Love your work. One thing, though. You should try filling holes and seams with resin instead of putty. Just drop some on and use a HV torch/ flashlight to harden it. Then it’s exactly the same surface material.
When I was a kid, I had the Republic Gunship LAAT ship from the Clone Wars (I think it was the animated 2003 version, because it had a monster mouth on the front) but just watching you click all the pieces together reminded me of how the ship got put together because I think it is the exact same. The wings clip on, then the rockets on top. Good memories. Also, you should make that variant, with the monster mouth, because that thing was cool. Also, also, great job with the model! It looks amazing!
Great model Kathy, now looking forward to see how you use it. I think this also proves that 3d printing modelling can also be quite a challenge at times and still requires a lot of work to get the right result.
thats very very nice size and build well done ,if you want my opinion because i am making resin models before it became affordable ...you dont need to use putty just use the resin it self to fill holes and seams and cure it then you can sand it down in seconds and you making your build faster like that ,nice job anyway !
I have recently started painting Legion miniatures, I would love to eventually make a gunship like this. This video was a great inspiration! Happy to see more Star Wars content on the channel ☺️
@@KathyMillatt It really was. I was just wondering could you provide a link to the enamel wash you used for the panel lining? I tried to google it and I’m not sure if my spelling is incorrect but I am not finding any result
@@CymruJedi They are Tamiya panel liners. I get mine on Amazon but they are just a convenient way of applying an enamel wash and loads of companies do those.
If you mask off around the area you apply the Tamiya putty to, you will have a lot less sanding to do, and you are at a much lower risk of damaging the surrounding decals. Also, when you polish clear parts, ignore the Tamiya polish compounds. Just use plain white toothpaste and a paper towel as your last step. That will buff everything to a crystal clear shine.
Thankfully, I placed the supports on areas where I could just sand flush. I use the masking tape trick on things like brickwork and is is a great time saver. I have the polishing compound so will give it a go. After owning it for years, it deserves some use!
Looks amazing!! Any time I have fogged plastic I use a heat gun and just pass over at 90% of the time it will make it all glossy and clear I do that with headlights etc. and it works great in most cases but you do have to be careful about overheating it because you can make it warp or bubble.
Hi Kathy, I'm new to your channel. Really enjoying your art, I love how clever you are! You really brought my son's file to life! I wish I had seen some of your techniques when I was trying to help Ty paint during a busy time.. I think I could really get into this!
Love the LAAT! Will be looking forward to the diorama. The best thing I've found for clear parts is AK Gauzy agent. Flory models did a review of it a few years ago, it's like magic.
Hi Kathy, wow, this model looks really awesome, you really did an amazing job!👍🏻🤩🙌🏻 Haha, I thought about using those failed printings for crashed ships just in the same moment you mentioned it in the Video.😅 Well, about LEDs🤓: Running different coloured LEDs from the same battery can be tricky, but it's possible: You have to connect each colour seperately in parallel to the battery, each colour with its own series resistor - a red LED chain in series with the resistor, a parallel blue chain in series with it's resistor... But you can also run red and blue LEDs in series; however, in this case the series resistor must be set to the lowest current requirement of the used LEDs (if the values for the respektive colours are different) - but of course here you cannot control properly the brightness of the different colours unlike the parallel connection. By the way, I once saw a cool DIY for a small battery "box" for button cells built from a disposable syringe - really nice, I'll have to try it myself one day...😏 Have a great time, many greetings from Southwest Germany - Ralf🖖🏻🍀
You may be able to minimize the visible printing artifacts like layer lines by adjusting your anti-aliasing settings in your 3D print slicer. You'll have to experiment to find out what works best for you and your primary resin, though.
Great presentation. Clear & concise with good techniques, clear audio, and discussion of your references - A+. The end result is beautiful.❤ Extra credit for no annoying THUMPING music! 👏 You now have a new subscriber from Los Angeles! I'll go see more of your videos now. 🙂
Hey Kathy, some feedback: after you fully wash and then cure the model with the supports on: I use a dremel with cutting disc and cut / grind the supports away leaving 1mm of support on the model. I see you used clippers in some areas and that's good too. I never rip off supports because they leave the holes as you experienced. Once all supports are ground off and 1mm nubs left, change to a diamond carbide fine grinding drum and easily grind away the support stumps. Do it properly and you will have a perfect surface left. Looks really great! Do this with a dust mitigation vacuum system and respirator!
OMG you are amazing, thank you for including the things that didn't work as well. We are all human and not everything works straight up and it's about problem solving. The final result is gorgeous, I thought it was a good 3D render, but it's a killer final product...
For the transparent pieces try SE Johnson future floor finish (name has been changed). After your final polish, dip it in the polish and let it drain/dry on a paper towel.
