This is an EGR valve removal or sometimes known as a "Combi" valve. This was from a 2004 Audi A4 B6 1.8T Quattro. 5mm Hex 10mm socket Phillips/Flathead screwdrivers
Been there ... done that. Check Engine Light for secondary air improper flow. Replaced carboned-up combi, no more CEL, but SAI monitor refused to set. Replaced leaky solenoid vacuum control valve for the combi, monitor set in one 10 mile drive, passed California smog later that day.
Just one comment, be sure to be ready to catch the Gasket when you remove the last bolt. You don't want to have to fish around on the transmission to find it.
Change the Water Temp Sensor while you're at it (It lives underneath this valve) .cut my arms to pieces yesterday trying to do it without removing EGR and it's connecting pipes ;-)
Great DIY video. Your car had a hose (maybe 6-8 inches long) connected to the intake pipe....you unplugged it and left it connected to a small diameter hard pipe. From the video it looked like the hard pipe ran along with the pipe to the Kombi valve. What did this small diameter hard pipe connect to? It looks like another pipe runs along the back of the motor...where does this pipe end at?
I believe the small hose is there to release any pressure left over in the combi. And I'm pretty sure it goes from combi back to the intake manifold. Once I get home I'll let you know for sure. Cheers
Hi, thanks for the great video! Is it possible that oil leaks through the gasket (9:26) between combi valve and the engine block? It looks that i have a leak there. My valve cover gasket is new and clean, but I still have some oil under this valve near the engine wall at the seam where this gasket is located.
The EGR/Combi just has air going through it to help the car warm up. The leak points near that location that I can think of would be: *half moon gasket (under the cam chain tensioner), *cam chain tensioner gasket (hard metal gasket used with small amount of RTV), *valve cover gasket (at the half moon attached to the valve cover gasket), *cam chain tensioner solenoid (has an O-ring that gets hard and stops working, I have a video on this, takes a few minutes to check). The cam chain tensioner solenoid is easy to check and get out of the way, then move on to the half moons. I would check these, get a mirror behind the cam chain tensioner and check for small amounts of oil where the half moon gasket is. Let me know if you need anymore help/info, Cheers!
Thank you very much for the answer. I was thinking that this could be cam chain seals. I just successfully replaced valve cover gasket myself and now I'm afraid to do cam chain gaskets since it so easy to mess the timing of cam chain :(
Yeah cam chain tensioner can be tough. Never a fun job. I go the long way too and pull the intake cam to remove the tensioner so I can clean everything. Make sure to check around the tensioner half moon gasket before you start, you will see (a very small amount of) oil flowing over the side where the half moon sits (after you ran the car). This is kinda how I determine, although probably 70% of the time its tensioner gaskets leaking (they're just faulty all together). Good luck with it, any questions just ask, Cheers
Hi, I've gotten all the way up to removing the three screws off the combi valve but have trouble finding a tool to do the job. Can you tell me the specific name of the ratchet with the hex connection that you are using?
Sorry for the late response, here's the link, you can buy it at Lowes, the best mini ratchet ever made. Cheers! m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-24-Piece-Standard-SAE-and-Metric-Polished-Chrome-Mechanic-s-Tool-Set/3387782?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-MechanicsTools-_-3387782:Kobalt&CAWELAID=&kpid=3387782&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=2496&k_clickID=fca90137-87d6-4ab6-83a5-b6715ceda9c4&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlrr89afl2wIVzrXACh03-gNqEAQYFCABEgI3rvD_BwE
Hey I’m getting a p0411 code I know my secondary air pump is done it sounded horrible then now won’t even come on while cold. Do you think I would need to change the combi valve as well with the pump or changing the pump is enough?
In my opinion, this is sai pump. Check this pump or buy new one ;) i had same symphtoms but my pump is working (i have horrible sound too, but i dont have check engine error)
The small 3mm hose going into the combi valve, where does it go? On my car that hose is missing and won't pass emissions. Someone PLEASE tell me where it goes. I would really appreciate it.
