WHAT WAS CHANEL THINKING? (Chanel Fall 2022 Haute Couture Roast)
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- Опубликовано: 26 авг 2024
- The Chanel Fall 2022 Haute Couture collection was once again based on the idea of the 20th century art movement dubbed Construstivism, but what does a fashion brand that historically harbored Russian aristocracy fleeing the Bolshevik Revolution and one that charges $10,000 for a handbag know about a Soviet Union-era art movement? Well, not all that much. Virginie Viard's Chanel is certainly finding its own way in the legacy of the House of Chanel, but it is one that is somewhere in the middle of Karl Lagerfeld's fantasy-based collections and Coco Chanel's technically efficient designs.
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Poor Kristen Stewert - She would have to wear the black/white/red polka dot dress in some award show soon
😂😂😂
Sorry for her in advanced..
You’re right! I can’t say I like much in this new collection
They’ll probably customize it into a ridiculously short romper or such.
@@cinephile1712 sounds like you might be right- but I still don’t like this dress! Just not pretty.
Finally, someone telling it like it is. Every collection I’ve seen since Viard took over has left me puzzled, underwhelmed and worried for the iconic brand.
Same. Lagerfeld's absence was really felt
I agree
Everything looked oddly bulky...
Same. People keep telling me to move on, but to this? I keep watching Lagerfeld shows from as far back as they go, and his successor is not drawing me into the present.
Can we talk about how weird it is to make a russian-inspired collection after you stop selling your products in Russia? I mean, seriously, Chanel is one of the western companies that pulled out of Russia after they invaded Ukraine.
So true, and that’s a very good point.
collections doesnt happen overnight, it takes up to 6 month to develop
I think Russia has wayyyyy bigger problems than not having access to Chanel products!
Yeah, it's also weird to be showing a collection centering a period of time around Holodomor when Russia is attempting another genocide against Ukraine
@@assetkurmanov2422 It has almost been 6 months since the invasion
They WEREN'T thinking...
The didn't think new and creative at least
@@estherlise indeed. Kinda reminds me of MAC cosmetics...they didn't want to change and grow with the times and they chose to rest on their name. Unfortunately, now no one is really interested or barely talks about their products anymore. Channell is classic yes... But it's starting to be tired and boring.
Thinking means assuming they got a brain,safe to say there were a shortage of brains
Lol best comment 🤣 I'm howling
Exactly! It was nothing more than just a boring parade of dresses, just like Dior 😒
Its a haute couture collection and shes giving us ready to wear
it all looked so heavy. like it was weighing down the models. thick, baggy, bulky.
Yes. It reminded me of Russian winters except that the Russians don't wear such unflattering styles, even in winter.
Yes, ok, historical brand references, house codes, and so on. But opting to reference a Russian-inspired collection in the current climate, especially considering Coco Chanel’s personal history… choices.
*insert gif of Tatianna* This indeed was A CHOICE....:/
I choose to believe it was either accidental or INCREDIBLY intentional and part of a conspiracy that involved making deliberately drab Russian inspired clothing to contrast/ complement the vibrant Ukrainian inspired collection xD. Like on really highly Place person wanted to make commentary on Russia and ukraine, but wasn't allowed to overtly do it so they can spired with a few other industry people to make this happen xD
I agree with the other comments . Pvery bizarre choice of replicating a Russian influence on maison Chanel in this climate. This collection was perfectly suited to their clientele. Old, tweed, monied and boring. But then again, I’m not buying their looks. I’m good not looking like a corpse in a tweed stair jacket.
I literally never comment on videos but here’s the thing, I’m Russia/American and come from a long line of artists and writers. Despite the fact that the Russian government is absolute trash and that Putin needs to be assassinated by someone ASAP, I don’t think it takes away from the rich arts culture that my people have….It is in dark times like these that normal people turn to the music, literature, fashion, etc to express themselves. Even with the current political climate, I think the separation between Russian politics and the wealth of the Russian arts culture can be made. There are many many Russian folk like myself and my family stuck in that terrible country who cry daily for our Ukrainian siblings. Half my friends are Ukrainian - our cultures are so much more intertwined than I think Americans realize. Please remember that the enemy is the Russian government, not the normal people who have lost everything: any form of freedom of speech (they barely had it to begin with), freedom of press, freedom to assemble, any kind of freedom of any kind in this awful regime…really the only thing left in a time like this that connects me to my people are the arts.