Hi Kathy, the LED problem you mentioned is because the different colour LED's operate at slightly different volt drops across the diode. So the diode with the lowest volt drop gets the power and the other one doesn't. The easy solution is to use a separate dropper resistor for each one. For a bi-colour LED you would need 2 resistors. You can check this with your multi meter on the "Diode Check" range, which show you the forward volt drop across the diode. Red diodes always seem to be about 1.4v, but blue diodes seem to come out at about 1.8v. This volt drop is fixed because the LED is a semiconductor. So if you have blue and red in parallel, the red holds the voltage too low for the blue to work. The technique I would use is to raise the voltage of your battery pack to higher than the highest diode volt drop, and fit resistors so that the resistor volt drop = battery voltage - diode volt drop. The calculation for the resistor value is ohms law, R = (Batt volts - Diode volts) / Current. Assume 20mA for diode current as a start and vary the resistor to vary the illumination you want. Sorry to appear patronising, and if you already knew this, I apologise..... Love the painting, weathering my trains is next, they are far too shiny. Pete S.
Great video! I’ll add this to my playlist for all the things I wanna paint but will never get around to🤣in seriousness though this paint job is done very well! Excited for the crashed gunship concept because you can make some cool dioramas including a clone last stand of sorts
Just discovered your channel and I am really impressed with your work and especially the scratch made electronics, subscribed so I can see more of your awesome work.
Nice print and finishing. The gunship is not only a looker but the engine purr it makes is glorious, I believe Lucas liked to use WW2 fighter engine noises for the ships, great choice.
That is an awesome build, it must be a great sense of achievement building the entire model from scratch, i could have watched an hour or two of your weathering techniques, the finish you have on the model is outstanding really good
I would very much like to have an SLA 3D printer, it is my dream to produce 3D models of figurines, but I have a panic fear of health risks, resin toxicity. Could you make a video on this topic sometime?
Stunning model. With respect to Reed switches....I always buy ones with three terminals......one terminal is a common, the other two are a 'usually on' and the other is a 'usually off'......so you can pick which behaviour you want.
Late to the game here- decided to purchase some of the 3.75 LAAT's, and modify them with my printer. Just an FYI- in this still pic- your front swing doors are on backwards- the "notch" goes to the other door to seal it... Great Job on the paint. Defiantly inspirational for when I go to repaint mine.
Great job Kathy , love the Star Wars Tech , but the models have become too expensive . Yours is a nice size , how heavy do they come out ?? Best wishes from Wales .😍😍
awesome model, i reccomend for clear parts using tamiya polishing compound you can get a glass like finish, sand it up to 4000 grit then use the medium fine and finish compounds, you truly get a perfectly clear result
For the LEDS the red I believe require a lower voltage to than the blue before they "turn on". Would likely need a little more voltage for the blue and a little less for the red. I don't know about electronics the way you do but on a breadboard I would run a wire to the blue LED's with a higher voltage around 3 volts, then add some resistance to drop the voltage down to 2 for the red LED's. Idk what was wrong with your circuit because I would have to put it on paper and solve for value's then test it. Likely you were running a battery pack that was supplying ~ 2.5 V which would turn on the Red's but not the Blue's. You would need 3 + V for the Blues. This is very interesting I am tempted to create this circuit myself and work around the value's and see how to connect LED"s in parallel and series configurations. I have only ever tested a single LED at a time in my lecture courses with different currents and voltages mapping out a graph with the values.
It is definitely to do with the voltage requirements being lower but it was quicker for me to split than to think it all through. Next time I will think! If you do work it out, I’d be fascinated to see the results.
Try perfect plastic putty I find it works better than the tamyia stuff. Also as far as masking goes, give it a coat of clear after the primer/white coat that way the base layers are protected and you don’t have to take the tact away from the tape. Lovely work I’ve been meaning to print it.
I have some perfect plastic putty but I prefer Tamiya as it seems easier to sand. This lacquer sticks really well so even with full tack tape - it rarely has any issues - I'm just cautious after my acrylic days when paint was much more delicate.
Lovely video. I have heard that clear 3d-printed resin fogs if you use IPA alcohol to clean it. Supposedly denatured alcohol from a hardware store aka "methylated spirits" or "meths" (the type that's labeled as "fuel") will not have the fogging effect. I haven't had a chance to test this yet, however.
Interesting! I have never used meths to clean but it sounds like it’s worth a try. The fogging is only on the surface so I might try polishing more with the Tamiya compounds next time.
Monty effort! Lots of clean-up with the nub marks (have you tried blasting the supports with a hair dryer to soften them before separating?), but you made those vanish skillfully. Bonus marks if, after all those failures, you resisted the Dark Side telling you to hurl the printer out the window.
Do you have any suggestions for getting rid of 'printer artifacts' like the resin strips on the model shown at 33 seconds? I've had those happen on some pieces from the same sculptor. Is there a way to clean or audit the file before printing? Also, I've used Bondo Spotting and Glazing Putty for years for filling and smoothing minor holes and scratches. It's not good for large gaps, but dries quickly and wet-sands to a super smooth finish. Great for large aircraft or automotive panels and such. Thanks for all the great content! I always learn something new.
