I wanted a Karu 16 but can’t afford that. I’ve thought of building a pizza oven out of an oil drum and have got as far as burning the paint off 24 hours ago, then I saw this. Absolutely priceless, thinking outside the box, genius.
I found this iteration much more adaptable and useful than other implementations for the reason this single oven can be used for baking if you've seen my sourdough bread baking videos and it can be used for flat breads and of course pizza. I've done several other experiments but none have been as successful as this one. It's also safer to handle due to the handle keeping hands away from heated metals. I'm still working to perfect this setup for wider use cases. I'll share videos as I hit a milestone.
Can you plug it straight to the socket? How do you select right power (W) size? By calculating Ohms? R=V^2/P= 240^2/1800= 32 Ohms? How many Ohms is enough for pizza cooking in your case? Do you any type of resistor or current regulator? The way I see you put it straight to the current.
Haven't focused too much on those specifics but if any oven can achieve over 400 degrees celsius should be good enough for pizza. If insulation is used on outer face of the bowl such as ceramic fibre then a 1kw element would still easily achieve over 400 degrees celsius. I can plug directly to wall socket. I'm using extension cord because wall socket is further away from me so can't reach with single cable. I used current regulator, the element wouldn't turn on if it is below 120volts. Only starts heating up if I turn the knob to over 120volts. Also makes a buzzing noise if I use regulator but helps me keep the temperature lower for example of I need to cook a different style pizza which requires longer cooking time other than Neapolitan style.
That's just a normal wok with an element hidden under it. That works for its own purpose but for pizza you need the element to be not covered and should be at around 7cm distance from pizza so the element's radiant heat cooks it. If the sunbeam wok is turned upside down it could bake bread. But it is too dear to modify it for a pizza oven. Also turning it upside down means its electrical components will heat up and could burn quickly as heat rises upwards towards it.
Awesome DIY Project. I can't believe there isn't a single commercial product to even come close to this. There are a bunch of attempts that use this idea commercially but they all fail to deliver the right temperature. If you want to make real pizza at home you have to buy a $600 full size oven that takes a lot of space in your kitchen. I have 3 questions regardin your build: 1) Do you think that adding a few small holess at the top would improve the oven or it would work against its efficiency? This type of arrangement seems to be lacking any ventilation or a way for steam to escape. This shouldn't be that much of a concern for a 90 seconds cook time but I was wondering if you would consider this an improvement. 2) User "Gee Whiz RS" replicated this idea but made a few modifications. And you commended him for placing the thermometer probe in a better position. His build added some interesting changes. But wouldn't the probe be better placed at the top, as far away from the heating coil as possible, so that it can measure the air temperature inside the oven? He placed the probe to the side and very close to the the coil. I am wondering why you would think this would be better. 3) What would you change if you were to make this today, given what you have learned so far from using it and what you've seen others do? I am intereseted what you would do if perhaps you wouldn't try to stick to such a small budget. Would a slightly bigger budget bring in any worthwhile improvements? You mentioned that thermal isolation could make it possible to acheive the same temperatures with a much lower rated heating element, which makes sense. It would make the oven more efficient, safer and it will probably prolong the life of the heating element. What would that thermal isolation be? And how could it be attached to the bowl. There don't seem to be many options that would work at those temperatures and be food safe. I would be interested to know how you would improve this project.
Hey, the point of this project was to create something that is cheap to build and can be stored in the kitchen without taking too much space. Also, parts replacement is easy as it doesn't invovle too much complex engineering installation. To make this project a bit improved and complicated to build but efficient I'll answer your three questions: 1. Small holes would help let the steam escape but at the same time recude efficiiency of the unit. The max temp I get at 5 mins at over 430+ C at the top of the bowl. If there were holes it would probably drop and result pizza would cook or longer and result in a dryer base. The holes that heating element terminals stick out from does allow some ventilation so I do see steam come out of that. Also, the botom of the bowl has a bit of bend when heated up causing some steam to escape from there so it is not entirely sealed tight. 2. Yea I liked his implementation. Reason I'd favour placing the bbq thermometer below the element is because that would be the heat radiation amount that the pizza base would under. So I think that could be more accurate reading. However placing at the top to gauge air temp is also fine just that heat of the air at top of the bowl would be more intense than the bottom so it may not be as accurate. 3. My next improvement would be to find a slight smaller bowl and place that inside the original bowl and fill the gap with plaster of parise + play sand solution. Let it dry and that would make a really awesome insulation that stays inside the two bowls and would keep the heat within. That would make it go over 500 or 600 degrees in minutes and could be dangerous unless I can find a pid controller that supports 500+ C that I can use to control the heat build up. This would help pizza cook more evently and on the sides just like a real wood fired oven and cut electricity cost. The next size of the bowl I use is 28 centimeters and that is not as big as I would like. If I can find a 34 centimeter or 32 centimeter I'd definitely implement this insulated bowl.
