I really enjoy these Parkerizing videos, and not just because it's my favorite firearm finish. You really do a great job with these videos. Your buddy did a great job with that stock also. Especially considering it's condition before the refurbish.
I’ve been watching your videos for years. Another awesome video brother. Thank you! Thank you for your service as well! I was in Baghdad from 04-09, first with Big Army 04-05 and then with DOD & DOS. Maybe we crossed paths. Small world.
The rust looks like that resulting from Hydrochloric Acid ( HCl or Muriatic Acid). This can be from storing pool acid or HCl in the same room as finished metal. It could have been from a fire as well, as there is a lot of common paints , furniture, and household items that contain PVC, Polyvinyl Chloride. When PVC is involved in a fire, it gives off HCl or Phosgene, which reacts with water to make HCl. No pool acid around finished metal.
Would be good to hear from you about plugging the barrel to avoid parking inside the barrel; when/ why to plug the barrel and when/ why not to. Might be interesting to see how you address more difficult to plug situations. Thanks for the video!
FYI for OP: If they were in a fire, they didn't have to burn or even get hot for that rust to occur. The hot smoke and resulting soot is highly toxic and corrosive. When it contacts almost anything metal it bonds to it and what you have is the result. My attached garage burned to the ground but didn't make it into the house. Even so, everything metal in the house corroded and rusted just like your guns. Anything that came in contact with the smoke/soot was trashed.
Locate the park tanks near an exhaust fan, the caustic nature of the fumes from it will rust everything in your shop. Its also not good to be breathing it for any length of time. Nice work, done a fair bit of it myself and love the results.
Thanks man i watched this about four years ago made a stainless tank got an ultrasonic washer sand blast cabinet i did a bunch of guns for my buddies and made some my own guns look great
Hi- You have done your research! At 8:29 you mention the low burner temperature. This is very important, as it helps minimize the dramatic increase of total acid and metal precipitation in your Mn phos chemistry. In short, it helps keep the 'good stuff' in the phosphating bath.
Wonder how many subs Eric had back when this video was posted ? I guarantee you he didn't think that 6 years later he'd be about to break the 1 Million barrier !!!!!!
fire can liberate/steam etc water into the air and then it condenses on any cold surface, i made a hell of a mess of my workshop by having a butane heater in there one winter, in a few hours use it rusted my lathe/bandsaw etc, took ages with wire wool and oil to get everything back to normal.
I would suggest boiling the metal for 45 min-hour before parking to convert the rust to bluing. If you don't then you could trap rust and it will continue to corrode after parkerizing.
Quick way to show how a ultra sonic system works is to get a square wire frame and put one sheet of aluminum foil on it, dunk in the system and it will show the marks where the system waves hit. Pretty cool and functional test for yr system
the process is actually replacing the surface metal of the barrel with manganese its a single replacement/double replacement (depending on what the barrel is made of) chemical reaction.
Another thing I wish you had mentioned is the inside of the barrel. I may end up doing this to my m4 barrel BUT my m4 has a chrome lined barrel and even if it didn't I wouldn't want a textured coating and so, how do you prevent this process from affecting the inside of the barrel?
I believe he's referring to it being unfortunate that it was in the fire. Arisakas are quite rare, especially early models that were properly constructed.
