Y'know... When I clicked on the channel from a 'rain diorama' from 3 years ago I didn't expect this, but I am all for it! This is such an awesome idea!
Great looking ship! Thanks for taking us through the build. Corellian family of starship designs are the core of Star Wars - this craft definitely doesn’t disappoint. Thanks again!
That was the idea when designing it, to use the same design language as a YT series, or maybe, something in-universe that is a clear Corellian knockoff.
This is an awesome 3D printed kit! It shows what these printers are actually capable of in the hands of a person that understands how to work the program. I love this build, it shows off your various talents. Thank you for sharing your artistic painting abilities on this kit. Well done!!
Kathy, A good piece of advice, the floor tiles are best printed upright to get full resolution on FDM, on fine mesh patterns typically found on those tiles it works wonders.
If it's still an option for the design, it might work better to remove the vents from the main print and have them slot in ontop. The places where there's a join line overtop of them seems to be something that puts more attention on them there.
There’s loads of ways to tweak it to be better but the flat edges do print better which is why I think Ben designed it this way. It’s one of his first ships and there’s so much he’s learnt since this.
Likewise. They are a bit of a harp back to the 'flying saucer' to me. Which is obviously quite alien to our terrestrial preconceptions of something that should fly. Maybe that's why it resonates?
That is some fine looking work. And what anice garden you have! The print lines aren't that bad for the exterior, as the ships in the Star Wars universe have that grity industrial look.
Thank you. Layer lines just bug me so I go out of my way to avoid showing them. I have gotten used to them though so is that a lowering of my standards or have I just found successful ways to hide them?
@@KathyMillatt Sometimes you just have to roll with it. One can sand away piles and piles of material to get a smooth surface, but I guess time constraints and small fiddly bits come in the way. Having smoother surfaces printed in resin maybe, but then you'd have print extra bits and glue them. Also you'd have to have a rresin 3d printer. Maybe you could use someself leveling medium to hide the lines. In some prints the lines give extra dimensions to the surface, so no big deal. :) Cheers!!
@@apathtrampledbydeer8446 I have a resin printer big enough but the cost would be prohibitive and I have doubts about how robust it would be. I could have used spray putty to even it out a bit but I worry about the fine detail being lost...
Wow, this looks absolutely amazing! The painting and weathering were really successful in the end.👌🏻🤩 I don't play games like that, but I still wouldn't mind having a model like that.😍 One problem, however, would be that it's bigger than any (H0) diorama that I've ever built, so I don't have room for it.😅 As I said, the painting turned out really well, even with all the "mistakes" along the way. I'm currently trying my hand at a rusty old H0 Chevy pickup and can start all over again even though I'm not even halfway done yet. Unfortunately, my “happy accidents” don’t work for me at all, they just remain what they are: bad mistakes...😵🤣🤣
Happy accidents go both ways don’t they! 😁 You could shrink this down but I tried printing their Type S in resin at 15mm and the walls got a little thin in places resulting in warping. I gave up on the interior in the end because of time pressures.
Outstanding work and enjoyed watching your build process. I was watching this video with my granddaughter and she wondered if you could pls add little people to this type of scale model to help represent the scale/size. Maybe I have a future model maker on my hands 😊
You can make where the tree connects to the model smaller so it's easier to remove. From what I've seen there's a learning curve to getting it right so you might want to do so smaller pieces first to iron it out.
A comment on the openLOCK tiles. We have since this ship design started printing the floor tiles on their sides, since we have flat decks. This lets us remove the supports, and leaves the floors looking even better. These should be available in the 1.x release as a part of the campaign.