Basic Auto maintenance, I believe it had two gaskets. One was block to combi, and another in between the two pieces of the combi you see in the video. Let me know if there's anything else, cheers!
The EGR is just for SAI. Which helps the car with cold starts. If the valve is stuck open, it will could possibly lead to a few issues. But I don't think it could cause the car to turn off. Is the power shutting off, or does it sound like it's not getting gas? How steady is it at idle? If you could get someone to hook the car up to vag-com, the car could tell you almost right where the problem is. I would almost say (as long as the electrical stays lit up like the cluster) it could be something like a fuel pump. You could rent a fuel pressure gauge or tap a flat head screw driver on the fuel rails test port. Run the car for a few seconds and turn off the car (to build up some pressure) then test the fuel rails port, it should have asked bit of pressure, if it just kinda speckles out, it's probably the pump. Let me know though if the electrical blinks our goes out when you driving. Could be a good few other things if that's the case. Let me kmow, cheers
Maybe your SAI is not working and it's absorbing all the gases from the EGR Valve that is not working and then your Intake may be absorbing that from the SAI. I had that problem my car would turn off while driving because my engine was absorbing a lot of dirty crap from the SAI, when I removed the SAI it was full of dirty shit then I checked the Intake filter and it was full of brown shit the MAF was also full of brown shit and I don't even want to mention the Intercooler....
@@ChristopherCameronAudiRepair Maybe your SAI is not working and it's absorbing all the gases from the EGR Valve that is not working and then your Intake may be absorbing that from the SAI. I had that problem my car would turn off while driving because my engine was absorbing a lot of dirty crap from the SAI, when I removed the SAI it was full of dirty shit then I checked the Intake filter and it was full of brown shit the MAF was also full of brown shit and I don't even want to mention the Intercooler....
Sorry for the very late reply. In case it didn't helps someone else, I'll post the answer. The check engine light came on, so I hooked up vag-com and it was throwing SAI codes. The EGR/combi is used just for letting air in and blocking itself once the car is warmed up. I was chasing the issue, an the EGR was the last place to check, SAI is a small easy system. My problem ended up being whoever rebuilt the engine put in a head with no air ports for the SAI. So the system was throwing codes to let me know air wasn't flowing correctly. Easy find, but a huge problem to fix. Hope this helps someone, Cheers
@@ChristopherCameronAudiRepair Ouch! I am debugging SAI right now on an AUG 1.8 engine. I verified that the pump does turn on, so my next steps are to check the pump output hose and the combi valve. I have a hand vacuum pump on loan/purchase from AutoZone, so I am starting with a few simple tests on the control side of the combi valve before digging in to replace it.
Christopher Cameron I thought the video was made quite well in all honesty, good content, good explanation, was just having you on there mate ;) I’m no better with my uhhms, much worse actually! Keep it up man :)
Dont use grips.... use an Allen key and cut it down if you have to. Also be very careful about scratching the metal trying to remove the old gasket, a razor blade is not recommended.
It's for secondary air injection system (warming up the car), it opens up to push air into the engine block (on start-up), and regulates exhaust fume direction (after start-up). If it is supposed to be there, you'll see the SAI code thrown in VCDS. A lot of people rip this out of there car instead of replacing/diagnosing. I have tried EBay " SAI relays" and nothing will clear the check engine other then fixing fault in the SAI. If anyone finds a work around let me know!
Yeah i just bought my audi and nothing theres. I scanned my car 3 codes 00561, mixture adjustment control, 16989, internal control module read only memory (EPROM) error B and code 01217, SRS driver airbag plug faulty. My car still goes good with these issues 🙂👍👍
Is that a B6, That air bag code is the plug under the seat. There is a write up to fix it in audizine, a audi certified fix too, plug pins get corroded and throw code. mixture adjustment, have you cleaned your throttle body and ran calibration (calibration through VCDS), could need to clean the MAF sensor too. EPROM error, all I could find is this real fast, I could take a look later once I'm home though. wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16989/P0605/001541 You could do all this stuff probably within an hour or two (doing the airbag fix takes the longest). Let me know how if you got any questions. Cheers!