Like I said in my last comment, that is very cool! I wonder if I can buy the files for this so I can print it Legion size!?! I don’t mean small enough where I can actually fit it in a game! I mean for it to be a realistic size in comparison to Star Wars Legion minis so that I could make a big diorama where this is low enough to let some troopers out and besides the ones going down the ropes I can just use Legion minis instead of having to make literally everything on my own or special order them! Because I love this gunship/transport a lot! And if I could make it work that it would definitely be on my list of dioramas I will make some day!!! If I could add a picture that would help dramatically for me to explain what I mean! But I get why and how that could be a problem!!!
I cannot wait for Shatterpoint to come out so I could justify buing a 3D printer and do such beautiful terrain hahaha What is the 3D printer you use? This model looks like it won't fit every printer?
Didn't the gunships in the 2D Clone Wars have the shark mouth? You probably had a far easier time than I did, back when WotC had the SW Minis stuff, there were the Transformers X Star Wars toys where the gunship was the right size, so converting those things and painting them for rpg use along with some stats people tossed together for them. Fragile pains in the rear that still looked neat when you finally managed to find all of the points to lock down for it
I’ve had a load of comments on it so yes, people spotted it! I had it on and off so many times and it’s ironically the right way round now anyway so it must have been sorted at some point!
Kathy, do you cure the resin the clip off the supports or vice versa? and what resin are you using? For the polishing i have sanding sponges up to 8000 grit then use polishing compound. I've polished some of my underwater camera port lenses and they are crystal clear
I need to try polishing compound next time. I clip supports before curing. These are extra heavy but normally I rip them off in hot water. Bigger ones snip easier whilst they’re still soft and uncured.
Thanks for making this vid!! I have a yet to be assembled on of these and the way you are clearing up your print artefacts and unfogging the glass is something I'm definitely going to do with mine! Have you got any tips for strengthening certain areas of the print? the deck of my gunship has some cracking in it and I'm wondering if that's something that can just be filled in, or does something else need to be done to it?
Good luck! I’m not sure why the deck would crack. I didn’t hollow mine (doh!) so it’s quite strong and chunky. Did you hollow yours? I also add ST Tenacious to the resin to give it a bit of resistance.
When i didn't have a 3d printer i survived by dreaming and working around problems...now i want a resin one and all the toys i can't afford ahaha. thanks for the upload
What is it about you Star Wars types that think war machines don’t need to blend in with their environments. A good fire team would begin to put rounds on that target 1/2 mile out and that’s with iron sights. Now, long long ago and even in the future camo matters.
Great work as always! For bleeding under the masking I’ve seen people spray first with the masked color to seal the tape, then whatever gets under is the same color and not visible.
Did you use Lychee as a slicer for these? I had the same errors on my Lambda class shuttle but moving to Chitubox (i'm not a fan of) seemed to clear them!
A suggestion, I use brasso to polish clear plastics to perfect transparency. I even use it on car headlights when the frost up. It’s great because it contains a very fine abrasive. Steve
looks great! I’d love to do a 3d printed studio scale B-Wing sometime, just no idea how or where to get the parts printed since I don’t have access to a printer.
I like to suggest using the red Bondo filler, easier to use, get more in the tube, easier to sand and cheaper to use. After taping everything than spray Clear over everything than paint it to stop bleeding.
Shhhh! I printed the wrong body to have the closing doors so although they live perfectly with the rear doors, they can’t actually snap closed because there isn’t enough clearance at the front.
cool ship watched the first Mando season 3 last night was cool there was a really ace scene that I thought would be a brilliant dio as it had a big creature in it :D and yes the primer or as I call it *you need to sand more here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here and here oh and here spray* each time I did a coat I spotted more sanding I needed to to 😭 especially on the legs, tummy and neck as I had moved them a bit (model horses can be difficult)
im not sure if anyone else has pointed this out or if you have fixed this yourself since, but on the finished model at the end of the video the front door panels are on the wrong sides, the left door is on the right and vice versa. im not sure if its possible to fix this at this point, but i thought id let you know just in case it is. other than that it looks amazing. i wish i had one for my legion troops.
An absolutely phenomenal build, hats off to you, stunning work! Re Clear parts, others may have already mentioned - but if you gently brush off excess resin while on the build plate, and then immediately hit with a coat of solvent rattle can clear gloss (I like upol) - and let that flow out before a little post cure - you'll get crystal clear parts! I make replica Kenner XWing canopies this way and even tho the flat shape of those isnt ideal (organic shapes always come out better), they come out as clear as originals. Quick, easy and works fantastic - honestly, do some trials as orientation on the plate has an effect, but once you nail your process you won't look back! Life is too short for sanding and polishing when it can be completely avoided 😂
@@KathyMillatt yeah - I know I know - it sounds completely counter intuitive. But when you get it nailed, it works. So, part finished print, gently brush off excess drips but definitely still leave "wet" with resin. Hit with solvent gloss lacquer while still wet. Let flow out for a bit, then maybe more lacquer, or maybe cure depending what you are seeing. I think the lacquer just works to essentially thin the uncured resin on the part - the solvents are essentially compatible - allowing it to flow out like wet paint, therefore, much smoothness! I guess it's exactly how back in the olden days with single pack cellulose paint, when painting a car, we'd always do the last coat with more thinner - a flow coat basically. Have a play, honestly, once you get it down its life changing hahaha
so damn badass. 3D printing is really the only answers to Star wars vehicles. because they are ALWAYS limited edition from hasbro. and lego is just... well lego not good enough for display
Love your work. One thing, though. You should try filling holes and seams with resin instead of putty. Just drop some on and use a HV torch/ flashlight to harden it. Then it’s exactly the same surface material.
