sad looking but was cheap
New to the channel but have been binging a bit. Always stoked to see someone putting out great content with a consistent recipe. No influencer BS. Maybe that's a luxury of having a real business outside of RUclips... not beholden to the algorithm as much. Would love to see a Subaru FB25 as there are two in my household with oil consumption issues. Really fascinating stuff every video. Thanks for doin' what you do.
between the FB20 and 25 engines have fewer piston rings, subaru recommending very thin and runny 0w20 oil, and those engines being boxers, they just don't scrape oil off the cylinders very well, and eventually the rings and bores glaze up, letting oil easily squeeze up past the rings instead of clinging to the cylinder wall. the fix for my FB20 was switching to 5w30 oil and driving it like I stole it to break the glaze off the cylinders, although that's not as easy with a CVT car as it is with a manual transmission like mine has, since you really need high RPM under load.
Thanks Eric for another great teardown and for also redecorating my kitchen when you used the PENETRATOR!!! I spat my tea all over 🤣 as a British citizen I fund the BBC by paying a license fee and I'm certain I've never heard the PENETRATOR used well not before 9pm 🤣 keep up the good work and thanks for making Sunday mornings fun 😁🇬🇧
Oddly enough, the Fab Rats channel restored a engine from a boat that sank in Lake Mead. After 30 years at the bottom of the lake, I think it looked less rusty than that one. They got the engine running again and reunited the boat with the owner. Nice series to watch.
@Retired Bore technically, the corrosion process does pull the oxygen it needs from the water itself. But yes. Completely submerged in fresh water corrodes way slower than when exposed to air. A civil engineer from England actually measured and charted it long ago. It was reported in 1852 in Scientific American.
@@TheProjectHelpDesk Yep. When I toured the Naval Aviation museum in Pensacola some years back they had just fished a set of SBD wings out of Lake Michigan to use on a Dauntless they were restoring. Lot of Naval aviators did their carrier quals on the USS Sable and USS Wolverine, a pair of paddlewheel Lake boats that were converted to rudimentary flat tops and used for training during WW2. There's a fair number of crashed Navy planes at the bottom of Lake Michigan that restorers are hauling up from the depths. They usually come up in pretty good shape, considering.
I wonder if a big dunk tank of evaporust would free up a seized engine like this if left for a few days. That stuff is magical. That one had to have been underwater for some time. The good pistons were probably the ones with the valves all the way closed.
The evapo-rust would be worth more than the block. It might work but it doesn't always get in between seized threads, etc that are rusted closed. They have proper chemical dip tanks for cleaning up old engine parts, that's a better option.
@@johncoops6897 I know there is specialized equipment to treat parts. I was just wondering as an experiment of sorts to see if it could free it up. For the home diy people. In reality, you wouldn't need much evaporust if you had a thick wall plastic bag to soak it in, and another back to vacuum form that bag around the block. He actually has one of those parts cleaners that you mentioned.
@@squishy312 - I have been doing a lot of rust removal lately, in fact I just got back from doing a batch of tools and parts. Evapo-rust is incredibly expensive stuff and gets sort-of "used up" by the rust removal process, so dipping large rust objects could get very expensive. It also tends to create a gluggy black coating which is the converted (chelated rust. This can be wire brushed off the exterior of things, but it's not so great inside threads and previously moving parts. I guess that it would eventually creep in and convert the flaky rust that is binding parts together, but I've never had much luck with it on items that have completely rusted solid. For example, I found a huge crescent wrench that was accidently left in a garden bed for about 40 years, and I despite many evapo-rust sessions still haven't got the rusted solid turning knob thingy to move.
Your vids are like unwrapping presents on christmas as a child. And I cant' belive I got exited about some guy on youtube getting a new engine stand. :D
ya man dont sell yourself short iv been building and taking apart engines since i was 8 years old and im in my 60s now and you have torn apart more diffrint types and manufactures of engines than i have seen in my life allthough i mainly do classic stuff and hot rods i love this channel i git to see the insides of so meny engines here keep up the good work man
lots of work there. So glad to see the new engine stand with space between the floor supports which can allow for a drain tub. Every time I saw you using the old one, I was wishing for a support built to straddle the one major leg to hold the drain pain properly to hold the oils and other stuff.
Great job on a very tough disassembly! I was curious about how you would pull this off when I first saw the video title. I faced a similar situation with my BBC a few years ago. 4 quarts of water in the pan, several stuck valves, bent pushrods, nasty, rusty growth in several bores. What I learned was to chase down every spot of potential resistance to rotation and remove what I could to bend the odds as much as possible. Low hanging fruit first like the cleanest cylinders with the easiest access to rod bolts, etc. I think I got 4 pistons out but still no place to get serious leverage to turn it over. Finally hit me to put the flex plate on and hook into the teeth under one of the attachments of the engine stand with a great big pry bar. Worked out great and she finally budged. Machine work is all done but I've yet to put it back together. It will be a retirement project for my 60's full size Pontiac. That's right, here in Canada all those cars were built on Chevy platforms. The best of both worlds, Pontiac styling, Chevrolet engineering! Great video, thanks for sharing!
Great show , Man ! Can we ever see a quick cheap rebuild that was ever completed? ...maybe with just simple inventory parts that were replaced perhaps or maybe a quick story of someone who bought and rebuilt your teardown? Look forward to these videos , cool stuff
Never lose that humility. It doesn’t matter how long you have been working on cars it is still a learning game. New stuff coming out that is far beyond what you would normally do that you have to learn. But just like you said it is ALWAYS a good idea to listen to advise from someone who has a lot of knowledge. In some cases that knowledge is very hard fought an won. Then there are the ones who can think outside the box. They are very useful because they think of things that most wouldn’t even consider. And in most cases what they contribute is VERY USEFUL. Just because it sounds crazy doesn’t mean it won’t work. Learn to think around the problem not though it. Been doing this for 30 years an I will never consider myself a master mechanic because I am STILL LEARNING. It is very good that you can admit your failings on some things and you really don’t let some if it get you down an keep pushing on by figuring it out. Some can’t or won’t admit it an give up or bull through it. That’s where things can go bad. Keep your head. Slow an easy. Best way.