It must not be. I have an 1997 a4 B5 and I just got the code P0401. So far my car hasnt ran any different. Ive only noticed increased fuel consumption. Is it okay to keep driving it like this? It still runs fine. Doesn't overheat idle rough or stall at stops. Thanks
Piotr Korkosz according to ecs tuning and a few other places, it's an EGR. I know this as a combi valve for SAI, however some people search (or know it as an)EGR valve. I don't believe it does any exhaust recirculation.
Been there ... done that. Check Engine Light for secondary air improper flow. Replaced carboned-up combi, no more CEL, but SAI monitor refused to set. Replaced leaky solenoid vacuum control valve for the combi, monitor set in one 10 mile drive, passed California smog later that day.
Right on! Thanks so much for posting. Followed for my 2003 Passat 1.8T. Worked great.
Happy to help Dave. Cheers!
To test the valve, disconnect the small control vacuum hose and apply vacuum directly there with a hand vacuum pump.
Just one comment, be sure to be ready to catch the Gasket when you remove the last bolt. You don't want to have to fish around on the transmission to find it.
5mm allen key. Cut/grind the short end shorter with a grinder so that it can fit on the upside down bolts. Voila. A "special tool"
Good vdo bro 👌🏼👍🏼🙏🏼 thanx a lot
Nice video! Thank you. I'll be right back
nice video
cheers mate
Change the Water Temp Sensor while you're at it (It lives underneath this valve) .cut my arms to pieces yesterday trying to do it without removing EGR and it's connecting pipes ;-)
Where is the location of egr a4 b7 model 2.0 tfsi
Great DIY video. Your car had a hose (maybe 6-8 inches long) connected to the intake pipe....you unplugged it and left it connected to a small diameter hard pipe. From the video it looked like the hard pipe ran along with the pipe to the Kombi valve. What did this small diameter hard pipe connect to? It looks like another pipe runs along the back of the motor...where does this pipe end at?
I believe the small hose is there to release any pressure left over in the combi. And I'm pretty sure it goes from combi back to the intake manifold. Once I get home I'll let you know for sure. Cheers
mash35231, I think I read that wrong. The other hard line goes to the secondary air pump, on the lower passenger side.
It’s a reference line going to the turbo inlet pipe.
Damn bro you master P? favorite word is ahhh ……. Ahhhhh.. ahhh!😳
Hi, thanks for the great video! Is it possible that oil leaks through the gasket (9:26) between combi valve and the engine block? It looks that i have a leak there. My valve cover gasket is new and clean, but I still have some oil under this valve near the engine wall at the seam where this gasket is located.
The EGR/Combi just has air going through it to help the car warm up. The leak points near that location that I can think of would be:
*half moon gasket (under the cam chain tensioner),
*cam chain tensioner gasket (hard metal gasket used with small amount of RTV),
*valve cover gasket (at the half moon attached to the valve cover gasket),
*cam chain tensioner solenoid (has an O-ring that gets hard and stops working, I have a video on this, takes a few minutes to check).
The cam chain tensioner solenoid is easy to check and get out of the way, then move on to the half moons. I would check these, get a mirror behind the cam chain tensioner and check for small amounts of oil where the half moon gasket is. Let me know if you need anymore help/info, Cheers!