I am printing the Transport Delta currently, at 100%. It is compatible with the older Star Wars Rebels 28mm miniature line from Wizards of the Coast. Not that I have any yet. Thankyou for your video, it is very insightful. I haven't started painting yet, but I have been gluing. I super glued the entire lower hull and when finished will superglue the upper hull also, but I will not do that until it fits every which way. Supergluing is important, these models are big and heavy and over time sag where the clips are. Even Bens models do this. It is why we don't see his Chimera much, it has middle age droop. Yes there are holes for batons, but superglue fixes this completely. Glue it down fully including on the clips themselves, sequentially so there are no mistakes. Eventually the hull becomes two pieces excepting only the optional missile ports, and the side caps. The interior will be attached with clips only, but it rests on a levelled surface. Also this means once each half is done I can apply model between the pieces for a better join and top repair the small misprints I sometimes get on the edges. I also printed mine in several colours, black for the hull, silver for components, it adds an additional base in base things don't get painted properly. Some parts are very tight like the bendy clips. Silver colour filament means I can dispense with the spray undercoat and have a single coat of drybrush to add teeth for the inkwash. The only thing I cannot skip here is the varnish, but I will use a paint on varnish on the ramps. I have a long way to go. It will be a surprise Christmas present so time is short.
Sounds wonderful! Yes they do sag a little over time but I’d use 5minute epoxy to give a bit of working time. I wanted mine separate still for detailing the interior, which I still have to do. Now I have a Bambu, I am enjoying printing in matching colours far more and not painting.
@@KathyMillatt Sort of. I make a lot of houses, while I had the files a long time, I backed all my 2nd Dynasty projects in Kickstarter I have only just started them, the last 18 months I have been printing a medieval fantasy town. There is a massive difference between 28mm and 32mm mainly because both scales also have normal and heroic definition. Then there is inconsistency between different companies minis. You printed for Legends, I am printing for Rebels. Meanwjhile, some buildings print at 100%, or a little larger in one case, but a LOT of the houses are scaled for heroic miniatures and I rescale to approx 94%, though as its medieval I vary that from 90-100%. I put a wall section and a door on my slicer and see from there. The problem you had with printing some pieces at 100% by forgetting. I feel that pain. So I keep a notebook telling me what building I am printing at what scale, and I am normally a percentage out between them, and sometimes switch the z axis setting between floors, keep things irregular and note that too The effects is very nice and quite subtle. However sometimes I forget to record entries in my notebook, have printed half a house and can't remember what scale I printed it.
This is cool! I'd love to see models with this level of detail of the YT-2400 or better yet the YT-2000. This actually looks very similar to a YT-2000 so the thumbnail got my attention fast lol
A happy and sad comment 😁 Happy..Star Wars fan (since '77), model maker and gamer..this vid was a, rare, perfect suggested view.I love the design...it definitely belongs in the Clrellian light freighter line up...and with a playable , detailed, interior..I love it 😁👍 Sad?...that I missed the Ki ckstarter by less than a week..I was ready to back it in the first minute of the video 😎 I hope there will be options to get this in the future...I had been looking for something like this for a while..I obviously needed to look harder😁 Great work, and thanks for sharing...I'm going to have fun looking through this channels playlist I'm sure.
@KathyMillatt Just picked it up, along with some other optional parts..this is going to be interesting 😁 There may have been another shopping raid later for a Landing pad and bits too...I like the possibilities here🙂 Practical question...I don't have much in the way of filament...and have no idea how much I'm going to need...for the ship at least...any recommendations? UK supplier if there's a good one...I really am a newb to this😁
So freaking cool! I'm thinking of getting into 3D printing custom models. Your channel will be very informative. Subbed! I do want to 3D print the War Rig file from Fury Road. 🤘😎
Nice work Kathy, big project too✌️👍💜 Is this commission work may I ask. I agree about airbrush weathering, I always finish up detail weathering with brushes, powders and sponges. I've a nice - marker pen sized - one from Greenstuff World. What make is yours, it looks a bit bigger again🤔👍💜 Loved the Haynes manual - I wish they still did them for cars too✌️ I always use MIG powders, black is scary, but it's a good powder, so is Vietnam Earth for rust😊
Amazing job! I always learn something new from your videos. Is this scalable for SW Shatterpoint? And, can some of the parts be printed in 3D lcd resin?
Thanks! Yes, it is as I’ve scaled up from 28mm already. It would be getting very big though! You could certainly do some bits in resin but it’s optimised for FDM and I think the durability, price and dimensional stability are better in FDM for something this large.
I’m be tried UV resin and I found it filled in the fine details more than I liked. It’s a toss up between losing detail and gaining a smooth surface. I generally prefer spray putty for ease.