I know its been a while since your question but it is a very good question and should be answered in case others have the same question. The answer is yes you should certainly plug the bore as parkerizing is actually etching the metal. Basically it is corroding it which is exactly why if you sand to 400 grit instead of bead blasting the sanding scratches melt away and gives pretty much the same finish. So if it is capable of dissolving the sanding scratches imagine what it would do to rifling. Not plugging would likely ruin the rifling especially in cases they are using micro-rifling process such as Marlin uses. Traditionally guns are blued which is adding a coat of iron oxide and converting it to black oxide which gives the impression the parkerizing process does similar but it does not. It does not add anything to the metal but converts the surface to a more porous surface ready to accept a finish. In a lot of cases it is either paint or oil which finishes it. Parkerized parts left untreated with oil will rust and start to corrode and it does not inhibit rusting at all that is the job of the oil that seeps into the tiny holes in the surface. So why does Parkerized military guns last? The answer is cosmoline and it is seeped so deep into the surface pores it then protects it without a need to oil often and I think everyone knows how hard i is to remove cosmoline. FYI if you parkerize a part and choose to oil it and then decide you would rather paint the surface to further protect it then heat the part with a heat gun to where the oil is smoking and drying up and drop it in acetone this opens the pores and the acetone is allowed to clean them out and then you should be ok to paint the surface with something like matte black ceramic engine paint or header paint. Both are literally the same as duracoat but a bit cheaper and more available at auto part stores and need to be baked to harden the ceramic in it as well. Doing the paint will completely eliminate the need to oil as long as it is not ever chipped or scratched. However it is honestly easier to just keep the surface oiled. I am currently trying to fill the pores with a graphite grease I picked up on a 1911 slide because it is a dry lubricant and the grease should inhibit rust while the graphite should keep it smooth. I only applied it to the rails and locking lugs and the ejector area it slides through if you do the whole slide you would probably have black hands after every use of the gun. What it should also do is make people only have to lap the rails to their 80% builds as the graphite grease should be held in place on the rough lapped surface or someone could spend 6 hours finely polishing the rails lol.
The rust was most likely from the steam created during extinguishment, seeing as the stock seemed to shelter the metal from moisture, if it had direct exposure to water, the surface tension of the water would of wicked it well past the stock
Thanks so much. Although my Dad was a gunsmith and specialized in bluing, he got out of it when I was young and I never understood it really. He passed 25 years ago, so I can't ask. He probably knew about Parkerizing, may have done it, I don't know. I want to use this process on some antique replica motorcycles I've built. What type of oil do you use at the end of this process?
Great video! Very instructional. I have a question, I just picked up some parkerizing tanks but they are a little rusty. How clean do they need to be as to not affect the process?
Any experience on how the parkerizing finish would look like if you do it on polished surface? No biggie if no reply. I will find out in 3-6 months anyway thanks to your videos. ;)
All you need is high quality RO water around 15ppm or less for awesome results, Tap water which is 300-400+ppm is absolutely awful. Nice work dude. Fuk the haters!!!!
I have a beat up sistema colt 1911 that'll be getting parked. This video was really handy, and actually, I was dreading this project, but it doesn't really look to be that horrible to attempt. haha.
what about the inside of the barrel?... I'm currently bringing back my old ak 47 that I gave to my dad (with roughly 500 rds fired at the time) and he used it as a stash gun while I was away and it suffered water damage for an extended period of time until he checked on it and found that moisture had gotten to it... I walked into the shop one day and found him buffing it with a wire wheel on a 4" grinder and I hastily took it from him... thankfully my ex got me a blasting cabinet before she left and I was able to take it down to fresh metal and clean it up... I had wanted to cerakote it all but skimped out and bought gunkote instead just to simplify it somewhat... now I'm thinking that there's going to be a lot of unprotected areas or even worse some clogged ones but thankfully it's a Kalashnikov and should work regardless of how it looks afterwards. any advice from you with this project would be greatly appreciated.
Excellent video. Very informative. Im only left with a few questions... in your after display of the freshly parkerized parts I can see lines of what seem like rust... is thT what it is and why?
Parkerizing changes dimensions so what do you do to protect machined and mating surfaces? For example, machined pinholes and rails should not be Parkerized. How can these surfaces be protected from Parkerizing?
You might mention that the gloves you're using to handle the dirty and oily parts are to keep your hands clean. Those gloves get dirty and oily, just as your hands would, so you do not handle the clean metal parts with those dirty gloves. They aren't magic gloves that automatically stay clean when handling dirty and oily parts. Use clean gloves to handle clean parts.
if i just want to parkerize a bayonet could i just microwave the solution in a glass container kind of the same idea as your parkerizing small parts video?
No need to plug the barrel? I’m going to attempt to mag phos an old WW1 auto pistol. If I want to plug the barrel to make sure no tolerances are affected, what material could I use to plug barrel that the mag phos will not dissolve or affect? I was thinking of filling barrel with caulking but not sure if mag phos will eat it up and plus not sure how tough it’d be to clean up. Especially getting it out of the barrel grooves. Any help would be appreciated. Thank y’all.