Big block Chevys are my favorite engine. that one looks rebuildable assuming the block passes a magnaflux test. i would be concerned because the freeze plugs pushing out. or it could have been over heated before blowing a head gasket. I have seen that push out freeze plugs too, but that has to be super-hot before that happens and usually hoses or radiators pop first. the crank should cleam up with a bead blast and a regrind. cam is junk though. heads could be rebuilt but may not be worth the cost. those are gen 5 heads and not fit anything uther than a gen 5 454 or 502 The coolant passages are different from Mark IV blocks and will leak coolant if installed on a mark IV. also, if you look at shot at 13:50 there is signs that the head gasket popped near one of the coolant passages and has a water and rust stain in the inside of the block/valley baffle in the block. the is the medium oval port head, it is bigger than the peanut port head, but smaller than the big oval ports of the early 70-80s. this head was designed for high velocity air flow and to make a boat load of torque. but runs out for room to breathe above 4000 RPM. its a great head for a gen 5 454 for a truck deigned for towing. but they are garbage for high performance engine in a car. at a minimum the will require new valves, new valve rotators (if it has them), springs, keepers, seals, and locks. not to mention a complete valve job and resurfacing. it looks like around $1500 in parts and machine work alone. i would pass on these since set of Edelbrock aluminum heads are not much more expensive and outperform these iron heads hands down. the only instance i would choose these heads is for a marine application since sea water destroys aluminum in not time. rods maybe salvageable assuming you didn't bend the big ends of the rods driving them out. everything else is junk.
4 bolt main 454 block is diffently worth money ,even if it has to have cylinder resleved,😊😊 heads can be reworked at a machine shop too ,and worth money too ,don't know about dat later model intake and plumbing stuff,but heads and block will get some nice chump change in bills ..
Took me back to my years as an apprentice at the local GM stealership. Some bloke brought his motorboat in (Powered by a single Mercruiser/GM 454) after it spent almost 2 years sunk in low water (beachfront house, the guy went overseas, didn't leave someone looking after property or boat). They tasked me with the disassembly and assessment of the damage done to the engine. Yup: rust was the name of the game. Needless to say: He bought a new engine and we threw the old one to the recycling bin. Great video, Eric
Anytime I see my favorite GM engine on its deathbed, I shed a tear or two. :( Anyway, I think the freeze plug issue might just be from freezing? You earned your pay on this tear down! Stay safe and healthy!
This isn't a big block that you would want to keep for anything anyway. This version of the big block is a piss poor foundation for a performance build.
We have one of those in a 97 c3500 dually commercial chassis. (Super heavy duty for real, like 4ton payload heavy) but the engine is great. 150 000 original Kms. Yes below 100 000 miles. Great truck. 5 speed NV4500 gearbox with PTO for the dump box. Next to no rust. Like southern USA no rust for a truck in the Canadian rust belt.
L29 block is a good one, and will take a .060 bore easily. The roller cam readiness is a hotrod bonus. The heads are great for upgrading old open chamber BBCs to add compression. Last one had been broken, sleeved, broken again. Rubble.
I had a 400 small block in a nova and I forgot to put in one of the intake bolts. It filled up with water from a circle sprinkler. I then took it from the nova and put it in a monte Carlo, thinking everything was good. Imagine my surprise when I fired it up, I had engine mayo! No joke, it emulsified. I drained the thing out and filled it up with wd40. Two gallons and about a half hour of cranking later, it ran better than when I first got it.
This is great to watch as you enjoy yourself as you work. I learn stuff every time I watch one of these videos. I'm over in the UK so seeing lots of different V8's being torn down is really interesting to watch. V8's don't seem to be anywhere as common over here so it's fun to see the carnage in these cores. As others have said you present yourself as a humble man and the "Ooo's" and "Ah's" as you find stuff really makes me smile.
I'm happy that you finally invested in a heavier duty engine stand. I was WAITING for the harbor freight stand to collapse. Josh I don't want you to get hurt by using inferior equipment.
@@lawnmowerdude Sorry sir I don't know who made it but at least it didn't volapse yet. I don't want to see anyone get hurt !!! Thank you for your comment sir, TMP from N.J.
one of the few engines you probably should've put oil IN before you tore it down.... a quart of marvel mystery oil, and they make a key that you can put down in the distributor hole and spin the pump with the drill... would've filled all those issue areas on the crank and cam with marvel and helped the rotating assembly spin a little.
If the floor is an issue we used to use old conveyor belt which was 1/2 inch thick made a work area from a few strips 12 ft or so square, nothing got broken even if it fell and it also saves your feet from the hard concrete, being so heavy it always laid flat,
I stumbled onto your channel several days ago and I have been binge watching your tear downs. You have become my favorite RUclips channel. Thank you for the journey. This looks like a flood car engine. I love the Chevy big blocks.
And now for a bit of sanity away from a mad and crazy world ❤ Thanks for posting this content, it is good for watching! Keep it up, and may there be many more to come!
Also, if it makes you feel any better, a few months ago I had to align a 2011 BMW X5 that hadn't been aligned in a long time (if ever). I had to get the outer tie rods as yellow as the sun, multiple times, before the inners would turn. I will never understand why BMW thinks the outer tie rod they use is a good one.
That brought back memories! Well done on your persistence and tenacity. Way, way back I had an Essex Ford V6 dumped in my bay looking like that. The boss just told me to see what I could do with it. Ended up bored to 3.0L from 2.5L(ish) and it's still running today in a friend's Capri 40years later. Obviously been overhauled in between but... I know you are a salvage guy but something like that would make a great apprentice project.