That’s such a great idea.
Also so bigger gaps use talcum powder mixed with resin. Works well :)
When I was a kid, I had the Republic Gunship LAAT ship from the Clone Wars (I think it was the animated 2003 version, because it had a monster mouth on the front) but just watching you click all the pieces together reminded me of how the ship got put together because I think it is the exact same. The wings clip on, then the rockets on top. Good memories.
Also, you should make that variant, with the monster mouth, because that thing was cool.
Also, also, great job with the model! It looks amazing!
Great memories. One of my crashed LAATs will have the mouth!
I still have my tiger shark gunship!
@@KathyMillatt I love the look of the muunilinst 10 gunship. Glad your adding it to the moc!
That’s worth like 300-400 dollars now. It is so cool!
What a stunning model. Beautifully done as always, loving the Star Wars content!
Glad you like them! They’re so much fun to do.
I love your presentation style. Engaging commentary and no irritating background music. That ship looks great!
Thank you very much!
Great model Kathy, now looking forward to see how you use it. I think this also proves that 3d printing modelling can also be quite a challenge at times and still requires a lot of work to get the right result.
It’s a bit of a myth that 3D printing is easier. It’s different and very useful. I would be without it now.
Really love this! Id love to see you model an AT-TE
I have one printed. I just need to find the time to assemble and paint it.
thats very very nice size and build well done ,if you want my opinion because i am making resin models before it became affordable ...you dont need to use putty just use the resin it self to fill holes and seams and cure it then you can sand it down in seconds and you making your build faster like that ,nice job anyway !
I must try resin next time!
That's so beautiful!!! You're amazing Kathy.
Thank you so much!
I have recently started painting Legion miniatures, I would love to eventually make a gunship like this. This video was a great inspiration! Happy to see more Star Wars content on the channel ☺️
Glad it was helpful!
@@KathyMillatt It really was. I was just wondering could you provide a link to the enamel wash you used for the panel lining? I tried to google it and I’m not sure if my spelling is incorrect but I am not finding any result
@@CymruJedi They are Tamiya panel liners. I get mine on Amazon but they are just a convenient way of applying an enamel wash and loads of companies do those.
I tip my hat, awesome job.
Thank you! Cheers!
If you mask off around the area you apply the Tamiya putty to, you will have a lot less sanding to do, and you are at a much lower risk of damaging the surrounding decals. Also, when you polish clear parts, ignore the Tamiya polish compounds. Just use plain white toothpaste and a paper towel as your last step. That will buff everything to a crystal clear shine.
Thankfully, I placed the supports on areas where I could just sand flush. I use the masking tape trick on things like brickwork and is is a great time saver. I have the polishing compound so will give it a go. After owning it for years, it deserves some use!
This is brilliant. I love the Clone Wars so I’m really looking forward to seeing your next diorama.
It’s my favourite Star Wars and I’m looking forward to doing the diorama too.
It looks great, hard to believe it's 3D printed!
It’s amazing the results you can get with a printer.
Looks amazing! And one of my favorite designs from sci fi. Thanks for sharing your process
I love this ship too!
Looks amazing!!
Any time I have fogged plastic I use a heat gun and just pass over at 90% of the time it will make it all glossy and clear I do that with headlights etc. and it works great in most cases but you do have to be careful about overheating it because you can make it warp or bubble.
Interesting. I’ve not heard that before. I wonder if it works on resin.
Hi Kathy, I'm new to your channel. Really enjoying your art, I love how clever you are! You really brought my son's file to life! I wish I had seen some of your techniques when I was trying to help Ty paint during a busy time.. I think I could really get into this!
I'm so glad! Thank you so much. Ty is such an inspiration and I’m sure he gets that from you.
Love the LAAT! Will be looking forward to the diorama. The best thing I've found for clear parts is AK Gauzy agent. Flory models did a review of it a few years ago, it's like magic.
I’ve not heard of that but I’ll check it out. Thanks!
Hi Kathy, another stunning model, looking forward to seeing the finished diorama, take care, all the best from Scotland, Stephen.
Thanks, you too!
Ohh i need this model, the LAAT is my favorite ship
It’s a great ship!
Hi Kathy, wow, this model looks really awesome, you really did an amazing job!👍🏻🤩🙌🏻 Haha, I thought about using those failed printings for crashed ships just in the same moment you mentioned it in the Video.😅
Well, about LEDs🤓: Running different coloured LEDs from the same battery can be tricky, but it's possible: You have to connect each colour seperately in parallel to the battery, each colour with its own series resistor - a red LED chain in series with the resistor, a parallel blue chain in series with it's resistor... But you can also run red and blue LEDs in series; however, in this case the series resistor must be set to the lowest current requirement of the used LEDs (if the values for the respektive colours are different) - but of course here you cannot control properly the brightness of the different colours unlike the parallel connection.