Thank you very much for the answer. I was thinking that this could be cam chain seals. I just successfully replaced valve cover gasket myself and now I'm afraid to do cam chain gaskets since it so easy to mess the timing of cam chain :(
Yeah cam chain tensioner can be tough. Never a fun job. I go the long way too and pull the intake cam to remove the tensioner so I can clean everything. Make sure to check around the tensioner half moon gasket before you start, you will see (a very small amount of) oil flowing over the side where the half moon sits (after you ran the car). This is kinda how I determine, although probably 70% of the time its tensioner gaskets leaking (they're just faulty all together). Good luck with it, any questions just ask, Cheers
Hi, I've gotten all the way up to removing the three screws off the combi valve but have trouble finding a tool to do the job. Can you tell me the specific name of the ratchet with the hex connection that you are using?
Sorry for the late response, here's the link, you can buy it at Lowes, the best mini ratchet ever made. Cheers!
m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-24-Piece-Standard-SAE-and-Metric-Polished-Chrome-Mechanic-s-Tool-Set/3387782?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-MechanicsTools-_-3387782:Kobalt&CAWELAID=&kpid=3387782&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=2496&k_clickID=fca90137-87d6-4ab6-83a5-b6715ceda9c4&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlrr89afl2wIVzrXACh03-gNqEAQYFCABEgI3rvD_BwE
Christopher Cameron Thanks a lot, much appreciated
You can use a 5mm allan wrench to remove the 3 screws as an alternative, the bolts aren't torqued very tight , so removal isn't too hard.
Gotta love how those Germans design the stuff on Audis. One little sensor you gotta remove the whole motor lol.
Well these engines require more parts because they operate with turbocharged engines, it also depends on the car size as well.
Hey I’m getting a p0411 code I know my secondary air pump is done it sounded horrible then now won’t even come on while cold. Do you think I would need to change the combi valve as well with the pump or changing the pump is enough?
In my opinion, this is sai pump. Check this pump or buy new one ;) i had same symphtoms but my pump is working (i have horrible sound too, but i dont have check engine error)
Fix your pump first, then check the combi valve.
The small 3mm hose going into the combi valve, where does it go? On my car that hose is missing and won't pass emissions. Someone PLEASE tell me where it goes. I would really appreciate it.
It goes to a small valve under the intake manifold, around the #2 cylinder.
This both have any gasket?
Basic Auto maintenance, I believe it had two gaskets. One was block to combi, and another in between the two pieces of the combi you see in the video. Let me know if there's anything else, cheers!
What's are the common issues of a bad EGR valve? My car is currently wanting to turn off while driving it's scary need help
The EGR is just for SAI. Which helps the car with cold starts. If the valve is stuck open, it will could possibly lead to a few issues. But I don't think it could cause the car to turn off.
Is the power shutting off, or does it sound like it's not getting gas? How steady is it at idle? If you could get someone to hook the car up to vag-com, the car could tell you almost right where the problem is. I would almost say (as long as the electrical stays lit up like the cluster) it could be something like a fuel pump. You could rent a fuel pressure gauge or tap a flat head screw driver on the fuel rails test port. Run the car for a few seconds and turn off the car (to build up some pressure) then test the fuel rails port, it should have asked bit of pressure, if it just kinda speckles out, it's probably the pump. Let me know though if the electrical blinks our goes out when you driving. Could be a good few other things if that's the case. Let me kmow, cheers
Maybe your SAI is not working and it's absorbing all the gases from the EGR Valve that is not working and then your Intake may be absorbing that from the SAI. I had that problem my car would turn off while driving because my engine was absorbing a lot of dirty crap from the SAI, when I removed the SAI it was full of dirty shit then I checked the Intake filter and it was full of brown shit the MAF was also full of brown shit and I don't even want to mention the Intercooler....
@@ChristopherCameronAudiRepair Maybe your SAI is not working and it's absorbing all the gases from the EGR Valve that is not working and then your Intake may be absorbing that from the SAI. I had that problem my car would turn off while driving because my engine was absorbing a lot of dirty crap from the SAI, when I removed the SAI it was full of dirty shit then I checked the Intake filter and it was full of brown shit the MAF was also full of brown shit and I don't even want to mention the Intercooler....