Sweat, Seawater, Exposure to Mildly Acid Products or just Long Term Storage in a "gun rug" or Safe that is NOT designed to Hold Firearms will absolutely DESTROY the Fine Blued Finish on a Firearm- And leave a Rust Pitted Mess. If you own weapons- You will be doing this.
@Iraqveteran8888 It's a mixture of age discrimination, and the ease of training a new guy do do things the way you want. My old CO used to say you better know how to do your job, and have the piece of paper to prove it; because, at the end of the day people will trust a school more than you, but if you can back up your degree or certificate, you can climb the ladder faster.
I have a Remington Model 11, 12ga that i need to have refinished? Did this one cycle once parkerized (since barrel retracts into the receiver)? And what would you charge to park or reblue one of these?
An interesting process. As others have said, a little less conversation is needed. Knock it down by 5 mins or so. Daft question, why are you packing iron at 10:22?! Keep the videos coming, all very interesting!
How do you maintain a parkerized finish? When I attempt to apply a coating of oil the applicator (patches, tshirt, etc) always leave major fibers. Also after applying oil (balistol, clp, hoppes) it seems to work like a dust magnet.
its proably possible to remove the rust electrochemically if you don't happen to have access to an ultrasonic cleaner. all you should need is a salt, baking soda, water solution and a piece of aluminum or copper and maybe a battery (esp if you use copper) anyway what Temp are you heating the solution to???
Hey man, I have a question. I am doing Zinc phosphate, and I have read that for the first time you mix the solution, you are supposed to add iron powder, then you never have to add more again. But, I've never heard if this or seen anything else on it... ? Do you know anything about this? And can you give me some insight on what my solution mix to water ratio should be for zinc? Thank you so much
Could you list the basics ingredients necessary to parkerized please. I believe a main ingredient is phosphoric acid (ospho) correct? We use it in our shop all the time & get it for less than $20 a gallon. It would be nice if this was the case.
where did u get the long tank? I have some 22" plus barrels I wanna do and I cant find anything that long. Also what about the bore? should it be plugged prior to the dip?
if they are chrome plated barrels it wont parkerize. The Arisaka type 99 has a chrome plated barrel. as for the shotguns i don't think it will matter since they are smooth-bore.
I get that it's not an issue with a smooth bore shotgun, but what about if its a rifled barrel? Wouldn't dunking it in a that solution screw up the inside and the rifling?
Every gunsmith I've talked to about this highly recommends plugging the bore. There's a reason why they are usually left shiny. I wouldn't want to etch that nice smooth finish in there.
I imagine the guns were most likely inside a safe during the fire. The stocks usually turn to charcoal. I have only heard about this once before in a safe advertisment.
are those watering troughs for cattle or swine? they look like it!. good video always been interested in parkerizing but thought it was much harder for some reason.
Dud" Next time use simple green marine. Used the simple green on my big boat for 22 years and broke my ass with a brush getting the aluminum lines from the windshield off the fiberglass of the boat went to napa auto one day for car parts and they had simple green marine i grab it. and no crap don't have to use a brush at all it's sprayed on and hose it off unbelievable stuff!!! but not so ez to find? look on line for it. You will be a real happy boy. It's a night and day cleaner-degreaser!
Damn, been parkerizing for a long time now and I seem to have relatively successful at many jobs. A friend of mine recently asked me to park his worn out Beretta in.32 Cal. Small pieces (trigger, guide rod, mag follower, etc) parked really nice but the slide is not. Slide comes out of the park solution looking very black, even and holding on (even after brushing with a nylon brush). Then after a couple of days in oil the thing turns light colour again, as if the Park wasn't holding. Any ideas?
i have a ptr91 reciever in the white that i want to parkerize. now, if i put it in the solution like that, its gonna parkerize the inside aswell, is that gonna cause any trouble with the bolt running inside it later?
![ROSÉ(로제) - APT. (Band VER.) (With. 이영지) [더 시즌즈-이영지의 레인보우] | KBS 241129 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IW8qaemx74g/mqdefault.jpg)
![Digital Circus Episode 4 [TRAILER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/abZtsmMUbJo/mqdefault.jpg)
I really enjoy these Parkerizing videos, and not just because it's my favorite firearm finish. You really do a great job with these videos. Your buddy did a great job with that stock also. Especially considering it's condition before the refurbish.