Very nice. It is hard to properly arm the freighter in SW, because it should retain a number of "door" for freight boarding, contact with other ships, and it is not a destroyer, therefore the weaponry should be at least hidden under velvet glove, if not outright outdated.
Interesting! I'm not loving the turret on this design - mostly the size, I know Star Wars civilian ships are surprisingly well-armed for the setting but even so, that much gun seems implausible to me. But then official designs like *Outrider* have the same problem, so fair enough. Anyway, this inspired two thoughts: first, Adam Savage was recently wishing for project managment software integrated into slicer programs, and this project feels like a strong argument in favour of that! Also, while I've never used Montana paints (because I'm in Canada) other UK RUclipsrs seem happy with them. From what you describe - the "gritty" effect and coming off when you touch it - my first guess is you sprayed it when it was a little too cold. That kind of pebbling can happen with spray bombs if the environment isn't warm enough. I also wonder how long you let it cure? Most spray paints I've encountered (and I used to sell them for a living) have a five day cure time over plastic. This is because the carrier medium will sometimes react with plastic in weird ways and it takes time for the reaction to end. In general, my advice to anyone spray painting plastic (and it is a good way to lay down a lot of colour quickly) is: first, test the paint on scrap to make sure it will actually cure; some paints on some plastics just never will. Then, make sure it's at least 12 degrees, 15 is better, both when you paint it and for at least a couple hours afterwards. Next, though it can be annoying to wait, give the paint the full cure time listed on the can, even if that's a full five days. Good luck on the kickstarter!
Thanks for the tips. It was UK summer so probably around 18-20 when I sprayed it and the Anthracite went on fine. Reading reviews of Montana, plenty of people have problems so I’m uncertain about them as a brand. Plus this had a month after spraying before I touched it again so plenty of time to do it’s thing.
Yes but I can’t be bothered to set it up and I find the wind makes it harder to get great finishes. Plus it rains a lot and generally when I want to paint!
@@KathyMillatt that’s awesome! I hope you enjoy countless hours with your legion and crafting hobbies! You inspired us to do a similar project here, and I appreciate the work you do
I like the ship, well I like 90% of it. The thing that really turns me off is the weapon placement. The side mounted weapon placement is a good idea but it also limits the docking options of the ship. Personally I would like a Dorsal and Ventral mount for the turrets as I think it makes the most sense. I also like the turrets but I think they could use some visible sensors.
@@KathyMillatt I spent a little too much time thinking about how I would design a space ship. The side mounted turrets on a wide ship look cool but I could only imagine difficulties in using them against snub fighters (gunship and larger, I can imagine less issues). The turrets pulling double duty as airlocks ... it looks interesting but from a technical standpoint I can only imagine problems. For this design I think a single Dorsal and ventral turret like the classic Millennium Falcon is the best option as it provides the most coverage with minimal resources. I like the ship but the turret placement really bother me.
Having also printed one of his ships in a different scale, I feel your pain with all the reprinting. Edit: I mean, I imagine the crew could put whatever colour blankets they want in the ship, really... I'm not sure there _is_ a wrong colour.
Fantastic model and amazing paintwork, just plz, wear a mask when spraying, even when you are outside, you are so close to the spraycan and often spraying upwind.
@@snowvon7160true and I love that design. This model has other versions which have the asymmetrical bridge but I liked this version best. You can still fly small high value cargo, just not act as a tug.
![Star Wars Millennium Falcon automatized model [ Altaya / Deagostini ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/H0IdLvwzT60/mqdefault.jpg)
Y'know... When I clicked on the channel from a 'rain diorama' from 3 years ago I didn't expect this, but I am all for it! This is such an awesome idea!
Glad you like it!
Great looking ship! Thanks for taking us through the build. Corellian family of starship designs are the core of Star Wars - this craft definitely doesn’t disappoint. Thanks again!
Thanks and couldn't agree more on the Corellian ships.
That was the idea when designing it, to use the same design language as a YT series, or maybe, something in-universe that is a clear Corellian knockoff.
@@2ndDynasty3D You definitely succeeded!
This is an awesome 3D printed kit! It shows what these printers are actually capable of in the hands of a person that understands how to work the program. I love this build, it shows off your various talents. Thank you for sharing your artistic painting abilities on this kit. Well done!!