By the way, I once saw a cool DIY for a small battery "box" for button cells built from a disposable syringe - really nice, I'll have to try it myself one day...😏
Have a great time, many greetings from Southwest Germany - Ralf🖖🏻🍀
Thanks Ralf. Some great ideas there. Love the syringe one!
You may be able to minimize the visible printing artifacts like layer lines by adjusting your anti-aliasing settings in your 3D print slicer. You'll have to experiment to find out what works best for you and your primary resin, though.
I always feel I should experiment more but there’s relatively few on the ship thankfully.
Great presentation. Clear & concise with good techniques, clear audio, and discussion of your references - A+. The end result is beautiful.❤
Extra credit for no annoying THUMPING music! 👏
You now have a new subscriber from Los Angeles! I'll go see more of your videos now. 🙂
Thanks! And thanks for subscribing.
Hey Kathy, some feedback: after you fully wash and then cure the model with the supports on: I use a dremel with cutting disc and cut / grind the supports away leaving 1mm of support on the model. I see you used clippers in some areas and that's good too. I never rip off supports because they leave the holes as you experienced. Once all supports are ground off and 1mm nubs left, change to a diamond carbide fine grinding drum and easily grind away the support stumps. Do it properly and you will have a perfect surface left. Looks really great! Do this with a dust mitigation vacuum system and respirator!
Sounds good. I prefer to wet sand now to avoid any resin dust getting around the room.
OMG you are amazing, thank you for including the things that didn't work as well. We are all human and not everything works straight up and it's about problem solving. The final result is gorgeous, I thought it was a good 3D render, but it's a killer final product...
Thank you so much!
For the transparent pieces try SE Johnson future floor finish (name has been changed). After your final polish, dip it in the polish and let it drain/dry on a paper towel.
I’m be always struggled to find the right version but I’ve always seen good things about it for canopies.
Great job, I have yet to make one of these with their respective clones inside, I'll take you as a reference, I really like the final result. ❤
Thank you so much!
Hi Kathy, the LED problem you mentioned is because the different colour LED's operate at slightly different volt drops across the diode. So the diode with the lowest volt drop gets the power and the other one doesn't. The easy solution is to use a separate dropper resistor for each one. For a bi-colour LED you would need 2 resistors. You can check this with your multi meter on the "Diode Check" range, which show you the forward volt drop across the diode. Red diodes always seem to be about 1.4v, but blue diodes seem to come out at about 1.8v. This volt drop is fixed because the LED is a semiconductor. So if you have blue and red in parallel, the red holds the voltage too low for the blue to work. The technique I would use is to raise the voltage of your battery pack to higher than the highest diode volt drop, and fit resistors so that the resistor volt drop = battery voltage - diode volt drop. The calculation for the resistor value is ohms law, R = (Batt volts - Diode volts) / Current. Assume 20mA for diode current as a start and vary the resistor to vary the illumination you want. Sorry to appear patronising, and if you already knew this, I apologise.....
Love the painting, weathering my trains is next, they are far too shiny.
Pete S.
Thanks! I knew there would be an answer so thank you.
Great video! I’ll add this to my playlist for all the things I wanna paint but will never get around to🤣in seriousness though this paint job is done very well! Excited for the crashed gunship concept because you can make some cool dioramas including a clone last stand of sorts
I like the idea of a last stand!
Great video as always. With the resulting Gun Ship being amazing. Wonderful.
Thanks Norm.
Just discovered your channel and I am really impressed with your work and especially the scratch made electronics, subscribed so I can see more of your awesome work.
Thank you!
Nice print and finishing.
The gunship is not only a looker but the engine purr it makes is glorious, I believe Lucas liked to use WW2 fighter engine noises for the ships, great choice.
I do love this design too.
That is an awesome build, it must be a great sense of achievement building the entire model from scratch, i could have watched an hour or two of your weathering techniques, the finish you have on the model is outstanding really good
Digger, thank you very much!
That is a gorgeous model! You should do an AT-TE to go with it for your scene! Keep 'em coming! \m/
Dark Fire Designs have an AT-TE model so it’s on the (very long) list.
I would very much like to have an SLA 3D printer, it is my dream to produce 3D models of figurines, but I have a panic fear of health risks, resin toxicity.
Could you make a video on this topic sometime?
Health risks are a real concern. I was planning on doing some member videos on it after I finish my FDM series.
Every time I see a Republic Gunship I cant help but to hear "Fortunate Son" by Creedence Clearwater Revival.
Nice work.
Thanks!
this is great.....i just did a 3d printed 1/18th razor crest on my channel
Nice!
Awesome job! Surely such a model has needed an incredible amount of time, I'm eager to see how the diorama will be done.
You and me both! It’s painted but I’m stalled n the figures as I try and get my Kickstarter designs pulled together.
One man’s print imperfections are another man’s battle damage 🤷🏻♂️😂
So true!
Stunning model.