@@saidalisamed Wow, such a quick reply. And you answered all my questions. Thank you! I know what you mean about the bowl sizes. I looked into something smaller myself and Ikea has a good number of sizes to choose from but unfortunately nothing between 28 and 36cm. And they have very good properties, like you mentioned, the polished inner face is highly reflective and the material is also good quality. It has the right weight and wall thickness for such a purpose. It's difficult to find something simillar elsewhere. I've never heard of those insulation materials you mention. Well, I've heard of play sand but I know almost nothing about it, certainly never hear of its thermal insulation properties. Could you exapnd a bit on that? Or maybe, if you do manage to make that build, would you do a step by step video like this one? And yes, if you would have 2 bowls that create a small, consistent gap between them, it would make the perfect way to hold the insulation in place. There are some cheap temperature controllers available on Ebay that you can program to cut off the power when they reach a certain temperature. They come with a thermometer probe too. Unfortunately, none of those I've seen are rated to handle more than 1500W. And their temeprature probes are nowhere near able to measure 400-500 degrees. I'm sure there are some controllers that can handle that but I wasn't able to find one (haven't looked into it that much yet, though). Perhaps some replacements for the electric ovens that use those 1800w heating elements. It would be interesting to know how much lower than 1800w one can go if the oven is properly insulated. I am a bit worried about the lifespan of these heating elements when used in this way. I've read you shouldn't use them for more than a few minutes at a time or they will overheat and break. And a 1000w element would be a lot more forgiving. Either way, a thermostat would help a lot with this and also with ensuring a more even temeprature for cooking.
The insulating material plaster of Paris is a building material and can be found in home depot stores easily. It is also cheap and with heat insulation value of just 0.1 it is a very good insulator. Sand is just normal sand used for strength of the solution. People create foundries using this material. Search RUclips and you'll find a bunch of videos. Yea heat controller are cheap and easy to find but they mostly support up to 300 degrees C which is not enough for pizza oven. The element should hold up for long and higher temperatures easily. If it burns out it is cheap to replace easily. I got a couple spares from eBay for just 10 bucks a piece. The idea of insulation is to not let heat escape away due to bowl conduction of heat to the outside air and if that can be curbed via some sort of insulation material, it would help cut electricity usage to half.
@@saidalisamed Not sure if you could read my comment before RUclips deleted it because it contained a link. I have found a store on Aliexpress that sells temperature controllers rated to 500 degrees Celsius.
sembra che si sia surriscaldato. Non ricordo di averlo tenuto acceso per così tanto tempo senza usarlo. di solito si preriscalda in meno di 5 minuti, quindi dovresti cucinare dopo quel tempo e una volta terminato scollegare il forno se non lo usi. dipende anche dal tipo di qualità dell'elemento termico. hai usato lo stesso elemento c1800w o 2400w? più è il wattaggio più si riscalderà rapidamente quindi non dovrebbe essere lasciato acceso senza usarlo.
Se usi una fonte di calore inferiore come sto usando il fornello a gas, non avresti bisogno di tenere il forno acceso per riscaldare a lungo la pietra e far bruciare l'elemento. Di solito quello che faccio è accendere il fornello a gas per 5 minuti per riscaldare la padella inferiore, quindi accendo il forno e dopo 2 o 3 minuti è alla temperatura di cuocere una pizza. Dopo aver finito con la prima pizza, ho già la seconda pronta per essere lanciata. Quindi in meno di 15 minuti di solito cucinerei quattro pizze per la famiglia e una volta che ho finito staccherò il forno perché non mi serve più. Quindi il tempo di esecuzione totale è di solito inferiore a 20 minuti per me. Anche se provo a cucinarne un'altra qualche minuto dopo dopo una pausa, accendo il forno solo 2 minuti prima e sarà di nuovo pronta per me per lanciare una nuova pizza. In questo modo il mio elemento mi è durato per oltre sei mesi dopo averlo usato quasi tutti i giorni per cucinare focacce.
The height of the holes are at 11cm. Diameter of holes is 8mm. The element itself is bent at a slight angle as you can see in the video that places it at a height of 7cm. You will need to trace the holes distance and size based on the brand of element you get. I used a paper template that i traced myself by placing on top of it.
Hi, this is a phenomenal idea and I will try to copy that. But I'm curious about something: How warm do the conductors which are directly contacted with the heating element get (at timestamp 2:58)? Could the insulation melt? And also the resistance of the cable could rise when the cable is getting warmer (but I don't know if this is relevant). Thank you so much!
The nichrome wire inside the element ends at least an inch and half from the connecting terminals so the ternimals don't get that hot. The fire retardant tape wouldn't even melt. You could use terminal connectors for proper wire connections ebay.us/nHsMKh . The cable does get warm after some 20 mins of continuous use but that's normal. I use 10amp cable which can resist 2000w of power. The element I use is only 1800w. For my use cooking flat bread and pizza, I preheat the bottom pan on gas for some 5 mins. After that I turn on the oven and pre-heat the bowl for 5 mins and that's all the time it needs. After cooking I turn off the oven from wall socket to prevent over heating.