Wow, thanks!
That's one beautiful model Kathy, as a kit for display or for table top gaming, excellent paint job it really made the detailed printing standout.
Many thanks! It is a beautiful model!
Great work!
WOW . Full watch and share .
Your finish is amazing.
Mike
Thank you very much!
Looks great Kathy.
Awesome paint job. 👍
Thank you Monique!
Wow! Great job! Congratulations!!! I just LOVE when there are real interiors in models! Thank you for sharing it. :)
Thanks so much! 😊
What a time to be alive! Fantastic work on this project!
Thank you!
Wow! That’s really stunning. What a great ship. Painstakingly weathered. Wonderful.
Many thanks Norm! I am actually pleased with it!
Kathy, A good piece of advice, the floor tiles are best printed upright to get full resolution on FDM, on fine mesh patterns typically found on those tiles it works wonders.
I prefer printing flat as I find it minimises layer lines in the top surface. There’s quite a few smooth top floors that I just order that way round.
Great model and love your weathering on it. Great job!
Thank you very much!
If it's still an option for the design, it might work better to remove the vents from the main print and have them slot in ontop. The places where there's a join line overtop of them seems to be something that puts more attention on them there.
There’s loads of ways to tweak it to be better but the flat edges do print better which is why I think Ben designed it this way. It’s one of his first ships and there’s so much he’s learnt since this.
Reminds me of the Ghost
Yes - most of the Corellian type ships will have similarities to them. I love how they look.
The whole family do look similar
They are some of my favourite designs.
Likewise. They are a bit of a harp back to the 'flying saucer' to me. Which is obviously quite alien to our terrestrial preconceptions of something that should fly. Maybe that's why it resonates?
@@tedytarrify It's definitely a bumble bee type of design - you look and think it shouldn't fly but it does
YO THIS IS AMAZING!!!!! I love when people bring the imagination to LIFE!!!
Thank you!
Brilliant! The paint job is awesome!
Thank you very much!
Just stunning Kathy, amazing
Thank you so much!
Holy crap what an awesome project! Great work!
Thanks!
Thats really cool Kathy. Great job.
Thank you!
That is some fine looking work.
And what anice garden you have!
The print lines aren't that bad for the exterior, as the ships in the Star Wars universe have that grity industrial look.
Thank you.
Layer lines just bug me so I go out of my way to avoid showing them. I have gotten used to them though so is that a lowering of my standards or have I just found successful ways to hide them?
@@KathyMillatt Sometimes you just have to roll with it. One can sand away piles and piles of material to get a smooth surface, but I guess time constraints and small fiddly bits come in the way. Having smoother surfaces printed in resin maybe, but then you'd have print extra bits and glue them. Also you'd have to have a rresin 3d printer.
Maybe you could use someself leveling medium to hide the lines. In some prints the lines give extra dimensions to the surface, so no big deal. :)
Cheers!!
@@apathtrampledbydeer8446 I have a resin printer big enough but the cost would be prohibitive and I have doubts about how robust it would be. I could have used spray putty to even it out a bit but I worry about the fine detail being lost...
very nice work Kathy this is crazy!
Thank you!
Nice! Thanks Kathy.
Thanks for watching!
This is insanely beautiful!
Thank you!
The Steel Blade
“ Ship Name “ 🔥
I’ve not though of a name. Now I’ll have to!
@@KathyMillatt Thank You 😊
That's another great looking model, looks good even as a display piece.
I think so too! It’s just big.
Wow, this looks absolutely amazing! The painting and weathering were really successful in the end.👌🏻🤩 I don't play games like that, but I still wouldn't mind having a model like that.😍 One problem, however, would be that it's bigger than any (H0) diorama that I've ever built, so I don't have room for it.😅 As I said, the painting turned out really well, even with all the "mistakes" along the way. I'm currently trying my hand at a rusty old H0 Chevy pickup and can start all over again even though I'm not even halfway done yet. Unfortunately, my “happy accidents” don’t work for me at all, they just remain what they are: bad mistakes...😵🤣🤣
Happy accidents go both ways don’t they! 😁
You could shrink this down but I tried printing their Type S in resin at 15mm and the walls got a little thin in places resulting in warping. I gave up on the interior in the end because of time pressures.