With respect to Reed switches....I always buy ones with three terminals......one terminal is a common, the other two are a 'usually on' and the other is a 'usually off'......so you can pick which behaviour you want.
That’s a neat idea.
Magnificent work! It came out really well.
Thank you very much!
You reminded my as to why I love the LAAT…. I wanna make one for my black series and model kit builds
That would be big but so cool!
@@KathyMillatt haha yes! That’s why I’d only build one though
Late to the game here- decided to purchase some of the 3.75 LAAT's, and modify them with my printer. Just an FYI- in this still pic- your front swing doors are on backwards- the "notch" goes to the other door to seal it... Great Job on the paint. Defiantly inspirational for when I go to repaint mine.
Thanks and yeah, I put the doors back on the right way round. They’d been on and off so much fixing the LEDs
Great job Kathy , love the Star Wars Tech , but the models have become too expensive . Yours is a nice size , how heavy do they come out ?? Best wishes from Wales .😍😍
I didn’t hollow this particularly so it’s heavier than it needs to be, especially at the back. It’s not too heavy though.
Only recently discovered your channel. That was amazing.
Glad you enjoy it!
awesome model, i reccomend for clear parts using tamiya polishing compound you can get a glass like finish, sand it up to 4000 grit then use the medium fine and finish compounds, you truly get a perfectly clear result
Thanks! I have had some for years so will try it next time.
For the LEDS the red I believe require a lower voltage to than the blue before they "turn on". Would likely need a little more voltage for the blue and a little less for the red.
I don't know about electronics the way you do but on a breadboard I would run a wire to the blue LED's with a higher voltage around 3 volts, then add some resistance to drop the voltage down to 2 for the red LED's. Idk what was wrong with your circuit because I would have to put it on paper and solve for value's then test it.
Likely you were running a battery pack that was supplying ~ 2.5 V which would turn on the Red's but not the Blue's. You would need 3 + V for the Blues.
This is very interesting I am tempted to create this circuit myself and work around the value's and see how to connect LED"s in parallel and series configurations.
I have only ever tested a single LED at a time in my lecture courses with different currents and voltages mapping out a graph with the values.
It is definitely to do with the voltage requirements being lower but it was quicker for me to split than to think it all through. Next time I will think! If you do work it out, I’d be fascinated to see the results.
It's incredible! please fill in with some figures, Clones, Ahsoka, Anakin.
That’s the plan. I have Ashoka, Rex and Jesse painted plus loads of seared weary clones but my job modeling keeps getting in the way!
Amazing job! 👏
Can you please link the product from Tamiya that you used for panel lining? Looks great! Tnks in advance
It’s Tamiya panel liner. I bought mine on Amazon but it’s not listed there right now.
Try perfect plastic putty I find it works better than the tamyia stuff.
Also as far as masking goes, give it a coat of clear after the primer/white coat that way the base layers are protected and you don’t have to take the tact away from the tape.
Lovely work I’ve been meaning to print it.
I have some perfect plastic putty but I prefer Tamiya as it seems easier to sand. This lacquer sticks really well so even with full tack tape - it rarely has any issues - I'm just cautious after my acrylic days when paint was much more delicate.
Lovely video. I have heard that clear 3d-printed resin fogs if you use IPA alcohol to clean it. Supposedly denatured alcohol from a hardware store aka "methylated spirits" or "meths" (the type that's labeled as "fuel") will not have the fogging effect. I haven't had a chance to test this yet, however.
Interesting! I have never used meths to clean but it sounds like it’s worth a try. The fogging is only on the surface so I might try polishing more with the Tamiya compounds next time.
It looks amazing, I wish Hasbro would release something of this quality.
One thing though, I think the front doors were put on backwards.
Just for this photo. They’re fixed now!
Monty effort! Lots of clean-up with the nub marks (have you tried blasting the supports with a hair dryer to soften them before separating?), but you made those vanish skillfully. Bonus marks if, after all those failures, you resisted the Dark Side telling you to hurl the printer out the window.
Thanks! I use hot water rather than a hair dryer but these supports are too thick for either technique so snipping is the only I’m afraid.
Do you have any suggestions for getting rid of 'printer artifacts' like the resin strips on the model shown at 33 seconds? I've had those happen on some pieces from the same sculptor. Is there a way to clean or audit the file before printing? Also, I've used Bondo Spotting and Glazing Putty for years for filling and smoothing minor holes and scratches. It's not good for large gaps, but dries quickly and wet-sands to a super smooth finish. Great for large aircraft or automotive panels and such. Thanks for all the great content! I always learn something new.
I got rid of these artifacts by reslicing but sanding us the only other way I know.
Like I said in my last comment, that is very cool! I wonder if I can buy the files for this so I can print it Legion size!?! I don’t mean small enough where I can actually fit it in a game! I mean for it to be a realistic size in comparison to Star Wars Legion minis so that I could make a big diorama where this is low enough to let some troopers out and besides the ones going down the ropes I can just use Legion minis instead of having to make literally everything on my own or special order them! Because I love this gunship/transport a lot! And if I could make it work that it would definitely be on my list of dioramas I will make some day!!! If I could add a picture that would help dramatically for me to explain what I mean! But I get why and how that could be a problem!!!