@@saidalisamed @DIY Thank you for your exhausting answer! I'm still waiting for a few parts but decided to do the following details: 1) Use of 2,4 kW heating element 2) Use of a a SIHF-J 3x2,5 mm² cable which is heat resistant (also the insulation) up to 180 °C in long range and could do 16 A (www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07DCS8431/ ) 3) Use of glass fiber silicon coated insulation (heat resistant up to 250 °C) for the direct wiring of the connectors (www.ebay.de/itm/182022811193 ) 4) Use of a cheap voltage regulation to regulate the power (www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07BP4N2VP/ - Be careful, the cheap ones are not always safe in condition as delivered) 5) Use of a BBQ thermometer in the top of the bowl (www.amazon.de/gp/product/B089MWZ5D5/ ) I'm so excited to do the first test! How do you know when the oven is ready? Do you measure the stone temperatur, the air temperature or both?
@@andreas5160 Nice list of items. Should be a nice build especially when you use a 16amp for 2.4kw is great and much safer. One important bit I'd to make sure the element is moulded into a W shape otherwise it will not cook evenly and will burn the pizza. The fan forced heating element is softer and can be easily shaped. And for 2.4 kw using regulator is kind of important otherwise pizza could cook too sooner than recommended 1.5 mins. That would leave inside the pizza base a bit raw. I check both the base and air temp before cooking. My base is aluminium alloy and that on gas heats up in about five mins and then I turn on the oven which needs another 5 mins to reach over 400c. That's the time I start cooking.
@@andreas5160 if you're okay to share please link your build in a comment. Very excited to see everyone's implementation and how the pizza turns out. 😁
@@andreas5160 make sure the bowl you use for the dome is stainless steel and of gauge size comparable to the one at IKEA that I use. This helps retain heat and reflect back the heat onto the pizza due to its shiny internal polish. The 36 cm is large enough for a nice 32+cm pizza to cook. I have tried aluminium ones they transfer heat into the air more rapidly resulting in inside the dome loosing it's heat capacity and prevents heat build up inside. Stainless steel is poorer conductor of heat then aluminium and has higher melting point so is a better choice.
Yea I saw it in email. RUclips removes comments with links but it does send email so I did get to read your comment completely. So here's my response to that comment: 1. Regarding insulation with Plaster of Paris, it is known to be a good insulator and people has used it to make foundries by mixing plaster of paris, sand and water into a paste consistency that is runny and pour between the two bowls that you'd place inside each other. The rim that stays bare at the edge can be covered IF you can find the smaller bowl tht has a lip just like the one you have in the link but the lip has to be at least 36cm in diameter so that it can fully cover the outer bowl and the plaster inside it without any plaster being visible. I'd also suggest poking some holes iwth small screws on each bowl so that plaster can adhere to the steel bowl. This is because plaster loses its stenght with heat overtime so those hooks will ensure the two layers of bowls stay attached to the plaster. 2. Regarding how think should be the plaster pouring, it depends on the smaller bowl you can find. It an couple of cm or even 1 cm is left for the cavity, that would make huge difference in heat retention. The idea is to prevent heat from escaping quickly and means heat accumulation way over what my bowl currently can acheive BUT you do need a thermometer to control the heat accumulation otherwise there's burning risk of the element and wires catching fire. 3. For base you use cast iron as well if you can't find aluminium alloy pan. The only reason I like aluminium alloy is that being alloy the heat transfer to the dough is not as fast as pure aluminium which means the dough can withstand a couple of minutes of heat but not burn. Pure aluminium would burn it in seconds if you reach temp of over 300c. 4. If you end up insulating the bowl then I think you wouldn't need a bottom heat source. All you could do is insulate the bowl and find a bottom covering that can fully cover the bowl opening with you place it upside down. Insulate that covering too and install the element by attaching to the cover. Then install the base such as a cast iron that can fit a bit up into the bowl with some screws as its stand. After your turn it on, the bowl and base cover bing insuulated will not allow heat to escape which means you can get to over 500c in matter of minutes. Heat travels upwards in the bowl means top of the bowl will be red hot as well as the base. This is my next plan to build but currently i'm looking in to finding bowls that can fit into each other and can provide all the parameters I'm after. I'm eyeing on some kitchen accessories such as old aluminium pots set that are about 30 diameter and one with 28 and they fit inside each other pretty nicely. I need to convince the boss first lol :)
You can also use the voltage regulator to control the heath accumulation but that's more manual work and you need to keep an eye on right amount of voltage to maintain some sort of temperature for your baking. I used this to bake cakes muffins that only need some 180c temp but that I had to keep an eye and i don't think that's worth the effort.
Regarding insulation, if I find a cleaner way to plaster the inside of the bowl without the need for another layer of steel to cover it, that'd be my goal but doesn't seem like a clean way other than mess.
btw, the current oven with its current configuration works perfectly for cooking pizza, and flat breads however in my next iterations i'd like to remove the need for bottom firing heat source and make it more efficient thus looking for some sort of insulation layer.
Quì in Inghilterra da Ikea..Magari anche da voi..La campana è per scopi alimentari, nei ristoranti. Cioè la metti sopra le pietanze impiattate, per tenere il cibo caldo..ciao, Sergio UK..