Wish you could remake all these old gunsmithing videos with Chad helping film and narrate more with better quality... Would be nice to see!
I’ve been watching your videos for years. Another awesome video brother. Thank you! Thank you for your service as well! I was in Baghdad from 04-09, first with Big Army 04-05 and then with DOD & DOS. Maybe we crossed paths. Small world.
The rust looks like that resulting from Hydrochloric Acid ( HCl or Muriatic Acid). This can be from storing pool acid or HCl in the same room as finished metal. It could have been from a fire as well, as there is a lot of common paints , furniture, and household items that contain PVC, Polyvinyl Chloride. When PVC is involved in a fire, it gives off HCl or Phosgene, which reacts with water to make HCl. No pool acid around finished metal.
Would be good to hear from you about plugging the barrel to avoid parking inside the barrel; when/ why to plug the barrel and when/ why not to. Might be interesting to see how you address more difficult to plug situations.
Thanks for the video!
FYI for OP: If they were in a fire, they didn't have to burn or even get hot for that rust to occur. The hot smoke and resulting soot is highly toxic and corrosive. When it contacts almost anything metal it bonds to it and what you have is the result. My attached garage burned to the ground but didn't make it into the house. Even so, everything metal in the house corroded and rusted just like your guns. Anything that came in contact with the smoke/soot was trashed.
Locate the park tanks near an exhaust fan, the caustic nature of the fumes from it will rust everything in your shop. Its also not good to be breathing it for any length of time.
Nice work, done a fair bit of it myself and love the results.
Hi,
Thank you so much for your upload, I can hardly wait to see how you regenerate the original finish or even better!
Thanks man i watched this about four years ago made a stainless tank got an ultrasonic washer sand blast cabinet i did a bunch of guns for my buddies and made some my own guns look great
Hi-
You have done your research! At 8:29 you mention the low burner temperature. This is very important, as it helps minimize the dramatic increase of total acid and metal precipitation in your Mn phos chemistry. In short, it helps keep the 'good stuff' in the phosphating bath.
Simple Green, the best cleaning product Ive ever used.
Wonder how many subs Eric had back when this video was posted ? I guarantee you he didn't think that 6 years later he'd be about to break the 1 Million barrier !!!!!!
@BlackHeartModer You never want to park a bore that is rifled. Always plug them.
COOL! Its great how youre going into detail about some little things that arnt often discussed. Bravo!
fire can liberate/steam etc water into the air and then it condenses on any cold surface, i made a hell of a mess of my workshop by having a butane heater in there one winter, in a few hours use it rusted my lathe/bandsaw etc, took ages with wire wool and oil to get everything back to normal.
Great video, a quick engineering lesson: metal heated to high temperatures oxidizes at a high rate. This may be why this rust occurred.
Nice video... more detailed and more accurate than some others on this site! Great work!
I would suggest boiling the metal for 45 min-hour before parking to convert the rust to bluing. If you don't then you could trap rust and it will continue to corrode after parkerizing.
great vid , i had no idea you could do this at home, not that i would
thanks for your time
roger
Quick way to show how a ultra sonic system works is to get a square wire frame and put one sheet of aluminum foil on it, dunk in the system and it will show the marks where the system waves hit. Pretty cool and functional test for yr system
man you and marshalzukov definately know how to restore a rifle thats been through hell and back
the process is actually replacing the surface metal of the barrel with manganese its a single replacement/double replacement (depending on what the barrel is made of) chemical reaction.
looks like one i just got done restoring, thankfully those Arisakas have chrome lined barrels so they last forever
Nice video, you explain things very well. Thanks for making such a detailed video.
Another thing I wish you had mentioned is the inside of the barrel. I may end up doing this to my m4 barrel BUT my m4 has a chrome lined barrel and even if it didn't I wouldn't want a textured coating and so, how do you prevent this process from affecting the inside of the barrel?
I believe he's referring to it being unfortunate that it was in the fire. Arisakas are quite rare, especially early models that were properly constructed.
The smoke and heat will make metal rust in a fire. The moisture kicks the process off, and the heat speeds up the chemical reaction.