This is Legion scale and it’s from Dark Fire Designs.
Very Inspiring - thanks so much. I currently have a MKII viper and the Razor Crest just waiting for some attention like this.
Sounds fun. Both are awesome designs.
I cannot wait for Shatterpoint to come out so I could justify buing a 3D printer and do such beautiful terrain hahaha
What is the 3D printer you use? This model looks like it won't fit every printer?
It’s designed to fit in any printer. It’s just split into more pieces for the smaller ones.
Very nice! I love the paint.
It looks like your forward doors may need to be swapped, though. They seem to be backwards!
They are but I’d already swapped them back when I went to check!
Didn't the gunships in the 2D Clone Wars have the shark mouth?
You probably had a far easier time than I did, back when WotC had the SW Minis stuff, there were the Transformers X Star Wars toys where the gunship was the right size, so converting those things and painting them for rpg use along with some stats people tossed together for them. Fragile pains in the rear that still looked neat when you finally managed to find all of the points to lock down for it
Fordo’s gunship in the 2D series did have a mouth but the main TCW gun ships had less dramatic nose art and many didn’t have any.
Magnificent model, however the front door is inversed, I don't know if you saw it or someone noticed it, but anyway it's breathtaking, nice work ^^
I’ve had a load of comments on it so yes, people spotted it! I had it on and off so many times and it’s ironically the right way round now anyway so it must have been sorted at some point!
カッコ良すぎる
スターウォーズの中でもトップクラスに好きな機体です
Thank you!
Kathy, do you cure the resin the clip off the supports or vice versa? and what resin are you using?
For the polishing i have sanding sponges up to 8000 grit then use polishing compound. I've polished some of my underwater camera port lenses and they are crystal clear
I need to try polishing compound next time. I clip supports before curing. These are extra heavy but normally I rip them off in hot water. Bigger ones snip easier whilst they’re still soft and uncured.
Thanks for making this vid!!
I have a yet to be assembled on of these and the way you are clearing up your print artefacts and unfogging the glass is something I'm definitely going to do with mine!
Have you got any tips for strengthening certain areas of the print? the deck of my gunship has some cracking in it and I'm wondering if that's something that can just be filled in, or does something else need to be done to it?
Good luck! I’m not sure why the deck would crack. I didn’t hollow mine (doh!) so it’s quite strong and chunky. Did you hollow yours? I also add ST Tenacious to the resin to give it a bit of resistance.
When i didn't have a 3d printer i survived by dreaming and working around problems...now i want a resin one and all the toys i can't afford ahaha.
thanks for the upload
I find myself doing things on my 3D printer that would be easier just to do the old fashioned ways. New toys!
Hello Kathy, to print the republic gunship you advise me which printer? thanks
I used a big resin printer but it’s sliced so you can print it on any sized resin printer.
What is it about you Star Wars types that think war machines don’t need to blend in with their environments. A good fire team would begin to put rounds on that target 1/2 mile out and that’s with iron sights. Now, long long ago and even in the future camo matters.
I guess their scanners would show it’s coming anyway…
Great work as always! For bleeding under the masking I’ve seen people spray first with the masked color to seal the tape, then whatever gets under is the same color and not visible.
That’s a great tip. A clear varnish can also work. I was just being lazy! The worst areas are overspray beyond the masking tape…
Siege of Mandalore, eh? Looking forward to season three of The Mandalorian?
Just finishing my chronological rewatch of SW from the beginning including all the TV series. Can’t wait for Mando part 3.
Did you use Lychee as a slicer for these? I had the same errors on my Lambda class shuttle but moving to Chitubox (i'm not a fan of) seemed to clear them!
I did use Lychee. I moved away from Chitubox because it was taking hours (no exaggeration) to slice the files on my Mac.
A suggestion, I use brasso to polish clear plastics to perfect transparency. I even use it on car headlights when the frost up. It’s great because it contains a very fine abrasive. Steve
I remember polishing brass with that as a child! Thanks for the tip.
you have a magical tv, and you just pulled that out of the screen. change my mind
I wish!
looks great! I’d love to do a 3d printed studio scale B-Wing sometime, just no idea how or where to get the parts printed since I don’t have access to a printer.
You can commission 3D prints but if you have space, the price of printers has come down so much. Mind you, studio scale is big!
I like to suggest using the red Bondo filler, easier to use, get more in the tube, easier to sand and cheaper to use.
After taping everything than spray Clear over everything than paint it to stop bleeding.
I don’t really see Bondo in the UK. I do have a car body filler but it stinks even worse!
inspired by mil 35 russian attack helicopter
Really? It’s a striking design.
Amazing work. What kind of 3D printer do you use?
I have a wide range so take your pick. This was mostly printed on my Peopoly Phenom and Elegoo Mars 3.
Looks absolutely amazing! The front 2 doors are the wrong way round tho
They’re right now so I guess I must have fixed them. They’re on and off so much.