I got a 2000kw element and 13a cable and after one and half hour of preheating the the bowl it self got pretty hot but you can still hold it to your face just warm what do you suggest i did wrong
If the bowl is not shiny it wouldn't reflect the radiant heat back down meaning you wouldn't feel its heat when holding to your face. Also if bowl is aluminium and not stainless steel, the bowl will conduct more heat outside than keeping within the bowl. That also reduces heat buildup within the bowl chamber. It could also be the element itself. The fan forced elements usually heat up pretty quickly and glow bright vs other elements that have thick tubing and filled with thicker insulation material within the tube. Half hour is way more than enough for element to radiat it's full power output. Were you able to check what temperature does it get to after 5 mins of runtime using a laser thermometer? For 2kw element it should at least register 550c temperature. One other reason could be electricity itself. Highly unlikely but is your supplied electric current able to fully provide the 220 or 240 volts if you're not in North America?
@@saidalisamed okay i think my element is not fan forced then! Tbh i only found one store that sells heat elements and they didn't know what i was asking for so i showed them a picture and got what they sold me. Unfortunately i dont own a laser thermometer. I'm using stainless steel bowl. I live in Bahrain btw and we get 230v so is there anyway this will work or should i throw it in trash and start all over again.. Many thanks to you for taking the time to reply to my dump questions
How hot does the element glow? Also did you try putting a dough as test to see how quick it bubbles and cooks? It may just be not glowing but could well provide the temp of 400c +. Make sure you have the bottom pan hot enough on gas as I do. Also how high the element will be hanging in the bowl matters. If you find it not browning quickly you could pull the element further down. Mine is at 7cm height. You could come down to 5 or even 4cm as a fine tuning.
@@saidalisamed no it doesn't glow it did change colour though i didn't have a pizza dough ready but i made a quick flat bread dough and after 5 minutes nothing happend ill test it tonight with pizza dough
Not the ones with links because RUclips deletes those comments but it also sends an email so I was able to read you comment via email. Regarding element, if you're in US make sure to use an element which is 120v compatible or it might not heat up to max or make buzzing noise. The wattage if 2500w is fine but the cable you've linked is for tv. You can grab an extension cord if 16amp or so and use that as oven cable. For 2500w element make sure you use cord that supports 13amp or more. The bowl looks good. Just make sure the handle is big enough so when you lift it, it doesn't burn sides of your hand.
DIY Omg I am so sorry for spamming you! I didn’t know if you were getting those. I was just trying to figure out the commenting system. Sorry! So instead of that cable, I should use a 120v 16amp extension cord? Do I have to find a different element?
DIY Ok so please remind me if I am wrong, but I should stick with the bowl, use this cord (15amps and 120v): www.amazon.com/dp/B00FBA1UNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5CQEGF5FVSJYYJWQFY02?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 . I know that 120vx15amps=1800w. Does that mean I should use a 1800w element instead or can I stick to the old element? Can you help me find an element? I honestly have no idea of where I should start because electrical stuff is not very easy for me. Thank you!
@@tizianaguarnieri6300 Il termostato dovrebbe avere una capacità termica superiore di almeno 450 ° C o 500 ° C perché all'interno della ciotola la temperatura salirà a oltre 450 ° C in meno di 5 minuti.
@@tizianaguarnieri6300 questo design viene utilizzato principalmente per esigenze di cottura a calore intenso come pizza, pane pita e non penso che il termostato sia qualcosa di necessario a meno che non si desideri utilizzarlo per altri tipi di cottura come torta a bassa temperatura ecc. per cui il forno domestico funziona meglio. Per me funziona bene, se ho bisogno di controllare la temperatura, spengo e riaccendo dalla presa a muro per certi tipi di cotture. Ho anche installato un termometro per barbecue nella parte superiore della ciotola per vedere la temperatura reale all'interno della ciotola. Dai un'occhiata a quel video: ruclips.net/video/puL_uiCqpzE/видео.html
![ARGENTINA vs. CHILE [3-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 7](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/De3AWmXzhuA/mqdefault.jpg)
I wanted a Karu 16 but can’t afford that.
I’ve thought of building a pizza oven out of an oil drum and have got as far as burning the paint off 24 hours ago, then I saw this.
Absolutely priceless, thinking outside the box, genius.
I found this iteration much more adaptable and useful than other implementations for the reason this single oven can be used for baking if you've seen my sourdough bread baking videos and it can be used for flat breads and of course pizza. I've done several other experiments but none have been as successful as this one. It's also safer to handle due to the handle keeping hands away from heated metals. I'm still working to perfect this setup for wider use cases. I'll share videos as I hit a milestone.
Can you plug it straight to the socket? How do you select right power (W) size? By calculating Ohms? R=V^2/P= 240^2/1800= 32 Ohms? How many Ohms is enough for pizza cooking in your case? Do you any type of resistor or current regulator? The way I see you put it straight to the current.