Hello Eric! I just fell upon the channel watching automotive repair videos and got hooked. I haven't read all the comments because I kinda get bored with it rather quickly lol. I wanted to let you know that while working in the machine shop decades ago, thinking it was 20 years maybe more ugh, I would run across marine engines that were left with water in them over the winter. Freeze plugs would pop but you should scrutinze the walls of the intake valley and piston bores also the walls outside the block really well. I would probably have it tested somehow with the magnet and powder or something similiar. There is probably something new out now that makes finding cracks easy. You have a new subsciber, thanks for the great video!
We came across a 305 SBC that was like this many years ago. We wound up rebuilding it since it was free to us ... had it machined .040 over on the cylinders and there was still some porosity in one of those cylinders - however the engine build was a success and served for a few years after. This block should be worth the rebuild effort if it has stock size cylinders.
Agreed, and it likely is completely stock, as the bearing he found was 2/96 GM standard size. Most likely no machine work has ever been done on anything in that engine.
I've never been a fan of the big block chevy. Looks like this one was severely over heated, poorly maintained, running water, no coolant and frozen like in the refrigerator low temperature frozen. Enjoyable watching you work and hearing your unbiased comments.
Loved this video. Had a family member with a Black Thunder 40 footer with twin 454's. A monster. Have you ever done one of those venerable old GM 3800's that will run 300,000 miles. I've had several of these. Would like to see what they look like inside.
3800 is a damn good engine ,, i have one in a boat ,,replaced a 4300 V6 with a supercharged 3800 out of a pontiac gran prix ,,it's just as fast and 200 pounds lighter and uses less fuel,,i got rid of all the extra BS and installed a radiator instead of the lake water cooling ,,gave a double benefit ,, i don't have to winterize my boat and it reduces my chances of carrying invasive species in my bilge water
@@mikehunntt5338 i know that one there , i have a 40 foot cabin cruiser i think it's a cris craft , i completely redid the entire thing including the engines which were actually chrysler 440s they got replaced with EFI 454s i like having a full bath and kitchen
That crank just needs a quick polish. Block is semi valuable, rods are ok, and it had to be flooded for along time, head gaskets didn't look blown to me. Or they ran water instead of antifreeze and it rusted a hole threw a passage in the head.
Here's a suggestion-if you are looking to save parts from damage for selling, remove the crankshaft first and then driving the pistons out. It might save the crankshaft main journal some damage. Maybe. Thanks for the video.
Should be done gooder parts on it. At least on the outside... EGR tube AND the dipstick tube??!! Go get a lottery ticket, STAT!! Those are the OEM intake gaskets. I'm dealing with the same style/materials on my 02 Buick Park Avenue. The gaskets look identical (on your engine, yours are in better shape). I was about 45 days away from the number 3 cylinder sucking the pink Danger Aid and acquiring Bendy Rod Syndrome.
It is so much easier once you see water has done that much rusting of the cylinders to take a drill and wire wheel the rough stuff out and then fill the cylinder with toilet bowl cleaner and I mean the high acid stuff that eats rust on contact.Then take compressed air and run around the piston to wall area so you can get a thin oil in there to make driving the pistons out easier.Ive torn apart many engines that have had water in them for years that way and it always works good.Of course you only go to that kind of trouble on something you hope to save.
If you get the chance, try the crushed coconut stuff. It's similar to the kitty litter, but works WAY better and cleans up easier as well! I was skeptical at first, but seeing is believing.
Man, you've got a cool local drug store. Edit: Your commentary is just as entertaining as the teardowns. I always get a great laugh or 20 out of these videos.
I am going to say it blew a head gasket, which is why it got pulled out. Then it just got rained on a lot too. The rust build up in the water galleries, was just neglect. It was bad enough to push out the welsh plug. Diven till it stopped
best you can do with a Mk IV is 511cid, a Ford 385 will go to 557cid. Hell even Mopar RB's will go to 541. Any BBC made after 1974 is a fucking boat anchor.
@@bjbeardse Ok buddy. I'm not sure I said anything about turning a 454 into anything other than a 454. Always been a good stock engine for towing, good power, decent economy, simple to work on, but boat anchor it is skippy
@@johncoops6897 ok, not seized rings. I meant that the rust in the piston rings was stopping them from going all the way "in", and the fact that they always got stuck at the same point near the top of the cylinder is consistent with hitting a wear ridge. Doesn't take much diameter reduction to get stuck if the rings can't move inwards.
My uncle had a Chevy pickup in the '70s with a 454 in it. Pretty sure it was a half-ton. He passed it down to my cousin, his oldest son who later passed it down to my other cousin, the youngest one. Anyway, the youngest one had it at the lake one day at top of a hill and for some reason, it came out of park and rolled into the water! You showing water damage on this brought that back up. My cousin HATES it when I mention that experience!!
Just wanted to say a huge thank you for all the hard work which you put into your videos for our enjoyment. I knew straight away you wouldn’t leave the cam shaft in place you just have to take it out and it’s for our enjoyment. Keep up the good work. 🇬🇧
It would be nice if you did a follow up to this video and let us know what parts you were able to save to re-sell and what they looked like after you cleaned them up
Good logical video enjoyed learning from you can you show us a top end rebuild on a 454 big block iv just bought a 26ft power boat with a 454 big block engine in her with a dubble pumper holly carb engine was seized but iv managed to free her up now so lots more videos on this engine please regards John in sydney Australia 😊
You are such a humble person. Your attitude, personality, humor, and humility, makes this channel so so so much better than it ever would be if someone else was on camera. Never ever ever change.
RUclips is a better place with creators like you, in it.