Are the forward swing doors mounted the right way around? To me it looks like it wouldn't line up with the rear doors if they would swing shut.
Shhhh! I printed the wrong body to have the closing doors so although they live perfectly with the rear doors, they can’t actually snap closed because there isn’t enough clearance at the front.
cool ship watched the first Mando season 3 last night was cool there was a really ace scene that I thought would be a brilliant dio as it had a big creature in it :D and yes the primer or as I call it *you need to sand more here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here and here oh and here spray* each time I did a coat I spotted more sanding I needed to to 😭 especially on the legs, tummy and neck as I had moved them a bit (model horses can be difficult)
It was a great scene but the creature is way beyond my skills!
Great build, what about finish or some other product for the canopy?
I think it needs polishing out more so next time I’ll use Tamiya polishing compounds.
im not sure if anyone else has pointed this out or if you have fixed this yourself since, but on the finished model at the end of the video the front door panels are on the wrong sides, the left door is on the right and vice versa. im not sure if its possible to fix this at this point, but i thought id let you know just in case it is. other than that it looks amazing. i wish i had one for my legion troops.
Oops, yes, I took them on and off so many times sorting the wiring. Very easily fixed! Thanks.
Could be wrong but aren’t the front doors on the wrong way round? The groves for the rest doors don’t match the front
Oops. I did have them on and off for wiring so many times. Easily fixed though. 😁
This looks amazing, it looks soft to touch like its straight out of the clone wars animation style Its amazing do you sell these cuz I want one!
Thank you. I don’t sell them I’m afraid.
Enjoyed this vid and your skills are top notch!
Thank you so much.
An absolutely phenomenal build, hats off to you, stunning work!
Re Clear parts, others may have already mentioned - but if you gently brush off excess resin while on the build plate, and then immediately hit with a coat of solvent rattle can clear gloss (I like upol) - and let that flow out before a little post cure - you'll get crystal clear parts!
I make replica Kenner XWing canopies this way and even tho the flat shape of those isnt ideal (organic shapes always come out better), they come out as clear as originals.
Quick, easy and works fantastic - honestly, do some trials as orientation on the plate has an effect, but once you nail your process you won't look back!
Life is too short for sanding and polishing when it can be completely avoided 😂
Thanks for the tip. Just to check, you spray clear gloss on uncured resin then cure it?
@@KathyMillatt yeah - I know I know - it sounds completely counter intuitive. But when you get it nailed, it works.
So, part finished print, gently brush off excess drips but definitely still leave "wet" with resin.
Hit with solvent gloss lacquer while still wet.
Let flow out for a bit, then maybe more lacquer, or maybe cure depending what you are seeing.
I think the lacquer just works to essentially thin the uncured resin on the part - the solvents are essentially compatible - allowing it to flow out like wet paint, therefore, much smoothness!
I guess it's exactly how back in the olden days with single pack cellulose paint, when painting a car, we'd always do the last coat with more thinner - a flow coat basically.
Have a play, honestly, once you get it down its life changing hahaha
I will definitely try it next time I need clear! Thank you.
Beautiful Gunship. Greetings
Many thanks
aside from the pelican drop ship from halo. This has got to be one of the most beautiful transport ships created
Definitely!
How many years have you been modeling and painting to become that good?
I’ve been doing it my whole life but more in the last twenty years. It’s definitely partly experience and practice.
What’s that thing called that u use for the panel line on the gunship ?
It's Tamiya Panel Liner - basically an enamel wash but in a handy bottle with brush
Next Star Ship Enterprise
You are really cool! And your ship.
My son Gordey is happy! 🙂🤯
Happy to hear that!
you could also get sand paper up to 10k grit to make an even clearer surface
I should have done a bit more. I have the Tamiya polishing compounds and will try those next time.
awesome build, we need some clones inside that gun ship, pt2?
Part 2. Although they’re more sat around it as you can’t get that many in there!
Also, fantastic job on this! I need a bigger printer haha
They do the ship broken into smaller parts for smaller printers so don’t let that put you off!
ahhh man, i need to use this and make it a tad bigger to fit 3.75 inch figures. its now a must
It definitely is!
Amazing work!
Thanks a lot!
Any chance you'll do a clone wars y-wing in the future
I’d love to do more ships. My next one is a half done Marauder from the Bad Batch but I’d love to do a Y-wing.
What printer do you use I've been wanting one for years
I have 7 but the two resin ones I use are a Peopoly Phenom and a Elegoo Mars 3.
I've seen other people use acetone on the clear parts to make them clearer, not sure how it will work on resin
I’m not sure it would work on resin but on ABS it would have an effect.
so damn badass. 3D printing is really the only answers to Star wars vehicles. because they are ALWAYS limited edition from hasbro. and lego is just... well lego not good enough for display
I agree on Lego and I can’t afford Hasbro so this is definitely the way.
@@KathyMillatt this is the way
Привет. Ты случайно не имеешь модель дроида B1 или pitdroid?
I have seen them around but I don’t I’m afraid.
Just one thing, you put the small doors on the wrong sides
I took them off so many times! They’re sorted now.