What a great build, the model and paint job both. 12 year old me's head would have exploded seeing this, haha.
12 year old me would have too!
So cool!! Great idea and execution
Thanks so much!
Excellent work. a playable piece of art.
Thanks and yes, trying to get some Legion Spec Ops going for it.
Outstanding work and enjoyed watching your build process. I was watching this video with my granddaughter and she wondered if you could pls add little people to this type of scale model to help represent the scale/size. Maybe I have a future model maker on my hands 😊
Your granddaughter is so right. I keep meaning to do people and clutter as a second video but just haven’t had time yet.
Would be Great addition to any collection
Thanks!
You can make where the tree connects to the model smaller so it's easier to remove. From what I've seen there's a learning curve to getting it right so you might want to do so smaller pieces first to iron it out.
I need to learn that as I haven’t needed to so far.
Looks amazing! Very nice work.
Thank you very much!
Beautiful work!
Thank you very much!
The Millennium Falcon was originally a "tug boat" (why it has the split front and off set cockpit)
I love the concept art for it pushing the containers but the front cockpit like this was also an option so the freighters had many uses.
A comment on the openLOCK tiles. We have since this ship design started printing the floor tiles on their sides, since we have flat decks. This lets us remove the supports, and leaves the floors looking even better. These should be available in the 1.x release as a part of the campaign.
Thanks Ben.
Looks great! Nice job.
Thanks!
I once came up with a similar design but in LEGO! I'm really happy to see something similar but more realistic
Lego - That's cool!
@@KathyMillatt I'm a huge LEGO fan. I even designed my own Star Trek ship in LEGO and I am super proud of it.
@@VaderTheWhite Sounds Awesome
That is truly awesome. Plenty of people are going to ask to make them one . I shore do want one 😃😊
You can print one at home yourself! That’s the beauty of 3D printing.
WOW!!! Great job 👍🏻
Thank you! 😁
That looks great!
Thank you!
An amazing piece of work! Well done! Hi love it and fine work ❤
Thank you so much!
Incredible
Thanks James
Awesome Work !!!
Thanks a lot!
I am printing the Transport Delta currently, at 100%. It is compatible with the older Star Wars Rebels 28mm miniature line from Wizards of the Coast. Not that I have any yet.
Thankyou for your video, it is very insightful.
I haven't started painting yet, but I have been gluing. I super glued the entire lower hull and when finished will superglue the upper hull also, but I will not do that until it fits every which way.
Supergluing is important, these models are big and heavy and over time sag where the clips are. Even Bens models do this. It is why we don't see his Chimera much, it has middle age droop. Yes there are holes for batons, but superglue fixes this completely. Glue it down fully including on the clips themselves, sequentially so there are no mistakes. Eventually the hull becomes two pieces excepting only the optional missile ports, and the side caps. The interior will be attached with clips only, but it rests on a levelled surface.
Also this means once each half is done I can apply model between the pieces for a better join and top repair the small misprints I sometimes get on the edges.
I also printed mine in several colours, black for the hull, silver for components, it adds an additional base in base things don't get painted properly. Some parts are very tight like the bendy clips. Silver colour filament means I can dispense with the spray undercoat and have a single coat of drybrush to add teeth for the inkwash. The only thing I cannot skip here is the varnish, but I will use a paint on varnish on the ramps.
I have a long way to go. It will be a surprise Christmas present so time is short.
Sounds wonderful! Yes they do sag a little over time but I’d use 5minute epoxy to give a bit of working time. I wanted mine separate still for detailing the interior, which I still have to do.
Now I have a Bambu, I am enjoying printing in matching colours far more and not painting.
It’s a 28mm ship so I see no reason why it would not be compatible with any 28-32mm miniatures
@@KathyMillatt Sort of. I make a lot of houses, while I had the files a long time, I backed all my 2nd Dynasty projects in Kickstarter I have only just started them, the last 18 months I have been printing a medieval fantasy town.