@@daniellelevine4097 that's why I feel like it has to be a conspiracy, because you can make good clothes based on Russian heritage. How bad this is feels like a deliberate slap in the face to Russia.
I mean didn't we do constructivist in the 2010s? Dries van Noten did a collection in 2011 I think that referenced it and it was a lot more flowy and interesting because he pieced together all these wild prints and textures into a unified whole without making it look like Chicos. :D I think Chanel always looks old lady even on teenage models. Lagerfeld's Chanel was cheekier and more fun but alot of it looked like a mess--like someone had taken their mom's chanel jacket and upcycled it.
It just reads so *old.* I know older women need clothing and they also have more money as a group than younger people, but half the show was so aggressively dowdy.
Okay, I'M old, and I wouldn't be caught in those awful, dowdy clothes.
@@miriamhavard7621 it's like....what a child thinks a grandma wears, but literally nobody has worn in 60+ years. It doesn't feel inspired by the past, it feels trapped in it
No need to look dowdy when your'e older, or ever😂
"older women need clothing". Wow, what an observation haha.
I'm studying constructivism for my dissertation right now. I was SO excited to hear that it was the inspo for this year's collection... It's sad because that era/aesthetic is SO vibrant and SO interesting. But yeah, I'm with you. Disappointed.
Chanel never disappoints to disappoint me
I love watching Luke's videos. But I am hardly a student of fashion, or young (or rich) enough to be a customer. I like watching because (A) amazing wealth of knowledge, and (B) I like looking at beautiful clothes. Except for the fluffy white dress with the bolero top, I didn't see a SINGLE thing that anyone should wear. Regardless of the references and history - all of which is interesting, fashion should make the wearer look good. Most of this is just fugly ugly, and would detract, not enhance a person's body.
The long skirts were so squared. I like wearing long squirts, but I wear ones that have shape and won't make me look boxy. Truly fugly collection.
Fugly indeed......😭
As usual this was a very fair and knowledgeable commentary. For me this was an elegant collection, but also seems to be overly staid or perhaps a little too much reverence to the past? I must confess to a personal prejudice of mine, I do not like pockets over chest area. They have little utilitarian value and seem to be a less than creative way of decorating the bodice area. The one standout to me is the black gown with chevron stripes and sheer sleeves/shoulders which can also be worn by individuals of various sizes.
I don’t like those pockets either. I always think they look a little off too, especially on me personally
I'll give a small shout out for Big Pockets over chest because while they have little utility as pockets, my small-breasted mother used to wear shirts with pockets over them instead of a bra when she was lounging around working on something.
Those of us with bigger breasts never wear pocketed jackets like this😄 depends on how you are built
@@myiachanmagicalgirl lol
@@Lsquared551 Exactly my problem lol. Sometimes they're my best asset, sometimes the downfall to what would be a cute outfit
you are so precise. You are haute couture yourself in your capacity of requesting the best from a "maison" : creativity, quality and ... the possibility of wearing an outfit without being gaudy. Thank you very much.
i think calling it a mess would be the most polite way of describing this
Its a fashion house designed by businessmen….mess would be perfectly accurate 🤣😂
I would love to see you review collections from high street brands like Zara, Mango, & Other Stories, etc. to see how they reference what's on the runway. It's always fascinating to see what trickles down and what is genuinely original. Your Educated analysis would be amazing
I would love to see you react to Lolita Fashion closet tours! It is a fashion I don't think you'll be into, but the passion and dedication and love these women have for their dresses is something worth watching
There were a few pieces I liked in the moment and the sewing work was great but it was soooo blah that I forgot about them among the sea of expected tweed sets.
more interesting Chanel/Russian history; in addition to the Pavlovnas, Coco was actively involved with (married) composer Igor Stravinsky during what we musicologists call his Primitivist period (think Rite of Spring, Les Noces; though the 20s are close to the end, he’d soon move to his Neoclassical period) which is all about Russian pre-history. his work with les Ballets Russes at this time informed & involved all of the major Parisian artists at the time where Russian Primitivism was very en vogue and absolutely inspired Chanel.
now as far as this collection goes…yikes??? (great video as always!)