Haven't focused too much on those specifics but if any oven can achieve over 400 degrees celsius should be good enough for pizza. If insulation is used on outer face of the bowl such as ceramic fibre then a 1kw element would still easily achieve over 400 degrees celsius. I can plug directly to wall socket. I'm using extension cord because wall socket is further away from me so can't reach with single cable. I used current regulator, the element wouldn't turn on if it is below 120volts. Only starts heating up if I turn the knob to over 120volts. Also makes a buzzing noise if I use regulator but helps me keep the temperature lower for example of I need to cook a different style pizza which requires longer cooking time other than Neapolitan style.
Do you think a Sunbeam professional stainless steel electric wok will work like your mixing bowl pizza oven?
That's just a normal wok with an element hidden under it. That works for its own purpose but for pizza you need the element to be not covered and should be at around 7cm distance from pizza so the element's radiant heat cooks it. If the sunbeam wok is turned upside down it could bake bread. But it is too dear to modify it for a pizza oven. Also turning it upside down means its electrical components will heat up and could burn quickly as heat rises upwards towards it.
Awesome DIY Project. I can't believe there isn't a single commercial product to even come close to this. There are a bunch of attempts that use this idea commercially but they all fail to deliver the right temperature. If you want to make real pizza at home you have to buy a $600 full size oven that takes a lot of space in your kitchen.
I have 3 questions regardin your build:
1) Do you think that adding a few small holess at the top would improve the oven or it would work against its efficiency? This type of arrangement seems to be lacking any ventilation or a way for steam to escape. This shouldn't be that much of a concern for a 90 seconds cook time but I was wondering if you would consider this an improvement.
2) User "Gee Whiz RS" replicated this idea but made a few modifications. And you commended him for placing the thermometer probe in a better position. His build added some interesting changes. But wouldn't the probe be better placed at the top, as far away from the heating coil as possible, so that it can measure the air temperature inside the oven? He placed the probe to the side and very close to the the coil. I am wondering why you would think this would be better.
3) What would you change if you were to make this today, given what you have learned so far from using it and what you've seen others do? I am intereseted what you would do if perhaps you wouldn't try to stick to such a small budget. Would a slightly bigger budget bring in any worthwhile improvements? You mentioned that thermal isolation could make it possible to acheive the same temperatures with a much lower rated heating element, which makes sense. It would make the oven more efficient, safer and it will probably prolong the life of the heating element. What would that thermal isolation be? And how could it be attached to the bowl. There don't seem to be many options that would work at those temperatures and be food safe. I would be interested to know how you would improve this project.
Hey, the point of this project was to create something that is cheap to build and can be stored in the kitchen without taking too much space. Also, parts replacement is easy as it doesn't invovle too much complex engineering installation. To make this project a bit improved and complicated to build but efficient I'll answer your three questions:
1. Small holes would help let the steam escape but at the same time recude efficiiency of the unit. The max temp I get at 5 mins at over 430+ C at the top of the bowl. If there were holes it would probably drop and result pizza would cook or longer and result in a dryer base. The holes that heating element terminals stick out from does allow some ventilation so I do see steam come out of that. Also, the botom of the bowl has a bit of bend when heated up causing some steam to escape from there so it is not entirely sealed tight.
2. Yea I liked his implementation. Reason I'd favour placing the bbq thermometer below the element is because that would be the heat radiation amount that the pizza base would under. So I think that could be more accurate reading. However placing at the top to gauge air temp is also fine just that heat of the air at top of the bowl would be more intense than the bottom so it may not be as accurate.
3. My next improvement would be to find a slight smaller bowl and place that inside the original bowl and fill the gap with plaster of parise + play sand solution. Let it dry and that would make a really awesome insulation that stays inside the two bowls and would keep the heat within. That would make it go over 500 or 600 degrees in minutes and could be dangerous unless I can find a pid controller that supports 500+ C that I can use to control the heat build up. This would help pizza cook more evently and on the sides just like a real wood fired oven and cut electricity cost. The next size of the bowl I use is 28 centimeters and that is not as big as I would like. If I can find a 34 centimeter or 32 centimeter I'd definitely implement this insulated bowl.
@@saidalisamed Wow, such a quick reply. And you answered all my questions. Thank you! I know what you mean about the bowl sizes. I looked into something smaller myself and Ikea has a good number of sizes to choose from but unfortunately nothing between 28 and 36cm. And they have very good properties, like you mentioned, the polished inner face is highly reflective and the material is also good quality. It has the right weight and wall thickness for such a purpose. It's difficult to find something simillar elsewhere.
I've never heard of those insulation materials you mention. Well, I've heard of play sand but I know almost nothing about it, certainly never hear of its thermal insulation properties. Could you exapnd a bit on that? Or maybe, if you do manage to make that build, would you do a step by step video like this one? And yes, if you would have 2 bowls that create a small, consistent gap between them, it would make the perfect way to hold the insulation in place.
There are some cheap temperature controllers available on Ebay that you can program to cut off the power when they reach a certain temperature. They come with a thermometer probe too. Unfortunately, none of those I've seen are rated to handle more than 1500W. And their temeprature probes are nowhere near able to measure 400-500 degrees. I'm sure there are some controllers that can handle that but I wasn't able to find one (haven't looked into it that much yet, though). Perhaps some replacements for the electric ovens that use those 1800w heating elements.