There is a massive difference between 28mm and 32mm mainly because both scales also have normal and heroic definition. Then there is inconsistency between different companies minis. You printed for Legends, I am printing for Rebels.
Meanwjhile, some buildings print at 100%, or a little larger in one case, but a LOT of the houses are scaled for heroic miniatures and I rescale to approx 94%, though as its medieval I vary that from 90-100%.
I put a wall section and a door on my slicer and see from there.
The problem you had with printing some pieces at 100% by forgetting. I feel that pain. So I keep a notebook telling me what building I am printing at what scale, and I am normally a percentage out between them, and sometimes switch the z axis setting between floors, keep things irregular and note that too The effects is very nice and quite subtle. However sometimes I forget to record entries in my notebook, have printed half a house and can't remember what scale I printed it.
@@nerdytom6881 I find my videos used to be great for remembering what I did...
@@KathyMillatt Well that is one way I suppose.
This is incredible, I love it
Thanks!
This is cool! I'd love to see models with this level of detail of the YT-2400 or better yet the YT-2000. This actually looks very similar to a YT-2000 so the thumbnail got my attention fast lol
That would be cool!
Amazing work! I just found you and subd. I look forward to watching some of your past videos.
Awesome, thank you!
that is awesome Kathy. I think that 'might be' the same ship or similar that you play in video game X-Wing Alliance.
That would be neat - I haven't played that (yet).
Really amazing !
Thanks a lot!
A happy and sad comment 😁
Happy..Star Wars fan (since '77), model maker and gamer..this vid was a, rare, perfect suggested view.I love the design...it definitely belongs in the Clrellian light freighter line up...and with a playable , detailed, interior..I love it 😁👍
Sad?...that I missed the Ki ckstarter by less than a week..I was ready to back it in the first minute of the video 😎 I hope there will be options to get this in the future...I had been looking for something like this for a while..I obviously needed to look harder😁
Great work, and thanks for sharing...I'm going to have fun looking through this channels playlist I'm sure.
You can still get the ship at 2nd Dynasty so all is not lost!
www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-transport-delta-99622
@@KathyMillatt Excellent, thank you 😁 I shall go take a look and see what goodies await🙂👍
@KathyMillatt Just picked it up, along with some other optional parts..this is going to be interesting 😁 There may have been another shopping raid later for a Landing pad and bits too...I like the possibilities here🙂
Practical question...I don't have much in the way of filament...and have no idea how much I'm going to need...for the ship at least...any recommendations? UK supplier if there's a good one...I really am a newb to this😁
I’m going to reply on Discord as I know you’re there and YT isn’t great for chatting.
@@KathyMillatt I saw it 😁
Cool job. Have you ever used filler primer on your bigger chunkier 3D parts as a way of somewhat dealing with the layer lines?
I tend to use spray putty but I worry about it filling in the fine detail too.
saw the video , then heard your voice... didnt realise it was one of yours. I dont have a 3d printer etc but still... this is great.
Thanks!
So freaking cool!
I'm thinking of getting into 3D printing custom models. Your channel will be very informative. Subbed!
I do want to 3D print the War Rig file from Fury Road.
🤘😎
The war rig looks like a cool model! Enjoy getting onto 3D printing. It’s a great hobby.
Looks like an old West End Games YT freighter design. Very Cool.
I don’t know that one I’m afraid but it’s definitely got the Corellian YT vibe
In the 80's West End Games published Star Wars the Roleplaying Game and SO MUCH of that lore has been incorporated into modern Star Wars@@KathyMillatt
Nice work Kathy, big project too✌️👍💜 Is this commission work may I ask.
I agree about airbrush weathering, I always finish up detail weathering with brushes, powders and sponges. I've a nice - marker pen sized - one from Greenstuff World. What make is yours, it looks a bit bigger again🤔👍💜
Loved the Haynes manual - I wish they still did them for cars too✌️
I always use MIG powders, black is scary, but it's a good powder, so is Vietnam Earth for rust😊
It is big! This is just for me, hopefully to play on! Not sure what you’re asking about for the size I’m afraid.