Yeah this guy is one of like 3 or 4 quality channels I'm stuck rewatching him, summoningsalt and salmonella, and blue Jay everything else is clickbait, ad filled shit
Found Eric’s mom’s account
Very well said. 💯
The only thing that disappoints me as an Australian is that he doesnt seem to realise that puller is also a bit of slang and innuendo
@@stephenw2992 At least he isn't rootin' for anybody.😘
with the new engine stand having a crank on it you should turn the heads flat so they won't slide and fall off when blue removes them
He finally got an engine stand for these heavy motors he tears down.
This right here is a good idea
@@sithyarael6807 yes he got a real heavy duty engine stand now ,,i own a similar stand only mine is about double the size ,,i can hang an 8V92 on mine ,,this is what's commonly called a builders stand ,,most generic engine stands are pretty much just for holding an engine and aren't really stable enough to work on even a medium size engine let alone a gigantic big block that weighs over 800 pounds fully dressed
@@wildcoyote34 so I guess you missed my comment about getting an engine stand that will hold the iron blocks.
Yeah, I don’t understand why he doesn’t use the crank to remove the heads
Man, I've been craving the BBC content for a while!!
😂😂
That’s what she said….
That dark chocolate bow tie 😂
😂😂😂😂
@@williamnolting9697 bbc oh yes
The slowed “penetrator” nearly had me spitting out my drink. Between that and the loose juice I’m surprised RUclips hasn’t age restricted this BBC vid 😂. Excellent work as always
As an electrician with zero knowledge of engines and no desire to work on my own, I find these videos relaxing and entertaining. The in-depth knowledge of each engine and the step-by-step breakdown as well as occasional mental breakdown is perfect educational and comedic mix for me. Thank you for taking the time to put excellent content into this world regardless of whether I use the information or not.
Penetrator voice a classic. Well done
So Yeah that is a 454 Tall Deck 4 Bolt Main Block Racers Love them and don't worry about the Rust They Gonna Bore it out any way the Crank looked to be cast but still a good Core rods mehh look at the Block Close where the Expantion Plug is Pushed Out for Cracks Nice Job young man
The tall deck block hasn't been used for decades, they were in the heavy duty trucks, not in any 3/4 or 1 ton. They had 4 rings on the pistons, hence the tall deck to make room.
I am glad that you finally got yourself an engine stand that won't kill you them little cheap stands work in a pinch but when you are working with a fully dressed engine it's best to be safe I did that kind of work for over 40yeaes and that is what I loved doing either taking it apart or putting it back together love your videos keep it up
You know I should have said that you need to do a big block Ford like a 429 or a 460
4 bolt blocks are ALWAYS desirable so this doesn't look too bad. Good core to rebuild.
Splay the mains
@@shadowopsairman1583 Better to do that with a 2 bolt block to start with.
Roller cam blocks are what people want and heads are good too.. Needs to be acid dipped and machined but these engines make really good power!
Watching someone else work their butt off while I’m having my morning coffee. Now that’s what I call a perfect Sunday morning! Thank you Eric!
That dipstick tube is definitely a keeper.
The piston heads make for good paper weights. I actually have a brand new one for I don't know what motor on my shelf, got it for $1, so I was like why not.
Nothing more fun than ripping apart a big block Chevrolet! It’s good to see you finally started using “Skunk Piss” when you’ve got a lot of rust buildup! Don’t sell your skills short. I started in the truck shop in 1977 as an apprentice and in 18 months I had my full line journeyman’s ticket, and I have learned more from watching your videos than I could ever teach you. Keep up the good fight and I’ll see you again on the next one!
cool story bro
I like that “we’re going to have to take this apart to get this apart”
I just went through this exact same thing with a 440 Dodge. "Stored indoors". Not. It had more than 2 GALLONS of water in the crankcase. Like you, I also have a long piece of brass rod, but one thing I use more often on stubborn pistons and rods is a piece of hard copper tubing or water pipe. The pipe slips over the rod bolt, so it can't slip off, and the copper is soft enough that it won't damage the crankshaft journals.
You were right Eric, that engine stand was at my local drug store right next to the Tums for $299.
If it’s possible maybe do a 8.1 vortec? Love to see it. Keep up the awesome work
Thanks! I’m always looking for an 8.1
Second!
3rd
yeah I'd also like to see an 8 liter tear down.
@@I_Do_Cars it looks like this 454 spent some time in the sea. Maybe it got Beached at high tide.
I love how the oil-pan is the size of an entire small engine.
After watching this I couldn't help but think about another video of a motor that was also flooded only in this case it was a big block Ford on a speed boat that went down in Lake Powell 30 years ago. Was in a hundred feet of water for 30 years then when the lake level dropped it was exposed above water for 2 years. Should be scrap.
On the second day of working on it they fired it up and it ran pretty good. Couple weeks later it was back powering the same boat.
I highly recommend watching it at a time when you can just sit back chill out while watching. The pleasant interaction among the guys working on it make it a really nice laid back way to spend half hour or so. It shot up to over a million views in a very short time.
I don't know if it's possible to add link directly to it, I didn't even try but the channel is:
Merlins Old School Garage.
Name of the video is: Unbelieveable! The yellow submarine engine starts up after being under water for 30 years.
Posted December 21, 2022
Anyone who has an interest in engine teardowns should find this interesting. It's pretty good.
Just started this episode and I’m breathing a sigh of relief that you’ve got a new engine stand.
I do like your quick and dirty honing technique. It certainly saves setting up the block on a table.
your evolving sense of humor the last year or two has been too great to watch
Whew! The struggle was real. Eric I have no idea how much time you spent on this tear down but that was some real commitment to finish. Thanks
Rapidly becoming one of my favourite channels.
I can't describe how much I love these teardowns.
Totally addicting.
Thanks soooo much!!!!
These videos never cease to amaze me. After a couple of years watching these videos, I can't look away.