It would be interesting to know how much lower than 1800w one can go if the oven is properly insulated. I am a bit worried about the lifespan of these heating elements when used in this way. I've read you shouldn't use them for more than a few minutes at a time or they will overheat and break. And a 1000w element would be a lot more forgiving. Either way, a thermostat would help a lot with this and also with ensuring a more even temeprature for cooking.
The insulating material plaster of Paris is a building material and can be found in home depot stores easily. It is also cheap and with heat insulation value of just 0.1 it is a very good insulator. Sand is just normal sand used for strength of the solution. People create foundries using this material. Search RUclips and you'll find a bunch of videos.
Yea heat controller are cheap and easy to find but they mostly support up to 300 degrees C which is not enough for pizza oven. The element should hold up for long and higher temperatures easily. If it burns out it is cheap to replace easily. I got a couple spares from eBay for just 10 bucks a piece.
The idea of insulation is to not let heat escape away due to bowl conduction of heat to the outside air and if that can be curbed via some sort of insulation material, it would help cut electricity usage to half.
@@saidalisamed Not sure if you could read my comment before RUclips deleted it because it contained a link. I have found a store on Aliexpress that sells temperature controllers rated to 500 degrees Celsius.
If it is of good quality yea you can use it in the oven with insulation at the dome
Salve ho provato a farlo ma dopo solo 30 minuti la resistenza sue bruciata mi sai dire il motivo grazie
sembra che si sia surriscaldato. Non ricordo di averlo tenuto acceso per così tanto tempo senza usarlo. di solito si preriscalda in meno di 5 minuti, quindi dovresti cucinare dopo quel tempo e una volta terminato scollegare il forno se non lo usi. dipende anche dal tipo di qualità dell'elemento termico. hai usato lo stesso elemento c1800w o 2400w? più è il wattaggio più si riscalderà rapidamente quindi non dovrebbe essere lasciato acceso senza usarlo.
Se usi una fonte di calore inferiore come sto usando il fornello a gas, non avresti bisogno di tenere il forno acceso per riscaldare a lungo la pietra e far bruciare l'elemento. Di solito quello che faccio è accendere il fornello a gas per 5 minuti per riscaldare la padella inferiore, quindi accendo il forno e dopo 2 o 3 minuti è alla temperatura di cuocere una pizza. Dopo aver finito con la prima pizza, ho già la seconda pronta per essere lanciata. Quindi in meno di 15 minuti di solito cucinerei quattro pizze per la famiglia e una volta che ho finito staccherò il forno perché non mi serve più. Quindi il tempo di esecuzione totale è di solito inferiore a 20 minuti per me. Anche se provo a cucinarne un'altra qualche minuto dopo dopo una pausa, accendo il forno solo 2 minuti prima e sarà di nuovo pronta per me per lanciare una nuova pizza. In questo modo il mio elemento mi è durato per oltre sei mesi dopo averlo usato quasi tutti i giorni per cucinare focacce.
Ciao. .grazie del video.Ma si può mettere termostato sopra manico plastica con la sonda da inserire dentro e fissarla ? Che ne pensi
Non ho potuto guardare il link non si apre per me. Il tuo link è http:
Hello,
Where exactly on your bowl you did the 4 holes of the heating element? At which height? 7cm ?
Also what is the diameter of the drill bits?
The height of the holes are at 11cm. Diameter of holes is 8mm. The element itself is bent at a slight angle as you can see in the video that places it at a height of 7cm. You will need to trace the holes distance and size based on the brand of element you get. I used a paper template that i traced myself by placing on top of it.
@@saidalisamed
Thanks.
Sei un genio
Niente termostato di sicurezza?
I have a couple of holes that let the over heated air out so It wouldn't over heat
Cosa hai usato apposto della pietra refrattaria?
www.noon.com/uae-en/arabic-aluminium-tawa-silver-40centimeter/N13162235A/p?o=acb415e061fc8e5c
Hi, this is a phenomenal idea and I will try to copy that. But I'm curious about something: How warm do the conductors which are directly contacted with the heating element get (at timestamp 2:58)? Could the insulation melt? And also the resistance of the cable could rise when the cable is getting warmer (but I don't know if this is relevant). Thank you so much!
The nichrome wire inside the element ends at least an inch and half from the connecting terminals so the ternimals don't get that hot. The fire retardant tape wouldn't even melt. You could use terminal connectors for proper wire connections ebay.us/nHsMKh . The cable does get warm after some 20 mins of continuous use but that's normal. I use 10amp cable which can resist 2000w of power. The element I use is only 1800w. For my use cooking flat bread and pizza, I preheat the bottom pan on gas for some 5 mins. After that I turn on the oven and pre-heat the bowl for 5 mins and that's all the time it needs. After cooking I turn off the oven from wall socket to prevent over heating.