Great video, do you seal the rifle bore pre Parkerizing. The tank I use was from E Bay a simple large stainless steel fish boiler £ 15 Uk inc postal
I know its been a while since your question but it is a very good question and should be answered in case others have the same question.
The answer is yes you should certainly plug the bore as parkerizing is actually etching the metal. Basically it is corroding it which is exactly why if you sand to 400 grit instead of bead blasting the sanding scratches melt away and gives pretty much the same finish. So if it is capable of dissolving the sanding scratches imagine what it would do to rifling. Not plugging would likely ruin the rifling especially in cases they are using micro-rifling process such as Marlin uses.
Traditionally guns are blued which is adding a coat of iron oxide and converting it to black oxide which gives the impression the parkerizing process does similar but it does not. It does not add anything to the metal but converts the surface to a more porous surface ready to accept a finish. In a lot of cases it is either paint or oil which finishes it. Parkerized parts left untreated with oil will rust and start to corrode and it does not inhibit rusting at all that is the job of the oil that seeps into the tiny holes in the surface.
So why does Parkerized military guns last? The answer is cosmoline and it is seeped so deep into the surface pores it then protects it without a need to oil often and I think everyone knows how hard i is to remove cosmoline.
FYI if you parkerize a part and choose to oil it and then decide you would rather paint the surface to further protect it then heat the part with a heat gun to where the oil is smoking and drying up and drop it in acetone this opens the pores and the acetone is allowed to clean them out and then you should be ok to paint the surface with something like matte black ceramic engine paint or header paint. Both are literally the same as duracoat but a bit cheaper and more available at auto part stores and need to be baked to harden the ceramic in it as well. Doing the paint will completely eliminate the need to oil as long as it is not ever chipped or scratched. However it is honestly easier to just keep the surface oiled.
I am currently trying to fill the pores with a graphite grease I picked up on a 1911 slide because it is a dry lubricant and the grease should inhibit rust while the graphite should keep it smooth. I only applied it to the rails and locking lugs and the ejector area it slides through if you do the whole slide you would probably have black hands after every use of the gun. What it should also do is make people only have to lap the rails to their 80% builds as the graphite grease should be held in place on the rough lapped surface or someone could spend 6 hours finely polishing the rails lol.
If you are parkerizing a rifled barrel, is it okay to let the solution get inside, or do you have to block up the barrel before dipping?
The rust was most likely from the steam created during extinguishment, seeing as the stock seemed to shelter the metal from moisture, if it had direct exposure to water, the surface tension of the water would of wicked it well past the stock
Thanks so much. Although my Dad was a gunsmith and specialized in bluing, he got out of it when I was young and I never understood it really. He passed 25 years ago, so I can't ask. He probably knew about Parkerizing, may have done it, I don't know. I want to use this process on some antique replica motorcycles I've built. What type of oil do you use at the end of this process?
Great video! Very instructional. I have a question, I just picked up some parkerizing tanks but they are a little rusty. How clean do they need to be as to not affect the process?
Any experience on how the parkerizing finish would look like if you do it on polished surface? No biggie if no reply. I will find out in 3-6 months anyway thanks to your videos. ;)
All you need is high quality RO water around 15ppm or less for awesome results,
Tap water which is 300-400+ppm is absolutely awful.
Nice work dude. Fuk the haters!!!!
I have a beat up sistema colt 1911 that'll be getting parked. This video was really handy, and actually, I was dreading this project, but it doesn't really look to be that horrible to attempt. haha.
Just so you know, you are not etching the surface, you are oxidizing the surface and resultant (black coating) is the porous oxidized material
Very informative it has our business alot
YOU ARE THE BEST.
Very cool video. I've always wondered how this was done.
what about the inside of the barrel?... I'm currently bringing back my old ak 47 that I gave to my dad (with roughly 500 rds fired at the time) and he used it as a stash gun while I was away and it suffered water damage for an extended period of time until he checked on it and found that moisture had gotten to it... I walked into the shop one day and found him buffing it with a wire wheel on a 4" grinder and I hastily took it from him... thankfully my ex got me a blasting cabinet before she left and I was able to take it down to fresh metal and clean it up... I had wanted to cerakote it all but skimped out and bought gunkote instead just to simplify it somewhat... now I'm thinking that there's going to be a lot of unprotected areas or even worse some clogged ones but thankfully it's a Kalashnikov and should work regardless of how it looks afterwards.
any advice from you with this project would be greatly appreciated.