It's just like watching fire. All the exact same synapses go into action.
Have you ever had an overheated engine where the oil pump strainer tube was made of plastic, melted and molten plastic went all through the oil system? Saw that on a VW engine recently. Was really difficult to take apart as everything was seized solid with the melted plastic - even the oil pump, balance shafts, everything!
That’s wild!
Le fuck? Which engine?
have no seen that but i have seen some german engines that have been so hot the radiator and plastic coolant adapters melted and put plastic through the cooling systems.. why the germans cant stop making the worst plastic for cooling systems is beyond me....
@@CaptainSpadaro 2.0 TDI CR, 2011. Still have the oil pump impeller and a main bearing shell as souvenirs. The bores, cams and pistons were ok, but the head was cracked from the overheating, and crankshaft was ruined.
@@simontist oof.
For stuff seized on studs I've found that a cheap $20 air hammer with a socket adapter bit will liquefy the rust and dirt holding whatever to the stud. Run the nut back onto it and then go at it with the air hammer in bursts of about 5-10 seconds. If possible wiggle things around or set the pry bar or a wedge to hold tension.
Man, that motor tried to beat you down. As you said, you won. But it fought you every inch of the way. There might have been 5 or 6 rotating or sliding surfaces that were not rusted. Little wonder you couldn't turn it over. I've watched you dismantle some pretty gnarly disasters and that was fun. This one was a grind.
Another thing we used to do was a length of aluminium thick wall tube to go on the bolts so you can beat the piston out without risking the crank, worked very well the tube got very sad looking but was cheap
New to the channel but have been binging a bit. Always stoked to see someone putting out great content with a consistent recipe. No influencer BS. Maybe that's a luxury of having a real business outside of RUclips... not beholden to the algorithm as much. Would love to see a Subaru FB25 as there are two in my household with oil consumption issues. Really fascinating stuff every video. Thanks for doin' what you do.
between the FB20 and 25 engines have fewer piston rings, subaru recommending very thin and runny 0w20 oil, and those engines being boxers, they just don't scrape oil off the cylinders very well, and eventually the rings and bores glaze up, letting oil easily squeeze up past the rings instead of clinging to the cylinder wall. the fix for my FB20 was switching to 5w30 oil and driving it like I stole it to break the glaze off the cylinders, although that's not as easy with a CVT car as it is with a manual transmission like mine has, since you really need high RPM under load.
Good job. I'm a old time car enthusiast and have done exactly what you did to get difficult engines apart. No one should give you bad comments.
Buying tools that make the job easier feels so good
Thanks Eric for another great teardown and for also redecorating my kitchen when you used the PENETRATOR!!! I spat my tea all over 🤣 as a British citizen I fund the BBC by paying a license fee and I'm certain I've never heard the PENETRATOR used well not before 9pm 🤣 keep up the good work and thanks for making Sunday mornings fun 😁🇬🇧
Oddly enough, the Fab Rats channel restored a engine from a boat that sank in Lake Mead. After 30 years at the bottom of the lake, I think it looked less rusty than that one. They got the engine running again and reunited the boat with the owner. Nice series to watch.
@Retired Bore technically, the corrosion process does pull the oxygen it needs from the water itself. But yes. Completely submerged in fresh water corrodes way slower than when exposed to air. A civil engineer from England actually measured and charted it long ago. It was reported in 1852 in Scientific American.
@@TheProjectHelpDesk Yep. When I toured the Naval Aviation museum in Pensacola some years back they had just fished a set of SBD wings out of Lake Michigan to use on a Dauntless they were restoring. Lot of Naval aviators did their carrier quals on the USS Sable and USS Wolverine, a pair of paddlewheel Lake boats that were converted to rudimentary flat tops and used for training during WW2. There's a fair number of crashed Navy planes at the bottom of Lake Michigan that restorers are hauling up from the depths. They usually come up in pretty good shape, considering.
@Retired Bore there is dissolved oxygen in water. That's what the fish use to breathe
As many times as we joke about "boat anchors", someone finally did it. Bravo.
I wonder if a big dunk tank of evaporust would free up a seized engine like this if left for a few days. That stuff is magical. That one had to have been underwater for some time. The good pistons were probably the ones with the valves all the way closed.
The evapo-rust would be worth more than the block. It might work but it doesn't always get in between seized threads, etc that are rusted closed. They have proper chemical dip tanks for cleaning up old engine parts, that's a better option.
@@johncoops6897 I know there is specialized equipment to treat parts. I was just wondering as an experiment of sorts to see if it could free it up. For the home diy people. In reality, you wouldn't need much evaporust if you had a thick wall plastic bag to soak it in, and another back to vacuum form that bag around the block. He actually has one of those parts cleaners that you mentioned.
@@squishy312 - I have been doing a lot of rust removal lately, in fact I just got back from doing a batch of tools and parts. Evapo-rust is incredibly expensive stuff and gets sort-of "used up" by the rust removal process, so dipping large rust objects could get very expensive.
It also tends to create a gluggy black coating which is the converted (chelated rust. This can be wire brushed off the exterior of things, but it's not so great inside threads and previously moving parts.
I guess that it would eventually creep in and convert the flaky rust that is binding parts together, but I've never had much luck with it on items that have completely rusted solid. For example, I found a huge crescent wrench that was accidently left in a garden bed for about 40 years, and I despite many evapo-rust sessions still haven't got the rusted solid turning knob thingy to move.