@@saidalisamed @DIY Thank you for your exhausting answer! I'm still waiting for a few parts but decided to do the following details:
1) Use of 2,4 kW heating element
2) Use of a a SIHF-J 3x2,5 mm² cable which is heat resistant (also the insulation) up to 180 °C in long range and could do 16 A (www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07DCS8431/ )
3) Use of glass fiber silicon coated insulation (heat resistant up to 250 °C) for the direct wiring of the connectors (www.ebay.de/itm/182022811193 )
4) Use of a cheap voltage regulation to regulate the power (www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07BP4N2VP/ - Be careful, the cheap ones are not always safe in condition as delivered)
5) Use of a BBQ thermometer in the top of the bowl (www.amazon.de/gp/product/B089MWZ5D5/ )
I'm so excited to do the first test!
How do you know when the oven is ready? Do you measure the stone temperatur, the air temperature or both?
@@andreas5160 Nice list of items. Should be a nice build especially when you use a 16amp for 2.4kw is great and much safer. One important bit I'd to make sure the element is moulded into a W shape otherwise it will not cook evenly and will burn the pizza. The fan forced heating element is softer and can be easily shaped. And for 2.4 kw using regulator is kind of important otherwise pizza could cook too sooner than recommended 1.5 mins. That would leave inside the pizza base a bit raw. I check both the base and air temp before cooking. My base is aluminium alloy and that on gas heats up in about five mins and then I turn on the oven which needs another 5 mins to reach over 400c. That's the time I start cooking.
@@andreas5160 if you're okay to share please link your build in a comment. Very excited to see everyone's implementation and how the pizza turns out. 😁
@@andreas5160 make sure the bowl you use for the dome is stainless steel and of gauge size comparable to the one at IKEA that I use. This helps retain heat and reflect back the heat onto the pizza due to its shiny internal polish. The 36 cm is large enough for a nice 32+cm pizza to cook.
I have tried aluminium ones they transfer heat into the air more rapidly resulting in inside the dome loosing it's heat capacity and prevents heat build up inside. Stainless steel is poorer conductor of heat then aluminium and has higher melting point so is a better choice.
Genio!!!!
Does anyone have a us supplier of the heating element?
Search eBay for fan forced heating element and you'll find plenty.
@@saidalisamed I see plenty, but unfortunately all are being shipped from Australia ..
In other parts of the world it maybe known by a different term or name.
Hi i sent a comment a few hours ago with a youtube link. were you able to see it
Yea I saw it in email. RUclips removes comments with links but it does send email so I did get to read your comment completely. So here's my response to that comment:
1. Regarding insulation with Plaster of Paris, it is known to be a good insulator and people has used it to make foundries by mixing plaster of paris, sand and water into a paste consistency that is runny and pour between the two bowls that you'd place inside each other. The rim that stays bare at the edge can be covered IF you can find the smaller bowl tht has a lip just like the one you have in the link but the lip has to be at least 36cm in diameter so that it can fully cover the outer bowl and the plaster inside it without any plaster being visible. I'd also suggest poking some holes iwth small screws on each bowl so that plaster can adhere to the steel bowl. This is because plaster loses its stenght with heat overtime so those hooks will ensure the two layers of bowls stay attached to the plaster.
2. Regarding how think should be the plaster pouring, it depends on the smaller bowl you can find. It an couple of cm or even 1 cm is left for the cavity, that would make huge difference in heat retention. The idea is to prevent heat from escaping quickly and means heat accumulation way over what my bowl currently can acheive BUT you do need a thermometer to control the heat accumulation otherwise there's burning risk of the element and wires catching fire.
3. For base you use cast iron as well if you can't find aluminium alloy pan. The only reason I like aluminium alloy is that being alloy the heat transfer to the dough is not as fast as pure aluminium which means the dough can withstand a couple of minutes of heat but not burn. Pure aluminium would burn it in seconds if you reach temp of over 300c.
4. If you end up insulating the bowl then I think you wouldn't need a bottom heat source. All you could do is insulate the bowl and find a bottom covering that can fully cover the bowl opening with you place it upside down. Insulate that covering too and install the element by attaching to the cover. Then install the base such as a cast iron that can fit a bit up into the bowl with some screws as its stand. After your turn it on, the bowl and base cover bing insuulated will not allow heat to escape which means you can get to over 500c in matter of minutes. Heat travels upwards in the bowl means top of the bowl will be red hot as well as the base. This is my next plan to build but currently i'm looking in to finding bowls that can fit into each other and can provide all the parameters I'm after. I'm eyeing on some kitchen accessories such as old aluminium pots set that are about 30 diameter and one with 28 and they fit inside each other pretty nicely. I need to convince the boss first lol :)
You can also use the voltage regulator to control the heath accumulation but that's more manual work and you need to keep an eye on right amount of voltage to maintain some sort of temperature for your baking. I used this to bake cakes muffins that only need some 180c temp but that I had to keep an eye and i don't think that's worth the effort.
Regarding insulation, if I find a cleaner way to plaster the inside of the bowl without the need for another layer of steel to cover it, that'd be my goal but doesn't seem like a clean way other than mess.
btw, the current oven with its current configuration works perfectly for cooking pizza, and flat breads however in my next iterations i'd like to remove the need for bottom firing heat source and make it more efficient thus looking for some sort of insulation layer.