Excellent video. Very informative. Im only left with a few questions... in your after display of the freshly parkerized parts I can see lines of what seem like rust... is thT what it is and why?
Parkerizing changes dimensions so what do you do to protect machined and mating surfaces? For example, machined pinholes and rails should not be Parkerized. How can these surfaces be protected from Parkerizing?
Is it OK to get the parkerizing inside the barrel, or do the ends need to be plugged?
You might mention that the gloves you're using to handle the dirty and oily parts are to keep your hands clean. Those gloves get dirty and oily, just as your hands would, so you do not handle the clean metal parts with those dirty gloves. They aren't magic gloves that automatically stay clean when handling dirty and oily parts. Use clean gloves to handle clean parts.
does this affect any chrome lining at all? i.e. chrome lined bore, or inside of ak gas block?
What prevents the inside of barrel from parkerizing?
Thanks for sharing, You have done a great job of instruction. God Bless.
if i just want to parkerize a bayonet could i just microwave the solution in a glass container kind of the same idea as your parkerizing small parts video?
Had the same happen to my guns in a fire. Need to follow this process and save them.
No need to plug the barrel?
I’m going to attempt to mag phos an old WW1 auto pistol. If I want to plug the barrel to make sure no tolerances are affected, what material could I use to plug barrel that the mag phos will not dissolve or affect?
I was thinking of filling barrel with caulking but not sure if mag phos will eat it up and plus not sure how tough it’d be to clean up. Especially getting it out of the barrel grooves.
Any help would be appreciated. Thank y’all.
Sweat, Seawater, Exposure to Mildly Acid Products or just Long Term Storage in a "gun rug" or Safe that is NOT designed to Hold Firearms will absolutely DESTROY the Fine Blued Finish on a Firearm- And leave a Rust Pitted Mess. If you own weapons- You will be doing this.
@Iraqveteran8888 It's a mixture of age discrimination, and the ease of training a new guy do do things the way you want. My old CO used to say you better know how to do your job, and have the piece of paper to prove it; because, at the end of the day people will trust a school more than you, but if you can back up your degree or certificate, you can climb the ladder faster.
Awesome video, I would love to be there with you and actually do the job a couple of times. Great video.
So you parkerized the inside of your barrel as well? Or did you plug the barrel off?
I have a Remington Model 11, 12ga that i need to have refinished? Did this one cycle once parkerized (since barrel retracts into the receiver)? And what would you charge to park or reblue one of these?
An interesting process. As others have said, a little less conversation is needed. Knock it down by 5 mins or so. Daft question, why are you packing iron at 10:22?! Keep the videos coming, all very interesting!
Sorry, but I didnt get which chemicals are in the bath to make the phosphated surface. What did you use exactly? Thanks
oh dang keep these LONG vids coming bro
Can you store the solution to use at a later date?
I noticed you didn't plug the barrels. I'm getting ready to try this and just assumed that was necessary - is it not? LOVE your videos btw!!!!
Do you do parkerizing? And if so where are you located? Should I parkerize or blue an M1 garand?
do you have to use steel tanks?? an do you have to blast the rifle parts or can you just sand.. sorry i am new to this..... thanks
So if I have a chrome lined barrel in the white, it's perfectly OK to just drop it in and park away... unplugged? Is that correct?
Awesome, this is your best stuff IMO.
How do you maintain a parkerized finish?
When I attempt to apply a coating of oil the applicator (patches, tshirt, etc) always leave major fibers.
Also after applying oil (balistol, clp, hoppes) it seems to work like a dust magnet.
Wouldn't it be more efficient to get the rust off, then put them in the ultrasonic?
its proably possible to remove the rust electrochemically if you don't happen to have access to an ultrasonic cleaner. all you should need is a salt, baking soda, water solution and a piece of aluminum or copper and maybe a battery (esp if you use copper)
anyway what Temp are you heating the solution to???
Wish my SKS came out these good. I send off to a local guy and he did a shit job. Any ideas on how to fix her up still has some rust spots ?