Your vids are like unwrapping presents on christmas as a child. And I cant' belive I got exited about some guy on youtube getting a new engine stand. :D
Draining the oil was so reminiscent of my numerous colonoscopy preps! 🤣
ya man dont sell yourself short iv been building and taking apart engines since i was 8 years old and im in my 60s now and you have torn apart more diffrint types and manufactures of engines than i have seen in my life allthough i mainly do classic stuff and hot rods i love this channel i git to see the insides of so meny engines here keep up the good work man
lots of work there. So glad to see the new engine stand with space between the floor supports which can allow for a drain tub. Every time I saw you using the old one, I was wishing for a support built to straddle the one major leg to hold the drain pain properly to hold the oils and other stuff.
saame
Great job on a very tough disassembly! I was curious about how you would pull this off when I first saw the video title. I faced a similar situation with my BBC a few years ago. 4 quarts of water in the pan, several stuck valves, bent pushrods, nasty, rusty growth in several bores. What I learned was to chase down every spot of potential resistance to rotation and remove what I could to bend the odds as much as possible. Low hanging fruit first like the cleanest cylinders with the easiest access to rod bolts, etc. I think I got 4 pistons out but still no place to get serious leverage to turn it over. Finally hit me to put the flex plate on and hook into the teeth under one of the attachments of the engine stand with a great big pry bar. Worked out great and she finally budged. Machine work is all done but I've yet to put it back together. It will be a retirement project for my 60's full size Pontiac. That's right, here in Canada all those cars were built on Chevy platforms. The best of both worlds, Pontiac styling, Chevrolet engineering! Great video, thanks for sharing!
Great show , Man ! Can we ever see a quick cheap rebuild that was ever completed? ...maybe with just simple inventory parts that were replaced perhaps or maybe a quick story of someone who bought and rebuilt your teardown? Look forward to these videos , cool stuff
Never lose that humility. It doesn’t matter how long you have been working on cars it is still a learning game. New stuff coming out that is far beyond what you would normally do that you have to learn. But just like you said it is ALWAYS a good idea to listen to advise from someone who has a lot of knowledge. In some cases that knowledge is very hard fought an won. Then there are the ones who can think outside the box. They are very useful because they think of things that most wouldn’t even consider. And in most cases what they contribute is VERY USEFUL. Just because it sounds crazy doesn’t mean it won’t work. Learn to think around the problem not though it. Been doing this for 30 years an I will never consider myself a master mechanic because I am STILL LEARNING. It is very good that you can admit your failings on some things and you really don’t let some if it get you down an keep pushing on by figuring it out. Some can’t or won’t admit it an give up or bull through it. That’s where things can go bad. Keep your head. Slow an easy. Best way.
Big block Chevys are my favorite engine. that one looks rebuildable assuming the block passes a magnaflux test. i would be concerned because the freeze plugs pushing out. or it could have been over heated before blowing a head gasket. I have seen that push out freeze plugs too, but that has to be super-hot before that happens and usually hoses or radiators pop first. the crank should cleam up with a bead blast and a regrind. cam is junk though. heads could be rebuilt but may not be worth the cost. those are gen 5 heads and not fit anything uther than a gen 5 454 or 502 The coolant passages are different from Mark IV blocks and will leak coolant if installed on a mark IV. also, if you look at shot at 13:50 there is signs that the head gasket popped near one of the coolant passages and has a water and rust stain in the inside of the block/valley baffle in the block. the is the medium oval port head, it is bigger than the peanut port head, but smaller than the big oval ports of the early 70-80s. this head was designed for high velocity air flow and to make a boat load of torque. but runs out for room to breathe above 4000 RPM. its a great head for a gen 5 454 for a truck deigned for towing. but they are garbage for high performance engine in a car. at a minimum the will require new valves, new valve rotators (if it has them), springs, keepers, seals, and locks. not to mention a complete valve job and resurfacing. it looks like around $1500 in parts and machine work alone. i would pass on these since set of Edelbrock aluminum heads are not much more expensive and outperform these iron heads hands down. the only instance i would choose these heads is for a marine application since sea water destroys aluminum in not time. rods maybe salvageable assuming you didn't bend the big ends of the rods driving them out. everything else is junk.
Watching your older work - is good insight for future work - Thanks.
4 bolt main 454 block is diffently worth money ,even if it has to have cylinder resleved,😊😊 heads can be reworked at a machine shop too ,and worth money too ,don't know about dat later model intake and plumbing stuff,but heads and block will get some nice chump change in bills ..
I'm not a professional mechanic but thoroughly enjoyed this. So interesting to watch the techniques for releasing stuck components. Great work.
I knew you were going to open with a BBC joke. And yet I still laughed. Thanks for the video as always.
5:22 - Sad orange stand, watching from a distance.
There were a ton of these old big blocks used in boats, maybe this was one that had sunk.
Took me back to my years as an apprentice at the local GM stealership. Some bloke brought his motorboat in (Powered by a single Mercruiser/GM 454) after it spent almost 2 years sunk in low water (beachfront house, the guy went overseas, didn't leave someone looking after property or boat). They tasked me with the disassembly and assessment of the damage done to the engine. Yup: rust was the name of the game. Needless to say: He bought a new engine and we threw the old one to the recycling bin. Great video, Eric
Anytime I see my favorite GM engine on its deathbed, I shed a tear or two. :(
Anyway, I think the freeze plug issue might just be from freezing?
You earned your pay on this tear down!
Stay safe and healthy!
This isn't a big block that you would want to keep for anything anyway. This version of the big block is a piss poor foundation for a performance build.
You must go to a lot of Chevy funerals these days.
We have one of those in a 97 c3500 dually commercial chassis. (Super heavy duty for real, like 4ton payload heavy) but the engine is great. 150 000 original Kms. Yes below 100 000 miles. Great truck. 5 speed NV4500 gearbox with PTO for the dump box. Next to no rust. Like southern USA no rust for a truck in the Canadian rust belt.
Gotta love all the “experts” telling this Man how to do his job, the job he’s obviously very successful at!🤣
You really held that BBC's EGR tube like you've done that your entire life.