Thank you for this tasty historical tidbit!
Stravinsky also sent nude photos to his fellow composers. Funny guy.
I fell in love with Russia because of composers like Igor Stravinsky, I had no idea he married Coco 😯
The editing on this video is much, much better. Keep it up!
I would love to a series where you break down a couple looks you think you could improve upon and give your advice. Maybe even provide a visual. Love your videos.
I don't see the drama of haute couture in this collection. After 15 minutes of watching, I thought that this was ready to wear, which would have a decent appeal to the buyers of Neiman and Nordstrom, etc and their customers. Throwing a bit of lace and crystals on boucle does not make for great haute couture. This looks more like a panic attack after thought.
I wanted to see the green and silver sequined skirts as 1940s, Sailor, or (at least) Palazzo style pant. I think it would make those look more interesting.
Who do you think would be a good fit to be creative director of CHANEL?
I have a question
Like why the hell brands like chanel just hire a new designer who understand the house codes and invent some new styles which uplift the brand image and create some sort of excitement among the clients.
They know their designs are uninteresting and boring so they should work on new upcoming designers who know what they are doing.
Family business and private policy
The majority of Chanel customers who can afford couture prices are older and most likely conservative in their taste not 20 yo influencers.
their clientele loves the classic chanel silhouette and i dont think that they are ready to evolve and change their style even tho we all are🙄
@@divinel254 And what about thier next clients? Those who in 10 years will be the main custumers but will see Chanel as a Grand Ma brand?
@@dnb8835 not only that, but even Grandma's don't want to be dressed like dowdy grandmas. There's a difference between being a brand that skews to a conservative crowd and being a brand known for being conservative and out of date and "lame". Chanel has been riding that line for a while, but they're getting dangerously close to the latter
Every time you said Viard, I heard Dior; which added a funny twist to a very knowledgeable (and, as usual, amazing) video 😅
The pink coat in black or gray could be a top seller as well as the Red dress that wasn't critiqued.
Karl L. is missed. His casual wear collections at Macy's aren't haute couture but they're interesting.
Your Marc Jacob’s x Magda Archer shirt is unmatched here. Saw it for >$200 on Grailed and seen on Harry Styles and (probably) Dua Lipa. So happy to see it on someone! Also happy to see a video early.
I feel like taking inspo from russia after Dior took inspo from Ukraine hits wrong. Like I get that fashion is a buisness but the timing of this collection feels kinda gross. Dior was celebrating a country and culture under attack and chanel was celebrating . . . the country that's started and invasion and war? Like idk, did they do this to make nice to the russians who cut up their bags when the sanctions hit? Just really unsure what chanel was thinking here
Amen
Agreed It’s pretty tone deaf.
It's fashion and yes fashion is political but what's wrong with Chanel pulling out some old Russian-inspired looks? Honestly though if you are American you shouldn't even be commenting on this. The U.S was never sanctioned for Afghanistan or Iraq, and our fashions show went on like business as usual, if anything we celebrated killing those people.
I think one of the reasons Chanel hasn't been exciting for awhile is because we're not living in exciting times. Plus, when Lagerfeld was here, in his earlier collections from the '80s and '90s, he was designing for fantasy. People wanted fantasy back in those days. Even the way the models used to walk conveyed fantasy. Today, there is so much going on in the world with war, shootings, mental health, crime, etc., it seems Chanel is focusing on functional clothes without any kind of embellishments or whimsy that Karl was known for. I wonder how Chanel's future collections would look if Gucci's Alessandro Michele took over. Or maybe try Tom Ford or Olivier Rousteing. Or just maybe take a wild risk on using Christian Siriano just to see what happens. Virginie Viard seems to be more focused on garment construction than the overall look of the collection... and that's fine, but at some point, customers will need a strong reason to come in the store and buy clothes that will make the wearer look amazing.
I REALLY REALLY REAAAAAALLY miss karl 😞💔 RIP to that Icon , CHANEL is so boring now and shows are not even that exciting either….