👊
Dove comprare questa campana di ferro
Quì in Inghilterra da Ikea..Magari anche da voi..La campana è per scopi alimentari, nei ristoranti. Cioè la metti sopra le pietanze impiattate, per tenere il cibo caldo..ciao, Sergio UK..
@@sergiodario58able grazie ma penso la parte elettrica di allaccio sia un problema x Massa a terra e termostato regolagire
www.ikea.com/au/en/p/blanda-blank-serving-bowl-stainless-steel-10166052/
Molto geniale
I got a 2000kw element and 13a cable and after one and half hour of preheating the the bowl it self got pretty hot but you can still hold it to your face just warm what do you suggest i did wrong
If the bowl is not shiny it wouldn't reflect the radiant heat back down meaning you wouldn't feel its heat when holding to your face. Also if bowl is aluminium and not stainless steel, the bowl will conduct more heat outside than keeping within the bowl. That also reduces heat buildup within the bowl chamber. It could also be the element itself. The fan forced elements usually heat up pretty quickly and glow bright vs other elements that have thick tubing and filled with thicker insulation material within the tube. Half hour is way more than enough for element to radiat it's full power output. Were you able to check what temperature does it get to after 5 mins of runtime using a laser thermometer? For 2kw element it should at least register 550c temperature. One other reason could be electricity itself. Highly unlikely but is your supplied electric current able to fully provide the 220 or 240 volts if you're not in North America?
@@saidalisamed okay i think my element is not fan forced then! Tbh i only found one store that sells heat elements and they didn't know what i was asking for so i showed them a picture and got what they sold me. Unfortunately i dont own a laser thermometer. I'm using stainless steel bowl. I live in Bahrain btw and we get 230v so is there anyway this will work or should i throw it in trash and start all over again..
Many thanks to you for taking the time to reply to my dump questions
How hot does the element glow? Also did you try putting a dough as test to see how quick it bubbles and cooks? It may just be not glowing but could well provide the temp of 400c +. Make sure you have the bottom pan hot enough on gas as I do. Also how high the element will be hanging in the bowl matters. If you find it not browning quickly you could pull the element further down. Mine is at 7cm height. You could come down to 5 or even 4cm as a fine tuning.
@@saidalisamed no it doesn't glow it did change colour though i didn't have a pizza dough ready but i made a quick flat bread dough and after 5 minutes nothing happend ill test it tonight with pizza dough
Resistenza di quanti cm
19 cm. This one at ebay. Fan forced oven heating element: ebay.us/5QeLfC
the link is also in description
are my comments going through
Not the ones with links because RUclips deletes those comments but it also sends an email so I was able to read you comment via email. Regarding element, if you're in US make sure to use an element which is 120v compatible or it might not heat up to max or make buzzing noise. The wattage if 2500w is fine but the cable you've linked is for tv. You can grab an extension cord if 16amp or so and use that as oven cable. For 2500w element make sure you use cord that supports 13amp or more. The bowl looks good. Just make sure the handle is big enough so when you lift it, it doesn't burn sides of your hand.
DIY Omg I am so sorry for spamming you! I didn’t know if you were getting those. I was just trying to figure out the commenting system. Sorry! So instead of that cable, I should use a 120v 16amp extension cord? Do I have to find a different element?
@@colbyn644 yes for your locaiton all electrical parts should be 120v compatible.
DIY Ok so please remind me if I am wrong, but I should stick with the bowl, use this cord (15amps and 120v): www.amazon.com/dp/B00FBA1UNU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5CQEGF5FVSJYYJWQFY02?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 . I know that 120vx15amps=1800w. Does that mean I should use a 1800w element instead or can I stick to the old element? Can you help me find an element? I honestly have no idea of where I should start because electrical stuff is not very easy for me. Thank you!
Spero che con traduzione Google..riesci a capire cosa intendo ..hai Instagram così ti posso mandare foto di termostato
Non ho l'istragramma ma se è un link condivisibile pubblicamente invia il link qui dovrei essere in grado di vederlo.
@@saidalisamed € 2,93 20%di SCONTO | AC 250V 16A 50-300 ℃ termostato regolatore di temperatura NC NO per forno elettrico
@@saidalisamed che ne dici riesci a vedere
@@tizianaguarnieri6300 Il termostato dovrebbe avere una capacità termica superiore di almeno 450 ° C o 500 ° C perché all'interno della ciotola la temperatura salirà a oltre 450 ° C in meno di 5 minuti.
@@tizianaguarnieri6300 questo design viene utilizzato principalmente per esigenze di cottura a calore intenso come pizza, pane pita e non penso che il termostato sia qualcosa di necessario a meno che non si desideri utilizzarlo per altri tipi di cottura come torta a bassa temperatura ecc. per cui il forno domestico funziona meglio. Per me funziona bene, se ho bisogno di controllare la temperatura, spengo e riaccendo dalla presa a muro per certi tipi di cotture. Ho anche installato un termometro per barbecue nella parte superiore della ciotola per vedere la temperatura reale all'interno della ciotola. Dai un'occhiata a quel video: ruclips.net/video/puL_uiCqpzE/видео.html