"Excuse me, while I whip this out" Cleavon Little - Blazing Saddles
L29 block is a good one, and will take a .060 bore easily. The roller cam readiness is a hotrod bonus. The heads are great for upgrading old open chamber BBCs to add compression. Last one had been broken, sleeved, broken again. Rubble.
I had a 400 small block in a nova and I forgot to put in one of the intake bolts. It filled up with water from a circle sprinkler. I then took it from the nova and put it in a monte Carlo, thinking everything was good. Imagine my surprise when I fired it up, I had engine mayo! No joke, it emulsified. I drained the thing out and filled it up with wd40. Two gallons and about a half hour of cranking later, it ran better than when I first got it.
Legendary Chevy reliability! They put a second water pump in the oil pan to keep the rust watered. Very thoughtful design!
This is great to watch as you enjoy yourself as you work. I learn stuff every time I watch one of these videos. I'm over in the UK so seeing lots of different V8's being torn down is really interesting to watch. V8's don't seem to be anywhere as common over here so it's fun to see the carnage in these cores. As others have said you present yourself as a humble man and the "Ooo's" and "Ah's" as you find stuff really makes me smile.
I'm happy that you finally invested in a heavier duty engine stand. I was WAITING for the harbor freight stand to collapse. Josh I don't want you to get hurt by using inferior equipment.
Isn’t that new one also harbor freight?
@@lawnmowerdude Sorry sir I don't know who made it but at least it didn't volapse yet. I don't want to see anyone get hurt !!! Thank you for your comment sir, TMP from N.J.
@@lawnmowerdude Yes sir you were correct is was another harbor freight stand !!!
@Bill Romak ok excellent response sir , please enjoy the rest of your weekend 👍.
Your sound editing is leveling up. This is easily as good or better than any car show that was on Speed Network/Spike etc
one of the few engines you probably should've put oil IN before you tore it down.... a quart of marvel mystery oil, and they make a key that you can put down in the distributor hole and spin the pump with the drill... would've filled all those issue areas on the crank and cam with marvel and helped the rotating assembly spin a little.
That’s a great idea if I run across another in this situation!
Mic drop 🎤
If the floor is an issue we used to use old conveyor belt which was 1/2 inch thick made a work area from a few strips 12 ft or so square, nothing got broken even if it fell and it also saves your feet from the hard concrete, being so heavy it always laid flat,
Block may be good for the 496 treatment.
I stumbled onto your channel several days ago and I have been binge watching your tear downs. You have become my favorite RUclips channel. Thank you for the journey. This looks like a flood car engine. I love the Chevy big blocks.
I absolutely adore your humor. You are a smart man and a real Smart Ass! Just Sayin!
And now for a bit of sanity away from a mad and crazy world ❤
Thanks for posting this content, it is good for watching! Keep it up, and may there be many more to come!
Also, if it makes you feel any better, a few months ago I had to align a 2011 BMW X5 that hadn't been aligned in a long time (if ever). I had to get the outer tie rods as yellow as the sun, multiple times, before the inners would turn. I will never understand why BMW thinks the outer tie rod they use is a good one.
OMG. I have a 1997 K3500 (in really good shape, 4x4, 5-speed, 108,000 miles - beautiful truck). Thanks for this particular teardown!
99 GMC suburban 2500 w 250k 😂 2wd 4l80
Interesting that, as rusty as it was, the rings were all free. Love all of your vids, Eric!!
That brought back memories! Well done on your persistence and tenacity. Way, way back I had an Essex Ford V6 dumped in my bay looking like that. The boss just told me to see what I could do with it. Ended up bored to 3.0L from 2.5L(ish) and it's still running today in a friend's Capri 40years later. Obviously been overhauled in between but... I know you are a salvage guy but something like that would make a great apprentice project.
Love your videos, so informative and helped me get a better understanding of engine internals. :D
Hello Eric! I just fell upon the channel watching automotive repair videos and got hooked. I haven't read all the comments because I kinda get bored with it rather quickly lol. I wanted to let you know that while working in the machine shop decades ago, thinking it was 20 years maybe more ugh, I would run across marine engines that were left with water in them over the winter. Freeze plugs would pop but you should scrutinze the walls of the intake valley and piston bores also the walls outside the block really well. I would probably have it tested somehow with the magnet and powder or something similiar. There is probably something new out now that makes finding cracks easy. You have a new subsciber, thanks for the great video!
I like big blocks! I also like to see smaller engines torn down, like maybe an early 2000s VW 1.9 TDI?
Would be not easy to find. If the car is still drivable, the engine is still in use. Those engines are the best diesels VW ever made.
I am so amazed that you know every part on every engine you work on! I wish I could do this kind of work!
We came across a 305 SBC that was like this many years ago. We wound up rebuilding it since it was free to us ... had it machined .040 over on the cylinders and there was still some porosity in one of those cylinders - however the engine build was a success and served for a few years after. This block should be worth the rebuild effort if it has stock size cylinders.
Agreed, and it likely is completely stock, as the bearing he found was 2/96 GM standard size. Most likely no machine work has ever been done on anything in that engine.
I've never been a fan of the big block chevy. Looks like this one was severely over heated, poorly maintained, running water, no coolant and frozen like in the refrigerator low temperature frozen. Enjoyable watching you work and hearing your unbiased comments.
Loved this video. Had a family member with a Black Thunder 40 footer with twin 454's. A monster. Have you ever done one of those venerable old GM 3800's that will run 300,000 miles. I've had several of these. Would like to see what they look like inside.