Another great fashion lesson with interesting references.
I love the Chanel tweeds and always have. I was very happy to see them woven into the collection. In comparison to the convent look of a few years ago, this effort was a thousand times better.
These tweeds are made by Linton Tweeds, Chanel uses their fabrics exclusively I believe.
I want ‘She can do it! She just doesn’t do it often’ as a ringtone
I thought it was a bit of a hodge podge & all over the place & that is just a Chanel lover with no fashion experience. It fell flat for me for the most past. ♥️ you Luke you are incredible at what you do.
Guaranteed they're gonna force either Kristen Stewart or Margot Robbie into that god awful red polka dot striped, weird flappy sleeved dress monstrosity.
My bets on Margot. Poor thing.
French Michael Kors. This is sportswear.
I actually like some of the pieces, like the black and green jackets.
I liked most of this collection. I thought it was very wearable
I always learn so much from your videos!!!
Coco and Karl both are turning over in their graves. This is just diabolical. HOW did this designer get the job? Where's the esthetic? Where's the feminity? The elegance? Where's the energy? It just screams BORINGGGG. Aside from a few pieces, this stuff is just ugly and looks off the rack. I wonder what Wintour thinks about it.
@@martinperez3363
No shit. English please?
@@martinperez3363 I agree wholeheartedly. Fashion is art. And like art, fashion is open to debate, and opinions. Especially the Couture. It's always interesting to see a collection through someone else's eyes when they take over. But when they stray TOO far from the esthetic,, it just ruins the houses classicism and it disappoints the consumer. If a customer orders a couture suit for 15K, they want it to LOOK like Chanel. I believe in moving forward., as long as you stay within the original concept of the house. Viard is also getting her feet wet in a huge undertaking. I'm sure the "art" will return in future collections.
Coco and Karl were both awful people and coco herself was a nazi sympathizer. I dont give a shit what they think
It's very tasteless to refer to Russian style as Russia is currently still occupying Ukraine.
It's not
It is glorious, however, that the Russian inspired collection was drab and boring while the Ukrainian style was astonishingly good.
@@blackcat6508 why are you under every comment
@@wetsock7790 what are you talking about? like wich comment? You are delusional lol
@@blackcat6508 sociovarias comment, u responded with the exact same thing
I actually really like it. so wearable. nice detailing. The fit is very modern. Not every collection needs to scream. This is very elegant and wearable.
I feel the same way but I feel like I should hang my head in shame as I say it!
Which is why it doesn’t belong in a haute couture show.
Virginie needs to be replaced asap. Charaf Tajer of Casablanca would be my pick. Sadly the brand is living off of it’s legacy and exclusivity established by Karl and Coco.
Not sure for Charaf, only few years of existence and the collections already feel so repetitive and stuck in a only one stylistic language... Nah, he is not the man about it.
I was literally falling asleep. Not Luke's fault, the looks are just so damn boring.
Since Karl’s death R.I.P we hadn’t one iconic outfit or clothing line
The Chanel runways are about the spectacle, the scenography, with the clothes much lower on the list of priorities. They don't need strong collections to make massive profits with their level of brand recognition.
thats how people go bankrupt
That’s not a good excuse to make horrible clothes. Just hush honey pie 🥧 🥰
Yes they do!
Most of these look comfortable, pretty and I'd wear them, which I am sure is counter to the goals of Chanel and hence your dismay.
Today was fully sucking until this vid dropped. Even though most of the looks were forgettable/unfortunate, the history lesson was great and a few pieces were memorable. Thanks for making my day, Luke!
Even the makeup was boring!
@@LCPMJK yawnz 🥱
I completely agree that the black gown was the by far the best of the collection. It also stood out from the rest of the collection because it had nothing in common with the rest of the collection. Too bad the collection wasn't built around it.
LOVE Varvara Stepanova and the constructivism movement! Chanel could have done so much but instead gave us so little... Poor Kristen Stewart.
8:35 imagine how much better this would look if it was tailored to actually fit the model??
Was waiting for your video ! ❤️
Anyone else want to join me in conspiracy corner to try and figure out why it feels like Dior and Chanel switched collections?