@@KathyMillatt Hi Kathy, enjoy the freighter! The size was for the sponge😄😄👍✌️😊 I use a GSW one😊👍✌️
@@musoseven8218 It's Green Stuff World too but I think they do different sizes
@@KathyMillatt Thanks Kathy I didn't realise that😄✌️💜
Amazing job! I always learn something new from your videos. Is this scalable for SW Shatterpoint? And, can some of the parts be printed in 3D lcd resin?
Thanks! Yes, it is as I’ve scaled up from 28mm already. It would be getting very big though!
You could certainly do some bits in resin but it’s optimised for FDM and I think the durability, price and dimensional stability are better in FDM for something this large.
For a moment I thought it was the Otana from X-Wing Alliance.
Either way, the end result is amazing! :D
Thank you!
Love your videos, where're dud you purchase those mats on your workstation? I live them
They’re self healing cutting mats. I got mine on Amazon but you should find them at craft shops too.
Looks awsome.
Thank you!
That is really, really cool! I want one just to build as a display model!
It is cool. 😁
One way to deal with layer lines is to get some UV resin mixed with french chalk paint it on then whack it with a UV light.
I’m be tried UV resin and I found it filled in the fine details more than I liked. It’s a toss up between losing detail and gaining a smooth surface. I generally prefer spray putty for ease.
@KathyMillatt I think that's why you use the French chalk with it, thickens the mixture and makes it less milky.
@@NumberOneGeek I have never heard of French Chalk but I used to have a massive bag of Calcium Carbonate for a similar purpose
@@KathyMillatt It's un perfumed talc.
Very nice. It is hard to properly arm the freighter in SW, because it should retain a number of "door" for freight boarding, contact with other ships, and it is not a destroyer, therefore the weaponry should be at least hidden under velvet glove, if not outright outdated.
I put two airlocks on the play so you can enter both sides. The turret gets left off then. I do prefer that look.
I LOVE THIS STUFF
Thank you so much!
It’s amazing love it
Thank you so much!
Looks cool.
Thanks!
Interesting! I'm not loving the turret on this design - mostly the size, I know Star Wars civilian ships are surprisingly well-armed for the setting but even so, that much gun seems implausible to me. But then official designs like *Outrider* have the same problem, so fair enough. Anyway, this inspired two thoughts: first, Adam Savage was recently wishing for project managment software integrated into slicer programs, and this project feels like a strong argument in favour of that!
Also, while I've never used Montana paints (because I'm in Canada) other UK RUclipsrs seem happy with them. From what you describe - the "gritty" effect and coming off when you touch it - my first guess is you sprayed it when it was a little too cold. That kind of pebbling can happen with spray bombs if the environment isn't warm enough. I also wonder how long you let it cure? Most spray paints I've encountered (and I used to sell them for a living) have a five day cure time over plastic. This is because the carrier medium will sometimes react with plastic in weird ways and it takes time for the reaction to end.
In general, my advice to anyone spray painting plastic (and it is a good way to lay down a lot of colour quickly) is: first, test the paint on scrap to make sure it will actually cure; some paints on some plastics just never will. Then, make sure it's at least 12 degrees, 15 is better, both when you paint it and for at least a couple hours afterwards. Next, though it can be annoying to wait, give the paint the full cure time listed on the can, even if that's a full five days.
Good luck on the kickstarter!
Thanks for the tips. It was UK summer so probably around 18-20 when I sprayed it and the Anthracite went on fine. Reading reviews of Montana, plenty of people have problems so I’m uncertain about them as a brand. Plus this had a month after spraying before I touched it again so plenty of time to do it’s thing.
On the guns, im actually running a double airlock version as it gives a more even set of entry points for game play.
Amazing. 👍 Cheers Andy 🤠
Thank you Andy!
awesome
Thank you
Amazing!
Thanks!
Very cool!
Thanks!
Hi! This is amazing! Love it!
Thank you so much!
That is my dream creation!
Thank you!
Awesome!
Thanks!
Looks amazing! Any chance you'll show it in situ of a game at some point?
I need to paint my spec ops team up and then get someone else to do the same but games are planned.
Fantastic 👍
Thank you so much
Can you use your airbrush outside? Or possibly get a portable one for situations like this?
Yes but I can’t be bothered to set it up and I find the wind makes it harder to get great finishes. Plus it rains a lot and generally when I want to paint!