"ummm"
"Uhhh"
Uuuuummm I'll be right back uuuuuuummmmmmm.
Mhmmm
Hahha yeah I'm kinda shit at making videos. Sorry you had to sit through that.
Why did you change it what symptoms did you have?
Sorry for the very late reply. In case it didn't helps someone else, I'll post the answer. The check engine light came on, so I hooked up vag-com and it was throwing SAI codes. The EGR/combi is used just for letting air in and blocking itself once the car is warmed up. I was chasing the issue, an the EGR was the last place to check, SAI is a small easy system. My problem ended up being whoever rebuilt the engine put in a head with no air ports for the SAI. So the system was throwing codes to let me know air wasn't flowing correctly. Easy find, but a huge problem to fix. Hope this helps someone, Cheers
@@ChristopherCameronAudiRepair Ouch! I am debugging SAI right now on an AUG 1.8 engine. I verified that the pump does turn on, so my next steps are to check the pump output hose and the combi valve. I have a hand vacuum pump on loan/purchase from AutoZone, so I am starting with a few simple tests on the control side of the combi valve before digging in to replace it.
Can i please have the part number for this gasketi cant find it anywhere thankyou
The part numbers should be: 078131120K and 078131120M. Let me know if there's anything else. Cheers!
Cut it out of a soda can
Drink every time he says “uhhm”
You would be drunk very fast 😁 I'm bad at making videos. Cheers
Christopher Cameron I thought the video was made quite well in all honesty, good content, good explanation, was just having you on there mate ;)
I’m no better with my uhhms, much worse actually! Keep it up man :)
Dont use grips.... use an Allen key and cut it down if you have to. Also be very careful about scratching the metal trying to remove the old gasket, a razor blade is not recommended.
... or get a low-profile 5mm bit
This part must not be that important, It's missing on my A4 B5 AVANT, free weight reduction
It's for secondary air injection system (warming up the car), it opens up to push air into the engine block (on start-up), and regulates exhaust fume direction (after start-up). If it is supposed to be there, you'll see the SAI code thrown in VCDS.
A lot of people rip this out of there car instead of replacing/diagnosing. I have tried EBay " SAI relays" and nothing will clear the check engine other then fixing fault in the SAI. If anyone finds a work around let me know!
Yeah i just bought my audi and nothing theres. I scanned my car 3 codes 00561, mixture adjustment control, 16989, internal control module read only memory (EPROM) error B and code 01217, SRS driver airbag plug faulty. My car still goes good with these issues 🙂👍👍
Is that a B6, That air bag code is the plug under the seat. There is a write up to fix it in audizine, a audi certified fix too, plug pins get corroded and throw code. mixture adjustment, have you cleaned your throttle body and ran calibration (calibration through VCDS), could need to clean the MAF sensor too. EPROM error, all I could find is this real fast, I could take a look later once I'm home though.
wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16989/P0605/001541
You could do all this stuff probably within an hour or two (doing the airbag fix takes the longest). Let me know how if you got any questions. Cheers!
It must not be. I have an 1997 a4 B5 and I just got the code P0401. So far my car hasnt ran any different. Ive only noticed increased fuel consumption. Is it okay to keep driving it like this? It still runs fine. Doesn't overheat idle rough or stall at stops. Thanks
@@insanebeast9466 If smog tests are required where you live, you will fail that.
Say um again so hard
Jonathon Salisbury um again so hard
this is not egr
Piotr Korkosz according to ecs tuning and a few other places, it's an EGR. I know this as a combi valve for SAI, however some people search (or know it as an)EGR valve. I don't believe it does any exhaust recirculation.
combi valve is used to heat the catalyst during engine start(SAI). EGR is used for something else
@Prior K. It is the EGR valve commonly referred to as the Combi valve.
This is the egr,I have two on my 4.2
Yes, it is EGR valve according to the ETKA papers.