Because seriously, especially that black and white striped with the red polka dot thing seems like something Maria grazia would design because of the little black belt. Was there a Dior Chanel designer Exchange program this season that wasn't advertised to the public?!
And those hair bows at the end of the show??? At first I thought it was a Disney collab. The black ones looked just like ears to my untrained eyes.
I couldn’t wait to see your review of this one!
i've been asking that question for 10 years.
Omggg luke pls review the margiela couture show! ❤️
Yeeeesssss! Notifications gaaaaaaaaang!
Gang gang
Someone can claim cubism as an inspiration, but cubism is different shapes, not the same exact shape over and over again. So no. Actual cubism has been done in fashion - Cinema OCD mentions Dries van Noten, who NAILED it - but nothing here gets anywhere that.
Chanel, Dior, and Armani Couture are for PAYING clients. Gaultier and Schiaparelli are primarily for the internet and for Gaga and
Beyonce, etc to wear on the red carpet to generate tons of free press. Chanel, etc is conservative, predictable, repetitive but it does very well with the clients. They each have their audience and serve a purpose. If you are expecting Chanel, etc to turn into Comme des garcons, it ain't gonna happen. Chanel is a juggernaut that keeps on moving.
True, however, Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel has more better design than Virginie's collection thou. Just wondering how the HC sales are with Virginie as the head designer.
I love the geometric suits. The pink lavender and black print is so adaptable.-boots, flats, platforms all would work.
The black chevron dress reminded me of a white silk evening blouse I bought in Japan in the 80’s. It had the sheer chevrons that when I dropped my arms the chevrons of the sleeves created another set of chevrons with the sides of the blouse. The color and cuffs were oversized plain silk that I wore with black velvet knickerbockers sheer black stockings and channel velvet flats.
Can we talk about how the dress has pockets I'm in love with the fact that it's an evening gown style dress with pockets
coco Chanel was a wonder human being and I love everything she stood for. hero.
Luke please do a review of Elie Saab!
Definitely one of the collections of all time. It's giving... something.
As someone who loves Chanel this isn’t my favorite collection. I agree with a lot of the review from a fashion perspective and in comparison to other designers. However, i do think Chanel has more of a focus on their clients who want certain things and will actually purchase and wear these couture looks vs a house with a more artistic or celebrity focus. I hold them to a different standard that has more to do with a menswear wearability and high quality.
Eye drops ready, I’m ready for my eyes to burn!
I like the knickers look.
9:15, why cant that be made, its gorgeous and simple, not too much but still alot, keep up the great work luke love the vids
So, can I still comment I liked the show 😄
absolutely!!
I mean... DOES Chanel think?
Like seriously, how could such a poisoned root (Natsee, internalized misogyny, AND bougie/prep) ever branch out into a fashion house worth the egregious amounts of time and money?
The fact that it's lasted this long is proof that the terminally trendy and fashionable often have no backbone, taste, or values.
There are the Alexander McQueen's who are worthy of our time... And there are the empty headed but sweet brands... And then there's... Chanel 😒
where does the 'internalized misogyny' come from? Chanel literally changed the women dressed forever by breaking them out of corsets and other tight, form restricting, fashions. She was a very flawed human, granted (like we all aren't in some way), but she did what she did extremely well and thats worth recognizing.
@@andrewpodolio59 a valid issue that she wanted to fix, but she spent all her time defining womanhood the same way a lot of yt rich feminists have, by acting like their oppressors, and valuing the things they did.
Corsets were not the ridiculous caricature people acted like they were, they could be immensely helpful for many issues (mainly getting a large bust to cause less back pain) and were flexible and easy to move in for the vast majority of women.
Now them being a requirement was the issue and I agree that shouldn't have been the case, women should have had choices. Corsets were a social requirement and it was considered indecent not to wear them and therein lay the oppression.
But tweed?! Really? The answer to women's discomfort was taking the itchiest, heaviest, and least pleasant to wear fabric and take that back?
It's like "feminists" who think the crux of the issues we face is a lack of female CEO's!
Chanel has a lot of quotes that amply demonstrate her internalized misogyny (not hating on her for that btw, pretty impossible to totally avoid even these days) so I don't know how she could possibly be construed any other way.