Very nice work. I just dont know what kind of machine you use to print
Mostly my Neptune 3 Pros.
Is this the Long Varient or the Standard Delta Ship?? I’m thinking about getting the Arymetric Ship for Spec Ops Play!
This is the standard base ship. I want to use mine for Spec Ops too.
@@KathyMillatt that’s awesome! I hope you enjoy countless hours with your legion and crafting hobbies! You inspired us to do a similar project here, and I appreciate the work you do
Man, I thought I had awesome printed stuff: THIS... this is next level. That's no moon... it's a Legion playable YT model freighter!
😁😁😁 it’s such a cool model.
Wonderful. It needs some figures.
Yes, coming next. It also needs a lot more clutter.
Love it.
Thanks!
Wow😮 so awesome
Thank you so much!
AwSoME 👏🏻 👏🏻 👏🏻
😁😍😁
OH this is WICKED!!!!!!!!!! HAHAH and yeah, I too clicked for the rain dio!!!
Thanks!
this might be the inspiration i need to actually learn how to use the printer i have
A good project always helps with learning stuff!
Working on one now...
Have fun! It’s a great ship.
so ace ! I'm not a massive SW fan and I like Star Trek better but I can see the falcon shape
I used to be an avid Trekkie but in recent years I’ve gone more Warsie….
Very cool. Nice work. Now we lost communication with the mining colony on LV-426, could you go check that out for us?
Sure thing 😁
this is amazing!! I want one but no 3d printer and I am not creative in the slightest lol ❤❤
There are so many great print files out there so all you need to do is print.
I like the ship, well I like 90% of it. The thing that really turns me off is the weapon placement.
The side mounted weapon placement is a good idea but it also limits the docking options of the ship. Personally I would like a Dorsal and Ventral mount for the turrets as I think it makes the most sense.
I also like the turrets but I think they could use some visible sensors.
I have a spare airlock I tend to put there as it’s more balanced to enter the ship when playing.
@@KathyMillatt
I spent a little too much time thinking about how I would design a space ship. The side mounted turrets on a wide ship look cool but I could only imagine difficulties in using them against snub fighters (gunship and larger, I can imagine less issues).
The turrets pulling double duty as airlocks ... it looks interesting but from a technical standpoint I can only imagine problems.
For this design I think a single Dorsal and ventral turret like the classic Millennium Falcon is the best option as it provides the most coverage with minimal resources.
I like the ship but the turret placement really bother me.
Someone did not understand that the Millennium Falcon is a freighter where the slit in the front is for coupling cargo and not for a cockpit.
This is a variant that was in the concept art. Yes, there are tug versions that push but many serve different purposes and the whole line is modular.
The Gen Z Raptor
Reminds me of the Narcissus from Alien.
That’s a little blockier but definitely similar shapes.
Having also printed one of his ships in a different scale, I feel your pain with all the reprinting.
Edit: I mean, I imagine the crew could put whatever colour blankets they want in the ship, really... I'm not sure there _is_ a wrong colour.
It's Star Wars - there's always a wrong answer and I usually find it!!!
@@KathyMillatt True... or at least you'll always find someone who will tell you you've got the wrong answer. :D
Fantastic model and amazing paintwork, just plz, wear a mask when spraying, even when you are outside, you are so close to the spraycan and often spraying upwind.
Yes, thanks, I’ve had a few comments on it.
Coool!!
😁😁😁
The falcon is a cargo hauler is this to protect it?
This has a cargo bay. None of the YT freighters seem to have big cargo bays
@@KathyMillatt the mouth opening of the front of the falcon links up to cargo pods to push freight around space
@@snowvon7160true and I love that design. This model has other versions which have the asymmetrical bridge but I liked this version best. You can still fly small high value cargo, just not act as a tug.
Even spraying out doors you should wear a mask, you still inhale a large amount of paint and propellant.
I’ve had so many comments on this one video that I’ll do that in future.
What would the ship be called?
Good question and I’m open to suggestions. I’ve currently got a ship in Starfield called Silent Runner and I quite like that.
Is it possible for you to print it for someone?
I just don’t have the time I’m afraid.