Amazing work and craftsmanship!
✭✭✭✭✭
Hey man, I have a question. I am doing Zinc phosphate, and I have read that for the first time you mix the solution, you are supposed to add iron powder, then you never have to add more again. But, I've never heard if this or seen anything else on it... ? Do you know anything about this? And can you give me some insight on what my solution mix to water ratio should be for zinc? Thank you so much
parkerize, i did mine with lauer, but i used zinc instead of manganese, as i like gray more than black
Hey IV are u suposed to plug up shot gun barrels or is it ok to parcarize the inside the barrel?
Is the waterbath also distilled water? Just curious. Great video as usual!
How did you go about cleaning up that Model 70 stock without ruining the finish?
Could you list the basics ingredients necessary to parkerized please. I believe a main ingredient is phosphoric acid (ospho) correct? We use it in our shop all the time & get it for less than $20 a gallon. It would be nice if this was the case.
what is the temperature for degreaser would like to hear back asap thank you
What kind of Ultra sonic cleaner is that you cleaned the parts in?
What about parkerizing Holley Carburetor parts ? Does parkerizing only do steel parts ?
where did u get the long tank? I have some 22" plus barrels I wanna do and I cant find anything that long. Also what about the bore? should it be plugged prior to the dip?
if they are chrome plated barrels it wont parkerize. The Arisaka type 99 has a chrome plated barrel. as for the shotguns i don't think it will matter since they are smooth-bore.
Very good vid! Thanks for posting
what do you think of parkerizing vs gen 3 coating on the ed browns 1911
I get that it's not an issue with a smooth bore shotgun, but what about if its a rifled barrel? Wouldn't dunking it in a that solution screw up the inside and the rifling?
+Neil Carpenter that's what I was thinking...
No it wouldn't actually
Every gunsmith I've talked to about this highly recommends plugging the bore. There's a reason why they are usually left shiny. I wouldn't want to etch that nice smooth finish in there.
hi do you know the method mossberg uses to paint marinecote shotguns? is it better than the parkeise, does it scratch easier?
I imagine the guns were most likely inside a safe during the fire. The stocks usually turn to charcoal. I have only heard about this once before in a safe advertisment.
is parkerising the best finish someone can do themselves ?
can you make adhd versions of these videos our patience are terrible
i just got my first AK and the finish is rusted off so i removed all of the old bluing
what product should i use to re blue it????
how much to fix my 30-30 it was left in water and has beep pitting of rust
Hey Vet8888, what is a fair price range to have a a rifle parkerized?
are those watering troughs for cattle or swine? they look like it!. good video always been interested in parkerizing but thought it was much harder for some reason.
Dud" Next time use simple green marine. Used the simple green on my big boat for 22 years and broke my ass with a brush getting the aluminum lines from the windshield off the fiberglass of the boat went to napa auto one day for car parts and they had simple green marine i grab it. and no crap don't have to use a brush at all it's sprayed on and hose it off unbelievable stuff!!! but not so ez to find? look on line for it. You will be a real happy boy. It's a night and day cleaner-degreaser!
Instead of blasting can you just sand it? Also do you recommend a parkerizing solution?
looks good would love to see a blueing video as well sense your doing blueing on that mag well anyways lol
Is there a reason the water bath is in a copper container?
I love these video's...
I cried during this video.... did anyone else?
@ 6:45 what do you call those tubs? Where can I get something like that?
Brownells sells them. I think they call them chemical tanks?
I searched them. Stainless tanks, and black iron tanks.
Damn, been parkerizing for a long time now and I seem to have relatively successful at many jobs. A friend of mine recently asked me to park his worn out Beretta in.32 Cal. Small pieces (trigger, guide rod, mag follower, etc) parked really nice but the slide is not. Slide comes out of the park solution looking very black, even and holding on (even after brushing with a nylon brush). Then after a couple of days in oil the thing turns light colour again, as if the Park wasn't holding. Any ideas?
i have a ptr91 reciever in the white that i want to parkerize. now, if i put it in the solution like that, its gonna parkerize the inside aswell, is that gonna cause any trouble with the bolt running inside it later?
TheAngler2210 I wouldn't park that chamber. if you do sand it off or blast it off