@@AvaNightingale she mostly worked with lighter fabrics, like Jersey, to make her loose-fitting skirt suits. tweed is also a nice fabric (and its lined with silk or some other soft fabric on the inside, so the wearer isn't uncomfortable) and heavier varieties are good for colder weather.
idk to me she seems like she just marched to her own drum and was incredibly successful because of it. and thats why to me she seemed like an ideal feminist (for her time) and helped women find a way to dress comfortably but yet still in a chic way
@@andrewpodolio59 yeah I'd care about that if it weren't for the conclusive fact that she was a dyed in the wool fascist. Look up the the history of the fascist aesthetic of Mussolini's Italy, especially the horrible architecture, and you'll see the "inspiration" in that jumped up excuse for an atelier.
She clothes have always been about conformity, uniformity, flavorless flexing on other fash, and emulation of the worst men have to offer.
Not in any way an icon.
@@AvaNightingale you can hate her for sleeping with a Nazi but still see her as a good an important designer.
I think her philosophy of focusing well-made clothes that women would look and feel good in was extremely necessary for her time (and still is today). Humans are complicated, they're not just "icons" or "fascists", saints or devils.
No amount of historical references can justify these shit clothes. Landfill.
Please review Mrs. Harris goes to Paris!
I love that pink lace suit 😍😍
Haha you are a genius. these big brands just trawling out tired old jumblesale frump and trying to charge fortunes for the name alone.You nailed all their boring old references.
It’s so weird to see the entire collection inspired by Soviet fashion trends while there were no fashion trends in Soviet Union. The only piece of fabric you could get were low quality and any decent piece of clothing was insanely expensive and almost impossible to get. My mom and grandma would learn to sew just to be able to create a decent piece of clothes. As for me, this inspiration is so weird and inappropriate given russian aggression. The quality of collection reflects the quality of inspiration behind it.
It was honestly terrible. They need to hire someone else
Love your honesty/opinion....no sugarcoating🤣😂.
The jackets are great, as for the frumpy skirts! Who will ever wear those?
yes, a little 'all over the place'. what I REALLY want to know is what was on the bottom of your t shirt. we're in (where?).
i kinda love those jodhpurs
I don't understand that magic. The skinniest, tallest women look so bad and thick in these clothes. This isn't good design.
Keeping Margot Robbie in my thoughts who will definitely have to wear some of these when Babylon comes out
can you do a prom dress video?? i need ideas on where to buy or rent a fashion forward piece!!!
PLEASE do japanese breakfast 7 days 7 looks!!!
Oh love the IKEA bookcase !!
please cover selling sunset style and real housewives
I want to sit down a just talk about fashion with you!! I feel like we would agree and disagree in a good way. I feel like Dior and Chanel spring summer 2017 was the best from 2010-2022 there were other good ones but I feel as 2017 Dior show was iconic
Well, at least they look kinda comfy 🤔😏
I think a lot of old rich people will buy that.
Im pretty sure thatfirst gown, the black and white one is just pandering to the Korean market (one of their biggest). Its a hanbok silhouette which is popular in Korea esp with young designers, but even more expensive, which is perfect for people trying to flex. Even the use of an asian model in that specific look to me tells me they know exactly what theyre doing. Its my favourite of the collection just because its interestingly merging of the hanbok and baby-doll silhouettes in a modern way, but it doesnt fit in with the collection AT ALL 🤷
And Bryanboy DRAGGED me on Twitter for calling Chanel a mess.
I find it quite interesting most fashion critics are rarely fashionable in their own non inspiring, minimalistic, boring style. Usually haute couture is out of their limited realm.
It’s giving...... NOTHING
Kermit the Frog goes to the former Soviet Union.
I’d love to see you review RUclipsr Hannah Louise Poston’s recent video titled “Late Summer Outfit Ideas . . .”
I think you should react to song mino in mapo hipster, his fashion is really good!
I miss Karl.
have you ever considered running a podcast?
it'd be SO fun I'd love to tune in every week !!
They have a podcast its callef fashion victim tho they havent posted anything since april of this year
Stepanovoy. Not Stepanova. (Based on what was written in Cyrillic)
Having 2010s chevron flashbacks