3800 is a damn good engine ,, i have one in a boat ,,replaced a 4300 V6 with a supercharged 3800 out of a pontiac gran prix ,,it's just as fast and 200 pounds lighter and uses less fuel,,i got rid of all the extra BS and installed a radiator instead of the lake water cooling ,,gave a double benefit ,, i don't have to winterize my boat and it reduces my chances of carrying invasive species in my bilge water
That's about the condition my 454s in my searay were in when I got it I'd kill for a speed boat but I love my full kitchen shower and toilet lol
The 3800 is the best engine you yanks ever made got a couple of holdens with them gmh aussie
@@mikehunntt5338 i know that one there , i have a 40 foot cabin cruiser i think it's a cris craft , i completely redid the entire thing including the engines which were actually chrysler 440s they got replaced with EFI 454s i like having a full bath and kitchen
i guess this engine is still better than everything "Pole Barn Garage" put back together with old hardware :D
That crank just needs a quick polish.
Block is semi valuable, rods are ok, and it had to be flooded for along time, head gaskets didn't look blown to me. Or they ran water instead of antifreeze and it rusted a hole threw a passage in the head.
Here's a suggestion-if you are looking to save parts from damage for selling, remove the crankshaft first and then driving the pistons out. It might save the crankshaft main journal some damage. Maybe.
Thanks for the video.
Should be done gooder parts on it. At least on the outside...
EGR tube AND the dipstick tube??!! Go get a lottery ticket, STAT!!
Those are the OEM intake gaskets. I'm dealing with the same style/materials on my 02 Buick Park Avenue. The gaskets look identical (on your engine, yours are in better shape). I was about 45 days away from the number 3 cylinder sucking the pink Danger Aid and acquiring Bendy Rod Syndrome.
It is so much easier once you see water has done that much rusting of the cylinders to take a drill and wire wheel the rough stuff out and then fill the cylinder with toilet bowl cleaner and I mean the high acid stuff that eats rust on contact.Then take compressed air and run around the piston to wall area so you can get a thin oil in there to make driving the pistons out easier.Ive torn apart many engines that have had water in them for years that way and it always works good.Of course you only go to that kind of trouble on something you hope to save.
Eric, I tried out pig mat on a spill this week and like it more than paper towels and kitty litter.
That’s great! We never looked back after we made the switch
We call them diapers in the Military
If you get the chance, try the crushed coconut stuff. It's similar to the kitty litter, but works WAY better and cleans up easier as well! I was skeptical at first, but seeing is believing.
@@ReignitedAuto If I find it, I'll try it on coolant or pre-emptive fuel.
At the end he sums it up well: "I still feel like I won" -- nice job on a very badly rusted core. Awesome job!
Congrats on the new engine stand acquisition!
Thank you!
Love this Show. I am so used to dealing with aircraft engines. Don't have much time for auto engines. Cant wait to see ( BLUE ) in a museum. LOL 🤠😎
Man, you've got a cool local drug store.
Edit: Your commentary is just as entertaining as the teardowns. I always get a great laugh or 20 out of these videos.
I always love "Huh, that's in great shape" (*flings it across the shop*)
@mrz80 Yeah, that always gets me too 😆
I am going to say it blew a head gasket, which is why it got pulled out. Then it just got rained on a lot too. The rust build up in the water galleries, was just neglect. It was bad enough to push out the welsh plug. Diven till it stopped
Those heads are a bear to remove in the engine bay. So freaking heavy. I've always liked a 454. Had several over the years, take one over a 460.
best you can do with a Mk IV is 511cid, a Ford 385 will go to 557cid. Hell even Mopar RB's will go to 541. Any BBC made after 1974 is a fucking boat anchor.
@@bjbeardse oo
@@bjbeardse Ok buddy. I'm not sure I said anything about turning a 454 into anything other than a 454. Always been a good stock engine for towing, good power, decent economy, simple to work on, but boat anchor it is skippy
@@wconstructionco Note the distinction between MK IV and Gen5/6. THe newer engines are absolute junk. The earlier design is a great engine.
@@bjbeardse never any issues with my lt1 vortec 454s
I read comments. You are a smart man. Don't sell yourself short man.
Piston rings are seized and getting stuck on the wear ridge at top of cylinder. Ridge reamer would have helped a lot here!
Not one ring was seized in it's groove. It was RUST that had locked it up... didn't you notice any of that in the video?
@@johncoops6897 ok, not seized rings. I meant that the rust in the piston rings was stopping them from going all the way "in", and the fact that they always got stuck at the same point near the top of the cylinder is consistent with hitting a wear ridge. Doesn't take much diameter reduction to get stuck if the rings can't move inwards.
@@simontist - I reckon that the rust was a smaller diameter hole than the whole piston!
My uncle had a Chevy pickup in the '70s with a 454 in it. Pretty sure it was a half-ton. He passed it down to my cousin, his oldest son who later passed it down to my other cousin, the youngest one. Anyway, the youngest one had it at the lake one day at top of a hill and for some reason, it came out of park and rolled into the water! You showing water damage on this brought that back up. My cousin HATES it when I mention that experience!!
Mark 6 big block, no major damage, should be a good core for a rebuilder, looks llike it was poorly stored and got rained on.
The ability to breathe hot enough to break these things loose continues to amaze me
It's fascinating to me that there are so many push-rod engines still being made.
Simple design, tend to be very dependable and durable. The largest modern pushrod Gas is a 6.6L
@@shadowopsairman1583 no fords new 7.3
Simple and small.
@@lieutenantdan8170 🤢
Just wanted to say a huge thank you for all the hard work which you put into your videos for our enjoyment. I knew straight away you wouldn’t leave the cam shaft in place you just have to take it out and it’s for our enjoyment. Keep up the good work. 🇬🇧
It would be nice if you did a follow up to this video and let us know what parts you were able to save to re-sell and what they looked like after you cleaned them up
Good logical video enjoyed learning from you can you show us a top end rebuild on a 454 big block iv just bought a 26ft power boat with a 454 big block engine in her with a dubble pumper holly carb engine was seized but iv managed to free her up now so lots more videos on this engine please regards John in sydney Australia 😊
That block is worth money. They are hard to find for marine applications. Love the 4-bolt mains!